Founded in 1868 and published for more than 150 years, Textile World magazine has always had two directives: A focus on editorial content that informs and supports the U.S. textile industry; and to maintain a qualified audience of textile industry professionals that are attractive to those trying to reach key members of the U.S. textile community.
Over the years, editors have adapted the editorial focus to meet the changing needs and interests of a dynamic industry. From the early days of wool and cotton processing, content has shifted to include more nonwovens and technical textile topics.
In format, TW has had to adapt to changes in the overall publishing industry including the speed of news delivery and changes in reader preferences. From the days of solely printed magazines, buyer’s guides and directories, the dynamics of delivering content and reaching readers has changed. Today, TW is delivered in print and online. Additional content reaches more than 17,000 readers through the weekly e-newsletter, and the website attracts an average of 65,000 page views per month.
With changes in mind, editors of TW and its sister publication Textiles Panamericanos have been experimenting with the creation of a digital edition. There is nothing new about the digital rendering of a printed magazine. When the technology was first developed more than 20 years ago, the internet was just taking hold with low speeds and other barriers. There was also a strong demand for print in a time with no iPhones, iPads and few laptops. Over the course of the past 20 years, one might observe that all things internet are vastly different.
The turning point for a relook at digital edition technology came when Covid-19 struck. TW editors learned that some tradeshows were going to take a new approach to distributing magazines and discourage print in favor of digital editions to reduce point of contact exposures. This idea presented an opportunity to augment print rather than replace.
Both TW and Textiles Panamericanos have limited circulations, in publishing circles known as “qualified circulation.” In short, that means that the magazines are limited to certain readers based on qualifications such as geography or industry sector. TW rarely goes, with exceptions, to non-USMCA (NAFTA region) readers. Textiles Panamericanos is largely delivered to qualified readers in Mexico, Central and South America.
So, the opportunity is apparent — maintain the qualified print circulations and expand the readership through the digital edition to all readers in, and beyond, the qualified parameters.
The dynamics available in the new technology also add value. All advertising that appears in print will also be present in the digital edition with the ability to be linked for the reader’s convenience. For example, an event ad might have a link to register. Or in an article, a link may be included for a reference or a video.
The editorial team is at the beginning of exploring these new digital possibilities and hope they will enhance the editorial experience of the highly valued TW and Textiles Panamericanos audiences of textile industry professionals.
The Biden Administration recently named Jennifer Knight deputy assistant for Textiles, Consumer Goods And Materials at the U.S. Department of Commerce (DOC). She will oversee the Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA), the Office of Materials Industries and the Office of Consumer Goods within the International Trade Administration’s Industry and Analysis unit.
The Washington-based National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) was quick to congratulate Knight, praising the administration for its choice.
“Jennifer’s extensive and successful career in U.S. textile manufacturing, as well as her experience in setting up international operations in regions such as Central America, is an enormous asset as she takes on this critical role,” stated Kim Glas, NCTO’s president and CEO.
“As onshoring and nearshoring efforts gain momentum amidst the global supply chain crisis, Jennifer’s appointment could not have come at a more pivotal time. We couldn’t be more delighted with her appointment and strong familiarity with our sector and beyond. Jennifer will be a strong advocate for American workers and industries, and we look forward to working with her on the U.S. textile industry’s top priorities
in the months and years ahead.”
Mount Vernon Mills, Mauldin, S.C., has announced plans to purchase a yarn spinning and weaving facility in Rockingham, N.C., from Wade Manufacturing Co., Wadesboro, N.C. No other Wade Manufacturing assets are part of the deal. Mount Vernon Mills will retain substantially all of the Rockingham facility’s employees, possibly adding new jobs in the future. Financial terms were not disclosed, and the transaction is expected to close in early February.
To begin with, the business will manufacture open-end spun yarns and woven greige goods for Mount Vernon Mills’ flame resistant products.
“The Rockingham facility is a modern,cost-efficient operation with an experienced and stable workforce, making it a great fit as we increase the amount of control that we have over our yarn supply, weaving operations and overall costs,” said Bill Duncan, CEO, Mount Vernon Mills. “We are also proud to expand our footprint in the U.S. and build upon our made in America commitment and heritage.
Polyester staple fiber manufacturer Fiber Industries LLC has announced plans to invest $30 million to expand its operation in Darlington, S.C. The investment includes increased capacity through upgrades and modernization of production lines such as the addition of state-of-the-art control systems, as well as increased warehouse space.
The expansion includes more than 50 new jobs and is expected to be complete by early 2023. The South Carolina Coordinating Council for Economic Development has approved job development credits, and also awarded a $300,000 Rural Infrastructure Fund grant to
Darlington County to assist with the cost of building improvements.
“We are excited about the continuing growth of our facility which is now even better positioned to serve the needs of the American textile industry,” said Fiber Industries CEO Don Bockoven. “We also are proud to be part of the wider effort to reshore jobs and bring textile manufacturing back to the USA. We thank the state of South Carolina as well
as Darlington County for their unwavering support.”
Unifi Inc., Greensboro, N.C., reports Walmart has purchased the equivalent of 1 billion post-consumer plastic bottles worth of REPREVE® recycled performance fibers. The calculations are based on a standard 16.9-ounce-bottle and how it translates to bottles per pound of recycled polyester (rPET); and tracked pounds of Repreve yarn, fiber and resin sold to Walmart suppliers for store programs. This achievement puts Walmart in the Billion Bottle Circle of Repreve’s Champions of Sustainability program.
“We’ve been using REPREVE’s recycled fibers for 10 years now, and this achievement is the result of not only our commitment to a more sustainable supply chain, but that of our customers, who have purchased products in our stores made with REPREVE,” said Deanah Baker, senior vice president, Merchant, Men’s, Kids, Footwear, Walmart U.S. “This is part of
Walmart’s larger goal to move toward a circular economy, where materials stay in use in a productive way that is better for the environment.”
“Due to Walmart’s scale and reach, commitment to sustainability, and ability to set goals and reach them, we are seeing a shining example of how large retailers can drive change and improve material usage for our earth,” said Unifi CEO Eddie Ingle.
Despite soaring raw materials prices, product demand from U.S. yarn spinners remains relatively strong. As has been the case since the economy began to reopen after the first COVID-19 wave, the primary issue has been timely product delivery as a result of a shortage of qualified labor and a muddled supply chain.
However, soaring prices for cotton and petroleum, as well as a general escalation in energy costs, continue to put pressure on margins for many spinners.
The per-pound price for cotton is at levels not seen for nearly a decade. As of the week ending February 10, spot quotations for the base quality of cotton (color 41, leaf 4, staple 34, mike 35-36 and 43-49, strength 27.0-28.9, and uniformity 81.0-81.9) in the seven designated markets measured by the U.S.Department of Agriculture averaged 122.37 cents per pound. This was slightly down from the previous week, but substantially up from the 81.08 cents reported during the corresponding period a year ago. The ICE March settlement price ended the week at 125.66 cents.
Before the recent surge in prices, the last time cotton exceeded $1.20 per pound was in the first half of 2011. In 2010, cotton exceeded $2.00 per pound for a short period of time.
For petroleum, the crude oil price per barrel was just shy of $94.00 on February 14. This compares to just $20.67 as recently as August 2020.
“Margins throughout the yarn industry have always been on the thin side,” said a research analyst. “The escalating costs across the board put tremendous pressure on spinners. Their customers are facing pricing and sales pressures of their own, so they often push back on large price increases. So, the spinners are caught in the middle. They have to be more efficient and effective. They need to turn product around quickly. And they need to get product to customers as promised — a much more difficult proposition today when the supply chain is still somewhat scrambled.”
COMPETES Act Passes House, But Faces Senate Resistance
The U.S. House of Representatives in late January passed the America COMPETES Act, a legislative package that will help close the de minimis loophole on duty-free imports from China and also renew the Miscellaneous Tariff Bill (MTB), both important provisions to U.S. textile manufacturers, according the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO).
Another important provision in the legislation, NCTO says, is that it renews the MTB for two years, which would extend limited tariff relief on a range of manufacturing inputs used by U.S. textile producers.
“We commend the House for passing this sweeping legislation, which contains several critical trade provisions beneficial to American manufacturers,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “This legislation contains a provision that would effectively prohibit China from exploiting the Section 321 de minimis mechanism in U.S. trade law, a win for U.S. textile producers and workers.”
Despite the action in the House, the act faces some stiff opposition in the Senate. The next step is to reconcile the bill with its Senate sibling, the U.S. Innovation and Competition Act of 2021, which was passed in June with the support of 19 Republicans. But those same GOP senators say changes will have to be made to the House bill if there is any chance of passage in the Senate.
A number of Republican senators say the House strayed from the bipartisan language of the Senate bill. “Throughout our nation’s history, Republicans and Democrats have worked together on critical national security issues,” said Senator Todd Young (R-Ind.) “In that tradition, last year the Senate followed regular order and an open process to pass the U.S. Innovation and Competition Act (USICA) with strong bipartisan support. I am disappointed that the House did not follow a similar process. To outgrow, out-innovate, and out-compete China, we need to work together and take the fight to the Chinese Communist Party.
“As we head to a conference process, my hope is that the final legislation will reflect the Senate bill and give House Republicans a much better option to support. The Senate-passed bill focuses on directly confronting China, and getting legislation like USICA across the finish line will ensure the United States leads the world into the future,” Senator Young said.
How Uster is meeting multiple global challenges to serve growing demand
TW Special Report
The order situation may be excellent for many companies, but there is still no talk of a boom as the business environment is extremely challenging. In this interview, Sivakumar Narayanan, executive vice president and head of Business Development at Switzerland-based Uster Technologies AG, comments on the current economic situation. He explains the problems and their impact, setting out Uster’s commitment to meeting the challenges while giving customers the best possible service.
Textile World: The vast majority of companies in the Swiss mechanical, electrical and metal industries benefited from the strong recovery in the global economy in the first nine months of 2021, according to Swissmem, the representative trade body. And entrepreneurs in the sector continue to take a fundamentally positive view of the outlook for the year ahead. How is Uster doing?
Sivakumar Narayanan: Very well. For Uster Technologies, 2021 has been the best year for several years in terms of order intake. We believe this reflects our strong relationships with customers, who appreciate our ongoing efforts to support them with continuous innovations, including our digital offerings such as Uster Quality Expert.
TW: A number of challenges have emerged globally with the positive order situation. Increasing inflation, raw material and energy costs, supply shortages, transport costs, currency instability, the risk of trade conflicts and the continuing unpredictable pandemic developments all create a difficult business environment.
Narayanan: I agree, and I see those factors as having a negative impact on margins. There is still a high level of uncertainty, so we have to remain very agile and dynamic to manage the situation day by day, to ensure we offer the best possible support, as well as value-enhancing products and solutions. We share the concerns of our customers that a worst-case scenario for textile producers could see these factors affecting the current strong consumer demand. A situation where textile mills were not able to invest in innovations and digitization would be bad news for the whole value chain, including Uster.
TW: What is the biggest challenge currently for Uster?
Narayanan: Currently our major challenge is satisfying all our customers with regards to yarn clearer deliveries. We have been fortunate in that customers really liked the latest innovation, and this resulted in aggregated short-term demand from all the machine manufacturers reaching a peak that we have never seen in recent years. The effect was that our inventory was rapidly consumed, including that in the pipeline.
Unfortunately, at the same time, the sharp increase in semiconductor shortages led to a total lack of visibility of component availability — both the required quantities and time scales — as well as a steep escalation in costs. To be specific, we are suffering from a difficult situation with the advanced chips built into our yarn clearers.
Perhaps our customers will understand it when I make this comparison. Imagine yarn buyers waiting at your door for their large orders and deliveries, while you are trying to obtain the raw material. And there is no guarantee what you will get, in what quantities, or when and under what conditions, as your whole supply chain is facing shortages and lacking order confirmations or reliable commitments. That’s the level of pressure — and uncertainty — we are going through now.
We also currently have a high demand for laboratory instruments, as well as fiber cleaning, fabric inspection and quality management systems. Consequently, lead times have partially increased, but in general, production and delivery of these items have been impacted to a lesser degree, and we have so far been able to meet most of the delivery commitments.
Uster headquarters in Uster, Switzerland
TW: Do you expect the situation to improve?
Narayanan: Unfortunately, there is no easy answer to that. It is a similarly challenging situation for most high-tech companies including phone manufacturers and car producers, for example. They have all been seriously affected and are constantly trying to find components from key manufacturers. Therefore, we expect shortages to remain for the next several months, affecting our abilities to deliver.
TW: How do you plan to deal with the continued shortages?
Narayanan: Firstly, I’d like to emphasize that Uster is mobilizing all resources and networks to meet delivery commitments. We are working on several fronts in parallel — redesigning where possible, extending sourcing channels and negotiating with key suppliers. We are also looking into the future and taking risk mitigation measures.
Despite the difficult situation, Uster never accepts compromises in product quality. Our motto remains “Think Quality.” For example, we have scaled up testing dramatically to screen material procured through alternative channels. We have had a reasonable level of success in this, thanks to our hard-working teams and partners. But there is still a long way to go.
Secondly, we sincerely apologize to our customers. We are aware how badly customers are affected due to the longer waiting times. I can only ask for their trust and understanding and assure them that Uster, at all levels, is working like never before to match expectations and to find solutions. The good news is that the impact is mostly limited to the yarn clearers, due to the unprecedented high volume of demand, but of course we also understand that, of all things, yarn clearers are among the most essential parts.
TW: Of course, yarn clearers are an important element of quality control in spinning but they also are a further supporting means of controlling yarn production.
Narayanan: Uster yarn clearers in a modern spinning mill play a much more important role than simply clearing yarn on the winders. The data gained by the clearers are combined in Quality Expert with data from other instruments — and sophisticated automated analysis drives efficiency in yarn production and more.
TW: So, what do you wish for in 2022?
Narayanan: Frankly, providing more relief to our customers is what really matters for us, and would make us happy in the coming year. We hope to see the back of this semiconductor and logistic crisis in 2022 and get back to normal life. We hope at the same time that the
textile industry and all our customers continue to thrive in 2022 and beyond, and wish them the best for their families and society.
INDA’s IDEA® and FiltXPO™ trade shows are collocating in Miami Beach for a value-added, in-person experience.
TW Special Report
The Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry’s (INDA’s) IDEA® show is heading to Miami for the 21st anniversary of the nonwovens and engineered fabrics event. This edition will be collocated with the second edition of the Cary, N.C.-based association’s FiltXPO™ filtration and separation show. Both events will take place at the Miami Beach Convention Center (MBCC) in Miami Beach, Fla., March 28-31, 2022.
INDA is excited to combine the two events into one enhanced experience — a decision that was made in part to avoid a crowded show calendar late in 2021, but also adds value for both exhibiting companies and attendees.
IDEA 2019, held during the INDA’s 50th anniversary year, was the largest IDEA show in the event’s history. The 2019 edition attracted 509 exhibiting companies and more than 6,500 visitors from more than 75 countries at IDEA. Visitors came from all sectors of the market including wipes, apparel, geosynthetics, absorbent hygiene, transportation, home and office furnishings, building construction, filtration, and medical and surgical, among other sectors. Job titles run the gamut from senior leadership to research and development to purchasing.
The association is expecting similar exhibitor and visitor numbers in March as the industry has an opportunity to reunite in person. “We are very excited about being face-to-face again!” said INDA President David Rousse. “Our industry needs face-to-face interaction to build trust. This event provides that forum. As we emerge from the pandemic, our members and the entire industry realize the power of gathering in-person at live expositions and conferences like IDEA.”
IDEA 2022 kicks off with a welcome reception to be held on the outdoor terrace of the Miami Beach Convention Center, Monday, March 28, from 8 p.m. to 10 p.m.
The exhibit floor is open Tuesday and Wednesday from 10:30 a.m. until 6 p.m. and on Thursday from 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Educational Opportunities
The 2002 IDEA conference will focus on “The World View of Nonwovens.” Each morning, conference sessions presented by industry experts will look at how each global region’s nonwovens industry has changed since the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic. Sessions will take place from 9 a.m. until 10:30 a.m. prior to the exhibit halls opening.
IDEA 22 also will feature a series of short-course training courses aimed to share essential information and key details with newcomers, as well as enhanced knowledge for those with two or more years of experience in the nonwovens industry.
Under the header, “Essentials of Nonwovens” the six training courses focus on absorbent hygiene cores, making nonwovens, industrial wipes, consumer wet wipes and patent searching.
The courses are taught by James “Jim” Robinson, principal with Absorbent Hygiene Insights LLC, Dr. Jim Loftus, principal with Loftus Technical Consulting LLC, and INDA’s own director of Education and Technical Affairs, Chris Plotz.
Attendees register for courses individually and may choose all courses or just one depending on budget and learning needs.
IDEA® Achievement Awards
Presented by INDA in partnership with Nonwovens Industry magazine, the IDEA Achievement Awards are handed out every three years in conjunction with IDEA.
The awards recognize leading companies, individuals and new products in the global nonwovens and engineered fabrics industry who have contributed to the industry since the last IDEA show, so in this case, since 2019. The following five awards will be presented:
IDEA Equipment Achievement Award;
IDEA Raw Material Achievement Award;
IDEA Short-Life Product Achievement Award;
IDEA Long-Life Product Achievement Award;
IDEA Sustainability Advancement Award; and
IDEA Nonwoven Product Achievement Award.
Three finalists were selected in each category by INDA’s Technical Advisory Board. Winners are determined by an online vote on the Nonwovens Industry website, and awards will be presented by INDA’s Rousse and Rodman Media Corp. Owner and President Rod Zilenziger on Wednesday morning, March 30, after the first conference presentation.
FiltXPO Details
FiltXPO is INDA’s new filtration and separation event first held in Chicago in February 2020. FiltXPO features an exhibit floor, filter media training course and trend presentations, as well as five interactive panel discussions on indoor air quality, sustainability, clean water, pandemics and filter standards.
“With COVID-19, “filtration has become mainstream,” says Mike Clark, divisional president, Filtration Solutions, Hollingsworth & Vose Co. “This new public awareness will likely have a profound and lasting impact on the industry. The filtration industry continues to be on the ‘front line’ providing critical personal protective equipment (PPE) and IAQ (indoor air quality) to minimize the spread of the virus, along with advanced filtration solutions for medical equipment and hospitals, and the biopharma production processes used to develop and produce the vaccines at tremendous scale.”
Health And Safety Protocols
INDA reports it is committed to providing a safe and healthy environment for all attendees. Precautions, including social distancing, mask wearing, personal hygiene and sanitation, and self-monitoring and self-reporting will be enforced during the event inline with current guidance provided by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control; and any federal, state or Miami Beach health authorities as well as MBCC rules. IDEA and FiltXPO attendees can check the event websites for safety protocols and mask/vaccine requirements.
Change For Future Show Schedules
Traditionally, IDEA has occurred on a triennial schedule. However, INDA recently made the announcement that the show will move to a biennial schedule beginning in 2024. The next show will take place April 23-25, 2024.
After the 2022 collocated event, FiltXPO will return to its 18-month schedule and will next take place October 10-12, 2023, at Navy Pier, Chicago, Ill.
“Establishing this new timing for IDEA® and returning FiltXPO™ to its original cycle aligns with our industry’s needs to continue the growth of the nonwovens industry and establish its global leadership and versatility in delivering essential, environmentally-responsible materials and products,” Rousse said. “With a more frequent IDEA® cycle, INDA will be better positioned to overcome business challenges and to support our members at the highest level.”
IDEA cannot wait to host a “real live meeting of the minds” this March in Miami Beach where attendees can see, touch and feel the latest innovations available in the nonwovens and engineered fabrics sector.
For more information about IDEA® and FiltXPO™ and to register, visit ideashow.org. and filtXPO.com.
Students at the East Falls Campus of Thomas Jefferson University
Part one in a two-part feature on textile education focuses on college and university offerings.
By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor
S
ome 20 years ago, Textile World published an article about textile education offerings in the United States (See “Making the Grade,” TW, January 2002). Ironically, or maybe not, many of the industry specific comments contained in the article remain entirely viable if not prophetic in 2022. Some of the comments included:
“Over the last 20-plus years, the U.S. textile industry has shifted and been altered dramatically, yet the need for qualified, well-educated individuals to assume leadership roles remains constant.”
“With the growing prevalence of niche markets and specialized products in the U.S. textile industry, colleges and universities are offering more diverse programs in order to meet the needs of the industry and provide more opportunity for graduates.”
“A lingering question in the minds of many prospective students concerns the wisdom of entering an industry many consider to be declining?” The response? “There will always be a textile industry in the United States! No doubt it has changed over the years and will evolve even more in the years to come. Textile management, marketing, chemistry and engineering skills are vital today. I would heartily encourage anyone considering a textile education to pursue it. There is still a lot of opportunity out there!”
Words quoted more than 20 years ago, but each still resoundingly rings true in today’s textile arena.
According to David Hinks, dean of the Wilson College of Textiles at North Carolina State University (NC State), Raleigh, N.C.: “Significant changes in the textile industry in the 1980s and ‘90s with a collective move to producing textiles offshore resulted in closing down many textile mills in the U.S. and intensified the shift towards a negative opinion of the textile industry as a whole. This had a direct effect on the elimination of schools of textiles at colleges and universities and a change in programs specific to textiles being merged into materials sciences programs. As other universities moved away from textiles, it created a challenge, but it also created opportunities for NC State. We did the opposite and doubled down on maintaining the textiles name in our Wilson College of Textiles, textile programs and in our focus on the textile industry.”
Today, NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles remains the largest school focused on textiles in the United States and offers the most comprehensive program offerings devoted to textiles and the textile industry. According to Dean Hinks, “Before the shift, there was a healthy collaboration between traditional textile schools like Clemson, Georgia Tech, Philadelphia Textile, NC State and others. This had become a little eco-system that raised everyone up through a healthy competition for students and also occasional joint programs.”
Today, some of the other textiles schools mentioned by Dean Hinks are still offering textile programs in one form or another, but like the industry it supports, there have been many changes.
“While textile manufacturing at large was exported out of the U.S., you have to understand that the design, engineering and development functions never left. These functions are still thriving in the U.S. and manufacturing is returning,” noted Mike Leonard, academic dean, School of Design and Engineering in the Kanbar College of Design, Engineering and Commerce at Thomas Jefferson University, Philadelphia. Philadelphia University, formerly known as Philadelphia Textile, merged with Jefferson University in 2017, however, textiles continue to be an integral part of its academic offerings. “Yes, textile classes are smaller than decades ago, but they still provide excellent training grounds for addressing today’s textile endeavors that continue to be more complex, involved and engaging,” Dean Leonard said.
Second Verse, Same As The First
While not much has changed, seemingly everything has changed in today’s textile industry. As of this writing, the industry is dealing with the ongoing global pandemic, labor shortages, supply chain concerns, off shoring and reshoring, sustainability efforts, Industry 4.0 adoption, technological advancements, and a broadly expanding list of unique applications. This is not to mention the never-ending battle to reverse the textile industry’s perpetually dismal and negative image.
“In reality, the textile industry continues to be alive and well, and all that textiles do for us remains incredibly important and ever expanding,” said Dean Leonard. “Upon becoming Dean, I made everyone promise to ‘stop talking about textiles in the past tense!’ We need to be positive and looking forward. The main thing we can do for textiles, including for our current and prospective students, is be able to describe a future, a real future for the textile industry, not just give up and say it doesn’t exist anymore.”
Dean Hinks offered a similar view: “The prevailing images that the textile industry has left and all that remains are rusted out buildings and hazardous sites or that its merely not exciting or ‘techy’ enough to garner the interest of younger generations is just simply not true. I always enjoy seeing people’s faces when they come to our facilities for a tour and see all that we’re involved in and where our students end up in industry. They had a vision in their mind that predictably isn’t our reality.”
Many in the industry agree that the timing is right for the industry to mount a collective effort to effectively rebrand textiles, which if presented accurately, would only help in attracting new blood to textiles.
“We find many young people seem to have a bad taste for textiles due to the old-world exposure and faded beliefs originating from adults in their lives,” said Jasmine Cox, director of Textile Technology Programs and Business Innovation at Gaston College’s Textile Technology Center, Belmont, N.C. “There really needs to be more exposure through a positive industry-led effort to reach out to students and young people in general in order to erase these old perceptions and reintroduce today’s textile industry.”
“We need a collective effort throughout the industry to come together to show today’s amazing world of textiles,” Hinks said. “It’s incumbent on us to educate our society on the whole world of textiles, not just the clothing portion, and how textiles as a whole continue to improve the quality of our lives and livelihood.”
A student performing microscopic analysis at Gaston College’s Textile Technology Center
New Blood
Individual and collective programs are being developed and put into motion that, to a baseball fan, sound very similar to creating a “farm system” for identifying and growing the textile industry’s talent pool. The Textile Technology Center at Gaston College recently introduced its Textile Academy (See “Breaking New Grounds,” TW November/December 2021) offering a variety of education options in order to “cultivate highly skilled workers of all levels for local textile industry employers.”
“The Textile Academy is a culmination of our efforts to meet the local textile industry’s needs and fill a perceived void based on the feedback received from different textile industry avenues,” Cox offered. “A textile education today really depends on the individual’s interests and goals. Most universities only offer four-year or higher degreed programs that may not be right for many individuals. It’s great to have university graduates go into staff positions, but you still need training for workers, technicians, shift managers, and others who may only really need a couple of days to get familiar with textiles. Or perhaps an option for someone just looking to learn more about textiles to get started, who might then entertain a more in-depth program, possibly leading to a four-year program.”
The Textile Academy is a function of the continuing education department at Gaston College. It has established several program offerings akin to attending a trade school, and accredited textiles specific courses that can lead to a two-year associates degree. Gaston College and the Catawba Valley Community College (CVCC) recently announced a “bilateral 2+2 articulation agreement” with NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles. This agreement provides the opportunity for students who graduate from the Textile Technology Degree program with a two-year associates textiles degree — initially in Textile Technology or Textile Management tracks — and who meet eligibility requirements, to possibly transfer those credits into a Bachelor of Science in Textile Technology degree program at NC State. “We’re finding that not everyone is ready for a four-year college commitment, so we are developing these programs as a way to provide an easier entry into academics through local colleges in the form of training classes, certificate courses and associates degrees,” Dean Hinks noted. “Community colleges generally have a high percentage of first-generation attendees and we need to gain and provide access to these individuals. Our intention is to start these partnerships with Gaston and CVCC and learn as we further develop the program. Then there’s no reason not to take a similar approach with other community colleges, continue to grow the program offerings, and subsequently the talent supply. The industry’s talent pool needs to become more diverse in terms of heritage, income levels, and ethnicity, and this program will indeed help.”
This collective effort is geared towards supporting the rural North Carolina textile industry base where according to Dean Hinks, a recent study indicated that within a three-hour drive of Raleigh, one can encounter approximately 50 percent of the U.S. textiles industry. “We really need to put ourselves in a position to supply talent to fill the needs of the textile industry at all levels. Through this program, we can incorporate community college efforts to supply ground level needs as well as potentially feeding those interested into NC State.”
A senior design team from NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles at work on a project.
Soft Goods Versus Hard Goods Mentality
Paul Latten, director of Research and Development at Southeast Nonwovens and a graduate of NC State with a Bachelor of Science degree in Textile Engineering and Science, said: “My textile degree has proven to be useful, valuable and made it easier to relate to both soft and hard goods throughout my career. Soft goods offer a unique value proposition that you need to understand from the onset. For example, how does a polymer and/or fiber behave individually and also in a fabric structure. Then, how does each influence the intended application. This adds a complexity that isn’t necessarily apparent when dealing with hard goods. In fact, one could argue that it’s easier for someone educated in soft goods to transition into hard goods than vice versa. Soft goods just necessitate a different way of thinking.”
Another consideration, often overlooked, is that a textile education tends to be a more effective way to grasp and understand the many layers intrinsic to textile technologies, related terms and nuances specific to the soft goods industry. There is a unique, if subtle, difference in philosophies associated with soft goods compared to that of hard goods such as steel, wood or concrete. According to Dr. Brian George, director of Engineering Programs at Thomas Jefferson University: “We’ve noticed that traditional mechanical engineers transitioning into textiles do tend to have troubles initially. They’re generally amazed by how many variabilities must be considered that factor into textile product decisions. There can be so many different options or paths available to make a textile perform a specific way, which differs greatly from common hard goods perspectives. It’s just a different way of thinking.”
To be clear, having a textile education is not a mandatory requirement for someone to work in the textile industry. All are certainly welcomed and there are countless examples of men and women working throughout the textile industry who did not have a prior formal textile education when hired. Many textile companies historically have simply taken it upon themselves to teach their new hires what it believes they need to know about textiles to do their jobs. However, a textile education does make the indoctrination and assimilation period for new hires shorter and more efficient. The 2002 TW education article noted that, “The general estimate is that it takes roughly two years to bring a generic major up to the same use level as an entering textile major at a support cost to the hiring company of approximately $200,000 per year.”
In And Out Of Sorts
As the textile industry has shifted and evolved over the past few decades — from an industry focused on traditional textiles to one manufacturing high-performance products using increasingly intelligent machinery — so too has the approach taken by institutions of higher learning in redefining the make-up and options available for education. As mentioned by Dean Hinks, NC State has continued to maintain its focus on textiles while other traditional textile schools have incorporated their textile offerings into materials-, science- or fashion-specific curriculums. However, textiles can still be prevalent in these programs depending on the student’s course of study. “In the 90s and 2000s, we were finding that students and colleagues who had a textile engineering degree were having trouble breaking out of textiles and transitioning to, or being accepted in, other industries because of the potentially negative connotations associated with textiles, especially as engineering tools,” Dr. George said. “We heard things like ‘what do they learn about socks or towels that is relevant to our industry?’ So, we reasoned that a more general engineering degree with a concentration in textiles, for example, would allow them to break out into other industries without the textile stigma.”
Along with Jefferson, Auburn University, Clemson University and the Georgia Institute of Technology have transitioned their textile programs into their College of Engineering. For example, Jefferson currently offers a B.S. degree in Engineering with a concentration in Textile Sciences and a B.S. in Textile Product Sciences. Jefferson also offers a Master’s in Textile Technology or a Master’s of Science in Engineering with a textile engineering concentration. And for anyone interested in continuing, Jefferson also offers a doctorate in Textile Engineering and Sciences. Texas Tech University’s textile programs are now part of the Department of Human Sciences.
There are, however, a growing number of colleges and universities that offer a variety of textile- and/or fashion-related programs (see Table 1), and interest in textiles is continuing to grow. “There does seem to be a change in perspectives about textiles as people start learning and seeing more about how textiles can be used,” said Dr. George. “Interest in textiles as an engineering and design medium is certainly growing and we’re finding that there are more jobs than applicants. People with textiles knowledge can essentially pick and choose where they want to go and what industry they want to be a part of. That wasn’t the case 20 years ago.”
Emphasis On Technology
“Textiles are definitely complex; and delightfully so,” advised Dean Leonard. “Because of this inherent complexity, we have altered our course offerings to be more inclusive in nature. We want our designers better versed in the technical details of textiles; and conversely, we want our technology and engineering students to be more aware of the design aspects of textiles to better understand the edges of each discipline.” A bigger emphasis on technology across the board helps instill this sentiment at most all universities. Design technologies and patterning software continue to become more complex for both knitting and weaving machines as the designs and applications also become more complicated in fashioning, and 3D knitting and jacquard weaving.
Priya Jyotishi, a graduate of Drexel University with a Masters in Science, Fashion Design and Research, who now works as a textile technologist for Propel LLC, Pawtucket, R.I., actually sought out the technical component when evaluating her school and program options. “The design execution is becoming more technical in nature,” Jyotishi said. “So, having that exposure from my classwork and labs has been very helpful in my current work.”
This technical growth is complicated by the fact that there isn’t a consistency to the design programs or interfaces used by different machine manufacturers. Programs can literally change from year-to-year and even model-to-model. A ground level exposure in school to machine design program fundamentals has proven to be very helpful to designers and engineers alike.
Dean Mike Leonard (third from left, wearing tie), academic dean, School of Design and Engineering, Thomas Jefferson University, sitting in with students during a presentation.
Collaboration Is Key
Collaboration is also a common term used at the universities. “We teach collaboratively at Jefferson,” Dean Leonard said (See “A Study In Collaboration,” TW, September/October 2020). “Departments collaborate with other departments. Students collaborate with each other and with our professors. And in all aspects, we engage our alumni and continue to build our collaboration efforts with the textile industry. Our goal is to create a hybrid student through collaboration. This allows them to address problem solving effectively from all sides and make them more grounded in what they do. You really can’t design or engineer things from only one perspective each time.”
At Gaston College’s Textile Academy, a similar theme rings true. “We’re hoping to rebuild the bridge between industry, both locally and nationally, and education through our collaboration efforts,” Cox said. “The textile industry in the U.S. continues to grow and change and we need to be able to support it throughout all levels.”
As the textile industry becomes more global in scope and nature, many of the universities also are extending their collaboration efforts globally by offering, projects with colleges and universities outside of the United States, international internships, and study abroad options. In most cases, these opportunities are geared specifically to the student’s interests.
Not to be outdone, NC State — with close to 1,000 students enrolled in undergraduate- and graduate-related programs as of Fall 2021, and countless numbers of alumni — is focusing its collaboration efforts on an even grander scale. “Taking a much broader world view helps our students to become more confident, more worldly and better prepared for what awaits them after their graduation,” Dean Hinks said. “We want to support the entire student, not just a part of them.” As a result, at NC State there has been an increase in study abroad options along with a heightened awareness of intern programs offered through local and international textile companies. To carry these efforts even further, the Wilson College of Textiles is preparing to launch “Wilson for Life,” a new directive intended to foster a lifelong relationship with the school. “We want earning that degree to be a mile marker and the beginning of a lifelong relationship that supports our graduates throughout the twists and turns of their career journey,” Dean Hinks said. “This program will include lifelong career support, increased community engagement and relationship building opportunities, and augment what has been done in the past only in a more formal manner. The cost of a four-year degree keeps increasing, and we need to demonstrate the real value of that degree is not just those four years, but much more.”
The Value Of A Textile Education
Textiles continues to offer a more unique value proposition, which really matters in today’s world. Today’s textile industry for a new hires can include most anything from polymer composition and additive chemistry to manufacturing, fashion, industrial and technical fabrics, or fiber reinforced composites. Given this and the fact that student placement rates are almost 100 percent, it’s fair to say a textile education can be an e-ticket ride to a rather interesting career and a wealth of opportunities!
Editor’s Note: Part two of this feature, to be published in an upcoming issue of Textile World, will look at continuing education and training courses offered by the industry’s various associations.
By James M. Borneman, Editor In Chief
