AAFA Testimony Endorses USMCA As Strong, Stable, And Vital

WASHINGTON, D.C. — December 3, 2025 — The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) testified today in support of the U.S.-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA), endorsing the integrated supply chains and the thousands of American jobs created by USMCA.

AAFA’s Vice President of Trade and Customs Policy, Beth Hughes, testified earlier this evening before the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative (USTR).

The testimony is part of a three-day public hearing regarding the operation of the USMCA in preparation for the first Six-Year Joint Review of the USMCA which commences on July 1, 2026

“From cotton to consumer there is a tightly woven supply chain that binds together a network of workers, farmers, and employers throughout Mexico, the United States, and Canada. The USMCA enables this supply chain, setting clear and predictable ground rules and articulating a long-term incentive structure that powers jobs, investments, and regional trade. Keeping the USMCA strong and stable is vital to the health and growth of this industry supply chain and to the many communities in all three countries whose livelihoods are dependent upon this robust North American trade partnership. That is why I am here declaring our industry’s support for the UMSCA,” said Beth Hughes in testimony delivered this afternoon.

AAFA’s testimony outlined several points that were submitted as part of full written comments including calls for: preserving duty-free access, avoiding restrictions to rules of origin, and detailed corrections around short supply and cumulation.

Today’s public testimony follows a November 3 letter, signed by AAFA and other industry organization from the U.S., Mexico, and Canada to the United States Trade Representative, Jamieson Greer. That letter reads in part, “The textile, apparel, footwear, and retail industries in all three countries are deeply integrated, driving economic growth and creating millions of jobs. The USMCA has provided certainty for our industries to invest and provide consumers with affordable, quality products. To strengthen our regional supply chains, the USMCA must be preserved as a trilateral agreement and extended for another 16 years. The USMCA’s clear, predictable rules of origin have been critical for our industries, and we believe overly burdensome and complex requirements would create unnecessary barriers and increase costs for businesses and working families. Further, maintaining duty-free access for USMCA-qualifying goods and avoiding additional tariffs, including under Section 232 of the Trade Expansion Act of 1962, for such goods is essential to enhancing supply chain integration and ensuring the region remains globally competitive. We also urge the Administration to provide sufficient advance notice and clear compliance guidance prior to making any changes to the Agreement.”

Access the AAFA testimony, as prepared for delivery.

For more information and regular updates on the impacts on the U.S. apparel and footwear industry, including the very high tariffs that have been in place on our industry for 95 years, please visit AAFA’s  Fashion Tariffs 101  page: https://www.aafaglobal.org/tariffs.

Posted: December 3, 2025

Source: The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA)

U.S. Textiles 2026: Happy New Year?

By James M. Borneman, Editor In Chief

As 2025 draws to a close and the turmoil of the past year lessens with signs of a new footing taking hold, many view the 2025 blitz on the long-held framework of U.S. International trade policy as a dream come true.

A new fair-trade focus establishing America’s self-interests as a cornerstone of policy broke with the long-held commitment to an open, “free” trade policy, fraught with barriers to U.S. manufacturing competitiveness.

In a split second, an extremely contentious divide opened in the status quo of not only trade policy, but global relationships, alliances and longstanding assumptions concerning the goals of U.S. trade policy.

Even at the time of this writing, with the U.S. Supreme Court yet to rule on President Trump’s authority to enact such a tariff regime, the president’s proponents espouse other avenues the president will, could, or should pursue if the court rules against him.

Investment has been stymied by the tariff effect on imported machinery, a weak U.S. dollar and the benefit of new full depreciation tax policy not really hitting home.

Throw in a government shutdown — which affects numerous government business relationships, health insurance uncertainty and lack of consensuses on the future of the very existence of humanity — and it is a murky stew.

Will cooler heads prevail in 2026?

One would think so, but there are many challenges ahead.

If President Trump’s history as a negotiator is considered, it is a by-his-book approach to stake an extreme position, well beyond the goals of the negotiation, and then settle back to a more moderate position. It has happened over and repeatedly, but few take notice and settle quickly. It is painful to watch and well outside the nature of statesman-like behavior but, in many cases, can be extremely effective.

In 2016, similar concerns for the future took hold after his election — before he was even sworn into office. Back then, the economy really sprang to life as business and consumers felt reassured that the world wasn’t going to end. Political battles raged in President Trump’s first term within his own party and in opposition. The internal hostility seems to have moderated this time, with steep political and social hostility very much in place.

U.S. textiles has always survived, and even thrived, by doing a good job of
“reading the room.” The National Council of Textile Organization (NCTO) has had an effective run at getting the voice of the industry heard in Washington. Though not spoken of everyday, the end of the de minimis loophole for low-value commercial shipments is a major achievement and step forward towards fairer trade.

What will happen with the USMCA agreement that links the United States, Canada and Mexico into a trading block; or the CAFTA partners — some of which are not admired by the president; or even the Berry Amendment? Who knows?

That said, may 2026 be a healthy and prosperous new year!

2025 Quarterly Issue IV

KARL MAYER To Discontinue STOLL Knitting Business

Germany-based KARL MAYER will discontinue its flat knitting machine business under the STOLL brand as part of a strategic shift toward warp knitting, warp preparation and technical textiles. Manufacturing at the STOLL production site in Reutlingen, Germany, has already ceased, and production in China will cease by the end of the year. Around 280 employees are affected in Germany.

“STOLL stands for a long tradition,” said Oliver Mathews, president of the STOLL Business Unit. “That is precisely why we deeply regret that we were unable to lead the business into the future successfully. It was not possible to find an investor to continue production at the main site in Reutlingen with its 280 employees.”

KARL MAYER will continue servicing the installed base, with spare parts to be supplied from warehouses in Obertshausen, Germany and China. Software license keys will remain available.

2025 Quarterly Issue IV

Mayer & Cie. Files For Insolvency

Mayer & Cie., a Ger-many-based manufacturer of circular knitting and braiding machines, has filed for insolvency under self-administration. The company, which employs about 280 people, cited a significant decline in global demand. Wage and salary payments are secured for three months through insolvency benefits.

Mayer & Cie. reported that geopolitical tensions, including the U.S.-China trade conflict and the war in Ukraine, have discouraged investment, while high inflation in Turkey and price pressure from subsidized Chinese competitors contributed to a nearly 50-percent drop in sales last year.

In the self-administration process, management will oversee restructuring with support from specialist Attorney Martin Mucha of Grub Brugger, who joins as general representative.

“On Thursday, together with the management, I informed the workforce about the insolvency application,”Mucha said. “At the same time, the necessary steps were taken to maintain business operations. We intend to continue business operations as usual and will concentrate with all our commitment on maintaining the company’s core competencies.”

2025 Quarterly Issue IV

Weaving Manufacturer Itema Breaks Ground On New Site

Italy-based Itema recently began construction on a new manufacturing site in Ponte Nossa, Italy. The company acquired the unused site in 2022 that previously housed Cotonificio Cantoni, and is moving forward with a multi-step redevelopment plan intended to modernize operations and expand its presence in the Seriana Valley. Step one, now under-way and scheduled for completion in 2027, includes a world-class production hub to support Itema’s weaving machinery production.The project later will include development plans for Lamiflex S.p.A.

“In 2022 we took the decision to begin a journey that would lead Itema Group to have a position adapted to the turbulent changes taking place and at the same time strengthen our brand, which is recognized throughout the textile world as an ambassador of ‘Made in Italy’,” said Ugo Ghilardi, Itema Group CEO.“One step of this journey involves both process and production, and product assets, which find a home in this new manufacturing site in Ponte Nossa.”

2025 Quarterly Issue IV

Champion Thread Announces NC State Scholarship

Champion Thread Co. (CTC), Gastonia, N.C., has established the Poovey Family Scholarship in honor of its late founder, Robert “Bob”Lee Poovey III. The need-based undergraduate scholarship will support students pursuing degrees at the Wilson College of Textiles at NC State, Raleigh, N.C. The Poovey family has multiple NC State alumni across three generations, and the scholarship is funded through a permanent endowment created during the Wilson College’s 125th anniversary year.

CTC CEO Matt Poovey said: “This scholarship is more than a recognition — it’s a reflection of my father’s lifelong devotion to the textile industry and his unwavering pride in the Wolfpack. He believed deeply in the transformative power of education, excellence, and service. His passion for textiles was matched by a quiet generosity — he had a gift for recognizing when someone just needed a helping hand and he offered it freely, without fanfare. … This scholarship carries that spirit forward, empowering future students to pursue their goals with courage, diligence, and the values that shaped his life and legacy.”

Bob Poovey worked in textiles for more than 50 years and founded CTC in 1979.

2025 Quarterly Issue IV

Milliken & Company Buys Highland Industries Assets

Spartanburg, S.C.-based Milliken & Company has acquired the assets of Highland Industries Inc. in Cheraw, S.C., in a move that bolsters Milliken’s technical textiles capabilities and strengthens its U.S. operations. Milliken said the Highland site will serve as a regional hub for technical textile weaving and knitting.

“We remain committed to the U.S. textile industry and grounded in our belief that precision manufacturing of innovative, high-performance materials is crucial for industrial resilience,” said Halsey Cook, president and CEO of Milliken.

“In addition to reinforcing current operations, acquiring Highland adds new offerings to the technical textiles portfolio,” said Allen Jacoby, executive vice president, and president of Milliken’s technical textiles business. “Highland provides important assets to help us better serve our customers and opens the door to new growth opportunities.”

In other Milliken news, the company was recognized with a 2025 EcoVadis Gold Rating for the fourth consecutive year. The award puts Milliken in the top 5 percent of the more than 150,000 global organizations that are considered for the recognition each year.

“This recognition reflects the dedication of our teams around the world and our continued focus on fostering transparency and driving innovation across our businesses,” Cook noted.

2025 Quarterly Issue IV 

Cone Denim Sells Majority Stake To Artistic Milliners

Pakistan-based Artistic Milliners has acquired a majority stake in Cone Denim from Elevate Textiles, Greensboro, N.C. The resulting multinational company will operate under the Cone Denim name, and Artistic Milliners’ Pakistan operations will continue independently. The transaction is expected to close in early 2026.The combined entity will include Cone Denim’s mills in Mexico and China, as well as Artistic Milliners’ garment facility in Parras, Mexico, and its Star Fades International laundry and development center in Los Angeles. Cone will operate as a standalone portfolio company led by President Steve Maggard.

“We are committed to bringing the full breadth of our expertise to help unlock Cone’s competitive strengths,” said Artistic Milliners’ Murtaza Ahmed and Omer Ahmed in a joint statement.“Cone Denim will preserve its unique identity while continuing to drive its own business strategy. Our goal is to collaborate closely with the Cone Denim team, building on the legacy and achievements of more than 130 years.”

2025 Quarterly Issue IV

Texworld USA Offers New Features, Unified Innovation Hub

Texworld NYC taps Peclers Paris for trend direction while introducing fresh programming, and a reimagined Innovation Hub for sourcing professionals and designers.

TW Special Report

January 20-22, 2026, the textile and garment industry will gather in New York City at the Javits Center for Texworld NYC. The biennial trade event will collocate with Apparel Sourcing NYC and Printsource for the Winter 2026 Edition to create a hub for fabric sourcing and solutions for the textile and garment industry.

Texworld, organized by Atlanta-based Messe Frankfurt Inc., is a showcase of fabrics in on-trend color palettes comprising basics up to those containing unique fiber blends and innovative structures.

Apparel Sourcing NYC is a joint venture between Messe Frankfurt and China-based Sub-Council of Textile Industry, China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT-Tex). Exhibitors specialize in finished apparel, contract manufacturing and private label development. Apparel and accessories will be displayed including ready-to-wear collections for men, women and children.

Printsource highlights hundreds of design collections from surface designers and textile design studios all over the world. Applications include apparel, bed and bath, kitchen and tabletop, wall coverings and window fashions, among other applications.

New Year Brings New Features

Organizers are combining the Next-Gen Materials, Technology Lab and Solutions Studio into a single destination — the Innovation Hub. Within the hub, visitors can learn about biobased, circular and low impact textiles, digital tools and artificial intelligence systems including blockchain and 3D design, as well as services offering transparency and accountability options for the global supply chain.

As always, trend forecasts form the heart of Texworld NYC. This edition’s Texworld Trend Showcase is curated by trend partner Peclers Paris, a creative consultancy and trend agency with more than five decades of experience. According to organizers, the showcase will introduce “the season’s key color stories, material innovations and creative directions — translating future trends into tangible inspiration for designers and sourcing professionals alike.”

“We believe every story in fashion begins with the fabric,” noted Yvonne de Bruyn, Trend & Type director for Consultancies, Peclers Paris. “It is the foundation of creativity, the vessel of emotion, and the touchpoint of connection. Fabric shapes not only garments, but also the narratives they carry and the feelings they evoke. That is why we are proud to partner with Texworld New York, bringing our trend-driven vision to the fashion capital of the United States.”

Workshop Opportunity, Education Programs

The Chicago Pattern Maker Founder and President Xochil Herrera Scheer will host a new hands-on tech pack workshop for attendees. “Your Fashion Design Blueprint” aims to demystify the tech pack, which is an essential blueprint for bringing garments to life. Seats are limited and tickets can be purchased during online registration.

Other returning event features include the Exhibitor Pitch stage presented by Texpertise, which will present new products and innovations; Textile Talks where experts will discuss a variety of issues pertinent to the fashion and textile industries; and the Deadstock Sourcing area that will provide buyers access to surplus materials as sustainable sourcing alternatives.

The shows are open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Tuesday and Wednesday, January 20-21; and from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Thursday, January 22.


For more information about the shows and to register, visit texworld-usa. us.messefrankfurt.com and printsource newyork.com.


2025 Quarterly Issue IV

RISE®2025: Spotlight On What’s Possible In Engineered Fabrics

RISE® 2025 — which honored Keel Labs with the RISE Innovation Award (far right) for its Kelsun® seaweed-based fiber — allowed for networking and learning while spotlighting the technologies that are redefining what’s possible in engineered fabrics.

The 15th annual RISE was designed to explore collaboration and creativity for a more sustainable future in the nonwovens and engineered fabrics industry.

TW Special Report

The Cary, N.C.-based Association of the Nonwoven & Fabrics Industry (INDA) recently hosted its 15th RISE® conference, co-hosted by The Nonwovens Institute (NWI). The two-day RISE —Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics — event focused on emerging technologies and ideas with the aim of connecting innovations with real-world applications for professionals in the nonwoven/engineered fabrics industry. The event this year was held at the McKimmon Center on the NC State campus in Raleigh, N.C.

Topics focused on sustainability and innovation. Carbon-smart materials and fiber science featured heavily on the agenda, and green chemistry and nonwoven processing technologies also were included in the presentations. INDA’s Director of Government Relations, Wes Fisher, concluded the conference with his presentation on “Nonwovens in a Shifting Landscape: Navigating Tariff and Policy Risks in a Second Trump Administration.”
RISE Innovation Award

Each year, INDA searches for commercializable technical products and technologies to honor with the RISE Innovation Award. The top three nominees for the award in 2025 — EsterCycle LLC, Rockline Industries and Keel Labs — presented their technologies at the end of the first day of conference proceedings, and then RISE attendees voted for their favorite innovation. Once those results were tallied with votes cast by INDA’s Technical Advisory Board and the affiliated Conference Committee, Keel Labs, Morrisville, N.C., was announced as the winner of the 2025 RISE Innovation Award for its Kelsun® fiber. The seaweed-based fiber is a sustainable, biodegradable alternative to petroleum-based fibers. Kelsun also is soft, inherently flame resistant and antimicrobial.

Associated Activities

The day before the conference, those interested in golf participated in a charity golf tournament at the Lonnie Poole Golf Course on the NC State campus. Money raised by the tournament supports graduate students with travel costs to attend INDA events.

During the conference, attendees had the opportunity to learn about research taking place at a variety of universities via the graduate research posters that were on display. It’s a great opportunity for the students to share their work with industry experts and potential investors. Tabletop exhibits from participating companies also were positioned around the posters in the exhibit area offering additional learning opportunities.

At the close of the conference, attendees were given the chance to tour NWI. This “Open Innovation” resource on the Centennial Campus of NC State comprises a consortium of stakeholders spanning the breadth of the nonwovens value chain. The collaboration between academia, industry and government works to develop nonwoven solutions and is the first accredited academic program for engineered fabrics. NWI houses more than $65 million in pilot lines and analytical labs for trials and development work.

“RISE continues to spotlight the technologies that are redefining what’s possible in engineered fabrics,” said Dr. Matt O’Sickey, INDA’s director of Education & Technical Affairs. “From renewable carbon and green chemistry to next-generation fibers and recycling innovations, this year’s conference showcased the kind of collaboration and creativity that will shape a more sustainable future for our industry.”

INDA has announced the date for RISE 2026, which will return to the McKimmon Center August 25-26, 2026.

2025 Quarterly Issue IV

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