Modern-day automation gives textiles a science-fiction feel, eliminating human error, waste and
inventory. Old pictures of mills always depict an endless number of people carrying and
handling material, pushing and pulling carts with merchandise, moving things back and forth. And
behind them are even more people, trying to keep track of what should go where. Todays mills look
different. Unmanned vehicles move quietly, picking up material at one machine, following invisible
tracks and commands to deliver their cargo to other machines or into specific areas in warehouse
systems. The scene looks more like the depiction of a giant space station in a science fiction
movie than what most people associate with a traditional textile mill. Yet this is today, and this
is textiles right here on earth. Of course, it is one thing to say mills can use gadgets that are
like those seen in science fiction movies. It is a very different thing to actually decide to use
such tools, and to pay for them. Its a competitive world out there, and investments must bring a
promise of returns. Many Hands Bring Much Opportunity For AutomationThere is a lot to be done
to fibers to make them into yarn and then a fabric, and between all the process steps a lot of
moving and carrying and handling is needed. Every time hands touch the material, there is an
opportunity to somehow automate this step. The secret is in knowing when the gentle touch of a
human hand is better for the product, and when the tender loving care of a machine serves it
better. Most machine producers offer varying degrees of automation for their equipment for
example, automated doffing, or for linking spinning and winding. But when it comes to transporting
cans with sliver, moving finished products such as yarn or fabric, and warehousing, automation
typically goes beyond what is associated with textile-specific equipment.

Autefa’s bale warehousing equipment handles, sorts, stores and dispatches bales. Moving
The BalesStarting with fiber, storing and transporting vast numbers of bales is an important task
in any yarn mill. Most mills use plenty of semi-automated equipment (forklifts and computer
tracking of bales) to aid in moving and locating the correct lot. However, there is quite a range
between using auxiliary equipment to aid in performing the necessary tasks and using fully
automated bale transport and storage. Autefa Automation, Germany (Fi-Tech Inc., Richmond, Va.), is
well-known in the textile industry. The company manufactures automated handling equipment for
staple and filament yarn companies. For staple fiber spinning mills, Autefa offers a full line of
bale-handling equipment, starting with the baling press (Lift-Box or Uni-Box), to automatic
wrapping and strapping (Intra-Wrap), to fully automated bale warehousing. A high degree of
automation is less an issue of saving labor costs and more an issue of consistent quality. Because
transport and storage require no labor involvement, there is no chance for human error. Uniform
packages also allow optimum stacking for transport and storage. Considering bale transport only,
Keith Mfg. Co., Madras, Ore., offers the Walking Floor System as an alternative to rolling floors,
allowing for cleaner and safer transport of bales over a smooth floor into opening and cleaning
equipment. For textile applications, the Walking Floor is presently used mostly in the ginning
industry. Other Transport SystemsTrastecnica S.p.A., Italy (Symtech Inc., Spartanburg), links
the draw frame to the spinning machine. Automatic guided vehicles (AGVs), just like those in
science fiction movies, move over invisible guide tracks. AGVs also may use an internal gyroscope
system to guide them to draw frames that have full cans. They then pick up the cans and move them
either to temporary buffer storage or to a space at the spinning machine where the cans are
empty. 

Trastecnica’s Rotor Link sliver can transport system links the draw frame to the spinning
machine.The AGV system is used in open-end and air-jet spinning mills. All commands are coordinated
in a computer system: the spinning machines signal need for more sliver; the draw frames signal
that four cans are full; and the computer coordinates the AGVs to ensure the right sliver goes to
the correct spinning machine. On top of that, each AGV remembers to recharge its batteries whenever
there is some time along the way. When it comes to transporting cops and cones, many machine
producers integrate these systems into their machines. Italy-based U.T.I.T. Wagner Automation (M
and M Machinery Sales LLC, Gastonia, N.C.) offers these systems, as well as bale handling and
overhead can transport. See Tessival Group, this issue, for a detailed description of a fully
automated plant using equipment from U.T.I.T.On the filament side, Autefa provides automatic
doffing that includes temporary storage and links to texturing or packaging. Transportation can be
performed overhead via a railway system or on the ground via AGVs. Storage for the bobbins is fully
automated, eliminating the chance of human error. The complete package includes automatic packaging
and labeling, which fully integrate the shipping activities into other business information
functions. San Grato CMT S.r.l., Italy (Symtech Inc.), produces fully automated systems for
doffing, transport, storage, and packing for all kinds of yarn. At this time, the company claims to
have the largest market share for advanced automation in the filament sector.

San Grato’s Robofix 3 robotized palletizer Automation PayoffsSo, when does it make sense
to use this degree of automation Fully automated handling systems require quite an investment in
terms of money and dedication. They are capable of handling enormous quantities of material and
tracking it at the same time. Typically, companies do not commit to these investments based solely
on labor savings the payoff period based on labor savings alone is not sufficient when compared to
production equipment. However, full automation typically is part of an integration into an
inventory management system and helps reduce throughput times and inventory levels. And the systems
always reduce the chances for human error, avoiding quality problems. By avoiding the risk of
mixing up different materials which easily results in producing waste and by avoiding misplacement
of products, it is possible not only to reduce costs, but also to enhance the companys reliability
with its customers. This is where automated material handling becomes a necessity. When considering
labor cost savings, it is also important to look at full labor cost, including training and
recruiting. One of the results of automation is that a number of high-turnover positions often are
replaced by a more permanent position with a focus on programming and maintaining the equipment.
Significant savings can be realized by avoiding high turnover, as costs for recruitment, training,
and loss of production and quality are avoided. The growing need for automated handling has been
recognized by companies not traditionally represented in the textile industry. SK Daifuku Corp.,
Salt Lake City (Batson Group Inc., Greenville), designs complete material-handling systems,
including storage buffers. Its systems use AGVs (tape, wire and laser guidance). The company
previously has custom-designed such systems for the computer assembly industry, as well as for food
processing companies. Formerly known as ESKAY Corp., SK Daifuku is now a division of Japan-based
Daifuku, whose systems are known in the automotive assembly industries, where just-in-time
principles have been integrated into transport and warehousing systems for some time
now. Handling The FabricWhen it comes to automated transport in fabric production, types of
equipment range from manual auxiliary lifters to fully automated transport and storage systems.
Hubtex of North America Inc., Spartanburg, produces a wide range of transport and storage
equipment. Primary installations in the textile industry include wire-guided vehicles that
transport warp and fabric. Custom-made systems provide transport among warp storage, weaving
machines, and fabric storage, as well as carousel storage systems for warp beams. Recent
installations include BGF Industries Inc. in South Hill, Va., and MillikenandCompany in Cedar Hill,
S.C.Krantz produces automatic winder and wrapping or packaging equipment. While this may not
represent automatic material handling in the more narrow sense, tensionless cutting and mandrelless
winding are important aspects within the handling of fabric. Additionally, Krantz is of course
known for its wrapping and clamping systems. Fabric contamination is a problem easily avoided by
wrapping the fabric, whether it is to be shipped or used later within the companys own facilities.
Automated packaging equipment not only reduces highly repetitive operations, but it also avoids
contamination during the packaging operation, as well as when interchanging products. Most
completely integrated systems require large operations to pay for themselves. Such systems can
handle large volumes of material and product, and smaller mills may not be able to fully realize
the benefits because the systems are laid out for more volume. Additionally, the chance of human
error is greatly reduced if fewer units are handled, especially if the number of different styles
is limited. Therefore, the size of the operation is relevant from a cost-savings perspective, as
well as from a quality assurance point of view. In smaller operations, fully automated systems may
not be appropriate.  Semi-Automated TransportGenkinger, Germany (Sourcing Services
International, Greer, S.C.), manufactures a wide range of semi-automated transport tools for the
weaving industry. A primary focus is in the area of handling equipment for warp beams as well as
fabric beams. 

Genkinger’s Electro warp beam lifting truckfeatures a harness mounting device.Genkingers
lifting trucks can be motorized or manual, but they are not fully automated or traveling around the
plant guided by some underground wire. Semi-automation is all that is needed at this part of the
operation. Warp beams run for quite some time without the need for replacement at the weaving
machine.  And as the need for a new warp arises, operators need to be involved anyhow, because
warp beam transfer has not yet been completely automated. This is a perfect example of a situation
where complete automation would not make economic sense, even if it were technically possible: it
makes sense only to automate an operation that is highly repetitive, such as doffing in spinning.
While each spindle runs many hours before doffing is required, the high number of spindles makes it
a highly repetitive task. This is not true for replacing warp beams, nor is it true for fabric
doffing in many weaving operations that are not using high-production looms. These are areas where
semi-automated equipment helps operators perform their jobs faster and better. A Continuing
TrendThere is no doubt that the trend towards more automation will continue. As the textile
industrys investment requirements for production equipment increase, payoff periods are becoming
longer, and automated handling equipment becomes an equal consideration. Typical fully automated
systems pay for themselves within about three to four years, according to Rodger Hartwig, vice
president, Symtech Inc.For very large plants, integrated material handling is already a necessity.
At high-production volume, even small cost savings can reach a break-even point. The most critical
aspects, however, are probably quality, reliability and the ability to quickly deliver the right
material or product to the right place. By eliminating human error, automated handling systems
reduce waste and inventory, and most importantly enhance the companys credibility with its
customers. And there is no science fiction about the importance of that.
Editor’s Note: Helmut H.A. Hergeth, Ph.D., is an associate professor in textile and apparel
technology and management at North Carolina State University’s College of Textiles, Raleigh,
N.C.

November 2002

New Stretch Fiber From DowWithstands Heat And ChemicalsDow Fiber Solutions (DFS), a new business
within the global polyolefins and elastomers portfolio of The Dow Chemical Co., Midland, Mich., has
introduced Dow XLA, an elastic polyolefin fiber. The U.S. Federal Trade Commission has rendered a
preliminary decision to grant Dow a new generic classification, lastol, for this new fiber.Romeo
Kreinberg, business group president, polyolefins and elastomers, stated, We are calling Dow XLA The
Freedom Fiber [W]e are introducing it at this difficult time because we think we can make a
difference. He said development and marketing of this new product are being conducted on a global
basis.Antonio Torres, global business director, DFS, noted the global fibers market is estimated to
be in excess of 125 billion pounds. Elastic fibers, about 250 million pounds, is the
fastest-growing segment, with an annual growth rate of 8 percent.Advantages noted include
processability, design and durability. Dow XLA can be woven like a hard fiber and processed the
same way as cotton or polyester. It does not stretch during weaving. Elasticity comes in how the
fabric is woven and finished. Dow XLA withstands temperatures of more than 220°C. Having the
inherent properties of olefins, it requires no special care. It can be bleached, mercerized,
stone-washed, cone-dyed or thermosol-dyed using standard processes.The first fabrics containing Dow
XLA are selling to shirt and sportswear markets. Denim is a special focus area. Yarns are available
through Drescafil of Spain and Belmont, N.C.-based R.L. Stowe Mills. Arco Texteis, Portugal, is
selling color wovens. Sportswear fabrics are available through Decouvelaere and shirtings through
Emanuel Lang, both based in France. Tejidos Royo, Portugal, will have a line of indigo-dyed
fabrics.Dow XLA was developed using the expertise of technicians from outside sources.
Organizations that contributed to its validation and commercialization are North Carolina State
University College of Textiles, Raleigh, N.C.; Industrial Technology Research Institute (ItrI) and
Hualon Corp., both in Taiwan; and Toyobo, Japan.Initial production is coming from Hualon, with an
increase in production expected in about six months, said Torres.Elongation figures for Dow XLA are
not available. The fiber is described as providing soft stretch comfort to apparel fabrics. Torres
said it is priced competitively with spandex fibers.
November 2002

mmWave RepresentsLabsphere In CanadaLabsphere Inc., North Sutton, N.H., has appointed Ontario-based
mmWave Technologies Inc. exclusive Canadian distributor for all Labsphere products and services,
which include integrating spheres, light measurement systems, diffuse reflectance coatings and
reflectance calibration standards. mmWave has offices in Ottawa, Montreal, Toronto, Calgary and
Vancouver.
October 2002

Atlas UpdatesAbrasion And Wear InstrumentChicago-based Atlas Material Testing Technology LLC has
updated its Universal Wear Tester (UWT) because its original mechanical design contributed to high
levels of variation between laboratories. ASTM International organized a consortium of 17 companies
and trade organizations that funded research to determine causes for the variability. Differences
were seen in specimen positioning, non-uniform tensioning and alignment of the reciprocating
table.Based on the research results, ASTM recommended Atlas replace the current cam system with
grips and a pressure pin to improve tensioning, and add a centering mechanism for improved specimen
alignment. Atlas went one step further and also added digital controls for accurate cycle counting
and timing, an improved air-injection system for more uniform inflation of the diaphragm and a
reciprocating table home position for repeatable test starts.The UWT performs a range of tests,
including surface abrasion, frosting, edge wear, and flex and fold abrasion tests on woven,
knitted, pile, nonwoven and coated fabrics.
October 2002

Unifi, Inc. today (October 7, 2002) announced that following the close of business on Friday,
October 4, 2002, in response to a Pre-Hearing Order of the Arbitration Panel, the Company received
information from E.I. DuPont De Nemours and Company (“DuPont”) concerning the damages alleged in
connection with the previously disclosed arbitration proceeding relating to their POY Manufacturing
Alliance (the “Alliance”). DuPont has now alleged damages from its previous breach of contract
claims and certain previously unasserted claims during the course of the Alliance from June 1, 2000
through September 30, 2002 of approximately $85 million.Of these damages, approximately $71 million
relate to DuPont’s contention that after creation of the Alliance, until and unless the Alliance
assets are running at full capacity, Unifi should buy all of its external POY needs from DuPont,
thus, taking business away from Unifi’s other third party POY suppliers. Unifi does not agree that
it was or is obligated to purchase these volumes of POY from DuPont. Had Unifi purchased these
volumes of POY from DuPont, the Company believes that the prices it would have paid DuPont for such
POY purchases would have been at or below the prices it actually paid to its other third party POY
suppliers.The remaining damages asserted by DuPont relate to an alleged approximately $8 million
issue regarding capacity utilization in the Alliance manufacturing facilities and approximately $6
million in interest.The Company continues to deny DuPont’s allegations concerning its arbitration
claims. Further, Unifi does not agree with DuPont’s asserted damage calculations applicable in the
event the Arbitration Panel were to find in DuPont’s favor in the arbitration. However, the Company
believes it appropriate to publicly disclose DuPont’s asserted damages as the same are materially
greater than the potential claims previously disclosed by the Company in its Form 10-K for the
fiscal year ended June 30, 2002, that was filed with the Securities and Exchange Commission
onSeptember 23, 2002. In its Form 10-K, the Company noted that based on DuPont’s claims made to the
date of filing the Form 10-K, DuPont’s claims could amount to approximately $23 million.The Company
continues to deny DuPont’s allegations and intends to vigorously defend against DuPont’s claims and
pursue its counterclaims. However, the outcomes of these claims and counterclaims are uncertain at
this time and any damages awarded to DuPont could be materially more or less than the amount
asserted. The arbitration hearing in this matter is currently scheduled to begin November 1, 2002.
The ultimate resolution of these matters could be material to Unifi’s financial position, results
of operations and cash flows.Copyright PR Newswire 2002

ATHF Inducts FourU.S. Textile Industry LeadersIn a ceremony held Sept. 9 at the American Textile
History Museum, Lowell, Mass., the American Textile Hall of Fame (ATHF) inducted four U.S. textile
industry leaders into its Class of 2002. Inductees include: E.I. du Pont de Nemours and Co.,
Wilmington, Del.; Frederick B. Dent, former chairman, Mayfair Mills, Spartanburg, and secretary of
commerce under Presidents Nixon and Ford; James Spencer Love (1896-1962), founder, Burlington
Industries, Greensboro, N.C.; and Whitin Machine Works, Whitinsville, Mass., founded in 1847 by
John C. Whitin, inventor of the Whitin picker for cleaning cotton.
October 2002

t From Flower To Fabric
Linen, the world’s oldest fiber, retains its luster. The history of linen goes back
10,000 years. Egyptian mummies were wrapped in linen. Jesus was swaddled in linen. Fragments of
linen, in all its forms (straw, seeds, yarns, ropes and fabrics), have been found in Switzerland
among the remains of homes of Neolithic lake dwellers.The botanical name of cultivated flax, the
plant that linen comes from, is linum usitatissimum. A literal translation is linen most useful.
The flax plant is one of natures most ecologically efficient treasures. It is a renewable resource,
no part goes unused, and flax can be grown virtually without using herbicides and pesticides.Seeds
of the flax plant are pressed to produce linseed oil a base for paint, varnish, soap, cosmetics,
linoleum and synthetic resins. Short fibers are used for paper and ropes. Even the bark of the flax
plant has a market in a variety of consumer and industrial products, from horse beds to chipboard.
Textile fiber comes from the stem of the plant. Today, linen is sought after for a wide
variety of end-uses, including apparel, decorative fabrics, table and bed products, and automotive
and industrial products. Consumers around the world buy linen because they like the way it looks,
feels and performs. With new varieties of flax; new processing techniques; and new ways of
spinning, weaving and finishing, the European linen industry has reinvented itself. And all of the
links in the supply chain are working together through the European flax and linen organization,
Masters of Linen, Paris, to market linen globally to a new and growing trade of niche players.

Libeco-Lagae’s 100-percent linen Campagna tablewear collection includes the plaid tablecloth
shown here. In 2001, world production of textile flax was up 22 percent over the previous
year. Within the European Union (EU), textile flax had a turnover of 300 million euros, plus
another 200 million euros for linen yarn.France is the worlds major flax producer, growing 64,000
tons annually on 55,500 hectares of land. It is ranked number-one for quality. Second for quality
is Belgium, coming in with 15,300 tons of flax grown on 13,300 hectares. Holland is third with
4,600 tons grown on 4,000 hectares. By contrast, China ranked sixth for quality grows flax on
100,000 hectares, but produces only 31,000 tons of fiber. Growing FlaxNormandy, with its
oceanic climate, high rainfall and deep silt filtering soils, is the center of flax farming in
France. Terre de Lin, a cooperative of 600 flax farmers, produces 12,000 metric tons of scutched
flax and 6,500 metric tons of scutched tow annually.At Terre de Lin, crops are rotated. Flax is
planted in the same beds once every six to seven years. Sugar beets, barley, corn, peas, potatoes
and wheat alternate. Flax sown in March is harvested in July. 

Depoortere pulling machines are used byfarmers in the Terre de Lin cooperative.Flax plants
are pulled from the ground rather than cut, in order to obtain the full length of the fibers, and
to prevent fiber discoloration. At one time, this work was done all by hand. Today, Terre de Lin
uses Depoortere pulling machines. Each machine costs about 100,000 euros. The equipment is owned by
the cooperative and loaned to each farmer. The plants are first de-seeded. Next comes retting
separating the straw or bark from the fiber. There are two main methods of retting dew and water.
Dew retting, the process used by Terre de Lin and most of Western Europe, is done by spreading the
flax in the field. The actions of dew, rain and sun, along with soil-borne bacteria, help to loosen
and dissolve the outer bark. After retting, each farmer in the Terre De Lin cooperative rolls and
stores the flax stems.Flax also can be water-retted. This process involves submerging the flax in
water for between six and 20 days, allowing bacterial action to cause the bark to be loosened.
Today, many farmers consider this process too expensive. Egypt is one country where flax is
water-retted in the Nile River. Processing FlaxScutching, the next step, is done by Terre de
Lin at its plant. This process extracts the flax fibers from the retted straw. Linimpianti machines
move the flax on long tables to remove impurities. Dehondt and Depoortere equipment is used to
further thresh the flax and extract the fibers. At Terre de Lin, the scutching process divides the
scutched flax into fine fibers called line, shorter fibers called tow, and shives. Shives are the
woody part of the plant.Line is further processed by hackling to form sliver. Line sliver is
weighed, manually sorted and packed in bales or rollers weighing 100 kilograms. Line can be wet- or
dry-spun.Tow can be dry-spun on the cotton system or spun on the worsted system. It is also used
for nonwovens, including paper, and for technical products such as insulation. Shives are packed
and shipped for a variety of industrial products.  Research And DevelopmentThe Terre de Lin
cooperative has extensive testing and development laboratories, where it breeds new varieties of
plants. Flax plants are cross-pollinated in a greenhouse. Fifty thousand new varieties are culled
down to 200. From these, one is selected and tested for three years. If it has promise, seeds are
planted in a large field for further testing. Officials from the French governments department of
agriculture approve and certify each new variety. Total time to create a new variety is 10
years. Alain Blosseville, president, Terre de Lin, said growers are looking for plants that
are fungus-resistant and will not fall over in the wind. At the same time, we are working to
improve the yield and fiber content, he said. Our spinning customers are asking for finer, thinner
fibers and homogeneous lengths.

Terre de Lin grows seven varieties of spring flax. Hermis the current favorite. Winter
FlaxRecently, Terre de Lin developed Ade, a new variety of winter flax. It can be sown in September
and harvested in June. According to Blosseville, the advantages of winter flax are many. Retting
conditions are better in June than in July, when spring crops are ready. Generally, growing fields
are idle in winter, so flax cultivation helps to prevent soil erosion. Also, being able to pull
flax a month early extends the use of the Depoortere pulling machines.Ade can grow in temperatures
as cold as -10°C, so it can be planted in Germany and Eastern Europe, where winters are harsh. It
is expected to be available commercially in about two years.There are seven spring flax varieties
at Terre de Lin. Hermis the current favorite, representing 60 percent of the market. In addition to
scutched flax, tow and shive, Terre de Lin produces 3,000 tons of seed annually, which represents
40 percent of the French market. SpinningFlax fiber processor and spinner NV Jos Vanneste
S.A., Belgium, began as a trading company in the late 19th century, buying containers of line flax
retted in the River Lys and selling to spinners in Belgium and Northern France. The company is
family-owned, currently run by the fourth generation of Vannestes. President Werner Vanneste
explained that at one time, 80 percent of the flax grown in France came through this region.Jos
Vanneste continued as a trader until World War II. After the war, the company began processing
scutched tow. This followed with the carding of flax waste for paper making, blending linen with
other fibers, preparing and processing linen for spinning on both the cotton and worsted systems,
and creating pure linen multicolored yarns. Specialty yarn spinning began in 1989. Today, with a
monthly capacity of 500 tons, Jos Vanneste sells quality products to niche markets around the
world.Our strengths are research and creativity, Vanneste said, in order to improve both quality
and production processing, as well as discover new end-uses for linen.One new end-use for Vanneste
yarns is automobile interior fabrics. Nonwovens blending flax with polypropylene are being sold to
prestigious European automobile companies, including BMW, Audi and SAAB. In the United States,
development is underway with major manufacturers. 

The blending of dyed sliver at Jos Vanneste is done using Mackie machinesAt the Vanneste
fiber processing plant, scutched tow is cleaned and humidity added using Van Dommele equipment. NSC
machines clean and comb sliver. Tow for the U.S. market is blended for spinning on the cotton
system using Rieter equipment. Italy is buying fiber prepared for the worsted system. Fiber dyeing
prior to spinning is a Vanneste specialty. Sliver preparation, blending of dyed sliver and wet
spinning is done using Mackie machines. In the 1960s, 60 percent of Vannestes production was
exported to the United States. With the advent of easy care, the demand for 100-percent linen
lessened. Today, with new, washable and wrinkle-free linens, and increased use of multi-fiber
blends, linen sales are on the upswing. Linen WeavingLibeco-Lagae, located in Meulebeke,
Belgium, has been weaving linen since 1858. The same families still own the business, with the
fifth and sixth generations now running the company. Originally, linen yarns were brought to local
farmers to be woven in their homes on handlooms, much like the way Harris Tweeds still are woven
today. When business expanded, handlooms were installed at one location. In 1904, the first
mechanical looms were purchased. Production ceased and inventory was hidden during the Nazi
occupation of Belgium during World War II. Originally two companies, Libeco and Lagae merged
in 1997. Patrick Lagae is managing director, and Raymond Libeert is chairman and managing director.
When the merger took place, workers concerned about job security relaxed when 60 people were added
to the staff. Today, the work force totals 222. Currently, there is no unemployment in the
region.Libeco-Lagae has an annual production of 5 million square meters, which is more than 60
percent of all linen woven in Belgium. In 1999, it had a turnover of 30.66 million euros. Turnover
increased to 34.45 million euros in 2000. Today, the company is

In addition to weaving 100-percent linen fabrics for a variety of apparel, home and technical
end-uses, Libeco-Lagae also manufactures products for its Home Collection. The bed linens shown
above are from a line called Marocco. Libeco-Lagae looms run around the clock and are
monitored by a central computer. During an eight-hour shift, each weaver can be responsible for 10
to 15 looms.Linen yarns from Belgium, France, Italy and Poland are checked for strength, humidity
and color. They are stored for several days to gain the right amount of humidity before warping.
There are three Benninger warping machines, each of which can set up a warp to weave as little as
700 meters of fabric or up to 7,000 meters.Libeco-Lagaes new plant contains 68 looms, 56 of which
are Sulzer projectile looms. Others include recently purchased Sulzer rapier looms. The weaving
plant is kept dust-free by roving robots. Quality control is a hands-on process. Fabrics are
checked for evenness of weave, moisture content, color and any specific treatments.For the apparel
market, Libeco-Lagae weaves delicate handkerchief linens, shirtings, crepes, yarn-dyed novelties,
sport weights and linen/wool blends. For the home, there are fabrics for upholstery, draperies,
wall coverings, table top, bed and bath. Technical fabrics range from artists canvases, luggage
fabrics and bookcloths to paneling, insulation, filtration and even fabrics for light aviation use.
In addition to weaving more than 4,000 different linen or linen-blend fabrics, Libeco-Lagae
recently launched a Home Collection of finished linen products.Libeco-Lagae linens are sold in more
than 50 countries. Eighty-five percent of its product is exported, with current focus on the
Americas. In 1996, the company took over Hamilton Adams Decorative Fabrics in New York. 

Masters of Linen anticipates trends in order to direct industrial development for its member
companies. This suit is from a collection by the French menswear brand Newman. Photo courtesy of
Masters of Linen.European linen fabrics today are luxurious, elegant, comfortable and practical.
Linen is thermoregulating, nonallergenic, antistatic and antibacterial. Because it can absorb up to
20 times its weight in moisture before it feels damp, linen feels cool and dry to the touch. It is
not by accident that the worlds oldest and most useful fiber is still in great demand.

October 2002