MÖNCHENGLADBACH, Germany — June 17, 2025 — As a highly specialized company with a focus on excellence in the provision of fabric coating and finishing services, NOVA Textil-Beschichtung GmbH (NTB) has recently benefited from an extensive Monforts modernization program.
NTB’s relationship with Monforts dates back to the company’s formation, with the 1999 installation of a first MONTEX stenter at its plant in Grefrath, Germany – just 30 kilometers away from the Monforts HQ in Mönchengladbach. At that time, the NTB team consisted of just three people at a 1,000 square meter site.
The new management team at NTB (clockwise from top left): Rainer Hurtz, Bastian Schreurs, Lampros Kampas and Oliver Hurz.
Twenty years later, by 2019, the company had grown to a 40-strong workforce operating three MONTEX lines at two adjacent plants covering over 3,500 square metres. NTB sales that year exceeded €8 million for the first time.
Forward momentum
NTB’s initial focus was on the coating of mainly glass fibre fabrics and awnings and sun protection products for outdoor furnishings, as well as breathable membrane film laminations for sportswear.
The latest Monforts MONTEX stenter at NTB
“We had a great customer who was providing us with so many orders that by 2005 we took the decision to order a second MONTEX stenter, in a special configuration,” explains managing director and founder Rainer Hurtz. “This also allowed us to enter the market for blackout and digital printing fabrics.”
Another important development for the company was its approval by the German Armed Forces (Bundeswehr) for the supply of vector protection clothing and equipment. NTB’s special finishing technology is essential in shielding military personnel from insect bites and vector-borne diseases which can be prevalent and deadly in many areas of the world. In 2023, Germany’s Ministry of Defence subsequently granted NTB an exemption for the processing of permethrin for its vector protection services, in the interest of national defence.
Covid-19 resilience
In 2015, a third MONTEX production line with a working width of 3.4 metres was installed to meet ever-increasing demand, but inevitably, the company’s forward momentum was set back somewhat as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic.
Despite a sudden 70% drop in sales, NTB was nevertheless able to retain all its staff and in 2020 founded Gorilla Protect GmbH, as a distributor of advanced anti-viral face masks.
Post-pandemic, regular business has resumed and the company celebrated its 25th anniversary in 2024.
It is now in the process of a generational change, with Rainer Hurtz stepping back and management of the company being transferred to his son Oliver as Commercial Director, along with Technical Director Bastian Schreurs and Sales and Development Manager Lampros Kampas.
“I will accompany and support them as long as it makes sense,” says Rainer Hurtz. “The company’s goal has always been to understand how processes work and to continuously optimize them. As such, our current focus is on process data acquisition and analysis, a high degree of digitalization, actively implemented quality management and the introduction of an energy and occupational safety management system. If you stop getting better, you’ve stopped being good.”
Digital affinity
Technical Director Bastian Schreurs – who was NTB’s first-ever trainee – has worked closely with Monforts specialists on the modernization project and is in full agreement.
“Our goal is to be able to offer a high level of quality and service, with our business under constant price pressure from our Asian competitors,” he says. “We see this modernization project as an opportunity to further establish ourselves and thus retain our customers. It is also important to continue advancing our digitalization, firstly, to better understand our processes, and secondly, to remain attractive as an employer. Young people have a strong affinity for digital things and while we can always buy the best machines, without well-trained specialists to operate them, it’s impossible.”
He adds that the electronic controls of the two older MONTEX stenters particularly needed updating, as sourcing spare parts, most notably of the frequency converters, had become increasingly difficult.
Updated system
Monforts has subsequently installed new control cabinets and Qualitex 800 technology to the two older MONTEX stenters at NTB, along with programmable logic controller (PLCs) process visualization and 24-inch TFT multi-touch color screens at the stenter frame infeeds.
The outfeed, padder and calender have further been equipped with seven-inch touchscreen control panels and all frequency inverters for the drives used to transport the textiles have been updated.
Overall control is via a Siemens TIA 1500er F portal and a Gateway server/client OPC/UA interface.
“The clamping frames of the stenters are now equipped with the latest drive and control technology as well as visualization and thanks to the OPC-UA interface, data can now be read out directly from the PLC and analyzed by a customer’s EAP system,” explains Monforts Area Sales Manager Thomas Päffgen. “Our machines are known for their robustness and long service life, but the retrofitting of specific modules with new control and drive technology – going far beyond the basic replacement of spare parts – can have a significant impact on the performance of an existing line.”
Quality
“Our goal was to be able to produce all fabric orders on any of the three MONTEX lines, and we naturally chose Monforts for this project,” adds Bastian Schreurs. “We didn’t have to do anything mechanically apart from updating the safety devices, which speaks volumes about the quality that Monforts has been delivering to us for 26 years now. I would like to once again praise the Monforts service department headed by Volker Gingter and our own workshop staff, because not only the scheduling, but also the implementation of this project was virtually seamless. It is very important for us to have competent and always available partners and unfortunately, as we have repeatedly experienced, this is not a given these days.”
“We’ve had a great ongoing relationship with Monforts from the beginning,” concludes Rainer Hurtz.
MILAN — June 17, 2025 — At the next edition of Milano Unica, an international trade fair for high-end fabrics and accessories, scheduled to take place at Rho Fiera Milano from July 8 to 10, ACIMIT (the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers) will participate for the first time with an institutional booth.
Through this initiative, ACIMIT aims to foster connections between its member companies, exhibitors, and buyers attending Milano Unica, while also promoting greater awareness of the cutting-edge technological solutions that define the Italian textile machinery industry—particularly in the areas of sustainability, circular economy, and digitalization.
Marco Salvadè, President of ACIMIT: “I believe it is essential for our Association to be present at such a significant trade event. The synergy between Italian excellence in textiles and textile machinery has always been, and continues to be, a key factor in strengthening the leadership of the entire Italian textile supply chain.”
General information on Italy’s textile machinery sector
ACIMIT represents an industrial sector that comprises roughly 300 manufacturers (employing around 12,500 people), which produce machinery for an overall worth of around 2.1 billion euros, of which 86% are exported. Creativity, sustainable technology, reliability and quality are the hallmarks that have made Italian textile machinery worldwide leaders.
Posted: June 17, 2025
Source: The Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT)
MÖNCHENGLADBACH, Germany — June 12, 2025 — It’s hard to find skilled operators for spinning mills in Vietnam. Rapid industrialization is creating competition for young talents and many workers choose roles in other industries. Customer Tra Ly Hung Yen has found a partner in Trützschler to help mitigate the effects of this labor shortage and enable successful operations.
From left to right: Benjamin Mund (Regional Sales Manager at Trützschler), Do Thi Lan Phuong (Director of Tra Ly), Nguyen Van Trai (Equipment Coordinator at Tra Ly), Nguyen Van Binh (Trützschler Technician), Do Manh Nhan (Mill Manager) and Dinh Van Loi (Trützschler Sales Agent).
Traditionally, yarn manufacturers need many experienced and qualified workers. However, it is difficult to attract and retain these operators. In addition, raw material fluctuations add extra challenges for all spinners. In order to produce yarn with consistent quality, it is necessary to make precise adjustments to the processing system – and this requires trained employees. A major headache for businesses in quality- driven markets like Vietnam!
Tra Ly is one of those businesses. The company’s success is built on a longstanding reputation for quality, so labor shortages generated a potential threat to its future. The family-owned company mainly produces carded and combed cotton (Ne 20 to Ne 40) through standard and compact spinning methods. It has a production capacity of 60 tons per day, with half of that output exported to China, Pakistan or Bangladesh. To find a solution to its labor shortage, the Tra Ly team contacted its trusted partners at Trützschler.
Traly operates numerous Trützschler carding machines. Recently, the TC 19i completed Tra Ly’s portfolio.
The answer from Trützschler: Highly automated, self-optimizing machinery that helps to maintain consistent quality – even when processing raw materials of varying qualities. This reduces the need for manual intervention. As Do Thi Lan Phuong, Director of Tra Ly, points out: “Innovations from Trützschler offer efficient handling that frees up time for our employees. In this way, we are able to cope with labor shortages. These machines enable higher productivity, improved sliver evenness and more energy-efficient manufacturing. And working together with Trützschler is always a great experience because of their deep expertise, can-do attitude and positive energy.”
Automatized and optimized
Tra Ly now operates the following advanced technologies from Trützschler:
T-SCAN TS-T5: High-quality foreign part separation
This foreign part separator uses state-of-the-art sensors and image-processing technology to detect foreign parts like stems, leaf fragments or other waste – and then automatically ejects them to minimize fiber loss. The highly efficient machine is also easy to clean and maintain, even when production is running.
The intelligent card TC 19i with T-GO
Tra Ly is also benefiting from the TC 19i with T-GO, which is the world’s only proven automatic gap optimizer for carding machines. It increases quality and flexibility by self-adjusting to ensure the best possible carding gap settings in real time, even when raw materials or other production conditions fluctuate.
Autoleveller Draw Frame TD-10
Automated functions like AUTO DRAFT and OPTI SET enable this draw frame to ensure excellent yarn quality by self-optimizing the break draft and drafting point in real time. These innovations help machine operators to adapt settings for various raw material types.
Boosting productivity: The 12-head comber TCO 21XL
This machine increases productivity by about 50% because it operates 12 heads instead of a typical eight head setup, while delivering the same excellent quality. Features like COUNT MONITORING perform automatic checks on sliver count variations from a given limit, thus contributing to consistent quality.
Local expertise and fast support
Trützschler’s local team of technical experts, along with its well-stocked spare parts inventory and repair facilities in Vietnam, ensure that Tra Ly maintains high levels of productivity with reliable quality. This expert team provides fast responses based on indepth knowledge. As a result, Tra Ly can rely on outstanding customer service – and downtime is kept to a minimum. The team from Trützschler is even available to suggest process improvements and potential digital optimizations.
Fit for the future
Tra Ly recently installed My Mill, Trützschler’s mill monitoring system. Based on real-time data from My Mill, Trützschler experts can conduct digital audits to provide on-site guidance, training and troubleshooting. Trützschler is looking forward to continuing to support Tra Ly. The Vietnamese company is excited about the ongoing collaboration, too. “Working together with Trützschler is always a great experience because of their deep expertise, can-do attitude, and positive energy,” says Do Thi Lan Phuong, Director of Tra Ly.
BRUSSELS — June 12, 2025 — The first Textiles Recycling Expo took place in Brussels on 4-5 June 2025 and has been heralded as a landmark gathering for the industry, bringing together key stakeholders and promoting discussion, collaboration and innovation.
The event attracted 126 exhibitors and 3,336 visitors from 67 countries, making it the largest ever meeting focused on textiles recycling. The audience came from across Europe and beyond, with 12% travelling from Africa, Asia and America.
Attendees represented the complete supply chain, from major waste management organisations and pioneering recyclers through to textile manufacturers and leading clothing and retail brands. The latter included sustainability specialists from companies such as Aldi, Burberry, C&A, Chanel, Decathlon, Diesel, Gucci, H&M, Hermes, Ikea, Lidl, M&S, Nike, Oxfam, Patagonia, Primark, Puma, Tommy Hilfiger, Uniqlo and Zara. With leading brands, innovators, and policymakers converging under one roof, the expo emphasized the need for collaborative action to promote sustainability, adopt effective recycling technologies, and build a circular economy.
Aurel Ciobanu-Dordea, Director for Circular Economy at the European Commission, gave the opening presentation and remarked on both the energy of the event and the impressive technologies on display. The buzz at the expo was reflected in numerous comments on LinkedIn and social media, including attendees describing it as “bustling, energetic and full of momentum”, and as “a breakthrough week for circular fashion”.
Event Manager, Zied Chetoui said: “We are thrilled with the overwhelming response to the first-ever Textiles Recycling Expo. The enthusiastic participation certainly demonstrates the industry’s commitment to sustainability and innovation. This event has undoubtedly laid a strong foundation for the future of textile recycling and set a high standard for what we can achieve together.”
The exhibition featured a global array of suppliers of cutting-edge technologies and services to increase textiles recycling rates. Highlights included live demonstrations of innovative sorting systems by Valvan and NewRetex.
Another popular feature was the conference theatre, which was packed out throughout the two-day event. More than 50 expert speakers discussed the latest developments in regulations, technologies, recycling projects and practical ways to increase waste recovery rates.
The exhibition benefited from the widespread support of key industry associations, organisations and consortia, including ReHubs, EURATEX, Accelerating Circularity, Fedustria, Denim Deal, EuRIC and the Textile Recycling Association. Several took part in the expo’s Industry Alliance Hub, which provided a lively meeting place for promoting discussion and collaboration.
The Textiles Recycling Expo has not only highlighted the critical importance of recycling in the textile sector but also inspired new collaborations and initiatives aimed at creating a more sustainable future and truly reflects the exciting momentum that is building for the industry
The next Textiles Recycling Expo will take place in Charlotte, NC, USA on 29-30 April 2026, and the European event will return to Brussels Expo on 24-25 June 2026. Spaces at both exhibitions are already filling up fast.
PARIS — June 16, 2025 — Hexcel Corporation, a global supplier of advanced composite materials, celebrated 50 years of supply to Embraer during a celebration at the Paris Air Show, marked by the signing of a preferred supplier agreement for composite raw materials. This milestone underscores the enduring collaboration and mutual commitment to innovation and excellence in aerospace technology.
“We are honored to celebrate 50 years of supply to Embraer, a relationship that has been built on trust, innovation, and shared vision,” said Tom Gentile, Chairman, President and CEO of Hexcel, during a ceremony at the 55th International Paris Air Show. “Hexcel’s advanced composite materials have been integral to the performance and efficiency of Embraer’s aircraft, and we look forward to continuing this journey together.”
“Hexcel has been a key partner in our mission to deliver our aircraft with safety first and quality always,” added Roberto Chaves, Executive Vice-President of Global Procurement & Supply Chain of Embraer. “Their commitment to quality, collaboration and innovation has contributed to the sustainable growth of our businesses. We are excited to recognize Hexcel as a preferred supplier. Through this partnership, we are shaping the future of the aerospace industry.”
Hexcel has been a longstanding provider of a range of advanced composite materials to Embraer, including prepregs, engineered core, and advanced structures. These materials are used in various Embraer aircraft platforms, such as the C-390 military transport, the E-Jet E2 family of narrowbody regional aircraft, and the Phenom 300 business jet.
Hexcel’s history with Embraer is marked by numerous achievements, including the recent recognition as Supplier of the Year in the Standards & Materials Category. This award is a testament to Hexcel’s dedication to delivering high-quality materials and exceptional service.
As both companies celebrated 50 years of collaboration, they reaffirmed their commitment to advancing aerospace technology and creating a sustainable future for the industry through future development and demonstration programs.
“We have had fantastic record of collaboration and excellence over the last 50 years,” concluded Gentile. “Hexcel’s vertically integrated supply chain, global manufacturing expertise, and world-class composites technologies have enhanced the performance and reliability of Embraer’s aircraft, and our commitment is to help Embraer advance the future of aviation for the next 50 years and beyond.”
MUMBAI, MAHARASHTRA — June 16, 2025 — Drawing 10,283 visitors from 230 Indian cities and five countries, Gartex Texprocess India 2025 reaffirmed its stature as a key business platform for the Indian textile industry. Featuring 125 exhibitors and covering the entire value chain, the expo served as a robust platform for textile technologies, innovations and sourcing. Organised by Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd, the event also incorporated The Denim Show, Screen Print India – Textiles, and the Fabrics & Trims Show, offering industry stakeholders a unified source for knowledge exchange and business networking.
At the forefront was India’s rapidly transforming textile manufacturing landscape, with automation, sustainability, and innovation steering the conversation. Leading buyers and manufacturing brands engaged in direct sourcing and dialogue with top machinery suppliers and fabric producers.
The expo was inaugurated by Shri Sanjay Savkare, Hon’ble Minister of Textiles, Government of Maharashtra, who emphasized the state’s focus on strengthening local manufacturing of globally sourced components and machinery. Uttar Pradesh participated as the State Partner, represented by Shri Shashank Chaudhary (IAS), Additional CEO, Invest UP, who elaborated on the textile-centric initiatives by the UP government and presented a dedicated knowledge session for industry stakeholders.
From across borders, the Taiwan Sewing Machinery Association (TSMA) participated with a pavilion of eight companies. Mr Steven Fang, Chairman, TSMA, stated: “We saw a good visitor turnout from all over India. We see a big market here and would like to continue with our participation in the upcoming editions.”
Denim Industry’s Sustainable Shift
The Denim Show attracted major manufacturers and presented a variety of new denim collections, eco-conscious dyes, screen-printing solutions, and accessory lines. More than 30 denim mills showcased at the show, engaging buyers like Aditya Birla Digital Fashion Venture Ltd, Levi’s Strauss India Pvt Ltd, Walmart, The Souled Store, and more.
Mr Vasudev Tipre, GM Exports, Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills, shared: “Automation has improved efficiency. We supply leading global brands, with 50% exports to Asia and South America. The exhibition’s blend of fabric and machinery segments makes this a valuable platform.”
Mr Sourav Jalan, Director and Promoter, Syama Denims, noted: “This is a good opportunity to interact with new-age D2C brands who often don’t get a chance to meet mills directly. Gartex always brings customers and suppliers under one roof, and we’ve been happy to return year after year.”
Mr Aamir Akhtar, Group President and CEO, Jindal Worldwide Ltd, added: “We use water-saving technologies in our new premium line, ‘Formula 1,’ and recover used water through a zero-liquid discharge plant. The experience here is very well organised — a benchmark for the Indian trade.”
Mr Harish Agarwal, Owner, Bhagwati Chemicals, stated: “The show gave us strong leads beyond denims. With four decades of experience in supplying dyes and chemicals, this platform proved beneficial to us, especially with deep technical inquiries from buyers.”
Mr B Vinod Kumar, General Manager – Denim & Casual Bottoms, Arvind Fashions, remarked: “Massive machines were showcased, which we usually can’t see outside manufacturing setups. Bringing that to a common platform is a job well done.”
Mr Sreehari Krishnan, Director – Plant Operations & Quality, Bewakoof Brands Pvt Ltd, shared: “We came to explore denims and printing accessories. There are amazing new developments like HD stickers and embroidery, and lightweight dobby denim fabrics perfect for summers.”
Product Technology & Innovation in Focus
Expressing their satisfaction on the show, exhibitors also highlighted breakthrough machinery and processes driving efficiency, sustainability and cost savings in textile production. Mr Nitin Mathur, Regional Sales Manager, IIGM Private Limited: “The exhibition saw excellent footfall and strong interest in automation, even among small businesses, as labour costs rise.”
Mr Sai Navneethan, Regional Head – Sustainable Products, Ramsons Garment Finishing Equipment Pvt Ltd, “Automation is key for high-volume garment finishing. PLC-controlled systems also create more opportunities for women to lead in operations.”
Ms Ujjwala Upadhyay, Brand Manager, Insight Print Communications Pvt Ltd represented Mimaki’s dye sublimation machines. She said: “We are here to connect with potential clients across sportswear, home furnishings, and signage. With growing focus on sustainability, consumers are looking at the ethos of the organisations while buying. This year, we’ve seen strong footfall at Gartex.”
Mr S Eswaran, Product Head-Duerkopp Adler & PFAFF, Mehala Machines presented automation solutions from Duerkopp Adler, Germany, noting significant visitor engagement and interest in their offerings. He stated: “Gartex Texprocess India Mumbai edition was very well organised. The location of our stall is also good as we received a very good visitor turnout. We had also invited many of our potential clients and most of them visited were interested to find out automation solutions.”
Backed by strong industry support, especially from the Denim Manufacturers Association, Gartex Texprocess India continues to evolve as a robust sourcing and innovation hub. This year’s edition welcomed representatives from Aditya Birla Group, Brands and Sourcing Leaders Association, Coreco, Recyclr, Technopak Advisors, TMRW, House of Brands, Walmart Sourcing and WROGN Pvt Ltd, among many others.
The next edition of Gartex Texprocess India will take place from 21–23 August 2025 at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi and the Mumbai edition is scheduled from 09 – 11 April 2026 at Bombay Exhibition Centre.
DURHAM, N.C.— June 13, 2025 — The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) has launched a new test method, TM217-2025, Liquid Moisture Management: Vertical and Horizontal Wicking — Image Analysis.
The method was developed to support improved understanding of liquid wicking and moisture transport in textile fabrics, aligning with advancements in imaging-based instrumentation. It was created in consultation with textile test instrument designer and manufacturer, James Heal.
The test method employs imaging technology and data analysis to measure, evaluate, and classify moisture movement in textiles both vertically and horizontally. This approach provides a dualistic assessment of performance under wear conditions.
If you would like to drive the industry forward by helping to create innovative new standards through research committee involvement reach out to AATCC Technical Department for more details at standardsmatter@aatcc.org
AATCC Delivers End-to-End Support for Textile Testing with Training, Supplies, and Technical Expertise
AATCC plays a leading role in the development of internationally recognized textile testing standards. Through a collaborative, consensus-based process, AATCC brings together global experts from industry, academia, and government to create rigorous, science-based test methods. These standards ensure consistency, reliability, and innovation in textile quality and performance across international markets.
Building on this foundation, AATCC offers a comprehensive suite of products and services that bring these standards to life. From On-site Test Method Training and Textile Testing Fundamentals to the Global Trainers Program, Proficiency Testing, Testing Supplies, and expert Technical Staff Support, AATCC empowers professionals worldwide to implement best practices and maintain the highest levels of material performance. AATCC is the trusted partner for textile professionals worldwide.
AATCC Technical Department: Your Direct Line to Expert Support
AATCC’s Technical Department Staff are available to assist members and customers with questions related to test methods, product usage, and standards interpretation. Whether you’re troubleshooting a test procedure, selecting the right reference fabric, or preparing for an audit, AATCC’s experts are here to help.
Support Services Include:
Clarification of AATCC test methods and procedures
Guidance on selecting appropriate testing supplies and materials
Assistance with proficiency testing and laboratory performance feedback
Technical insights into research, development, and compliance
AATCC Services and Products: Trusted Solutions for the Textile Industry
On-site Test Method Training
Hands-on, customized instruction delivered at your facility. AATCC delivers expert-led, hands-on instruction directly at company facilities. This customizable program allowed organizations to select the date, location, and AATCC test methods most relevant to their needs. With small group sizes, interactive lab sessions, and flexible scheduling, the training offers a tailored learning experience designed to enhance staff expertise and testing accuracy.
Textile Testing Fundamentals
Offered in collaboration with the Zeis Textiles Extension Department of the Wilson College of Textiles at North Carolina State University, this on-demand online course is designed for anyone looking to deepen their understanding of textile technology. Whether you’re new to the industry or seeking a refresher, Textile Fundamentals provides accessible, expert-led instruction to build a strong foundation in textile science.
Testing Supplies & Reference Materials
AATCC offers a comprehensive selection of standardized testing materials to ensure consistency and reliability in textile evaluation. These include control fabrics, reference detergents, gray scales for color change and staining, chromatic transference scales, and other essential tools specified in AATCC test methods. All materials are developed or selected to meet the rigorous specifications outlined in AATCC standards, supporting accurate, reproducible results across a wide range of performance tests.
Proficiency Testing Program
AATCC’s Proficiency Testing Programs (PTP) are designed to support laboratory certification and drive continuous improvement. Each program provides carefully selected samples that yield consistent, meaningful results across a range of test methods and evaluation procedures. Participating labs can benchmark their performance, validate accuracy, and demonstrate a commitment to high-quality, reliable testing.
AATCC Global Trainers Program – Expanding Textile Testing Expertise Worldwide
The AATCC Global Trainers Program empowers a network of qualified professionals to deliver standardized, high-quality instruction in AATCC test methods across the globe. Trainers are carefully selected and certified by AATCC to ensure consistency, technical accuracy, and excellence in textile testing education. Through this program, AATCC extends its reach, enabling local access to expert-led training that supports global harmonization of testing practices and promotes continuous professional development in the textile industry.
Together, these offerings provide a comprehensive ecosystem for textile professionals—from education and training to testing, quality assurance, and expert support.
Posted: June 16, 2025
Source: The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
SINGAPORE — June 16, 2025 — ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025 has released the eagerly awaited exhibitor list on a new mobile app available for users of both Android and IOS devices.
Although the sales application period has closed, new space applications have continued to stream in, signaling strong confidence from exhibitors in the leading textile machinery showcase.
The four-day exhibition at Singapore Expo has attracted over 770 exhibitors from 31 countries and regions. Spanning 70,000 square metres of gross exhibition space, it features 19 product sectors that represents the entire textile manufacturing value chain.
To enhance the visitor experience, ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025’s new companion mobile app enables visitors to curate their own itinerary with a bookmark feature. A built-in wayfinder system lets visitors plan the shortest routes for booth visits with minimal fuss. This is also a handy feature for exhibitors to quickly locate potential partners for networking opportunities.
Currently, the exhibitor listing is only available on the mobile app and an online version will be released on the ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025 website in end June.
ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025 is owned by CEMATEX (the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers) and its Chinese partners comprising China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) and the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT TEX).
The exhibition is organised by ITMA Services Pte Ltd and co-organised by Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co., Ltd (BJITME). Japan Textile Machinery Association (JTMA) is a special partner.
Visitors hoping to enjoy the online early bird rates for badge purchases can still do so before 28 September on www.itmaasiasingapore.com.
Outgoing NCTO Chairman Charles Heilig outlined the U.S. textile industry’s major challenges and achievements last year during his “State of the U.S. Textile Industry” address during NCTO’s 21st annual meeting in Washington.
By Charles Heilig
As we all know, the last few years have been challenging, both within our businesses and here in Washington. I would like to provide an overview of some of the major issues our industry faced as well as the progress we made, and achievements accomplished last year.
The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) represents the full spectrum of the U.S. textile industry — a production chain that employs 471,000 workers nationwide and produces $64 billion in output annually. Our industry is a key contributor to our national defense and supplies over 8,000 products a year to the military. It is also a leading high-tech innovator supplying cutting-edge solutions and end products in diverse fields such as heart valves and stents to aircraft components and advanced body armor.
Our industry’s resilience and innovation is unparalleled and strong, despite economic and trade headwinds that have impacted our sector and our customers.
The breadth of challenges we face every day is astonishing — economic downturns, predatory trade practices, such as the use of forced labor in supply chains, ill-conceived trade policies, inadequate customs enforcement of trade fraud, post-pandemic inventory
related issues, freight and logistics challenges, and race-to-the-bottom business models that — all combined — are suppressing growth and investment, leading to a persistent and severe downturn in business.
There is no doubt we have experienced a very challenging three-year-cycle and our domestic production has been harmed as a result.
With all that in mind, I am reminded of a comment Kennesaw State University’s top economist Roger Tutterow said at a past NCTO meeting.
I’m paraphrasing here but he noted: “A market disruption like this takes years to rebalance,” and that is what we are all experiencing.
Recognizing that we are in a pro-longed market disruption, the challenge we now face is to effectively respond not only with improvements to our business models, but also in the policy arena to ensure we will rebound and continue to expand as an industry.
To confront these challenges, NCTO and industry leaders launched an aggressive lobbying campaign over the past year to raise awareness about the myriad trade policies impacting the industry and the importance of our sector to the economy.
I can’t stress how important and invaluable NCTO is to each of our members individually and to the industry as a whole. It is our collective voice where we make a meaningful difference for companies and employees.
And our voices are being heard at the highest levels of the administration and on Capitol Hill.
Cabinet secretaries and members of Congress elevated the textile industry’s importance to the economy and national defense base at congressional hearings, conferences, in the press and in countless letters — all due to our diligent and effective work through executive fly-ins, high-level meetings, policy analysis, letters and press engagement throughout the year.
Before highlighting NCTO’s policy wins in 2024, I want to quickly share a “by the numbers” recap of the key data points that highlight our industry’s resilience and staying power.
By The Numbers
Despite the economic downturn and unfair trade practices impacting the industry in 2024, our metrics remained stable or registered only slight declines, with the exception of employment in the cotton and wool sectors. This again underscores the industry’s ability to adapt during challenging times and remain viable even while registering painful losses.
In 2024, the value of U.S. man-made fiber, textile and apparel shipments totaled an estimated $63.9 billion compared with $64.8 billion in 2023.1
Here are additional key industry facts:
U.S. exports of fibers, textiles and apparel were $28 billion in 2024 compared with $29.7 billion in 2023.2
The United States remains the second largest individual country exporter of textile products in the world.
The U.S. textile and apparel industry invested $3 billion in new plants and equipment in 2022, which is the last year data was available for this figure.3
The bottom line is many key fundamentals for the U.S. textile industry remained sound, while some weakened due to the economic and trade headwinds I mentioned a few moments ago.
Policy Issues
Now I would like to highlight a few accomplishments the NCTO staff achieved during the year.
NCTO actively promoted policies to expand the U.S. textile industry at home and in key overseas markets, such as the Western Hemisphere — which accounts for 70 percent of U.S. yarn and fabric exports and supports more than 2.6 million workers throughout this hemisphere — including efforts to preserve yarn-forward rules on origin and broaden export opportunities.
Customs Enforcement
In the area of customs enforcement, NCTO and industry leaders met with Department of Homeland Security (DHS) Secretary Alejandro Mayoras in early January 2024 to highlight industry challenges and make recommendations for an aggressive enforcement plan. We stressed the prioritization of robust enforcement of free trade agreement rules of origin, the need to close the de minimis loophole, and fully enforce the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA).
Following our direct engagement and input, Secretary Mayorkas unveiled a textile enforcement plan in early April, which marked a critical step to combat import fraud and circumvention of free trade agreement rules and trade laws. Secretary Mayorkas also participated in a fireside chat with NCTO’s president and CEO Kim Glas at our Annual Meeting last year.
During the year, NCTO remained actively engaged with DHS and U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) leadership as the plan was put into action, providing tips to investigators; highlighting increased penalties and onsite verifications, which increased from 38 in FY22 to 136 in FY24; and amplifying the expansion of the UFLPA violator’s entities list, which grew from 33 to 144 companies.
In addition, NCTO members attended the opening of a new isotopic testing facility at the port of Savannah in September which will help the agency in its UFLPA enforcement. The agency has purchased new equipment and is in the process of ramping up this important testing capability to detect banned cotton grown in the Xinjiang province.
De Minimis
In perhaps one of the most targeted and coordinated efforts undertaken by NCTO, industry leaders executed a sweeping and effective lobbying campaign on Capitol Hill and with the administration to press for de minimis reform to permanently close the trade loophole for all countries.
I cannot stress enough how important this engagement is to the industry. It involved fly-ins, letters, and meetings with members of Congress and key staff on relevant congressional committees — both on the Hill and in districts. It required detailed policy analysis, phone calls and countless emails to educate and raise awareness about the adverse impact this ill-conceived provision in U.S. trade law has had on our industry and manufacturing as a whole.
In addition, NCTO spearheaded the formation of the Coalition to Close the De Minimis Loophole, a broad alliance including families of victims of fentanyl fatalities and non-profit organizations, domestic law enforcement associations, manufacturers and business associations.
Coalition members participated in roundtables and press conferences with reform champions like Congressman Earl Blumenauer and Congresswoman Rosa DeLauro.
They lobbied lawmakers on the Hill and sent letters to key policymakers —all in a coordinated and unified effort to close this dangerous loophole.
NCTO and the coalition are constantly pressing President Trump and his administration to reinstate his pro-posed ban on de minimis imports from China and to take additional action to close the harmful de minimis loophole for all countries permanently.
NCTO is also urgently working to pass a new Miscellaneous Tariff bill with immediate and full retroactivity.
And the organization continues to press for the expansion of the Berry Amendment, after securing key pro-visions in the Fiscal Year 2025 National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA) which Congress passed late last year. The NDAA supports the Berry Amendment, which requires the Department of Defense to purchase 100 percent U.S. made textiles and clothing. The legislation includes two new key provisions important to the domestic textile industry.
Another key priority is advocating for full enforcement of the Make PPE in America Act, which recently led to the award of two government contracts to NCTO member companies.
Additionally, NCTO continues to amplify support for the Section 301 case against China’s intellectual property abuses and pressing for a dramatic increase in tariffs on finished textile and apparel imports from China.
And NCTO is working diligently to protect qualifying trade within our free trade agreements (FTAs).
While we don’t have time to delve into all these important issues, I do want to emphasize that NCTO remains highly engaged on every policy matter that affects the U.S. textile industry with the intent of shaping policies that directly benefit U.S. textile investment, production and employment.
Please also note that industry leadership and involvement is of paramount importance. From contributions to NCTO’s Textile PAC to arranging congressional visits, the industry makes a difference every day in raising awareness about our important contribution to local and state economies and the U.S. economy overall.
Conclusion
Our industry is experiencing historic challenges that have tested our resolve, and we will continue to see headwinds in the year ahead.
But I know the true resilient nature of our industry and I’ve seen how it has sustained a foothold as a major contributor to the U.S. economy through historic downturns. We will again weather the storm and rebound from this current business cycle, possibly even later this year. There are many reasons I am optimistic about the industry’s future. I know that NCTO and industry leaders will be at the forefront of advocacy on our behalf and continue to engage with members of Congress and the administration to enact policies that bolster and expand the industry, ranging from targeted tariffs to tax reform and expanded government procurement of American-made products. And I know our organization and industry will continue to work in conjunction with our Western Hemisphere trading partners to thwart challenges to our free trade agreement rules, focus on our export markets and sustain and expand our coproduction chain.
In addition, we will continue pressing for stepped-up enforcement and penalties against rampant illegal trade practices and fraud.
In 2025, we look forward to continuing our engagement with Congress and the new administration to secure additional policy achievements and ensure a vibrant future for this industry.
References: 1 U.S. Census Bureau, Manufacturers’ Shipments, Inventories, and Orders (M3) Survey, and Annual Survey of Manufacturers (ASM), value of shipments for NAICS 313, 314, 315 & 32522. 2021 data used to estimate 2023 NAICS 32522 figure. 2 U.S. Department of Commerce data for Export Group 0: Textiles and Apparel. 3 U.S. Census Bureau, Annual Capital Expenditures Survey (ACES), NAICS 313, 314 & 315.
Editor’s Notes: Information contained in the speech was current as of NCTO’s annual meeting. Charles Heilig is president of Gastonia, N.C.-based Parkdale Mills. He served as the 2024 NCTO chairman. At the 2025 annual NCTO meeting in Washington, Chuck Hall, global president and CEO of Spartanburg, S.C.-based Barnet, succeeded Heilig as NCTO chairman; and Amy Bircher-Bruyn, president and CEO of Brooklyn, Ohio-based MMI Textiles, was elected vice chairman.
The North American Industry Classification System (NAICS) is the standard used by Federal statistical agencies in classifying business establishments for the purpose of collecting, analyzing, and publishing statistical data related to the U.S. business economy. NAICS Subsector 313 covers Textile Mills, sub-sector 314 covers Textile Product Mills and subsector 315 covers Apparel.
NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas with a delegation of Guatemalan leaders.
Trade Associations serve many roles, and recently the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) seized the moment in a turbulent time for U.S. textiles.
TW Special Report
In the United States, trade associations play a noteworthy role in supporting industries, business and professionals through advocacy; providing a networking community; and presenting a unified, empowered group identity.
This is a tall order for any association, but even more so for those in textiles considering the depth and breadth of the segmented U.S. industry.
Recently, the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) effectively seized the moment during a turbulent time, addressing a long-term international trade loophole affecting the industry and responding to fast-moving trade policy changes that carry significant weight on the survival and prosperity of U.S. textiles.
The National Council Of Textile Organizations
Trade associations have been an enduring feature of the U.S. textile industry throughout history, often with geographic or industry-sector focused missions.
Broad associations, that bridge sectors and geography, have been less prevalent and successful, but have a well-storied past that could fill volumes.
Today, NCTO’s identity stands in: “… representing the entire spectrum of the textile sector. From fibers to finished products, from machinery manufacturers to power suppliers, NCTO is the voice of the U.S. textile industry.”
It does so with five separate councils — Fiber; Yarn; Fabric; Finished Textile and Apparel; and Industry Support, which comprises distributors, converters, dyers, printers and finishers, as well as suppliers of products and services. Each council has a board for representation. This structure, according to the NCTO, is to “ensure a broad representation of the supply chain.”
Kim Glas, NCTO, Leib Oehmig, Glen Raven, Congressman David Rouzer (R-N.C) and Congressman Patrick McHenry (R-N.C.), who has since retired.
De Mini — What?
Very few Americans including very few members of the textile industry, had ever heard the phrase “de minimis,” five years ago, let alone had any understanding of its implications on international trade or the health of U.S. textiles.
Today, the Latin phrase and its impact on the textile industry and consumers is well documented. Without getting in the weeds, the dictionary states, de minimis means “of minimal things” or “so small as to be disregarded.” In legal and business contexts, it refers to something insignificant or negligible, often to the point that it’s not worth addressing or taking legal action.
In terms of NCTO’s interest, the de minimis trade exemption was a customs accommodation for small packages, of little value — in this case $800 or less per day, per person — shipped internationally into the United States under Section 321 of the Tariff Act of 1930.
In short, an individual could receive a bottle of Scotch from an aunt living in Scotland at Christmas without clearing customs and paying duty.
Unfortunately, that accommodation became a loophole, then expanded to a loophole-based model for ecommerce giants and mass marketers.
Parkdale’s Anderson “Andy” Warlick at the podium during a press conference with Congresswoman Linda Sanchez (D-Calif.) who introduced the de minimis legisla-tion that NCTO supports.
De Minimis Impact
U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) has a history of concern with de minimis shipments. “Both the volume and combined worth of low-value, or de minimis, shipments to the United States have risen significantly over the past ten years,” said then Secretary of Homeland Security Alejandro N. Mayorkas in a January 2025 press release. “The exemption of these goods from duties or taxes has under-mined American businesses and workers and flooded our ports of entry with foreign-made products, making CBP’s vital work screening these goods for security risks more difficult. The actions announced today to tighten this exemption will strengthen America’s economic and national security.”
The CBP press release also noted: “Over the last 10 years, the number of shipments entering the United States claiming the de minimis administrative exemption increased by more than 600 percent from approximately 139 million a year in Fiscal Year (FY) 2015, to over 1 billion a year by FY 2023. During Fiscal Year 2024, de minimis shipments rose once again to over 1.36 billion. This exponential increase has created challenges for CBP’s effective enforcement of U.S. trade laws, health and safety requirements, intellectual property rights, and consumer protection rules.”
Building A Coalition
An effective way for trade associations to successfully advocate is to band together with like-minded groups to amplify the message at hand and broaden its impact by raising awareness and motivating legislative change.
In March of 2024, “The Coalition to Close the De Minimis Loophole” was launched. NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas stated at the time: “De minimis is not just a textile issue — it’s an issue impacting us all — which is why this broad, diverse coalition has been formed to amplify our collective voices in the fight to get immediate, substantial and consequential change,” commending several congressional champions of closing the loophole, including then Congressman Earl Blumenauer [D-Ore.], Congressman Neal Dunn [R-Fla.], Congresswoman Rosa DeLauro [D-Conn.], and then Congressman Dan Bishop [R-N.C].
Glas added: “Closing this loop-hole will simultaneously assist law enforcement battle the deadly fentanyl and broader illicit drug crisis while also assisting U.S. businesses to operate on a more level playing field with competitors overseas. We urge others in Congress and the Administration to support the effort and immediately close de minimis.”
By broadening the scope of support and illuminating the loophole’s impact, some 29 interested associations and organizations are now behind the issue and advocating for reform.
Diverse groups including the American Federation of Labor and Congress of Industrial Organizations (AFL-CIO), National Association of Police Organizations, Families Against Fentanyl the Coalition for a Prosperous America, and even the United Steelworkers came together and made their voices heard.
A Significant Result
After much testimony and legislative processes, the most current activity on de minimis, as of TW’s press time, was House passage of a budget reconciliation package which includes a provision that would permanently end de minimis for commercial shipments from all countries by July 2027. The legislation next goes to the Senate, and NCTO and the coalition are pressing to keep the provision in the broader budget and tax bill.
Recently, U.S. Senators Sheldon Whitehouse (D-R.I.) and Lindsey Graham (R-S.C.) introduced another strong proposal, the Closing the De Minimis Loophole Act.
Glas commended the Senators “… for their leadership and support of this important bipartisan legislation that would codify and permanently end de minimis treatment for China immediately, while phasing out de minimis for all other countries after a four-month transition period. This bill, a companion to legislation in the House, is the strongest and most comprehensive legislative solution to closing the destructive de minimis loophole once and for all. … The legislation will help level the playing field for the domestic textile industry, which has lost 28 textile plants over the past 22 months. We strongly sup-port this legislation and look forward to working with Senators White-house and Graham to advance it.”
Prior to the introduction of the act, President Donald J. Trump signed an Executive Order eliminating duty-free de minimis treatment for low-value imports from China and Hong Kong. While that order currently stands, it is in limbo and caught up in court cases challenging President Trump’s executive order and authority to impose broad-based tariffs on countries.
It is important to note that this order targets de minimis packages from China and Hong Kong which are packages utilizing the $800 loop-hole most often.
NCTO staff and textile executives on Capitol Hill.
Trade Earthquake
At the 21st NCTO annual meeting held in Washington, Glas shared with the gathered attendees an account of the quick, effective engagement of the NCTO and key members to address a pending crisis that would cancel the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA) and, in her words, “lose half the industry overnight.”
Glas said: “There are certain industry leaders who are not in this room right now because they are writing a letter [to a Cabinet official who] asked our industry to write immediately to put on President Trump’s desk this afternoon.
“We had an urgent meeting with [the high-level administration official] this morning at 11 a.m. at the start of our annual meeting asking him to do everything possible to help our industry grow. Qualified trade, penalties to our Western Hemisphere are all on the line for our industry where we can literally lose 70 percent of our export market, which would hurt even our domestic manufacturers who have fully verticalized supply chain.
As she characterized the events, Glas said: “This is the velocity with which decision making is happening in Washington now. I urge all of you, if you don’t know your member of congress, make sure they get to know you, they come out to your plant. Congressman Hudson was in that meeting with us, from North Carolina, and it made all the difference.”
NCTO’s Kim Glas during NCTO’s annual meeting in Washington.
Glas also described a key meeting the prior day saying: “Yesterday, we had a meeting … and I’m sorry if I’m fired up, I’ve had 12 cups of coffee … but yesterday we were in the West Wing. And when you go to the West Wing, the aura of that just falls on you. It’s like no other place to have a meeting. You are sitting in the West Wing and the situation room is right down the hall … here we are.
“And people say we’re the little old textile industry. We’re not the little old textile industry, we’re the mighty textile industry and we deserve to be in the West Wing.
“I’m going to tell you those CEOs who were in that room carried the weight of all of you in this room, and the people not in this meeting today. It wasn’t about their individual company; it was about the textile team on the field and getting the yards we need to get a goal and to help prevent the worst losses imaginable.”
Situational awareness, being prepared for quick, effective engagement, and successfully making your associations’ case at a critical moment are all hallmarks of a trade association fulfilling its noteworthy role.
As Glas continued addressing industry leaders during the annual meeting, she said, “You’re carrying your team, meaning your workers at your facility, just as much as those CEOs were carrying the textile team, the entirety of it, in these meetings the last couple of days. So, in this period of time, we need to be more collaborative, more thoughtful, we need to let out our stress. We need to show appreciation for where we came from and where we are today.”
Regarding engagement Glas said, “It is the greatest honor for all of us to represent you. We are in this fight with you. But it takes all of us, including our CEO leaders. It’s one thing for me and others here on this stage to talk to congressional offices. It’s a totally different ball of wax because you are representing your facilities and are doing the work. You inspire us, and so I want to say my deep appreciation. And I also want to deeply thank the NCTO team. This has been an incredibly busy five years. This has been an incredibly busy five weeks!”
Results
As of TW’s press time, goods qualifying under the USMCA remain in force. USMCA-compliant imports from Mexico and Canada continue to enter the United States without tariffs, which is critical for the U.S. textile industry. Non-USMCA-compliant textiles from Mexico and Canada face a 25 percent tariff, incentivizing the use of U.S. manufactured components.
Regarding the Administration’s actions, Glas said: “The U.S. textile industry ships $12.3 billion, or 53 percent, of its total global textile exports to Mexico and Canada and those component materials often come back as finished products to the United States under the USMCA. It is by far the largest export region for American textile producers, representing $20 billion in two-way trade that spurs enormous textile investment and employment in the United States. Preserving duty free, qualified trade is absolutely critical to the U.S. textile industry and will provide incentives for more companies to onshore even greater production capacity, giving a boost to American textile manufacturers and their workers.”
A Trade Association In Action
Trade associations come in all shapes, sizes and flavors. But, in this moment, and with its long road to solve the de minimis loophole, the NCTO has largely fulfilled a note-worthy role in supporting the U.S. textile industry — its businesses and plants — through effective advocacy; providing a community and network; and presenting a unified, empowered group identity.
It bears repeating what Glas said. “We’re not the little old textile industry, we’re the mighty textile industry and we deserve to be in the West Wing.”