Understanding Geotextiles


A
strong interaction and spirit of cooperation has developed among suppliers of geotextile
and geosynthetic products, consultants, universities and field civil engineers with regard to the
use and specifications for these materials. There is no one type of geotextile or geosynthetic that
fulfills all needs; therefore, the development of specialty materials and their applications
continues to grow.


Understanding The Basic Functions Of Geotextiles

Geotextiles, as defined by the Geosynthetic Research Institute (GRI) at Drexel University,
Philadelphia, are flexible, textile-like fabrics of controlled permeability used to provide
filtration, separation, reinforcement and drainage functions except liquid barriers in soil, rock
and waste materials. Following are the four most prominent functions geotextiles perform in civil
engineering applications:

Filtration: Geotextiles act as filters between soil and drainage gravel, preventing soil
particles from being carried away by the filtered water. The drainage gravel has a tendency to
become clogged, and the soil has a tendency to be washed away. The role of geotextiles as a filter
is to limit this phenomenon.

Separation: Separation refers to the ability of geotextiles to prevent the mixing of two
materials, such as a soft subgrade with a clean base aggregate.

Reinforcement: Soil movement is reduced by the confinement and reinforcing action of
geotextiles, which function by absorbing part of the stress that normally would cause shear
failure.

Drainage: The lengthwise permeability of the geotextile allows it to perform as a drain. The
amount of drainage is proportional to the thickness of the fabric.

tencate

This nonwoven geotextile manufactured by Ten Cate Nicolon USA is used in a
drainage application during roadway construction.


Development Of Geotextiles

In 1926, the South Carolina Department of Highways used heavy cotton fabric on a primed earth
base, followed by a hot asphalt coating topped with sand to reinforce roads. These roads exhibited
reduced cracking and localized failures, while the cotton fabric remained intact. As the cotton
fabric degraded, the roads gradually deteriorated. In the early 1960s, woven monofilament fabric
was used to eliminate an erosion problem along waterfront property in Florida. The success of this
project resulted in the US Army Corps of Engineers using the monofilament fabric for erosion
control and subsurface drainage. The US Department of Agriculture Forest Service also began to
experiment with woven geotextiles to stabilize logging roads in the mid-1960s. Some early woven
geotextile fabrics were made with Saran monofilament yarns, but later were made with polypropylene
(PP) monofilament yarns as they became available. Around this same time in Europe, strong interest
was growing in geotextiles, in part driven by higher prices and scarcity of gravel and sand.
Geotextiles allow more efficient use of these materials.


Establishing Standards

Products for use in civil engineering applications are sold on a specification basis. Because of
the conservative nature of civil engineers and others in the construction industry, the early
acceptance of geotextiles was slow. The terminology and testing methods used by the fiber and
textile industries are vastly different from those used by civil engineers and the construction
industry, so a mutual education process was necessary.

An important step in establishing geotextiles standards in the United States was the
establishment in 1984 of Committee D 35 on Geosynthetics by ASTM International, West Conshohocken,
Pa. The committee established subcommittees for mechanical properties, endurance properties and
filtration.

ASTM defines a geosynthetic as a planar product manufactured from polymeric material used with
solid rock, earth or other geotechnical engineering-related material as an integral part of a
man-made project structure or system. The members of Committee D-35 on Geosynthetics have played a
key role in the development and acceptance of geosynthetics by civil engineers and the construction
industry throughout the world. As of last year, 106 geosynthetic standards were contained in the
ASTM International Book of Standards, Volume 4.13. Robert M. Koerner, Ph.D., professor of civil
engineering at Drexel University, and director of GRI, has worked closely with ASTM, geosynthetics
producers and the civil engineering community to promote the use and acceptance of geosynthetics.
He has worked diligently with Committee D-35 since its inception to expedite the development of
standards for geosynthetics. As an educator, Koerner has integrated geosynthetics into the civil
engineering curriculum and conducted numerous workshops and courses on geosynthetics for practicing
civil engineers throughout the world.


Types Of Geosynthetics

Geosynthetics comprise a wide range of products. GRI defines these products as follows:

Geogrids: stiff or flexible polymer grid-like sheets with large apertures used primarily to
reinforce unstable soils and rock masses;

Geonets: polymer net-like sheets with in-plane openings that are used primarily as drainage
materials within landfills or in soil and rock masses;

Geopipes: perforated or solid-wall polymeric pipes used to drain various liquids;

Geosynthetic clay liners: prefabricated bentonite clay liners that are incorporated between
geotextiles and/or geomembranes and used as a barrier for liquid or solid waste containment;

Geomembranes: essentially impermeable polymeric sheets used as barriers for liquid or solid
waste; and

Geocomposites: hybrid systems of any or all of the above geosynthetic products that are
specially designed for use in rock-, waste- and liquid-related problems.

GRI reports the total sales and use of geosynthetic materials in transportation, geotechnical
and environmental applications are increasing at rates of 10 percent to 20 percent in each of the
above categories.


Polymers And Fabrics Used In Geotextiles

The two most used polymers in geotextile products are PP and polyester (PET).

PP is used because of its availability, favorable price and ability to be made into a wide range
of textile structures. PET use in geotextiles is growing for specialty, high-performance
applications where low creep and a high degree of dimensional stability are required.


Types Of Geotextile Fabrics

Most woven geotextile fabrics are made from slit film PP yarns, monofilament or continuous
multifilament yarns. A major application for slit film PP fabric is for silt fences to control
sediment runoff from construction. Most slit film yarns are pigmented black to maximize their
sunlight resistance. Woven monofilament fabrics are often used in erosion control applications.

Nonwoven fabrics for geotextile use can be made from either staple fibers or from continuous
filaments in the form of spunbonded fabrics that are subsequently needlepunched. The needlepunching
process enables fabrics to be made with controlled porosities. High-porosity fabrics reduce the
potential for clogging, making these fabrics useful for subsurface drainage and erosion control.
Heatbonding of nonwovens provides thinner and stiffer fabrics of lower porosity. The higher
strength of heatbonded fabrics makes them useful for road stabilization applications.


US Companies In The Geotextiles Business

Propex Fabrics Inc., Austell, Ga., a subsidiary of Propex Fabrics Holdings Inc. (formerly AFFC
Holdings Inc.) recently finalized its acquisition of London-based BP’s Amoco Fabrics and Fibers
subsidiary
(See “Propex Fabrics Finalizes AFFC Purchase,”

www.TextileWorld.com

, January 2005). In addition to manufacturing woven and nonwoven geotextiles, this company
is a major producer of carpet backings. Ten Cate Nicolon USA a leading manufacturer of woven,
nonwoven and speciality industrial and construction products and its Mirafi division, Pendergrass,
Ga., are part of The Netherlands-based Royal Ten Cate Group, a global supplier of technical
textiles and technical components. Royal Ten Cate recently celebrated its 300th year as a textile
enterprise. The company has extensive experience in geotextiles and geosynthetics because dikes in
The Netherlands depend on geosynthetics to protect low-lying land from being overtaken by the
sea.

SI Corp., Chickamauga, Ga., produces PP fiber as a merchant producer and also for use in its
nonwoven geotextile, carpet backing and industrial fabrics. The company’s geotextile fabrics are
produced by needlepunching PP staple fibers and by weaving PP slit film and monofilament yarns. SI
Concrete Systems, the division that markets and sells fibers for use in concrete reinforcement,
offers PP fibers, steel fibers and blended fiber solutions. SI Geosolutions, the division that
markets and sells geotextiles, has developed a range of erosion control blankets made from natural
fibers; and turf reinforcement mats made from PP yarns, fibers and nets.

Huesker Inc.’s specialty reinforcement products include geocomposites and nonwovens using
polypropylene, polyester or acrylic fibers.

Charlotte-based Huesker Inc. is a producer of specialty geotextiles and geosynthetics. Huesker
Synthetic, the Germany-based parent company of Huesker, supplies geotextile and geosynthetic
products throughout the world. The company’s products which include Fortrac®, Comtrac®, Hatelit®
and Fornit® utilize woven and nonwoven fabrics of PP and PET, and a range of geogrid products alone
and in geocomposites. Comtrac is composed of woven or knitted high-tenacity PET and PP yarns. The
fabric develops tension at low strain when its high-tenacity PET yarns are placed in a linear
manner. This allows immediate soil-to-geotextile load transfer, which provides the tensile strength
required in reinforced soil structures. Comtrac is well-suited for reinforcement of weak earth
walls and foundation soils. Because the fabric is pliable and resistant to freeze-thaw conditions,
it is often used to reinforce earthen structures that are more than 20 feet tall.

“When we look at the geosynthetics market, we see two distinct segments,” said Thomas G.
Collins, president. Collins has worked in the geotextile and geosynthetic business for more than 30
years. “The larger market is driven primarily by need, ease of use and cost savings, and can be
handled by a stocking/distribution network. The smaller segment is comprised of specialty producers
who market their products on an engineer-to-engineer basis. A given project may have a need for
higher reinforcement, high puncture protection or a combination of materials in other words, film
bonded to nonwoven; or the engineer may need reinforcement with a low strain limit or a grid with
large apertures. These are specialty needs that can only be met with a level of trust between the
project engineer and the manufacturing engineer. These are rare stock items, and so, special runs
of material are created and shipped direct to [a specific] site. It is a small, niche market for
geosynthetics, but it is very important to the expansion of this industry.”


Looking Ahead

In geotextiles, PP will continue to amount to more than 50 percent of the polymer used. The use
of PET, particularly in woven fabrics, will grow in areas where its higher modulus and lower creep
properties will be an advantage. Use of geocomposites will continue to increase as producers
develop improved bonding and lamination techniques, and specialty product uses also increase. The
separation of polymer producers from the geotextile and geosynthetic industry will produce more of
an engineering approach to their use rather than a commodity marketing mentality. 

February 2005

ACIMIT’s Annual Activity


A
t the end of last year, the Milan-based Association of Italian Textile Machinery
Manufacturers (ACIMIT) held a press conference to discuss the organization’s activities in 2004,
the outlook for the Italian textile industry in 2005 and the upcoming International Knitting
Machinery Exhibition (IKME).


A Look Back At 2004

According to preliminary ACIMIT figures for 2004, the Italian textile machinery industry saw
production activity last year drop 5 percent, totaling 3,017 million euros. This drop was a result
of reduced internal deliveries and deliveries to foreign markets. Exports dropped 4 percent to
2,293 million euros.

“[T]his situation is the result of various negative factors such as the stagnation in the
domestic market as well as in other important textile markets, the considerable revaluation of the
euro in terms of the US dollar and price increases for raw materials that have had a serious effect
on the accounts of textile machinery companies,” Alberto M. Sacchi, Ph.D., chairman, ACIMIT, told
reporters.


Difficulties In The Italian Market

Signs of a slight recovery in certain downstream sectors just after last summer proved to be
false, resulting in domestic demand for machines dropping 35 percent between 2002 and 2004.

ACIMIT also attributed this negative trend to European market stagnation and continued upward
revaluation of the euro in relation to the US dollar.

“We are undergoing a serious restructuring,” Sacchi said, “in which company size growth,
internationalization of the company activity and systematic innovation are now the indispensable
competitive tools for strengthening Italian textile machinery companies.”

According to ACIMIT, exports are still the largest area of production activity for the
Italian textile machinery sector, making up more than 75 percent of company turnover.


Italy’s Main Markets

Asia continued to dominate exports of Italian textile machinery in 2004 and, according to the
association, looks to be the best hope for continued growth in that sector in 2005 and beyond
(See ACIMIT Looks To Asia,
www.TextileWorld.com, November 2004)
. China accounted for 17 percent
of total exports, or 357 million euros. Exports to India also were up 17 percent compared to 2003,
while exports to Iran and Pakistan rose by more than 75 percent and 57 percent, respectively.
Turkey remains a strong export market, ranking second overall in global exports.

Exports to Eastern European countries such as Poland also were strong, as were sales to
countries such as Syria and Egypt in the Mediterranean region.

In an effort to compensate for a drop in sales to the United States, Italian textile
machinery producers focused on South America. Brazil proved a particularly receptive market for
machinery exports.


Italian Machinery Producers Look To 2005

In presenting its forecast for activity in the coming year, ACIMIT made the following
statement: “[A]ny slowdown in the world economy will inevitably also have a negative effect on
producers of capital goods, especially if this slowdown also affects China, as forecast by certain
important economic institutes. In the textile sector, it appears that the end of the Multifiber
Agreement as of January 2005 will lead to scenarios which have still not been clearly defined. The
end of the quota system established by this agreement could have serious repercussions on the
growth dynamics within various textile industries. The beneficiaries of this new situation will
again be the big Asian sector players, China and India, to the detriment not only of the more
developed industries, but also of the Asian countries which do not have the strength of numbers
which China and India have. There is no doubt that there will be demand for the machinery, which
can increase the quality levels of the finished products. The demand will come from both countries
which want to exploit the strong positions acquired and countries [that] are not prepared to lose
too much ground in the global challenge underway in the textile/clothing industry.”


Based on these forecasts, the association believes international demand will be the saving
grace of the Italian textile machinery sector, and much of that demand will come from Asia. It also
does not rule out demand from other countries that may benefit from recently enacted or future free
trade agreements.

“The Italian sector companies must respond very quickly to these market changes or there will
be a major loss of competitiveness,” Sacchi said.

Analysis of the data for international sector exchanges has shown that until 2003, Italy was
among the four main textile machinery producers also including Germany, Japan and Switzerland, and
was the only country to acquire market shares within the worldwide panorama.

“Considerable reflection about the current situation is currently in progress,” Sacchi added.
“The task of the association must be to provide adequate tools and instruments to interpret the
complexity of the market and to be the spokesperson for the various Italian textile machinery
initiatives with the corresponding institutions.”


ACIMIT Activities

Last year, ACIMIT organized international technical seminars, and training courses in Italy.
The association also participated in a number of trade fairs in cooperation with the Italian
Ministry for Production and the Italian Trade Commission.

This year, the association hopes to develop promotional programs in China, India, Indonesia,
Iran, Pakistan, Turkey, Vietnam and Bulgaria, among other countries.

These programs will include Italian textile machinery workshops held in cooperation with the
Italian Trade Commission in Ho Chi Min City, Vietnam; and Bandung, Indonesia. Representatives of
Italian manufacturing companies that export equipment to Indonesia will offer local textile
manufacturers an overview of their newest technologies in the finishing sector. ACIMIT considers
Indonesia an important market Italian textile machinery valued at 12 million euros was exported to
that country in 2004. Spinning, knitting and finishing machines were the most requested.


ACIMIT estimate for Italian textile machinery exports by area in 2004

The workshop to be held in Vietnam will focus on the newest spinning and finishing
technologies. Italian machinery sales to Vietnam last year totaled 5 million euros. Weaving and
finishing machines were the most requested.


IKME 2005

ACIMIT also will participate in a number of trade fairs, such as IKME 2005, to be held
November 18-22, in Milan
(See IKME Update,
www.TextileWorld.com, January 2005)
.

“We are certain that IKME can become a reference point for producers and visitors from
Europe, the Middle East and the Mediterranean area, areas to where about 50 percent of [Italian]
exports are destined,” Sacchi told reporters.


“It will be an innovative trade fair [that] will highlight the synergies among operators from
the various production process aspects,” he added. “These synergies will also be created through
the involvement of our companies’ customers in the definition of a trade fair structure [that] can
capture the attention of the visitor [by demonstrating] new and innovative products by using the
technological applications on [display].”

February 2005

Delta Apparel Sells Yarn Plant To Parkdale America

Delta Apparel Inc., Duluth, Ga., has completed the sale of its Edgefield, S.C., yarn plant to
Parkdale America LLC, Gastonia, N.C., for $10 million.

Delta also entered into a five-year agreement with Parkdale whereby Delta and its subsidiary
M.J. Soffe Co. will purchase from Parkdale all yarn required for their apparel lines. “The sale of
the Edgefield Plant completes our long-term yarn strategy of obtaining high-quality, low-cost yarn
while reducing our working capital investment and eliminating our need for future capital
expenditures in yarn manufacturing,” said Robert W. Humphreys, president and CEO, Delta Apparel.
“Our business partnership with Parkdale through the supply agreement will allow us to acquire
quality yarn that has been manufactured [using] the most modern equipment available. We will use
the proceeds from the sale of the plant and the reduction in working capital needs to reduce our
debt and continue our investment in our marketing and distribution strategies that should grow our
overall business.”

February 2005

MaxiSoft Develops HazCom Labeling Software

MaxiSoft, a Somerset, Wis.-based developer of safety identification software and a subsidiary of
K-Sun Corp., has developed software that facilitates compliance with the Occupational Safety and
Health Administration’s Hazard Communication Standard regulations. The MaxiSoft® RTKV2 HazCom
Chemical Labeling Software allows companies to print labels and up-to-date material safety data
sheets (MSDS) for hazardous chemicals used in the workplace. The data may be customized and printed
in-house as needed using any ink-jet or laser printer. MSDS information for more than 160,000
materials may be accessed on-line and stored on a desktop computer. Labels may be laminated using
MaxiSoft Lamination die cut overlams. More durable labels may be made using the RTKV2 software with
the K-Sun 9000XXL and PolyDurable® with RTKV2 preprinted formats.

February 2005

Finding Design Inspiration In Paris

Dow Fiber Solutions is focusing on new growth markets such as wool, knits and no-wrinkle
cotton for its DOW XLA elastic fiber.


A
ttendees at Expofil and Indigo, which recently took place in Paris, saw increased
interaction among exhibitors of yarn, surface design and fabric. Both shows attracted large crowds
from the textile, apparel and retail trades.

Among the 150 exhibitors at Expofil were fiber companies and spinners of yarns for flat-bed
knitting, weaving and circular knitting. They showed yarns for Fall/Winter 2005-06 and
Spring/Summer 2006. The more than 14,000 visitors to this show found yarns for apparel, the home
and high-tech performance.

Indigo, now in its thirtieth year, attracted 175 exhibitors, close to 40 percent of which
were from the United Kingdom. The show presented designs for printed fabrics, embroideries,
appliqués; knitwear and woven patterns. Most exhibitors showed surface designs for Fall/Winter
2005-06.


Color Trends At Expofil

For Fall/Winter 2005-06, Sylvie Tastemain, fashion director, Expofil, showed yarns and
fabrics for flat-bed knitting. Tweeds turned up again. They may be rustic and sophisticated, woven
or knitted with slubbed, nubbed or looped yarns. Tastemain stressed color  – some tweeds have
brightly colored nubs; others are blurred or tonal. She also stressed fine and ultra-fine yarns in
wool, cashmere and kid mohair. She mentioned round yarns spun from blends of natural and man-made
fibers to give fabrics fluidity and a smooth, slippery touch. She also mentioned elastic yarns for
a more compact look, contrasts of matte with shiny or frosted yarns, oxidized metal, copper and
stainless steel yarns. The focus of Tastemain’s Spring/ Summer 2006 forecast is weaving and
circular knitting.

At Expofil, she showed four ranges. Garden of Delight colors are sunny, bright shades of
saffron yellow, apple green and rose pink. Yarns and fabrics in this group are supple and sheer.
Colors in a range called Botanical Garden are greens that include yellow-cast chrysanthemum and
eucalyptus, or blue-cast agave. Yarns are dry and crunchy, uneven or glossy. Neutrals in the
Timeless City group are sophisticated shades of whitewash, stone, beige and steel. Black and white
also are included. Sandy or grained surfaces, translucent effects, crepes, silk bourettes, piquand
aged looks are of note. Canvas, linens, drills and twills are some of the fabrics that turn up in
Ephemeral City. Denim is dyed black or brown. Indigo, peat and a tinted white shade called Sky Blue
are found in this group.


Promoting Fibers

Companies use Expofil as a platform to launch new fiber variants, new alliances and new
marketing strategies. Black Lycra®, the newest addition to Wilmington, Del.-based INVISTA Inc.’s
portfolio of elastane fibers, was introduced at the most recent show. A major benefit of this fiber
is reduced grin-through in dark fabrics. It is compatible with nylon and polyester, and the black
retains its color through multiple washings.

At Lenzing AG, Austria, the news was the acquisition of Tencel Ltd., England. “This
economically sensible and far-reaching decision will accelerate the expansion course that Lenzing
has embarked upon the textile chain as a whole will benefit,” said Friedrich Weninger, general
manager, textile fibers business unit. “For our customers, the merger translates first and foremost
into more service and more fiber know-how, as well as a more extensive range of fibers.”

Lenzing now owns and operates production sites in the United States, the United Kingdom,
Austria and Indonesia. Lyocell production has tripled. The fiber range comprises an assortment of
lyocell, Modal® and flame-retardant fibers, among others. A new visual design and branding strategy
will be presented this spring.

Unifi Inc., Greensboro, N.C., focused on performance with a natural touch. For activewear,
fabrics containing Sorbtek® absorb and evaporate moisture rapidly. A.M.Y.® yarns have antimicrobial
and odor-control properties. Unifi displayed novelty piece-dyed fabrics by Montreal-based knitter
Tricots Liesse (1983) Inc. that have the look of yarn dyes.

The Italy-based RadiciFiber companies stressed quality and fashion. Hosiery, circular and
warp knitting, seamless, swimwear, sportswear and lingerie are major market areas for its nylon,
polyester and spandex yarns. S-45 is one of Radici’s most sought-after spandex yarns. It is
heat-resistant and compatible with polyester for high-temperature dyeing. Dow Fiber Solutions,
Midland, Mich., continues to focus on new growth markets with its DOW XLA elastic fiber. “Right
now, we are focused on wool, knits and no-wrinkle cotton because those are emerging areas for
stretch innovation,” said Juan-Carlos Cuadrado, global business director.

Extra-fine merino wool/XLA has been introduced by Italy-based Lanificio Luigi Botto S.p.A.
Fabrics are woven of four-ply yarns and have 2- to 8-percent stretch.

“Leaders in the wool industry appreciate the way Dow XLA virtually disappears into wool
fabrics, allowing the natural drape and hand of the wool to remain unchanged,” said Brad Miller,
commercial director.

Cotton/XLA blends were first introduced to the men’s dress shirt market three years ago by
leading retailers such as Marks and Spencer. Along with comfort stretch, no-iron finishes are
another advantage. At the next Expofil, Dow will announce a major program with a leading US shirt
manufacturer. New areas for Dow are swimwear, intimate apparel, seamless and denim. Because XLA is
resistant to heat and chemicals, it can withstand severe dyeing, bleaching, mercerizing and
garment-wash conditions. In processing, it behaves like a rigid fiber. Fabrics can be molded and
still retain their stretch properties, and they can be heat-set at low temperatures.


Yarns Make An Impact

Spinners emphasized quality and performance as important selling tools, along with look and
touch. With new fibers and technologies, specialty yarns for specific end-uses are turning up with
greater frequency. They offer greater moisture transport, absorbency, abrasion resistance and
temperature control, and less pilling. They are antibacterial, antimicrobial, antistatic and
stain-resistant. Fancy yarns and special-effect yarns are going into hosiery, apparel and products
for the home.

Miroglio S.p.A., Italy, showed a new generation of yarns. Most of the line is going into
woven fabrics and circular knits. The Mirhon product range includes polyester filament yarns in
bright, super-bright, semi-dull and extra-dull luster. Some Mirhon products impart a silk look and
touch, others are cotton-like, and many have stretch. There are hollow-core yarns, flame-retardant
yarns and filament yarns with elastic properties that are dyeable using cationic dyestuffs.

Miroglio’s Soft Easy-Care New Stretch (S.E.N.S.) is based on a new Corterra polytrimethylene
terephthalate polymer from Houston-based Shell Chemical LP. Fabrics made with this fiber are soft;
and have excellent drape, color intensity, stretch and recovery. Emile Tardy, France, exhibited a
line of classic and novelty yarns for fine-gauge jersey, silk weaving and upholstery. There are
twisted yarns of polyester/viscose, dyed yarns and printed yarns. Slubbed yarns are going into
shantung for both apparel and home furnishings fabrics. There are multicolored twisted yarns,
bouclé yarns and chines.

Marioboselli Jersey S.p.A., Italy, is spinning luxury yarns in novelty blends. At the show,
there was a good response to linen/Lycra blends in fine counts. The yarn is sampling to the weaving
and circular knitting trades. Silk in blends with cashmere, wool or linen is available in all
standard counts; and fancy yarns are available in a polyester/viscose blend.

At Indigo, Nino Cerruti presented the Texprint Award for print design to Yujin
Jung.

Bamboo is turning up with increased frequency. At A-Dress, France, it is blended with
cashmere or silk, or spun alone. According to the company, customers ask for bamboo because of its
antibacterial, high-absorbency properties; and because it is a natural fiber.

Nef + Co., the marketing arm of Spoerry and Co. AG, Switzerland, introduced new products for
hosiery, fine wovens and lingerie. It is the only producer of Giza 45 – the longest-staple Egyptian
cotton and Sea Island cotton yarn.

Switzerland-based Hermann Buhler AG – parent company of Jefferson, Ga.-based Buhler Quality
Yarns Corp. – is spinning extra-long-staple Supima® cotton in counts of Nm 50 to 170, organically
grown extra-long-staple cotton and MicroModal®. Specialties are high-twist and crepe yarns. Its
SwissCotton Silver® containing X-Static silver-coated fiber is having success in the apparel,
hosiery, home furnishings and healthcare industries.

Fanon, the newest yarn at Kurabo Industries Ltd., Japan, is spun of combed cotton covered
with 60/1 to 80/1 cotton to give bulk and a cashmere touch. Extra-long-staple Supima cotton from
the United States is spun alone and in blends. Lunafa, a wool-core yarn covered with cotton, has
heat-retention properties, absorbs moisture and is easy to care for. Kurabo reports it is selling
well for socks and underwear.

Schoeller GmbH and Co. KG, Austria, uses nanotechnology to give yarns a new structure. There
are waterproof yarns of 70-percent merino wool and 30-percent acrylic that have a soft touch, and
are stain-resistant and machine-washable. They are found in a variety of end-uses, from sweaters to
automotive interiors. Another Schoeller development is Climawool, a moisture-transport fiber that
is a blend of 60-percent merino wool and 40-percent polycolon.


Surface Designs

At Indigo, many studios reported color, glitter and folklore were selling. Tom Cody of Tom
Cody Design Inc., New York City, said business was very good. Brighter colors, embroideries, beads
and sequins are some of the highlights of his collections.

At Amanda Kelly, England, emerald and yellow greens were cited as popular colors. Florals and
paisleys that look like watercolor paintings, ethnic geometrics and large-scale linear embroideries
are popular. Shades of teal, raspberry, chocolate brown and olive were popular at the New York
City-based Colorfield Design Studio. Loose paisley designs, Bloomsbury Bohemians, foulard patterns
and small-scale geometrics are among its best sellers. Glitter, prints combined with embroideries,
mixed-culture ethnics and texture were noted at Brewster Ltd., England. Karen Moller, based in
Paris, said skin prints are still popular. She also showed 1930s-styled florals and 1920s-styled
tropicals, and folkloric paisleys coordinated with stripes that had a Middle Eastern feeling.

Zinc Design Ltd., England, specializes in knits. Beaded and sequined jacquards, open lacy
patterns, pin tucks and updated argyles were among the popular designs shown. Frank Rejto, Faro
Disegni, Italy, was selling updated classics and tie-dyes to the home furnishings trade. Texture
with lace was another strong seller. He mentioned sparkle is going into the home, and that some of
his customers are buying Swarovski crystal-embellished designs.


Texprint 2004

The Texprint Award ceremony, which takes place annually at Indigo, was sponsored and
supported by major fashion and textile organizations including Burberry, Swarovski, the Swiss
Textile and Clothing Association, The Woolmark Co., Miroglio, and Weisbrod-Zuerrer AG. Recipients
are recent graduates of textile colleges in the United Kingdom. Judging categories are knit, color,
weave, print and breaking new ground. Top winners in each category receive cash prizes and the
opportunity to exhibit designs at Indigo and at Interstoff Asia, a twice-yearly show held in Hong
Kong for apparel fabrics and textile trends.

Along with the top five winners, 19 additional designers are given exhibition space at
Indigo. Nino Cerruti, president, Lanificio Flli. Cerruti S.p.A., Italy, presented the awards.
Cerruti said in giving the awards, “There is so much incredible innovation the young bring us.”
Yujin Jung, winner of the print design prize, said that by showing at Indigo, she is able to expose
her work to a lot of people in the industry that she wouldn’t otherwise be able to meet. She said a
designer from Los Angeles bought some of her novelty designs, embroideries and appliqués.

February 2005

Trützschler Offers Analysis Tool On TC 03 TD 03

Trützschler GmbH and Co. KG, Germany, has integrated automatic spectrogram analysis into the
machine control of its TC 03 cards and TD 03 draw frames. According to the company, the automated
function simplifies the analysis of errors in card and draw frame slivers, leading to quality
improvement, reduced downtime, higher productivity, and elimination of calculation or judgement
errors.

February 2005

Habasit Unveils Roller Top Belt Line

Switzerland-based Habasit AG has added new Roller Top belts to its line of HabasitLINK plastic
modular belts, designed to prolong equipment life and improve efficiency in transport applications.
The belts are offered in straight, radius and clip-on models.

Roller Top belts are suitable for heavy-duty container transport, and offer minimal friction and
belt wear, as well as low energy consumption, according to the company. The belts are equipped with
free-rotating rollers mounted directly on the belt rods, and are available in a range of
widths.

Roller Top radius belts offer a collapse factor of 2.2 – the lowest available in the market, the
company reports -enable space-saving, economical design of low back pressure accumulation
lines.

Clip-on Roller Top belts offer several advantages, according to Habasit, including four possible
directions of roller rotation, the highest vertical roller load in the industry and customized
assembly options, among other advantages.

February 2005

NSC Nonwoven Lines Now Include NSC Supervisor

NSC Nonwoven, France, now equips its Thibeau and Asselin nonwoven manufacturing lines with the NSC
Supervisor supervisory control assistance system. NSC Supervisor – developed by Same, a
France-based manufacturing facility operated by NSC System Solutions – centralizes all
technical parameters for the Thibeau or Asselin lines and for opening, blending, thermobonding or
other equipment in the line, allowing repeatability, traceability, production resource security and
maintenance assistance.

February 2005

February 2005


Polymer Group Inc.
, North Charleston, S.C., has relocated the headquarters of its Chicopee branded products
business to: 111 Excellence Way, Mooresville, N.C. 28115; (704) 660-6251; fax (704) 660-7333.


Meese Orbitron Dunne Co.,
Saddle Brook, N.J., has launched a website at
www.modlaundry.com to present its line of commercial
laundry products.

fabriccart

Meese Orbitron Dunne Co.’s laundry cart

Spartanburg-based

Sultex (USA) Inc.
has changed its name to

Itema America Inc.
All Sultex (USA) associates’ e-mail addresses have changed to
firstname.lastname@itemausa.com.

Chapel Hill, N.C.-based

Best Practices LLC
has made available a new supply chain white paper at its website,
www3.best-in-class.com/cr124.htm.

England-based

FESPA
, formerly known as the Federation of European Screen Printers Associations, is now
accepting entries for the FESPA 2005 Premier Awards. The awards ceremony will be held at FESPA
2005, scheduled to take place May 31 through June 4, in Munich, Germany. Entry forms are due April
29. Actual entries must be submitted between April 19 and May 20. For more information, contact
Nigel Steffens 44 1737 240788; fax 44 1737 240770; frazer.chesterman@fespa.com; www.fespa2005.com.


Service Thread Manufacturing Co.,
Laurinburg, N.C., has received ISO 9001:2000 certification.


The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
, Research Triangle Park, N.C., has expanded its test method training CD-ROM series with
the addition of a Colorfastness to Crocking program. The program includes the AATCC crockmeter
method, rotary vertical crockmeter method and textile floor coverings — AATCC crockmeter method.
AATCC also has released its 2005 technical manual, which includes 116 active test methods and eight
evaluation procedures. In other news, AATCC is now accepting abstracts for posters for its 2005
International Conference & Exhibition (IC&E), to be held October 25-27 in Boston. Deadline
for abstracts is May 6. Entries also are being accepted for the 2005 Herman and Myrtle Goldstein
Student Paper Competition, which also will take place at IC&E. For more information, visit
www.aatcc.org.

In an effort to provide visitors with answers to state-specific environmental questions, the
Fairfax, Va.-based

Specialty Graphic Imaging Association (SGIA)
now offers an interactive US map in the Environment Center on the Government Affairs Web
page at its website, www.sgia.org. SGIA also has released the results of surveys it conducted in
2004, which include an industry confidence survey, industry market survey and state-of-business
questionnaire, among others. Preliminary white papers and survey summaries are available at
www.sgia.org/snap/.

“A New World Map in Textiles and Clothing” — a book that analyzes recent developments and
challenges related to the elimination of apparel and textile quotas — is now available from the
France-based

Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development
.

The High Point, N.C.-based

International Textile Market Association
., in cooperation with the

Young Home Furnishings Professionals
, is now accepting applications for an eight-week summer internship program targeted to
college juniors and seniors. Applications are available at
www.yhfp.org.

Effective February 15, Wilmington, Del.-based

DuPont Packaging & Industrial Polymers
has increased by 10 cents per pound the price of DuPont™ Elvanol® polyvinyl alcohol.


Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG
has relocated to: Rheinpromenade Alte Freiheit 1, D-40789 Monheim, Germany.

Effective February 1,

Dow Chemical Co.
, Midland, Mich., has increased in North America the list and off-list prices of
propanol, isopropanol, propyl acetate, isopropyl acetate and Dalpad A.

The Cary, N.C.-based

Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry
and the Brussels-based

European Disposables and Nonwovens Association
have published “Worldwide Outlook for the Nonwovens Industry.” The report includes a
historical review of the industry; as well as raw material, end-use and investment projections
through 2009.

February 2005

Safety Components Forms Joint Venture In China

Safety Components International Inc., a Greenville-based automotive airbag fabric and cushions
supplier, and manufacturer of other specialty man-made fabrics, has formed a joint venture in China
through its subsidiary, ASCI Holdings Asia Pacific (DE) LLC, with Huamao (Xiamen) Technical Textile
Co., a China-based designer, producer and tester of technical fabrics. The joint venture,
Automotive Safety Components International (Changshu) Co. Ltd. (ASCI Changshu), will cut, sew and
fold airbag cushions. Majority owner Safety Components will provide technical assistance and manage
ASCI Changshus new plant, and Huamao will supply airbag fabrics from its existing operation.

“This facility is intended to partner with and support our existing customer base and fully
participate in the growing Chinese domestic market,” said John Corey, president and CEO, Safety
Components International.

February 2005

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