In the wake of DuPont Biomaterials’ rebranding to Covation Biomaterials, CEO Dr. Mike Saltzberg talks about its Sorona® polymer and the opportunity to expand the reach of its bio-based products as part of the Huafon Group.

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Commercialized in 2000, Sorona® polymer from Covation Biomaterials (CovationBio™) is not new but is now more relevant than ever as a demand for high-performance, sustainable textiles and circular production grows. CovationBio, formerly known as DuPont Biomaterials, took one of the first industry steps into this space when it launched Sorona for apparel and carpet end-uses in 2006. Sorona polymer features 37 percent renewable plant-based ingredients, which reduces the use of fossil fuels, and significantly improves environmental impact versus petro-based incumbent materials.

Bio-PDO™, the key ingredient for Sorona polymer, is produced from corn sugar, which is fermented in a process similar to beer brewing to create a bio-based 1,3-propanediol (Bio-PDO). When terephthalic acid is added to the Bio-PDO monomer, triexta — the generic name for a subclass of polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) polymers — is born. Sorona is CovationBio’s brand name for this polymer, which features attractive attributes such as exceptional drape, incredible hand feel, and built-in stain- and wrinkle-resistance, according to the company.

CovationBio reports that compared to nylon 6, Sorona consumes 30 percent less energy and results in 50 percent less greenhouse gas emissions.

CovationBio strives to enable a more circular economy — one in which affordable and high-performing biomaterials are accessible to everyone.

Textile World recently had the opportunity to speak with Dr. Mike Saltzberg, CEO of CovationBio, about Sorona’s origins, advantages, and future in a textile industry increasingly focused on sustainability.

TW: Sorona fiber was introduced in 2000, more than 20 years ago. What drove CovationBio to develop a fiber based on renewable plant-based ingredients?

Saltzberg: We were aware of the performance benefits of the Sorona PTT polymer based on research conducted in the 1950s and 1960s. However, the key monomer required to make Sorona — propanediol (PDO) — was not commercially available using petrol-based processes. Through groundbreaking innovation in biotechnology, we developed a plant-based fermentation route to manufacture PDO in an economically viable way that allowed us to commercialize Sorona. This Bio-PDO process also offers enormous environmental benefits versus a traditional petrochemical process.

TW: Sorona is partially plant-based. Are there other features of the fiber that make it more sustainable than traditional textile fibers?

Saltzberg: Sorona enables garments with exceptionally durable stretch and recovery, which means they retain their shape and have longer bagging resistance. This means end-consumers can hold on to their clothes longer, reducing the number of garments that consumers purchase over time and that end up as waste. Sorona also empowers a superior resistance to fading and pilling, which reduces micropolymer pollution caused by laundry. Finally, Sorona is mechanically recyclable in traditional polyester (PET) waste streams.

TW: What other properties make Sorona unique?

Saltzberg: Sorona exhibits many exciting performance attributes including exceptional softness, drape, quick-dry capability and even lightweight, breathable warmth when used in insulation. These attributes result in Sorona being used across a wide range of applications such as faux fur, puffer jackets, leggings and even cosmetic brushes. When spun in a bicomponent format together with PET, fibers are created with superior stretch and stretch recovery as compared with other elastomeric fibers like spandex.

TW: How is your team working to reduce global reliance on petroleum? Are there other fibers in development with a higher percentage of sustainable components?

Saltzberg: CovationBio supplies to industries that historically have relied on the production of petro-based man-made polymers for fashion, home textiles and industrial packaging. Now as part of the Huafon Group, a highly successful materials company, we are uniquely positioned to expand the reach of our current bio-based products and accelerate the introduction of new offerings and technologies to the market.

We will continue to build on our decades-long legacy and successful suite of products currently available in the market, including scalable, commercial offerings like Sorona and Susterra®, which are sourced from renewable feedstocks. Susterra is exciting as it provides a 100 percent plant-based, high-performance building block that reduces the need for petroleum-based components while enhancing end-product attributes.

Its applications range from footwear and outdoor apparel to coatings, inks and functional fluids.

We also have an exciting pipeline of innovations and materials in development and are working closely with our customers and stakeholders to deliver new products. This includes new materials that will enable high performance fibers that also have higher renewable and/or recycled content.

TW: In apparel, Sorona has found a myriad of applications. Talk about some of the innovative uses and how the fiber contributes to a more sustainable apparel industry.

Saltzberg: Sorona polymer can be spun into bicomponent stretch fibers, homofilament for shape memory fabrics, staple for use in insulation and spun yarns — in combination with natural fibers like cotton or wool — and other types of fibers. These fiber types can be incorporated into a wide variety of fabric qualities. We launched our Common Thread fabric certification program in 2020 to drive better trust and transparency throughout our supply chain.

Beyond the performance attributes for the five sub-brand fabric types — which include Agile, Aura, Luxe, Profile and Revive — our mills and brands using certified fabrics have access and permission to use our logos, proper brand colors and marketing language to discuss the bio-based components of the polymer included in the fabrics.

We are also seeing an increase in the use of Sorona for footwear. Using Sorona in footwear allows for movement, stretch and longer-lasting performance.

TW: Explain how Sorona is a suitable substitute for spandex? What are the environmental advantages of Sorona over spandex fibers?

Saltzberg: As mentioned earlier, when spun in a bicomponent format, Sorona-based fibers are created which “self-crimp,” meaning that they behave like tiny springs with a mechanical stretch and recovery effect. Traditional spandex gets its stretch from the elastomeric nature of the material itself, similar to a rubber band. This different stretch mechanism gives Sorona bicomponent fibers superior stretch recovery and durability to spandex. Sorona Agile is our sub-brand for spandex replacement for use in many, but not all, applications. Sorona Agile fabrics have better stretch and recovery than traditional spandex-based fabrics, while delivering superior recyclability and durability.

TW: How does Sorona differ from traditional carpet fibers? What sets the fiber apart?

Saltzberg: From a performance perspective, Sorona offers unparalleled softness, crush resistance and built-in stain resistance that is not available from other fiber types. Compared to nylon 6, Sorona production consumes 30 percent less energy and results in 50 percent less greenhouse gas emissions. In the carpet industry, Sorona carpets are generally regarded as the best option available on the market for consumers.

TW: How does CovationBio’s Sorona fiber impact the concept of circularity?

Saltzberg: Like other biomaterials, Sorona reduces society’s reliance on fossil feedstocks by providing an alternative source of high-performance chemicals and materials. Another important aspect of the circular economy is reducing consumers’ overall consumption and thus their waste production. As mentioned previously, part of this is enabling customers to reduce the amount of clothing they are buying and sending to a landfill. Sorona empowers garments with attributes that make it longer lasting and looking newer for longer.

It is, however, important to note that Sorona is not a biodegradable polymer but is mechanically recyclable in a traditional PET waste stream.

TW: What is the impact of the Common Thread Fabric Certification Program?

Saltzberg: In March of 2020, CovationBio launched its Common Thread Fabric Certification Program, a brand architecture and hangtag program designed to bring clarity and transparency for designers, apparel brands, and end customers. New fabric collections offered by mills are tested and certified through the program to assure the fabrics meet a certain level of biobased content and quality standards.

TW: How is the CovationBio team working to address the textile landfill issue?

Saltzberg: The number of textiles discarded and ending up in a landfill is directly connected to their durability. By extending the useful life and improving the performance of garments, particularly stretch garments, Sorona is reducing the amount of clothing wearers need to purchase.

For example, stretch fabrics and garments such as leggings made with Sorona-based fibers maintain their stretch performance and comfort through many more wash cycles than similar fabrics made with fossil-based spandex, helping customers and brands produce less textile waste.

July/August 2022

Glen Raven is “Continuing its Pattern of Good” as it shares progress towards its goals set in its inaugural corporate sustainability report.

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Glen Raven Inc., Burlington, N.C., recently released a report detailing the company’s progress in 2021 towards its goals set forth in its inaugural corporate sustainability report.

“When we issued our first corporate sustainability report last year, we wanted to share a set of aspirational goals to inspire advancement,” said CEO Leib Oehmig. “This updated report is another step in that journey, further demonstrating our commitment to accountability with metrics about our progress so that we can keep striving for improvement.

“Glen Raven desires to have a positive impact on our global community by supporting the planet on which we live and the communities that we serve,” Oehmig noted. “Throughout the company’s history, this is Glen Raven. It’s who we are as a company and it’s about doing the right thing. This is a reflection of the Gant family values and is core to Glen Raven.”

Textile World recently had the chance to catch up with Oehmig to discuss the company’s progress detailed in the report.

TW: The progress report focuses on two foundational pillars — “Supporting Our People and Communities” and “Sustaining Our Planet.” In what areas do you believe the company has made the most progress in the past year?

Oehmig: The year 2021 was a year in which we were really working to build some of the foundational elements. Supporting people and communities has been a hallmark and focus for Glen Raven throughout its 142 years.

So, in terms of new opportunities and sources of new, measurable improvement, I would say we have made more progress in sustaining our planet this year.

As was noted in the report, over the past couple of years we have gone from zero use of renewable electricity to now 25 percent use. Outside the United States — both in France and China — we have achieved 100-percent utilization of renewable energy.

Additionally, we were very deliberate in terms of our desire and intention as it relates to sustaining our planet when working on the design for our new capital projects to expand capacity. It really gave us an opportunity to look at power utilization and efficiencies in equipment and process design in ways that would be most impactful.

We are equipping our plants with state-of-the-art weaving machines, LED lighting and modern HVAC systems. These improvements, and others, helped us decrease our scope 1 and 2 carbon emissions by 33 percent between 2019 and 2021. As it relates to our broad sustainability efforts, it certainly was an opportunity to see the measurable impact we are having and that really provides the motivation to push further and to aspire to do much more.

This report gives us the opportunity to drive a stake in the ground and not only look for new and innovative ways to support both our associates and the communities that we serve, but also to hold ourselves accountable.

TW: Tell us about the steps Glen Raven has taken to foster a more diverse and inclusive workplace. How has the plan impacted and fortified the company’s existing culture?

Oehmig: We’ve always viewed ourselves as a relatively diverse company. When you consider that we operate in 23 countries, we’ve always had a global point of view and certainly have benefited from differing points of view and different cultures. For us, it came down to being able to identify new opportunities and then establish goals that we can share with our associates and collectively hold ourselves accountable to do more.

As I mentioned, this really was a foundational year for Glen Raven. We engaged BSR [Business for Social Responsibility™] — a leader in diversity, equity and inclusion [DEI} — to help guide our journey to fostering a diverse and inclusive workplace. We defined what constitutes leadership and first line supervision across our regions and divisions to establish a clear baseline for measurement, among other foundational actions.

From a cultural standpoint, the company reflects the values of the founders — the Gant family — and how we can support both our associates and the communities that we serve has always been top of mind for us.

TW: Some 73 percent of Glen Raven employees recommended the company as a great place to work. But given the nature of the current economy with low labor participation and low unemployment, how difficult has it been to attract and retain new associates?

Oehmig: It has been difficult. We are operating in the same environment as our peers, and across all industry sectors it appears we have similar challenges. Part of Glen Raven’s communication with current and prospective employees is to make that compelling case — to be transparent about things we are doing that have a positive impact on our global community and to really articulate why Glen Raven is a great place to work.

But also, our industry continues to work to tell the story about the textile industry today versus what it may have been for our parents’ and grandparents’ generation. If you are successful in the textile industry today, it’s likely you are doing something pretty special. So, it’s not only us telling Glen Raven’s story and what makes it compelling in terms of working here, but also from a broader industry perspective we are working across the industry and for our peers to help tell the story of what a great place it is from an industry sector point of view.

TW: How receptive have employees been to the people goals, particularly in volunteering?

Oehmig: Very receptive. We have a community impact team that works to identify causes our associates are passionate about because we really want to respond to the communities that we serve. We currently serve more than 200 charities globally.

We want to determine where Glen Raven can make the greatest impact on our global community, and where we can focus our resources to allow us to move to needle in the greatest way. For us to be able to look for new and impactful ways to support the communities in which we operate is a tremendous priority.

One of the areas we have focused on, but now are really shining a light on, is early childhood education. That is not only through a teacher leadership academy that we support, but also in China where we are supporting a program that helps support young children to make sure they have the resources that they need to get a great start and achieve early success. Studies show you need to make an impact before a child reaches the third grade, and that’s why Glen Raven has identified early childhood education as an area of focus.

TW: In serving the community, what areas have been most impactful over the past year?

Oehmig: We really try to respond to the individual needs of each community, whether that is disaster relief, keeping the community clean, or supporting children in need, for example. There was so much hardship related to the pandemic and supporting families and children who lacked basic needs was a focus. We have reached out to individual communities and let them make the decisions at the local level in terms of where the company can make the biggest impact.

TW: In terms of global impact, what has been the most important thing Glen Raven has achieved in the “Sustaining the Planet” pillar?

Oehmig: Number one is diverting waste from the landfill. We have a goal to implement 100 percent landfill-free practices by the end of this year, and we’re proud to have reached a diversion from landfill rate of 97 percent for the overall company in 2021.

Number two is energy management. Twenty-Five percent of our energy usage comes from renewable sources now. And as stated earlier, we are actively working to reduce emissions.

And finally, number three is the increased utilization of recycled materials — making products using recycled content, as well as working throughout the supply chain to help recycling efforts to collect fabrics and bring them back for reprocessing. We have improved our use of recycled materials 50 percent since 2019 and are designing new products that will increase the use of recycled content. We also have recycling efforts underway, “Recycle My Sunbrella®” being one of those efforts, where we have recycled more than a million pounds of fabric to date. That’s something we’ve put a heightened focus on with a goal of recycling another million pounds by 2025.

TW: Are products featuring recycled content different from standard products, or marketed differently?

Oehmig: All of these recycled programs are under the Sunbrella® brand, and therefore they have to meet the same performance attributes as their peer products. We’re not going to jeopardize the brand promise from a product design standpoint. When we first started creating products utilizing recycled materials, we came at it with the sustainability story, but what we found is that products were adopted more for their aesthetics and the design. The recycled content piece was secondary. But, that gives us a great story to tell — it not only means we have a positive impact on the planet, but we’re also designing beautiful products that meet the same performance criteria and have the same performance attributes as all of our Sunbrella products.

TW: Has the dramatic increase in energy prices since the goals were originally created impacted the company’s progress towards energy sustainability?

Oehmig: To date, it has not. We remain focused on the goals that we outlined, and as I mentioned 25 percent of our energy today comes from renewable sources. We do feel that we will remain on that track.

Obviously in Europe, we’re facing incredible challenges. But that is where we use more renewable energy and I don’t see that slowing down. We have a presence in France, which is one of the leading adopters of renewable energy, so that is certainly positive. And we are using biomass in China. In its five-year plan it has its own sustainability goals with renewable energy as a piece of that, and we are participating there.

Certainly, the United States is where we are now very aggressively working to move more of our own requirements to certified renewable sources. That move has been a bigger focus over the past couple of years, but our interest in renewables goes back to 2011 when we built our first solar installation. Glen Raven now owns two of the largest privately held solar installations in North and South Carolina, which was all part of our learning curve. We started down this path towards utilization of renewable energy making sure that we understand the implications and how to make the most of our efforts.

TW: Do you foresee any business challenges that may affect Glen Raven’s future sustainability progress?

Oehmig: We have to adapt to the environment in which we are operating, and our resolve to meet these objectives has not wavered at all.

Glen Raven has always operated under the mantra of “do the right thing,” and now the next generation of shareholders, associates, prospective employees and customers really want transparency and they want to know what you stand for. They want to know not only which markets you participate in and how you’re going to participate, but they also want to know why we participate, which is really the purpose of why we exist and how we can make a positive impact on our global community. And that’s ultimately the foundation on which everything we have talked about today has been built.

July/August 2022