Below: Teammates hoisted Jackson Young in the air to celebrate his hole-in-one. Left: The winning golfing team from Navis TubeTex comprised of Todd Dickson, Will Motchar, Mark West and Dan Outlaw.
SYFA’s spring conference was augmented with the association’s inaugural fundraising golf tournament.
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The Synthetic Yarn and Fabric Association (SYFA) held its 2023 spring conference at the Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel, Charlotte, N.C. The theme for the event was “Energize, Optimize and Sustain.”
The speaker lineup featured the following presenters and topics:
Jenna Shaw & Brad Porter, Deloitte— “Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) Landscape”;
Trevor Waycott, Stren-Flex, Robert “Bob” Jasany, WSTDA, and Bob Hancuff, Burlan Manufacturing LLC — “An Introduction to the Web Sling & Tie Down Association (WSTDA)”;
Dr. Kate Riley, Textile Exchange— “Synthetics at Textile Exchange: A Deep Dive Into Strategy and Approach to Meet Climate + Targets”;
Bryce Krulic, Staco Energy Products — “Power Quality and Its Effects on Energy and Equipment”;
Dr. Roger Tutterow, Kennesaw State University — “Economic Update”;
Srinivasan “Shankar” Prabhushankar, Indorama — “The Role of Synthetic Yarn & Fabric for a Sustainable World”;
Matt Bridges, Goulston Technologies — “Novel Additives Developed to Improve the Environmental Footprint of Fabric Laundering”; and
Sean Bernhardt, Avient — “Sustainability at Avient: Material Science For a Better Tomorrow.”
The lineup of speakers covered topics outside of the typical textile industry subject matter that attendees have come to expect. The broader topics of power quality and ESG were equally enjoyed by SYFA members at the meeting. “It was encouraging to see the interaction and hear the positive feedback from several attendees related to the greater breadth of content at the spring conference,” said Dan Sistrunk, SYFA immediate past president. “Expanding the speaker slate to include ‘non-traditional’ topics such as ESG and energy management seemed to really resonate and provide additional value to the membership.”
Conference sponsors included Diamond Sponsor Premier Fibers Inc.; Gold Sponsor Jomar Softcorp International Inc.; Silver Sponsors Goulston Technologies and Pulcra Chemicals LLC; Bronze Sponsors Avient, Unifi Inc. and DuBose Strapping & Packaging; and Patron Measured Solutions.
Ahead of the event, SYFA organized an inaugural golf tournament at the Rocky River Golf Course in Concord, N.C. Participants enjoyed a round of golf in a “Captain’s Choice” format with individual prizes for longest drives and closest to the pin on designated holes, as well as the lowest overall team score. A good time was had by all. The winning team was comprised of Will Motchar, Todd Dickson, Mark West and Dan Outlaw with Lexington, N.C.-based Navis TubeTex. Jackson Young, management trainee-Process Improvement, at Unifi Inc., also beat the 12,500 to 1 odds with his closest to the pin winning shot — a hole-in-one!
Proceeds from the tournament support a scholarship fund for students enrolled at Gaston College in the new Textile Technology program. This program is designed to educate and train students in textile manufacturing and other areas related to textiles to further strengthen the industry.
“The SYFA Spring Conference demonstrated, once again, the industry’s enthusiasm for gathering to net-work and hear about advancements in product innovation, sustainability and the economy,” said Hardy Sullivan, SYFA president. “Five of the eight presentations covered topics related to sustainability.
“But it wasn’t all work and no play,” Sullivan continued. “The inaugural golf tournament was a resounding success, capped off with a hole-in-one! Everyone is so busy with work. This was a rare opportunity to enjoy time with friends while networking and supporting a good cause. I’m happy to report we exceeded our goal to raise funds to support an annual scholarship for Gaston College’s associates programs in textiles. Given its success, I expect the golf tournament will become a fixture every spring.”
The fall SYFA meeting is scheduled for October 26-27, 2023. Visit the association’s website, thesyfa.org, for more information as the date draws closer.
Top row (left to right): Matt Bridges, Goulston Technologies; Dr. Roger Tutterow, Kennesaw State University; and Srinivasan “Shankar” Prabhushankar, Indorama Middle row (left to right): Sean Bernhardt, Avient; Hardy Sullivan, SYFA president; and Robert “Bob” Jasany (left), Web Sling & Tie Down Association, Bob Hancuff (center), Burlan Manufacturing LLC, and Trevor Waycott, Stren-Flex Bottom row (left to right): Dr. Kate Riley, Textile Exchange; Brad Porter and Jenna Shaw, Deloitte; and Bryce Krulic, Staco Energy Products
Itema America President Scott Malcolm welcomed guests to the company’s recent open house.
Itema America recently held an open house to share information about its expanded technical weaving capabilities.
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Itema America Inc., a wholly owned subsidiary of Italy-based Itema S.p.A., recently hosted an open house at its Spartanburg, S.C., facility. The U.S.-based company was established in 2005 after Itema acquired and combined the Somet, Vamatex and Sulzer weaving machine brands. Today, the company is a full-service location serving North America with weaving machine sales, spare parts, technical service, as well as an electrical and mechanical repair shop.
It was the first time since 2007 that Itema America hosted such an open house event. In recent years, the parent company expanded its offerings with the purchase of Panter, a small, Italy-based custom weaving machine manufacturing that specializes in machines for technical weaving. “With the exodus of apparel and home furnishing plants in North America over the past 25 years, the market that remains is profitable and focused on technical applications,” said Itema America President Scott Malcolm. “With that said, we felt it was imperative to get the word out about the company’s expanded capabilities by holding an open house.”
More than 100 people attended the event to hear about the company’s capabilities. The event invitation list comprised prospective customers as well as existing Itema customers and new players in the technical textiles market. “We wanted the entire textile market in North America to know of our expanded capabilities and expertise in technical applications,” Malcolm noted.
Malcolm, along with Kemp Smith, after sales service manager; Doug Merritt, sales account manager; and Ugo Ghilardi, CEO of the Italy-based parent company, all gave presentations during the event welcoming guests and explaining the company’s offerings.
Itema wanted to emphasize its biggest strength, which is its flexibility. The company now offers three of the four insertion technologies for weaving — air jet, rapier and projectile. With the Panter purchase and formation of the ItemaTech division, the company reports it now offers the largest and most versatile machine portfolio of all OEM weaving machine companies. “Whatever the fiber, whatever the fabric and whatever the future holds, Itema has a weaving solution,” Malcolm emphasized.
With regards to the U.S. market, Itematech offers technologies for weaving carbon fiber and tape, carpet backing, heavy filter fabrics, automotive components, and parachute fabrics, among other products.
Visitors got to experience live demonstrations of some of Itematech’s latest innovations including:
The UNIRAP rapier machine, weaving flat carbon tape for aerospace applications;
The A9500, a 430-centimeter (cm)-wide air-jet weaving machine with proprietary iLeno System, shown weaving polypropylene for agrotextiles;
The R9500 Dobby 190-cm-wide rapier weaving machine weaving aramid yarns for protective fabrics; and
The Hercules Dobby, 240-cm-wide positive rapier weaving machine, which was shown running heavy canvas fabric for the bag industry during the open house.
The company expects the positive market trend to technical textiles will continue for the foreseeable future and will continue to cater to this demanding segment of the weaving market. Itema notes thanks to the unique expertise and competence poured into Itematech, technical weavers should consider the company an excellent partner that can meet and exceed their needs when it comes to weaving a full range of technical fabrics for a variety of applications.
The Itema showroom is always open. Anyone interested in learning more about Itema’s expanded technical weaving capabilities can reach out to make an appointment. Itema reports there will be more announcements to come. Stay tuned!
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A selection of images from the open house showing attendees networking with Itema employees as they learn more about Itema America’s expertise in technical textiles weaving and the available technologies.
To learn more about Itema America’s technical weaving solutions or to make an appointment to visit the showroom, con-tact Scott Malcolm, 864-316-4591, scott. malcolm@itemagroup.com; Doug Merritt, 704-813-7279, doug.merritt@itema-americas.com; or Kemp Smith, 864-494-2889, kemp.smith@itema-americas.com.
Itema will showcase its latest innovations at the upcoming ITMA 2023 in Hall 6, Booth B105.
Outgoing NCTO Chairman David Poston outlined key industry facts and economic data in his “State of the U.S. Textile Industry” address during NCTO’s 19th annual meeting.
By David Poston
Let me begin by saying what an honor and privilege it has been serving as chairman of the Washington-based National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO).
The business climate in 2022 was defined by a multitude of global and domestic challenges impacting our industry’s overall performance.
The U.S. textile and apparel industry faced challenging macroeconomic conditions throughout the year.
As we all witnessed, the headwinds from global supply chain disruptions, inflation at home, rising material costs and rising interest rates were strong. Fluctuating consumer demand started out strong in the first half but flattened by the second half of the year as inflationary pressures flipped the script from an economy fueled by excess demand and inadequate supply to one of too much supply and not enough demand.
Despite these challenges, there also were many positive trends that helped offset some of those pressures, including softening inflation towards the latter half of the year, coupled with a surge in onshoring and nearshoring that led to historic investments, commitments and expansion in the U.S. and the Western Hemisphere.
Overall, our industry remained resilient with strong performances in some key areas in 2022. We remain cautiously optimistic that we will see growth this year, though inflationary pressures and rising costs are expected to persist.
NCTO has been highly engaged in working with the Biden administration and our allies in Congress to achieve key policy priorities, and we succeeded on many fronts in 2022.
I would like to sincerely thank our staff, led by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas, as well as our industry leadership for successfully navigating through challenging economic times and polarization in Congress, while partnering with the administration and key congressional offices to secure a number of critical achievements last year.
NCTO’s effective advocacy efforts resulted in a long list of accomplishments in 2022, including enhancing government procurement of U.S. textile-based products, intensifying pressure to crack down on unprecedented abuse of our de minimis waiver system, safeguarding the integrity of our free trade agreements, and maintaining a strong position on China trade enforcement, including tariffs on finished textile and apparel.
Last month, many of you participated in a number of Zoom calls with House and Senate leadership on maintaining the integrity of the yarn forward rule of origin in the Dominican Republic Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR) and advancing a proactive agenda to drive investment and expand regional co-production in the CAFTA-DR region.
Your participation in these discussions matter and are critical to pushing our issues collectively.
I would like to sincerely thank the entire NCTO staff for this enormous effort and to all the NCTO members who participated in these critical discussions.
Before laying out NCTO’s policy wins in 2022, I want to quickly recap how the industry fared last year.
By The Numbers
We continued to expand our capital investments, exports and value of shipments in 2022.
Many metrics for our industry were strong last year, as business continued to increase exports and investments.
In 2022, the value of U.S. man-made fiber, textile and apparel shipments totaled an estimated $65.8 billion, compared with $64.04 billion in shipments in 2021.1
Here are two additional key industry facts:
U.S. exports were also up compared to 2021. Exports of fibers, textiles and apparel were $34 billion in 2022 compared with $28.4 billion in 2021.2
Capital expenditures have remained strong. Investment in yarn, fabric, apparel and sewn product manufacturing in 2021 —the latest figure that is available —hit $2.27 billion in 2021 compared with $1.85 billion in 2020.
Onshoring and nearshoring trends strengthened Made in USA production as you can see from these metrics, and policies in Washington aimed at expanding Berry and Buy American rules are contributing to overall growth in American-made products for the military, PPE and federal agencies.
Once again, the Western Hemisphere supply chain remained a key driver behind the industry’s growth and remains a vital economic engine for the textile and apparel sectors.
We have $39.8 billion in annual two-way trade with the Western Hemisphere, representing an 18.4-percent increase over the past five years, which supports 2 million direct jobs in the entire supply chain.
Trade flows remained positive and on a growth track, despite the headwinds from three years of sourcing disruptions due to the pandemic.
U.S. textile and apparel exports to the Western Hemisphere rose 14.9 percent to reach $18 billion in 2022, compared with five years ago in 2017. Similarly apparel and textile imports to the United States from the Western Hemisphere continue to rise. These imports from the entire region to the United States grew by 21.4 percent to hit $21.8 billion over the same time period.
The bottom line is the fundamentals for the U.S. textile industry are sound, though headwinds this year will weigh heavily on business decisions. Our industry’s resilience in the face of a once-in-a-generation pandemic with COVID-19 gives me confidence it will weather the perfect storm of inflation, supply chain disruptions and rising costs.
Policy Issues
NCTO was highly engaged in policy debates in Washington last year, advocating on every aspect of critical trade and economic issues impacting our industry’s performance and growth.
I would like to highlight a few accomplishments NCTO staff achieved during the year.
CAFTA-DR
NCTO engaged directly with the administration and congress to underscore the importance of strong trade rules to the economic stability of Central America and the need for increased private sector investment in regional manufacturing. NCTO staff also worked to counter a well-funded effort by certain importers designed to undermine the yarn forward rule of origin in the CAFTA-DR agreement to allow third-party textile inputs from Asia to displace U.S. and Central American-made textile inputs.
Further, NCTO continues to work with various elements of the federal government, including the Vice President’s office, USTR, the State Department, and the National Security Council to identify and implement solutions that will increase regional co-production and expand export opportunities for U.S. textiles.
Thanks to these efforts, Administration’s Call to Action for new investment, and the strength of CAFTA-DR, nearly $2 billion of new textile and apparel investments were made in the United States and Central America region.
Buy American Reform
NCTO partnered with congressional allies in 2022 to press designated federal departments for quick adoption of the Make PPE in America — legislation that applies Berry Amendment rules to nearly all personal protective equipment purchased by the federal government and ensures minimum two-year federal PPE contracts. This is something NCTO is continuing to lead an all-out push for agencies to adopt these critical standards.
Additionally, NCTO worked with our allies at the Warrior Protection and Readiness Coalition (WPRC) and several other industry associations and labor unions to help secure passage of the Homeland Procurement Reform (HOPR) Act, as part of the FY 2023 National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA). The HOPR Act encourages increased domestic sourcing and aims to support U.S. small businesses by improving the ability of the Department of Homeland Security (DHS) to purchase high-quality, American-made uniforms and PPE for frontline personnel. NCTO will be working in concert with partner organizations to help ensure this new law is enacted swiftly.
There are numerous other issues requiring NCTO’s focus and resources, such as amplifying support for the Section 301 case against China’s intellectual property abuses, promoting tariffs on finished products, the need to pass a new Miscellaneous Tariff bill with immediate and full retroactivity, and continued engagement with the Hill on enacting a provision that would effectively close the de minimis loophole for Chinese imports.
Due to time constraints, I cannot go into all of these important issues. But please know that without exception, NCTO is highly engaged on every policy matter that affects the U.S. textile industry with the intent of shaping policy determinations in a manner that directly benefits U.S. textile investment, production and workforce.
Industry leadership and involvement is of paramount importance. From contributions to NCTO’s Textile PAC to arranging congressional visits to facilities, the industry can make a difference and help raise the level of awareness about its importance to the overall U.S. economy and workforce, and to the local and state economies it supports.
Conclusion
The business environment for the year ahead looks challenging but based on the growth we are seeing in capital expenditures, output, exports and investments in the Western Hemisphere partners, I remain cautiously optimistic.
We will closely monitor emerging issues this year and continue to engage with Congress and the administration on a whole host of policy issues impacting our industry. Working in conjunction with our Western Hemisphere trading partners, we believe we can capitalize on the onshoring and nearshoring trends that we are seeing and strengthen our co-production chain, investment and employment.
That concludes my formal remarks.
On a personal note, I have been honored to serve as chairman of a highly effective organization and dedicated staff, which tirelessly advocates on policies impacting the day-to-day operations of our organizations and this economically vital industry.
I truly am optimistic about the innovative strength of the industry and its resilience to economic challenges. With the support of this effective trade and lobbying organization in Washington, we can overcome unforeseen challenges and continue to cement our position as an integral sector to the U.S. economy and the Western Hemisphere.
References: 1 Bureau of Economic Analysis 2 U.S. Department of Commerce data for Export Group 0: Textiles and Apparel.
Editor’s Notes: David Poston is president of Palmetto Synthetics, Kingstree, S.C. He served as NCTO chairman for FY 2022. At the recent NCTO meeting in Washington, Norman Chapman, president of Inman Mills, succeeded Poston as NCTO chairman for FY 2023.
The North American Industry Classification System (NAICS) is the standard used by Federal statistical agencies in classifying business establishments for the purpose of collecting, analyzing, and publishing statistical data related to the U.S. business economy. NAICS Subsector 313 covers Textile Mills, sub-sector 314 covers Textile Product Mills and subsector 315 covers Apparel.
Pailung reports its High Pile fabric featured in its latest cozy collection is suitable for extra durable winter wear.
Recyclable and low cost, Pailung’s latest fabric technology uses knitting instead bonding techniques to produce adhesive-free high pile fabric for clothing, upholstery and industrial end-uses.
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Taiwan-based Pailung’s latest high pile fabric collection, the “Cozy Collection,” includes high-density pile, two-sided high-pile and three-layer high pile. These fabrics are ideal for outdoor garments, winter wear, and coats and gloves.
The knitted high pile fabrics feature a high-density structure and double-sided application, with different colors and fiber lengths. They’re environmentally friendly, lightweight, warm, windproof, and offer the wearer a full range of movement.
Ethical, vegan winter wear has relied heavily on adhesives. Ironically, garments that are labeled as ethical or vegan may not actually be recyclable, and they could finish up in a landfill, incinerator, or ocean.
Thanks to new advances in knitting machinery, Pailung has developed a plush alternative to adhesive technologies that is both ethical and sustainable. Pile fabrics can be manufactured economically, without sacrificing the premium quality that world-class fashion and apparel brands expect.
Durable And Recyclable
High pile fabrics usually are bonded using an adhesive to seal the layers together. But this method creates a recycling problem. In order to recycle a high pile fabric, the layers first need to be separated from one another, and adhesives make separation difficult.
Pailung presents a solution whereby the layers are knitted together, eliminating adhesives from the production process. Specific combinations of yarn can be selected for recyclability, and recycled yarns can also be utilized. Provided that each layer is itself recyclable, the entire high pile fabric made using Pailung’s technology can be recycled.
Another added benefit is durability. Because Pailung’s high pile fabric is knit, not bonded, the resulting fabric is incredibly durable. With repeated washing cycles, adhesives may deteriorate, but knitted fabrics retain their strength. The surface maintains a high level of anti-pilling, while the bottom layer resists snagging and shedding.
Low Production Cost
The process of knitting Pailung’s three-layer high pile fabric is much less labor-intensive than traditional processes, which require at least one lamination step followed by two further knitting steps. Instead, Pailung’s high pile fabric requires just the knit-ting steps. Not only does it save manpower, it also saves time and reduces power consumption.
At the same time, the process does not limit flexibility in terms of design or manufacturing. The length of fibers on both sides of the fabric can be directly controlled on the knitting machine, creating many possibilities for designers. Furthermore, when printing patterns on one side, the patterns will not bleed through to the other side. In turn, controlling fiber length also minimizes the subsequent shearing process for manufacturers.
Comparison With Sliver Knit Fabric
Pailung’s high pile can achieve a similar density to sliver knit fabrics. Similarly, with Pailung’s high pile fabric technology, sliver knit fabrics are produced using circular knitting machines. The main difference between the fabrics comes from the production process.
In sliver knitting, the face fibers that imitate fur are attached to the fabric by means of a knitting sliver and base yarn. Sliver knit fabrics have longer and denser piles on the fabric surface than most pile jerseys, but the sliver knit fibers are difficult to collect, and the final fabric is usually heavier than Pailung’s high pile.
Editor’s Note: Pailung will debut its Cozy Collection of high pile fabrics at ITMA 2023 in Milan.
Nouvelles Fibres Textiles’ circular and sustainable ecosystem with ANDRITZ technological solutions
The textile industry’s interest in all things sustainability has grown through the years from simple conservation initiatives into a comprehensive sustainable approach to product and manufacturing.
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Over the past handful of years, the textile industry has developed a growing interest in sustainability in virtually all facets of textile manufacturing and product lifecycles. Recent headlines have featured many textile sustainability developments from a broad range of companies.
A snapshot of recent developments includes Israel-based Sonovia’s partnership with Italy-based denim developer PureDenim to install indigo yarn dyeing technology into France-based Kering’s denim production lines; a partner-ship between Tokyo-based Asahi Kasei and Microwave Chemical, Japan, to commercialize a chemical recycling process for nylon 6,6; a line of sustainable carpet backing products from Germany-based Freudenberg Performance Materials; and a new foreign material removal technology to eliminate polyurethane elastomer fiber from discarded polyester apparel developed by Tokyo-based Teijin Frontier Co. Ltd.
In addition, Austria-based ANDRITZ has entered a partnership with Pellenc ST and Nouvelles Fibres Textiles to set up an industrial-scale automatic textile sorting line in France combining automated sorting and recycling technology; while Austria-based Lenzing Group has launched its Fiber Recycling Initiative by TENCEL™ with valued mill partners. Lastly, Spain-based Jeanologia has reduced water consumption from fabric to finished garment with its eco-efficient technologies.
These and many more companies are addressing key challenges faced by the global textile industry, including water consumption, chemical waste, energy expenditure and the environmental impact of textile production. The following narrative explores each of these company’s contributions to textile sustainability.
Indigo Yarn Dyeing
Sonovia, in collaboration with PureDenim, has partnered with luxury group Kering to implement Sonovia’s groundbreaking indigo yarn dyeing technology into its denim production lines. Kering aims to reduce its absolute greenhouse gas emissions by 40 percent. According to the company, traditional indigo yarn dyeing processes are known for heavy water usage, consuming an average of 60,000 liters per process, and reliance on chemicals like hydrosulfite. Sonovia’s D(y)ENIM indigo yarn dyeing ultrasound technology revolutionizes the process by significantly reducing water usage by up to 85 percent and eliminating hydrosulfite completely.
This partnership with Kering represents a transformative shift in the fashion world by addressing water consumption, chemical waste, and energy expenditure in denim manufacturing.
“Sonovia’s technology is the ultimate step towards near-zero-impact indigo dyeing,” said Gigi Caccia, CEO and owner of PureDenim. “Having forward-looking partners like Sonovia and Kering gives us courage to take on challenges that until yesterday seemed unattainable.”
Asahi Kasei is working with Microwave Chemical to commercialize a process for recycling nylon 6,6 using microwave technology.
Microwaves For Depolymerization
Asahi Kasei and Microwave Chemical have launched a joint demonstration project with the aim of commercializing a chemical recycling process for nylon 6,6, also known as polyamide 66 (PA66), using microwave technology.
PA66 is widely used in automotive and electronic products, and its demand is expected to increase globally. The conventional manufacturing process for PA66 relies on fossil fuel-derived intermediates, contributing to greenhouse gas emissions.
Asahi Kasei and Microwave Chemical’s collaboration focuses on developing a manufacturing process for PA66 that reduces greenhouse gas emissions compared to traditional methods.
Microwave Chemical’s PlaWave™ technology platform for decomposing plastic using microwaves can depolymerize PA66 and obtain monomers like hexamethylenediamine and adipic acid for the production of new PA66. The project aims to achieve resource circulation and reduce greenhouse gas emissions by leveraging microwave technology and exploring the use of renewable energy.
Colback ECO is a sustainable carpet backing product offered by Freudenberg Performance Materials.
Flooring: Reduced Environmental Impact
Freudenberg Performance Materials has introduced its next-generation sustainable carpet backing products— Colback ECO and Lutradur ECO— for the flooring industry. The flooring industry is faced with the challenge of reducing the environmental impact of its products, and Freudenberg is actively supporting its customers in this endeavor.
“Like many other industries, the flooring industry faces challenges to reduce the environmental impact of their products,” said Michaela Reuter, senior vice president and general manager, Regional Business Unit Carpet, Filtration & Shoes EMEA at Freudenberg. “Carpet manufacturers approach this challenge in multiple ways: reducing carbon foot-print, increasing recycled content, and improving recyclability are key trends. As a long-term partner, we work closely with our customers to support their journey.”
Freudenberg’s R&D teams have developed a proprietary yarn produc-tion technology that enables them to create extremely thin filaments, reducing the raw material required for carpet backings. This not only lowers the carbon footprint but also improves the recyclability of the car-pet at the end of its life cycle.
The ECO product range initially targets carpet tiles and is produced in Europe. Freudenberg plans to expand the ECO portfolio with high-recycled-content backings and other sustainable approaches, supporting the flooring industry’s transition to a circular economy.
Teijin Frontier has developed a new foreign material removal technology to eliminate polyurethane (PU) elastomer fiber from discarded polyester apparel.
Guided By THINK ECO®
Teijin Frontier has developed a new foreign material removal technology to eliminate polyurethane (PU) elastomer fiber from discarded polyester apparel. This technology enhances the quality of recycled polyester fiber derived from clothing containing PU elastomer fiber. Teijin Frontier’s processing agent dissolves the PU elastomer fiber and removes foreign materials such as dyes, eliminating the need for a separate decolorization process.
The company’s efforts align with its THINK ECO environmental strategy, aiming to achieve ambitious sustainability goals. Teijin Frontier aims to establish a comprehensive ecosystem for polyester fiber, encompassing apparel collection, sorting, and recycling.
By expanding the scope of fiber-to-fiber recycling, Teijin Frontier contributes to a zero-waste society and promotes the value of environmentally responsible with its eco-efficient technologies.
Automated Sorting And Recycling
ANDRITZ, in collaboration with Pellenc ST and Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, is establishing an industrial-scale automatic textile sorting line in France. This groundbreaking project combines automated sorting and recycling technologies to process post-consumer textile waste. The line will produce recycled fibers tailored for the spinning, nonwoven, and composite industries.
Starting operations in mid-2023, it will serve as a production line for Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, an R&D line for the partners, and a test and demonstration center for customers.
Eric Boël, president, Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, commented: “We are very proud to announce the launch of the Nouvelles Fibres Textiles partnership. Several years of R&D involving key players from both textile and household waste management industries made this possible. We all shared our knowledge and expertise to promote on-the-ground circularity for textiles by full integration of the value chain.”
This partnership aims to achieve industrial-grade material production and large-scale post-consumer textile sorting while promoting traceability, mitigating environmental impacts, reducing the carbon footprint, and creating job opportunities.
Mechanically recycled TENCEL™ lyocell fiber produced by Spain-based Santaderina is suitable for use in denim fiber production.
Lenzing Group has launched the Fiber Recycling Initiative by TENCEL™. Collaborating with mill partners such as Artistic Milliners, Canatiba, and Textil Santanderina, Lenzing Group is driving circularity in the textile industry. The initiative focuses on the production of denim fabrics derived from mechanically recycled Tencel lyocell fibers.
By utilizing preconsumer lyocell waste, Lenzing Group and its partners are redefining sustainability in the denim industry. The fabrics produced retain the core features of Tencel lyocell fibers, including breathability, smooth drape, and long-lasting comfort. With a growing demand for sustainable and circular products, this initiative addresses the call for more environmentally friendly options while ensuring traceability and transparency throughout the supply chain.
Jeanologia’s G2 Atmos is an ozone technology for garment finishing that greatly reduces chemical and water use in sustainable denim production processes.
Water-Saving Innovations
Jeanologia is focused on revolutionizing denim production by creating water-saving innovations. Water consumption in the textile industry is a pressing concern, and according to the company, Jeanologia is committed to transforming production centers into eco-efficient plants that promote sustainability and circular economy.
Jeanologia reports that the company has successfully reduced water consumption from 100 to 1 liter from fabric to the finished garment using its cutting-edge technologies.
By integrating technologies such as G2 Dynamic, Anubis, G2 Ozone and eFlow, Jeanologia significantly reduces water, chemical, and energy consumption, as well as carbon footprint when compared to conventional indigo dyeing methods.
Its goal is to achieve total dehydration and detoxification in denim production, contributing to a more sustainable textile industry. In addition, Jeanologia emphasizes the importance of measuring environmental impact through the EIM software and continuously striving for lower water consumption and more sustainable processes.
The Sustainability Journey Continues
These types of advancements in textile sustainability are instrumental in driving positive change in the industry. By embracing innovation, collaboration, and environmentally responsible practices, these companies and many others not mentioned here are setting new standards for a more sustainable and circular textile industry.
Efforts in advancing sustainability not only mitigate environmental impacts but also meet the growing demand from consumers for products that align with their values. Through traceability, transparency, and the reduction of water and resource consumption, today’s textile companies are leading the way toward a more sustainable future for the textile industry.
Teijin Aramid reports it has improved the carbon footprint of its Twaron® by 28 percent since 2014.
As consumers and brands demand sustainable products, the fiber industry plays a vital role in shaping a more environmentally friendly textile industry.
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In an era of increasing concern about climate change and its impact on the planet, industries, governments and academia are coming together to find sustainable textile solutions that minimize environmental impacts.
The textile industry is making significant strides in developing sustain-able fibers and reducing its carbon footprint. In exploring the latest fiber developments with a focus on sustainability, the following highlights the efforts of the Teijin Group, BioFilaments Inc., Renewcell, PrimaLoft Inc., Thai Acrylic Fibre Co., the DITaF – Denkendorf Institute for Textile Chemistry and Chemical Fibres, the Lenzing Group and RadiciGroup as just a few examples of the industry’s active approach to sustain-able fiber solutions.
The Teijin Group
The Teijin Group has made sustainability a core principle of its business activities. The company reports in recognizing the importance of reducing greenhouse gas emissions, it has set targets to achieve a 30-percent reduction in carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions. The company also aims to reduce the portion of emissions from its supply chain by 15 percent.
These targets have been officially validated as science-based targets (SBTs). By aligning its goals with the Paris Agreement’s objectives, Teijin is targeting a carbon-neutral future.
Teijin also announced it developed a method to calculate CO2 emissions during the Tenax™ carbon fiber production process. This data allowed Teijin to conduct a life cycle assessment (LCA) of all of its carbon fibers.
The Netherlands-based Teijin Aramid, a core business of the Teijin Group, has improved the carbon foot-print of Twaron® by 28 percent com-pared to 2014 according to applicable ISO standards 14040 and 14044.
Teijin Frontier, the company’s fibers and product converting company, also has made significant contributions to sustainability. The company offers products such as ECOPET®, a recycled polyester fiber made from used PET bottles and fiber scraps; and SOLOTEX®, which incorporates plant-derived ingredients in its polymers. Teijin Frontier has also developed a system to calculate CO2 emissions in the polyester fiber manufacturing process, allowing for a comprehensive LCA.
Nanofibrillated Cellulose
Another notable development in the fiber industry is the new nanofibrillated cellulose (NFC) commercial production plant opened by Vancouver, British Columbia-based Performance BioFilaments Inc.
The plant, located at Resolute’s Forest Products in Quebec, has a daily production capacity of 21 metric tons. NFC is a natural and renewable biomaterial derived from certified forests. According to the company, it offers a low-carbon additive that enhances the performance of advanced materials and specialty chemicals used in applications such as concrete, nonwovens and biocomposite plastics. The availability of commercial volumes of NFC opens up opportunities for various industries to adopt sustainable solutions.
“The Performance BioFilaments team and development partners have dedicated years of effort to bring this low-carbon biomaterial to market,” said Gurminder Minhas, managing director of Performance BioFilaments. “We have collaborated extensively across a range of industrial supply chains, integrating nanofibrillated cellulose to achieve cost, quality and dramatic performance improvements. The availability of commercial volumes means we can readily sup-port large-scale opportunities across a number of major industry sectors.”
Renewcell’s patented recycling process transforms cellulosic textile waste into CIRCULOSE® material Photo Sadia Rafique
Renewcell’s CIRCULOSE®
Stockholm-based Renewcell, a company dedicated to creating circularity in the fashion industry, has partnered with TextileGenesis™ to establish full pulp-to-retail traceability for its recycled raw material CIRCULOSE®. Renewcell uses a patented process to break down and recycle cotton and other cellulosic textile waste into Circulose, a biodegradable raw material. According to the company, this material can then be used to create regenerated, man-made cellulosic fibers such as viscose, lyocell, modal or acetate.
Through its collaboration with TextileGenesis, Renewcell can provide real-time digital traceability across its supply chain, ensuring transparency and authenticity for its products. This traceability is crucial for building trust and promoting sustainability in the fashion industry.
“Our new facility in Sundsvall, Sweden, is helping move us towards our goal of recycling the equivalent of more than 1.4 billion T-shirts per year,” said Renewcell CEO Patrik Lundstrom. “But we also need a trusted and transparent supply chain to ensure the authenticity of products made from CIRCULOSE from our facilities all the way to the retail consumer. That is what TextileGenesis brings to the table.”
Outdoor brand Helly Hansen is an early adopter of PrimaLoft’s Insulation with Ocean Bound Plastic.
PrimaLoft Inc. Ocean Bound
Latham, N.Y.-based PrimaLoft Inc. also is contributing to sustainable products with its PrimaLoft® Insulation with Ocean Bound Plastic. This insulation is made from 100-percent post-consumer recycled content, with 60 percent of the recycled mate-rial sourced from plastic bottles collected near coastlines. By preventing plastic waste from reaching the ocean and using it to create high-performance insulation, PrimaLoft is addressing the issue of plastic pollution while delivering sustainable products. The process is certified by OceanCycle, ensuring the material’s ethical sourcing and traceability.
“The quality of plastic quickly degrades once it’s exposed to the elements in ocean water, making it unusable for most recycling efforts,” said Tara Maurer-Mackay, senior vice president, Product Strategy. “By capturing plastic waste before it can reach the ocean, we’re able to use the material to create products that offer our brand partners and consumers the best mix of performance and versatility with a reduced environmental impact.”
According to the company, PrimaLoft Insulation with Ocean Bound Plastic offers the same performance benefits for which PrimaLoft is known, including lightweight thermal performance, packability, and durability. By combining performance with sustainability, PrimaLoft is showing its commitment to its “Relentlessly Responsible™” mission.
Thai Acrylic Fibre Co. Ltd. recently introduced a version of Regel™ acrylic fiber that incorporates 75-percent recycled content
Upgraded Regel™ Fiber
Bangkok-based Thai Acrylic Fibre Co. Ltd. (TAF), a part of Aditya Birla Group, recently introduced an upgraded version of Regel™ fiber, incorporating 75-percent recycled content.
This new variant of Regel fiber, which already contained 50-percent recycled content, now holds the distinction of being the only GRS certified acrylic fiber in the world, according to the company. Regel is manufactured using a chemical recycling process that produces a warm, comfortable fiber in vibrant shades.
“Using recycled materials is a key aspect of sustainability, and products are made from recycled materials are becoming popular among consumers,” said Tuhin Kulshreshtha, head of marketing, TAF. “… increasing the recycled content of Regel from 50 percent to 75 percent will help meet consumers’ demands and provide them with sustainable options. Additionally, [the] higher recycled content in Regel will also allow manufacturers to create sustainable blends without compromising on quality or performance.”
Regel with 75-percent recycled content currently is available in staple form and the company reports it plans to introduce other options such as tow and tops in the future.
Biofeel® Eleven is a yarn from RadiciGroup made using castor oil from the castor bean plant.
Yarn From Castor Oil
RadiciGroup, based in Italy, has introduced Biofeel® Eleven, a naturally sourced yarn made using castor oil, as part of its commitment to technical and environmental performance. Castor oil plantations, primarily located in the Gujarat region of India, provide a source for the beans, which contain approximately 45 percent oil. This oil, rich in ricinolein, serves as the raw material for the bio-polymer polyamide 11 used for RadiciGroup’s Biofeel Eleven yarn. The remaining byproduct after oil extraction is a highly effective bio-fertilizer that promotes soil health, exemplifying circularity and zero waste.
“Biofeel Eleven has unique and special properties, such as low water absorption, increased lightness and improved strength properties,” noted Marco De Silvestri, sales and marketing head of RadiciGroup’s Advanced Textile Solutions Business Area. “This means being able to produce fabrics that are both durable and comfortable to the touch and skin. This translates into a wide range of applications, from sportswear to workwear, from fashion garments to textiles for luxury cars.”
The Denkendorf Institute for Textile Chemistry, in conjunction with partners, is researching CELLUN, a sustainable alternative to glass or carbon fibers used in molded parts.
CELLUN For Composites
The Germany-based Denkendorf Institute for Textile Chemistry and Chemical Fibres (DITF) in collaboration with project partners CG TEC, Cordenka, ElringKlinger, Fiber Engineering, and Technikum Laubholz, is developing a new fiber composite material called CELLUN. This material incorporates reinforcing fibers made of cellulose, offering a sustainable alter-native to glass or carbon fibers used in industrial molded parts production.
The reinforcing component of CELLUN is a combination of non-fusible fibers and thermoplastic derivatized cellulose fibers — either regenerated fibers from Cordenka or DITF’s HighPerCell® cellulose fibers— as a matrix, which is used to produce a hybrid roving. In DITF’s in-house pilot plants, this roving is further processed into a hybrid roving or hybrid textile, which can be converted into a molded part using pultrusion and thermoforming processes or injection molding.
The German Federal Ministry of Economics and Climate Protection (BMWK) has partnered with DITF and is funding a project to develop CELLUN to industry maturity. The project will also look at the possibility to fully recycle CELLUN materials at the end of a product’s life. Two approaches are being researched: thermally reshaping CELLUN molded parts without any quality loss and chemically separating the CELLUN material into its individual components for 100 percent reuse as new starting materials.
The development of CELLUN materials offers a sustainable, resource-conserving, and cost-effective alternative to established composites in the lightweight construction and automotive sectors.
Carbon-Neutral VEOCEL™ Viscose
Austria-based Lenzing Group has announced the expansion of its sustainable viscose fiber portfolio with the launch of carbon-neutral VEOCEL™ branded viscose fibers for Europe and the United States.
In Asia, Lenzing plans to convert its existing production capacity for conventional viscose into capacity for responsible specialty fibers in the second half of the year. This expan-sion reflects VEOCEL’s commitment to providing nonwovens value chain partners and brands with environmentally friendly options that contribute to reducing carbon footprints.
“Everything we do is centered around VEOCEL’s mission to be a responsible everyday care brand and demonstrate our care for the future of our planet,” said Monique Buch, vice president, Global Nonwovens Business, Lenzing. “We believe it is imperative for us to not only reduce our own carbon emissions, but also to empower our partners to reduce their carbon footprint.”
The carbon-neutral VEOCEL viscose fibers are made from sustainably and responsibly managed wood and pulp sources, adhering to the stringent guidelines of the Lenzing Wood and Pulp Policy and trusted forest certification systems.
Right: Biolace® Zero nonwovens made by Suominen feature carbon-neutral VEOCEL lyocell fibers from Lenzing Group.
Lenzing’s production plant in Austria employs efficient production methods, such as direct production from wood to fiber and the use of renewable energy sources like solar power and biomass, to reduce carbon emissions. To offer carbon-neutral products, Lenzing measured, reduced, and offset any remaining emissions through financing climate projects.
Lenzing partnered with Climate-Partner, a provider of corporate climate action solutions, to develop carbon-neutral VEOCEL viscose fibers. The company has also collaborated with Helsinki-based Suominen to produce the first carbon-neutral nonwoven, BIOLACE® Zero, utilizing VEOCEL lyocell fibers. Nonwoven roll-goods made with VEOCEL viscose fibers are available for Suominen’s clients, demonstrating the importance of collaboration in promoting sustainable product development within the nonwoven market.
Fiber Sustainability Focus
The fiber industry is investing in developments with a strong focus on sustainability. Companies like the those mentioned above, as well as many more, are laser-focused on these efforts, driving innovation and creating solutions that minimize environmental impact. Through initiatives such as reducing CO2 emissions, implementing life cycle assessments, promoting circularity, and using recycled materials, fiber companies are leaning towards a more sustainable future. As consumers and brands demand sustainable products and the demand for sustainable products continue to grow, the fiber industry plays a vital role in shaping a more environmentally friendly textile industry.
Researchers made shape-changing fibers by encapsulating a balloon-like tube in a braided textile sheath. Photo: Muh Amdadul Hoque
NC State University researchers designed and tested artificial muscle fibers as scaffolds for live cells.
By Laura Oleniacz
In two new studies, researchers at Raleigh, N.C.-based NC State University designed and tested a series of textile fibers that can change shape and generate force like a muscle. In the first study, the researchers focused on the materials’ influence on the artificial muscles’ strength and contraction length. The findings could help researchers tailor the fibers for different applications.
In the second, proof-of-concept study, the researchers tested their fibers as scaffolds for live cells. Their findings suggest the fibers —known as “fiber robots” — could potentially be used to develop 3D models of living, moving systems in the human body.
“We found that our fiber robot is a very suitable scaffold for the cells, and we can alter the frequency and contraction ratio to create a more suitable environment for cells,” said Muh Amdadul Hoque, graduate student in textile engineering, chemistry and science at NC State. “These were proof-of concept studies; ultimately, our goal is to see if we can study these fibers as a scaffold for stem cells, or use them to develop artificial organs in future studies.”
Researchers made the shape-changing fibers by encapsulating a balloon-like tube, made of a material similar to rubber, in a braided textile sheath. Inflating the interior balloon with an air pump makes the braided sheath expand, causing it to shorten.
The researchers measured the force and contraction rates of fibers made from different materials in order to understand the relationship between material and performance. They found that stronger, larger diameter yarns generated a stronger contraction force. In addition, they found that the material used to make the balloon impacted the magnitude of the con-traction and generated force.
NC State Wilson College of Textiles researchers Xiaomeng Fang and Muh Amdadul Hoque studying artificial muscle fibers. Photo: Akanksha Pragya, NC State
“We found that we could tailor the material properties to the required performance of the device,” said Xiaomeng Fang, assistant professor of textile engineering, chemistry and science at NC State. “We also found that we can make this device small enough so we can potentially use it in fabric formation and other textile applications, including in wearables and assistive devices.”
In a follow-up study, researchers evaluated whether they could use the shape-changing fibers as a scaffold for fibroblasts, a cell type found in connective tissues that help support other tissues or organs.
“The idea with stretching is to mimic the dynamic nature of how your body moves,” said Jessica Gluck, assistant professor of textile engineering, chemistry and science at NC State, and a study co-author.
They studied the cells’ response to the motion of the shape-changing fibers, and to different materials used in the fibers’ construction. They found the cells were able to cover and even penetrate the fiber robot’s braiding sheath. However, they saw decreases in the cells’ metabolic activity when the fiber robot’s contraction extended beyond a certain level, compared to a device made of the same material that they kept stationary.
The researchers are interested in building on the findings to see if they could use the fibers as a 3D biological model, and to investigate whether movement would impact cell differentiation. They said their model would be an advance over other existing experimental models that have been developed to show cellular response to stretching and other motion, since they can only move in two dimensions.
“Typically, if you want to add stretch or strain on cells, you would put them onto a plastic dish, and stretch them in one or two directions,” Gluck said. “In this study, we were able to show that in this 3D dynamic culture, the cells can survive for up to 72 hours.
“This is particularly useful for stem cells,” Gluck added. “What we could do in the future is look at what could happen at the cellular level with mechanical stress on the cells. You could look at muscle cells and see how they’re developing, or see how the mechanical action would help differentiate the cells.”
The study, “Effect of Material Properties on Fiber-Shaped Pneumatic Actuators Performance” was published in Actuators on March 18. Emily Petersen was a co-author. The study was funded by start-up funding to Fang from the Department of Textile Engineering, Chemistry and Science at NC State.
The study, “Development of a Pneumatic-Driven Fiber-Shaped Robot Scaffold for Use as a Complex 3D Dynamic Culture System” was published online in Biomimetics on April 21. In addition to Gluck, Hoque and Fang, co-authors included Nasif Mahmood, Kiran M. Ali, Eelya Sefat, Yihan Huang, Emily Petersen and Shane Harrington. The study was funded by the NC State Wilson College of Textiles and the Department of Textile Engineering, Chemistry and Science and the Wilson College of Textiles Research Opportunity Seed Fund Program.
Editor’s Note: Laura Oleniacz is Public Communications Specialist at NC State News Services.
MADRID — May 30, 2023 — Global lifestyle brand Perry Ellis is partnering with leading materials science experts Recover™, to bring ‘eco denim’ collections to the consumer with the use of Recover’s low-impact recycled cotton fiber.
Perry Ellis was founded on innovation, breaking down the walls of fashion and making clothes designed with real life in mind. Following this ethos, the collaboration with Recover™ allows Perry Ellis to make circular fashion more accessible to the consumer and asserts them as an innovative brand that places sustainability at the forefront.
Sold exclusively on PerryEllis.com, the first Perry Ellis x Recover™ capsule collection launched with ten styles of low-impact men’s denim pants this Spring 2023. Each piece in the collection contains 20% Recover™ recycled cotton fiber from textile waste, reducing the environmental impact of the garment, and was produced by Recover’s vertically integrated strategic partner ADM.
Oscar Feldenkreis, CEO & President, Perry Ellis International commented: “This partnership underscores our dedication to collaborating on sustainability solutions. By incorporating Recover™ fiber into our product design, we can offer our consumers high-quality garments that help reduce our fashion carbon footprint.”
Alfredo Ferre, CEO, Recover™ stated: “We are delighted to collaborate with the iconic brand Perry Ellis and support them on their sustainable journey. As the ingredient brand of reference in recycled cotton, we show once again with this collection that style and sustainability are definitely a perfect match.”
SALT LAKE CITY & ALAMEDA, Calif. — May 30, 2023 — WNDR® Alpine – the outdoor brand launched by the biotechnology company Checkerspot – is releasing the Phase Series, a high performance, low impact activewear line powered by ingredients derived from microalgae.
The Phase Series builds upon WNDR Alpine’s successes creating award-winning backcountry skis and snowboards equipped with microalgae-derived high performance materials.
The team has taken the microalgae oil used in WNDR Alpine skis’ and boards’ AlgalTech® construction and worked with the Swiss green chemistry innovator Beyond Surface Technologies to create miDori® bioWick WA, a 100% petroleum-free textile finish, formulated with microalgae oil and designed to move moisture away from an athlete’s skin to accelerate evaporation for better comfort. miDori® bioWick WA offers a 80% lower carbon footprint than a traditional wicking finish, while retaining competitive performance.
Ski industry veteran and WNDR Alpine’s GM and Founder, Matt Sterbenz emphasized the importance of extending the brand’s range of microalgae-empowered outdoor products. “I think of the Phase Series as an important part of our progression to bring biobased innovation to life through products that benefit the mountain athlete. The collection’s name is a tribute to the many different environments, situations, and phases of the day in which we envisioned the use of this apparel in our core community.”
In addition to the use of miDori® bioWick WA, each of the five pieces in the Phase Series is constructed from a variety of recycled and biobased materials designed for performance and comfort, including recycled nylon, recycled elastane, and Tencel derived from eucalyptus.
“Expanding the reach and impact of microalgae-derived materials is critical to us, so we designed the Phase Series for exertion, recovery, and everything in between,” said Romy Koles, WNDR Alpine’s Soft Goods Manager and outdoor industry textile development veteran. “The Phase Series is packed with hidden features that embody both performance and minimalism, to create a package that’s equally comfortable for biking, hiking, urban wear, and anything our community might be up to in between alpine activities. To further support our mission of environmentally responsible performance, we’re utilizing a US-based production house and fulfilling directly to our community via carbon neutral shipping from our Design Lab in Salt Lake City.”
By launching the Phase Series, WNDR Alpine intends to increase awareness of high-performance biobased textile solutions like miDori® bioWick WA, which is available today to apparel designers worldwide via Beyond Surface Technologies.
“It is the full package that sets it apart and makes it an industry first,” said Matthias Foessel, CEO of Beyond Surface Technologies. “This is a plug-and-play solution that enables mass volume adoption to empower the entire apparel industry players to lower their carbon footprint and meet environmental impact targets.”
WASHINGTON, D.C. — May 30, 2023 — The Plastics Industry Association (PLASTICS) has released an analysis on plastics materials for recycling, authored by PLASTICS Chief Economist Dr. Perc Pineda. The economic analysis provides consideration of the millions of workers employed in the global supply chain of the plastics industry, as representatives meet in France to address the global challenge of plastic waste.
Dr. Pineda writes, “There is widespread support from various sectors of the global economy to address environmental threats in a materials-neutral manner. It is also advocated that any negotiated measures concerning plastics should not be utilized to hinder market access for plastic materials and products. The goal should be to ensure that efforts to keep plastic waste out of the environment and in the economy do not unfairly impede the trade of plastic materials and products, allowing equal opportunities for all participants in the global market.”
Posted: May 30, 2023
Source: The Plastics Industry Association (PLASTICS)
