US BioDesign Offers Services To Medical Device Customers

US BioDesign, Perkasie, Pa., has opened its doors to offer original equipment manufacturing (OEM)
services to the medical device industry. The company will focus on custom designing implantable
textile constructs made of polymeric and/or metallic raw materials for cardiovascular, orthopedic,
general surgery and neurological device applications.

The new company is led by president and CEO Tom Molz and Chief Technology Officer Skott
Greenhalgh, Ph.D., who in 2002 founded Secant Medical LLC — a developer and manufacturer of woven,
knitted and braided custom biomedical textile structures for medical devices, formed as a
subsidiary of Perkasie-based Prodesco Inc. Prodesco and Secant Medical were acquired by United
Kingdom-based Fenner Plc in 2008.

In 2006, Molz and Greenhalgh founded Stout Medical Group, also based in Perkasie, to develop
technologies for the medical device industry.

“All of our competitors are textile companies first, medical companies second,” Molz said.
“These competitors often quote multiple samples to solve their customer’s problem, taking
considerable time and charging significant development fees for these activities. US BioDesign is
set up on day one to be a medical company first and a textile company second. We realize the
importance of working with our customer to support their medical device – quickly and efficiently.”

“US BioDesign has designed and acquired some very unique equipment, including the world’s
largest medical braiding machine,” Greenhalgh said. “With this equipment and the strong skills of
our employees, all industry veterans, we are able to provide many specialized product solutions to
our customers.”

November/December 2011

Barcelona: Center Of The Textile Universe In 2011

For nearly two weeks, Barcelona, Spain, was not only the capital city of Cataluña, but also the
capital city of the textile world. Three main events challenged one another: the annual conference
of the International Textile Manufacturers Federation, (ITMF), Sept. 19-20, 2011; the World Textile
Summit the day before ITMA 2011, featuring keynote speaker Kofi Annan, former secretary-general of
the United Nations (UN); and ITMA itself, which took place for the first time in Barcelona, from
September 22 to 29. It is not quite certain whether this massive array of events was for the good
or the bad.

One can say that ITMA Europe confirmed its importance as the number-one performance show of
the global textile machinery industry. The extended chapters are an indication of the trend toward
verticalization in the textile industry. This development was confirmed by exhibitors mainly from
the fiber/yarn and fabric sectors as well as finishing.

ITMAshowfloor

ITMA 2011, held at the Fira de Barcelona Gran Via, presented 1,350 exhibitors showing their
products and services to more than 100,000 visitors from 138 countries.


ITMF Conference


Exactly 100 years ago, the first ITMF conference took place in Barcelona. At this year’s
event, under the motto “New Paradigms in the Global Textile Industry,” it was quite fascinating to
see that those in the inner circle of the global textile industry are changing their minds about
their businesses and the future of the planet. Such thoughts were inconceivable at the same event
some 10 years earlier. Shortages of water, food and power; and reduced wastewater were just a few
of the topics discussed and presented in Barcelona. Nick Earlam, chairman of Plexus Cotton Ltd.,
United Kingdom, mentioned that cotton is heavily in competition with food and crops such as soy and
corn. “Food before fiber,” as he said, becomes very important, mainly for the Third World, as the
population grows and people need food. Recently, the world welcomed the 7 billionth global citizen.
Earlam predicted that cotton will be much more expensive in the future. “In the next 10 years, we
[will be] moving from an overproduction scenario to an overconsumption scenario,” he added.


Connectivity


Other lecturers emphasized the importance of sustainable production, using key expressions
such as more productivity per unit area of land, optimized use of chemicals, and improved fiber
quality and processing. Natural fibers are competing heavily with man-made fibers, some people
said, but this could be the wrong point of view. Different applications require different fiber
materials. If the fibers go together and combine their advantages, the natural fiber world will
survive in the long run. And, said one speaker, in today’s world of connectivity, nongovernmental
organizations (NGOs) are becoming more important to deal with. They can ask instantly the following
questions: Why is a product developed? How is it produced? Where is it produced? If a company can’t
answer these questions immediately, in the near future, it will be in trouble. NGOs can mobilize
millions of people right away through the Internet.


World Textile Summit


The day after the ITMF conference, the first World Textile Summit took place. Of course,
everybody was waiting for the highlight of this event: former UN Secretary-General Kofi Annan, who
served from 1997 up to 2006. For many thousands years, Annan said, textiles have been on the way to
globalization. “We are all in the same boat, even in a cruise ship, and we have to take care for
our planet,” he added. He called on the leaders of the textile industry to take responsibility for
their jobs and their people. Welfare is the key to a better world, not poverty. “Doing good is good
for the business,” he said.

ITMASummitAnnan

Former United Nations Secretary-General Kofi Annan delivered the keynote address at the World
Textile Summit, held the day before the opening of ITMA 2011.

Annan mentioned the old statement that the cotton industry is responsible for 25 percent of
all pesticides used on this planet. This provoked intense opposition from the cotton industry
leaders who were present, as did his statement that the textile industry is the second-biggest user
after agriculture of water, chemicals and other inputs. People from the cotton trade noted that all
of these figures are prejudiced and should not be mentioned anymore, and definitely not by an elder
statesman like Kofi Annan. He challenged the audience by saying: “OK, go and tell us the truth
about it.” At the end of his statement, he mentioned that free and fair trade and transparency are
vital for the further development of the Third World, including the abolishment of subsidies for
cotton in the Western world.


ITMA 2011


The greatest textile show on earth took place September 22-29. It was an event full of
unexpected successes. None of the exhibitors interviewed by Textile World expected such a positive
ITMA Europe 2011. Edda Walraf and Reto Thom of Rieter Ltd., Switzerland, confirmed the show’s
success by mentioning the very high quality of visitors. Hermann Selker of Trützschler GmbH &
Co. KG, Germany, said his company welcomed virtually only decision-makers. André Wissenberg of
Oerlikon Textile GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, mentioned that the visitors were very well prepared
and visitor quality was excellent.

But not only were the spinning people pleased, the manufacturers of finishing machinery such
as Regine Brückner, of Brückner Trockentechnik GmbH & Co. KG, Germany; Thomas Archner of Fong’s
Europe GmbH, Germany; and Klaus A. Heinrichs of A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG,
Germany, underlined the show’s success. Heinrichs said that three days before the closing of the
show, Monforts already had 20-percent more visitors than in Munich in 2007. All interviewed people
confirmed that their expectations for ITMA Europe in Barcelona were entirely fulfilled, or even
exceeded.


Global Show Without China


It was no surprise among the exhibitors interviewed by TW that very few Chinese visitors came
to see the latest innovations. There are some reasons for the absence of the big player in the
textile industry: One is the upcoming ITMA Asia + CITME next year in Shanghai. Other reasons
mentioned by the exhibitors are the recent unpredictable financial market and some visa
restrictions. However, the other Asian countries and the rest of the world were in Barcelona.
Bringing together the visitors’ countries named by all those interviewed, India, Pakistan,
Bangladesh, Turkey, Brazil and other Latin American countries were at the top of the charts, but
people also came from Western Europe — mainly from Germany and Spain — as well as from the Middle
East.

Nevertheless, for all of the interviewed exhibitors, the European market is still an
important one — even more for technical fabrics and nonwovens. But 70 to 80 percent of all exported
equipment goes to Asian countries such as China, India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Indonesia.
However, for most of the suppliers, this percentage is not that important anymore because they all
have their own domestic production sites in China and/or India.


New Machinery


So what was new? Frankly speaking, not much, with some exceptions, if one looks at spinning,
knitting and finishing. More detailed information about the technology and special features of the
machinery presented at ITMA 2011 is published in separate articles.


Spinning


Walraf mentioned the new Rieter air-jet machine and a new rotor spinning machine as well as a
second-generation large card. This concept has become standard over the last few years. The top
runner, Thom said, was the air-jet machine.

Selker was happy with the excellent feedback for Trützschler’s new TC 11 card, which is said
to produce 40-percent more than other recent cards. He also mentioned the new foreign material
detector SP-FPU, which works with three different sensor types to extract virtually all foreign
material.

Wissenberg noted that the new Autocoro 8 was Oerlikon Schlafhorst’s top exhibit in terms of
technology and feedback from the visitors. “Energy saving is another topic,” he said. “Quality as
such is not the issue, but how to produce high quality in a tight or small place is important.”


Knitting


One of the few true innovations was presented by Mayer & Cie. GmbH & Co. KG, the
Germany-based producer of circular knitting machines. The spinitsystems circular knitting machine
has a cylinder diameter of 30 inches and gauge of E28. The idea is to avoid traditional spinning by
replacing conventional yarn with roving, having a yarn count of Ne 0.7. There are 90 feeders, and
the nominal speed of the knitting machine is said to be 30 revolutions per minute. The machine was
presented in a closed room to a limited number of people, and isn’t ready yet to go on the market.


Finishing


Archner mentioned that automation is the top issue at Fong’s. Most of the company’s finishing
machinery is further equipped with automation to reduce energy, labor costs and, of course, water
and chemicals. In this context, he mentioned the updated model of the Fong’s Jumboflow. However,
the highlight was the Then-AIRFLOW® LOTUS with an L-shaped body. This long-shape machine can
process lightweight material containing up to 50-percent elastane.

For Monforts, heat recovery is one of the hot issues. Heinrichs explained the company’s
automated intelligent system as well as the Matex Eco-applicator. This is an instrument that is
built in just before the dryer element to keep the fabrics as dry as possible.

Brückner mentioned that her company’s new Power Frame Eco drying system was the top runner at
the Brückner booth. “The feedback was extremely elevated thanks to the high level of energy saving
and superior production for lower costs,” she said.


Some Problems And Bottlenecks


Overall, ITMA 2011 was a success. However, some negative points were mentioned by the
interviewed exhibitors. For example, the structure of the halls was not appropriate. There were no
clear signs on the ceilings of the halls. The most significant complaint was made by exhibitors who
had large booths. These companies were placed along the walls, which made, so they said, no sense;
and the decision to arrange the exhibits in that way was said to be rather strange.

And there is still the strange fact that absolutely nobody among the interviewed people likes
the fact that ITMA Asia is held every two years. “But what can we do?” one exhibitor said to TW,
“We have to be there, and it’s ITMA owner CEMATEX [the European Committee of Textile Machinery
Manufacturers] that decides, and not we, the involved people.”


ITMA 2015


The next ITMA Europe will be in Milan in 2015. The press left the presentation announcing
Milan as the location of ITMA Europe in 2015 with some mixed emotions. It will take place later in
the year — November 12-19 — at the Fiera Milano (Rho). None of the interviewed people – not only
the exhibitors but also visitors – likes this timing. And now, everybody can prepare for the next
ITMA, this time in Shanghai. It’s just a few months away, in June 2012.

November/December 2011

ITMA Technology: Circular And Warp Knitting

Knitting technology continues to expand the capabilities for conversion of fiber and yarns into
knitted products. This review of ITMA 2011 looks at major developments that knitting machinery
firms are planning to advance the state of the art. Obviously, there are developments that have
improved capabilities such as production speed and production efficiency, and

Textile World
 will review several examples. Other developments continue to push the limits of technology
still further in the relentless pursuit of finer and finer fabrics, but these developments are
clearly focused on one firm —
Groz-Beckert KG. Then,

TW
 got to see the knitting inventors that continue to integrate parts of the process that
heretofore have not been accomplished.


Gauge


The finer and finer gauge is being pursued by both the circular and warp knitting sectors.
Finer gauge means finer and more reliable knitting components — especially needle beds, cylinders
and needles. Last ITMA saw the introduction of a 60-gauge circular knitting machine, and this has
since found application in performance fabrics for activewear. This ITMA,
Santoni S.p.A., Italy, showed an 80-gauge machine. The Santoni Atlas was operating
at a 30-inch diameter and 80 needles per inch, with a total of 7,536 needles in the cylinder. At
these finer gauges, there is not space for the traditional sinker, so the sinker has been
eliminated and replaced by special holding-down jacks. This has the added advantage of avoiding the
creation of sinker lines, which can be a problem when knitting fine-gauge.

SantoniAtlas

The Santoni Atlas 80-gauge circular knitting machine’s patented system uses Groz-Beckert
technology and produces a tighter knit compared to traditional knits.

Germany-based Groz-Beckert showed another fine-gauge machine with 80 needles per inch. The
company has developed the ability to make needles that knit at normal knitting speeds and also has
the technology to make cylinders that can accommodate the finer-gauge needles. Groz-Beckert and
Santoni are working on a 90-gauge machine in 30-inch diameter that has 8,472 needles and 88 feeds.
Groz-Beckert had on display a 90-gauge cylinder for which the needle width is only 0.18
millimeters.

It may also be interesting to note that Groz-Beckert has developed a cylinder removal tool
called CylinderMaster, designed for machines with diameters larger than 26 inches. The main purpose
is to be able to remove cylinders easily as well as prevent handling damage, especially for the
finer-gauge cylinders.



Mayer & Cie. GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, showed the MJ3.2 E DNS 60-gauge
jacquard — claimed to be the first fine-gauge jacquard machine, according to company representative
Axel Brunner. The machine with 48 feeds and 30-inch diameter operates at 20 revolutions per minute
(rpm) and has the standard three-way knitting technique. It is equipped with the open-width fabric
system to avoid center creases on these fine-gauge fabrics. Mayer & Cie. also has introduced
temperature control for the knitting zone by using a water-temperature-controlled system to ensure
precise and reliable needle selection mechanisms.

Warp knitting machinery manufacturers also showed interest in developing finer-gauge
equipment.
Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH, Germany, exhibited a 50-gauge tricot
machine, HKS 2-3 E, operating at 3,200 rpm and producing elastomeric fabric using 20-decitex
spandex and targeted for the lingerie market. According to Tim Wollnik of Karl Mayer, this is the
first and finest-gauge tricot machine. He said this is the type of machine used by firms such as
Belgium-based NV Marcel Liebaert for its lingerie fabrics.

Of course, one should compare the production rates of weft and warp knitting, and one way is
to look at the number of knitted loops produced each minute. For the 90-gauge Santoni 30-inch
diameter operating at, say, 30 rpm and 88 feeds, the machine produces 22,366,080 loops per minute.
Karl Mayer’s tricot with 130-inch width, 50 gauge and 3,200 rpm produces 20,800,000 loops per
minute, or slightly less than the number of loops per minute for the fine-gauge weft knitting
machines. Clearly, there are additional factors that dictate knitting system choice, but one can
expect the loop production rate to increase as finer gauges and higher speeds occur. However, for
fine-gauge knitting, warp and weft loop production rates converge.



Improved Production Rate And Efficiency

Improved production rate has come from higher speed almost across the board.
Vanguard Pai Lung LLC, Monroe, N.C., showed its SJ4A-DI3 Super Jumbo machine
operating at 1,750 speed factor, which is 58 rpm for a 30-inch-diameter machine. This speed factor
applies for machines in the 14- to 24-needles-per-inch range, and 1,500 speed factor for 28-cut
machines. The SJ4A-DI3 employs a closed-cam track system that ensures positive needle control and
provides consistent stitch definition. The jersey machine is equipped with angular sinker
technology to improve fabric quality and lower the defect rate, even at the highest speeds. The
Delta machine is equipped with a patented three-level sinker cam designed for high-speed knitting.
Vanguard has also increased the size of the fabric roll that can be produced to approximately 500
pounds. This size enables batch processing of the fabric with a single doff and without the need
for bolt-end seaming in finishing, according to Matthew Yates of Vanguard Pai Lung. Vanguard also
showed high-speed 4-inch-diameter rib and 5-inch-diameter jersey machines. These small-diameter
machines are made for production of fabrics used in the apparel, industrial, medical and packaging
industries, Yates said.

Mayer & Cie. has improved the Relanit 4.0 to achieve speeds of up to 70 rpm, according to
Brunner. Relanit 4.0, with four feeds per diametrical inch, is available in gauges from 18 to 28
and in diameters from 24 to 36 inches. A 15-inch-diameter machine is available on request. As a
component of improving productivity, the Relanit has been equipped with the Mayer Cleaning System,
which uses ambient air to provide a cam cleaning role as well as to keep lint and dirt from
entering the cam and needle area. Improvements have also been made to the positive feed system for
the knitting yarn. The fabric take-up system can accommodate a 230-kilogram roll, allowing a longer
knitting time between doffs.

Mayer & Cie. also showed a new striping machine that efficiently produces striped or
basic fabrics on the same machine. According to Brunner, the S4-3.2R produces striped fabrics in
four and six colors across 1.6 feeds per inch. As long as all feeds are striping, the machine uses
1.6 feeds per diametrical inch. However, if a part of the fabric is non-striped, those feeds can
knit with 3.2 feeds per inch; or when striped fabrics are not needed, the machine can produce basic
fabrics using the 3.2 feeds per diametrical inch. This approach provides an optimized solution for
increased production as well as a more flexibly configured knitting system. The S4-3.2R is
available in 24-, 30-, and 34-inch cylinders and from 18 to 36 gauge.



Mec-Mor, now included in the
Santoni Group, showed a circular machine in 14 gauge as part of its move to
sportswear, according to Patrick Silva Szatkowski, marketing manager for Santoni. This machine can
produce fabric for one polo shirt in 3.5 minutes, making it one of the most productive sportswear
fabric machines, he said.


Mattress Ticking Machines


The use of knit fabrics for mattress ticking continues to be an important market for knitting
machine builders. Mayer & Cie.’s OVJA 1.6 EM and 1.6 EE machine models have been configured in
larger cylinder diameters — including 38 and 42 inches for the OVJA 1.6 EM, and 48 inches for the
OVJA 1.6 EE — in gauges from 18 to 20 for the OVJA 1.6 EM and 18 to 28 for the OVJA 1.6 EE. While
both models are electronic, the OVJA 1.6 EE has full electronic control of both cylinder and dial
needles. The short changeover time offers the possibility for smaller batches, according to
Brunner, as well as the production of large batches when applicable.



Terrot GmbH, Germany, showed model UP592M, a 38-inch-diameter 20-gauge machine using
a mini-jacquard selection system on the cylinder, for knitting mattress ticking. This model
typically can produce 60.9 meters per hour of mattress ticking fabric weighing 282 grams per square
meter.

Knitting machines for mattress ticking are getting larger in diameter to satisfy the width
requirements for the larger-size mattresses.


Seamless Knitting


The Santoni Group has continued to advance knitting technology and offered many examples of
new ways to make seamless garments. Santoni model SM8-TR1 now offers transfer on a single-jersey
machine. Other knitting capabilities are available thanks to the eight feeds on the same course,
including knit-miss-tuck plus fishnet or anti-drop stitch structures or pattern with floated yarn.
The set-up can be two technical ways — such as knit and miss — plus fishnet or anti-drop structures
with the possibility of inlaid knit work on all feeds. The capability of the machine is limited
only by the imagination of those fortunate to work with one.

Of special interest in the small-diameter knitting sector was Italy-based
Sangiacomo‘s model HT2 for the production of true heel-and-toe socks. The HT2 is a
two-feed, 3.75-inch or 4.0-inch machine with eight striper units and eight electronic needle
selection stations so that the designer can have individual needle selection on any part of the
sock. The machine produces a sock every 2 minutes 15 seconds. The special development from
Sangiacomo is the onboard toe linking unit, according to company representative Sergio Zanoni. Once
the sock is knitted, it is turned and placed on the onboard linking unit, the toe is linked, and
the completed sock is ready. Although the toe-closing operation has been substantially automated,
it still involves operator loading and a separate batch process. This new development of onboard
linking offers an integrated approach and combines and automates several labor-intensive steps at
the knitting stage.

While warp knitting has had technology to produce garments for some years, there is evidence
that this approach is receiving new attention. Karl Mayer showed Model DJ 6/2 with six needle bars
in 44-inch width and 28 gauge for the production of jacquard seamless garments and shapewear by
selectively placing elastic in areas of the garment that require extra support. Santoni also showed
its warp-knit seamless machines including SWD 4/2J four- bar and SWD 6/2J six-bar 44-inch-wide
machines in 24 gauge. As noted earlier, there are productivity gains if a portion of the seamless
market can be converted to double-needle-bar warp knitting when the loop production rate is higher
for a warp-knitting approach than for a weft-knitting approach.


More Integration


In addition to the type of integration offered by Sangiacomo, other knitting machine
producers showed integration from a different perspective. Mayer & Cie. is developing a
machine, dubbed spinitsystems, that backward-integrates into the spinning process
(See “ITMA Technology: Staple Spinning,”). The circular single-jersey machine houses
roving bobbins in the place of yarn packages and spins the yarn on the knitting machine, Brunner
said. The spinning system is air-jet and can spin yarn from 40 to 70 Nm. As is well-known, yarn
delivery speeds from air-jet spinning systems can reach 450 meters per minute, which far exceeds
the rate of yarn demand by a knitting zone. The machine is equipped with sensors that detect when
the roving runs out, and it can electronically remove that feed from knitting until the new roving
is in place and producing yarn again. A yarn vacuum system prevents unused yarn from contaminating
the other knitting zones or the fabric. The concept has merit — especially the flexibility to
change yarn size both within the fabric and between fabric styles. Further, it offers the
capability to produce short runs with a designated yarn size or as a R&D tool for fabric
development. Equipment to produce or transport roving is needed to be able to load this type of
knitting machine, and a reliable supply of air is required to operate the spinning system.

Vanguard Pai Lung has also entered this area of integration and has built a machine that uses
sliver instead of roving. The machine was at ITMA, but behind closed doors.

Clearly, this type of integration heralds a new era for the entire textile complex,
especially the ability to spin on the knitting machine. This raises the question as to whether
spinners will become knitters or knitters will become spinners. Either way, it’s time to build a
strategic model for knit fabric production as the industry goes forward.


More To Come

Advances from the knitting sector continue at an impressive rate. In addition to the
innovations highlighted in the circular and warp knitting sectors, there were many additional
developments at the exhibition, and those merit a separate discussion that will be included in a
future issue of

TW.

November/December 2011

Three Upbeat Signs

The latest government numbers on prices, imports and industry capacity are providing some modestly
encouraging news for U.S. textile and apparel manufacturers. Looking at prices first: Rising quotes
in recent months have helped offset some bottom-line pressures stemming from the recent run-ups in
cotton and other costs. Clearly, the impressive 13-percent increase in the price of basic mill
products such as yarns and fabrics over the past 12 months can’t be underestimated. In the greige
goods subsector, there’s a 17-percent jump. To be sure, advances in more highly fabricated mill
products haven’t been quite as large. Nevertheless, the increases here — 7 percent for both carpets
and home furnishings — have been enough to at least narrow the cost-price squeeze. Even the
extremely competitive apparel sector has managed to eke out a modest 4-percent increase over the
past year. True, not all the above price boosts are all that big, and overall increases haven’t
been nearly enough to prevent some profit erosion. However, they do mark a major change from the
previous decade or so, when textile/apparel price averages inched up at a less-than-1-percent
annual rate. More important, today’s higher tags have helped buffer domestic mills and clothing
manufacturers from any significant losses. Indeed, combine expectations of continuing relatively
firm prices with the current sharp drop-off in cotton costs, and industry earnings could well begin
to head higher again — if not this quarter, then certainly by early next year.

BFND11graph


An Improving Import Picture


Other encouraging signs come from gradual changes taking place in U.S. imports of textile
and apparel products. First, there’s this year’s small decline in incoming shipments. Based on
latest data, volume totals look to be down about 1.5 percent. While hardly huge, it marks a vast
improvement over the big increases posted over the past decade or so, when a steady tattoo of
double-digit annual gains pretty much decimated many U.S. mills and factories. Credit the slowdown
to a variety of factors: the fact that foreign producers already have captured virtually all
vulnerable U.S. markets; a modest narrowing in the overseas cost advantage; and increasing
sophistication on the part of U.S. firms, which have become a lot more savvy in producing and
marketing their products. Equally important for the U.S. industry’s continued health is a shift in
overseas sourcing away from China and other Far Eastern nations and more toward Western Hemisphere
sources. This year’s imports from China look to be off by about 2.5 percent, while incoming
shipments from the Americas are up about 2 percent. This kind of change in sourcing should help
increase demand for U.S. mill products. Indeed, that could be one reason why, despite the sluggish
economy, domestic mill shipments of these products are running more than 4-percent above 2010
levels.


Capacity Levels Stabilize


The fact that shrinkage in U.S. textile/apparel production potential has been slowing down
can also be regarded as an indication of better days ahead. According to latest government
statistics, mill capacity has been dropping only about 2.5 percent annually since 2009 — close to
half the 4.5-percent annual decline reported over the previous six years. And this changing pattern
is even more pronounced in the apparel sector, where the 2-percent annual declines over the past
few years are not even within shooting distance of the 8-percent-per-year slippages reported over
the 2002-09 period. This new flattening out in the textile/apparel capacity curve is occurring at
the same time many companies are continuing to close down their older, more obsolete facilities. Do
the math and it’s clear something else is being added to replace these shutdowns. And that
something is new plant and equipment, which

Textile World
 now estimates at the mill level is coming on-stream at near a $1 billion-a-year clip –
the equivalent of 2 cents of every mill sales dollar. And the picture is even more encouraging in
the apparel sector, where capital spending per dollar of sale is nearly 2.5 percent. If nothing
else, this continuing investment seems to suggest that U.S. companies are fairly confident about
their industries’ future. Indeed, it’s part and parcel of their overall strategy: The building of a
leaner and meaner industry — one ready, willing and able to compete in today’s dog-eat-dog
marketplace.

November/December 2011

AAFA Applauds House Vote To Protect U.S. Jobs

ARLINGTON, Va. — December 1, 2011 — American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) President
and CEO Kevin M. Burke welcomed yesterday’s 235-188 vote by the U.S. House of Representatives to
approve the Workforce Democracy and Fairness Act (H.R. 3094), legislation that would guarantee a 35
day period of time before a union election can be held in the workplace. The bill now goes to the
U.S. Senate for consideration.

“The decision to unionize in the workplace should be made on sound reasoning. The Workforce
Democracy and Fairness Act passed by the House yesterday will provide workers ample time to make an
informed decision and a fair election process for employers. This is win-win legislation.

“I applaud the House for acting on this important legislation. I urge the Senate to quickly
pass this legislation that eliminates a barrier to job creation.”



Posted on December 5, 2011

Source: AAFA

IFAI Announces The 2011 International Achievement Award Winners

ROSEVILLE, Minn. — October 26, 2011 — The Industrial Fabrics Association International (IFAI) 2011
International Achievement Awards (IAA) for design excellence in specialty fabrics applications
ceremony took place at IFAI Expo Americas 2011 at the Baltimore Convention Center in Baltimore, Md.
on October 25.  The annual IFAI Expo Americas is the largest specialty fabrics trade show in
the Americas, and for more than six decades, IAA has recognized excellence in design and
innovation, highlighting truly spectacular work in the specialty fabrics industry.

Entrants were encouraged to submit projects and compete in 35 categories in this 64th
competition. In all, IFAI received 385 entries from 16 countries. Entries were judged by industry
experts, editors, architects, educators and design professionals, who were selected for their
knowledge in a particular field of study or product area. Winners were selected based on
complexity, design, workmanship, uniqueness and function.

IFAI encourages specialty fabric projects of all sizes and type. The goal of IAA is to
promote awareness of the specialty fabrics used in thousands of products and applications. All
entries receive prominent recognition at IFAI Expo Americas. Entrants receive additional publicity
through coverage in IFAI magazines, as well as press releases distributed to media
professionals.  

The International Achievement Awards competition is sponsored by IFAI, a not-for-profit trade
association whose 2,000 member companies represent the international specialty fabrics marketplace.

The following is a complete list of award winners by category. Photos and detailed project
descriptions of the winners are available at
ifaipublications.com/iaa/.

Tensile Structures, Under 600 Square Meters (6458 Square Feet)

 

Award of Excellence

Fabritecture

Kingscliff, NSW, Australia

126: Eagle Street Pier, Brisbane  

Outstanding Achievement Award

Fabric Architecture Ltd.

Gloucester, United Kingdom

102: Manchester City Football Stadium ‘Xtage’



Outstanding Achievement Award

Cidelsa

Lima, Peru

111: District Department of Environment  



Outstanding Achievement Award

Oasis Tension Structures (Australia) Pty Ltd.

Melbourne, Australia

130: Melbourne Girls Grammar School

Tensile Structures, 600-2300 Square Meters (6458-24,756 Square Feet) 



Award of Excellence

Cidelsa

Lima, Peru

211: Metro Uper Station  

Outstanding Achievement Award

FTL Design Engineering Studio

New York, NY, United States

204: United Nations Interim Porte Cochere

Outstanding Achievement Award

Carpas Y Lonas El Carrousel S.A. de C.V.

Mexico City, Mexico

217: Tensostructure for Palacio De Mineria 

Tensile Structures, More Than 2300 Square Meters (24,756 Square Feet) 



Award of Excellence

Taiyo Europe GmbH

Sauerlach, Germany

304: Metro Mall Athens – Talima  

Outstanding Achievement Award

 Beijing N&L Fabric Technology Co., Ltd.

Beijing, China

314: Beijing Xi-er-qi Rapid Train Station



Outstanding Achievement Award

 Cidelsa

Lima, Peru

315: Del Sol Metro Intermodal Station



Frame-Supported Structures 

Award of Excellence

FabriTec Structures

Costa Mesa, CA, United States

408: Playa Vista Central Park Bandshell  

Outstanding Achievement Award

Covertex Membranes (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.

Shanghai, China

403: German-Chinese House for 2010 Shanghai Expo

Outstanding Achievement Award

Hightex Group PLC

London, United Kingdom

404: Nouvelle Gare Beval-Usines

Air Structures 

Award of Excellence

Lindstrand Technologies

Oswestry, United Kingdom

501: Helicopter Hangar (AS350)

Outstanding Achievement Award

 Air Structures American Technologies Inc.

Rye Brook, NY, United States

504: Rutgers University 

Commercial Awnings and Canopies, Less Than 112 Square Meters (1205 Square
Feet) 

Award of Excellence

Canfab Products Ltd.

Edmonton, AB, Canada

618: Princess Florence Handbags

Award of Excellence

 TensionStructures.com

Cerritos, CA, United States

616: Friendly Baptist Church  

Outstanding Achievement Award

Carroll Awning Co.

Baltimore, MD, United States

601: Parkridge Office Building

Outstanding Achievement Award

Camel Custom Canvas Shop

Knoxville, TN, United States

607: Knoxville Opera

Outstanding Achievement Award

 Miami Awning Co.

Miami, FL, United States

609: Bongos Cuban Cafe



Commercial Awnings and Canopies, More Than 112 Square Meters (1205 Square
Feet) 

Award of Excellence

Port Douglas Sailmakers Pty Ltd.

Port Douglas, OLD, Australia

711: Airport Beer Garden Canopy  

Outstanding Achievement Award

Carroll Awning Co.

Baltimore, MD, United States

702: Edenwald

Outstanding Achievement Award

MakMax Australia

Eagle Farm, OLD, Australia

708: Blacktown Village Green 

Residential Awnings and Canopies, Less Than 112 Square Meters (1205 Square
Feet) 

Award of Excellence

Awnings of Hollywood, Inc.

Hollywood, FL, United States

804: Curved BBQ Patio  

Outstanding Achievement Award

House of Canvas

Ottawa, ON, Canada

806: Curved Canopy, Kanata



Outstanding Achievement Award

Premier Awnings

Costa Mesa, CA, United States

808: Patio System  

Retractable Awnings and Canopies
 

Award of Excellence

Miami Awning Co.

Miami, FL, United States

1015: Cabana Beach Club at the Eden Roc Renaissance  

Outstanding Achievement Award

 BAT USA Corp.

Middletown, NY, United States

1008: 2040 in Montecarlo, France

Outstanding Achievement Award

Auvents OmbraSole

Montreal, QC, Canada

1010: Attico Awning 

Tensioned Awnings and Canopies 

Award of Excellence

TensionStructures.com

Cerritos, CA, United States

1108: St. Mary’s Academy

Outstanding Achievement Award

Eventstar Structures

Miami, FL, United States

1103: Dos Camino 

Free-Standing Structures, Under 112 Square Meters (1205 Square Feet) 

Award of Excellence

Shades (Thailand) Co., Ltd.

Phuket, Thailand

1204: Villa Sala  

Outstanding Achievement

Canvas Specialty

Los Angeles, CA, United States

1205: Wave Cabana, Private Home

Outstanding Achievement

WeatherSafe WA

Bunbury, Australia

1206: Punmu Basketball Court Cover



Free-Standing Structures, More Than 112 Square Meters (1205 Square Feet) 

Award of Excellence

 Fabritecture

Kingscliff, NSW, Australia

1307: Soul Surfers Paradise, Australia

Outstanding Achievement Award

 Fabric Architecture Ltd.

Gloucester, United Kingdom

1308: Manchester City Football Club Fan Pavilion

Outstanding Achievement Award

Carpas Y Lonas El Carrousel S.A. de C.V.

Mexico City, Mexico

1306: Bamboo Pavilion 

Exterior Shades and Screens 



Award of Excellence

Sunmaster of Naples, Inc.

Naples, FL, United States

1404: Minyard Built-In Retractable Screens



Outstanding Achievement Award

Lake Gaston Awning

Bracey, VA, United States

1410: Flip Up Shade 

Outstanding Achievement Award

BAT USA Corp.

Middletown, NY, United States

1415: Gennius A2 Lake of Garda 

Multiple Modular Structures

Award of Excellence

Fabric Architecture Ltd.

Gloucester, United Kingdom

1502: The Canopies at Dogs Trust



Fabric Graphics 

Award of Excellence

Rainier Industries

Tukwila, WA, United States

1607: The Experience Music Project Nirvana Exhibit

Outstanding Achievement Award

 Eventscape Inc.

Toronto, ON, Canada

1606: Discovery Place    

Fabric Art 



Award of Excellence

 Fabric Structure Systems

Whangarei, New Zealand

1716: Pou Manawa

Outstanding Achievement Award

MakMax Australia

Eagle Farm, OLD, Australia

1707: Trailfinders Australian Garden Presented by Flemings’

Outstanding Achievement Award

 Transformit

Gorham, ME, United States

1714: Installation Art and Wayfinding at Discovery Parks Vancouver   

Marine Powerboat Covers 



Award of Excellence

Nautilux Custom Canvas LLC

Hazlet, NJ, United States

1834: Lonely Tiara



Outstanding Achievement Award

Marine Concepts

Lees Summit, MO, United States

1830: 43 Dragon 

Marine Powerboat Tops – Soft Enclosures 

Award of Excellence

 Corrado’s Canvas & Cushions

Bristol, RI, United States

1939: Rendering to Reality

Outstanding Achievement Award

Bennett Custom Canvas Inc.

Toronto, ON, Canada

1942: Searay 40 Sundancer      



Marine Powerboat Tops – Hard Enclosures 

Award of Excellence

 Bev’s Canvas Covers

Waterford, MI, United States

2024: Camouflaged Duck Boat



Outstanding Achievement Award

SeaCanvas

Egg Harbor Township, NJ, United States

2028: Some Rigid/Some Soft 

Marine Upholstery 

Award of Excellence

Paul’s Custom Canvas, Inc.

Denver, CO, United States

2139: 32 Fountain

Outstanding Achievement Award

JSI/ Island Nautical

St. Petersburg, FL, United States

2136: Cool Cat



Outstanding Achievement Award

 Paul’s Custom Canvas, Inc.

Denver, CO, United States

2140: Starcraft Pontoon

Outstanding Achievement Award

Custom Canvas of Charleston

N. Charleston, SC, United States

2142: 190′ Perini Navi Exterior 

Marine Sailboats 

Award of Excellence

 Iverson’s Design

Olympia, WA, United States

2235: Sleek Enclosure Design



Outstanding Achievement Award

 Iverson’s Design

Olympia, WA, United States

2238: Galetea Make Over Project

Outstanding Achievement Award

Bennett Custom Canvas Inc.

Toronto, ON, Canada

2240: Catalina 34 

Party Tent Rental, Less Than 300 Meters Square (3229 Square Feet)

Award of Excellence

Mahaffey Fabric Structures

Memphis, TN, United States

2302: A Southern Kind of Wedding

Party Tent Rental, More Than 300 Meters Square (3229 Square Feet) 

Award of Excellence

EventQuip

Lansdale, PA, United States

2402: National Museum of American Jewish History



Outstanding Achievement Award

Chattanooga Tent Co.

Chattanooga, TN, United States

2405: White Wedding 

Tent Rental, More Than 300 Meters Square (3229 Square Feet) 

Award of Excellence

JK Rentals, Inc.

Kewaskum, WI, United States

2609: Cruise Ship Tenting

Outstanding Achievement Award

 ROEDER Zelt-und Veranstaltungsservice GmbH

Buedingen, Germany

2602: BMW International Open Munich 

Tent Manufacturing and Design 

Award of Excellence

The SEC Group

Wilsonville, OR, United States

2713: Main Stage Venue for Bard on the Beach Shakespeare Festival



Outstanding Achievement Award

Eventstar Structures

Miami, FL, United States

2715: Design Miami  2010

Outstanding Achievement Award

Roder HTS Hocker GmbH

Kefenrod, Germany

2719: The Absolute Structure 

Interior Display 



Award of Excellence

Moss Inc.

Elk Grove Village, IL, United States

2813: MTV Video Music Awards Stage Set



Outstanding Achievement Award

Pink Powered by Moss

New York, NY, United States

2803: The PowerStation

Outstanding Achievement Award

 Lawrence Fabric & Metal Structures, Inc.

St. Louis, MO, United States

2809: Schick Trade Show Exhibit 

Commercial Interiors 

Award of Excellence

Fabric Architecture Ltd.

Gloucester, United Kingdom

2904: Dublin Airport Terminal 2

Outstanding Achievement Award

Transformit

Gorham, ME, United States

2905: Daylighting Diffusers at the North Carolina Museum of Art 



Geosynthetic Projects 

Award of Excellence

TenCate Geosynthetics

Pendergrass, GA, United States

3001: Geotextile Reinforced Soil Retaining Wall for Hetaoyu Mine Coal Processing Plant 

Outstanding Achievement

Agru America, Inc.

Georgetown, SC, United States

3008: Timber Ridge Landfill Closure 

Outstanding Achievement

 ACE Geosynthetics

Taichung Hsien, Taiwan, Province of China

3011: Application of Complex Reinforced Structure Near Fault Zone 

Auto and Transportation Upholstery 

Award of Excellence

 CYA Canvas

Helena, MT, United States

3128: Distance Dogsled Bag



Outstanding Achievement Award

 Moonlight Upholstery

Saginaw, MI, United States

3125: 1967 El Camino 

Residential Upholstery 

Award of Excellence

Kipe’s Upholstery

Hagerstown, MD, United States

3209: Black & White Chair

Outstanding Achievement Award

 Buckminster Upholstery

Falls City, NE, United States

3204: 1945 Deco 

Safety and Technical Projects 

Award of Excellence

A&R Tarpaulins, Inc.

Fontana, CA, United States

3402: Fabric Engine Ventilation Covers

Outstanding Achievement Award

 Shelter Structures, Inc.

Phladelphia, PA, United States

3401: NASA Michoud Assembly Faciilty 



Miscellaneous 

Award of Excellence

Lindstrand Technologies

Oswestry, United Kingdom

3529: Delhi Aerostat  

Outstanding Achievement Award

 Canvasland Holdings Ltd.

Levin, New Zealand

3521: Waikato Museum T-Rex

Outstanding Achievement Award

 Daniel Slota

Berlin, Germany

3526: Obervation Tower Teichland

Posted on November 30, 2011

Source: IFAI

The Rupp Report: ITMA Flash III

It’s been a stormy week since last week’s ITMA Flash II about the Switzerland-based Rieter Group.
This time, the Rupp Report takes a look at Germany-based Oerlikon Textile GmbH & Co. KG and
talked to André Wissenberg, vice president, Marketing and Corporate Communications. As before, the
same questions were asked so that you, dear reader, may get a clear picture of the different
opinions and meanings regarding the recent ITMA 2011 in Barcelona, Spain. He also mentioned the
eternal issue that having an ITMA in Europe and Asia alternately every two years would be good
enough, for the simple and well-known reason that there are a lot of Asian exhibitions. But let’s
stick to ITMA 2011.

Positive Event

Wissenberg mentioned that most of the visitors came from India, Turkey, and Latin America in
general and Brazil and Argentina in particular; but also from Africa and Europe. The visitor
frequency was considered to be good, and Wissenberg described the visitors as being of outstanding
quality and well-prepared for the visit.

“Yes,” said Wissenberg, “our expectations were entirely fulfilled. However, for the next one
in Milano 2015, we see a lot of problems due to the late timing in November.” And how about the
importance of ITMA in Europe in the future? “Well, we are sure that Asia will play an even more
important role in the future for the conventional textile business,” he said. “Nearly 80 percent of
the business we generate is in Asia, and for man-made fibers, especially in Bangladesh.”

And how does Wissenberg see the importance of the textile markets in the near future? “For
Oerlikon Textile, it is clear: China and India lead the way, but the little tigers are further
closing the gap. Also Korea for the man-made fibers business is improving. India is taking every
effort to reduce the gap with China, but we are convinced that this will take at least five more
years.”

The actual economic situation is not distorting the business that much because of the fact
that Oerlikon Textile is producing a considerable amount of its equipment in Asia. “The only thing
that is somewhat disturbing the business is the volatility of the currencies,” he said.



Tremendous Feedback

The question about new products that were displayed for the first time was answered this way:
“We presented the new Autocoro 8 for the first time. The feedback was extremely positive,”
Wissenberg said. “Nevertheless, sustainability is also a big issue, and particularly saving energy.
Quality is not an issue or sales argument anymore; quality is a basic need to be successful. The
key issue is to produce the highest quality in the smallest possible space.

And what are the reasons for this success? “The Autocoro 8 is an extremely versatile machine,
also for small batches, achieving 30- to 40-percent more output, or productivity. When combined
with the spinning preparation equipment of one of our suppliers, our spinning and winding equipment
is very competitive on the market.”

Market Situation

The reported market situation for Oerlikon Textile is like that for other companies: “The
volatile currencies and the high raw material prices are in the focus of attention. Especially the
high raw material prices are difficult to handle, the whole situation seems to be out of any
control and unpredictable. However, we believe there is still a lot of potential for textiles,
particularly for technical textiles.”



A Look In The Crystal Ball

And what about next year? “The man-made fibers business is on a very high level,” Wissenberg
said. “Oerlikon Barmag is already fully booked. Equipment for staple fibers enjoys a high demand,
and overall, we are quite satisfied with the situation and the outlook for 2012.”

And what about ITMA Asia in 2012 and ITMA 2015 in Milan? “Well, of course, we will be present
in Shanghai next year. On the other hand, we think that we also will take part in 2015, although,
as I mentioned before, the timing is not very good.”

And how does Oerlikon Textile want to be present in the market in the next years? “Nobody is
sleeping,” Wissenberg said. “We have to be extremely alert, and show new innovations all the time
to be competitive against the Asian challengers. The top issue is still to shorten the production
time.”

Closing Down Europe (?)

This draft about ITMA 2011, and the interview with Wissenberg, was already prepared to get a
final editing, when parent company OC Oerlikon Management AG, Switzerland, announced it would
reorganize and simplify Oerlikon Textile’s structure and relocate its headquarters from Remscheid,
Germany, to Shanghai, with a new CEO, Singapore native Clement Woon, succeeding Thomas Babacan at
the helm. At the same time, R&D investment will increase, especially in Germany for continued
development of innovative technologies, but also in China for regional adaptation (See
“Oerlikon
Announces Reorganization Of Textile Segment,” www.
TextileWorld.com, November 22, 2011).



The Right Move (?)

There is no doubt that in the global textile market, the music is playing in Asia. However,
as many exhibitors said in Barcelona, Europe still holds the brain trust for most of the new
inventions. On the other hand, it will be interesting to see, considering the cultural differences
between Europeans and Asians, how the new setup will work. Other mergers or moves in the past few
years have shown the opposite of what Oerlikon Group CEO Dr. Michael Buscher is expecting: “With
this simplification of the organization, and a strong order book reaching into 2014, Oerlikon
Textile is positioned to benefit from long-term trends in the textile industry.”

November 29, 2011

Huntsman Opens Formulation And Distribution Center In Karachi

Singapore-based Huntsman Textile Effects has opened its 13th Formulation and Distribution Center in
Karachi, Pakistan. The 4,000-square-meter center features the latest equipment and technology and
is located in the Landhi Industrial Area, which was one of Pakistan’s first industrial states and
which houses numerous textile and chemical companies. Huntsman reports that Pakistan is a
fast-growing and increasingly important market for its textile chemicals.

“With the opening of our new low cost production facility for formulated chemicals in Karachi
to meet increasing local demand, we will considerably increase our competitiveness and flexibility
in textile chemicals in this key Asian textile market,” said Paul Hulme, president, Huntsman
Textile Effects.

Huntsman has been growing its presence in Pakistan through Swisstex Chemicals Pvt Ltd., its
exclusive distributor in the country. The company plans to develop competitive, locally sourced
formulated products, and will partner with Swisstex to increase business with its main textile
customers, particularly in the home textiles and specialty chemicals areas.

“Our well established partner Swisstex will continue to provide enhanced sales activities
enabling us to concentrate on all formulation and production aspects using our cutting edge
technology to develop innovative products and technologies, market solutions with intelligent
effects to this growing market,” Hulme said.

November 29, 2011

South Korea Passes KORUS

The South Korean National Assembly passed legislation last week ratifying the Korea-United States
free trade agreement (KORUS). After KORUS was passed by the U.S. Congress and signed by President
Barack Obama in October 2011, South Korea President Lee Myung-bak and his country’s ruling Grand
National Party had been attempting to get the agreement ratified, but had faced strong opposition
from several parties, mainly over the inclusion of an investor-state dispute settlement provision
as well as the agricultural impact on Korean farmers.

KORUS is the United States’ first FTA with a major Asian economy and the first since the
North America Free Trade Agreement with a country that has a large developed textile sector that
exports significant amounts of textile products to the United States. The U.S. textile and apparel
industry’s reaction to KORUS has been mixed. Proponents of KORUS, such as retailers and importers,
say the agreement would create jobs and reduce trade barriers, making it easier for U.S. companies
to export their goods overseas. Opponents of KORUS, such as U.S. textile manufacturers, charge that
rather than creating jobs, the FTA would result in continued outsourcing and destroy jobs, because
U.S. and Korean textile products are not treated equally under the agreement and removal of certain
textile enforcement measures would enable significant illegal duty-free transshipments of
Chinese-made goods. Additionally, KORUS requires the United States to reduce tariffs more quickly
than South Korea, and opponents are concerned this does not allow U.S. suppliers the chance to
adapt, and would favor the Korean industry in key products.

South Korea is the fifth-largest exporter of textile products to the United States, reports
the United States-based National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO); and the 10th-largest
market for U.S. textile and apparel exports, reports the U.S. Department of Commerce’s
International Trade Administration.

United States Trade Representative (USTR) Ambassador Ron Kirk issued the following statement
on South Korea’s passage of KORUS:

“The United States welcomes the Korean National Assembly’s approval of the KORUS FTA. This is
a win-win agreement that will provide significant economic and strategic benefits to both
countries. We look forward to working closely with the government of Korea to bring the agreement
into force as soon as possible.”

November 29, 2011

Teijin Fibers Develops Octa Hollow Polyester Fiber

Japan-based Teijin Fibers Ltd. has developed a hollow polyester fiber with eight lobes, giving its
cross-section an octopus-like appearance. The Octa fiber, targeted to fall and winter innerwear,
fashion apparel and other applications, will be available on the market beginning in April 2012.

The spaces between the projections, in addition to absorbing perspiration and contributing to
quick drying, add bulk without weight — with yarn weight approximately half that of yarns of
comparable thickness — and enhance the fiber’s insulation and heat-shielding properties, Teijin
reports. The company also notes that Octa can be combined with other fibers using processes such as
false twisting, combined filament processing and two-strand yarn spinning.


TeijinOcta


Teijin Fibers’ Octa eight-lobed hollow polyester fiber



November 29, 2011

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