Milliken, Glen Raven Announce PFAS Elimination

Recently, Spartanburg, S.C.-based Milliken & Company announced it has eliminated all per- and poly-fluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) from its textile fibers and finishes portfolio. The company selected a PFAS-free durable water repellent technology readily available in the marketplace and accredited by bluesign® after an assessment period. In addition, Milliken —known historically for its textile chemistry innovations — developed a new non-PFAS soil release technology. However, after working to develop an alternative oil-repellent technology and deciding there was no suitable option, the company decided to exit those lines of business.

“This is a tremendous accomplishment and tribute to our team who worked around the clock to develop solutions that meet our customers’ performance requirements and reflect our purpose to positively impact the world for future generations,” said David Smith, executive vice president, Milliken & Company, and president, Milliken’s Textile Business.

Glen Raven Inc., Burlington, N.C. also reports it has begun to phase out PFAS chemicals across its global portfolio with all production to be transitioned to non-PFAS solutions by the end of 2023.

Glen Raven notes that the switch will not impact the ability to clean Sunbrella® fabrics, but will reduce the oil repellency. To combat this issue, Glen Raven has developed a proprietary cleaning solution for oil-based stains— Sunbrella Extract™Oil-Based Stain Remover.

“Since 2015, our global research and development team has been working with accredited research laboratories and universities to evaluate and develop the best alternatives to PFAS-based finishes,” said Dave Swers, president and COO of Glen Raven Custom Fabrics.“We have invested significantly in this work and the solutions we’re introducing will allow us to continue providing anyone who purchases our fabrics with the best-in-class performance they expect while minimizing our environmental impact as an organization. Our Sunbrella Contract fabrics have included non-PFAS solutions since 2019 and we look forward to implementing non-PFAS solutions across our portfolio.”

March/April 2023

GOLDTOE® Launches Free Sock Recycling Program In Partnership With TerraCycle®

TRENTON, N.J. — March 29, 2023 — In time for Earth Month, GOLDTOE® Socks is pleased to announce its Free Recycling Program in partnership with TerraCycle®, an international recycling leader. The program will offer people an easy way to recycle used socks from any brand, which will then be made into new products. In return, users will be rewarded with points which can be used as donations to non-profits, schools or charitable organizations of their choice.

“We are pleased to partner with TerraCycle to provide customers with an innovative yet simple way to divert waste from landfills by giving new life to their socks,” says Gildan’s Vice President of Marketing Emma Budzisz. “At GOLDTOE, as part of leading apparel company Gildan, we believe that clothes should be made with respect from start to finish, and that includes the end-of life of our garments.”

“While commonplace in our lives, socks can be difficult to recycle,” says TerraCycle CEO and Founder, Tom Szaky. “Through this program, GOLDTOE is encouraging consumers to embed responsible practices into their daily lives by cleaning out their drawers and doing some good for the planet and their community, all without compromising convenience.”

GOLDTOE’s partnership with TerraCycle is one of Gildan’s sustainability initiatives. With more than 20 years of experience in the space, the company has operated with the belief that apparel should be made with respect for the environment, for people and for communities. In 2022, the company announced a new set of goals committing to make further advances in different areas, including circularity.

GOLDTOE’s Free Recycling Program is open to any interested individual, office or community organization. It’s simple — mail in used socks of any brand using the prepaid shipping label provided, which can be found on the TerraCycle website. Once collected, the fabrics are separated into their respective categories (polyesters, cottons, etc.) and reused, upcycled, or recycled as appropriate. Additionally, every shipment of socks sent to TerraCycle® also earns points that can be converted into donations to a non-profit, school or charitable organization (terms and conditions apply) .

To participate or learn more, visit: https://www.terracycle.com/en-US/brigades/gildan-goldtoe.

Posted: March 29, 2023

Source: Gildan

Italy’s Trerè Innovation, Debuts First 100-Percent Line Of Biotech Base Layers In U.S.; Manufactured In Pennsylvania, Used By International Ski Teams

MARBLEHEAD, Mass. — March 29, 2023 — Trerè Innovation, a global supplier of sustainable technical Italian apparel, footwear design and manufacturing from Asola, Italy, is launching the world’s first line of 100-percent bio-based base layers in the U.S. using Biotech, natural and plant-based materials, resulting in petroleum-free sportswear reducing the footprint of the textile industry on the planet. UYN’s high-performance Biotech base layers are manufactured in Pennsylvania and will arrive at select retailers and online fall 2023. Together, the base layers, footwear and socks are part of Unleash Your Nature (UYN, pronounced “win”), Trerè Innovation’s first U.S. consumer brand being introduced now. UYN is scheduled to open its first store in Boston fall 2023.

“UYN is delivering the next generation of planet-friendly fabrics from responsibly harvested beech plants, castor oil seeds, kapok trees, eucalyptus trees and corn, among others using proprietary manufacturing processes at our in-house facilities; this is our clear point of difference,” said Marco Redini, Trerè Innovation CEO. “AREAS, our academy for research and engineering, enables our designers to create the highest quality garments, footwear and accessories meeting the most stringent performance standards resulting in best-in-class quality. Our base layers are trusted by 9 respected ski teams around the globe. With these assets and our proven skilled expertise, we intend to replicate our global success in the U.S. because the timing is right.”

Brand History

Trerè Innovation’s CEO Marco Redini’s father, Luigi Redini, founded the company in 1950, producing only stockings. Marco joined Trerè Innovation in 1984, jumpstarting years of unprecedented growth as the brand entered the sportswear market. After perfecting its approach to the bio-based manufacturing process, Trerè Innovation introduced Unleash Your Nature in 2018 in 27 countries including Austria, France, Germany, Italy and Switzerland. During his tenure, Mr. Redini has built a global network providing design and technical expertise and, today, manufactures products for iconic brands, including Christian Dior, Harley-Davidson, PUMA and Rossignol, among others. Together, Trerè Innovation and UYN have garnered numerous awards, including the 2022 ISPO Award, 2022 Red Dot Design Award and 2021 Design Intelligence Award (DIA).

Biotech

The technology behind UYN’s Biotech base layer line originates from the brand’s veteran designers and Trerè Innovation’s Academy for Research and Engineering in Apparel and Sports (AREAS), its state of the art testing facility. The 38,000 sq. foot center has a climate wind tunnel, thermal mannequins, a rain room, a 3D body scanner and a sports medicine department.

UYN’s unique biotech components include:

  • BIOLIGHT: A plant-based fiber extracted from beech trees in responsibly managed forests. Biolight is breathable, bright, soft and able to retain twice as much moisture than cotton;
  • Ecolypt: A 100% sustainable natural fiber collected from eucalyptus trees providing strength and elasticity;
  • FLEXICORN: A plant-based bio-polyester yarn derived from corn that is extremely elastic, resilient, wrinkle resistant, UV-resistant and keeps its original shape longer than synthetic fibers;
  • KAPOK: Is the lightest organic fiber in the world and used for its natural insulation, hypoallergenic, soft and antibacterial properties. KAPOK is derived from pristine forests by hand without pesticides or fertilizers;
  • Natex®: A 100% bio-based material made from castor oil seeds that results in a lightweight, elastic and bacteriostatic material for minimizing odors

Footwear

UYN is the first brand to make footwear out of socks without seams and uses natural materials including: paper cotton, merino and yak wool, as well as bio-based materials including Natex and Ecolypt. The footwear is available now online https://uynsports.com/en_us and at select retailers.

U.S. Team

Entering as the head of sales, John Phaneuf has over 25 years of experience, previously having worked with adidas Terrex, Bern Helmets, Helly Hansen and Lacrosse Footwear. Phaneuf will work closely with E.J. Riordan, chief executive officer of TRE U.S., Elia Redini, executive manager at Trerè Innovation, who will focus on the U.S. market, and Sherry Davis, handling tactical sales.

“U.S. Consumers want to be outdoors and aligned with brands taking proactive actions to minimize the damage to the planet,” continued Redini “UYN provides a clear alternative to the U.S. marketplace because of our advanced design and in-house manufacturing and our sustainability commitment in every facet of our business. We look forward to introducing U.S. consumers to the UYN family.”

Posted: March 29, 2023

Source: Trerè Innovation

ITMA 2023: “Transforming The World Of Textiles”

Final preparations are underway for the 19th edition of ITMA to be held in Milan, Italy, this June.

TW Special Report

ITMA 2023 will be held June 8-14, 2023, at the Fiera Milano Rho fairgrounds in Milan, Italy. Milan is hosting ITMA for the sixth time since its inception at the now 19th edition of the show. ITMA is owned by the European Committee of Tex-tile Machinery Manufacturers (CEMATEX) and is organized by ITMA Services.

The show is regarded as the largest and most comprehensive global textile machinery trade show. Held once every four years, ITMA has evolved into a platform for emerging trends, innovative solutions, new knowledge and best practices. It is also known as a place to network and establish new relationships, as well as rekindle relationships and catch up with old friends.

The overall theme for ITMA 2023 is “Transforming the World of Textiles.” Four sub-themes under this umbrella title include advanced materials, automation and digital future, innovative technologies, and sustainability and circularity.

Global Uncertainties

On the tails of a global pandemic, organizers and exhibitors aren’t daunted by the current clouds of a global banking crisis and the war in Ukraine, among other economic difficulties. ITMA Services recently reported that the 200,000 square meters of exhibition space reserved for the exhibition at the Fiera Milano Rho is 100-percent booked by exhibitors. More than 1,600 exhibitors from 44 countries are expected in Milan and there is a waitlist for exhibition space of some 100 companies.

“Since the last ITMA exhibition in Barcelona in 2019, the world has changed drastically due to the coronavirus pandemic and geopolitical situation,” said Charles Beauduin, chairman of ITMA Services. “Despite various disruptions, we are glad that space in ITMA 2023 is fully booked. Companies are buoyant about the outlook of the market with most borders now fully open.”

With Italy as the host country, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT) reports Italy-based exhibitors are fully committed to ITMA 2023. “Our manufacturers are very confident about next June’s event,” said ACIMIT President Alessandro Zucchi. “As shown by the figures on the Italian presence at the event: Almost 400 Italian exhibitors, about 36,000 square meters, with an increase in the occupied surface area of over 20 percent compared to the previous edition held in Barcelona. 30 percent of the total exhibition area at ITMA 2023 will be taken up by Italian machinery manufacturers.”

ACIMIT is promoting the activities of its members at ITMA 2023 under the theme “Shaping the Future.” “Shaping the future is a concept that aims to show how Italian manufacturers are key players in the development of the entire textile supply chain, able to outline virtuous paths that testify to the proactive nature of the entire sector and that enables the future of the sector to be shaped through the three pillars, technology, digitalization, and sustainability, which are also the key themes of ITMA 2023,” Zucchi explained.

Zucchi did caution that positive results in 2022 for Italy-based machinery manufacturers — includ-ing production and export increases of more than 10 percent year-on-year — do not cancel out obstacles companies continue to face. “The critical issues following the COVID-19 pandemic have been amplified by the ongoing Russian-Ukrainian conflict,” Zucchi noted. “Even in this early 2023, unfavorable conditions to business still exist, such as high inflation, constraints on the functioning of value chains, and energy commodity prices above the average of recent years. However, forecasts prepared by our Economic Office show an improvement in the second half of the year and in the 2024-26 period, which gives us hope.”

ACIMIT suggested that ITMA 2023 could be a driving force to stimulate investment in the global textile industry.

At a recent press conference to discuss ITMA and why it is the “greatest show on earth,” Cornelia Buchwalder, secretary general of the the Swiss Textile Machinery Associa-tion —the representative body for Switzerland’s producers of textile equipment, systems and services —reminded attendees that ITMA serves as a benchmark of progress in the textile industry.

“Not only for us, but for the visitors from the textile manufacturers, ITMA is vitally important, and a major element in the overall development of the textile industry world-wide,” Buchwalder said. “The 2023 ITMA is fully booked — clear evidence of its continued appeal as the essential marked place for textile machinery. … ITMA remains a four-yearly milestone in technology, where industry visitors rightly expect to see the best and latest ideas from their suppliers.”

Like ACIMIT, the Swiss Textile Machinery Association also reports robust participation from its member companies at ITMA 2023. “… its importance is underlined by the participation of more than 50 Swiss exhibitors, most of which are members of the textile machinery association. We will be there in Milan, because we know it’s the perfect opportunity to show the world what we offer,” Buchwalder emphasized.

She also pointed out during the press conference that while much information is available online today, there still is nothing better or more exciting than seeing a new machine running live and in person. “Live demonstrations at timed intervals are often crowded with eager visitors —for a good reason,” Buchwalder said. “It’s the way to be inspired and find solutions that could literally change your business outlook, and actually grow your profits.
“Ultimately, ITMA is a celebration of achievements of the global textile community, and an opportunity to foster the kind of innovative developments that future generations will be proud of,” she concluded.

Visitor Attractions

ITMA offers plenty for visitors to do and see. The comprehensive range of exhibits spans some 20 sectors of the textile industry. The sector plan color codes exhibits to help visitors find what they are most interested in seeing at the show (See Figure 1).

Innovation is the name of the game, and ITMA offers several ways for visitors to learn about the latest textile innovations. The Start-Up Valley is a new initiative featuring companies in early stages of developments “with new and game changing solutions and technologies to support and inspire innovation for the textile, garment and fashion industry.” Sixteen start-ups were selected by an expert panel from a pool of applicants.
ITMA 2023’s Research & Innovation Lab forms a hub for innovation at the show. The lab features 20 organizations from 11 countries to showcase new developments from educational and research institutions as well as the industry. The Innovation Video Showcase also will highlight innovations in materials, and textile and garment technologies offered by exhibitors.

In addition, the ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award will recognize the achievements of the global textile industry in advancing sustainability using innovative solutions and notable research.

Education Opportunities

Visitors to ITMA 2023 also can take advantage of the education offerings hosted by ITMA as well as partner organizations (See “Collocated & Associated Events”). This year, ITMA is hosting the complimentary Innovator Xchange event. The sessions will focus on the ITMA Innovation Award winners and finalists as well as the four ITMA sub-themes of advanced materials, automation and digital future, innovative technologies, and sustainability and circularity. ITMA also is again offering the Textile Colourants and Chemicals Forum as well as the Nonwovens Forum. Partner events include the ZDHC Impact Day 2023 and Planet Textiles.

New 2023 Show Features

Organizers have launched the ITMAconnect platform for 2023 show participants. The year-round sourcing platform and knowledge hub is now open and comprises five main facets — an agenda to view, bookmark and register for ITMA events; artificial-intelligence powered business matching to pair people, companies and products for in-person meetings; exhibitor digital space to learn more about the participating companies; a schedule to view and manage meetings and events; and a smart messaging system for chat and video calls with exhibitors. The platform allows visitors to engage prior to the exhibition, and conversations will also be able to continue after the event.

ITMA is hosting 45-minute onboarding webinars for visitors to learn about the ITMAconnect plat-form. Upcoming sessions take place April 11, April 27 and May 9. Visit the ITMA website to learn more and RSVP for a session.

In addition, the ITMA website now features a smart exhibitor list with integrated floor plan. This inter-active floor plan allows visitors to explore and locate exhibitors on the show floor while learning more about the product offerings.

Register To Attend

Visitor registration is currently open. To encourage visitors to register ahead of time, ITMA is offering an early bird rate through May 7, 2023, on its website. Visitors may purchase a one-day pass for 40 euros and a seven-day pass for 80 euros. After May 7, rates rise to 55 euros for a one-day badge and 95 euros for a seven-day badge. On site rates are 85 euros to attend for one day or 125 euros to attend for all seven. Students are welcomed anytime June 10-14 at a discounted rate of 25 euros for a five-day badge. The show is open June 8-13 from 10:00 a.m. until 6:00 p.m. each day. On June 14, the show opens at 10:00 a.m. and closes at 4:00 p.m.

Looking Forward To Innovations, Collaboration

“Our visitors can look forward to ITMA 2023 to preview the latest innovation,” said CEMATEX President Ernesto Maurer. “We hope that textile and garment manufacturers, brands and retailers will take this opportunity to meet at ITMA to source and collaborate with leading members of the textile industry. In addition, they can also gain insights into industry trends and developments at various complementary events.

“Sustainability is no longer just a buzzword; the industry has to move faster to adopt the sustain-ability agenda to secure the future of their business,” Maurer also noted. “During the pandemic, many of our members channeled their resources into R&D activities. ITMA 2023 is perfectly timed to offer our exhibitors an opportunity to showcase these new products and cutting-edge technology. If, and when, R&D is paired with sustainability efforts, this will be the formula for success.”

Colocated & Associated Events

Thursday, June 8

ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award Presentation
(By invitation only)
Launched in 2015 by CEMATEX, the awards honor collaborative efforts in innovative and sustainable products in two categories —Industry Excellence and Research & Innovation Excellence.

Friday, June 9

ITMA Textile Colourants and Chemicals Forum
10:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.

The fourth iteration of the forum will cover trending subjects in the textile colorants and chemical industry including reducing carbon footprints in chemical treatment, improving dyehouse output treatment, fiber fragmentation and working towards safe and sustain-able chemistries. Content is aimed at brands and retailers; color and chemical specialists; dyestuff, color and chemical manufacturers; sustainability managers; and technical engineers and dyehouse managers. Featured keynote speakers are Prasad Pant, director, South Asia, ZDHC Foundation, India; and Sophie Mather, co-founder and executive director, The Microfibre Consortium, England. Registrants must be ITMA 2023 visitors with a valid ITMA badge. The forum has an additional registration fee of 219 euros (or 189 euros with a supporting organization preferential rate). VAT at the prevailing rate, if applicable, will be added to the registration fee.

Innovator Xchange — Presentation by ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award Winners and Finalists
10:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m.

Winners and finalists of the ITMA Sustainable Innovation Awards will present their innovations to a wider audience. Innovator Xchange events are free to attend with a valid ITMA 2023 visitor badge.

Saturday, June 10

ITMA Nonwovens Forum
10:30 a.m.-4:00 p.m.

The forum focuses on expanding nonwovens applications and integrating nonwovens manufacturing into current manufacturing operations. Topics cover nonwovens machinery and processes, emerging applications, trends and the latest innovations in nonwovens manufacturing with sustainability in mind. Dr. Bryan Haynes, technical director, Global Nonwovens, England-based Kimberly-Clark Corp., will present the keynote speech. Registrants must be ITMA 2023 visitors with a valid ITMA badge. The forum has an additional registration fee of 219 euros (or 189 euros with a supporting organization preferential rate). VAT at the prevailing rate, if applicable, will be added to the registration fee.

Innovator Xchange —Advanced Materials
10:30 a.m.-4:00 p.m.

ITMA’s Innovator Xchange offers visitors the chance to learn about the innovations on display at ITMA as well as gain insight from industry experts in four trending areas over four days of sessions. The keynote speaker for the first session, Advanced Materials, is Parikshit Goswami, professor of Technical Textiles at the University of Huddersfield, England. Goswami’s areas of expertise include flexible materials and chemistries for functionalizing textiles. Innovator Xchange events are free to attend with a valid ITMA 2023 visitor badge.

Sunday, June 11

Innovator Xchange —Automation & Digital Future
10:30 a.m.-4:00 p.m.

ITMA’s Innovator Xchange offers visitors the chance to learn about the innovations on display at ITMA as well as gain insight from industry experts in four trending areas over four days of sessions. The keynote speaker for the second session, Automation & Digital Future, is Kevin McCoy, vice president Made, New Balance Athletics Inc., Boston. McCoy is a product expert with experience in footwear development from ideation to mass production. Innovator Xchange events are free to attend with a valid ITMA 2023 visitor badge.

Partner Event — ZDHC Impact Day 2023 organized by the ZDHC Foundation

The ZDHC Impact Day 2023 will highlight the organization’s efforts, achievements and impact over the past year. The group also will share its new strategy for the next seven years including the Roadmap to Zero until 2030. The event is open to ZDHC contributors, friends of ZDHC and selected industry stakeholders. Contributors receive two free tickets. The fee for in-person attendees is 599 euros, and 199 euros for virtual participants. Attendees must have a valid ITMA 2023 badge.

Monday, June 12

Innovator Xchange — Innovative Technologies
10:30 a.m.-4:00 p.m.

ITMA’s Innovator Xchange offers visitors the chance to learn about the innovations at ITMA as well as gain insight from industry experts in four trending areas over four days of sessions. The keynote speaker for the third session, Innovative Technologies, is Dr. Jess S. Jur, director of Ecosystem Technology, Advanced Functional Fabrics of America Inc., Cambridge, Mass. Dr. Jur leads efforts to discover advanced textile technologies for the defense market. Innovator Xchange events are free to attend with a valid ITMA 2023 visitor badge.

Partner Event — Planet Textiles Day 1, organized by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition
8:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.

Planet Textiles is an international sustainability conference organized by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC). This year’s two-day event will cover the latest Higg Index updates, the role of manufacturers in driving change and the future of science-based targets, as well as explore innovations in circularity, sustainability measurement, decarbonization, and more. Participants must be registered ITMA 2023 attendees with a valid ITMA badge. Tickets cost 340 euros for non-governmental organizations/non-profit personnel, 750 euros for SAC members, and 850 euros for non-SAC members.

Tuesday, June 13

Innovator Xchange — Sustainability and Circularity
10:30 a.m.-4:00 p.m.

ITMA’s Innovator Xchange offers visitors the chance to learn about the innovations at ITMA as well as gain insight from industry experts in four trending areas over four days of sessions. The keynote speaker for the fourth session, Sustainability and Circularity, is Germán García Ibánez, head of Sustainable Raw Materials & Circularity, Edificio Inditex, Spain. García Ibánez is focused on sustainable raw material sourcing strategies, next generation materials, dyeing technologies, textile-to-textile recycling, traceability and impact measurement. Innovator Xchange events are free to attend with a valid ITMA 2023 visitor badge.

Partner Event —  Planet Textiles Day 2
8:00 a.m. — 5:00 p.m.

March/April 2023

Less C02 Consumption + Sustainable + Recyclable = Composites Made By Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA)At JEC World 2023

PARIS — March 29, 2023 — Sustainability first — this is the principle of the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University in hall 6 booth S74 at JEC World 2023. ITA combines various lightweight construction technologies to reduce C02 emissions and to use renewable and/or recyclable raw materials. ITA presents innovations in the production of reinforcing fibres and in the textile processing of high-modulus fibers. It also shows the impregnation of high-modulus fibres with thermosetting and thermoplastic matrix systems.

Experience a production technology that continuously produces tubular reinforcement profiles! The production of these reinforcement profiles is based on thermoplastic matrices and wound semi-finished reinforcement textiles.

At the ITA booth, you will be able to experience and discuss the entire process chain from fibre production and processing to the finished component with innovations at all levels. We offer you cooperation along the entire process chain for composite production and in the investigation and development of sustainably designed processes and products.

ITA will be exhibiting at Stand Hall 6 S74 together with Textechno, Mönchengladbach, Germany, textile testing equipment and Maruhachi Fukui, Japan, Thermoplastic Composite Material Systems. The Interreg AACOMA project will also be presented at the stand.

Please visit us in Hall 6 Stand S74 – we look forward to seeing you there!

Posted: March 29, 2023

Source: The Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University

Knowledge, Experience Set To Gather In Atlanta

Collocated events Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas return to the GWCC on their new, odd-year biennial schedule.

TW Special Report

It’s a tall order to organize a major trade show once every two years. It’s an even bigger challenge to host a large, collocated event in back-to-back years. But to fall in sync with Germany-based sister shows’ Techtextil and Texprocess schedule, Atlanta-based Messe Frankfurt Inc. was tasked with hosting Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas in 2022 and again in 2023 to put the events on track with an odd-year biennial schedule.

It’s surely nerve-racking for organizers wondering if the industry will respond and support the show under the less-than-ideal circumstances, and in and ITMA year to boot! But Messe Frankfurt is optimistic that the textile industry will remain faithful and support Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas 2023 despite the back-to-back shows in consecutive years.

Techtextil North America is incorporated with ATME-I, and Texprocess Americas is coproduced by SPESA — the industry association for suppliers to the sewn products industry. Organizers expect more than 350 companies from more than 30 countries to participate in the events scheduled May 10-12, 2023, at the Georgia World Congress Center (GWCC) in Atlanta.

Entire Industry In One Place

The two-in-one event gathers the entire textile value chain in one place giving visitors access to products, technologies and solutions for virtually any textile application.
Visitors will see a wide variety of product categories at Techtextil North America representing the value-added chain in the technical textiles and nonwovens sectors including Research, Development, Planning, Consulting; Technology, Machinery, Accessories; Fibers & Yarns; Woven Fabrics, Laid Webs, Braiding, Knitted Fabrics; Nonwovens; Coated Textiles, Canvas Products; Composites; Bondtec; Functional Apparel Textiles; Associations; and Publications.

Techtextil North America exhibits are further classified according to 12 application areas: Agrotech; Buildtech; Clothtech; Geotech; Hometech; Indutech; Medtech; Mobiltech; Oekotech; Packtech; Protech; and Sporttech.

Texprocess Americas is promoted as the largest North American trade show displaying equipment and technology for the development, sourcing and production of sewn products. Product groups and services covered include: design, product development and automation technology; contract manufacturing and sourcing; production preparation and organization; cutting room and automation technology; fabrics and materials; fusing, setting and manufacturing preparation; textile machinery; textile finishing; knitting technology; embroidery technology; stitching, joining and fastening technology and materials; product processing and finishing; energy, air conditioning, disposal and recycling; quality control; internal material flow; textile logistics; information technology; services, consultancy and training; and research and development.

The collocated events also will feature three international pavilions in 2023 — from Germany, China and Taiwan — as well as the SEAMS Sup-ply Chain USA Pavilion.

New For 2023

To attract visitors, new show features have been developed. “Our team is dedicated to ensuring that this year’s show offers meaningful exhibitor and attendee experiences through a host of new show features,” said Kristy Meade, vice president of Technical Textiles & Technology Shows, Messe Frankfurt Inc. “We continue to track new trends, technologies, and developments across the industry and bring them to the forefront through comprehensive education and programs.”

The show floor will feature a new Tech/Start-Up Zone that groups together companies with innovative solutions, processes and products that are advancing the global and technical textiles and nonwovens industries.

Messe Frankfurt also is introducing the Innovation Awards, which will recognize outstanding performance in research, new materials, products and technologies. Awarded innovations will be on display on the show floor for visitors to explore.

The new Career and Training Center is a gathering spot for attendees to learn about job openings, meet prospective employers and build a resume in addition to learning about the industry’s career options from representatives from the Textile Technology Center at Gaston College. A professional photographer also will be on site to take headshots for interested attendees.

The Career and Training Center also will feature the “Training Takes Time” program hosted by SPESA (see sidebar).

“For the first time in more than two decades, we’re witnessing an exciting rebirth for the sewn products industry in the Western Hemisphere,” said Michael McDonald, President of SPESA. “Attending Texprocess Americas — the largest show of its kind in North, Central, and South America — is the first step for industry players to be a part of this massive movement in reshoring, nearshoring, and regional collaboration. The 2023 edition of the show is aiming to elevate attendee experience even more by adding in new components that foster learning, networking, and professional growth. I’m confident this is going to be the best show yet.”

Education Options

Visitors to Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas can take advantage of educational opportunities through symposium sessions, Student Research Poster Program and Tech Talks.

Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas each will host symposium sessions on various topics of interest. Visitors can choose a one- or two-day symposium pass when registering. The website for each show will list all of the topics and speakers as the event date gets closer and speakers are finalized.

The Student Research Poster Program returns in 2023, offering undergraduate and graduate students the opportunity to share their research. Students’ work will be on display during the event and live presentations give the students the chance to engage with industry.

The show floor also will feature Tech Talks, complimentary presentations on a variety of topics including sustainability, empowering and growing workforces using technology, the next generation of technical designers, and more.

Opening Night Reception

On Wednesday, May 10 from 6 p.m. until 10 p.m., SPESA and Messe Frankfurt are hosting an official Opening Night Reception for Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas 2023. To be held at the Delta Sky360° Club at the Mercedes-Benz Stadium adjacent to the GWCC, the event includes a stadium tour covering the field, owner’s suite and locker room. This ultimate fan experience includes entertainment, food and an open bar with the purchase of a separate ticket.

Planning And Preparation

The GWCC is located in downtown Atlanta, which offers many hotels, restaurants and entertainment options in close proximity to the trade show. Show hours are from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, and from 10 a.m. until 3 p.m. on Friday.
Visitors need only purchase an exhibit hall badge for one of the shows to gain access to both Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas. Symposium and opening night reception tickets are available as add-ons. All pricing and deadlines, as well as hotel and transportation information, are available on the events’ respective websites.
“The industry is rapidly evolving, and we’re excited for attendees and exhibitors of Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas to have a front row seat to the action,” Meade said.

“Training Takes Time”: Texprocess Americas 2023 Introduces Show Floor Training Program

At the upcoming Texprocess Americas 2023, SPESA is launching a brand-new show floor training program brought to life by Merrow Sewing Machine Co. and the Industrial Sewing and Innovation Center (ISAIC)— both SPESA members. The program will incorporate hands-on demonstrations with augmented reality tools to introduce replicable and scalable teaching methods for machine repair and maintenance that can help scale the industry and support growth in the Americas.

Named “Training Takes Time,” the launch is the beginning of a “long-term initiative designed to promote quality training regimens that start in the U.S. and have the potential to expand to other markets across the Americas.”

As part of the program, Texprocess Americas attendees have the chance to register free of charge for 12 two-day training programs — aimed at mechanics, machine operators and facility managers — taking place in Boston, Miami and Los Angeles in 2023 and 2024. After Texprocess Americas ends, the training classes will be on offer for $1,800 per person.
“Using augmented reality tools, experienced technicians can virtually impart knowledge on less experienced employees and incoming trainees,” said Alex Stchekine, Research & Innovation manager at ISAIC. “Technicians and instructors no longer have to be in the same room to share information, which is especially helpful for people who need to learn on the job over a longer period of time. Augmented reality technology is capable of merging two real-time video streams to demonstrate how to solve issues and teach competencies, saving time and money dispensed to travel from one facility to another.”

“There has been a massive push to bring the production of soft goods back to the Americas,” said Charlie Merrow, CEO of The Merrow Group Companies. “Training people here in the U.S. is how we support the reshoring movement. Not only are you providing people with the necessary skills and knowledge needed to find jobs, but you are also investing in your community and contributing to a more efficient and sustainable supply chain. Training is one key function to propelling the industry forward in the U.S. and the western hemisphere.”

“We have talked and talked about the importance of workforce development for the sewn products industry,” said SPESA President Michael McDonald. “Now we are turning words into action. Building and maintaining a strong workforce for the sewn products industry in the U.S. is critical. Having the Career Training & Innovation Center at Texprocess Americas this year will allow us to equip the next generation of mechanics, engineers, and specialists with the tools and resources needed to catapult the industry into its next chapter. I am looking forward to seeing Texprocess Americas serve as a backdrop to a larger industry movement here in the U.S.”

 

For more information about Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas 2023, please visit techtextil-north-america. us.messefrankfurt.com and texprocess-americas.us.messefrank furt.com

March/April 2023

Flex Factory: Hub For New Ideas

Dr. Andre West

NC State’s Dr. Andre West talks about the new Flex Factory and how it will benefit students and industry.

TW Special Report

When other universities reduced their textile education programs — melding polymer degrees into materials science, or disbanding textile departments all together — the Raleigh, N.C.-based NC State University’s Wilson College of Textiles took  a different route and committed fully to the textile industry. Today, the college is the only college in North America dedicated to textile education.

As the college looks to the future — what the students need, and what the industry needs in its future leaders — it looks at innovative ways to support all involved parties.That desire, coupled with current interest in nearshoring and the demand for U.S.-produced textile products, led the college to identify a need for a space to help creative and entrepreneurial types get new product and business ideas off the ground.

To that end, the college recently announced the Flex Factory — a one-stop-shop offering resources such as high-tech equipment, knowledge, expertise and supplies — open to students, researchers, start-ups and industry where ideation, innovation, collaboration with a focus on sustainable manufacturing can thrive. The idea is that the unique space will continue to evolve once it’s up and running so it can continually meet the needs of the textile industry.

Textile World recently spoke to Dr. Andre West, associate professor, and director of the Zeis Textiles Extension (ZTE) at the Wilson College of Textiles, about the Flex Factory. Before entering the world of academia as a professor, Dr. West — a graduate of England-based Huddersfield University with a degree in Textile Design —was involved in an entrepreneurial partner-ship that designed and produced a clothing collection that was showcased at London Fashion Week for two consecutive years. He also worked as a design consultant for a trend forecasting company and The Design Council of Great Britain. Later, after a move to the United States, Dr. West designed knitwear for a New York City-based fashion house before establishing his own knitwear business. This business grew into a vertical knitting and sewing operation that had showrooms in fashion markets nationwide as well as three retail locations.

Dr. West’s personal experience as an entrepreneur makes him an ideal person to understand the issues and potential roadblocks when developing new products or attempting to open a textile business — valuable experience as he helps the Wilson College of Textiles establish the Flex Factory.

Mesdan’s lab scale spinning equipment comprises four modules: laboratory carding machine; miniature draw frame; mini ring spinning lab; and mini lab knitter able to evaluate yarn cover, quality and evenness. This state-of-the-art lab equipment is versatile and allows work on different applications such as evaluating the capacity to use recycled fibers from shredding processes. Recycling post-production or post-consumer textiles is one of the tools for waste management; and it contributes to the UN Sustainable Development Goals. Furthermore, this equipment will allow the creation of new fiber blends, and let research and industrial partners evaluate the feasibility of yarn using these types of recycled fibers or carbon fibers.

TW: What is the Flex Factory?

Dr. West: This Flex Factory project is a two-phase project. Phase I,“The Prototype Lab,”is under-way to build out the equipment needed to make textile and apparel products, including yarn spinning, cutting, sewing, and printing equipment, at a research scale. Phase II involves a complete space up-fit and renovation to bridge our current Senior Design course space with the Flex Factory space, and add additional features including a materials library and conference rooms. It should be completed by the end of 2024.

In the Senior Design class, seniors in textile engineering and textile technology are grouped in teams of three to four students and assigned a year-long, industry-sponsored project. Over the course of the fall and spring semesters, teams experience the design process first-hand beginning in the fall with project planning, evaluating state-of-the-art technologies and ideation, and then moving into the iterative prototyping and testing process for their ideas in the spring. Senior Design culminates in a Design Day presentation where each team demonstrates the results of their hard work.

The Phase I Prototype Lab is a small-scale manufacturing space designed for creating textile-based products. It’s perfect for quickly prototyping new ideas and experimenting with innovative designs. The best part is it’s flexible— you can use it to make all sorts of things, from finished textile products to components or accessories used in other products.
One of a prototype’s most significant benefits is its efficiency.You only need a few outside resources to get started —just a tiny amount of space, energy, materials and time. For example, we can 3D print our own buttons or exactly match the sewing thread for a house digitally printed fabric using the digital dyeing Twine machine from Israel-based Twine Solutions. Because the Flex Factory is designed for small-scale production, you can make products in limited runs, which is excellent for testing the market and scaling up a business gradually.

The Mimaki TS300P-1800 is a 1.8-meter-wide roll-to-roll dedicated direct-to-textile and transfer paper printer delivering a hybrid of cost-effective dye sublimation or pigment printing while offering new levels of quality and productivity in digital textile printing. It is ideally suited to creating fashion, apparel, sportswear, furnishings and point-of-sale prototypes.

TW: Why build this  at the Wilson College  of Textiles at NC State University

Dr. West: The Wilson College of Textiles at NC State, with its 124-year history, is recognized as a world leader in textile education and research. It’s located in the Research Triangle region of North Carolina and serves as a global technology hub for textiles. Interestingly, North Carolina and its neighboring states employ 93 percent of the U.S. textile manufacturing workforce, with 49 percent of those jobs located within a three-hour drive of central North Carolina. That makes NC State and the local region critical for the textile industry’s growth.

The college and the surrounding area offer two essential components that are key to the industry’s success: technology and product innovation, and a robust supply chain that can effectively bring those innovations to market. Together, these elements form a powerful engine for textile growth and development.

Within the college is the department that I manage with our team of textile industry experts, Zeis Textiles Extension for Economic Development (ZTE). ZTE provides training and certification in textiles and programs for improvement and innovation and serves the textile industry’s prototyping and pilot production needs in its five laboratories — spun yarn, knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing, and physical testing.

Also, right across the street from the Flex Factory on Centennial Campus, we have Raleigh Founded, an entrepreneurial support organization that uses physical convening space, community connection, and hosts events. The NC State Entrepreneurship Garage is housed in this space and offers a venture creation and a common prototyping space designed for student entrepreneurs. It serves as a hub for students across campus to come together and explore their entrepreneurial ideas and interests. In partner-ship with Raleigh Founded, students call the Garage home where they work on challenges alongside non-university businesses. Members in this space have access to hundreds of entrepreneurial-minded peers, which makes networking and relation-ship-building easy.

The Gerber Z1 is a digital cutting solution suitable for single-ply apparel applications. Its vision systems and GERBERconnect remote diagnostics enable manufacturers to cut directly from custom-printed textile rolls by scanning the fabric and automatically generating cut files. In addition, it enables accurate identification of cut parts and composite plies by printing alphanumeric text and barcodes on various materials.

TW: How did the idea for The Flex Factory come about?

Dr. West: This idea has been a long time in the making. So many people at the Wilson College of Textiles have discussed the need for this incubator and research space for years. And now that we’re up and running, we’re excited to see what kinds of fantastic textile products and companies will come out of the Flex Factory!

The college has a strong track record of teaching students how to succeed in the industry. We recognize that starting and prototyp-ng textile businesses can be expensive due to the high cost of machinery and other startup expenses. The Flex Factory can serve as a valuable stepping-stone to encourage entrepreneurship in the textile industry and empower young entrepreneurs.

At the Flex Factory, we’re all about creating a supportive ecosystem for textile startups and entrepreneurs. Whether you’re a current student, alum, faculty, or staff member, or someone with an excellent idea for a sustainable, domestically produced textile product, we’re here to help you develop your business. We offer many resources to companies, like design and fabrication tools. Plus, we’ve got some strategic partnerships that help us further our goal of growing the textile industry region-ally and nationally.

Twine Solutions digital thread dyeing system digitally dyes raw and off-the-shelf white thread — from different manufacturers — for sewing, knitting and embroidery applications. The digitally dyed thread can be used for endless applications including apparel, activewear, shoes, accessories, home décor and vehicle upholstery.

TW: How did you become involved with the Flex Factory?

Dr. West: After spending seven years as a faculty member in Textile and Apparel Technology and Management teaching textile and apparel design, I became director of Zeis Textiles Extension in mid-2019. There definitely were better years to be held accountable for an operation that thrives on outside visitors and production.

We began working on bringing the Flex Factory concept to fruition. Still, we had to delay the development of that space during the early stages of the pandemic when we switched our focus to mask production and supporting the textile industry with training and workshops for personal protective equipment manufacturing and sourcing.

Everyone remembers 2020 as the year of the mask or the lack of masks. The university shut down for three months around spring break. So, we looked for innovative ways to make masks. We took three pieces of manufacturing equipment and quickly turned them into mask-making machines. First, we used our pleating machine to pleat the innovative washable nonwoven fabric made at the Nonwovens Institute right next door. Next, we utilized a Lectra cutter that could magically re-pleat the fabric using its vacuum system. And finally, we used a sonic welding machine to complete the construction. We even knitted the elastic for the ears.

We made masks for NC State campus police and all the facilities workers that keep the university safe and functioning.The experience showed us while we had a small space, we had right equipment for the endeavor and we could punch way beyond our weight. But, it also dawned on us that the university had equipment to be used for the greater good, and like many textile companies, we had pivoted. It made us realize in manufacturing textiles and apparel, American ingenuity was not lost, and there was so much talent in the college we just needed to focus on that talent after this event.

TW: How will students engage, and how will this prepare them for their careers?

Dr. West: This a strange one. Here is my personal view of this as I was in this predicament 40 years ago, and things have stayed the same in my opinion, or have even become worse. When some students walk into fashion or textile college as a freshman, they want to change the world— they have many ideas and little knowledge of how textiles work. So, over the next few years, we will teach them the reality of the industry and how to program and use this technical equipment. Still, when they graduate, they realize that starting their own business takes a lot of money and a lot of work to be an entrepreneur and take all the risks. So, we are here to help them move their ideas to reality now they know what they are doing.

The SWGN Series machines from Japan-based Shima Seiki are WholeGarment machines that can produce a wide range of fashion accessories including gloves, socks, hats and shoe uppers with no sewing or linking required. The machine at the Wilson College of Textiles also can produce technical textiles such as industrial materials, sports items, devices for medical applications and safety, as well as process conductive yarns. The machine’s versatility makes it perfect for the Flex Factory.

TW: How does industry play a part in the Flex Factory?

Dr. West: We need four things from the industry. Firstly, from the textile machine makers, we see this as a working showcase for cutting-edge equipment, especially equipment with a small footprint.These machines can be utilized for research projects by faculty, students, and others, but also are used in the real world. So, we want to make this space a showroom for the best equipment in the world. Agreements with new machine suppliers would enable the Wilson College of Textiles to have access to state-of-the-art technologies and expertise, and also help the machine supplier establish a strong foothold in the southeastern region of the United States. We already have some strategic partners in place, but welcome more!

Secondly, we need projects. Our faculty and students are at the cutting-edge of technological advancements, and we need to help to get their ideas and innovations into the marketplace.

Thirdly, we need funding to make this Phase II happen at the university, and some industry members have supported this plan. With the help of the North Carolina Textile Foundation, engagement, partnership, and philanthropy will be on show worldwide.

Finally, come and visit. We can talk all day long about the space, but seeing it first-hand with the machines running is the best way to understand the vision. There are plenty of showcase events happening in the future where we will do tours, but if you are in the neighborhood, let us know! The best product that comes out of the NC State Wilson College of Textiles is the students. They are amazing before they walk in the door to be taught by world-class faculty, making them even more amazing when they head out into the industry.

TW: Tell us what type of equipment is your first choice for this space?

Dr. West: We already have an abundance of equipment in our labs, especially on the research and testing side, and we have many industry-size machines that can spin yarn, knit, or weave. However, we still need prototype equipment and the equipment to finish the products thoroughly. We received a grant from the Department of Defense called Defense Manufacturing Community Support Program (DMCSP), which enabled us to purchase some equipment for the Prototype Lab. The DMCSP aims to invest long-term in critical skills, facilities, workforce development, research and development, and small business support to strengthen the national security innovation base.

TW: How will the Flex Factory evolve in the next five years? The next 10?

Dr. West: One-word — sustainability! Nearly every student walking into Wilson College of Textiles is concerned about this topic, but we must give them the tools to move forward. Long-term, we are developing new processes to address needs in circularity and automation. Our graduates drive the direction of the future textiles and apparel industry and will be responsible for future technology investments. The textile industry is the second highest polluter after the energy industry.

For the world to be sustainable, we must step up and do what we can to fix a problem many think is not attainable. I am seeing a renewed focus on more sustainable fibers such as hemp and kenaf here in North Carolina; and banana and pineapple fibers can be utilized as a secondary industry in Central America.

Recycling fabric post-industrial and post-consumer waste still has a long way to go, but the Wilson College of Textiles is forming key partnerships to share information. Our graduates drive the direction of the future textiles and apparel industry and will be responsible for future technology investments.

TW: Why do you do what you do? What motivates you?

Dr. West: Someone asked recently why I am so positive about this concept. My response was, what choice do I have? This is an opportunity to help everyone in this industry. We have talent all around us and outstanding companies work with the Wilson College of Textiles and ZTE daily.

Archimedes said,“Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.”The new lever is the Flex Factory. Develop new ideas with expert help.

March/April 2023

Chargeurs PCC Presents At Made In France Lainière Paris And ZeroWater

PARIS — March 29, 2023 — Chargeurs PCC, global manufacturer of interlining and inner apparel components, will present its brands at Made in France Première Vision, the Paris fair trading on savoir-faire français, that will be held March 29-30 at Rue Carreau du Temple, Paris. The company will showcase Lainière Paris and ZeroWater, the top offer in knitted interlining collections, made in France at the historical century-old factory Lanière de Picardie in Péronne.

LAINIERE PARIS

For more than a century Lanière Paris has been a key supplier to the French and Italian finest maisons de mode and is today the world leader in the knitted interlining products.

Lanière Paris interlinings combine lightness, fluidity, softness and silky touch with impalpable and invisible coating, improved grip, and bi-stretch property, to meet the finest luxury labels trend to increasingly lighter and transparent fabrics, in need of specialty interlining technology to be put together as a garment in resistance, stability and durability.

Committed to offering the highest level of quality and ethics, Lainière Paris is certified AFAQ ISO 9001 , OEKO-TEX and Reach Compliance. Thanks to the innovation at Lanière de Paicardie’s R&D, Chargeurs PCC works directly with brand partners to offer the most innovative and custom solutions.

ZEROWATER RAINBOW COLLECTION

ZeroWater Rainbow Collection of sustainable knitted interlinings is created with a proprietary waterless dyeing process and offers nearly invisible structure for use under the lightest and sheerest fabrics. This made in France collection of ultralight inner components is available in 15 colors, in addition to white, natural and off-white, all dyed through a proprietary waterless process that minimizes environmental impact.

The ZeroWater Rainbow Collection offers the lightest interlinings for couturiers and luxury brands that use the most luxurious and lightweight fabrics to create garments. Delicate and sheer items require silky, soft interlinings that provide flexible structure, durability and adhesion while remaining nearly invisible, so as not to detract from the color of the outer fabric. The collection is available in a wide range of sustainable colors to ensure designers’ creations drape perfectly and wear well, with no perceptible difference in the color of materials used to construct different layers of garments.

“We’ve leveraged our expertise to create a revolutionary dyeing process that uses absolutely no water as part of our commitment to sustainability through innovation,” said Gianluca Tanzi, CEO and Chairman of Chargeurs Textile. “The Zero-Water Rainbow Collection of sustainable interlinings offer the flexibility and improved adhesion the world’s top couturiers demand in a wide range of colors to match nearly any fabric.”

The traditional dyeing process is one of the most water-intensive and polluting parts of fashion production. According to the UN, the fashion industry produces 20% of all wastewater and textile dyeing is the second-largest source of water pollution globally. Most of this wastewater is returned untreated to the environment, where chemicals from dyes can harm human, animal and plant life.

To address this issue, Chargeurs PCC designed and engineered a proprietary waterless dyeing process that involves dyeing the adhesive material used in interlinings rather than the fabric itself.

Posted: March 29, 2023

Source: Chargeurs PCC

FUZE Biotech And Three Partner Brands Deliver Sustainable Performance Solutions At The Functional Fabric Fair

SALT LAKE CITY, Utah — March 29, 2023 — FUZE Biotech, supplier of chemical-free solutions in the fight against mold and bacteria, are proud to announce partner brands AFS Group, Grand Textile, and Yu Yuang Textile will also be exhibiting at this Year’s Functional Fabric Fair in Portland, Ore., April 4-5, 2023.

FUZE’s solutions to evaporation, bacteria, and mold eliminate the need for chemicals, carbon, and remediation, helping their partner brands achieve performance and sustainability goals more easily.

“FUZE Biotech is internationally recognized as a leader in developing safe, sustainable, and permanent applications to textiles that protect against odor causing bacteria and mold,” said Andrew Peterson, chief technology officer of FUZE Biotech. “No other partner has a textile solution with zero harmful chemicals, zero carbon footprint, zero toxicity, zero waste, and zero remediation. We have developed the ‘holy grail’ for those committed to achieving their carbon neutrality objectives.”

FUZE Biotech is a regular exhibitor at the Functional Fabric Fair and will be available to meet with global customers and production partners at their booth 910. Their information can also be found in their valued partners’ booths:

ASF Group – Booth 806 Grand Textile – Booth 1017 Yu Yuang Textile – Booth 917

Posted: March 29, 2023

Source: FUZE Biotech

Recycled Yarn – Uster Outlines The Challenges And Solutions

USTER, Switzerland — March 29, 2023 — Spinning yarn blends of virgin and recycled fibers is a much bigger challenge than any other commonly used blend. But the results can still be acceptable with comprehensive quality testing, know-how and experience — as well as the new Uster Statistics 2023 edition as a vital benchmarking tool.

The European Union has defined a strategy for sustainable and circular textile production, to make the sector greener and more competitive. Part of this 2030 Vision for Textiles calls for all textile products on the EU market to be durable, repairable and recyclable — and largely made of recycled fibers. Many leading retailers are also championing the use of recycled materials from 2030 onwards.

The use of mechanically recycled fibers in spinning has specific quality considerations: such fibers have a higher short fiber and nep content and may often be colored, particularly if post-consumer material is used. It’s also true that recycled yarns have limitations in terms of fineness. Officially, a yarn can only be branded recycled when spun with more than 20 percent recycled fibers. This is set by the Global Recycled Standard (GRS), a voluntary product specification for tracking and verifying the recycled content of materials in a final product.

Spinning recycled yarns

Blending virgin and recycled cotton together is well known as a challenge for spinners. The smartest spinners and world-class processes simply can’t overcome the fact that some important quality parameters will be adversely affected. It’s clear that the use of recycled cotton in a blend with new fiber will impact on both the overall yarn strength and its CV%. Even the most sophisticated spinning machinery won’t fix the problem.

Awareness of the risk of yarn quality deterioration with recycled fiber blends means that quality control is the only way to assure customer satisfaction. Even then, the task is far from simple. When spinning new materials, Uster strongly recommends taking both numeric test results and graphic evaluations into account, to eliminate the risk of problems in further processing.

Avoiding fabric defects

Spinners face major difficulties because of the high proportion of short fibers in recycled cotton (CO-R) and the fact that, when mixing with virgin cotton (CO), the fiber length distribution is sometimes suboptimal. This results, for example, in incorrect guidance of short fibers in the drafting system and potential draft errors. In tests, a Ne 20 rotor yarn of 75% CO and 25% CO-R was compared with a 100-percent cotton yarn. The values for evenness, imperfections and hairiness were measured and produced a CVm% of 22% in Uster Statistics, which might appear to indicate excellent quality for the recycled yarn if relying on numeric values alone. In fact, closer analysis with Uster Tester spectrograms showed a draft error at the draw frame. In this case, the problem was detected before causing an uneven structure in the subsequent fabric made from the yarn.

Common language for better communication

It is an unavoidable fact that blending virgin and recycled cotton will make some quality parameters worse. Using recycled fiber is often desirable, but it creates a new reality for the industry. To cope with the risks, better communication and a common understanding are needed throughout the textile value chain.

Uster’s common language of quality will be — once more — vital in improving communication throughout the textile industry. For 66 years, Uster Statistics have been the only globally-accepted quality benchmark and the foundation for industry-wide quality improvement. The new edition, to be launched at ITMA 2023, includes for the first time a section for recycled yarn.

The Uster Statistics 2023 edition features an extended range of fiber data, supporting sustainability goals. An ideal fiber mix — with or without recycled content — also ensures meeting quality requirements for least waste. Fiber graphs will be newly available for every process step.

The new reality

Spinners need to find a way to transform their mills to a more sustainable future. The challenge of spinning recycled yarns must be acknowledged, and the big goal here is to succeed with it. Spinners already have the tools they need, allowing them to benefit from both laboratory instruments and quality monitoring systems to optimize quality and productivity. Their experience, combined with Uster knowledge and latest technology in quality control and analysis systems, are a promising basis for a sustainable future for the textile industry.

The new reality of the need for closer communication and cooperation will include all players from fiber to fabric. It’s an essential debate for everyone — and Uster is ready to take the lead.

Posted: March 29, 2023

Source: Uster Technologies AG

1...501502503...2,624Page 502 of 2,624

Sponsors

Breaking News

Load more

Digital Issue

2026 Quarterly Issue Number I

View Latest Digital Issue

FEATURED ARTICLES

© Copyright 2017 Textile Industries Media Group, LLC.