Picanol’s OptiMax Can Be Fitted With Modular Systems

Belgium-based Picanol NV’s flexible OptiMax rapier machine features a modular design. Therefore,
functional groups on the machine are completely separate both electrically and mechanically. One
functional group can be exchanged for another without having to modify or rewire the machine.
Functional groups are easily changed, such as from dobby to jacquard or from single beam to split
beam, as may be necessary to handle sudden changes in demand.

For high-speed leno weaving the OptiMax can be equipped with an OptiLeno module. To convert
the machine to cam box operation, the module is removed and can be stored for later use. It takes
about four hours to convert the machine as well as to put the module back into operation, according
to Picanol.

The company reports the conversion option is a convenient solution for weavers who do not use
the high-speed leno system year-round. Whereas the traditional leno system, based on leno heddles,
is also very easy to change, it does not offer the OptiLeno’s high-speed potential. Before the
OptiLeno option became available, some weavers may have refused leno orders because the traditional
production speed was less than half that of their other style. OptiLeno is used mainly to produce
open fabrics made with multifilament, polypropylene tape, monofilament or glass fiber. Picanol has
delivered the first modular OptiLeno installation for fine E-glass styling, ranging from 34 to 300
Tex. The module can be stored with the warp ends still drawn in the module, enabling faster
start-ups when it is refitted on the machine.

February 16, 2010

Early Detection Of Tramp Metal Keeps Clark Felt’s Carding Machine Running Smoothly


W
ith thousands of looming needles used in the process, tramp metal is inevitable in
textile processing operations. Undetected, these pieces will damage equipment, causing expensive
downtime and product contamination.

That was the situation at Beaumont, Texas-based Clark Felt Co. The manufacturer of high loft
nonwoven material — including cotton, man-made-fiber and fire-retardant batting — was
experiencing frequent shutdowns of its carding machine because of metal entering the unit without
detection.

“We process fiber for use in mattresses and padding and cushioning materials for the
furniture industry,” explained Joe Ramirez, process manager, Clark Felt. “Our carding machine is an
important part of our process.”

The carding machine completes the cleaning of the fibers and arranges the fibers into a web
so that they are mostly parallel. By the time the tramp metal was discovered by workers, damage had
been done to the cylinder wire on the card, according to Ramirez.

The company had hoped that magnets would eliminate the metal contamination. Unfortunately,
they didn’t quite do the trick. “We had problems with metal contamination eluding magnets
previously installed in the system,” Ramirez said. “Sometimes a sideplate would fall off from a
piece of chain or we would get other metal in the fibers.”

“Once the metal passed through the magnets and was not rejected, we couldn’t tell we had a
problem until the metal destroyed the cylinder wire,” Ramirez explained. “We were also relying on
electric current passing through feed rolls of the carding machine. When metal contacted both feed
rolls, it was supposed to create a short circuit and trip the relay,” he continued.

However, metal was still passing through, causing the malfunction in the cylinder wire. Each
occurrence cost $20,000 to $25,000 to fix the problem, so Clark Felt decided to seek an alternative
solution, according to Ramirez.

eriez
The Eriez® E-Z Tec® Metal Detector


Detecting Metal With E-Z Tec

In the textile industry, metal can enter the production process with the raw material or can
get into the product because of wear or failure of processing equipment components. Detecting these
prevents major damage and equipment downtime, thus increasing productivity.

To help resolve its metal contamination problem, Clark Felt installed an E-Z Tec Metal
Detector with 10-inch-high by 102-inch-wide aperture and special anti-static slider bed 
manufactured by Erie, Pa.-based Eriez®, a supplier of advanced technology for magnetic, vibratory
and inspection applications.

Cotton and polyester nonwovens are static-supporting, which is known to cause false trips in
metal detectors. E-Z Tec is equipped with a specialized electronic mode that ignores the high
voltage charge. This feature enables the E-Z Tec to ignore the unipolar static charge and look for
the bipolar signal generated by metal.

“Now, the fiber is passed through the aperture prior to entering the carding machine,
stopping the feed conveyor if metal is detected,” Ramirez explained. “Since we installed the Eriez
detector in 2004, we have not had a single occurrence of metal contamination causing damage to the
card. The Eriez Metal Detector has paid for itself several times over the last five years,” he
commented.

“This was a difficult installation with very limited space and lots of moving parts and
vibration,” Ramirez recalled. “The durability of the system is, without question, more than we
could have expected. The metal detector was struck by a cylinder on one occasion, causing very
obvious cosmetic damage, but the effectiveness was unchanged.”


How It Works

The E-Z Tec Metal Detector uses three coils wound around the aperture to sense metal moving
through it. The center coil emits an electromagnetic field throughout the space within the metal
detector housing. Two receiver coils (placed equidistant on either side of the center coil) are
connected in series so that the energy coupled from the center coil to either of the receiver coils
exactly cancels the energy coupled to the other receiver coil; the net output of this pair is
essentially zero.

Metal passing through this set of coils creates an imbalance which, if the signal’s amplitude
is great enough, will result in detection. The metal detector can be set for a certain degree of
sensitivity. Many factors influence the sensitivity, including characteristics of the product being
screened, type and shape of metal to be detected, aperture dimensions, and the position of the
metal particle within the aperture.

“The Eriez Metal Detector actively seeks metal instead of passively waiting for a condition
to be met,” Ramirez said. “This has totally eliminated metal passing through our carding machine,
reducing downtime and costly cylinder wire replacement. We expect the detector to last 15 to 20
years.”   

Editor’s Note: This article was provided to
Textile World by Eriez. For more information, contact +888- 300-ERIEZ (3743)
within the United States and Canada;
eriez@eriez.com;
www.eriez.com.

February 16, 2010

Textiles And Apparel Will Play Key Role In Haiti Recovery

As the massive relief efforts in Haiti move forward, U.S. textile and apparel manufacturers and
retailers will be playing a major role in that nation’s immediate and long-range recovery.

Prior to the devastating January 12th earthquake, apparel manufacturing was one of Haiti’s
most important industries, employing some 25,000 workers and accounting for more than
three-quarters of the nation’s export earnings, with 82 percent of the exports going to the United
States. The National Retail Federation (NRF) estimates that as a result of the earthquake, Haiti’s
apparel industry is operating at only 50 percent, and it expects it will take several weeks for
repairs and water and electricity to be restored and pave the way for a gradual restoration of
production. As an example of the extent of the problem, NRF said a T-shirt plant that employed 500
workers was destroyed and all of its workers were killed.

In an effort to support the relief effort and long-term assistance, the American Apparel and
Footwear Association (AAFA) has created a Haiti-AAFA Recovery and Reconstruction Team (HARRT) to
assess recovery needs and help with reconstruction planning. AAFA says the mission of HARRT is to
ensure the apparel and footwear industries “play a responsible and proactive role in Haiti’s
overall recovery.” The recovery task force will assist the Haitian apparel and footwear industry in
addressing infrastructure problems, factory capacity levels, workforce training and sourcing
patterns.

HARRT Steering Committee Co-chairman Rick Helfenbein, president of Englewood Cliffs,
N.J.-based TellaS Ltd., a division of Hong Kong-based Luen Thai, said the U.S. apparel industry has
a long partnership with Haiti and is “ready to be a cornerstone of Haiti reconstruction.” HAART
Steering Committee Co-chairman Jerry Cook, senior vice president of government and trade for
Winston-Salem, N.C.-based Hanesbrands Inc., said: “We must do everything we can to help rebuild
this industry that has positively contributed to Haiti’s economy. We have our work cut out for us
as we get started making sure growth is sustainable and continues into the future.”

Since 2006, apparel trade with Haiti has been governed by the Haitian Hemispheric Opportunity
through Partnership Encouragement Act (HOPE), which created special trade rules giving preferential
treatment to U.S. imports of Haitian apparel, provided the exports met specific rules of origin
that placed emphasis on yarn and fabric inputs from the United States and Caribbean nations. In
2008, HOPE II was enacted, extending the HOPE Act for 10 years and broadening coverage to include
more apparel, particularly knit products. Essentially, HOPE II gives duty-free treatment to apparel
using U.S. yarn and fabric, but for every three garments using U.S. inputs, one garment may be made
from non-U.S. yarn and fabric. U.S. textile and apparel manufacturers have supported HOPE II.

On February 2,  Sens. Ron Wyden, D-Ore., and Bill Nelson, D-Fla., introduced the
Renewing Hope for Haiti Act, which extends the expiration dates for two trade preference acts
benefiting Haiti and calls for other measures to facilitate trade. It would extend the Caribbean
Basin Trade Partnership Act that allows Haiti and other participating countries to export qualified
apparel duty-free into the United States through Sept. 18, 2013 rather than letting it expire this
October, as is currently scheduled. The deadline for expiration of HOPE II would be extended
through 2022 rather than 2018. In addition, the Wyden-Nelson bill would require U.S. Customs and
Border Patrol to establish a presence in Haiti in order to offer commercial assistance and help
facilitate trade among Haiti, the neighboring Dominican Republic and the United States. The measure
would establish a Haiti Recovery and Investment Task Force led by the Secretary of the Treasury
that would identify and help remove barriers to trade.

In introducing the measure, Wyden said: “The millions of dollars flowing into Haiti now are
essential to addressing the immediate crisis, but Haiti’s long-term survival depends on immediate
steps being taken to protect its economic future. By renewing pro-Haitian provisions in U.S. trade
law, streamlining Customs processes and opening up avenues for foreign investment, the U.S. can
have a significant impact on this fragile economy and restore a much-needed sense of normalcy.”

NRF, AAFA and the National Council of Textile Organizations all support the Wyden- Nelson
bill. Rep. Charles B. Rangel, D-N.Y., chairman of the House Committee on Ways and Means, has been a
long-time supporter of preferential trade and aid for Haiti, so the  Wyden-Nelson bill could
receive swift action.

Commenting on the overall Haiti recovery situation, Eric Autor, NRF’s vice-president and
international trade counsel, said: “Haiti is a growing source of apparel for U.S. retailers, and at
the same time U.S. stores are a market that has played a major role in building up the Haitian
economy. It is more important than ever that this two-way relationship be continued and expanded.
The legislation will put Haitians back to work at a crucial time, and will help provide long-term
markets for their products that will help build the foundation for economic prosperity and
political stability.

February 9, 2010

China Will Resist Pressure On Currency Issue

President Barack Obama has weighed in on unfair international trade practices, saying they cannot
be used to give other countries government-subsidized trade advantages. At a meeting with the
Senate Democratic Policy Committee, the president said, “We must get much tougher about enforcement
of existing trade rules, putting constant pressure on China and other countries to open their
markets in reciprocal ways.”

Obama specifically mentioned currency manipulation, saying, “One of the challenges that we’ve
got to get much tougher about is currency rates and how they match up to make sure that our goods
are not artificially inflated and their goods are not artificially deflated in price.” He said such
actions place the United States at “a huge competitive disadvantage.”

The Chinese government quickly responded with government spokesperson Ma Zhaoxu saying China
does not seek a trade surplus with the United States and that “wrongful accusations and pressure
will not help solve the issue.” He went on to say that even if the currency’s value rises, it is
China’s “own business and China will not appreciate the yuan in accordance with the U.S. demand.”
An economist with the Ministry of Commerce said that even if China’s exchange rate is revalued,
U.S. importers would look to other low-cost countries for their products.

A number of economists and U.S. manufacturers estimate that the yuan is undervalued by 25 to
40 percent against the dollar and other currencies. This makes China’s exports cheaper and imports
more expensive.

At a Senate hearing following Obama’s comments, Sen. Charles Grassley, R-Iowa, the ranking
Republican member of the Senate Finance Committee, urged the Obama administration to label China a
currency manipulator, a step the administration has been reluctant to take, opting instead to rely
on diplomatic negotiations. Saying he has given the administration the “benefit of the doubt on
diplomatic efforts, but so far that has not produced any results,” Grassley said it is time to
label China a currency manipulator and impose U.S. trade law remedies.

“This Administration can cite China as currency manipulator,” Grassley said. “Secretary of
the Treasury [Timothy] Geithner already acknowledged as much during his confirmation proceedings.
Maybe that will get China’s attention and lead to a more level playing field.”

With Congress and the administration embarked on a mission to create more jobs at home, the
Chinese trade deficit and the currency manipulation increasingly could become priority issues.

February 9, 2010

Jacob Holm Commissions Idrosistem Filtration System

Italy-based Idrosistem Energy Srl — a developer of water treatment and recovery systems for
spunlace lines — has announced that Jacob Holm Industries GmbH — a Switzerland-based manufacturer
of spunlaced and composite nonwoven roll goods for the hygiene, baby and adult care, cosmetic,
household, industrial wipe, automotive, packaging and technical nonwovens markets — has
commissioned a new, upgraded Idrosistem water filtration system at its production center in France.

“The results of this filtration plant, in terms of bacteria reduction and water quality, are
beyond our expectations,” said Saverio Trevisan, president, Idrosistem. “The bacteria level is so
low that from this point of view the filtered water is comparable to the drinkable one. The process
is composed by a combination of ozone and [ultraviolet subtype C] sterilization that avoids any use
of biocide in the water loop. We can say that this plant is really the ‘best in class’ among our
more than 50 spunlace water filtration lines.”

“This investment reflects Jacob Holm’s commitment to developing a new range of sustainable
products targeting both existing and new markets,” said Stephen Landon, president and COO, Jacob
Holm.

February 9, 2010

Trützschler Acquires John D Hollingsworth On Wheels’ US Business

Trützschler GmbH & Co. KG, Germany — represented by Charlotte-based American Truetzschler Inc.
and Trützschler Card Clothing (TCC) — has acquired all production facilities, patents, and
copyrights of John D. Hollingsworth on Wheels Inc. (HOW) — a Greenville-based designer,
manufacturer, servicer and tester of textile equipment, which shuttered its operations on Dec. 30,
2009. Founded in the late 1800s, HOW closed its doors as a result of the impacts of the U.S.
textile industry’s continued decline
(See ”
John
D. Hollingsworth To Shutter Operations
,” Nov. 3, 2009)
.

The takeover will enable TCC to continue HOW’s production at its existing facilities. TCC,
founded in 2003, manufactures a full range of card and roller card clothings for the spinning and
nonwovens industries. The company has introduced new manufacturing processes with integrated
in-process quality controls and runs a global service network.

HOW specialists have joined Trützschler’s U.S. sales and marketing team and American
Truetzschler’s field service.

In 2003, Trützschler acquired all of HOW’s activities outside the United States and Canada,
including production facilities in Brazil, Mexico and Germany, as well as HOW’s European service
stations. Those activities operated under the name Trützschler Hollingsworth Card Clothing and
Service, while HOW continued production for its U.S. and Canadian operations at its Greenville
headquarters.



February 9, 2010

Rieter Delivers 3,000th India-bound RSB/SB Series Drawframe

With the recent delivery of a RSB-D 221 double-head autoleveler drawframe to a customer in India,
Switzerland-based Rieter Textile Systems has delivered a total of 3,000 RSB/SB series drawframes to
companies in that country.

The RSB-D 221 — manufactured in Rieter’s plant near Pune, India — was sold to
Coimbatore-based KKP Textile Ltd., a spinner of high-quality combed and carded cotton yarns in
counts ranging from Ne 10 to 40 using 78,000 ring spindles and 1,080 rotors. KKP Factory Manager
Ellappan Rajavel was presented with an engraved golden plate bearing the words “3000th RSB in
India” by Jürgen Müller, product manager, drawframes, of Germany-based Rieter Ingolstadt GmbH.

The new space- and energy-saving drawframe, featuring two independent machine sides that can
be set to operate at two different speeds with two different roller distances and drafts, offers a
maximum delivery speed of 2 x 1,100 meters per minute, with production quality and output
equivalent to those of the RSB-D 40 single-head drawframe, according to Rieter. KKP Textiles is
processing carded cotton in one head of the RSB-D 221 and combed cotton in the other. The company
reports the drawframe’s productivity is 30-percent higher than other locally available autoleveler
drawframes.

February 9, 2010

Cotton Incorporated Introduces Cotton Expedite™

Cotton Incorporated — the Cary, N.C.-based research and marketing company representing U.S. upland
cotton and cotton importers — has introduced Cotton Expedite™, a solution from its Cotton
Management System™ and the first software to offer cotton merchants and co-ops a complete solution
for contract management, logistics control, reporting and other process flow needs. 

“Business today is a global proposition, increasingly reliant on electronic systems and 24/7
operations, and the cotton industry is no exception,” said Kirk Andrews, associate director of
program development, Cotton Incorporated. “That is why we developed this tool to help cotton
merchants and co-ops streamline their processes.”

Cotton Expedite enables merchants and co-ops to control and track cotton from purchase
through delivery. It is able to link electronic documents and databases as well as logistics and
inventory retrieval systems to coordinate data. The software has a built-in document management
feature and can be implemented into a business’s freight forwarder. Reference and reporting tools
include mix selection, inventory filters, rate and tariff management, and stock collateral
management, among others. Cotton Incorporated reports the software is scalable and is suitable for
both smaller-scale and enterprise-scale logistics management. 

February 9, 2010

FTC Warns 78 Retailers On Bamboo Mislabeling

The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has sent letters to 78 U.S. companies, warning they may be
breaking the law by labeling and advertising rayon fiber clothing and other textile products as
“bamboo.” In the letters, the FTC warns that in order to avoid action by the commission, the
companies should review labeling and advertising for textile products they are selling and remove
or correct any misleading bamboo.

The FTC points out that rayon, a man-made fiber created from cellulose found in plants and
trees, is processed using harsh chemicals that emit hazardous air pollution. The letter states,
“Rayon, even if manufactured using cellulose from bamboo, must be described using an appropriate
term recognized under the FTC’s Textile Rules. … Failing to properly label and advertise textiles
misleads consumers and runs afoul of both the Textile Rules and the FTC Act.”

“We need to make sure companies use proper labeling and advertising in their efforts to
appeal to environmentally conscious consumers,” said David C. Vladeck, director of the agency’s
Bureau of Consumer Protection. “Rayon is rayon, even if bamboo has been used somewhere along the
line in the manufacturing process.”

In addition to the warning letters, the FTC sent each company a summary of decisions finding
that failure to use proper fiber names in textile labeling and advertising is deceptive and
violates the FTC Act, under which it can seek civil penalties of up to $16,000 per violation
against any company that receives the warning information but does not correct advertising and
labeling. The complete list of companies receiving warning letters, as well as other bamboo-related
FTC materials, can be found on the FTC’s website at
www.ftc.gov/bamboo



February 9, 2010

Invista Unveils Cordura® Denim Fabric

Wichita, Kan.-based Invista, a global integrated fibers and polymers manufacturer, has debuted
Cordura® denim fabric containing a blend of 88-percent Invista™ T420 nylon 6,6 fiber and 12-percent
cotton. Cordura denim offers the look, feel and comfort of traditional 100-percent cotton denim but
is more durable, lasting 50- to 60-percent longer when industrial laundered, and also is three
times more abrasion-resistant, Invista reports.

Artistic Milliners (Pvt.) Ltd., a vertically integrated textile company based in Pakistan,
will produce Cordura denim fabric for use in full garments, which soon will be available in the
United States.

February 9, 2010

Sponsors