Huvis Licenses Ingeo™ For Korean Market

Minnetonka, Minn.-based biopolymer producer NatureWorks LLC has teamed with South Korea-based fiber
manufacturer Huvis to offer Ingeo™ branded biopolymer fiber products to the Korean market. Huvis
will offer a complete range of Ingeo staple fiber and filament products for such end-uses as
T-shirts, children’s wear, and bedding and upholstery fiberfill. The company expects Ingeo sales to
grow by 30 percent annually as end-uses grow to include apparel, activewear, home textiles,
nonwovens and automotive.

“Huvis understands the real dynamic of speciality fiber innovation and communication, making
this a natural fit, and we look forward to a strong partnership,” said Steve Davies, marketing
director, NatureWorks.

May/June 2008

Performance Fibers To Scale Back N.C. Capacity

In order to match competitive production capacity to industry and customer demand, Performance
Fibers Holdings Inc. will reduce manufacturing capacity at its Moncure and Salisbury, N.C., plants.
The timetable and the number of affected employees are still being determined.

“It is essential that our manufacturing footprint in North America aligns with the needs of
our customers and the areas where they see us as providing the most value, while also being
cost-effective and profitable long-term,” said Gregory S. Rogowski, CEO. “These decisions are very
difficult for us to make, but to remain competitive and viable, these actions are necessary, and
will make us a stronger company going forward.”

Factors playing into Performance Fibers’ reduction strategy include increased competition
from suppliers, especially in Asia; increasing energy, operating and raw material costs; and
customer restructuring.

The company will maintain current operations at its facilities in Shelby, N.C.; Winnsboro,
S.C.; and Mexico.

May/June 2008

DSM Unveils New Dyneema Purity® Biomedical Grade

The Netherlands-based DSM Dyneema has developed Dyneema Purity® TG dtex 25 TS180, a
smaller-diameter grade of the high-performance, ultrastrong polyethylene fiber for biomedical
applications that provides the same level of strength as existing grades.

Targeted for use in smaller, lower-profile biomedical implants for minimally invasive
surgical procedures that can reduce scarring and shorten recuperation times, the new ISO-certified
grade offers very high tensile strength as well as pliability, smoothness, fatigue and abrasion
resistance, and a low friction coefficient, according to the company.

“Today’s minimally invasive procedures demand new instruments, technologies and materials,
particularly thinner and smaller surgical devices and implants,” said Carina Snijder, business
manager medical. “DSM is playing an important role in developing and improving advanced materials
that allow medical device companies to develop more minimally invasive procedures. Building on our
success with Dyneema Purity in ultrastrong orthopedic implants, we are expanding our portfolio by
targeting cardiovascular applications, among others.”

May/June 2008

Award-Winning Finishing Technology


W
hat began in 1979 with an ingenious idea has developed over the years into one of the
most environmentally friendly technologies in the dyehouse sector of the textile finishing
industry. In February 2008, the reward came: Wilhelm Christ, the long-time head of technological
development at Then Maschinen GmbH, Germany, was awarded the Economic Medal of the State of
Baden-Württemberg, Germany.

Outstanding services on the part of personages, companies and other institutions to the
economy of the federal state of Baden-Württemberg can be honored with a medal that bears the
designation, “Wirtschaftsmedaille des Landes Baden-Württemberg.” It is awarded for special
professional or entrepreneurial achievements in the service of the economy of Baden-Württemberg.
All areas of economic activity should be taken into account, especially those relating to
professional training, research and development, technology, environmental protection, foreign
trade and development aid.

Ernst Pfister, the minister for trade and commerce, medium-sized companies and technology,
presented the award to Christ. Numerous prominent guests from the worlds of politics and business,
as well as from his employer paid tribute to Christ’s life work, which commenced in 1966 when he
joined Then Maschinen and eventually developed the Airflow® technology.

airflow
Air, the key element in the patented Airflow® technology, represents the ideal medium for
the transport of piece goods in jet-dyeing machines.


A Short History

Rudolf Then gathered initial experience in dyeing-machine production in his barrel- and
tub-making shop, which he opened in 1919. At that time, textiles were frequently dyed by hand in
wooden tubs, and even the growing number of mechanical dyeing machines and pieces of apparatus were
made of wood. However, as this material was a source of constant problems, Then adopted a new
approach, covering the wooden slats with a durable porcelain lining, which prevented the formation
of spots and facilitated cleaning.

Then also was one of the first people to recognize the significance of stainless steel,
which was invented at the end of the 1920s, especially with regard to its acid-resistant
properties. Unfortunately, after World War II, Then shared the fate of many Saxon industrialists as
his company was confiscated. He fled west and in 1949 founded a new firm in Schwäbisch
Hall-Hessental and commenced production in the local barrel factory belonging to Karl Kurz. Steady
growth necessitated expansion, and in 1955, Rudolf Then Färbereimaschinen GmbH was founded jointly
with Karl Kurz Hessental KG. A new plant was built on a 36,000-square-meter site in
Michelbach/Bilz. The year 1960 saw the production of the first special steel pressure vessels,
which included high-temperature winch vats and beam-dyeing equipment. In-house control systems were
integrated into this equipment as early as 1964, in order that the equipment and the increasingly
complex controls and switchgear could be supplied from a single source. This still applies today
and is one of the special features of Then machines.

As Then had no children, at the end of the 1970s, his partners gradually bought up his
holding. Following the death of company co-founder Kurz, the company passed into the hands of Kurz’s
heirs, comprised of his children and grandchildren.

christaward
Wilhelm Christ (left) receives the Economic Medal of the State of Baden-Württemberg from
Ernst Pfister, minister for trade and commerce.


New Ideas From Wilhelm Christ

Just two years after his arrival at Then in 1966, Christ developed his first dyeing machine,
which at the time was already regarded as revolutionary. This was a fully flooded, high-temperature
jet-dyeing machine designed primarily for the treatment of man-made fibers that had recently come
onto the market.

New fibers in the textile sector repeatedly demand the development of new machinery.
Accordingly, the search for solutions that would save water and energy started as early as the
mid-1970s, and Christ first developed a partially flooded jet-dyeing machine with a horizontal
fabric storage chamber, a new type of jet, as well as machines with a round storage chamber — all
of which became successfully established in the market. At the same time, Christ was working
intensively on the design of equipment for the yarn-dyeing shop and, above all, the development of
yarn dryers, where he also achieved fundamental breakthroughs.

Rethinking began in 1979, when Then developed the Airflow technology. Up to this point in
time, increasingly expensive water, which was not available everywhere in sufficient quantities,
served as the dye transportation medium. In the 1970s, a winch-dyeing machine required a massive
volume of around 150 liters to dye 1 kilogram (kg) of fabric. In addition, this water had to be
heated. It was in view of these statistics that Christ, the head of Then’s research and development
department, tackled the question of how the enormous water consumption needed for piece dyeing
could be cut, along with the accompanying energy costs.

This was impossible with the traditional machines, as they employed a bath. Even with a jet,
water remained the transport medium, and therefore, consumption was high. In 1979, work started on
the development of the Airflow technology in cooperation with Hoechst AG, Germany. As Christ
remembers, “The starting point was the ‘Rapidcolor’ process for isothermal dyeing. This was used
primarily for yarns in a creel system and we upgraded the system to our development, which meant
that following heating in a steam flow, the separately heated treatment bath was conducted into the
jet nozzle for fabric transport and was thus kept in circulation.”

thentrio
Left to right: Erwin Pfister; Wilhelm Christ; and Bill Fong, executive director, European
operations, Fong’s Industries Co. Ltd.


Initial Success: The Patent

The next task was to distribute the reduced quantities of dyestuff and additives across the
fabric evenly, which could only be achieved using an aerosol. The aerosol replaced the treatment
bath and resulted in a completely changed mass ratio. The development work now advanced at speed,
and in 1981, the fundamental Airflow patent was registered. The German inventors were Christ, Dr.
Hans-Ulrich von der Eltz, and Albert Reuther.

The European patent was registered in 1982, and use of the technology commenced
simultaneously in numerous countries around the world. A European patent was granted in 1982, and a
US patent in 1984. The machine made its public debut at the 1983 ITMA in Milan and was met with
general ridicule from the world’s experts. Nonetheless, a 10-kg-capacity machine was installed in
the Hoechst technology center, and after lengthy customer trials by Hoechst and Then, the market
breakthrough was achieved. The first Airflow machine with a 150-kg-capacity was launched as early
as 1985 and changed the previous design — with its parallel use of individual storage chambers — to
one involving the simultaneous employment of several chambers in a single autoclave.

On May 29, 1986, Christ was awarded the Egon Elöd Prize 1986 by the German Association of
Textile Chemists and Colorists. Another career highlight came on Sept. 16, 1996, with the
presentation of the Henry E. Millson Award For Invention by Frederike Kuper Jones, the president of
the American Association of Textile Chemists & Colorists.

The first autoclave-design Airflow machine made its debut at the 1991 ITMA in Hannover and
possessed the basic features of the present-day Then Airflow. If one compares the machines from
1991 with the current one, it is evident that targeted optimization of the process technology has
resulted in a massive reduction in chemical and water consumption. The most important
characteristics of the technology are time savings, cost efficiency, reliable dyeing, material
protection and reduced ecological impact.


Air, The Gentle Giant

An airflow constitutes the key element in the technology, as it represents an ideal
transport medium. The replacement of the dyebath by air as the transport medium for piece goods in
jet-dyeing machines is a patented, pioneering achievement from Then. The nozzle pressure is only
minimally lower than that in the jet nozzle used to apply the bath liquor, which secures optimum
protection of the sensitive surface of the fabric. At the same time, the employment of the mass
flow principle ensures greatly improved hank spreading, which prevents creasing.

The moisture-saturated airflow furnishes uniform temperature distribution across the fabric
and in the machine, which is a prerequisite for even and reproducible dyeing. As a result of the
low liquor content in the dyeing autoclave, the goods are lighter than in a conventional machine
and can therefore be more quickly accelerated to high speeds. The risks of draft or yarn strain are
minimal, which is of special advantage with regard to the finishing of articles containing
elastane. The actual Then-Airflow model represents the result of the interplay between all the
technical possibilities and functions, offering economic and ecological advantages, which were
unobtainable with the dyeing technology used in the past. The outstanding advantages are:

•    unlimited flexibility for all fibers except pure wool and fabrics in a
weight range of 30 to 800 grams per meter, as well as all standard dyestuffs;

•    the lowest liquor ratio on the market: man-made fibers approximately
1:2; and 1:3 to 1:4 for natural fibers, depending on the article and the fabric structure;

•    energy savings of 40 percent with a frequency inverter — air as a
transport medium instead of the water is required by all other machines;

•    a reduction in total processing time of around 25 percent;

•    the most advanced piece-dyeing machine currently on the market;

•    the competitive edge derived from extremely low processing costs; and

•    minimum water/wastewater volumes for an ideal, ecological solution.


Takeover By The Fong’s Group

At the end of 2002, Then merged with Switzerland-based Scholl Switzerland AG, which
specialized in the discontinuous wet finishing of textiles. In January 2003, joint sales commenced
under the name, Scholl-Then. However, in 2004, Scholl filed for bankruptcy, and proceedings
commenced for both the Then Maschinen- und Apparatebau GmbH and Scholl-Then GmbH in Germany. In
August 2004, a new start was made possible by an investment by the Hong Kong-based Fong’s Group.
With this investment, the former Scholl-Then GmbH was transferred into the new Then Maschinen GmbH.


A Promising Future

With a workforce of around 165 at its location in Schwäbisch Hall-Hessental, Then
manufactures dyeing machines, control systems and dyehouse networks for global markets. As a result
of a sales network with more than 80 offices in all the important international markets and a solid
business situation, the future is seen with optimism.

More than 30 of the German patents registered in Christ’s name, as well as numerous
international patents and his machine developments for Then Maschinen GmbH, form the foundation of
the company’s existence and the securing of employment for its workforce. Moreover, at the award
ceremony, the management and staff thanked Christ not just for his outstanding technical
achievements, but also for his commanding and modest manner.

May/June 2008

DyStar Launches New Dianix® Dyes

In an effort to help sportswear brands and retailers meet environmental and performance demands,
DyStar Textilfarben GmbH & Co. Deutschland KG, Germany, has added four new dyes to its Dianix®
line of disperse dyes.

Dianix Golden Yellow SF and Dianix Blue SF feature high levels of fastness when used in
ternary combinations. Dianix Navy XF-AR and Dianix Black XF-AR also have superior wetfastness
characteristics and stability in the dye bath, according to DyStar.

“These new colors will not only meet fastness requirements of the major brands, but will also
improve the productivity of their suppliers,” said Steve Barron, head of DyStar’s colors for
synthetics business. “Furthermore, considering recent changes to some Restricted Substance Lists,
these products will offer a solution and thereby help brands maintain their integrity and
differentiate their offer.”

May/June 2008

Clariant, Zhejiang Baihe To Expand Joint Venture

Clariant International Ltd., Switzerland, and Zhejiang Baihe Chemical Holding Group, China —
partners in the joint venture Hangzhou Baihe Clariant Pigments Co. Ltd. — have announced they will
expand the joint venture for the production of quinacridone specialty organic pigments. The
pigments are increasingly found in high-performance coatings used in printing, architectural,
automotive, plastics and industrial applications.

“The partnership between Baihe Chemical and Clariant has been proven very successful,” said
Chen Li Rong, chairman of Zhejiang Baihe Chemical’s Board of Directors. “So both parties have
agreed to expand our cooperation from high-performance azo organic pigments to quinacridone and
other high-performance organic pigments. At the same time, Clariant will be responsible for
marketing quinacridone and other pigments on a worldwide basis.”

The new facility will be built at Hangzhou Baihe Clariant Pigment’s current location in Hang
Zhou City, Zhejiang Province. Construction and equipment installation will begin in the fourth
quarter of this year. Production is expected to commence by the end of 2009.

May/June 2008

Monforts Offers Web-Based Service Portal

Germany-based A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG now provides an Internet-based service
portal for all new machine models featuring the Qualitex 540 and 750 PLC control systems. The new
portal, which replaces the existing telephone modem service package, uses secure Internet links
with state-of-the-art software reverse proxy technology.

A Web cam option and headphones included in the new service package enable two-way
communication between the machine operator and the Monforts engineer through firewalls, allowing
the operator to point out the problem at its location and receive a diagnosis.

Test-run setup and installation are accelerated by the voice-over Internet protocol system,
and software updates can be downloaded easily, according to Monforts. Manuals are included in the
service package, and spare parts may be ordered directly from the keyboard.

May/June 2008

Thies Unveils New Dispensing System

Germany-based Thies GmbH & Co. KG reports its new MPS Colourmatic dyestuff dispensing system
offers precise weighing, “right-first-time” benefits and reduced manpower needs.

The new system automatically transfers an empty pan to be filled upon receiving a signal to
prepare the powder dyes. The correct dye is identified using a bar code system and then is manually
or automatically weighed in a pan that holds up to 40 liters of dye. The pre-weighed pans are then
transferred robotically to a storage station until it is time to transfer them to the fully
automatic MPS-D dissolving system, after which the empty pans are cleaned, dried and returned for
use in the next weighing cycle.

May/June 2008

Lowering Energy Costs Through Innovation


T
he issue of energy savings is currently a big topic worldwide. The discussion is also
very much in vogue in the textile industry. The energy cost factor has always played a significant
role in the production of textiles. Globalization under fierce competition has resulted in low
market prices for yarns, thus lowering margins. By contrast, energy costs have experienced an
increase of approximately 50 percent over the past 10 years.

Consequences today: Those who ignore energy-efficient production will not survive in the mass
market. Concerning the future, the following applies: Energy costs will continue to climb because
fossil fuel quantities are finite. Even though new supplies continue to be discovered, development
and extraction are becoming increasingly expensive. Alternative energies, such as sun, wind, water
or regenerative sources are not yet competitive without subsidies. Their time will come, at the
latest after current energy costs have doubled. Specialists predict such a price level by the year
2020.



Energy = Costs

This simple formula allows an introduction of the topic by means of a cost analysis. When
looking at the structure of manufacturing costs for a carded yarn in the spinning mill, it soon
becomes obvious that 72 percent of the manufacturing cost is found in the spinning process
(See Figure 1). Only 28 percent of the total manufacturing cost is needed for spinning
preparation. A breakdown of the cost structures according to resources produced in the blow room
and carding, illustrated in the second chart shown in Figure 1, quickly shows the point at which
suitable energy and cost savings are the most efficient.

Page42a

Particularly in spinning preparation for cotton, the hidden energy waste must be considered
in addition to the pure energy costs. Often, part of the waste is refed, creating further energy
consumption for waste fibers. Reduced waste quantities increase the output and consequently improve
the relationship between energy input and production. Energy savings can be divided into three
areas:

•    production increase per production unit;

•    reduction of waste portion without quality loss; and

•    general innovative, energy-saving concepts.


Production Increase Per Production Unit

The simplest formula for saving energy and overall costs is the production increase per
production unit. To date, spinning preparation machines work mainly on the basis of mechanically
active principles — for example, gravity, friction, positive locking and centrifugal force. Such
machines have high idle losses. What are idle losses? When operating a textile machine without
production, the average incurred energy costs are already 60 percent, as compared to full
production capacity utilization. Increasing production definitely saves energy. For example: On two
production units, there is a 2 x 60-kilowatt (kW) no-load output plus a 2 x 40-kW pure production
output, which results in 200 kW total consumed output. If production is doubled to 1,000 kg/hr on
one unit, there is a 1 x 60-kW no-load output plus a 1 x 80-kW pure production output for a total
consumed output of 140 kW. In this case, energy savings of 30 percent are achieved
(See Figure 2). This simple formula is well-known by machinery and textile manufacturers;
nevertheless, it is not a great innovation. The enormous challenge lies in the development of
methods to increase production without losing quality and energy efficiency.


Reduction Of Waste

Portion Without Quality Loss

With regard to the data shown in Figure 1 and the distribution of costs for resources in
spinning preparation, it quickly becomes evident that the resource waste becomes more and more
important, and thus accounts for a significant share of the manufacturing costs. To prevent a loss
of quality, cleaning elements are intensified, particularly by increasing production. Germany-based
Trützschler GmbH & Co. KG has applied intelligent solutions to its products to help reduce
energy waste while maintaining quality.

Waste control in the blow room: For the roll cleaners CL-C1, CL-C3 and CL-C4, Trützschler
offers Wastecontrol for the blow room. A sensor checks the waste quality and automatically decides
the setting of the separation point. Depending on material and production size, the amount of
separated waste is only as much as necessary for efficient cleaning. In practice, Wastecontrol
quickly results in savings of $50,000 per cleaning unit per year without any loss of quality.

Waste control at the card: The card offers the highest degree of cleaning in the cotton
spinning process. Intensive cleaning results in high amounts of wasted energy. Every specialist
knows that a decrease in production causes an increase in relative waste
(See Figure 3). The reason for this is the approximately constant absolute waste quantity,
independent of production. To conserve energy, a large working width is considered critical. If a
production gain is achieved corresponding to working width, then the relative waste quantity
remains constant. If the production gain is less, more relative waste is separated.

Carding concepts in the market have 1- or 1.5-meter working widths and are operated in
spinning mills with similar outputs per production unit. Principally, on a machine with 1-meter
width, fewer good fibers are separated because of the higher production ratio per meter; therefore,
this concept offers higher resource conservation.

Page43


General Innovative, Energy-Saving Concepts

Innovative concepts and intelligent components can reduce energy consumption, independent of
production size.

Only as much air as actually needed in the blow room: Trützschler’s Airflow Control is
already state-of-the-art. In the bale breaker process, air quantities are kept constant during
continuously changing suction lengths, thus lowering the average transport air quantity and
reducing the costs for disposal of dust-laden air
(See Figure 4).

Waste suction: When looking at cards and comparing a 20-year-old model to a current model, it
becomes evident that between 1988 and 2008, the energy consumption of just the disposal air
quantity alone has been reduced by more than 50 percent
(See Figure 5). In this case, the customer benefits from the increased productivity as
well, though also from intelligent individual measures. All air-carrying elements on a Trützschler
machine are optimized
(See Figure 6). By adjusting the cross sections of flow by means of finite element
calculation for example, it has been possible to reduce the negative suction pressure within the
last 20 years from 1,200 to 700 Pascals.

Page44a

Drive Technology: Direct current technology is definitely a thing of the past for
market-leading machine manufacturers. Today, modern machines with speed-constant parts are driven
by asynchronous technology; and machines with speed-changing drives, alternately by synchronous
servo technology or asynchronous frequency control.

When comparing these technologies in reference to energy consumption, the following must be
stated: The supplier’s information concerning energy efficiency of drive systems always is in
relation to nominal loads at nominal speeds. When values drop below these levels, each drive system
loses efficiency and, in turn, energy efficiency to a greater or lesser extent. This means
operating a drive system at full load saves energy. But this also means that the popular approach
of integrating safety and power reserves in a drive concept uses only unnecessary energy. The ratio
of installed output to actual input, therefore, should be as close as possible. The efficiency of
the alternating current drive in particular is on a significant lower level compared to an A/S
synchronous drive
(See Figure 7).

Page44b

Thus, for speed-changing drives, Trützschler decided more than 15 years ago in favor of servo
technology, which offers good efficiency at varying maximum speeds. Even though today’s
developments, for reasons of comfort and control, often use a frequency converter to enable a speed
change by means of control input, and not by exchange of a belt pulley, it must be noted that this
comfort is at the expense of additional energy. This, among other things, is made clear by the fact
that in addition to the actual asynchronous motor, which should be driven in a speed-changing
manner, a control unit corresponding to the output must be installed. On this control unit, the
additional energy consumption is only noticeable in the form of heat generation.

 

The future belongs to those textile manufacturers that currently intensively deal with the
energy cost factor. The same applies to the machine manufacturer who is expected to develop
energy-efficient technologies and make them available to the market.


Editor’s Note: This article was written by Armin Leder, Trützschler GmbH & Co. KG.

May/June 2008

SCITC Offers Full Agenda In Charleston


T
he


Textile World
2007 Ports Survey
, produced in conjunction with PIERS Global Intelligence Solutions, a
division of East Windsor, N.J.-based Commonwealth Business Media Inc., confirmed the significant
textile products traffic flowing through US seaports. The study’s best estimate is that 2.54
million 20-foot-equivalent units (TEUs) — a standard quantity measure used in international
shipping — of total textile-related imports and exports moved through US seaports in 2006. These
shipments had an estimated value of $182.3 billion.

As one might guess, apparel traffic led the way, representing 62.7 percent of the total
estimated value of textile traffic. Fabric scored second, followed by home furnishings, fiber and
yarn, followed closely by floor covering.

scitc
Completed in 1879, Charleston’s United States Custom House is one of the most recognized
landmarks in the city and a testament to the city’s long history with seaport-based trade. The
building continues to function as originally intended even with a new Federal building established
in the 1960s.

The good news for the domestic textile industry is that fabric as well as fiber and yarn were
net exports in terms of TEUs. Imports dominated the apparel, home furnishings and floor covering
categories, while textile machinery and parts was also a net import category, by more than two to
one in both TEUs and dollars.


With economic conditions led by a weakening US dollar, the recent reports of container
shortages bogging down US exports is an impediment the US textile industry doesn’t need. The 35th
Annual South Carolina International Trade Conference (SCITC) — to be held Tuesday, May 27, through
Thursday May 29, at Charleston Place, Charleston, S.C. — will present some interesting
opportunities to get the inside track from a cross-section of shipping and logistics professionals
about this and other issues facing the industry.


Best Practices

Ron Reighter, vice president, global trade solutions, SunTrust Bank, will moderate education
sessions featuring international trade best practices. Topics include technology for international
process improvement, international financial transactions, managing global shipping risk and
marketing in a global economy.

William Armbruster, editor, Shipping Digest, will moderate sessions on Foreign Investment in
Trade Facilities, including one titled “The Impact of Infrastructure on Container Port Operations.”

Commissioner Harold J. Creel Jr., Federal Maritime Commission, will present the keynote
address. A transportation forum will feature Jeff Heller, Norfolk Southern Intermodal; Greg
Plemmons, vice president OD Global, Old Dominion Freight Lines; Rick Wen, vice president, business
development, Orient Overseas Container Line Ltd., Ocean Carrier; and Scott Szwast, director of
marketing, International Freight, UPS.

For a full agenda and additional information, visit
www.scitc.org.

May/June 2008

Sponsors