Poole Co. Launches EcoSure® Full-Circle, ComFortrel By Poole

Poole Co., Greenville, now offers the EcoSure® Full-Circle Program to take back any item made
100-percent using its EcoSure 100-percent post-consumer recycled polyethylene terephthalate staple
fiber and recycle it again into new fiber. The program is targeted to textile distributors and
manufacturers.

The process can be repeated over and over, theoretically keeping the materials out of
landfills forever. EcoSure’s recycled fiber content has been certified under Emeryville,
Calif.-based Scientific Certification Systems’ SCS Recycled Content Certification Program.

In other news, Poole Co. reports its ComFortrel by Poole engineered copolymer polyester fiber
offers performance equal to or exceeding that of the original ComFortrel fiber previously offered
by Wellman Inc., which has gone out of business.

The new fiber can be dyed atmospherically at 212°F, potentially with reduced chemical usage.
Features include durability; easy care; good shape retention; fast-drying properties; shrink, fade
and wrinkle resistance; soft hand; and low pilling properties. Potential markets include
activewear, childrenswear, sportswear and hosiery.

November/December 2012

Cotton Market: Policy Versus Fundamentals

Unlike at any other time in recent memory, the global cotton market is caught in a tug-of-war
between opposing factors that increases price risk exposure, and threatens to keep fiber demand
deferred and supply chains disrupted. These two issues are simultaneously pushing and pulling the
cotton market, displacing market leaders, turning former competitors into customers, and shifting
sourcing patterns in unexpected directions. To be sure, myriad factors are at play. But two
overriding factors of policy and fundamentals are overshadowing the rest and are worthy of a
review.

Cotton1


Market Fundamentals From A Demand Perspective


Following last year’s unprecedented roller-coaster surge and collapse in global cotton
prices, once-bitten textile mills are twice shy in their current use of the fiber. Whether hesitant
to book more than the thinnest of coverage for immediate need or hesitant to shift back to
cotton-rich blends because of any price disparity with man-mades, mills worldwide generally remain
timid to use as much cotton as readily as in the past. Presently, the U.S. Department of
Agriculture (USDA) expects global cotton use will only reach 106.3 million bales this marketing
year, well below the 123.9 million-bale record set just a few years ago. What’s more, concern over
a deceleration in global economic growth this year is applying more brakes to prospects for world
cotton mill demand, suggesting the cotton use target may shrink even further in coming months.

Also following last year’s unprecedented roller-coaster surge and collapse in global cotton
prices, the global supply chain witnessed a gradual progression of price pressure moving
sequentially across the supply chain, from fiber to yarn spinners to knitters and weavers to
apparel manufacturers, and ultimately to the store shelf. This evolution of price pressure reached
U.S. shoppers earlier this year, when retail apparel prices surged 5.8 percent year-over-year, the
fastest jump in more than two decades. While retail apparel prices are still higher than a year
ago, evidence in the United States and other key retail markets suggests this price pressure is
exiting the supply chain. The impact on apparel is that, while the dollar value of garment sales in
the United States is set to expand impressively this year, the volume of garments sold is likely to
expand at a tepid pace. A similar trend is occurring in different retail markets around the world.
As a result, weak growth in global consumer demand for clothing is stalling demand growth across
the global supply chain. On balance, whether from a macro perspective or from a consumer
perspective, global demand for cotton remains soft and the medium-term price outlook is tipped to
the downside.

USCottonBalance


Market Fundamentals From A Supply Perspective


With cotton prices at such lofty levels last year when Northern Hemisphere producers were
making planting decisions, it comes as little surprise that cotton acreage soared and the world
cotton harvest jumped to a record. But with demand increasingly on the defensive and global supply
at a record high, market fundamentals turned increasingly loose. The USDA forecasts the global
stocks-to-use ratio will hit a record in 2012-13 for the second straight year, contributing
fundamental pressure to drag prices lower.

This trend is particularly evident in the U.S. market. Over the last year and a half,
monthly average nearby cotton futures on the Intercontinental Exchange (ICE) sank from more than 90
cents per pound to roughly 70 cents per pound. This gradual erosion happened as U.S. market
fundamentals loosened. That is, the marketing-year stocks-to-use ratio forecast each month over
this period gradually expanded, weighing on prices. Still, near-term prospects hint that more
loosening may be in store for the balance sheet, keeping upside potential for domestic prices
contained.


Then Along Comes Policy


Another consequence of the 2011 spike and collapse in global cotton prices was China’s
reintroduction of price controls. As the world’s largest cotton producer, consumer, and importer,
China can skew the global cotton market, and this past year was no exception. Just over a year ago,
as Chinese cotton prices were plunging in tandem with global prices, the Chinese government
reinstituted its Reserve procurement mechanism, a scheme designed to stanch the hemorrhaging in
price. The plan is nothing new to China, but the volume bought for the State Reserve was
unprecedented. By buying a record 3.1 million metric tons (14.2 million bales) of domestic cotton
from October 2011 to March 2012 at a preset price of 19,800 yuan per metric ton ($1.42 per pound),
the China National Cotton Reserves Corp. (CNCRC) was effective as never before in stopping the
plunge in domestic prices. This move also contributed to easing the price collapse in other
markets, including the United States.

Yet, to encourage local farmers to plant cotton this past spring, the CNCRC announced in
March a plan to procure even more new-crop supplies this autumn at 20,400 yuan per metric ton
($1.48 per pound). Since beginning the latest round of procurement for the Reserve in September,
another 2.2 million metric tons (10.3 million bales) of new-crop supply has effectively been taken
off the local market. This pace of procurement is well ahead of the volume during last year’s
record-setting procurement period, hinting that the government may buy even more cotton this
season.

Reservepurchasescotton 

While Chinese farmers praise the policy move, struggling domestic mills complain of thin
supplies on the cash market, prompting many to source yarn from foreign spinners – an ironic
consequence of policy for the world’s largest spinner. But in spite of what looks to be an earlier
crop than last year, precious little of this crop is available at reasonable prices to domestic
mills. Chinese mills complain much of the new-crop supply is being procured for the State Reserve
at elevated prices, with little available for industry. After consuming 51 million bales just a few
years ago, Chinese mills may use 35 million or less this year, a plunge unmatched worldwide.

The aggressive purchases for the State Reserve the last two seasons are causing some unusual
and unexpected repercussions across the global fiber and textile supply chain. For one, Chinese
mills priced out of the domestic market began aggressively sourcing foreign cottons. Already the
world’s largest cotton importer, China more than doubled its appetite for foreign cotton in 2011-12
to an unprecedented 24.5 million bales. By comparison, 2011-12 shipments to Bangladesh, the world’s
number-two importer, were less than 3.2 million bales. Understandably, this sudden demand caused
cotton exports from India to Australia to Brazil to surge to record levels.

Still, the policy move caused China to boost cotton yarn imports to a record level as well.
Over the first nine months of 2012, cotton yarn shipped into China is up 74.6 percent from the same
period last year to a dizzying 1.1 million metric tons. At this rate, Chinese imports of cotton
yarn in 2012 are virtually certain to soar to an uncharted high. Spinners across the subcontinent
and Southeast Asia that once lost global share to China are now gleefully selling unprecedented
volumes of yarn to this newfound market, as Chinese textile manufacturers attempt to avoid the
policy impact of paying prohibitively high domestic cotton and yarn prices.

On balance, the irresistible force of easing global fundamentals is pitted against the
immovable object of a set procurement price for cotton procured for the State Reserve, with the
market sandwiched between the two. Global cotton prices are likely to remain range-bound until
China’s procurement plan fully runs its course later this winter. But relatively cheap cotton and
higher prices for key competitor crops portend a large decline in Northern Hemisphere cotton
plantings in the spring, hinting at a firmer price scenario for the fiber emerging early next year.

Editor’s note: Gary Raines is chief economist and managing editor of the Globecot News Network,
now the Fibers & Textiles division of INTL-FCStone Inc., Nashville, Tenn. Eric Scholler is a
Charlotte-based independent economic analyst for the cotton market.

November/December 2012

Jakob Müller’s Not-So-Narrow 125 Years

In times of troubled waters, it is not an everyday occurrence to celebrate the 125th anniversary of
a company. But such is the case for Jakob Müller AG, Frick, Switzerland, one of the global leaders
in the production of machinery and equipment for making narrow fabrics and labels. In addition, the
Jakob Müller Institute of Narrow Fabrics recently organized the 12th Narrow Fabrics Conference.

During the celebrations for the 125th anniversary, the company announced that Martin Buyle, a
member of the executive management team, has been appointed new CEO of the entire Müller Group, to
succeed Christian Kuoni as of 2013. Kuoni will continue to head the Administrative Board.

MullerBuyle

Martin Buyle will take charge as CEO of Jakob Müller in 2013.

 


Some History


One shouldn’t look back too much. However, some milestones in the history of the company are
interesting: Toward the end of the 19th century, in 1887, Jakob Müller-Schneider (Jakob Müller I),
a trained loom carpenter, opened a workshop in Frick and soon began to design his own looms.
Eventually he built the first electrically powered ribbon and narrow fabric looms.

In 1912, Jakob Müller-Kistler (Jakob Müller II) took over the company from his father. During
the difficult period of the 1930s and World War II, the company remained small, but the basis was
provided for later growth.

Muller1

Jakob Müller’s headquarters are located in Frick, Switzerland, where Jakob Müller-Schneider
opened his workshop in 1887.




Hook-and-loop Fastening


In 1946, Jakob Müller-Frauenfelder (Jakob Müller III) joined the family business, which then
employed eight people. The initial plans for global market orientation were prepared. In 1953, the
company launched the first shuttleless narrow fabric machines into the market. Three years later,
Swiss engineer Georges de Mestral invented the revolutionary hook-and-loop fastener tape. Jakob
Müller III brought the related production technology to industrial maturity and thus opened up a
new area of branch activity.


Global Expansion


However, the Swiss border became too limiting for the company. Müller machines have been
exported all over the world, and the development of a global network of locations began with the
opening of a sales and service center in Germany, followed in 1979 by Jakob Müller Italiana S.p.A.,
and Jakob Müller of America Inc. in 1982.

The year 1987 marked the 100th birthday of the company. For this anniversary, it launched the
first rapier label weaving machine, MÜGRIP MBJ1, into the market.

In 1992, there was a change in leadership: Christian Kuoni became CEO of the Müller Group,
while Jakob Müller III remained chairman of Jakob Müller Holding AG.

Following the opening and booming of the Asian markets, Jakob Müller (India) Pvt Ltd. opened
in Bangalore, India, followed by offices in China, Japan and Hong Kong. In 1996, production began
in India; and in 1997, in China. However, the Latin American market became more important,
resulting in new companies being founded in Brazil and Mexico in 2000.

The latest news is that on Oct. 8, 2012, Jakob Müller and Italy-based Comez Gestioni S.p.A.
officially combined their activities in the area of crochet and warp-knitting machines for the
narrow fabrics industry. Comez International S.r.l. remains at its location in Cilavegna, Italy.
Paolo Banfi, head of Comez, reported to Comez customers that the company’s product portfolio and
services are now available through Comez International, and expressed confidence that the merger
with Jakob Müller would enable Comez to improve its technological standards, after-sales service
and quality. “The service of your machines and the delivery of spare parts are guaranteed with the
same efficiency and quality as you have been accustomed to,” he assured them.


The Narrow Fabrics Conference


For 12 years, the Jakob Müller Institute of Narrow Fabrics has organized the Narrow Fabrics
Conference. In September 2012, the most recent summit of the global narrow fabrics community took
place in Frick. The institute guided the attendees through topics of current interest in the narrow
fabrics area, but also presented issues relating to the global textile industry as such. Speakers
from different sectors of the industry presented their ideas and views about an issue. This year,
Michael Harder, Ph.D., from the Bureau for Interdisciplinary Sciences, Germany, talked about
“Physiconomics — the physical rule for economic success.”

Physicon … — what? Harder explained: “Physiconomics is a new scientific discipline that
applies fundamental insights from complex physics systems to economic relationships. The result is
an overall view of our economic situation which offers a perspective that varies considerably from
the mainstream. Physiconomics shows that our complex business world consists of logical islands in
a sea of risks, probabilities and natural contradictions.”

To put it in somewhat simpler words: Physiconomics is the function of complex systems:
success and failure. Harder said that physics and economics are merged or interlinked and become
“Econophysics and Physiconomics.” His presentation provoked many comments from the audience.

Muller2

Attendees at Jakob Müller’s 12th Narrow Fabrics Conference heard presentations on topics
relating to both the narrow fabrics sector and the global textile industry.


Global Man-made-fiber Yarn Supply


Peter Driscoll, managing director, PCI Fibres, United Kingdom, spoke about the recent
developments in the man-made fiber market and its links to narrow fabrics. Especially high-tenacity
polyester filament yarn plays a significant role in the narrow fabrics sector, with a market share
of some 15 percent for the production of seat belts. Other fiber types have a market share ranging
between 1 and 2 percent. Driscoll estimates the consumption of polyester high-tenacity filaments is
up to 550,000 metric tons (mt), with polyamide consumption at 65,000 mt, and viscose at some 5,000
to 10,000 mt. He answered the old question about the share of man-made fiber consumption in the
world compared to natural fibers consumption by mentioning that global demand for man-made fibers
increased 5.8 percent in 2011 to 53.2 million mt. Driscoll predicts 2.3-percent annual growth of
all fiber types up to 2020.


Sustainability


Also at this conference, sustainability was in the center of attention. Bernd Dannhorn of the
well-known lingerie producer Triumph International AG, Germany, reported on his company’s road to
premium sustainability. “As the leading producer of underwear, swimwear and homewear, we are fully
aware of the need to produce only such goods that comply with the most stringent user safety
requirements,” he said. In the forefront is the fact that every piece must be traceable to build up
and maintain credibility and confidence. However, he argued that today, there are still no
comprehensive labels and standards that are applicable for all markets. For certain, this matter is
one, if not the, key issue for all activities in the textile industry in the future.

November/December 2012

Thoughts On Prices

Attractive pricing could be one reason why textile and apparel demand has held up so well over the
past few years. Apparel tags have only risen about 6 percent since the pre-recession days of 2007 —
or 1 percent per year. And textile quotes, while they did spiral in late 2010 to early 2011 because
of skyrocketing cotton costs, have again dropped back to pre-cotton-runup levels. All this is in
sharp contrast to the near-20-percent jump in all U.S. manufacturing prices over the past five
years. This differential, if nothing else, has made clothing and other textile products a lot more
enticing to consumers who have had to make tough decisions on how and where to spend their
still-limited incomes.

More important, this less-than-average textile/apparel price pattern should persist. For
one, material cost pressures look to remain low, with all signs pointing to ample or
more-than-ample supplies of both cotton and man-made fibers. And similar cost restraint is seen for
labor, where 2- to 3-percent hikes in hourly pay continue to be offset by productivity increases of
the same magnitude. Then, there’s the price-dampening impact of imports. True, incoming shipments
of relatively low-priced textiles and apparel have leveled off. But there’s little to suggest any
decline.

Finally, industry management continues to make progress in keeping costs down — both by
eliminating waste and improving production and distribution operations. Better inventory control
provides a good example of this progress — with days’ supply remaining well under levels of the
past few decades, despite some huge swings in month-to-month demand. This is something that can
have a big bottom-line impact, as carrying charges make up a big portion of the typical firm’s cost
of doing business.

 
BFGraph


A Look At 2013


All the above, however, is in no way meant to imply that the U.S. industries’ prices won’t
edge higher over the next year or so. They’re bound to inch up, if only because of the overall
inflationary pressures generated by both the U.S. and global economies, as they strive to spark
larger economic gains. As such,

Textile World
 ‘s 2013 price projections for both basic textiles and more highly fabricated products like
carpets and home furnishings are expected to show continuing — probably near 1 percent — advances.
And it’s much the same picture for apparel, where only fractional increases are anticipated.
Contrast these to the almost certain much bigger boosts expected in other sectors — especially
those centered in areas that compete for the consumer dollar — like food, transportation, shelter,
education and medical care. As such, prices should continue to be a textile “plus” next year — at
least, as far as shoring up demand is concerned. Indeed, at this point in time, there’s little to
suggest that these differing price-rise patterns won’t spill over into 2014 and beyond.


The Election Impact


Changes wrought by the recent national election could also play a rather important role in
how the U.S. economy and its textile and apparel industries will fare over the next year or two.
While nothing can be said with absolute certainty, it’s becoming increasingly clear that pressure
to avoid falling off the “fiscal cliff” — with implementation of higher taxes and substantial
spending cuts starting Jan. 1, 2013 — is becoming a lot more intense. This doesn’t mean a so-called
“ground bargain” between feuding Democrats and Republicans will be signed, sealed and delivered by
year-end. But it does suggest that some sort of emergency legislation will be passed to delay or
modify these negative fiscal moves. More important, most business analysts feel that a few extra
months of haggling won’t have a catastrophic impact on the U.S. economy. Given the above scenario,

TW
 is now projecting about a 2-percent advance in gross domestic product (GDP) for the next
year. That’s far from great, but it’s a little better than 2012’s anemic less-than-2-percent
advance. Moreover, if things turn out as anticipated, 2014 could see some modest acceleration in
the growth rate — with a 3-percent or slightly higher GDP increase expected. That’s a rate which
could finally begin to make a dent in the United States’ still way-too-high jobless rate. All this,
in turn, seems to assure a continuation of somewhere near the current level of U.S. textile and
apparel activity. More on all this next month, when

TW
 publishes its annual economic outlook.

November/December 2012

Robust Business Continues; Spinners Wary Of Fiscal Cliff

The yarn market remained strong into the last week of November, with ring-spun (RS) cotton yarns
continuing to be in high demand. Spinners and yarn brokers also reported that orders for open-end
(OE) yarns were increasing as well.

“Overall, it’s been a pretty solid quarter — even a solid second half,” said one spinner. “We
had a slow period back in July, but it’s been pretty steady ever since.”

Said another spinner: “Our business has been really strong since the middle of July, and it
appears it is going to continue to be strong through the first quarter, unless something unexpected
happens.”

One industry insider said: “Everybody I’ve talked to is running pretty well. The knitters are
running. The weavers are actually pretty busy. I am hearing retailers continue to talk about trying
to bring programs back to the United States. I am even hearing talk that some of these retailers
may begin to feature Made in USA products in dedicated sections of their stores. While I’m not sure
it will materialize by the holidays, I think there’s a good chance some of this will happen by
spring. Overall, I would say the industry is cautiously optimistic.”

However, some industry insiders say there is nervousness about what the first of the year may
bring, depending upon if and how the Obama administration and Congress compromise on a tax and
spending plan. “Everyone is concerned about whether they can fix this fiscal cliff,” said one yarn
seller.

The fiscal cliff is a combination of spending reductions and tax-cut reversals that would
create a significant annual reduction in the federal deficit. Slated to start in January, it
includes $7 trillion in tax increases and spending cuts over a decade. However, many observers say
the movement is too much, too fast, and could plunge the U.S. economy back into recession. “What we
have now in our industry is a situation where everybody’s busy, but they’re scared.”


OE Makes Comeback; RS Prices In Flux


OE yarn demand has been generally weak for a sustained period, according to several spinners.
Small upticks in demand have been intense at times, but relatively short-lived. As of late
November, demand for OE yarns was relatively strong. Said one yarn buyer: “The companies I’ve
talked to are running at a fuller schedule for the most part than they have in a while. Pricing is
still not good, but business is better. OE margins are still very thin.”

RS margins are better, but pricing is volatile. “It’s rare that we’ve seen, in what appears
to be a relatively stable cotton market, such a wide variance in ring-spinning sales prices,” said
one prominent yarn broker. “Costs have to be relatively steady. While there are still a few
spinners with some higher-priced cotton, that’s not the cause of what we are seeing with these yarn
prices. They are all over the place.”


One yarn buyer said he’s seen prices for 30/1 RS combed cotton anywhere from $2.10 to $3.60 a
pound. “Some mills might quote a price for $2.10, but they don’t have any to sell. Others might be
at $3.50, and that’s with a six-week or more turnaround. Right now, there are mills selling
everything they can make for $3.45 or better.”


Quick Turn


One attribute that has provided a distinct advantage for U.S. spinners is the ability to
quickly produce and deliver orders. The definition of quick turn, however, varies somewhat with
demand. “There is no doubt we have given our customers the impression that we can always quickly
deliver orders,” said one spinner. “But in times of very high demand, that’s not always the case.”

“The dynamics of the ring-spun market have placed a premium on communication,” said another
spinner. “With limited inventories, it is inevitable that we will encounter scheduling challenges.
When that happens, communication becomes even more critical.”

A yarn broker agreed: “I had a customer call wanting a large order delivered immediately. I
explained that six weeks was the best I could do and would likely be the best anyone could do. I
got a purchase order later that afternoon.”

“The important thing is to put customer service at a premium,” said one spinner. “During this
type of market, communication, understanding and responsiveness are required to maintain the
momentum.”

November/December 2012

Quality Fabric Of The Month: FR From Nature, Layer By Layer

Researchers at Texas A&M University, College Station, Texas, are developing eco-friendly intumescent and clay-based nanocoatings that may one day be used to provide flame resistance (FR) to cotton garments and other textiles and polyurethane foam. The coatings, made using chitosan and other renewable materials, have potential applications in such areas as childrenswear, military and protective apparel, mattresses and home furnishings, and aircraft components.

Jaime C. Grunlan, Ph.D., an associate professor in Texas A&M’s Department of Mechanical Engineering and director of the research, had been working on a layer-by-layer assembly technique using a water-based solution to create clay-based nanobrick coatings for gas barrier films and got the idea to use them in FR applications, first trying them on foam. With input from the National Institute of Standards and Technology, which is partially funding the research, it was found that
the coated foam didn’t break down, and the weight gain from the coating was less than is typical with other FR coatings. The coating penetrates the foam, significantly diminishing off gassing and reducing the heat release rate by half. “The outer surface chars, but the inside is undamaged,” Grunlan said.

QFOMA

QFOM


Scanning electron micrographs show the intumescent coating on uncharred fabric (top) and
swollen protective foam created on the charred portion (bottom).

Meanwhile, Grunlan had been observing intumescent, foamy coatings on steel structural supports. “The coating, which contains phosphorus and nitrogen polymers, swells through the foaming process,” he explained. “The phosphorus attacks the nitrogen, which offgasses, creating bubbles that provide a thermal shield around the object.”

He decided to try a similar coating on cotton. “It totally worked,” he said. Only the surface in direct contact with flame was charred, and the swollen coating protected the fabric structure.

To make a biodegradable coating, Grunlan and his research team, including Galina Laufer, Ph.D., replaced man-made polymers with chitosan to provide the nitrogen component and phytic acid to provide the phosphorus. The water-based coating can be crosslinked to improve wash durability, Grunlan said, pointing out that the U.S. Department of Agriculture has found that the FR performance is unchanged after 10 washes conducted using an ASTM test method. “I’m very confident
we can show the same performance after 20 to 30 washes,” he added.

In current versions, the coating, though only 500 nanometers thick, does stiffen the fabric, making a very soft cotton more like canvas, such as would be suitable for a firefighter’s jacket. However, Grunlan said his team is working on recipes that would provide a softer hand and would be suitable for children’s sleepwear or other clothing.

Grunlan also has applied the coating to nylon/cotton FR and polyester fabrics. “The coating will prevent melt dripping, and a little intrinsic FR fiber in the fabric dramatically reduces the number of coating layers needed,” he said, noting that the coating will enhance a fabric’s own FR
behavior.

QFOMC


 


Left: In a vertical flame test, the coated cotton fabric chars only where the flame touches
it.

 

CONTACTS: For more information about the antiflammable nanocoating research at Texas A&M, contact Jaime C. Grunlan +979-845-3027; jgrunlan@tamu.edu.

November/December 2012

Medical Textiles: How Smart Do They Have To Be?

Within any specific market, a number of trends and influencing factors are catalysts for changing
needs and higher performance requirements. The medical field is no exception to this rule, and
advancements in medical technology itself, the demographics associated with an aging population and
the onset of chronic disease states — like diabetes and obesity — play a huge part in the market
dynamics.

Technology advances are the area in which raw material suppliers have the greatest influence
and impact, specifically because material advances to support the shifting needs are most dominant
where there is investment in research and development. The success in delivering new, smarter
materials — along with necessary customization to meet an end application requirement, as well as
the scale-up to production via a fully commercialized manufacturing process — are all influenced
greatly by the customer’s need and acceptance of new products, including the willingness to pay for
the improved performance characteristics. The term “intelligent textiles” — interchangeable with
“smart” or “active” textiles — refers to textile materials or engineered structures that are
potentially able to sense, react and/or adapt to environmental conditions.

Medicaltextiles1

Marjan Kooroshnia, Ph.D., The Swedish School of Textiles, has printed surgical facemasks using
thermochromic inks that change color in response to a rise in temperature of the wearer’s
breath.

Recent impacts on raw material costs, along with manufacturing energy requirements and
transportation costs, have all influenced desired technology advances of late. For example,
alternative sources of raw materials are actively sought, as is the ability to reduce weight or
bulk, thereby minimizing transportation costs. The potential range of uses for medical textiles
continues to increase, nevertheless, and the need to understand and improve upon the performance of
these materials and to target specific applications becomes important. From the accreditation
process network to the creation of green and clean medical fabrics to the utilization of
nanofibers, the use of textiles in medical applications has become even more complex and
challenging. However, an underlying driving dynamic influencing how unmet needs are addressed in
the medical markets necessitates a linking together of principles from different disciplines.


Mobile Applications Raise Standards And Expectations


In the world of medical technology, instantaneous access to critical data enables lifesaving
decisions to be made sooner. Previously, a passive approach was acceptable, and clinicians and
healthcare workers were satisfied essentially to react to lagging external indicators. Now, with
many products being largely in contact directly with the surface of a patient through the skin, the
overarching movement is to position such products for more dynamic behavior. This raises concerns
as to how such materials can become more active, intelligent and dynamic components within a
surgical procedure; or can replace a routine examination for bedridden patients. In addition, such
features enhance the product’s value beyond its being simply a means to create a passive protective
barrier per se, or a disposable commodity-based product.

The maturity of the medical apparel market means that future growth is becoming progressively
more dependent on product innovation. The importance of new features, such as improved comfort and
conformance with high performance thresholds, provided at minimal cost, has never been more
essential. Several stages in smart textile development can be described; they include smart
textiles that have only a sensing function; smarter textiles that have both sensing and actuating
functions; and smartest textile systems that are able to respond and adapt their behavior to the
environment.

Table 1 highlights several areas of opportunity ranging from the current state of technology
to what could conceivably be available in five years or so. For example, Teresa Wagner, technical
leader – composite solutions, Owens Corning Science & Technology LLC, Granville, Ohio, recently
discussed the potential for carbon-enhanced reinforcements in engineered materials to provide an
effective means to create an electromagnetic shield and, in so doing, the ability therefore to
create thin, lightweight, highly conductive materials with complex geometries. So, in addition to
the current use of conductive materials in textile applications as antistatic materials, or for
heating, or for electromagnetic interference shielding as Wagner described, they will now have the
ability to transport electrical signals to or from sensors embedded therein, thus providing
additional capabilities for active intelligence and the ability to react to external stimuli in a
dynamic manner — for example, to changes in body vital statistics during surgeries.


Opportunities For Improved Products


There are numerous types of smart materials, some of which are already routinely available,
although still in development for many medical applications owing to the regulated and controlled
environment. For example, shape memory polymers (SMPs) have been used already for a variety of
biomedical applications and temperature-responsive polymers, including in implants such as
cardiovascular stents, thus allowing minimally invasive implantation through small incisions or
natural orifices while the stent is in its small temporary shape before it expands and reshapes
itself to fit the required clinical specifications and perform accordingly. In addition, such SMPs
have an additional feature — that of biodegradability, which results in the implant degrading
before elimination by the body after it has fulfilled its purpose.


Surgical sutures are another good example of SMPs that enable wound closure with self-adjusting
optimal tension. This characteristic reduces tissue damage due to the potential for over-tightened
sutures; and, furthermore, it supports improved healing and the regeneration of tissue.

There are many chromogenic systems available that rely typically on the inclusion of chromic
dyes, pigments or coatings. Halochromic systems, in which color change is brought about by pH
value, have been shown to provide valuable visible sensors for use with burn patients. The pH
values vary throughout the healing process; hence, wound healing can be monitored without the need
to disturb the dressing and, therefore, the wound bed itself. In addition, halochromic textiles can
be used in geotextiles or protective apparel to indicate environmental pH changes brought about by
contaminated atmospheres. Thermochromic textiles generally include embedded organic compounds that
operate between the ambient and body temperatures and characteristically react to heat. They are
used extensively for thermodiagnostics and as skin thermometers.

In addition, thermoelectric materials can be used to build devices that convert temperature
differences into electricity, and vice-versa.

Self-healing materials have the intrinsic ability to repair any damage due to normal usage,
thus expanding the material’s lifetime. Many orthopedic implants fail following accumulation of
micro-damage sustained over lifetimes of cyclic loading. The bone cement — consisting of a
poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) base — used in these procedures has been a topic of an initial
study for self-healing materials and provides an example of how embedded microspheres embedded
within the PMMA can accomplish the repair. The microcapsules rupture and release their contents
into the areas where the micro-cracks form; polymerization of the released water-reactive healing
agent, a medical-grade cyanoacrylate tissue adhesive used in biosurgery, will serve to halt crack
propagation and restore the material’s strength. Barrier technologies for textiles and engineered
materials could incorporate similar embedded technologies to heal/repair breeches, tears or
scalpel/needle sticks.

Medicaltextiles2

This computer simulation shows how a stent made with a shape memory polymer expands into
place after insertion. The research was conducted at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology by
Lallit Anand, Ph.D., Warren and Towneley Rohsenow Professor of Mechanical Engineering; Vikas
Srivastava, Ph.D.; and graduate student Shawn Chester.


Path Forward: What’s Next?


During the past several years, medical device companies have been interested in assessing the
importance and impact of personal protective apparel. In broad terms, this article has focused on
the need for research and development in smart and active textiles to support the advancing
requirements of improved protective apparel. The primary targets for the advancements may be
surgical gowns and drapes as well as infection control apparel — products used widely in the
healthcare environment to protect healthcare workers, clinicians and patients alike from
transmitted infections. Yet, the smart and active concept can be leveraged to other markets such as
advanced wound care and other diagnostic systems, filtration and hygiene, fire and hazard
protection, and potentially also automotive and construction uses. This article has contrasted the
sophistication of materials in use to meet demands of performance and comfort with ideas for new
features that can be developed to influence future trends and address unmet market needs. Smart
textiles for healthcare and resulting medical applications are routinely the result of joint
developments made in many technologies — not least via advances in material science, information
technology and engineering; but also medicine itself.

Editor’s note: Vicki A. Barbur, Ph.D., works with leading-edge companies in their efforts to
spur, track and manage innovation through portfolio management and technology partnering. She is
based in Chicago.

November/December 2012

Yarn, Surface Design And Small Orders

SPINEXPO®, Indigo, Printsource and DG Expo have found New York City a good venue. At SpinExpo, yarn
spinners, fiber companies and producers of textile machinery had news. Indigo and Printsource had
new exhibitors. DG Expo, a biannual show geared to small orders, is expanding.


SpinExpo


Fiber companies at SpinExpo provided information about their products. Australian Wool
Innovation Ltd. (AWI), with its subsidiary The Woolmark Company, gave general facts about Merino
wool along with a fashion forecast, and directed potential customers to what spinners are doing
with Australian Merino wool yarns and fabrics.

Meadowbrook Inventions Inc., Bernardsville, N.J., showed Angelina® metallic
fibers that look like Brillo® and feel like cashmere. Angelina copper is an antimicrobial yarn
suggested for apparel, home fashions including bedding, and antimicrobial textiles for use in
hospitals.

KAfeatureknits

Todd & Duncan’s offerings at SpinExpo included Burleigh, a two-toned textural cashmere
yarn.

Nylstar S.A., Spain, introduced Nylgold®, a nylon 6,6 product. Nanoparticles are infused
into the polymer, and the yarn has elasticity and moisturizing properties. Along with apparel, it
is going into bandages. Two other products on display were Nylair, an ultralight hollow fiber that
provides thermal insulation; and Nylcare nylon 6,6 fiber that keeps bacteria stable.

Afghanistan, through U.S. assistance, has a developed cashmere industry and today is the
third-largest cashmere-producing country after China and Iran. Herati Cashmere and Skin Processing
Plant sells to U.S. customers including J. Crew and Kate Spade.

Two machinery companies with extensive displays were H. Stoll GmbH & Co. KG, Germany,
and Santoni S.p.A., Italy. Stoll showed garments and fabrics made on its equipment as examples of
what learning experiences are available at its Fashion & Technology Center in New York’s
garment district.

Santoni presented its newest seamless knitting machine, Mec-Mor Variatex CMP, which can make
a sweater in four minutes. It features stitch structures using various types of yarn and can do
single and double jersey, jacquards, plated effects, pockets and four-color stripes.

Spinners showed novelty and quality. Südwolle Group, Germany, the largest spinner of worsted
knitting and weaving yarns, grows its own Merino wool in Australia. Catering to luxury markets, it
was selling a variety of yarns including coarse-gauge fine yarns for flat knitting, 2/28 and 2/60
cashmere, and blends with Merino wool and silk.

Z. Hinchcliff & Sons Ltd., United Kingdom, has been selling quality woolen yarns for
nearly 250 years. The company sells fine to heavy yarns of cashmere, angora, camel hair, and
lambswool. With stock service, it promises fast deliveries.

Todd & Duncan Ltd., Scotland, has 165 colors in 2/28 cashmere and stock service. It
showed cashmere and lambswool heathers and slubs.

Felise Erdal of Yarn Mavens Inc., New York City, sells China-based Yarns & Colors Co.
Ltd.’s line to mid- and upper-level designer lines in the United States. The new collection
includes alpaca, camel, angora, cashmere, fox, yak and mink. Some is blended with silk. Yarns are
ultrasoft, lightweight and bulky.

Another Chinese line handled by Yarn Mavens is Shenzhen Everwin Yarn Co. Ltd. Here, the
specialties are fine-gauge cotton heathers for T-shirts, wool and blends. One that was pointed out
is spun of rayon, wool and Pima cotton.

Three firms from Italy showed quality and creativity. Miroglio Textile had soft
mohair/wool/nylon bouclé yarns, felted and thick-and-thin wool/nylon yarns and thick
viscose/acrylic/Merino wool marled yarns.

Cariaggi has stock service with more than 180 colors in its two-ply cashmere range, and
sells both woolen and worsted spun yarns. Woolen yarns include blends of cashmere with vicuña,
mohair or ultrafine Merino wool. Some of the worsted yarns contain metallic and elastic fibers. New
are two-color cashmere bouclés, some twisted with silk, or printed with metal or with rubber for a
tweed look.

Filosophy S.r.l. sells shiny yarns, fancy yarns and thick gauges in cashmere blended with
mohair. Most of its yarns have a clean look. Some yarns are recycled from old sweaters.

Filatures du Parc, France, has yarns of carded wool and blends with cashmere, yak, cotton,
silk and nylon. A lot of the line is recycled. One best seller is a handknitting yarn that is a
blend of cotton, nylon, acrylic, silk and linen.

Seritex Inc., New York City and Los Angeles, showed yarns from global sources spun with
paper along with two-ply cashmere, nylon in blends with alpaca or mohair, and wool or cotton in
fluro colors.

KAfeaturesweater

Herati Cashmere and Skin Processing Plant supplies product to several U.S.
customers.


Indigo And Printsource


Indigo had new exhibitors from Brazil. Capim Puro showed prints combining photographs with
hand-drawn designs. Nature was a big theme. São Paulo city scenes, hand-drawn abstracts and dots
were other designs.

A lot of British firms showed at Indigo. Made in Brighton’s line is digitally printed and
has lacy looks, animal skin abstracts, small geometrics, large all-over abstracts, and plaids that
are blurred and misted or precise. Amanda Kelly showed black-and-white and patchwork abstracts,
realistic florals, and blurred dots. At Gather No Moss, engineered florals are a take on Russian
folkloric. There are huge misted abstracts, playful landscapes, geometric borders and mixes of
paisleys in patchwork designs.

Three New York City designers showing at Indigo have elegant lines. Tom Cody Design showed
Baroque designs, phenomenal dots, elegant embroideries, jewel prints and less casual T-shirt
patterns. The Style Council is selling Art Deco-inspired designs, Baroque styles, paisleys, ikat
flowers, blurred geometrics, marbleized looks and photorealistic patterns. At Marilyn Kern Textile
Designs Inc., there are foulards, tonal burn-outs, textural designs, paisleys, dots and “anything
engineered.”

Printsource exhibitor Lewis Orchid, U.K., is into “non-season vacation living.” His line of
contemporary classics has linear black-and-white designs, skins with stripes, and new
conversationals including big fish.

Mixed Media Studio, Carrolton, Ga., also showing at Printsource, has natural motifs in
offbeat colors. There are blueberry bushes, monolith patterns, wood carvings and pansies in a
garden.

Creativo Surface Design, New York City, showed abstract textures, graded ombres and mirror
images. There are photorealistic animals for childrenswear.

Design Works International, New York City, showed paisleys, Baroque designs, scarf prints,
photorealistic florals, opulent jewels and bold geometrics.

Tana Bana Design Services, Morristown, N.J., sells designs for the home. Vibrant colors,
painterly watercolors, ikats, skins and botanical drawings were popular patterns.


DG Expo


At DG Expo, now in its second season, most of the exhibitors have no minimums and offer
stock service. In February 2013, exhibit space will double.

Hemp Traders, Carson, Calif., showed knitted and woven hemp and cotton fabrics. The line
ranges from heavy upholstery fabrics, corduroys and French terry to ultralight jersey and lawn.

Carr Textile Corp., Fenton, Mo., sells knits and wovens of organic cotton, recycled
polyester and nylon to the apparel and home-fashion industries. A lot is made in the United States.
Along with light- to heavyweight solid fabrics, there are yarn dyes and prints.

KAfeaturebooth

DG Expo exhibitor Robert Kaufman showed his latest collection of prints and yarn dyes.

Novelties at D. Zinman Textiles Ltd., Montreal, include laces, beaded fabrics, jacquards and
prints. Sextet Fabrics, East Rockaway, N.Y., sells viscose/spandex, Modal®, MicroModal®, polyester
and nylon knitted fabrics in a variety of weights including matte jersey, mesh, piqué, ponte di
Roma, French terry and double-faced knitted fabrics. Robert Kaufman Fabrics, Los Angeles, has a new
collection of prints and yarn dyes every quarter. Paisleys, flowers and mini designs on organic
cotton lawn were selling at this show.

November/December 2012

The Rupp Report: A Merry-Go-Round: From Saurer To Oerlikon And Back To Saurer

It was a rumor in the industry for a long time, and it was (always) just a matter of time: At some
point, the Russian investor Viktor Vekselberg would sell the textile machinery division of the
Oerlikon Group to get back his invested money. And now he did sell, but not 100 percent: Let’s
start from the beginning.

In September 2006, when the Oerlikon Group — which was then called Unaxis — took over the
majority of the Swiss Saurer Textile Group, financial investors on both sides were playing the
music. At Saurer, the British investment firm Laxey Partners was the main shareholder, and Unaxis
was owned by the Austrian investment company Victory with Georg Stumpf and Ronny Pecik.

Lack Of Understanding

This acquisition made a lot of noise in the textile machinery sector and many (textile)
insiders just shook their heads. How could one take away from the markets such a good brand name
like Saurer? The experts were certain that this illogical deal couldn’t work in the long run.

Through the acquisition of Saurer Textile machinery, and components and gears, the name of
Saurer, founded in 1888, disappeared from the markets. Strangely enough, Saurer with a turnover of
2.3 billion Swiss francs in 2005 was bigger compared to the 1.6 billion Swiss francs from Unaxis
(OC Oerlikon). In May 2007, Heinrich Fischer left his position as Saurer CEO — a job that he had
held since 1996.

Long Ordeal

Shortly before ITMA 2007 in Munich, the Rupp Report also expressed its concerns about certain
financial transactions of the former Unaxis, for which it was severely criticized at ITMA by
Oerlikon Textile employees. However, in this report, only concerns were expressed as to whether and
how traditional labels such as Saurer, Schlafhorst, Zinser, etc. would survive with these kinds of
investors in the background. The other ongoing financial stories of the Oerlikon Group are
well-known. And now the takeover has happened.

Further Divestment

Last week, the Oerlikon Group sold its natural fibers and textile components business units
and signed an agreement with the Jinsheng Group of China. Oerlikon is said to continue to develop
its position in the growing man-made fibers market. Oerlikon Textile’s Manmade Fibers business unit
with its brands Barmag and Neumag is among the leading suppliers for man-made fibers production. In
addition to the filament and staple production units, it also supplies technology for bulked
continous filamnet yarns and nonwovens production.

Heinrich Fischer Is Back

The Board of Directors of the new Saurer Group will be composed of four Europeans and three
Asians. The chairman of the new group is Heinrich Fischer – the last CEO of Saurer before the
company was taken over in 2007 by Oerlikon. Besides Fischer, Pan Xueping, founder of the Jinsheng
Group, will be a board member. The company will be led by Daniel Lippuner, who ran the Oerlikon
Textile Components business, which is included in the deal.

The Rupp Report had the occasion to talk to the new (and old) CEO Heinrich Fischer. The first
question was quite obvious: How does it feel to be the CEO of Saurer again, and why did it happen?
“It feels very good,” said Fischer, “and it is exciting too. I have known Pan Xueping for a very
long time and he approached me to take over the part of CEO in the new Saurer Group. After a short
period of thinking I said yes to this extraordinary project.”

Next, in answering the question of why the acquisition did not include the Manmade Fibers
business, Fischer said: “We also offered to take over the Manmade Fibers business, but Oerlikon’s
intention was to keep that division.”

Same Management

How does Fischer describe Pan Xueping? “He has a great experience in the textile business and
is vice chairman of the China Textile Machinery Association. I was working with him since my days
with Saurer and Oerlikon. He is very open-minded and respects other cultures. That’s why the old
management of Oerlikon Textile will be virtually the same with the new Saurer Group.”

Fischer also mentioned the fact that the finance world welcomed the idea of the acquisition.
So, if the deal is only to be closed by the third quarter of 2013, how do the customers react if
they want to place an order? “Well,” said Fischer, “there is no difference at all. Customers can
order with the people they have known for many years, because the management and the people will
remain the same as before.”

A Milestone For Oerlikon

On the other hand, Oerlikon CEO Michael Buscher explained during the Oerlikon media
conference that “this transaction is a further milestone in balancing the Oerlikon portfolio. It
significantly reduces our overall exposure to the textile industry and allows us to focus on the
less cyclical, higher margin Manmade Fibers business.”

With sales of 2 billion Swiss francs in 2011, the textile segment represented 53 percent
total restated Group sales (excluding the recently divested Solar business). After the divestment,
the restated share of revenues from the textile sector will be an estimated third of total Group
sales. The transaction is subject to merger control approval in a number of countries. Closing is
expected in the third quarter of 2013.

The New Saurer

Now, the more than 160 years of Saurer history will continue again. The Jinsheng Group will
operate their newly acquired textile machinery business under the name Saurer. Pan Xueping has
signed with OC Oerlikon a purchase agreement of 650 million Swiss francs for the acquisition of the
entire Natural Fibers and Components businesses. The new Saurer Group has a turnover of
approximately 1 billion Swiss francs and comprises 3,800 employees.

All employees and operations in Europe, the United States and Asia will be maintained.
Continuity with a focus on customer value, innovation and employee development are in the focus of
the new leadership, which will operate from Europe and Asia. This is confirmed by Fischer: “As
already mentioned, we remain at the current locations in Europe and Asia. Pan Xueping is a modern
Chinese man who studied abroad and is well aware of other cultures.”

The Jiangsu Jinsheng Group was founded in 2000 in the Jintan Economic Development Zone of the
Jiangsu Province. Today, the Group is said to be a leading manufacturer of high-end computer
numerical control (CNC) machines and tools and recycled cotton fibers as well as saliva-based test
technologies. A further activity is real estate. The Group has an annual sales turnover of more
than 6.6 billion renminbi, or approximately 1 billion Swiss francs, with more than 5,000 employees
and 70 subsidiaries around the world.

Long-Term Planning

The sale of a large part of the textile machinery business is not the first divestiture,
since the Russian industrialist Viktor Vekselberg has taken over control of the Oerlikon Group and
the company had to be freed with a refinancing of its huge debt burden. Just a few days ago, the
Group had completed the sale of its solar division to Japan’s Tokyo Electron.

For the new company, Pan Xueping and his group are longtime business partners of Saurer and
Oerlikon, and the textile industry is familiar with him, as he is the owner of a spinning plant
with approximately 300,000-400,000 spindles. Heinrich Fischer is very optimistic about the future
of the new Saurer Group: “Our intention and will is to open a new chapter in the successful history
of Saurer. We are very happy that virtually all employees are with us and support the idea.”

It remains to be hoped that after five years, a problematic capital in the Saurer history and
its business comes now to an end. Again, a European textile machinery company goes into Chinese
hands. That must not be a bad sign. Nevertheless, with the Jinsheng Group, Saurer is once again
under the wings of a financial investor.

December 11, 2012

USTER® STATISTICS 2013 Is Out On Uster.com

USTER, Switzerland — December 2, 2012 — Uster Technologies Ltd. launches the online version of the
new edition of the worldwide established USTER® STATISTICS. The 2013 edition features now data from
the new USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 and the USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400. Further novelties are charts of new yarn
styles and trendy materials. As ever the USTER® STATISTICS are the base for a common quality
language in the textile industry.

In 1957, Uster Technologies started to publish only a few tables for cotton and wool. USTER
has expanded the content to more than 2200 charts over the past 55 years – always with the ambition
to provide USTER® STATISTICS for all kinds of material available in the market. Today, more than 30
major yarn styles are presented. New yarn styles in the latest edition 2013 are plied yarns and
more blends of air-jet yarns.

The new edition of 2013

The highlights of USTER® STATISTICS 2013 are the inclusion of data for USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 and
USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400. While USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 measures and classifies disturbing yarn defects,
foreign fibers and vegetable matter, the USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 provides data of the length of
protruding fibers.

A major requirement for the USTER® CLASSIMAT graphs was to differentiate the yarn counts. So
the graphs for USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 are class-divided in three yarn count levels (fine, medium,
coarse). As mentioned, it is the goal of Uster Technologies to publish new and innovative quality
parameters. So, for the first time, graphs are available for foreign fiber, with separate vegetable
matter results, and for outliers.

Relation between price performance ratio and USTER® STATISTICS

All new and old features aim for the one goal to support the users to reach the ideal price
performance ratio – especially for spinning mills. It is essential to compare objectively in-house
performance versus global best practice. With the help of USTER® STATISTICS, the spinning mill can
identify performance gaps. The parameters can easily be used as key performance indicators for
spinning process optimization.

Another benefit for the spinning mill is an increase in its competitive position, since
USTER® STATISTICS enable mills to declare objectively what they are producing and selling. Spinning
mills can prove yarn quality levels when tested on USTER® equipment, because of direct comparison
with USTER® STATISTICS.

Also for yarn users USTER® STATISTICS are useful to optimize the costs. Changes in the
industry through globalization have been dramatic. Fashion is changing fast. Quick deliveries are
needed. Quality costs at all levels of the textile supply chain have increased. Higher quality
costs may be caused not only by wrong selection of the yarn for a certain article but also by poor
performance of the yarn. USTER® STATISTICS are traditionally used to predict the quality of the
fabric at an early stage, to avoid expensive additional costs due to second quality.

Many retailers have concluded that their existing system of ordering garments was not
sufficient to guarantee the production of final products of constant quality. To achieve
consistency, they have started to formulate quality requirements in what are called ‘yarn quality
profiles’, based on USTER® STATISTICS. Experience has determined the quality levels appropriate for
each application.

Worldwide established benchmarks become the common quality language

The new edition of the unique USTER® STATISTICS is now available on uster.com (service
section). Also the release of USTER® STATISTICS 2013 will underline their benefits as a vital
success factor for textile companies, providing a common language to define precise quality factors
along the entire production chain. Yarn producers, buyers and retailers all rely on USTER®
STATISTICS as the basis for trading and a foundation for industry-wide quality improvement.
‘Quality improvement always goes along with cost saving and price increase for the produced
material. Therefore it is sure that all users will benefit again from the USTER® STATISTICS 2013’,
says Thomas Nasiou, Head of Textile Technology within USTER.



Posted December 11, 2012

Source: Uster

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