Recent innovations in the spinning sector focus on automation and process integration, higher efficiencies and better controls with remote access.

By Dr. Helmut H. Hergeth

“Cautiously moving forward” appears to be the overarching motto of the spinning sector at ITMA 2023 held recently in Milan, Italy. Of course there were some technical advances on display, but economically speaking, no new innovations that completely shake up existing business models. Some of the incremental investments1 of the 1980s are coming back to mind. Incremental investments allow textile manufacturers to utilize new or improved technologies without having to completely replace existing equipment. This conserves financial resources, which is relevant in uncertain economic times, as well as during times when technological directions are not yet clear. The theme of economic uncertainty was definitely visible and frequently mentioned in many conversations during ITMA.

Many machine manufacturers as well as their clients still mentioned “surviving COVID” in the post-COVID times. Economic activity is still reduced, and survival is simply more important than innovation, or at least more imminent. For equipment producers, just like for their clients, raw material prices have been very volatile and considerably higher than five years ago2. These kinds of cost increases impact machine prices, thus changing the cost/benefit analysis for new equipment and new technologies. Similar price increases and volatilities have taken place in raw materials for yarn producers — in cotton and polyester2 prices, for example — making long-term decisions like the purchase of new spinning equipment extremely difficult.

Additionally, like for most other industries, a lot of technological innovation is happening in the integration, control and coordination of textile processes. This upgrade requires computing equipment and semiconductors — items that are still in supply chain recovery mode since 2018. Shortages in some cases lead to “allocation” of equipment to existing or strategic customers only, most definitely not a desirable situation for the industry.
Some themes do emerge in the technology directions despite this economic backdrop.

Process Integration

Most of the equipment manufacturers at ITMA showed very sophisticated programs that monitor, control, optimize, and integrate processes within and between plants. Cloud computing, remote access and control, and a plethora of data analyses was shown by most of the companies at ITMA. Software programs are key to efficient plant management, and exhibitors integrate maintenance and spare part businesses into their plant management toolboxes. While spare parts have always been an important business component, today these services are strongly promoted, showing how much more important they have become to the suppliers.

MyTrützschler — available from Germany-based Trützschler Group SE — for example, allows users to access to detailed plant information with live feeds from practically any-where. The MyWires functions help optimize card clothing management, whether the spinning mill conducts its own wire maintenance or utilizes the service provided by Trützschler. Technologically, this kind of real time data allows for optimized plant management, optimized equipment maintenance, and faster and better decision making. Economically, it also shows how much more integrated the supply chain on the textile equipment side is. Not only are the textile equipment manufacturers much more integrated in bale handling through spinning, but also any of the auxiliary suppliers— such as monitoring and maintenance, for example — are tied into the supply chain through acquisitions and strategic alliances.

In similar fashion, digital solutions offered by Italy-based Marzoli Machines Textile S.r.l. optimize the spinning process and monitor key performance indicators (KPIs) in real time. According to the company, implementing its predictive maintenance program analyses a large volume of company data against benchmark values, resulting in maintenance cost savings of up to 30 per-cent. Using the cloud based marketing resource management (MRM) soft-ware, problems can be analyzed remotely and energy consumption and efficiencies can be optimized.

Spinning Equipment Innovations

On the equipment side, Trützschler showed the TC 19i card at ITMA 2023, with the T-GO gap optimizer, which automatically fine-tunes the carding gap to compensate for changing temperatures and conditions during operation, leading to higher production and better quality. The optical sensor of WASTECONTROL continuously monitors the waste quality at the licker-in and automatically optimizes the mote knife setting via the servo motor. With rising raw material costs, any raw material savings are an important cost factor, no matter what textile market is served. NEPCONTROL data is monitored and uploaded to the MyMill system, where any deviation in nep count can be analyzed and addressed at the machine level from anywhere in the world. The TC 30i card has been updated since Barcelona and shows an increased carding area — with approximately 1/3 more active flats plus a precarding and post-carding zone. While an increased carding surface is not a new idea or technology, the existing carding technology has certainly been improved, leading to higher production levels, better quality and more efficient waste management —including minimizing fiber waste and separating waste fibers to optimize the recovered value. Similar improvements can be seen in drafting — like the self-optimization of Trützschler’s TD 10 — leading to higher efficiencies, improved quality monitoring and better integration of mill management.

Switzerland-based Rieter showed very similar directions in its developments, with the C77 and C81 carding machines featuring an increased carding surface — the company reports the C81 sports the “largest active carding area” in the market — automatic Carding Gap Control and optimized fiber yield using its Trash Level Monitor. Improvements in its spinning machines also continue, for example in ring-spinning with the G38 and G37 models; rotor-spinning, like the fully automatic R70; or in compact spinning, like the K48. How-ever, the J70 for air-jet spinning was specifically highlighted at ITMA. With a roughly 25-percent higher production speed compared to ring spinning and unusually high flexibility offered via the VARIOlot option — up to two different lots per machine side — the J70 matches the ever-changing market demands for smaller lot sizes. Cost and flexibility remain relevant.

Marzoli showed the FTM320 roving frame with the central headstock in the middle of the machine. This layout not only simplifies managing the machine itself and optimizes automated transport of bobbins to the spinning machines, but it significantly reduces exchange and cleaning times by almost 30 percent, according to the company, thus increasing efficiency and reducing cost — specifically energy cost — which is of course an ongoing concern in the textile industry. The layout of the FTM320 also reduces space requirements, and while looking at productive area versus non-productive area is not always one of the most urgent decision criteria considered, in some cases, space becomes an absolute deal-breaker or deal-maker. Marzoli’s MDS2 spinning frame also offers improved efficiency and reduced energy consumption, inline with the concerns of the industry. Energy consumption, and specifically air consumption, also are the key improvements seen in Marzoli’s comber CMX, with increased productivity and up to 10 combing heads.

In addition to the high degree of automation within each of the machines, from self-correcting adjustments to automated and integrated maintenance, Marzoli also showed the integration between machines. Automated transport and coordination between combing, roving, and spinning are key elements in addressing concerns about labor availability and reliability.

An overarching theme for Rieter also was automation and integration. Its ROBOspin fully automated piecing robot now is also available for compact spinning machines. Improved control systems allow quality control going into and out of the machines, and Rieter helps mills with its Rieter Digital Spinning Suite to monitor, manage and optimize spinning mills remotely. Service, maintenance, and spare parts, as well as carding wire management are an essential part of the Rieter business model.

Saurer Intelligent Technology AG, Switzerland, also showed automation and process integration as a major theme. Like most equipment producers, it addresses automation as a managerial response to rising labor costs worldwide and independent of cost automation, which helps address reduced avail-ability of skilled labor in the industry. All equipment manufacturers mentioned training programs at ITMA —in person, online, or at the machines — as well as automation in order to address various labor issues — skill levels and ongoing training, availability and cost — that are an industry concern worldwide. Saurer offers training through the Saurer Academy. Additionally, automation and process integration can improve quality and efficiency by reducing human error. Saurer specifically showed the Autocard SC7 carding machine— which features automatic gap adjustment for recycling, and increased carding surface area for improved quality and production rates — and automation in automatic transportation or “linking” from one process to the next.

The ZI 72XL compact spinner, the Autoairo air spinning machine, the Autocoro 11 and BD8 with Twinsuction on both ends rotor spinning machines, and ZI 451 worsted com-pact-spinning machine were on dis-play, as well as twisters, cablers, and winders. Energy efficiency and reduction of energy consumption are an important topic in spinning, where energy cost often exceeds the cost of direct labor. Saurer addresses this through its Texparts product line, which introduced a smaller diameter spindle, Eshape, to reduce energy costs, among other variables.

Automation in process and product monitoring and inspection is of course a key component in any textile manufacturing setting, and Switzerland-based Uster Technologies AG showed the 360Q solution suite as a fully integrated system helping with data generation, analysis, and solutions for quality as well as cost management. This leader in textile testing and monitoring has integrated in-line monitoring at all levels with analysis and decision-making tools. Human error is essentially removed from the equation. The RSO3D, Uster Quantum, and Uster Sentinel are key elements in mill management that existing and new spinning mills need to remain competitive.

The Yarn Master PRISMA from Loepfe Brothers Ltd., Switzerland, offers superior clearing with its dual measurement system — infrared and mass sensors — thus improving quality while saving costs — two key business drivers in yarn production. Using an innovative Autostart feature, set-up times are drastically reduced, allowing for faster and less costly product changes, which is a key aspect of agile manufacturing. Integrating software enables a complete management system, and as additions to existing equipment Uster and Loepfe technologies have always been part of new and incremental investment strategies in the industry.

Italy-based Savio Macchine Tessili S.p.A. also showed trends towards more automation with its Proxima Smartconer automatic winder, for example; and increased flexibility in air-jet spinning with its Lybra Smart-spinner, which allows changing fiber blend ratios in the yarn from two slivers via computer (See “Just A Few Of The “Cool” Things On Display — The ITMA 2023 Edition,” TW, July/August 2023).

There was much anticipation surrounding Japan-based Toyota Industries Corp.’s Helix vortex spinning machine, but unfortunately the machine was not on display at ITMA. Only videos were available to customers. According to company associates, production speeds are in the 50,000 revolutions per minute range with very fast start-up speeds. This technology is something to look forward to seeing in person at ITMA 2027!

Murata Machinery Ltd. (Muratec), Japan, manufacturer of the Vortex spinning system, had only a small booth with videos and chose not to display any machines at ITMA.
France-based NSC/N. Schlumberger SAS showed similar directions of improvement — in automation, energy savings and process integration— for long-staple-fiber yarns.

Spain-based Spinhole® Consulting offers consultancy services to help spinning mills change the configuration of the drafting zone and yarn guides to create a double “multi” balloon, allowing increased production speeds, reduced energy consumption, and thus reduced costs— a true incremental investment as defined above.

Italy-based C.P.S.TEX S.r.l. with its Greenspin technology, offers similar retrofitting drafting systems for worsted and woolen ring spinning machines.

Also, in winding, companies such as Dietze+Schell Maschinenfabrik GmbH & Co. KG and Georg Sahm GmbH & Co. KG, both based in Germany illustrated the trend towards more automation, higher production, increased flexibility — like the Flexible Traverse option from Sahm — as well as remote support and service.

It should be noted that in addition to the traditional spinning machinery producers, there are equipment producers from India — Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd. (LMW®) for example — or China — such as Jingwei Textile Machinery Co. Ltd. — that offer a full range of equipment for spinning mills.

Going Green

All major manufacturers of spinning equipment showed not only how energy consumption has been reduced, but also how the technologies can contribute to a circular economy. Recycling has moved from an also mentioned ability to a separate business concept that warrants complete business segments within the companies with dedicated equipment from opening through spinning. At ITMA, manufacturers market dedicated product lines specifically for recycled materials — such as TRUECYCLED by Trützschler or the COM4 Recycling process by Rieter, for example — and with raw materials being the biggest cost factor in textile processing, recycling makes sense economically as well as environmentally. Being able to process obsolete products into raw materials is as essential in the circular economy as any other step within this circle.

All of the equipment manufacturers also describe reduced energy consumption in their products; this is of course an ongoing trend, and economically highly relevant as energy costs in spinning tend to be more relevant than labor costs. Managerially speaking, cost savings are always easy to justify, especially when these costs are getting more volatile. Additionally, reduced energy consumption results in a smaller carbon dioxide footprint, which is good for the environment and a company’s corporate social responsibility report. While these are all easy concepts to sell, they are not necessarily easy concepts to implement into the equipment, and tend to make equipment more complex and difficult to maintain. This is where remote training programs, and service and maintenance programs offered by the manufacturers become an integral part of the business models.

Conclusion

The world economy is still recovering, and supply chain issues — specifically in the electronics areas — impact spinning equipment like any other machinery. In terms of innovation, there is not a completely new mouse-trap, but the existing mousetraps are continuously improving — higher efficiencies, more automation and process integration, better controls, and remote access. Most equipment features self-correcting systems that ensure higher speeds, more flexibility, and better quality. Simultaneously, manufacturers are aligning with cultural trends toward sustainability by embracing energy efficiency and product lines for the circular economy.

References:

1. H. Hergeth, “Investitionsstrategien für Stagnierende Branchen“, in der Reihe Empirische Wirtschafts-forschung Bd. 1, Münster, 1986. Also, H. Hergeth, Incremental Investments and their Results in the Textile and Apparel Industries, Ars Textrina 26, 1996, pp. 65-79.
2. Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis, Commodity Prices for various products, https://fred.stlouisfed.org/.

Editor’s Note: Dr. Helmut H. Hergeth is an associate professor in the Wilson College of Textiles at North Carolina State University, Raleigh, N.C.

September/October 2023

Themes in knitting evident at ITMA 2023 include advanced materials, robotics and AI, as well as sustainable production.

By Dr. Andre West, Technical Editor

ITMA, a pivotal platform for engaging textile and apparel leaders and machine makers worldwide, gathered 110,000 international participants at its latest edition held in Milan, Italy. This nexus facilitates insights and alliances, extending to a critical component constantly growing and innovating, the knitting machine industry.

During ITMA 2023, with a focus on “Pivoting Towards Digital Trans-formation and Circularity,” four themes in knitting emerged:

1. Advanced materials with an eye on sustainability are fueling innovative technical textiles with multi faceted functionalities that span fashion, sports, architecture, defense and healthcare.
2. Robotics and artificial intelligence (AI) are fostering automation in knitted textiles while 3D digitization reshapes supply chains. Open AI’s early integration allows for retooling and efficiency that were not possible before, and autonomous machines have started to amplify their reach.
3. Remarkable advancements have propelled textile production, defied pandemic expectations and encouraged technology introspection.
4. Sustainable practices are integrating innovative materials and processes, aligning with ecological goals. Creating virtual garments using 3D technology is accelerating prototypes and cutting waste.

The article breaks the knitting industry into key machine markets — flat, shoe/socks, circular and warp knitting. It is impossible to cover every machinery manufacturer’s innovations, and the report focuses on what is new rather than what is best. Some of these machine innovations will prevail and be featured at the next ITMA four years from now as a standard component.

Flat Knitting Machines

Japan-based Shima Seiki Mfg. Ltd. showcased its innovation prowess at ITMA 2023, unveiling the newly branded R-Series — meaning Reborn. Moving away from the traditional green and blue knitting machines, the new line features nine grey flat knitting machines, including a cutting-edge prototype faster WHOLEGARMENT® machine. Hundreds of intricate fabric samples spanning fashion, sports, medical applications and more, were displayed on a bustling stand.

Shima Seiki embraced the traditional ethos of ITMA by introducing previously unveiled machinery while engaging clients to obtain feedback in this microfactory-oriented testing ground. The flagship WholeGarment knitting machines finally are part of the Shima Seiki ecosystem after more than 20 years of fine-tuning, streamlining planning, design and production. These machines enable agile sampling and custom knitwear crafting in limited quantities, enhancing efficiency and fit with the sustainable economy of far less waste with superior quality.

Shima Seiki revealed its fifth generation SWG-XR prototype knitting machine. This iteration showcases remarkable speed, quality, efficiency and dependability strides. An homage to the groundbreaking SWG-X, the pioneer four-needle bed device that birthed seamless, WholeGarment knitting, the SWG-XR introduces innovative attributes like a spring-based mobile sinker system, a compact carriage with four knitting systems and automated yarn carriers. These features boost productivity by more than 25 percent compared to the preceding MACH2 XS model. There were three prototype SWG-XR machines, each integrating new facets like needle defect detection, premium 18-gauge fabric knitting and automated yarn end finishing. SWG will now become a household name for knitwear manufacturers, just like the SEC and SES did in previous generations.

Not to be forgotten, Shima Seiki’s esteemed SES series was a pioneering machine in flat knitting, transforming garment creation with single garment, shaped piece innovation. Aiming to redefine the SES’s scope, the new prototype SES-R emerges, incorporating a novel sinker system for dimensional sinker patterns and short-row knitting paired with a pioneering transfer jack system. Enhanced productivity arises through automated yarn carriers, particularly intarsia, combined with loop pressers for inverse plating and inlay knitting. The exhibit showcased two SES-R prototypes, which emphasized the transfer jacks and highlighted the loop pressers.

In this author’s opinion, Dr. Shima’s legacy will always be innovative glove knitting technologies, which were showcased at ITMA in the SFG-R glove-knitting marvel. The machine boasts a new sinker system, belt-driven carriage and automated yarn carriers, which results in gloves that impeccably follow hand contours, enriching fit and design potential. The SPG-R pile glove knitting machine, a stalwart since 1979, also integrates a refreshed sinker system, belt-driven carriage and automated yarn carriers. This revitalization expands color choices, design possibilities, and market diversification into cozy gloves and mittens.

Furthermore, Shima Seiki is integrating its software and cloud presence wherever it can, giving its customers a genuinely virtual seam-less online package. The Apex4 series graphic design system has under-gone enhancements in knit programming, 3D capabilities, speed and user-friendliness. These augmentations — along with the cloud-based design system ApexFiz, digital yarn sourcing web service Yarnbank, and Shima’s Datamall digital content web service — enable users to procure valuable data for fashion planning, production, and sales; while Shima KnitManager functions as production management software. In addition, Shimanavi for training and the Shima HelpCenter all contribute to Shima Seiki’s one-stop shop for operations and support.

Germany-based Stoll — now also known as KARL MAYER STOLL Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH after the company became part of the Germany-based Karl Mayer Group— expanded the renowned adaptability of its ADF series and finds total expression in the ADF 530-32 ki FLEX E7.2, which pushes flexibility to unparalleled heights. This universal machine epitomizes diverse knitted outputs, enabling prompt adaptation to order shifts or emerging business opportunities. Automated needle bed gap adjustment harmonizes varied knitting methods while augmenting fabric thickness and quality. A live demonstration during ITMA 2023 showcased production data tracking, enhancing transparency in manufacturing and optimizing workflows. The autonomous insertion of NFC chips into fabric patterns, inscribed with unique data by an integrated apparatus, underscores that wearable monitoring of human biomarkers is not far behind.

The ADF 830-24 Ki W knit and wear offers an 84-inch-long bed with a weave-in device with new yarn carriers with exchangeable tips and conical inlet to simplify and speed up the threading process and thus reduce the setup times. Also, ergonomic solutions to streamline a knitter’s daily work, such as a mirror and lighting for the belt take-down and fabrics in the storage area, seem like simple ideas, but their addition increases ease of use.

In contrast, the ADF 530-32 ki BCW E20, an actual 20-gauge machine, emerged as an ultra-fine marvel, crafting delicate flat-knitted textiles adorned with intricate patterns, promising innovation in flat knitting. In Milan, T-shirts exemplified aesthetics and sustainability. The machine is backed by a compact design, which reduces the ADF’s footprint by 7 percent and allows for expanded capabilities.

Looking to the future, Stoll unveiled the prototype ADF 530-16/4 ki WWK E7.2 — which merges weft knitting, warp knitting and weaving techniques — to yield versatile fabric structures with sectoral enhancements. Innovative yarn guides with 3D mobility underpin this advancement. This machine can be seen as the first significant development that has happened since the purchase of Stoll by Karl Mayer, a leader in warp knitting.

Stoll also offers its Knitelligence® software solutions, which encompasses design systems, automated and optimized production, and intellectual property protection products. Stoll PPS is a digital tool for flat knitting that contains production planning and manufacturing execution system (MES) functions. Real-time updates on pivotal production events bolster adaptability, while integration with enterprise resource planning (ERP) systems aids automation and remote maintenance. PPS’s display at the trade event highlighted its versatility and bottleneck detection capability. The group of Knitelligence products help facilitate creativity, streamline range development and curtail design-to-market timelines.
Italy-based Mandarin Knitting Technology S.r.l. unveiled an array of advanced computerized flat knit-ting machines, featuring its unique “designed in Italy, made in China” technology. Amidst the established machine builders, the company’s innovation garnered significant attention during ITMA 2023.

Founded in 2011 in Conegliano, Mandarin Knitting Technology is situated in northeast Italy’s Veneto region — an area renowned for knitwear production by giants like Benetton and Stefanel. Its ITMA exhibition highlight was the F20 101 TD in 1.5 gauge — a remarkable machine. Presented with a 1.5-gauge needle fitted with an enlarged hook, the machine can be knitted at a half gauge, effectively achieving a gauge of 0.75. Mandarin affirmed this to be the world’s coarsest flat knitting gauge. Notably, a 0.75-gauge F20 101 TD machine has found application in crafting carpets by an Italian rug manufacturer. This machine could be used in the bustling home furnishing market.

Switzerland-based Steiger Participation SA unveiled the four needlebed KS3-60MC-II, which marked a pivotal departure from its China-based parent company Ningbo Cixing Co. Ltd.’s prototype showcased in past textile machinery exhibitions. This momentous step integrates the Steiger brand into the Cixing Group’s flat knitting machines produced in China, shifting from earlier attempts to establish the Cixing identity beyond Chinese borders.

The Steiger KS3-60MC-II, presented as an 18-gauge model at ITMA 2023, was more than a prototype, but still awaits finalization before its market debut. This machine’s imminent market entry is anticipated at the threshold of the cutting-edge realm of four-needlebed technology. Steiger Sales Manager Gianni Zamarco indicated that meticulous testing involving Steiger’s clientele will precede its official release. Bearing a single head and three-system configuration, the KS3-60MC-II boasts a substantial 60-inch needle bed, attaining speeds of up to 1.6 meters per second. Standard models encompass 16 motorized yarn carriers. The takedown mechanism involves a flexible device, comb, and auxiliary roller apparatus complete with segmented adjustments. Steiger also unveiled a novel 3-gauge Antares 2.185 flat knitting machine. This distinct Swiss creation features 24 motorized yarn carriers, which caters to crafting coarse gauge intarsia sweater panels.

Shoe Technology

Italy-based Lonati S.p.A. exhibited one of the most exciting knitting concepts at the show. Lonati Group, global technology company HP and sporting company Decathlon collaborated to unveil an innovative manufacturing paradigm that harnesses 3D printing. Their endeavor represents an eco-conscious approach to shoe production, employing cutting-edge technologies — HP’s Multi Jet Fusion and Lonati’s shoe-upper knitting machines — thereby redefining the creation of sustainable footwear.

Traditionally, the footwear manufacturing process necessitates multiple components, adhesives and extensive labor. However, HP, Decathlon, and Lonati have pioneered a transformative method, presenting a sports shoe that encapsulates the future of footwear. This distinctive shoe seamlessly integrates Lonati’s intricate sock with a 3D-printed midsole and out-sole created using HP’s Jet Fusion 5200 printer. Lonati’s XT-MACHINE and Double Cylinder E1530XS knit-ting machines allow single or double-layer fabric uppers to be made, blending comfort, performance, lightweight and quality.

The sole is 3D printed using Ultrasint® TPU01 thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) powder from BASF for shock absorption, energy return and flexibility.

The collaboration underscores the industrial potential of 3D printing and digital knitting, accentuating the following focal points:

Personalization — The shoe presents extensive customization options, allowing consumers to tailor their footwear per individual preferences.

Sustainability and Repairability —The glue-free assembly approach facilitates seamless shoe repairs, avoiding the need to discard the entire shoe. Segregating cushion and upper components enables targeted fixes, prolonging product life and minimizing waste. Employing a single material, TPU, for grip and cushion elements enhances recyclability, contributing to an ecologically conscious product life cycle.

Circular Knitting Innovations

Taiwan-based Pailung is a global provider of circular textile machinery and solutions with a rich history and a strong reputation in the textile industry. Pailung’s advanced knitting machines, KS3B PLUS HS and KD3.2B PLUS, enhance fabric production speed, energy efficiency and capacity. The KS3B PLUS HS offers versatility with six fabric types and a maximum speed factor of 1350. To boost versatility, the machine can be modified using a conversion kit to further produce terry and 3-end fleece fabrics. On the other hand, the KD3.2B PLUS surpasses its predecessor in crafting six fabric types at an increased capacity.

Pailung’s innovative fabric technology can produce recyclable high pile fabrics without the need for adhesives. The Cozy Collection encompasses eco-friendly, warm, and versatile high-density, two-sided and three-layer high-pile fabrics. In-line with sustainability goals, these adhesive-free winterwear options ensure recyclability and durability. Pailung’s approach to high-pile fabric involves layered knitting to reduce labor, time, and power consumption, while preserving design flexibility. Enhanced fiber control during knit-ting amplifies design possibilities and minimizes subsequent shearing. Distinct from sliver knit fabric, Pailung’s high pile fabric achieves similar density using a unique circular knitting production process that directly creates fibers on the fabric, yielding lighter, denser, and fur-like textures that are unique.

To reduce waste and eliminate the chance of faulty fabric reaching a customer, Pailung has developed the Fabric Defect Detection system, which employs advanced computer vision and cameras within the knitting machine to stop fabric defects from continually occurring. Fabric waste translates into economic losses as well as an environmental impact. The system monitors production in real time and if a defect is identified, the machine halts.
Pailung’s AlterKnit is an evolved rendition of inverse plating, functioning by interweaving alternating yarns into the fabric’s framework. Using circular knitting machines, this process fuses yarns of varying colors or compositions within the same row. AlterKnit caters to the fashion and apparel sector, providing textile designers and manufacturers with the means to create intricate patterns incorporated directly into the knit structure, which eliminates the necessity for post-production printing or dyeing. This technology yields clear patterns with well-defined edges — a noticeable advancement over conventional inverse plating. Elements such as sports team emblems, complete with text and logos, may be created in the fabric. Single-knit AlterKnit styles also are reversible, with two mirrored iterations of the same design — comprising up to four colors — on either side.

Pailung also offers a comprehensive software suite. The Knitting Fabric Management System (KFMS) archives knitting data, facilitating the replication of fabric production. This knowledge transfer to the factory empowers any technician to reproduce saved styles. The Pailung Online Monitoring System (POMS) centrally oversees multiple knitting machines. Linked with KFMS-stored materials and parameters, POMS permits remote control, scheduling, and monitoring using a dashboard. Integration of KFMS, POMS, and the Manufacturing Execution System (MES) enhances textile factory ERP functionality. These systems can supply data to the ERP for resource management, error analysis and operational insights.

Germany-based Mayer & Cie.’s prominent offering, the Relanit 3.2 HS, stands as a highly favored machine among customers, notably for its superior productivity in elastomeric plating. This mechanical single jersey model handles a diverse spectrum of yarns and qualities, boasting consistent reliability. It excels in energy efficiency, consuming up to 30-percent less energy than traditional circular knitting machines. The latest version of Relanit 3.2 HS incorporates an enhanced yarn guide, streamlining elastic thread feeding and facilitating retrofitting for existing units.

Among Mayer & Cie.’s repertoire tailored for mattress cover fabrics, the OVJA 2.4 EM is preeminent. Within a 38-inch diameter, it produces up to 30 kilograms of coveted 300 grams per square meter fabric hourly. This dual-layer apparatus extends its capabilities to encompass spacer fabric knitting in E18 to E20 gauges. Exhibited at ITMA, the machine adeptly crafts spacer fabric with intricate perforations, supported by the thread fluctuation system in alternate units that maintain constant tension and thwart thread irregularities. The OVJA 2.4 EM is further refined with a novel horizontal yarn guide, enhancing its reliability and user-friendliness. Accommodating thicker weft yarns with a larger bore, this innovation eliminates the need for rib dial height adjustments and bolster hold-down function, which is crucial for extended floats.

In response to prevailing trends in the apparel sector, Mayer & Cie. introduced the SF4-3.2 III. This machine ingeniously amalgamates elements from the S4 3.2 II and MBF 3.2, catering to the demand for lightweight elastic three-thread fleece fabrics, including cotton blends. Significantly, its impeccable plating prowess is demonstrated through discreet background yarn, removing the necessity for double dyeing in most cases.

In summation, Mayer & Cie.’s trio of machines — Relanit 3.2 HS, OVJA 2.4 EM, and SF4-3.2 III — epitomize the synergy of innovation, efficiency, and adaptability in contemporary knitting technology.

Warp Knitting Advances

ITMA 2023 witnessed Karl Mayer’s introduction of pioneering warp knitting machinery. The RSJFS 4/1 EL, 130 inch, E14 raschel machine stood out. Capable of intricately woven patterns and designs in both flat and circular knit aesthetics, it offers remarkable productivity. Its ability to work with staple fibers enhances sustainability, including 100-percent cotton and coarser yarns in the jacquard bars.

A debutant, the RDPJ 6/2 EL MC, 138 inch, introduces a double-bar raschel machine, revolutionizing spacer fabric design. Innovations in color and jacquard techniques permit vibrant multicolor designs, making these textiles appealing to fashion, footwear, and home sectors. The elimination of dyeing via the use of spun-dyed yarns reduces environmental impact and costs.

The HKS 3-M ON, E 32, 130 inch embodies digital tricot excellence. Leveraging cloud pattern data, this model ensures rapid adaptation to trends with reproducible patterns. Notably swift and efficient, it employs advanced yarn feed innovation for seamless production.

At ITMA 2023, Karl Mayer show-cased a myriad of samples to show the capabilities of its machinery. Everything from warp knit seamless garments devoid of seams and a 3D-seamless collection featuring relief-like designs to the warp-knit-ted crochet-knit fabrics made using 100-percent cotton and next-generation 4D-Knit insulating, two-color-effect spacer fabrics were on display. Among lace innovations, Karl Mayer showcased elastane-inclusive variants with exceptional wash resistance. Karl Mayer’s presentation encompassed a spectrum of inventive textiles with diverse applications that will continue to inspire the textile industry.

Trajectory Towards Sustainability, Digitalization

In conclusion, the recently concluded ITMA 2023, renowned as the pinnacle event in the textile machinery exhibition realm, marked a notable juncture. This ITMA ushered the textile industry into a dynamic phase characterized by its trajectory toward both sustainability and digitalization. Functioning as an avant-garde global showcase, ITMA 2023 substantiated its role as a premier platform for catalyzing innovation within the textile domain. Ranging from eco-conscious materials and processes to waste mitigation and conscientious manufacturing, ITMA 2023 underscored the non-negotiable importance of sustainability for a prosperous future. Knitting in general has always been an industry where technology innovation goes beyond sheer performance and speed. The engineers and technicians at these machinery companies have added amazing features that drive brands in the fashion and industrial world to think differently. It will be interesting to see the developments for consumers when these innovations get into the hands of the knitting designers.

September/October 2023

Exhibitors at ITMA 2023 showcased the latest weaving technologies, which showed a continued commitment to sustainable production and digitization.

By Dr. Abdel-Fatah M. Seyam, Technical Editor

Responding to environmental concerns and demand from consumers, textile machinery manufacturers are developing technologies to address sustainability in terms of reducing manufacturing waste, saving in energy and water consumption, and producing yarns and fabrics from recycled and biobased fibers. The technologies exhibited at ITMA 2023 revealed the continued commitment of the machine manufacturers, which started at the previous ITMA show, to focus on sustainability and digitization that light the road to Industry 4.0. It should be noted that sustainability and digitization are highly interrelated.

This paper covers some notable innovations in weaving technologies exhibited at ITMA 2023. As seen at previous shows, machine manufacturers continue to develop and improve their equipment to form diversified products for apparel, home and technical textiles markets.

Several exhibitors demonstrated weaving yarns from recycled fibers at high-speed. At the previous ITMA show, machine manufacturers marketed their technologies as Industry 4.0 ready, which has continued at this ITMA with more development in digitization. The last three decades have witnessed a dramatic increase in automation, control, monitoring of production and performance, and data storage in super computers and cloud and communication to access the data using electronic devices.

Preparation for Weaving

Sample preparation technologies were developed for rapid prototyping. Prior to the development of sample technologies, weavers used production machines to develop prototypes, which led to significant loss of production and raw materials.

Sample warpers were advanced to not only produce prototypes, but also small and medium orders for diversified line of production. Today, because of their numerous advantages, sample warpers are used not only by weavers, but also by universities and research institutions.

At ITMA 2023, Germany-based KARL MAYER Group exhibited a compact version of the automatic sample warping machine MULTIMATIC® 32 Compact with creel capacity 32 wound packages for short and medium length warps. The machine was producing an intricate striped warp. The MULTIMATIC 32 Compact is characterized by its high production, interactive multiflexible movable creel, fast pattern changes and short setup times. The increase in productivity is achieved by eliminating the stop for leasing and sizing separation.

The company offers LINKMATIC® automatic systems to increase the productivity of indigo and sizing machines by up to 30 percent. After completing a warp beam set, the system is used for tying-in the warp yarns from the new warp beam set to the set just completed.

LINK-MATIC is designed to be managed by only one operator and reduce material waste. Karl Mayer’s machines, including warp preparation systems, are networked via cloud for efficient access to machine data and remote service.

Production and quality management reports stored in the cloud can be accessed by electronic devices such as mobiles and laptop or desktop computers. Its software offering KM.ON offers customers individual solutions that include production data analysis tools for flexibility and efficiency.

Belgium-based VANDEWIELE NV again showed its Smart Creel that was introduced at the previous show. The creel is very compact compared to a traditional creel because the large wound packages are replaced with much smaller cells/holders arranged in rows and columns. Robots are used to wind the pile yarns from large wound packages with the exact length needed per weaving pattern.

Germany-based Groz-Beckert KG showed its KnotMaster as well as the WarpMasterPlus drawing-in machine that were on display at past ITMAs. The WarpMasterPlus is equipped with a computer system with swivel monitor or a touch screen user-interface with operator guided visualization that provides instructions on operation and troubleshooting via videos. Two monitors are available as an option to facilitate operator monitoring because the machine is long at between 2.4 and 4 meters. The machine consists of the drawing-in needle, drop wires, heddle wires, reed, and a single yarn from a wound package and their associated modular mechanisms. The yarn is fed to the machine by a feeder that is similar to a weft yarn feeder in weaving. The heddle wires and drop wires, which are loaded by an operator, are fed automatically to the drawing-in zone. The single yarn is fed to the drawing-in needle that threads the yarn through a drop wire eye, a heddle wire eye, and a reed dent. Then the yarn is cut, and the procedure is repeated at up to 150 times/min depending on the yarn type. After the drawing-in is completed, the drop wires are transferred to drop wire bars and the heddle wires to harnesses. The harnesses, drop wire bars, and reed are moved on a trolley to a storage area. When a weaver’s beam is ready, the drawn-in warp from a single yarn is knotted to the corresponding warp yarns using a tying-in machine. Then warp beam, read, harnesses, drop wires bars are moved to the weaving area to supply a new warp to a weaving machine according to production planning. Due to the absence of the weaver’s beam because of using a single yarn, the drawing-in machine occupies less space. However, space is required at the next step for the weaver’s beam and tying-in process post drawing-in. While the drawing-in process is faster and setup time is shorter as a result of the simplicity of drawing from a single yarn, additional time is needed for knotting the weaver’s beam yarns to the drawn-in yarns.

Switzerland-based Stäubli showed its tying-in machine TIEPRO that was unveiled at ITMA 2019, while revealing more information about the technology at this ITMA. The machine employs a new method of yarn separation from the upper and lower warp sheets. Two conical-shaped separators are used instead of the traditional method of yarn separation, which requires a range of needles depending on yarn type and size. The TIEPRO conical yarn separation mechanism is independent of yarn type and size. Additional features of the TIEPRO include: tying-in with or without lease; 3 to 100 Ne yarn count range; double end detection; short knot fringes; up to 600 knots per minute depending on yarn characteristics and size; and it’s suitable for staple yarns, 100-percent cotton yarns and cotton blends. TIEPRO is equipped with an Auto-Reverse function that is associated with detecting double ends. The machine repeats the yarn separating process on its own before tying and it does not cut the yarn. Operator intervention is required to separate the double end and then the tying-in resumes from where it was stopped.

Stäubli again exhibited its SAFIR 60 automatic drawing-in machines for striped warps. The company’s new version of Active Warp Control 0.2 (AWC 2.0) allows the SAFIR machines to detect double-end and manage color and S or Z twist sequence in instances of drawing-in warps without lease. If double-end is detected, the two yarns are returned to the warp sheet and the system tries again for picking one yarn. As for the color/twist sequence, the AWC 2.0 checks the yarn color against the color repeat sequence and if the yarn is out of sequence, it will be kept in a storage area. Yarn in storage will be picked up later and placed in the correct sequence. The color detection system is designed to detect small differences in color to meet the demand of using same color of different shade and depth.
Weaving

Germany-based Lindauer Dornier GmbH exhibited the new air jet A2, as well as its rapier P2 weaving machines. The P2 rapier weaving machines were shown at ITMA 2015 before commercialization, and at ITMA 2019 post commercialization. At the Dornier booth, one P2 Type TGV 8/S G20/360 cm with 339 cm width in reed (WIR) machine was weaving plain weave sailcloth fabric at 320 picks per min (ppm) or 1,085 meters per min (m/min) rate of filling insertion (RFI); while an A2 Type AWS 4/E D 10/280 cm with 266 cm WIR was weaving plain woven awning fabric at 900 ppm or 2,394 m/min RFI. At the VANDEWIELE/Bonas booth, a second P2 Type TKN 8/J G/220 cm with 171 cm WIR machine was weaving intricate jacquard scarf fabric at 400 to 450 ppm or 684 to 770 m/min RFI; and on the Stäubli stand, another A2 Type AWS 6/J G/240 cm with 226.5 cm WIR machine was forming jacquard high stretch sportswear fabric from warp and weft yarns containing spandex at 1,000 ppm or 2,265 m/min RFI.

The A2 air jet machines, which is the successor of A1 series that was introduced in 1989, were shown for the first time at this ITMA. The A2 machines are highly digitized. The ErgoWeave® operating panel was redesigned with optimal continuous fabric production parameters overview. The more user-friendly high-resolution interface permits monitoring and shortens changeover of woven fabric parameters.

In the vein of digitization, weaving machines may be networked using Dornier DoXNet software, which provides a user-friendly production overview. Networking does not require internet; hence weavers have full control over their proprietary production, optimum machine settings and fabrics’ specifications data. With DoXNet, the optimum machine setting for a given type of fabric can be shared with other machines weaving the same fabric. If so desired, Dornier DoXWeave’s control desk, which centrally man-ages weaving machine data in a plant or plants, allows remote access to weaving machines’ production data. The Dornier myDoX is a portal that allows customers to shop 24/7 online and provides direct Industry 4.0 connection to experts and information from Dornier.
Discussion with technical personnel at the show revealed that Dornier’s biggest contribution to sustainability is designing sturdy machines work for many years. Dornier still provides spare parts for machines produced in 1978. It is well known fact that weavers have to surplus their machines or seek machine shops for support at extremely high cost because of a lack of spare parts for early machines. The question that comes to mind is “Can such machines be digitized at reasonable cost to benefit from digitization and readiness for Industry 4.0?”

Itema S.p.A., Italy, unveiled the new EVO Series rapier machines, R9500EVO, and an air-jet machine A9500EVO. A total of 12 machines —11 EVO 1 R9500-2 and one Hercules— were in operation at ITMA; seven machines at its booth and five machines on partner’s stands. The machines covered the formation of diversified fabrics for apparel, home textiles and technical textiles using natural and high-performance fibers. At its stand, Itema exhibited R9500 EVO/220 cm weaving wool fabric at 600 ppm or 1,320 m/min RFI, R9500EVO/220 cm weaving denim fabric at 750 ppm or 1,650 RFI, R9500EVO/190 cm weaving jacquard tapestry fabric at 600 ppm or 1,140 RFI, R9500EVO/260 cm weaving jacquard terry fabric, R9500EVO/220 cm weaving reinforced sail fabric at 600 ppm or 1,320 RFI, A9500EVO/190 cm weaving bottomweight fabric, and Hercules/380 cm weaving heavy-weight filter fabric.

The five machines exhibited at other stands include R9500EVO at the Stäubli booth weaving Jacquard high fashion apparel, R9500EVO at the VANDEWIELE booth weaving Jacquard decoration fabric, R9500EVO at the MEI stand weaving label fabric, R9500EVO at the Julibao booth weaving label fabric and a R90002 weaving shoe fabric.

In terms of sustainability, Itema offers the mechatronic device iSAVER® for raw material waste reduction, which has been expanded to several other fabric types after its initial success in denim weaving. At the Itema booth, three machines were equipped with the iSAVER® device. The technology eliminates the need for auxiliary selvage yarns and cutters and minimizes the fringe on the left-hand side of the fabric. The iSAVER® is compatible with up to six different filling yarns.

In terms of digitization, Itema offers iKNOW™ and MyWeave™ systems. The iKNOW is an expert system loaded with information collected from the field over years. Itema reports the system enhances the user experience and optimizes production. Such systems are useful based on previous experience and therefore may be limited when it comes to developing new fabrics using new materials, especially fabric from recycled and bio-based fibers. The system needs continuous update that requires commitment from Itema and their customers. MyWeave is a new system that provides monitoring and management production data for a plant or plants. The EVO series is equipped with an EVOConsole of 15.6-inch-wide touch screen and can be connected to Wi-Fi and Bluetooth. It is also ready for data analysis and IoT. The EVOConsole allows access to the brand-new customer portal HelloItema, which allows customers to request service, access data and documents, and order spare parts.

Picanol NV, Belgium, unveiled new rapier Ultimax weaving machines that build on the predecessor Opti-Max machines. The Ultimax machines are designed with a high degree of digitization to facilitate operation and communication with each other, as well as PicConnect. Picanol also exhibited the OptiMax-i rapier and OmniPlus-i air jet machines that were shown previously. A total of 10 machines were shown at the Picanol stand, one machine was exhibited at the VANDEWIELE/Bonas stand and one at the Staubli booth. The list of machines along with fabric type, weaving speed and RFI are listed below:

• Ultimax-4-R-220 weaving denim fabric at 730 ppm (1,600 m/min RFI);
• Ultimax-8-R-360 weaving voile fabric at 400 ppm (1,440 m/min RFI);
• Ultimax Terry-8-J-260 weaving jacquard terry towel at ppm (1,417 RFI);
• Ultimax-12-J-340 jacquard flat carpet at 300 ppm (1,020 m/min RFI);
• OptiMax-i Connect-4-R-430 weaving anti-hail fabric at 330 ppm (1,419 m/min RFI);
• OptiMax-i Connect-4-R-540 weaving coating fabric at 275 ppm (1,485 m/min RFI);
• TerryPlus-i Connect-6-D-260 weaving jacquard terry towel at 600 ppm (1,560 m/min RFI);
• OmniPlus-i Connect-4-D-340 weaving sheeting fabric at 1,000 ppm (2×3,400 m/min RFI);
• OmniPlus-i Connect-4-D-190 weaving car seat fabric at 1,200 ppm (2,280 m/min RFI);
• OmniPlus-i Connect-4-P-190 weaving bottom weight fabric from 100-percent recycled yarns at 1,500 ppm (2,850 m/min RFI);
• OmniPlus-i Connect-4-J-220 weaving jacquard african damask at Staubli stand; and
• OptiMax-i Connect-12-J-190 weaving a jacquard fabric at VAN-DEWIELE/Bonas booth.

The OmniPlus-i Connect-4-P-190 weaving machine was weaving bottom weight fabric from 100-percent recycled warp and weft yarns with fiber content 67-percent polyester/33 percent cotton at and impressive speed of 1,500 ppm (2,850 m/min RFI). The performance, and hence weavability, of yarns from recycled fibers is lower. Despite this, Picanol demonstrated the commitment to develop high-speed machines to handle such yarns containing short fibers and support sustainability initiatives. Picanol reports that the Ulti-max-4-R-220 is recycled yarn ready. Another notable achievement is weaving sheeting from fine cotton yarns Nm 102/1 warp and Nm 68/1 weft with fabric count (72x41x2) at 1,000 ppm weaving speed or 2×3,400 m/min RFI — the 2 denotes double-pick insertion. As a result of the higher levels of short fiber content in recycled yarns, higher fly is generated that settled on the machine, warp sheet and fabric during demonstration. This fly will require a blowing system to remove the lint. Blowers and suction systems are not unusual in weaving operations.

The Ultimax-8-R-360 and Omni-Plus-i Connect-4-P-190 machines were equipped with newly developed leno motion O-Leno. The O-Leno yarns are driven by a timing belt and two time gears that can be programmed to form half-turn or full-turn leno weaves to secure the fabric selvages. It may be programmed to vary form half- or full-turn leno for individual weft yarns depending on their surface characteristics.

Picanol’s highly digitized machines are Industry 4.0 ready. The company developed PicConnect to access data stored in the cloud. It is the gateway to all Picanol digital information access such as Picanol applications, IoT, AI, and customer service.

Smit S.r.l. Italy, exhibited three rapier machines — the new 2FAST 220 C8 D; the GS980 260 F8 J, previously shown at ITMA; and a new conceptual machine under development, the CONCEPT 190 C8 D. The 2FAST machine was weaving denim fabric at 700 ppm with WIR 222 or 1,554 m/min RFI, the GS980 machine was weaving jacquard terry towel at 500 ppm with WIR 244.4 cm or 1,222 RFI, and CONCEPT machine was weaving shirting fabric at 800 ppm with WIR 172 cm or 1376 m/min RFI. The 2FAST and the CONCEPT machines are designed for quick style Changes. The warp stop motion of the CONCEPT machine uses a laser device, which eliminates the drop wires. Monitoring warp breaks using lasers may be challenging in situations where a high warp density causes the broken yarn to be supported by neighboring yarns instead of falling where it is detected by the laser. The 2FAST machine is equipped with 2SAVE that was shown for the first time at ITMA 2019. 2SAVE eliminates auxiliary selvages from both sides and cut weft fringes collected for recycling. While the machine at the show was weaving denim fabric, it is designed for versatility to weave fabrics for fashion, home textiles, and technical fabrics using range of yarns from different fibers and counts. The rapier uses a previously introduced free flight system — no guide is required to support the rapier during weft insertion.

Japan-based Toyota Industries Corp. showed three of its new JAT 910 air jet series machines at ITMA. A JAT910 4F-230ES-EF was weaving high fabric count (274×526) double-faced fabric at 1,000 ppm with WIR 210 cm (2,100 RFI), a JAT910 2S-340LM-ET was demonstrated weaving side-by-side 261 cm wide sheeting and 20 cm wide pillow fabrics at 900 ppm (3,060 m/min RFI), and JAT910 8T-280JE-EH was weaving four panels of different jacquard terry towel patterns at 950 ppm with 269 WIR (2555.5 m/min RFI). Toyota’s approach to sustainability is in reducing air and energy consumption. Its i-SENSOR technology monitors the leading weft yarn during insertion inside the shed prior to arrival at the right-side selvage. Early arrival — which occurs as the weft package diameter is reduced due to the fact that the weft yarn gets more air friendly with higher traction —will be detected and insertion timing is adjusted accordingly. Toyota reported a 20-percent reduction in air consumption compared to the conventional models. There are no studies in public domain that com-pares air consumption using adaptive control systems by different machine manufacturers.

Toyota’s factory management support system FACT has been evolved to FACT-plus. The system collects data in real time from weaving preparation, weaving machines and the inspection room, and pro-poses actions to machines and operators. It monitors different sensors — such as speed, pressure, temperature, and compressor pressure data, for example — and provides instructions for machine maintenance and the next assignments for operators.

Japan-based Tsudakoma Corp. exhibited a new air jet weaving machine series, the ZAX001neo, that was successfully commercialized and sold in 2021. At its stand the company demonstrated a ZAX001neo-190-2C-Cam weaving lining fabric at 1,200 ppm (2,280 m/min RFI), and a ZAX001neo-390-4C-Cam weaving awning fabric at 820 ppm (3,198 m/min). A new weft insertion system, designed as a standard for the ZAX001neo machines with optimized auxiliary nozzles positions, led to a reduction of 35 percent in air consumption corresponding to 20-per-cent reduction in air pressure compared to the previous generation model. Additionally, a direct drive high-efficiency IPM motor, developed for this series, reduces stop marks. The company upgraded its weaving support system to Weave Navigation® System II. The system has different functions: Weave Vavi® provides user support to best weaving conditions for a given situation; Tune Navigation delivers the best machine setting — including loom timing, tension, easing amount and air pressure — for a given fabric type; and i-start, which eliminates stop marks via controlling the let-off and take-up to adjust cloth fell position and the warp tension back to its pre-set levels.

3D Weaving

3D weaving for fiber-reinforced composites and other innovative applications was a highlight in the weaving area again at this ITMA. At previous shows, companies displayed 3D woven products with variable thickness, distances (spacer), stitched multilayer, and unstitched/stitched double cloth for insertion of electronics and ceramic for ballistic protection.

At ITMA 2023, VANDEWIELE showcased samples and displayed on a large screen several distance/spacer fabrics for automotive and boat applications to demonstrate the capabilities of its weaving technologies.

England-based Optima 3D was a return exhibitor at ITMA. The company exhibited one Series SJ-600-4 3D weaving machine equipped with four shuttles for weft insertion and the SX Staubli Jacquard shedding system. The machine forms one shed at a time and the shuttle is transferred by a magnetized rapier arm for weft insertion. The arm is designed with a magnetized conical space to hold the metal nose of shuttle. The machine is equipped with a linear fabric take-up motion — thick 3D preforms cannot be taken-up on rollers — and touch-screen controls for user interface. Warp yarns are supplied from a com-pact creel with rotating flanged spools that allow parallel winding for longer yarn packages and hence longer runs to reduce creel changes. The creel capacity is 576 spools, and two or more creels can be set behind the machine if needed. The company product line also includes spool winding machines. Shuttle weaving combined with a jacquard shedding system allows the formation of 3D orthogonal and angle interlocking, stitched/unstitched multi-layer along with a variety of shaped 3D preforms including I, T, Truss, cellular, among other shapes, for fiber-reinforced composites and other applications.

VÚTS A.S., Czech Republic, exhibited the DIFA air-jet weaving machine weaving 3D distance fabric. The machine can be programmed to form fabrics with variable distances between the top and bottom base, or ground, fabrics to obtain the target shape of the inflatable structure after coating. This type of distance fabric requires a mini-mum of two warp beams — one dedicated for the warp sheet for the top and bottom ground fabrics and the other is assigned for the pile warp sheet. Applications for the distance fabrics include inflatable structures such as boats of different types, dock, mats, flood protection and lifting bags.The company also showed its CAMEL ADAPTIVE air-jet machine for leno fabrics. VUTS promotes its machine as Industry 4.0 ready.

Smart & High-Performance Narrow Weaving

Switzerland-based Jakob Müller Group has been developing narrow weaving machines for smart textiles applications since ITMA 2011. Back then, the company showed a wireless smart label that consisted of a woven antenna from electrically conductive yarn and a chip with integrated circuit for antifraud identification using radio frequency (RF) technology. At ITMA 2019, the company showed its NFM®MDW® — Multi Directional Weaving — machine weaving narrow fabric containing electrically conductive e-yarns from polyester/copper/silver with the aid of e-yarn guides that move the yarns out of the open reed and place them as desired to form fabric-based electronic circuits.

At ITMA 2023, Jakob Müller showed the NFM 53 2/84 MDW. Unlike the previous generation shown in 2019, the updated model uses a different methodology of laying in effect or functional yarns in strategic places to form a desired pattern. The MDW is equipped with effect or functional yarn guides with up to four guide bars available. The effect/functional yarns are moved downward aided by the guide bars. The weft yarn is then inserted to hold the effect/functional yarn in place, then the effect/functional yarn is incorporated to the fabric following the beat-up. A strategic motion can be electronically preprogrammed to move the effect/functional yarn to either side by a specified distance and lower the yarn to interlace with the weft yarn. The steps are repeated to complete the targeted design. The calculated movement of the effect/functional yarn guides results in the formation of area covered with the yarn distributed with the desired pattern. The NFM 53 2/84 MDW machine was demonstrated forming an e-textile from polyester filament base fabric yarns and two conductive yarns containing copper and nickel controlled independently by two guide bars. Potential applications for this technology include e-textiles, fashionable textiles using colored and fancy yarns, and multidirectional yarns for enhanced performance in different directions other than the main directions of warp and weft. Currently, formation of 3D multidirectional preforms for fiber-reinforced composites is achieved by manually stacking of 2D woven fabrics at different angles to form semi-isotropic and other structures with enhanced properties at different directions, which is time consuming, subjected to labor errors, and costly. The MDW technology can be expanded for broad weaving to benefit the fiber-reinforced composite industry for forming wide preforms with laid-in multidirectional high-performance yarns.

On-Loom Fabric Inspection

On-loom fabric inspection systems have been developed to detect defects at the loom stage and trouble shoot the root cause of defects and thus avoiding the production of off quality fabrics that leads to reduction in fabric waste and increase in profit. One of the early systems was Batch Motion consisting of an off-loom fabric take-up, platform/stage for operator/inspector and inspection station. The inspection station is similar to post-weaving manual inspection and relay on the weaver/ inspector’s eye to detect defects. There are several drawbacks associated with the batch motion and to eliminate manual or Batch Motion inspection, several automated on-loom fabric inspection systems with high-speed image capture using cameras and scanners were developed. Examples of these technologies include LOOM-TEX by Elbit Vision Systems, Israel, Cyclops by Duluth, Ga.-based Barco, and Fabricscan by Uster Technologies Ltd., Switzerland. These systems can capture and store fabric defect images, identify and classify defects, report defects maps, and stop the weaving process based on the severity of the defect. The systems are installed between the front fabric rest and take-up rolls, which was an improvement over the manual post-weaving and Batch Motion inspection. However, more than one meter of fabric passes the system before detection, which results in late discovery of fabric defects and leads to second quality product and waste. To avoid this serious disadvantage, Uster offers the Q-BAR 2 on-loom automatic fabric inspection system that was exhibited again at this ITMA. The scanner is installed right above the fabric formation area and covers the entire width, including the cloth fell, as well as the fabric length as the fabric is taken up for 100-per-cent quality fabric quality monitoring. The fabric is scanned right after each weft insertion so fabric inspection is not delayed. The Q-BAR 2 is equipped with a touchscreen visualization system. The system offers options for grading fabric rolls based of defect type, size, and location that can be defined based on the quality required in the end-use product.

While there are high volume instrument systems to measure fiber quality data that spinners use to optimize bale layout for production of high-quality and consistent yarn batches and monitoring quality of yarn of individual positions on winding machines, these data are not utilized by the weavers due to lack of available systems. Warp yarns are numerous and it is extremely difficult to make use of their quality data captured during the winding process during the weaving process. It is envisioned that the Uster Q-BAR 2 system may be used to monitor the warp yarns. Two monitoring locations may be feasible: to monitor the warp sheet between the warp take off point from the warp beam and web roll using additional unit; or, to monitor the warp and fabric quality using one unit. The latter approach is less expensive but more challenging as the reed moves — from the beat-up position to the most back position —and comes between the scanner and the warp sheet up to 1,500 times —equal to loom speed in ppm. However, this may be accounted for since the system uses high-speed cameras.

Road To Industry 4.0 For The Weaving Industry

The ultimate goal of Industry 4.0 is to maximize productivity, efficiency and product quality through automation and digitization of technologies that allow communication between machines, software systems, and people via the Internet of Things throughout different stages of the pipeline required to manufacture a product. This can be achieved by cyber-physical systems and big data/cloud storage to collect data from sensors and integrate them for analytics and artificial intelligence (AI). In terms of automation, weaving machine manufactures have developed numerous automated systems including warp stop motions, weft stop motions and automatic repair, monitoring stops and efficiency, adaptive weft control systems for air-jet weaving for saving energy, automatic weave/pattern change, pre-programmed weft selection for intricacy and hybridization, preprogrammed variable machine speed, preprogrammed weft density, automatic on-loom fabric inspection, automatic smart drawing-in and tying-in machines, individual warp yarn control in jacquard, and individual harness control in dobby, among other automation technologies. More affordable automations are still required to achieve the goal of Industry 4.0, including automatic repair of broken warp yarns, multi-phase weaving that triples or quadruples productivity with dobby/jacquard shedding systems, and automated style change system. There is a need for integration of the entire technologies required to manufacture woven-based products from fibers since the productivity and quality are influenced by all the steps required to form them.

At this ITMA, weaving machine manufacturers continued to advance their technologies with high degree of digitization that allows machines to communicate and store big data relevant to the production and fabric quality that are accessible to users via intuitive use-friendly interface. Manufacturers’ software products are broad and varied, which poses challenges to companies housing machines from different manufacturers. Machines are driven digitally by proprietary and elaborate low-level computer code. A company with machines from different manufactures cannot integrate its production and quality data without adding significant cost. The integration must be done by collaboration between machine manufacturers to standardize data access and user interface or by a third party. The demand from customers may lead government agencies to regulation of standardization. Collaboration between companies that are not fully vertically integrated, such as greige fabric producers, are in need to collaborate with their suppliers and customers to take full advantage of digitization and Industry 4.0.

The complexity of the textile industry creates a need for a technical team with collective skills in textile technology and engineering, machine learning, AI models, computer programming language, mathematics, and statistics to achieve the goals of Industry 4.0. Vertically integrated companies may afford to build such a team. Those who cannot afford such a team may collaborate with their business partners or retain consultant firms in the field. How fast the textile industry completes the road to Industry 4.0 depends on the factors discussed above and perhaps more importantly on the economy.

September/October 2023