Trutzschler Sells Equipment To Fruit Of The LoomFruit of the Loom, Bowling Green, Ky., is
furnishing several plants with machinery from Germany-based Trutzschler GmbHandCo. KG. The companys
Leesburg, Ala., plant has purchased a cotton cleaning system comprising five Blendomat BDT and
eight Cleanomat CXL machines and 48 DK 903 cards. Fruit of the Looms Williamston, N.C., facility is
installing a spinning preparation plant comprising seven Blendomat BDT and 10 Cleanomat CXL
machines. In addition, Trutzschler is supplying the company with several blending installations for
the production of cotton/polyester blends, as well as a total of 60 DK 903 cards equipped with its
Integrated Draw Frame.Canada-based Gildan Activewear Inc. has installed a completely new
Trutzschler spinning preparation plant and 29 DK 903 cards at its facility in Longsault, Ontario.
June 2003
Trutzschler Sells Equipment To Fruit Of The Loom
Machines Italia Knitting
Machines Italia: KnittingWorld-class designer products and dazzling fashion trends aside,
Italy also boasts a rich heritage of art, commerce and technology. Knitting companies in particular
are using the Italian reputation for style and quality to market technologically advanced
machinery.Innovation In TechnologyEstablished in 1955, Protti Fashiontronix S.p.A. has a reputation
for building custom machines with special devices or modifications required by customers. Prottis
process of needle-by-needle electronic selection, patented in 1969, helped earn this reputation.
Machine tooling its own parts, Protti brings new developments into its on-site showroom, where its
representatives can collaborate with customers to fine-tune advancements. Antonella Salomone,
marketing manager, said China is a strong market for Protti. Growing markets include Poland,
Hungary, Romania, the Baltic countries, Portugal and Spain. Circular-knitting machines from 4 to 18
gauge are selling well in Turkey.At ITMA 2003, Protti will show its new PV222 three-head machine,
the flat-bed PV4i for knitting integralwear, and the IKS automatic programming system.The PV222 is
characterized by three needle-bed sectors 110-centimeters (cm) wide and double system cam boxes. An
innovative take-down, high productivity and quality production are main features. According to
Protti, the overall production time to produce a 12-gauge, large-sized, long-sleeved V-neck mens
sweater is 44 minutes.The special take-down device, used to create the setup, streamlines the
process of programming the machine for new patterns, and enhances the ability to produce complex
knitted wear or trimmings such as shoulder straps, small pockets, pointed ends and fine chains. The
device also facilitates knitting fabrics with special yarns, an area of special interest to Protti.
The PV4i series, already available in the market in 10 and 12 gauges, is now offered in a 5-gauge
version. This model, as with others in the PV4i series, has the advantage of a very long needle bed
(190 cm). The machines incorporate the possibility of working with joined or separated carriages
and double-stitch cams, stitch-pusher and stitch-presser system, and its unique take-down device.
The need for more samples with shorter turnaround times demands CAD systems and machines that are
easy to use and capable of executing fast changes.Tomorrow’s Seamless VisionVersatility of a broad
market offering is exemplified at Lonati S.p.A. When the Lonati family expanded its holdings in
1988, it acquired a series of respected companies such as Santoni, Mec-Mor, Vignoni, Rimach, Exacta
and MCM Cylinders. A joint venture with Takatori Finishing completed the package. The focus of the
group is evolving. On average, every 10 days a member of the group presents its products at
technical shows and international sportswear shows, among other events.Through the Lonati
FashionandDesign Institute, Santoni demonstrates its commitment to academic training through
associations with universities such as the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York City, and the
London College of Fashion, London.Those who havent planned research, face reaction, said Valentina
Gentilini, marketing, Santoni. New product development can be an alternative strategy for a market
in crisis. Describing co-marketing strategies, Gentilini noted the proactive involvement of
companies such as Nike and Adidas. Sara Lee also is a Santoni customer that has been a major player
in the growth of seamless technology. With Speizman Industries Inc. in Charlotte as its US agent,
Santoni offers standard circular-knitting machines and seamless technology. Besides making its own
components, Santoni manufactures cylinders for others. Promotion of the SM8 single-jersey, the SM9
double-jersey and the SM4 C single-jersey machines for fully fashioned garments remains its focus.
Santoni sees its strength in specialization, not in commodity machines.Using the Santoni 3-D
Envision, designers can create and simulate construction, texture, garment structure and fit.
Products displayed in the showroom and training center reflect the dynamic creativity of the
technology in color, jacquard patterning, surface dimensionality, garment fit and innovative
styling. Engineered customization can be realized by integrating other technologies, such as a body
scanner and performance yarns.
The BS seamless machine from Orizio Paolo was on display at the International Hosiery
Exhibition in Charlotte earlier this year.Flexibility And Reliability In The Global
MarketFlexibility with a robust, reliable machine is the forte of Orizio Paolo S.p.A. Paolo
Fumagalli, sales manager for the United States and China, said the most important markets for
Orizio currently are China, Poland and Turkey. Steven Foster, customer care manager, summarized
Orizios range of circular machines as single- and double-jersey, mechanical and electronic. Orizios
products include the following innovations:Model JS2 a terry machine offering single-knit
production of loops on both sides in 16 and 18 gauges with 44 feeds; MJT a new transfer machine
with 54 feeds, including 18 for transfer and 36 for jacquard;J4CV a high-speed, single knitting
head with cams suitable for high speeds (1.7 meters per second), along with an extended frame
available for rolls up to 48 inches;yarn/fabric measuring program with standards preprogrammed into
Orizio digital software; new pattern selection system for mini-jacquard models; anduse of
perforated cards a fully or semiautomatic punch card process that replaces existing cartridges with
newly designed selector units.The Oricontrol System provides machine information. Designed for
global use, the system shows messages graphically, which minimizes operator interpretation of a
specific language. Within its range of specialty machines, Orizio also offers a fully fashioned
knitting machine to compete in the seamless garments market. The BS seamless is available in 11-,
13-, 15- and 17-inch diameters in gauges from 24 to 28 with eight feeders. This electronic
single-jersey machine uses the Archimedes electronic controller to produce shaped garments with
different stitch structures in multicolored patterns.Narrow Fabrics: Continuous
InnovationFlexibility, a broad product line and specialization characterize Comez S.p.A. With few
competitors producing crochet machines, Comez continues to advance the technology in mechanical and
electronic models. Comez crochet machines and needle looms produce narrow fabrics for
passementerie, rigid and elastic laces and bands, technical textiles, medical textiles and
furnishings fabrics. The export market for Comez is strong in China, and growing in Turkey. From
shoe tops to waist bands, crochet can be cost-effective and efficient. Moreover, for fancy trims,
braids and fringes, crochet can create handmade looks. Customers can evaluate new products in the
Comez research and development technical area. Sergio Denegri, director, Comez North America,
Hickory, N.C., utilizes this service for collaboration with customers on new product solutions.At
ITMA 2003, Comez will show a double-needle-bed machine capable of making tubular fabrics for
medical textiles. It also will release a new version of its ComezDraw 2 software. CAD software for
all Comez machines assists in reducing sample turnaround time, providing simulations and archiving
of patterns.
Nancy Powell (left) and H.C. Luigi Omodeo Zorini, president, ComezFor outerwear, Comez also
manufactures the electronic Testronic EL in 10 gauge, 100-cm width, a highly productive machine
capable of making fabrics with both stability and/or controlled elasticity.The integration of
advanced technology into high-end designer and mass-market applications has enabled the Italian
fashion system to remain a leader in the world for design and quality.
June 2003
Rieter Installs 1 111th UNIlap Invests In New SpinCenter
Rieter Installs 1,111th UNIlap,Invests In New SpinCenterSwitzerland-based Rieter Textile Systems
recently celebrated the installation of the 1,111th UNIlap since the combing preparation machinery
was introduced in the late 1980s. A UNIlap E 32, the third generation of the UNIlap line, was
handed over to J.K. Spinning Mills Ltd., Bangladesh, during a ceremony attended by representatives
of both companies.
Rieter reports the drawframe/ UNIlap system enables higher feeds and speeds than earlier
sliver lap/ribbon lap systems, and meets the requirements for medium-count yarn and for
finest-quality yarn. The UNIlap E 32 achieves production rates of up to 360 kilograms (kg) per
hour, lap weights up to 25 kg, batt weights up to 80 grams per meter and a low count variation over
the lap length. In 2002, Rieter delivered several dozen combing systems to India and Bangladesh.In
other news, Rieter announced it has invested 3 million Swiss francs ($2.3 million) to renovate
buildings and install Luwa air conditioning systems for a new SpinCenter at its headquarters in
Switzerland. The company states the new facility provides improved customer support and consulting
expertise.
June 2003
Air Purification System Lowers Emissions
Bruckner Trockentechnik GmbHandCo. KG, Germany, recently sold a heat recovery and exhaust air
purification system to RoeckerandKohler Wirkstoffe, Germany.The exhaust air treatment system,
designed to comply with German emissions laws, combines a small heat recovery system with a
two-stage electrostatic precipitator. Hot air exhausted from the heat-setting process heats up
fresh air, which then is led back to the tenter. The exhaust air then is further cooled, and its
thermal energy is used to heat water for other processes.In both stages, the system condenses,
separates and removes air pollutants, thus reducing emissions.
June 2003
Machines Italia Weaving
.
Machines Italia: WeavingThe visit to Italy-based weaving machine and woven fabric
manufacturers revealed what the industry is doing to maintain a top position in a world with more
intense competition than at any other time in history. Weaving PreparationA small company having
only 50 employees, Rostoni Macchine S.p.A. produces a range of direct and indirect warpers and
sizing machines loaded with electronics and controls. Additionally, the company produces trucks for
cloth roll doffing, multicloth roll-handling systems with capacity of up to 40 rolls, and steel
constructions for warp beam storage. According to Rostoni, reasons behind its success are more than
130 years of experience, and its partnerships with motor builders, rubber coating manufacturers,
software developers, and sensor and touch-screen control panel builders.Rostoni provides its
customers the option of including hot-air (WSA model) or radio-frequency (WSS model) dryers with
sizing machines as pre-dryers. Its sizing machine speed range is 200 to 650 meters per minute
(m/min), and sizing width is 1,800 mm.
Rostoni manufactures a range of warping and sizingequipment, as well as trucks and systems
for roll handling.Established in 1948, Ramallumin S.r.l. is a small, private company with 50
employees. The companys standard manufacturing program of warp preparation equipment includes
indirect and direct warpers, warping creels for spun and filament yarns, sizing machines, and
indigo warp-dyeing and -sizing machines for denim fabrics. The company manufactures cylinder dryers
for sizing machines and the nonwovens industry. It also provides its customers the option of
including air or infrared (IR) dryers with sizing machines as pre-dryers. The companys expertise in
manufacturing cylinder dryers is extended to producing water-cooled cylinders and cooling towers
for the textile industry, and cylinder dryers and coolers for other industries such as rubber and
tire.Ramallumins machines are equipped with microprocessor-based inverters, motor controls and PLC
logic made by Siemens. Optional PC-based systems are available for machine monitoring and control.
Currently, most of its machines are sold in Italy. Export markets include the Middle East and
China.Weaving MachinesAbout two years ago, Somet and Vamatex merged into one company under the name
Promatech. Before the end of 2002, Promatechs parent, the Itema Group, acquired Switzerland-based
Sulzer Textil (renamed Sultex Ltd.). The merger and the acquisition situated the company in a
unique position of producing the broadest range of weaving machines available today, including the
only commercially available multiphase weaving machine the M8300.Recently, Promatech built a large
multipurpose demonstration center in the town of Colzate. The center comprises three areas: a
meeting room with multimedia presentation equipment;a trial room for customers to test weaving
machines before making investment decisions; and a showroom for demonstrating the many examples of
Vamatex and Somet machine lines weaving a broad range of fabrics.Promatech is determined to improve
its machines through continuous innovations such as further automation, conversion from mechanical
to electronic controls, reduction of machine parts and low maintenance. Examples of its new
innovations are automatic control of pile height for terry machines, automatic timing of the weft
cutter, and the new HI-DRIVE electronically controlled machine drive system.
Promatech’s demonstration center features a showroom and a trial weaving room for customers
to test machines before making a purchase.The HI-DRIVE motor is optional for the Vamatex Leonardo
and Somet Alpha weaving machines. With the HI-DRIVE option, machine speed can be controlled and
programmed by the microprocessor, which can produce fabrics with variable pick density to obtain
desired effects, run each filling yarn at suitable speed, and may prevent start/stop marks
resulting from high-speed starts.Promatech plans to show six of its Somet and Vamatex machines at
its main booth at ITMA 2003. Additional machines will be shown at jacquard suppliers
booths.PanterPanter S.r.l. is a new, small company with a total of 60 employees. The company
produces rapier weaving machines in a range of widths. Panter believes its small size is not a
disadvantage because overhead is minimized and savings are passed on to customers. It exports its
machines globally to China, India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Taiwan and Turkey.At ITMA 1999,
Panter demonstrated on one of its machines a quick change from negative rapier to positive rapier
(or vice versa) in 20 minutes. It still provides this option to enable handling of a broad range of
filling yarn types.A direct-drive motor, which drives the machine without belt/pulleys or clutch,
is becoming standard on all Panter weaving machines. The company developed a Pocket PC that allows
its customers to monitor machine status, create/modify weave designs, transfer stored designs in
the Pocket PC to the machine (or vice versa), and store machine settings.The company plans to show
six of its machines at ITMA 2003. Four machines will be shown producing jacquard fabrics, and the
other two will be equipped with electronic dobby shedding motions. Panter also will reveal a new
drive system for its rapier machine and is expected to announce a new business venture.Menswear
Fabric ProducerFamily-owned Fratelli Tallia di Delfino S.p.A. is 100 years old. It specializes in
producing finished menswear fabrics (worsted, woolen, silk and cashmere), starting from tops. The
company owns 60 rapier weaving machines equipped with dobby shedding motion with up to six filling
feeders. At any given time, 30 percent of its machines are used for developing new fabrics. Three
semiautomatic Suzuki sample warpers are currently used to prepare warps for such a heavy load of
development. Two Suzuki warpers are used for production to supply 70 percent of the weaving
machines. The company also produces a wide range of yarns for its fabrics. It develops its own
colors by dyeing tops and yarn packages to provide a broad range of colors. Some fabrics are dyed
in an open beck. Recently, the company acquired new Sulzer G6300 weaving machines and Suzuki
warpers. The high level of automation in the plant is obvious. Examples include a fully automated
warehouse, spinning frames with automatic doffing, and semiautomatic warping machines. The company
implemented CAD systems to develop fabric design and simulation. Electronic pattern change, quick
inventory tracking, short runs, significant reduction in downtime, and production of intricate
fabric designs are possible using its line of machinery.SoftwareEstablished in 1981, Incas S.p.A.
supplies automation equipment and computerized production and quality monitoring systems to the
textile and other industries. Today, the company employs 150 people and has branches in many
countries including Italy, Spain, Mexico and Brazil. The company offers a variety of software and
hardware products including: raw material and finished goods warehouse management systems with
wireless option; production monitoring and control systems for spinning, warping, sizing, weaving,
finishing and other textile processes; and on- and off-loom fabric inspection and quality-assurance
systems. Its weaving production monitoring system provides weavers with numerous functions such as
real-time display of weaving room production and stop/breaks analysis, programming of stop causes,
statistical analysis, production planning, and interface with dobby CAD system.At ITMA 2003, the
company will introduce a new system to monitor weaving machines using wireless technology. The
system has the capability of interfacing weaving machines with the Internet, so weaving machines
and weaving room data may be accessed from anywhere in the world.
June 2003
Fiber Focus
Fiber Focus
Part 1 of a two-part feature focusing on the apparel fiber industry including new fibers and
fabrics, style forecasts, and color trends. Look for Part 2 in the August issue of Textile
World.Throughout the supply chain, companies are creating novelty products that do more, aiming
them at niche markets, and getting them to the consumer faster. Today, the focus is on specialty
products designed for specific end-uses and on creative ways to market these products. New
marketing strategies to boost sales are targeted to direct and indirect customers.New Fiber
Variants At NylstarNylstar, Italy, has 11 production facilities around the world, and is Europes
largest nylon producer. Its US headquarters are located in Greensboro, N.C. A few years ago, its
new $50 million facility came on-line in Martinsville, Va. Equipped with the most advanced
technology, including robots, the new plant has an annual capacity to produce 30 to 50 million
pounds of nylon. Meryl®, its branded nylon, has about 10 percent of the North American market
share.This month, Nylstar is introducing Meryl Mattesse, a collection of super microdenier nylons.
Dina Dunn, vice president, marketing, describes Mattesse as ultra-fine, soft and sumptuous with a
dull matte appearance for a natural look. Target markets for this new fiber are intimate apparel,
activewear and ready-to-wear. It is beginning to sell in Europe for ready-to-wear, said Dunn. In
this country, we see it starting in intimates and activewear.MillikenandCompany, Spartanburg, is
developing a line of light topweight and fine bottomweight woven fabrics using Mattesse. Knits will
be available from Ge-Ray Fabrics Inc. Texollini Inc. and Alexander Fabrics also are working with
the fiber. Many of the new fabrics are blended with spandex.Meryl Skinlife, a bacteriostatic fiber,
was recently launched in the United States. A Caribbean Basin Initiative- and North American Free
Trade Agreement-compliant version of the fiber will be introduced in late July. The major
difference between Skinlife and other antibacterials is that Skinlife inhibits growth of bacteria
in fabrics, while allowing the skin to maintain a normal bacteria balance.Dunn said Skinlife is
infused into the yarns polymer matrix, so it is permanent and wont wash out. Unlike surface
post-treatments, there is no danger of migration of chemicals from the fabric to the skin or a
reduction in performance over time, she said.The target markets for Meryl Skinlife are circular
knits and seamless garments. And it is ideal for the military in the field, Dunn added. When you
cant wash your socks for days, with no bacteria growth there is no odor. Sleeping bags are another
area she mentioned. Ge-Ray Fabrics, Summit Knitting Mills Inc. and MillikenandCompany are
developing fabrics featuring Skinlife. Nilit’s New Hosiery FiberIsrael-based Nilit Ltd.,
manufacturer of nylon 6,6 Sensil®, recently introduced Sensil EverSheer, a yarn specially
engineered for covering and protecting spandex. Designed for the sheer hosiery market, it is used
to create pantyhose that hug the leg and provide a smooth, elegant look and touch.Molly Kremidas,
merchandising manager, Nilit America Corp., Greensboro, said, During production, the interaction of
Sensil EverSheer and spandex greatly reduces picks and snags, significantly decreasing waste and
increasing productivity. For the woman wearing hosiery products made with this new nylon fiber,
this translates into highly desired durability, uniformity, sheerness and a luxurious feel on the
leg. For the manufacturer, it means less waste during the production process and a substantial
increase in profitability.Another recent product introduction is Sensil Cupelle, a textured yarn
that can achieve multicolor effects in one dye bath. It is actually a combination of two newly
designed polymers, Sensil Colorwise and Sensil Pastelle. Each of the two nylon 6,6 yarns has been
modified in a way that causes it to receive color differently, said Kremidas. Sensil Colorwise yarn
accepts regular acidic colorants and rejects the special cationic colorant. Sensil Pastelle acts
exactly the opposite way. When these are knitted together in any design, the result is a
combination of two distinct and contrasting colors. A variety of patterns can be achieved, be they
stripes, inscriptions, segments, jacquards or tonal effects. Adding another yarn to knitted fabrics
allows for more than two colors in the same dyeing process, reaching a greater variety of design.
Nilit’s Sensil® Cupelle yarn is targeted for seamless apparel and activewear markets, among
others.New Ways To Stretch With RadiciSpandexFollowing its acquisition in March 2001 by vertically
integrated man-made fiber producer Radici Group, Italy, RadiciSpandex Corp., Fall River, Mass., has
dropped its brand names for elastane fibers. Trusting in the global integrity of Radici, customers
have confidence working with an unbranded supplier. RadiciSpandex is focused on being the primary
supplier to Western Hemisphere markets, said William Girrier, vice president, sales and
marketing.We continue to build on the momentum of our most recent product launches, which were
S-72, a polyether-based elastane that provides enhanced power and recovery, and S-45, a
heat-resistant elastane that allows converters to produce deep, rich colors in a polyester/spandex
blend without streaking or spotting.S-72 and S-45 were introduced in 2002. Geared to the activewear
market, S-45 is an ideal product for polyester warp knits and circular knits. Available in a full
range of apparel fashion deniers, it is engineered to retain its elastic properties after dyeing at
temperatures of up to 265°F.RadiciSpandex developed S-72 for the full spectrum of narrow fabrics,
including waistbands, lace and piquabrics, bra straps and fitted bed sheets. It is a high-tenacity
fiber that offers superb dye receptivity and superior whiteness retention. It has a 600-percent
breaking elongation and excellent resistance to acid and caustic solutions. It is available in
full-dull and clear lusters.Other popular spandex fibers are S-17B and S-85, both for high-tech
athleticwear and stretch woven fabrics. S-17B was developed especially for swimwear. It is
chlorine-resistant; and offers protection from environmental and chemical sources, protection
against yellowing, and protection from breakdown caused by suntan oil and perspiration
exposure.Recently, RadiciSpandex sponsored the fifth edition of the High School of Fashion
lndustries (HSFI) Stretch to the Future design scholarship competition. Menswear designer John
Varvatos led the judging panel of fashion industry professionals that included fashion and textile
journalists, fabric company executives and HSFI faculty members. Seven scholarship prizes totaling
$4,000 were awarded.
Dropping the brand-names of its spandex products, RadiciSpandex continues to develop spandex
yarns for a variety of products and end-uses.A New Business, Fiber For Dow ChemicalLate last year,
The Dow Chemical Co., Midland, Mich., announced the creation of Dow Fiber Solutions, a new business
within its global Polyolefins and Elastomers portfolio. Its inaugural product was DOW XLA, a
comfort stretch fiber
(See Quality Fabric Of The Month, TW, December 2002). The Federal Trade Commission has
awarded this fiber a new generic name, lastol.As the newest player in the stretch fiber industry,
everyone is watching us very closely to see what direction we will take, said Juan-Carlos Cuadrado,
global business director for Dow Fiber Solutions. We are not interested in being all things to all
people. We are very focused on the markets where we bring differentiated solutions throughout the
value chain.He pointed to four apparel target markets. When it comes to adding stretch to cotton
shirts and blouses, garment-washed denim, casual shirts, bottomweights and career- wear and
uniforms, there is no other fiber that can offer the processing efficiencies and cotton feel and
easy care that consumers demand like Dow XLA.Danville, Va.-based Dan River Inc. has introduced a
new chambray of cotton/70-denier XLA fiber. It is woven using core-spun yarns by R.L. Stowe Mills
Inc., Belmont, N.C. Dow is working with spinners, mills and knitters in the Americas, Europe and
Asia.High Performance From WellmanWellman Inc., Charlotte, has been developing a variety of new
products. Recent fiber variants, all copolymers of polyester, are Sensura®, Microdenier Sensura,
ComFortrel XP and Spunnaire®. These high-tech fibers provide fabrics with a soft hand, dimensional
stability, moisture transportability, ease of dyeing and colorfastness. Sensura is going into
casual sportswear, performancewear and outerwear. Microdenier Sensura is a 0.97-denier-per-filament
product with a 25-percent higher tenacity than Sensura. It was designed to enable finer yarn counts
and to blend with premium cottons. ComFortrel XP gives fabrics a soft, natural hand; has excellent
shape retention; and resists pilling, wrinkling, stretching and shrinking. Spunnaire is an
optically white fiber.One new application for these high-performance fibers is socks. The softness,
moisture management ability, fast-drying properties, shape retention and abrasion resistance are
cited as reasons for their success in this market. Moretz Sports Inc. introduced a collection for
delivery in Spring 2003. Holofiber, a responsive textile, is a new product from Wellman that works
with the bodys own energy system to increase oxygen levels, build strength and accelerate muscle
recovery in the human body. It was recently examined in a clinical study conducted by Lawrence A.
Lavery, M.D., associate professor in the department of orthopedic surgery and rehabilitation at
Loyola University Medical Center and Hines Veterans Administration Hospital, Chicago. Olympic
medalist Michellie Jones has been wearing Holofiber products for more than a year. She said, As a
professional athlete, you want everything you can possibly find to help get the best performance
possible. Thats one of the things I like about Holofiber the fact that it helps with recovery and
circulation.Textile Research At Cotton IncorporatedAt Cotton Incorporated, Cary, N.C., product
development starts in the field and continues through the supply chain to the final product. Two
very recent achievements involve yarn and fabric finishing. An innovative yarn development from
Cotton Incorporateds Fiber Processing Research Division has been adopted by Dan River. It allows
the production of random slubs using existing equipment without special hardware requirements. For
Dan River, a 7-ounce slub adds another dimension to what was a basic twill weave. In development,
techniques were used that led to a higher spinning efficiency.The textile research and
implementation department at Cotton Incorporated has developed a durable finish for bottomweight
fabrics that reduces abrasion and protects denim color. The new durashield has been adopted by
Wrangler® for its new Riggs Workwear by Wrangler line. Mount Vernon Mills Inc., Greenville, fabric
supplier to Wrangler for this project, implemented the finish at the plant level.The durashield
fabric is a 14.75-ounce 3/1 right-hand twill. Attributes of the finish are: improved lubrication
that helps delocalize fabric stress; a protective coating from oxidation, ultraviolet and
hydrolytic damage; permanent softness; better surface appearance; and improved color
retention.Cotton Incorporateds ongoing fabric development efforts to create new and/or improved
fabrics continue to service the textile and manufacturing industries. Our ongoing research produces
innovations in yarns, design and finishing. This is a perfect example of working with our industry
to constantly improve the quality of cotton fabrics while offering the consumer more fashion
choices, said Mike Tyndall, senior director, Americans mill marketing, global product marketing.FR
From KoSaAt KoSa, Houston, the newest development is Avora®Plus, a flame-retardant (FR) fiber with
increased performance. Suzette McHugh, Avora FR market manager, said AvoraPlus, introduced in late
2002, was originally developed to sell in Europe, where FR standards are more stringent. It is
selling to global contract markets for upholstery and drapery fabrics. Fabrics containing AvoraPlus
have good dimensional stability, are wrinkle- and mildew-resistant, and are suitable for commercial
laundering.
June 2003
Ahead Of The Curve
The dynamics of innovation in today’s textile business environment have new dimensions and
dramatic urgency. The
Textile World
2003 Innovation Award winner is focused on meeting challenges beyond product and process
invention, though it has no short supply of either. Rather, it is on the development of the company
as a whole that sets it apart from traditional competitors and bolsters it from becoming obsolete
as supply chains continue to shorten.
What would you say to the simple strategy of delivering branded consumer products that meet
or exceed retailers’ demands for variety, exclusivity and price, and creating value and ease of
consumer access through bundling and collections of themed products – all while striking a
balance between domestic manufacturing and foreign sourcing? Mix in 116 years of company and family
history, impressive financial and business savvy, and pretty soon you have a portrait of the
Textile World
2003 Innovation Award honoree – Springs Industries Inc.
Embracing sourcing as part of a strategy to meet consumer demands has raised many an
eyebrow – and a little blood pressure as well – but Springs is not shy about this aspect
of its business. Sourcing has made a difference. Throughout its domestic manufacturing operations,
there is the prevailing sense that product coming out of each plant is made there because it makes
sense to make it there. Every plant has crushed traditional production cycle times, and embraced
shorter runs and multiple pattern changes. There is an eagerness to hone the value further, all the
while focusing on products that are advantageous to manufacture domestically.
The evolution of Springs is highlighted by the company’s ability to remain consistently ahead
of the curve. It shepherds a compelling brand strategy that takes the consumer beyond individual
products. It serves retailers as customers in multiple categories, from mass merchandiser to
specialty. The company positions its manufacturing base to link speed-to-market initiatives with
consumer-friendly style and design. Investment, in both capital equipment and acquisitions,
enhances its role and value in the supply chain it serves. Real initiatives enhance logistics,
giving the company a competitive advantage.
TW
congratulates Springs for making innovation key to its success in product, process,
marketing and logistics.
June 2003
SML Reports 2002 Best Sales Year Ever
Austria-based Starlinger
Maschinengesellschaft Lenzing (SML) mbH reported 2002 was a banner year for sales of its extrusion
lines for filament and its coextrusion lines for film, sheet and laminates. The company, founded in
1995, experienced its best year ever, with sales up 17 percent — to 47 million euros — over 2001
sales, which totaled 40 million euros.
SML’s coextrusion cast film line with integrated MDO unit and in-line lamination is used to
produce textile backsheet for the hygiene industry.
Based on contracts signed to date
this year and on its own internal forecasts, SML expects to realize continued sales increases in
2003 despite rigorous competition in international markets, according to Bruno Haider, managing
partner. The company exports its products to more than 80 countries.
SML recently sold a coextrusion cast film line with in-line MDO unit to a Czech
Republic-based customer in the hygiene industry. The line is the 12th SML line sold into that
sector for production of breathable film. The company also has received an order for a high-speed
extrusion coating line.
May 2003
ITT Technologies Receives ANSI-RAB NAP Accreditation
ITT Technologies Inc. (IT3),
Greenville, a wholly owned subsidiary of the Charlottesville, Va.-based Institute of Textile
Technology, has received accreditation through the Registrars Accreditation Board and American
National Standards Institute National Accreditation Program (ANSI-RAB NAP) to offer ISO 14001
Environmental Management Systems certification. IT3 offers services to assist manufacturers in
improving their competitive position and profitability. The agency states it also will soon be
accredited to offer ISO 9001 Quality Management Systems certification.
May 2003
Cutting Compliance Costs
Supply Chain Management
TW Special ReportCutting Compliance Costs
NextLinx Trade Collaborator helps cut global supply chain costs.The hidden costs of
sourcing, in both procurement and logistics, as well as the unintended impact of noncompliance with
rules of origin, create a risk environment for sourcing decision makers. Clear information on every
aspect of trade transactions minimizes that risk.Many retailers currently underestimate the amount
of sourcing costs of a particular item that is imported from a foreign country, said Darren
Maynard, COO, NextLinx Corp., Rockville, Md. For example, under the Caribbean Basin Trade
Partnership Act (CBTPA), a duty of 32.2 percent is added on top of the cost of a mens polyester
T-shirt imported from the Dominican Republic if the retailer does not qualify for the countrys
rules of origin. In other words, on T-shirts the retailer could pay significant additional money if
[its] shipping documents are not accurate.However, with direct access to the changing regulations
and complex rules of origin, retailers can gain substantial cost savings and expand their global
reach without the risk.VF Corp. Selects NextLinx SolutionVF Corp. (VF), Greensboro, N.C.,
purportedly the worlds largest apparel company, with brands such as Lee®, Wrangler®, Riders®,
Vanity Fair® and The North Face®, recently selected NextLinxs Trade Collaborator solution to
provide sustainable bottom-line savings by reducing sourcing and global supply chain costs,
minimizing trade compliance risks and allowing for more informed decision making.
Apparel manufacturer VF Corp. selected NextLinx Corp.s Trade Collaborator solution to help
the company deal with global trading issues. VFs clothing, such as the Lee® mock turtleneck
(right), is also sold under many other well-recognized brands.NextLinx Trade Collaborator, an
integrated suite of Trade Import, Trade Export and Trade Agreements solutions for global trade,
will be used by VF to collaborate with trading partners, monitor compliance-related sourcing costs,
prepare for preferential duty rates on imports and exports, and optimize its global trade
fulfillment process.We take pride in bringing to market superior products and rely on our
operational excellence and the best technology to quickly respond to our consumers needs around the
world, said Ellen Martin, vice president of supply chain systems, VF. NextLinxs Trade Collaborator
provides us the opportunity to utilize critical and timely global trade information and a
collaborative solution necessary to manage our trade fulfillment process effectively and
efficiently.According to NextLinx, using the Trade Collaborator suite to streamline the flow of all
import and export transactions into one single application can lead to a reduction in VFs inventory
carrying costs, compliance risk and workflow per entry. The Trade Export solution will integrate
with VFs existing applications to screen for restricted parties, determine licenses, create
documentation and submit Shippers Export Declarations (SEDs) to US Customs. Trade Agreements
solution will give VF access to the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), CBTPA and North
American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) rules of origin, enabling VF to plan for preferential duty
rates.NextLinx Trade Collaborator is powered by Global Knowledge, one of the industrys most
comprehensive databases of global trade content and international business rules.Its software and
Web services solutions combine global trade business rules and country-specific trade data,
consisting of denied party lists, landed cost components, import and export controls, and customs
duties and documentation, to help companies reduce the risks and costs associated with importing
and exporting goods across international borders.As a truly global organization, VF understands the
economic challenges that occur with manufacturing in our changing global climate. [Its] selection
of NextLinx validates our commitment to providing superior technology solutions and comprehensive
trade content and underscores the benefits of implementing a global trade solution, said Rajiv
Uppal, founder, president and CEO of NextLinx. Furthermore, VF has recognized the value and
importance of utilizing trade agreement programs. We believe that the future of successful
global business relies on participation in these preferential programs, thus we have expanded our
product functionality and look forward to extending this benefit to all of our customers.More Than
TextilesNextLinxs customers include Boeing, Federal Express (FedEx), Cendian Corp., Sothebys, Cisco
Systems, 3Com, Fairchild Semiconductor, Rockwell Automation and Panasonic.In April 2002, the
WorldWide Retail Exchange (WWRE®), a business-to-business exchange for retailers and suppliers,
announced the launch of its WorldWide Trade Logistics (WTL) suite and strategic alliance with
NextLinx. The WTL suite which addresses trade compliance, logistics cost estimation and analysis is
designed to streamline and automate global supply chain trade logistics operations in one
centralized location.
NextLinx provides information such as import/export rule and regulations data, compiled by a
team of content experts.Logistics, import/export complications and complex legal requirements can
cause companies significant time delays and financial strain. Adoption of the WTL solution will
enable WWRE members to avoid these basic impediments and significantly cut costs, said Jim Schwab,
WTL product director, WWRE. Importantly, members who take full advantage of these solutions can
market their supply chain efficiencies as competitive advantages. NextLinx and WWRE formed the
alliance to take the Global Trade Compliance and Landed Cost Calculator solutions to market by
providing both the application and the global content needed to facilitate global trade compliance
and landed cost calculations. The solutions are powered by NextLinxs Trade Services application and
content from Global Knowledge, which contains 97 chapters of the Harmonized Tariff Schedule for
shipping any product to more than 110 countries covering more than 99 percent of world
trade.Through the use of WWRE solution offerings, members have collectively saved approximately
$408 million on transaction volumes of more than $2.7 billion. Savings per member currently average
$4.5 million, according to the exchange. WWRE continues to expand its solution offerings, add
functionality to existing solutions and further strengthen its value to members.FedEx Trade
NetworksFedExs use of NextLinx solutions for screening and landed cost has led NextLinx to state
that by mid-2004, it will support the largest exporter in the United States in terms of shipment
volumes and value.The mission of FedEx Trade Networks (FTN) is to provide automated Web-based
solutions and tools that help customers navigate through the complex maze of global customs and
regulatory schemes, said G. Edmond Clark, president and CEO, FTN. Businesses are increasingly
looking for new ways to expedite and simplify the movement of goods across borders and throughout
the entire supply chain from sourcing to selling. By joining forces, FedEx Trade Networks and
NextLinx will be able to offer the most robust solutions in the industry.NextLinx also points to
Cendian Corp. as a prime logistics example. Cendian a spin-off of Eastman Chemical Co. and a
logistics solutions provider that focuses exclusively on the chemical industry needed to ship
chemical products with certainty and safety in and out of 80-plus countries, while ensuring
compliance with all respective trade laws and securing the proper documentation for Customs and
other governmental agencies.NextLinx Trade Document solution manages document determination and
creation for chemical products being imported and exported via all modes of transportation. The
solution determines the appropriate documents required by different parties to export/import
internationally. The document engine is NextLinxs Web-based e-commerce solution, which already
supports more than 850 different trade document templates that can be instantly leveraged.The
electronic generation of all documents allows organizations to maintain full regulatory compliance
with the most up-to-date trade rules and regulations, and ensures customs clearance at port of
departure and port of entry. The solution comes with standard adapters for all major Enterprise
Resource Planning systems (ERPs), can be easily integrated into existing legacy systems and is a
cost-effective means to address compliance responsibilities.
Rajiv Uppal, founder, president and CEO, NextLinxThe Trade Documents solution helps companies
streamline and manage the entire documentation compliance process by electronically preparing and
distributing all necessary forms required for cross-border trade, said Uppal.3Com, a tier-one
provider of networking products, was looking for a centralized system that could manage compliance
responsibilities for its offices around the world. It initially purchased the NextLinx solution in
1999 and integrated it into its SAP ERP system. However, when 3Com customers downloaded software
from its website, a compliance hole was opened, and all parties were not screened against
restricted party lists. To solve this problem, NextLinx routed Web customers through the NextLinx
compliance software, and now both SAP and Web-sourced customers are supported on the same
software.These implementations demonstrate NextLinxs ability to deliver both Web-based and
traditional compliance solutions and integration expertise to support high-volume transactions for
global businesses, said Maynard.
May 2003
