Germany-based KARL MAYER will discontinue its flat knitting machine business under the STOLL brand as part of a strategic shift toward warp knitting, warp preparation and technical textiles. Manufacturing at the STOLL production site in Reutlingen, Germany, has already ceased, and production in China will cease by the end of the year. Around 280 employees are affected in Germany.
“STOLL stands for a long tradition,” said Oliver Mathews, president of the STOLL Business Unit. “That is precisely why we deeply regret that we were unable to lead the business into the future successfully. It was not possible to find an investor to continue production at the main site in Reutlingen with its 280 employees.”
KARL MAYER will continue servicing the installed base, with spare parts to be supplied from warehouses in Obertshausen, Germany and China. Software license keys will remain available.
Mayer & Cie., a Ger-many-based manufacturer of circular knitting and braiding machines, has filed for insolvency under self-administration. The company, which employs about 280 people, cited a significant decline in global demand. Wage and salary payments are secured for three months through insolvency benefits.
Mayer & Cie. reported that geopolitical tensions, including the U.S.-China trade conflict and the war in Ukraine, have discouraged investment, while high inflation in Turkey and price pressure from subsidized Chinese competitors contributed to a nearly 50-percent drop in sales last year.
In the self-administration process, management will oversee restructuring with support from specialist Attorney Martin Mucha of Grub Brugger, who joins as general representative.
“On Thursday, together with the management, I informed the workforce about the insolvency application,”Mucha said. “At the same time, the necessary steps were taken to maintain business operations. We intend to continue business operations as usual and will concentrate with all our commitment on maintaining the company’s core competencies.”
Italy-based Itema recently began construction on a new manufacturing site in Ponte Nossa, Italy. The company acquired the unused site in 2022 that previously housed Cotonificio Cantoni, and is moving forward with a multi-step redevelopment plan intended to modernize operations and expand its presence in the Seriana Valley. Step one, now under-way and scheduled for completion in 2027, includes a world-class production hub to support Itema’s weaving machinery production.The project later will include development plans for Lamiflex S.p.A.
“In 2022 we took the decision to begin a journey that would lead Itema Group to have a position adapted to the turbulent changes taking place and at the same time strengthen our brand, which is recognized throughout the textile world as an ambassador of ‘Made in Italy’,” said Ugo Ghilardi, Itema Group CEO.“One step of this journey involves both process and production, and product assets, which find a home in this new manufacturing site in Ponte Nossa.”
Champion Thread Co. (CTC), Gastonia, N.C., has established the Poovey Family Scholarship in honor of its late founder, Robert “Bob”Lee Poovey III. The need-based undergraduate scholarship will support students pursuing degrees at the Wilson College of Textiles at NC State, Raleigh, N.C. The Poovey family has multiple NC State alumni across three generations, and the scholarship is funded through a permanent endowment created during the Wilson College’s 125th anniversary year.
CTC CEO Matt Poovey said: “This scholarship is more than a recognition — it’s a reflection of my father’s lifelong devotion to the textile industry and his unwavering pride in the Wolfpack. He believed deeply in the transformative power of education, excellence, and service. His passion for textiles was matched by a quiet generosity — he had a gift for recognizing when someone just needed a helping hand and he offered it freely, without fanfare. … This scholarship carries that spirit forward, empowering future students to pursue their goals with courage, diligence, and the values that shaped his life and legacy.”
Bob Poovey worked in textiles for more than 50 years and founded CTC in 1979.
Spartanburg, S.C.-based Milliken & Company has acquired the assets of Highland Industries Inc. in Cheraw, S.C., in a move that bolsters Milliken’s technical textiles capabilities and strengthens its U.S. operations. Milliken said the Highland site will serve as a regional hub for technical textile weaving and knitting.
“We remain committed to the U.S. textile industry and grounded in our belief that precision manufacturing of innovative, high-performance materials is crucial for industrial resilience,” said Halsey Cook, president and CEO of Milliken.
“In addition to reinforcing current operations, acquiring Highland adds new offerings to the technical textiles portfolio,” said Allen Jacoby, executive vice president, and president of Milliken’s technical textiles business. “Highland provides important assets to help us better serve our customers and opens the door to new growth opportunities.”
In other Milliken news, the company was recognized with a 2025 EcoVadis Gold Rating for the fourth consecutive year. The award puts Milliken in the top 5 percent of the more than 150,000 global organizations that are considered for the recognition each year.
“This recognition reflects the dedication of our teams around the world and our continued focus on fostering transparency and driving innovation across our businesses,” Cook noted.
Pakistan-based Artistic Milliners has acquired a majority stake in Cone Denim from Elevate Textiles, Greensboro, N.C. The resulting multinational company will operate under the Cone Denim name, and Artistic Milliners’ Pakistan operations will continue independently. The transaction is expected to close in early 2026.The combined entity will include Cone Denim’s mills in Mexico and China, as well as Artistic Milliners’ garment facility in Parras, Mexico, and its Star Fades International laundry and development center in Los Angeles. Cone will operate as a standalone portfolio company led by President Steve Maggard.
“We are committed to bringing the full breadth of our expertise to help unlock Cone’s competitive strengths,” said Artistic Milliners’ Murtaza Ahmed and Omer Ahmed in a joint statement.“Cone Denim will preserve its unique identity while continuing to drive its own business strategy. Our goal is to collaborate closely with the Cone Denim team, building on the legacy and achievements of more than 130 years.”
Texworld NYC taps Peclers Paris for trend direction while introducing fresh programming, and a reimagined Innovation Hub for sourcing professionals and designers.
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January 20-22, 2026, the textile and garment industry will gather in New York City at the Javits Center for Texworld NYC. The biennial trade event will collocate with Apparel Sourcing NYC and Printsource for the Winter 2026 Edition to create a hub for fabric sourcing and solutions for the textile and garment industry.
Texworld, organized by Atlanta-based Messe Frankfurt Inc., is a showcase of fabrics in on-trend color palettes comprising basics up to those containing unique fiber blends and innovative structures.
Apparel Sourcing NYC is a joint venture between Messe Frankfurt and China-based Sub-Council of Textile Industry, China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT-Tex). Exhibitors specialize in finished apparel, contract manufacturing and private label development. Apparel and accessories will be displayed including ready-to-wear collections for men, women and children.
Printsource highlights hundreds of design collections from surface designers and textile design studios all over the world. Applications include apparel, bed and bath, kitchen and tabletop, wall coverings and window fashions, among other applications.
New Year Brings New Features
Organizers are combining the Next-Gen Materials, Technology Lab and Solutions Studio into a single destination — the Innovation Hub. Within the hub, visitors can learn about biobased, circular and low impact textiles, digital tools and artificial intelligence systems including blockchain and 3D design, as well as services offering transparency and accountability options for the global supply chain.
As always, trend forecasts form the heart of Texworld NYC. This edition’s Texworld Trend Showcase is curated by trend partner Peclers Paris, a creative consultancy and trend agency with more than five decades of experience. According to organizers, the showcase will introduce “the season’s key color stories, material innovations and creative directions — translating future trends into tangible inspiration for designers and sourcing professionals alike.”
“We believe every story in fashion begins with the fabric,” noted Yvonne de Bruyn, Trend & Type director for Consultancies, Peclers Paris. “It is the foundation of creativity, the vessel of emotion, and the touchpoint of connection. Fabric shapes not only garments, but also the narratives they carry and the feelings they evoke. That is why we are proud to partner with Texworld New York, bringing our trend-driven vision to the fashion capital of the United States.”
Workshop Opportunity, Education Programs
The Chicago Pattern Maker Founder and President Xochil Herrera Scheer will host a new hands-on tech pack workshop for attendees. “Your Fashion Design Blueprint” aims to demystify the tech pack, which is an essential blueprint for bringing garments to life. Seats are limited and tickets can be purchased during online registration.
Other returning event features include the Exhibitor Pitch stage presented by Texpertise, which will present new products and innovations; Textile Talks where experts will discuss a variety of issues pertinent to the fashion and textile industries; and the Deadstock Sourcing area that will provide buyers access to surplus materials as sustainable sourcing alternatives.
The shows are open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Tuesday and Wednesday, January 20-21; and from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Thursday, January 22.
For more information about the shows and to register, visit texworld-usa. us.messefrankfurt.com and printsource newyork.com.
RISE® 2025 — which honored Keel Labs with the RISE Innovation Award (far right) for its Kelsun® seaweed-based fiber — allowed for networking and learning while spotlighting the technologies that are redefining what’s possible in engineered fabrics.
The 15th annual RISE was designed to explore collaboration and creativity for a more sustainable future in the nonwovens and engineered fabrics industry.
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The Cary, N.C.-based Association of the Nonwoven & Fabrics Industry (INDA) recently hosted its 15th RISE® conference, co-hosted by The Nonwovens Institute (NWI). The two-day RISE —Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics — event focused on emerging technologies and ideas with the aim of connecting innovations with real-world applications for professionals in the nonwoven/engineered fabrics industry. The event this year was held at the McKimmon Center on the NC State campus in Raleigh, N.C.
Topics focused on sustainability and innovation. Carbon-smart materials and fiber science featured heavily on the agenda, and green chemistry and nonwoven processing technologies also were included in the presentations. INDA’s Director of Government Relations, Wes Fisher, concluded the conference with his presentation on “Nonwovens in a Shifting Landscape: Navigating Tariff and Policy Risks in a Second Trump Administration.”
RISE Innovation Award
Each year, INDA searches for commercializable technical products and technologies to honor with the RISE Innovation Award. The top three nominees for the award in 2025 — EsterCycle LLC, Rockline Industries and Keel Labs — presented their technologies at the end of the first day of conference proceedings, and then RISE attendees voted for their favorite innovation. Once those results were tallied with votes cast by INDA’s Technical Advisory Board and the affiliated Conference Committee, Keel Labs, Morrisville, N.C., was announced as the winner of the 2025 RISE Innovation Award for its Kelsun® fiber. The seaweed-based fiber is a sustainable, biodegradable alternative to petroleum-based fibers. Kelsun also is soft, inherently flame resistant and antimicrobial.
Associated Activities
The day before the conference, those interested in golf participated in a charity golf tournament at the Lonnie Poole Golf Course on the NC State campus. Money raised by the tournament supports graduate students with travel costs to attend INDA events.
During the conference, attendees had the opportunity to learn about research taking place at a variety of universities via the graduate research posters that were on display. It’s a great opportunity for the students to share their work with industry experts and potential investors. Tabletop exhibits from participating companies also were positioned around the posters in the exhibit area offering additional learning opportunities.
At the close of the conference, attendees were given the chance to tour NWI. This “Open Innovation” resource on the Centennial Campus of NC State comprises a consortium of stakeholders spanning the breadth of the nonwovens value chain. The collaboration between academia, industry and government works to develop nonwoven solutions and is the first accredited academic program for engineered fabrics. NWI houses more than $65 million in pilot lines and analytical labs for trials and development work.
“RISE continues to spotlight the technologies that are redefining what’s possible in engineered fabrics,” said Dr. Matt O’Sickey, INDA’s director of Education & Technical Affairs. “From renewable carbon and green chemistry to next-generation fibers and recycling innovations, this year’s conference showcased the kind of collaboration and creativity that will shape a more sustainable future for our industry.”
INDA has announced the date for RISE 2026, which will return to the McKimmon Center August 25-26, 2026.
Meredith Boyd, executive vice president, chief product officer, UNIFI® and SYFA president
Exploring recent developments in fiber innovation, trade and the economy, the Synthetic Yarn and Fabric Association delivered at its recent fall conference.
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The Charlotte, N.C.-based Synthetic Yarn and Fabric Association (SYFA) recently held its annual fall conference at the Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel in Charlotte, N.C.
SYFA President Meredith Boyd opened the conference stating: “Our theme this conference, ‘From Fiber Forward: Technology, Trade, and Transformation,’ captures what this moment means for our industry. Today, we’re no longer just a manufacturing sector, we’re a strategic industry that anchors national security, environmental progress, and economic competitiveness. We are the quiet enablers behind nearly every major innovation shaping modern life, and it all starts with chemistry, engineering, and ingenuity.”
A Variety Of Presentations
Senior International Trade Manager with the Economic Development Partnership of North Carolina, Jeri Barutis, hosted a discussion with Felicia Pullam, senior director, Geo-Commerce, APCO Worldwide, tackling the topic “Trade & Compliance: Challenges & Opportunities in the Textile Industry.” The exchange explored how to navigate trade policy and gave insight into actions small and mid-sized companies may use to deal with compliance issues.
Matt Yakush, Global Market Development leader, Kevlar® EXO™, and Jake Pretko, lead engineer II, R&D Aramids Product & Process Development, DuPont, presented “Kevlar EXO: Innovating the New Generation of Technical Textiles.” The duo explained the history of Kevlar and the innovations achieved with Kevlar EXO including increased strength, weight savings and flexibility.
Well-known textile trade professional Auggie Tantillo with SRG & Associates presented “A Federal Textile Trade & Tariff Review.” Exploring the chaotic trade landscape, Tantillo gave his take on the good and bad of current trade issues and raised concern regarding the future of the Berry Amendment.
Craig Lindemann, a technical specialist, Product Integration, Reju, presented “Reju: Building a Circular Textile System. He explained Reju as a systems change company that uses selective depolymerization of polyester and a network of feed-stock suppliers, brands, and resellers to create a circular textile system.
Roger Tutterow, Henssler Financial Endowed chair, professor of Economics, Kennesaw State University, presented an Economic Review tuned for textile executives. Always entertaining, Tutterow gave context to the current economic situation.
Dr. Ramesh Kesh, senior vice president and Global Business manager – Polartec, and Government & Defense with Milliken & Company, gave an in-depth overview and update on Polartec, titled “Innovation Made to Go Beyond.” Dr. Kesh’s command of the topic of innovation and application was insightful.
Billy McCall, Kintra Fibers’ founder and CEO, discussed “Next Generation Polyester Yarns: Looking Back in Order to Move Forward,” and described his initiative as an interested scientist bringing a fresh approach to fiber challenges while developing a biobased polyester.
Tamsin Ettefagh, chief sustainability officer and vice president of Industry, PureCycle Technologies, presented “Recycled PP for Fiber Applications.” An industry veteran, Ettefagh spoke of her personal journey transforming and reusing post-consumer plastics in meaningful ways.
In concluding the conference, Boyd offered remarks, saying: “Our industry may be centuries old, but it’s also among the most dynamic on earth. We have the rare ability to impact everything, from what people wear and how they work and play, to how they move, heal, and even protect their lives. We’re advancing a shared mission: to make textiles smarter, stronger, and more sustainable for the world we live in.”
SYFA will hold its Spring Conference April 1-2, 2026, at the Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel. The SYFA Annual Spring Golf Tournament to raise money for the SYFA Scholarship at Gaston College will be held Tuesday, March 31, 2026, at The Rocky River Golf Club, Concord, N.C.
Panda Biotech’s President Dixie Carter discusses the company’s part in developing the U.S. hemp ecosystem — growing, processing and building partnerships with an eye on sustainability.
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It was clear early on in this interview that Panda Biotech’s story was about much more than just building a new hemp gin in Wichita Falls.
Panda Biotech’s President Dixie Carter captured the scope of Panda’s approach saying: “By combining regenerative agriculture with clean, efficient technology, we’ve created a model that aligns with the future of sustainable textile manufacturing: local, traceable and circular. The result is not only a lower-impact natural fiber alternative but also a blueprint for how innovation and sustainability can coexist at industrial scale — right here in America.”
And that is the heart of the story, something that’s much bigger than a plant or a company, but is a new industry from farm field through final products.
Carter recently sat down with Textile World to share her take on creating a new industrial hemp ecosystem.
TW: How did the idea of developing a scalable industrial hemp ecosystem take shape?
Carter: After decades of building clean energy projects, Panda saw industrial hemp as the next frontier in sustainability. The same principles that powered Panda Energy’s success — innovation, efficiency and environmental responsibility — now drive Panda Biotech as we build a fully integrated, zero-waste hemp fiber ecosystem here in America.
TW: How did your previous executive experiences assist you in your role at Panda?
Carter: Throughout my career, I’ve led collaborations with some of the world’s most recognized brands across entertainment, fashion, merchandising and industry. My expertise lies in building brands that connect deeply with people — through storytelling, marketing strategy, global partner-ships and capital development. At Panda Biotech, those same principles apply. We’re building a movement as much as a business — reintroducing American-grown, American-processed hemp fiber to the global textile market.
TW: How does Chairman Bob Carter’s “no excuses” leadership style, influence your management approach?
Carter: Bob’s no excuses leadership sets a tone of accountability and action. He believes every challenge has a solution —and that mindset has become the heartbeat of Panda Biotech’s culture. This mindset reinforces that there’s always a way forward, but it requires discipline, collaboration, and an unwillingness to let obstacles become excuses.
TW: What milestones has Panda Biotech achieved in the development of American Hemp?
Carter: Panda Biotech’s momentum has been built through a series of strategic milestones from purchasing the building, sourcing the right equipment and building out our facility, raising capital, finding the right seed to grow in our region, partnering with farmers and then working with them to have a successful harvest, commissioning the equipment, working with mills to dial in the right fiber for mass production, and so much more. Panda reinforced each milestone to build credibility, capacity, confidence, and a foundation for a truly American hemp supply chain with global reach and long-term sustainability.
One of the four hemp processing infeed conveyors at Panda Biotech’s Hemp Gin
TW: How has Panda’s sustainability focus impacted your choices in designing the Panda hemp gin?
Carter: Sustainability is not a single pillar of Panda’s business — it’s the foundation of everything we do. From the outset, our goal was to demonstrate that industrial hemp can be scaled in a manner that protects both people and the planet. We built the Panda Hemp Gin in Wichita Falls, Texas, to reflect that commitment in every detail.
Panda’s facility is the most advanced, large-scale industrial hemp processing operation in the Western Hemisphere — engineered for zero waste. Our mechanical cottonization process transforms U.S.-grown hemp into a fine, textile-grade fiber, eliminating the use of water or chemicals typically associated with degumming or scouring. Every part of the plant is utilized across multiple value streams.
TW: Building any facility is challenging enough, but what about making choices — like choosing to pursue mechanical cottonization or using renewable energy?
Carter: From the outset, our goal was to develop a model for large-scale natural fiber processing that could be both environmentally clean and commercially viable — not a pilot project, but a proof of concept for U.S. manufacturing. Our products are OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 certified, USDA BioPreferred®, and meet the highest standards for clean fiber production.
The fiber refining line installed at the 500,000-square-foot former GM facility.
Choosing mechanical cottonization was a pivotal decision. We considered bringing degumming in-house, but the water and chemical requirements ran counter to our sustainability goals. Instead, Panda created a textile-grade fiber using only mechanical cottonization, which had notably fewer short fibers and bundles, and was finer, softer, and longer — similar to degummed and scoured fiber. While this took us longer to achieve, we now have the best and best-priced, mechanically cottonized, textile-grade fiber in the world, at half the price of degummed hemp fiber. This process enables hemp to integrate seamlessly into existing cotton spinning systems, which is crucial for broad textile adoption.
TW: The Wichita Gin is a substantial development. How did you get your arms around the project, and what was the key to managing a team to execute the considerable plan?
Carter: From the outset, we knew that building the Panda Hemp Gin would be unlike any industrial project ever undertaken in this sector— both in scale and technical complexity. We traveled the world examining equipment and hemp facilities. We assembled an exceptional team of experts in mechanical design, automation, and industrial construction, many with decades of experience in large-scale facilities for the cotton, energy, and ag-processing industries. The state-of-the-art processing line, if measured end-on-end, spans 700 yards — or 7 football fields — with three miles of overhead pneumatic ducting, custom-engineered decortication systems, and a continuous flow design that has never been implemented for hemp at this capacity.
A project of this size demands clarity, collaboration, and commitment. We aligned every engineer and operator around one vision — to build some-thing historic — and that shared purpose made the impossible achievable.
TW: What is your personal connection to Wichita Falls and Seymour, Texas?
Carter: Our family had a ranch in Seymour, Texas, for more than 20 years, so we spent time in the closest big city, Wichita Falls. When we were searching for a building for our first hemp gin, our focus was on very large industrial buildings with high ceilings. When we found a 500,000-square-foot former GM facility on a 97-acre campus that also happened to be in a city where our family had history, we knew we had the perfect place.
TW: Panda’s Gin is just part of the story. Can you address Panda’s concentration on the hemp ecosystem — from the farm to merchantable product like the “Pay-to-Grow” program?
Carter: The Panda Hemp Gin is the center-piece of a much larger vision — building a truly scalable and sustainable hemp fiber ecosystem here in the United States. From the outset, we recognized that processing capacity alone wouldn’t be sufficient. To make hemp viable at scale, you need to connect every link in the chain, including regenerative farming, world-class mills, and finished consumer products.
That’s why we’ve invested heavily in programs that support farmers and mitigate risk for participation. Our Pay-to-Grow program was a cornerstone of that effort for us at the beginning. It ensured growers were compensated for their work while we provided them with genetically proven and consistent seed, agronomic guidance, and a guaranteed market for their harvested stalks. It was a true partnership model that fostered trust and created economic opportunities for American producers.
Beyond the farm, we’ve built relationships with yarn and textile mills, nonwoven manufacturers, and brands that are eager to integrate our U.S.-grown hemp fiber into their supply chains. The result is a fully domestic, traceable, and circular model — from seed to fiber to finished product — that helps revitalize rural economies while advancing the next generation of sustainable materials.
Panda uses only mechanical cottonization, which uses no water and yields fewer short fibers and bundles and at half the price of degummed and scoured hemp fiber.
TW: What is your vision for the future of industrial hemp?
Carter: Hemp is not a fashion trend. It is the future of textiles and fashion. Scientifically proven to absorb more carbon dioxide per acre than any forestry or commercial crop, industrial hemp is the most transformative natural fiber opportunity of our time. It’s renewable, traceable, and circular by design— and it can be grown and processed at scale right here in the United States. Our vision is a global textile industry where hemp stands alongside cotton and synthetic fibers as a core, mainstream fiber — delivering performance, sustainability, and resilience. Early demand is coming from brands and mills that want to decarbonize their supply chains, starting with denim and knits. The long-term potential of hemp touches every sector of textiles.
TW: Are there any significant challenges in developing a vibrant industrial hemp future?
Carter: Any time a new natural fiber enters the global supply chain, the biggest challenge is consistency — mills and brands need to trust that the fiber will perform the same way, every time. Our focus has been on derisking the transition by producing cottonized hemp fiber that integrates seamlessly into existing spinning systems. We’ve partnered closely with leading mills to conduct extensive spinning trials, optimize blending ratios, and verify quality at scale. By delivering both performance data and a reliable domestic supply chain, we’re helping brands adopt hemp with confidence.
TW: Where does Panda Biotech go from here?
Carter: With the Panda Hemp Gin now fully operational, our focus turns to expanding the ecosystem — deepening partnerships with mills, manufacturers, and brands who are ready to integrate U.S.-grown, low-impact hemp fiber into their supply chains.
We’re also advancing our bioproducts portfolio, using every part of the plant to create renewable solutions across textiles, nonwovens, and industrial applications. At the same time, we’re working to strengthen our grower network, ensuring that regenerative hemp cultivation continues to create opportunity for U.S. farmers.
In many ways, this is just the beginning. The infrastructure is built, the partnerships are forming, and the demand for sustainable, traceable materials has never been stronger.
The editors of TW appreciate the opportunity to sit down with Panda Biotech’s President Dixie Carter. Her vision is both deep and wide with a bright future for American hemp. As Carter states, “Our mission now is to scale what we’ve proven — to show that sustainability can drive both performance and profitability, and that American innovation can once again lead the world in textile and materials manufacturing.”
