Techtextil North America 2012 Exhibitor Preview: Klüber Lubrication North America

LONDONDERRY, N.H. — April 18, 2012 — Klüber Lubrication, one of the world’s leading manufacturers
of specialty lubricants, will be displaying its line of nonylphenol ethorxylates (NPE)-free Madol
900 N Series needle and sinker oils at Techtextil North America, April 24-26 at the Georgia World
Conference Center in Atlanta, Ga.

Klüber’s environmentally friendly Madol 900 N Series is the most extensive line of NPE-free
needle oils in the market today. They are used to lubricate needles, sinkers, cams, cylinders,
dials and sinker rings of large-diameter knitting machinery. The oils fulfil the wide-ranging
operational requirements found in today’s modern knitting mills and are suitable for applications
in circular and flat-bed knitting equipment. The Madol 900 N Series protects needles from excessive
wear, corrosion and rust and are easily washed out under normal scour procedures.

Research has found that NPEs can be extremely harmful to the environment and to people.
Klüber developed the Madol 900 N oils as a safer and successful alternative to conventional
NPE-based oils.



Kluber



Needle and sinker in circular knitting machines

Techtextil North America is North America’s only dedicated show for technical textiles and
nonwovens. It covers all vertical aspects of the technical textile industry, including research and
development; raw materials and production processes and conversion, further treatment and
recycling.

Posted on April 19, 2012

Source: Klüber Lubrication North America

Techtextil North America 2012 Exhibitor Preview: Methods Workshop LLC

LAKE WORTH, Fla. — April 17, 2012 — Methods Workshop LLC (http://www.methodsworkshop.com) will
present its latest Engineered TruCost™ Version 9.3 (ETC) sewn products costing and engineering
software at Texprocess Americas on April 24 – 26 in Atlanta, Georgia (USA). Driven primarily by
global client input, the wide range of new and enhanced capabilities of ETC 9.3 include
user-configurable workspaces, advanced search tools, expanded information displays and reporting,
and export to standard file formats. The company will offer hands-on demonstrations of ETC and its
pre-production cost estimating companion Quick TruCost (QTC) in Booth 3032 at the event, which is
the largest sewn products and equipment trade show in the Americas.
(http://www.texprocessamericas.com).

“As cost control and operational efficiency continue to define the competitiveness of apparel
and sewn products manufacturers, we are experiencing strong growth throughout the Americas”, noted
Methods Workshop President John Stern. The close partnership we share with our customers enables us
to constantly innovate with our products as we help these companies increase profits and expand
business opportunities.”

Engineered TruCost utilizes methods time measurement (MTM) standards that enable engineering,
product development, sourcing, and production professionals to quickly and accurately predict
product costs, define operational best practices, and benchmark manufacturing performance against
global standards. Built on the Microsoft .NET connection software, SQL Server® database, and Visual
C# development tools, ETC 9 sets the standard for industry functionality and performance with an
unparalleled user experience and secure, reliable computing platform.

Key enhancements included in Engineered TruCost Version 9.3 include:

•    Direct Export of Operations to PDF, XLS, CSV, and other popular formats

•    Expanded and Improved Operation Search Capabilities

•    Expanded Machine Description Displays and Reporting

•    Collapsible Search Lists Maximize User Workspace

•    Improved Macro Function and Report

•    Enhanced Operation Add, Copy, Paste, Save, Export and Display

•    Configure Print Output to One or Two Pages

Posted on April 19, 2012

Source: Methods Workshop LLC

The Rupp Report: Successful ITMA Asia + CITME 2012 Anticipated

Last week,

Textile World
reported in its weekly enewsletter that due to overwhelming response, the owners of ITMA
Asia + CITME 2012 have now booked the remaining available space at the Shanghai New International
Expo Centre (SNIEC), where the event will take place June 12-16, 2012
(See ”
ITMA
ASIA + CITME 2012 Exhibition Attracts Overwhelming Response
,”
TextileWorld.com, April 10, 2012).

China Too Strong

Regular readers of The Rupp Report know the content of interviews with European leaders from
the textile machinery business about their experience during ITMA 2011 in Barcelona, Spain. One of
the questions that was always raised was one about the rhythm of the ITMAs in Europe and Asia —
whether it would be better for the textile machinery industry to have an ITMA in Europe and Asia
each every four years only? The reply was unanimous: “It would be good enough to have a show every
four years each in Asia and in Europe.”

However, the facts are different now. And, frankly speaking, this is not very surprising
after all. In spite of all the current troubles, the Asian markets in general, and particularly in
China, are just too strong to stay away from that booming region of the world. As the report from
last week informs: “The latest statistics from China Customs reveal that China’s textile machinery
foreign trade registered a year-on-year growth of 25.6% to reach US$7.6 billion in 2011; of this
amount, exports contributed US$2.25 billion while imports chalked up US$5.36 billion.”

Additional Space

And, furthermore: “With the additional 6,000 square meters of exhibition space, the show
will now gross over 132,000 square meters, 30 percent larger than the previous event in 2010. More
than 1,230 exhibitors from 27 countries and regions will take part. The Rupp Report talked to
Daphne Poon, regional marketing communications director of MP International Pte Ltd. to get some
additional information about the forthcoming show.


Rupp Report
: Can you give an exhibitor breakdown per country?




Daphne Poon

: Besides China, the top exhibiting countries for ITMA Asia + CITME 2012 by space are
Germany, Italy, Japan and Switzerland. Now, 11.5 halls have been booked for ITMA Asia + CITME 2012.


RR
: If a company wants to sign up for a booth, is it now too late, or do they have a chance?


Poon
: Well, exhibitors can still apply for their space at itmaasia.com, but there is a waiting
list of applicants for the show. And I must say that allocation of space is dependent on the date
of application, and whether there is space in the sector applied for. However, the organizers will
keep the waitlisted applicants updated on the available spaces.

Facilitate The Application


RR
: To facilitate a visit, is there a website or an email address that visitors from all over
the world can contact to ask for a recommendation to make it easier to get a Visa?


Poon
: This is a very important question. Visitors can request their visa invitation letters from
the official travel agent on the ITMA Asia + CITME 2012 website, itmaasia.com. They can click on
the Visa tab under the Visitors section and request a letter of invitation. They can use this
letter to support their application for a visa at their local Chinese embassy or consulate. The
steps for a visa application and relevant charges for the application can be found on the website.
Maybe I can add something quite important: Visitors are advised to plan their visits and apply for
their visas as early as possible to buffer for potential delays in the processing of their visas.

Product Piracy


RR
: A never-ending issue is product piracy, particularly at Asian textile machinery shows. Will
the organizers fight against product piracy? And what are the rules for an exhibitor?


Poon
: As you know, protection of intellectual property rights has traditionally been the hallmark
of ITMA branded shows. As part of the rental contract for ITMA Asia + CITME 2012, each exhibitor is
obliged to sign a legally binding statement confirming that he will not infringe the trademark and
intellectual property rights of another exhibitor or a third party.

The general regulations of ITMA Asia + CITME 2012 also clearly state that all exhibitors
must respect, and are liable for ensuring protection of, the intellectual property rights of other
exhibitors and of third parties — such as, for example, patents, trademarks, copyrights and such —
when displaying their products at the show.


RR
: Okay, but what do you do if an exhibitor is infringing the rules?


Poon
: If it is proven to the show organizer that an exhibitor has infringed the intellectual
property rights of another exhibitor or a third party, the organizer is entitled to remove the
exhibit/s causing the infringement and to stop the offending exhibitor from continuing with his
participation.


RR
: There is a persistent rumor that domestic and foreign exhibitors don’t pay the same
square-meter prices.


Poon
: I can assure you that ITMA Asia + CITME works on a principle of unified pricing. However,
to facilitate payment by Chinese and international exhibitors, the cost for participation is
offered in both renminbi and U.S. dollars.

Visits Should Be Booked As Soon As Possible


RR
: Okay, let’s have a look at the visitors now: Is there a website or an email address
visitors may use to search for a hotel?


Poon
: Yes, of course. The visitors may go to the ITMA Asia + CITME 2012 website at
itmaasia.com. Under the Visitors tab, click on Hospitality,
then Hotel Booking to see the list of hotels with special rates negotiated for the show. That’s a
very easy way to have access to hotels.

As Poon mentioned above, visitors are advised to plan their visits early. To avoid onsite
queues, they may purchase badges at a specially reduced rate online at
itmaasia.com or
citme.com.cn.

April 17, 2012

PHPI To Open Plant In Scottsboro, Ala., Add 25 Jobs

Scottsboro, Ala.-based Polyamide High Performance Inc. (PHPI) — the North American business unit of
PHP, a Germany-based manufacturer of high-tenacity polyamide and polyester yarns and polymers for
automotive safety, tire and technical, and broad and narrow weaving applications, among others —
has announced a partnership with Toyobo Co. Ltd. — a Japan-based manufacturer of fibers, fabrics,
films and resins, among other products — to establish an airbag fabric weaving and finishing
business in Scottsboro that will operate under the name SafeTweave Inc.

Toyobo will provide the technology and equipment for SafeTweave’s state-of-the-art plant,
which will be located in an existing building adjacent to PHPI’s nylon spinning plant. PHPI’s plant
will supply nylon 6,6 for the operation, which will sell its full airbag fabric output to Toyobo
Industrial Materials America Inc. to be used in U.S.-made Japanese cars. SafeTweave is expected to
begin commercial production in December 2012 and create 25 jobs in the process.

PHPI Sales Director Manuel Guerra noted the endeavor is part of the company’s effort to bring
insourcing and manufacturing back to the United States. “For one, it’s attractive, but also, it’s
based on the supply chain — we have had issues over the last few years due to earthquakes, the
tsunami in Japan and flooding in Thailand. There’s a big push from Japanese original equipment
manufacturers to make sure they have localized supply.”

Toyobo currently has airbag fabric weaving operations in Japan and Thailand and is partnering
with Tokyo-based Toyota Tsusho Corp. to open a new plant in China. Toyobo plans to establish a
sales company in Michigan through which it will sell airbag fabrics it procures from SafeTweave.

PHP comprises Polyamide High Performance and its subsidiary Polyester High Performance GmbH.
The company has facilities in Germany and the United States and a joint venture in China with China
ShenMa Group Co. Ltd.

April 17, 2012

Lear To Acquire Guilford Performance Textiles

Lear Corp. — a Southfield, Mich.-based supplier of automotive seating and electrical power
management systems — has signed an agreement to acquire Guilford Performance Textiles — a
Wilmington, N.C.-based manufacturer of automotive and specialty textiles — from New York City-based
private investment company Cerberus Capital Management LP for an undisclosed price.

Guilford’s history dates from 1946, when its operation comprised two knitting machines and
six employees. Over the years, the company added dyeing, finishing and laminating operations in
addition to fabric design and development capabilities, and its product range grew to include
furniture upholstery, automotive and specialty fabrics. Guilford was acquired in 2005 by Cerberus
and has in the years since then restructured its operation, expanded globally, and introduced new
products. Today, the company operates four manufacturing facilities – two in the United States and
two in Europe – and participates in a joint venture in China; has sales offices in the United
States, Mexico, Europe and Asia; employs approximately 1,600 workers – of whom some 60 to 65
percent are employed in the United States; and reports annual sales totaling some $400 million.
Currently, about 85 percent of production is dedicated to automotive fabrics that are sold to major
global automobile manufacturers; and 15 percent to high-tech applications including filtration,
performance apparel, window covering, medical and other industrial applications.

Lear, established in 1917 under the name American Metal Products as a manufacturer of
assemblies for automotive and aircraft applications, today is a Fortune 500 company that has
approximately 98,000 employees working in more than 200 locations in 35 countries, and reported
2010 sales totaling $12 billion.

“This transaction marks a significant positive development in Guilford’s history,” said Chad
Brooks, president, Guilford Performance Textiles. “Lear’s global scale and strong market position
will provide additional opportunities to increase our business globally. We look forward to joining
Lear and working together to further develop and grow our global fabric capabilities.”

“This acquisition adds global fabric design and development resources, as well as technical
expertise to our existing seat trim capabilities in emerging markets and fabric production in
Asia,” said Matt Simoncini, president and CEO, Lear Corp. Lear also has a small operation in Asia
that produces automotive seating fabric.

April 17, 2012

Trützschler Nonwovens Acquires Bastian Winder Technologies

Trützschler Nonwovens — a supplier of technologies for technical textile and nonwoven fabric
manufacturers, and one of three business units that comprise Germany-based Trützschler GmbH &
Co KG — has acquired Bastian Winder Technologies GmbH & Co. KG, a Germany-based manufacturer of
winders for nonwovens, film, paper and composites. With this acquisition, Trützschler Nonwovens now
will be able to offer complete nonwovens plants from staple fiber spinning to winding.

“The technologically outstanding products of Bastian supplement our product programme so
that we can now offer the customer a perfect solution down to the winder,” said Marc Wolpers,
managing director, Trützschler Nonwovens. The customer no longer has to worry about interfaces, but
will receive a perfectly aligned solution.”

Trützschler Nonwovens will offer the product line under the Bastian name going forward, and
notes that Bastian employees will continue to be available to assist its customers.

April 17, 2012

Bulletin Board

New York City-based
Anvil Knitwear Inc. is sponsoring the Earth Day Organic Indoor Learning Garden
program in partnership with Earth Day New York, to be held April 22, 2012.

Dalton, Ga.-based
Shaw Industries Group Inc.‘s Shaw Contract Group division has opened Leadership in
Energy and Environmental Design (LEED®)-registered Commercial Interior (CCI) showrooms in Mexico
City and Shanghai. Shaw partnered with Mexico-based Terza Inc. to open the Mexico City showroom,
which is pending Retail certification. The Shanghai showroom is pending LEED CI Gold certification.

Los Angeles-based
Tuftex Carpets
of California‘s Color Coordinates Display received a Gold Outstanding
Merchandising Achievement Award from The Global Association for Marketing At Retail (POPAI) at the
2012 annual GlobalShop Trade Show in Las Vegas.

Austria-based
Lenzing AG announces that all of its fibers have been certified to The European
Eco-label and the Nordic Ecolabel. In addition, nonwovens made from 100-percent Tencel® and Lenzing
Viscose® have received TÜV Rheinland Group’s Deutsches Institut für Normung e.V. (DIN) Certco
certification as compostable products; Tencel Sun fiber won the Sustainability Award in the
category “Fabrics & Fibers” at the 2011 International Trade Fair For Sporting Goods and Sports
Fashion (ISPO); Tencel fiber has been certified as 100-percent Biobased by the U.S. Department of
Agriculture (USDA); and Lenzing FR® fiber has been certified as 96-percent Biobased by the USDA.

Jefferson, Ga.-based
Buhler Quality Yarns Corp.‘s Supima® cotton, MicroModal® and MicroTencel® yarns
have received Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 Class I certification.

Newark, Del.-based
W.L. Gore & Associates Inc. has launched its new website, located at
GoreProtectiveFabrics.com.

BulletinBoardGore


Gore’s new website

The Arlington, Va.-based
American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) has released the tenth edition
of the AAFA Restricted Substances List (RSL) for home textiles, apparel and footwear applications.
AAFA also now offers its members access to iSupplier Intelligence, a global directory of suppliers.

Wichita, Kan.-based
Invista‘s Cordura® HP fabric has been selected for use in Herschel Supply Co.’s
Spring 2012 Woodland Camo Collection of bags.


The
NewMerino™ brand of Australian Merino wool has launched a Facebook page, located
at
facebook.com/NewMerino.

Laconia, N.H.-based
Madeira USA has released the 2012 version of “Source Guide, The Commercial
Embroiderers’ Complete Catalog of Suppliers,” available online and as a printed copy.

The
Technical Association of the Pulp, Paper, Packaging and Converting Industries
(TAPPI)
, Norcross, Ga., is accepting nominations through August 1, 2012, for the 2013
TAPPI Awards. Nominations may be emailed to standards@tappi.org; faxed to +770-446-6947 ATTN:
Awards Department; or mailed to TAPPI, Awards Department, 15 Technology Pkwy S, Norcross, Ga.,
30092. TAPPI also is offering the William L. Cullison Memorial Scholarship to students for the
2012-13 school year. Application deadline is May 1, 2012. For more information, contact
tappi.org/About-TAPPI/Award–Honors.aspx.

Vancouver, Canada-based
Recovery Systems International (RSI) has acquired the rights to license The
Official Sleep Products of Ironman®, and will manage the global rights to sub-license the Ironman
brand in the sleep products category.

Ventura, Calif.-based
Patagonia Inc. has released a video to promote its partnership with NewMerino®.
The video is available for viewing at

http://video.patagonia.com/video/Global-Merino.

France-based
Mermet‘s Cortina and Siena 100-percent recyclable polyvinyl chloride-free solar
protection fabrics have received Cradle to Cradle certified (CM) Silver certification by McDonough
Braungart Design Chemistry LLC (MBDC).

BulletinBoardMermet

Mermet’s Cortina and Siena Solar protection fabrics

Germany-based
Terrot GmbH has launched its new website, located at
terrot.de.

Zepol Corp., Minneapolis, has released the “2011 U.S. Port Report,” available at
zepol.com; and has enhanced searching capabilities of its online
TradeIQ™ trade intelligence tool.

Shirley, Mass.-based
Bemis Associates Inc. has opened an office in Vietnam, located at Unit 708, Tung
Shing Square Bldg, 2 Ngo Quyen St., Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam; phone +84-4-3-9352620/1;
fax 84-4-3-9352623.

Visual 2000 International Inc., Montreal, has launched the Visual 2000 On-Demand
Training program to provide its clients with exclusive remote training classes.

Camira Fabrics Ltd., United Kingdom, has launched in North America its Xtreme and
Urban upholstery fabrics manufactured from 100-percent post-industrial recycled polyester and
featuring engineered stretch and good flammability performance.

Michigan City, Ind.-based
Sullair Corp. has launched its new website, sullair.com.

The
U.S. Department of Commerce Office of Intellectual Property Rights has redesigned
stopfakes.gov, its website offering U.S. government tools and resources on intellectual property
rights (IPR). The website, administered by the International Trade Administration, offers new
resources, improved usability and a helpful tool to access targeted assistance from a number of
U.S. Government offices.

Ferndale, Wash.-based
Samson Rope Technologies Inc. has been awarded U.S. Patent No. 8,109,072 for its
MLX rope, which is the first fiber rope on the market comprising a blend of high modulus
polypropylene (HMPP) and high modulus polyethylene (HMPE).

Edison, N.J.-based
ADI Logistics has opened a distribution center in Carson, Calif.

Hoboken, N.J.-based
John Wiley & Sons Inc. has published the book “Zennovation,” by Tomio Taki.
The book details how Taki turned his family’s 200-year-old textile manufacturing company into a
global business.

SGS Consumer Testing Services, Fairfield, N.J., announces it has relocated its
textile testing laboratory in Egypt to 6th of October City, 3rd Industrial Area, Block 60, Oil
Station St., Cairo.

The
Textile Rental Services Association of America (TRSA), Alexandria, Va., is
celebrating its 100th anniversary this year.

Los Angeles-based
Robert Kaufman Fabrics and Durham, N.C.-based
Spoonflower Inc. have launched Fabric8, a competition to find eight new, modern
fabric designers. Deadline for submissions is April 24, 2012. For more information, contact
fabric8contest.com.

April 2012

Quality Fabric Of The Month: Durable Water Repellency Plus Soft Hand

A new patent-pending silicone-based technology is challenging traditional fluorocarbon-based technologies in the area of durable water repellent textile finishes, especially those applied to cellulosic and blended fabrics. While polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) has long been regarded as the most effective solution to achieve water repellency in textiles, its ecological impact has raised well-publicized concerns, and while more eco-friendly shorter-chain C6 and C4 versions of PTFE
technology have been developed, there still are issues related to the hand imparted to the textiles on which they are applied. Midland, Mich.-based silicon technology specialist Dow Corning now has
introduced to this corner of the market Dow Corning® DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard finish, claiming it offers not only effective, durable water repellency and waterborne stain repellency, but also imparts a much softer hand — a benefit that is creating excitement among major outerwear and activewear brands that offer water-repellent, performance apparel.

Silicones have applications in a very wide range of industries, from automotive, construction, electronics, and oil and gas to beauty and personal care, food and beverage, healthcare, and textiles and nonwovens, among many other applications. In textiles, they are used
to provide easy care, comfort and high-performance properties. They can be made hydrophobic or hydrophilic, and as a hydrophobic water-repellent agent on a textile, they cause water to bead up on the surface and roll off, while also allowing water vapor to pass through the fabric.
Silicon-based water repellents have been developed before, but their wash durability and emulsion stability have been limited; and they can release hydrogen gas, among other issues. In contrast, DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard has been confirmed through testing to meet or exceed the durability of conventional fluorocarbon finishes, withstanding 30 and more home laundry cycles; and, in addition to containing no fluorine, it is free of solvents and alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs). Dow Corning
also points out that the DWR-7000 system offers potential cost savings compared to fluorocarbon-based systems and can replace multiple finishing components, and it does not require the application of heat for reactivation. The system can be applied to a textile using conventional
equipment.

QFOMpic

Dow Corning® DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard causes water to bead up on a cotton khaki twill
fabric treated with the finish, while enhancing the softness of the fabric.

 

QFOMfig1


Comparison of water repellency performance of khaki twill after washing

QFOMFig2


Comparative hand rating of khaki twill treated with water repellents

The environmental benefits to using DWR-7000 include the fact that the silicones used in the system do not have any toxicological effects or show evidence of bioaccumulation. However, according to Joanna Giovanoli, marketing manager, Dow Corning Textiles, the benefit that is of most interest to brands and retailers is the soft hand imparted to the fabric. “Silicone is generally a softening agent anyway,” she said. “There are other solutions in the marketplace beyond C6 and C4 for water repellency, and potential issues with those regarding their environmental impact were not as much our concern. What we found is that with DWR-7000, the soft hand is superior to other solutions in the market, and that is one thing our customers are very excited about.”

Indeed, in an examination of swatches of treated cotton knit fabrics, Textile World found a notable difference between the hand and feel of a knit cotton fabric treated with DWR-7000 and one treated with a C6 finish, while both delivered equivalent water repellency. The fabric tested would be suitable for sweatshirts, hoodies and other such apparel.

DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard is targeted to cottons and cellulosic/man-made fiber blends, but Giovanoli said the company also is working on a formulation specifically for man-made-fiber textiles. Although the new finish currently is targeted to performance apparel, other potential
applications include home textiles such as tablecloths and upholstery fabrics.


For more information about Dow Corning® DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard, contact dowcorning.com/DWR7000dowcorning.com/ContactUs.


April 17, 2012

Another Profitable Year

All signs point to improving 2012 bottom-line performance for the U.S. textile and apparel sectors.
Credit the anticipated earnings gains to a combination of factors — including some modest
improvement in consumer demand, sharply lower cotton costs, and prices that are now running
significantly higher than a year ago. A just-released forecast by Global Insight pretty much
reflects this brightening outlook. On the basic textile mill front — mainly, fibers and fabrics —
for example, analysts at this prestigious economic consulting firm see 2012 earnings jumping an
impressive 36 percent. And by 2013, another good gain is projected — with earnings rising above
levels prevailing in 2010, just before cotton quotes went through the roof. Even more significant,
this expected profit increase actually represents an improvement over the one Global Insight
presented just three months ago. At that time, a somewhat smaller 30-percent profit pickup was
being forecast for the current year. And the picture is equally upbeat for more highly fabricated
mill products like home furnishings and carpets — with solid gains anticipated for 2012 and 2013.
That’s again enough to push profits above pre-cotton-run-up 2010 levels. There’s even some good
news for the United States’ hard-pressed domestic apparel industry — with increases once again
expected to bring earning totals back above 2010 levels. In short, things are beginning to look up.
Or, put another way: There’s finally some light at the end of the tunnel.

BFgraph


Costs And Prices


As suggested above, much of the brighter profit picture just outlined can be attributed to
lower costs and firmer prices — a combination that is resulting in a diminishing cost-price
squeeze. The squeeze reached its height a year ago, when cotton, which accounts for as much as 40
percent of many clothing makers’ costs, spiraled to more than $2 per pound — more than double that
of a few months earlier. True, prices moved up in response, but not nearly enough to redress the
balance. The result: last year’s substantial profit declines. But now, the situation has improved
substantially. Cotton has returned to near its pre-run-up levels, and both textile and apparel
prices are currently running better than 5 percent above year-ago levels. More importantly, odds
are this improved scenario will continue for some time. On the cost front, for example, early 2012
cotton production reports would seem to suggest an ample supply of this key fiber. And as for
prices, while some discounting could well crop up as the year progresses, overall 2012 tags should
manage to pick up some additional small gains. Right now, for example, basic textile mill product
prices could move up another 2 to 3 percent. Factors behind this relatively upbeat price forecast
include: somewhat less competition from imports, where high costs continue to plague overseas
producers — especially in China, where double-digit pay hikes are often the norm; and better
overall demand. On the latter score, U.S. textile mill activity this year, after correcting for
inflation, looks to be up about 1 to 2 percent — making for the third straight year of small gains.


A Longer Look Ahead


Go out a few more years, and again, the outlook doesn’t seem all that bad. To be sure,
today’s basically small mill and apparel output gains may eventually peter out. On the other hand,
there’s little to suggest any further major shrinkage — certainly nothing like some of the
double-digit declines of the past decade. Global Insight’s further-out 2014-16 projections, for
example, point to only small annual production falloffs for both basic textile mill products — 3
percent — and apparel — 4 to 5 percent. And there could be some fractional gains for more highly
fabricated textile mill products over this extended period — primarily because of an expected
housing pickup at that time. All of the above are numbers the industry could live with, given both
an improved cost-price structure, and the continuing development of new, improved and more
profitable niche products that should be coming on stream over the next few years. All this shows
up in Global Insight’s newly revised profit projections for this period. In all three subsectors,
earnings are expected to remain the same or even move slightly ahead of those projected for 2012
and 2013. True, such more-distant forecasts are always more iffy than those made for the next year
or two. But statistically speaking, based on all of today’s available information, they point to
the most likely results. And no matter how you slice it, that’s a positive sign.

April 2012

Textile Printing In A More Sustainable Way

Like any industrial process, textile printing requires raw materials, consumes energy and produces
waste. Nonetheless, there is considerable scope for reducing the impact of the process and helping
ensure it is carried out in a more responsible and sustainable way.

At Stork Prints BV, the Netherlands, activities to reduce the impact of the printing process
fall generally into five distinct categories: more sustainable consumables such as screens; greater
process efficiency; longer equipment lifespan; adherence to strict legislation; and fundamental
research and development (R&D) into sustainability-related issues. Following is a look at each
of these categories.


Cleaner Consumables


Any advances Stork Prints makes in the production and use of its screens can have a
significant impact because of the screens’ widespread use. There are three main areas in which
these screens differentiate themselves.

First of all, the lacquer used to coat the screens is chrome-free, so there’s no
contamination possible from this potentially hazardous material. Secondly, the holes in the
company’s NovaScreen®, which is made out of nickel because of its hardness, are also of a special
shape and size, so there’s less mechanical force required to push the printing paste through onto
the substrate. A major advantage of this unique feature is that considerably less nickel is
deposited on the textile being printed because there is less wear and tear. The screens also last
longer as a result.

In addition, the company has installed sophisticated wastewater treatment systems in its
screen production facilities throughout the world. In this way, regardless of whether the screens
are manufactured in countries such as the Netherlands, China, India, Brazil or the United States,
the water required during the process is carefully collected, purified and then used again.


More Efficient Printing Processes


Stork Prints has taken a number of measures in the design of both its conventional and its
digital printing machines to ensure reduced usage of energy, water and paste or ink.

  • Energy: An average printing line has a nominal power rating of approximately 75
    kilowatts, most of which is required for the drying process. A relatively high temperature has to
    be maintained inside the drying chamber, and the various vapors emitted as the textile dries have
    to be extracted. The company’s drying systems use a radial extraction technique that removes
    moisture while leaving more warmth in the chamber. This technique uses approximately 25-percent
    less energy than conventional systems, and also means customers can produce more quickly because
    the process is faster.
  • Water: The company uses recycled water to rinse the pumps and the printing
    blankets in its systems. In this way, water use is reduced by 65 percent – typically, to only 1.5
    cubic meters per hour (m3/hr) at 50-percent efficiency, compared to the 4 or 5 m3/hr consumed using
    certain other machines.
  • Paste: At the end of a printing run, there are still approximately 6 liters of
    printing paste in the system, predominantly in the tubes that run between the paste reservoirs and
    the screens. With most non-Stork Prints systems, this paste is simply rinsed out and flushed down
    the drain. But Stork Prints makes sure that around 80 percent of the printing paste is fed back
    into the reservoir.


Urea-free Printing


Reactive printing techniques are often used during the production of fashion textiles to
obtain more vivid colors. These techniques necessitate the use of urea for pre-treating the fabric
and in the printing paste. Urea produces carbon dioxide (CO2) during the steaming process, and also
has to be washed out of the fabric.

With Stork Prints’ Eco Foam Unit, there is no need for urea. Instead, special foam is used
to impregnate the fabric. This process maintains – and in some cases even improves – the fabric
color characteristics, produces less CO2 and requires a minimum amount of water. Because the fabric
doesn’t get so wet, the drying time and amount of energy required are reduced by approximately
half. Even the time required for steaming is 30- to 40-percent shorter, which also results in
energy savings.

StorkPrints

NovaScreen®: Stork Prints’ NovaScreen® rotary screens are made from nickel and combine a high
mesh count with minimum spacing between holes that are wider than holes on conventional screens,
resulting in lower paste usage and higher printing speeds as well as lower squeegee pressure, which
minimizes wear and provides sharper print results.



Using Water Instead Of Chemicals


To give another example, very aggressive acids typically are used to remove the lacquer from
screens after use, particularly in the Far East. This practice isn’t good for the environment, nor
is it good for workers exposed to these chemicals. Stork Prints’ processes, in comparison, use
high-pressure water.


Substantial Savings Through Digital Engraving


There are also several sustainability-related advantages of direct laser (digital)
engraving. The turnaround time for screens is much shorter – typically only 15 minutes for the
company’s bestLEN, which means less energy is required. It also saves water; when using traditional
wet processes like digital wax or ink, screens have to be developed immediately after exposure,
which requires approximately 250 liters of water per screen. This is no longer necessary with Stork
Prints’ direct laser engraving.


Longer Equipment Lifespan


One of the most crucial contributions you can make as a capital equipment manufacturer is to
ensure that your products remain productive for as long as possible. Stork Prints provides
maintenance and spare parts for its printing machines for at least 20 years, and there are numerous
examples from around the world of its RD4 and RD3HD machines that are more than 35 years old and
still going strong – and still receive the company’s ongoing support and service.


Conforming To Strict Legislation


With Europe renowned for its strict environmental legislation, the company is subjected to
stringent and regular checks. In the Netherlands, for example, its screen production processes are
regularly audited by various organizations such as the fire brigade, the regional environmental
bureau, and health and safety. Worldwide, Stork Prints always makes a point of conforming to the
local regulations or its own internal standards, whichever are higher.


Ongoing Research To Further Reduce The Impact


The company also carries out fundamental R&D in a number of areas. For instance, even
though the levels of nickel and chrome in its screens are well below the permitted concentration
levels, alternatives are nonetheless under investigation so as to eliminate these potentially
hazardous substances altogether. The company is also working on screen-stripping concepts that
don’t require any chemicals. And, in addition to seeking constant improvement in its own
activities, Stork Prints also encourages its customers to adopt more socially responsible
manufacturing practices.


Joost Smits is managing director, Textile, and Geert Klaassen is consumables manager at Stork
Prints BV, the Netherlands.


April 17, 2012

Sponsors