One of the astonishing things at the recent ITMA Asia + CITME was the fact that none of the big
chemical companies showed up in Shanghai, including Huntsman Textile Effects (TE).

Textile World
approached Huntsman’s new Singapore headquarters to ask some questions. Rohit Aggarwal,
global vice president, Strategic Marketing and Planning, replied.

Rohit Aggarwal

TW
: The big issue for Huntsman TE was the fact that jobs in Europe and the United States were
cut. What are the main reasons for this move?


Rohit Aggarwal
: We operate in a highly competitive environment with increasing raw material costs, so as a
global business, we can only remain cost-competitive with the right cost structure in our
operations. The Textile Effects global landscape has changed, and, like any business, we need to
constantly evaluate and adapt our strategy to ensure that we are able to compete at a global level
and build a sustainable business for the long term. Over the last two years, we have been operating
in an environment where many companies are exiting Europe to streamline their global businesses.

We must continue to focus on optimizing our business process to ensure we continue to
respond globally to market opportunities and see sustained growth.

The Markets



TW
: How do you see the current market situation?


Aggarwal
: Asia is the world’s largest market for textile chemicals, and, over a number of years,
there has been a steady shift from the West to the emerging markets of Asia by the producers and
biggest buyers of dyes and chemicals. As the population increases and with the rise of the middle
classes in China and India, we expect to see an increase in the demand for textile effects. Quality
and safety will continue to be the core values, coupled with shorter delivery times.

We also expect to see a rise in local brands coming onto the market, which is where Huntsman
TE can really play a significant advisory role to help those brands develop innovative products to
enable them to compete in the global market.

Environmental challenges including water and gas shortages in countries like India and
Bangladesh bring a great opportunity for Huntsman TE to drive innovative solutions to minimize
those environmental issues.




TW
: Which markets are important for you?


Aggarwal
: All the markets have their uniqueness, and we pride ourselves in delivering a personalized,
total-solutions service across all areas of the manufacturing process to each of our customers
wherever they are. In regards to Huntsman TE’s global 2010 revenue, 23 percent was from America, 27
percent from Europe and the remaining 50 percent from Asia Pacific. By 2015, we see India and China
as key markets, followed by Brazil, Indonesia and Vietnam. South Korea, the Philippines, Pakistan
and Bangladesh are also developing markets to watch over the next five years.

The textile sector in India is growing at approximately 8 percent per year, and it is
anticipated to reach $110 billion by 2015 with an export value of $45 billion.

TW
: What do you see as advantages or strengths in the Chinese market?


Aggarwal
: In China, the textile industry accounts for a 30- to 35-percent share of Asia’s textile
industry and 25 percent in the global market. In 2010, China’s textile and apparel exports
increased by 23.6 percent over the previous year.

Research And Development



TW
: What percentage do you spend on R&D relative to turnover?


Aggarwal
: R&D is the lifeblood of TE and should be for any business that wishes to stay
competitive. Huntsman TE currently spends about 5 percent of its total sales earnings on R&D.

TW
: What are your R&D priorities?


Aggarwal
: Sustainability issues, especially water and energy consumption, will increasingly impact
both mill and consumer buying decisions. More than one billion urban residents will face serious
water shortages by 2050 as climate change worsens the effects of urbanization, with Indian cities
among the worst-hit. By mid-century, some 993 million city dwellers will live with less than 100
liters (26 gallons) per day of water each — roughly the amount that fills a personal bathtub —
which is considered the daily minimum. An additional 100 million people will lack what they need
for drinking, cooking, cleaning, bathing and toilet use.

Overcapacity and migration to Asia will put pressure on prices in mature dye and chemical
technologies. And, the importance of biotechnology in industrial chemical innovation will increase,
and oil-based technology will decline.

Huntsman Textile Effects spends about 5 percent of its total sales earnings on R&D.
Priorities include sustainability issues, especially water and energy consumption.

Trends



TW
: Can you explain some of the current fashion trends?


Aggarwal
: Performance and convenience — garments that look new after 20 washes and don’t require
ironing; colorfastness; and comfort. Then, innovative solutions, with improved performance and
higher productivity, that at the same time bring significant water, energy and operating cost
savings. A very important issue is an environmentally friendly protection technology — a new
generation of polyester flame retardant that is free of halogen, antimony and formaldehyde. Fabric
enhancements with silicone softeners for all end products like knit apparel, shirts, and
bottomweights are also important.

TW
: Where is the focus in retail?


Aggarwal
: Major retailers are increasingly concerned about substances of very high concern (SVHCs),
one of the criteria being scientific evidence of probable serious effects to human health or
environment. Many major retailers – including H&M, Marks & Spencer and Hugo Boss — are
adding SVHCs to their own restricted substance lists to ensure that SVHCs do not exist in the goods
nor are used in their manufacturing process. The health risk for workers exposed to SVHCs is not in
line with the ethical values. Thereby, suppliers are seriously scrutinized even in cases where the
concentration limits are not reached. The commercial pressure is also steadily growing and having a
greater impact than compliance.

TW
: What do you expect in 2013?


Aggarwal
: Raw material, labor, land and energy costs have already doubled in the last couple of
years. With growing wealth, consumers are not going to be satisfied with basics, but will be
looking for more luxury. In our specific market, fashion, quality and brand names will be the
trend.

Cotton prices look set to increase until the end of the year, which will impact supply and
demand. The sharp rise of cotton prices has also made textile manufacturers shift their focus to
ramping up polyester yarn production capacity. The fall in cotton production over the years has
also driven the use of polyester by the textile sector.

Sustainability Above All



TW
: What are the main requirements from your global customers in the next few years?


Aggarwal
: Sustainability and environmental excellence are critical focal areas — Huntsman TE is
committed to lead as an environmental solutions provider developing a range of technologies that
help reduce the impact of manufacturing on the environment and help reduce overall costs.
Competition will emerge between domestic and international brands, and the path of survival will
revolve around endless innovation, leapfrogging the market.

Sustainability is important for the long-term future of the industry, and for our customers
in India and China, who, for example, need to meet new local legislation on water and energy
saving. As prices escalate, pollution increases and concern for the environment grows, converters,
retailers, brand houses and consumers all over the globe are clamoring for higher sustainability.

We are living sustainability through comprehensive product stewardship, which is an
integrated process for identifying, managing and minimizing environmental, health and safety (EHS)
impacts at every stage of a product’s life cycle. With our forward thinking in EHS philosophy, we
are already on top of the environmental legislation (REACH [Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation
and Restriction of Chemical Substances] in Europe, for example).

We constantly strive to reduce resource consumption and waste in our manufacturing processes
for dyes and chemicals. Decades of innovation have also led to the creation of shorter processes
that consistently produce the right results the first time, thereby minimizing energy and water
consumption, as well as minimizing waste, in textile processing.

TW
: How do you achieve all that?


Aggarwal
: We were the first dye maker worldwide to operate a plant to the ISO 14001 EHS standard, are
a founding member of bluesign®, and operate a responsible-care product stewardship whereby we track
all of our products and provide ongoing help and support to customers in their safe handling and
use of our products.

Textile Effects has been actively involved in developing the bluesign standard from the
outset. Huntsman places high value on practicing product stewardship in a fully integrated manner.
This starts with the approach to innovation of processing solutions as well as effect ingredients
and continues through to the disposal of the final textile article. We see the concept of
sustainability as the interdependence of ecological responsibility, economic development and social
responsibility. The bluesign standard represents the ideal platform to ensure a proper balance of
these different criteria, and serves as a compass through the complex textile value chain, ensuring
that in the end, the consumer can expect safe and quality textile products.

Huntsman Textile Effects is one of the founding members of the Sustainable Apparel
Coalition, working with the industry to reduce emissions and harmful substances in the
manufacturing and supply chain process.

TW
: You are considered to be a market leader in your business area. What would you do to keep
this position?


Aggarwal
: At Huntsman, we focus on three main targets: to provide cost-efficient technical processes
and solutions that are sustainable and support the local environment; to deliver high-quality,
innovative goods backed by our product stewardship commitment; and to expand our ability to serve
the local market with a fast and flexible response.

TW
: How would you control that situation?


Aggarwal
: Well, we may not be in a position to control raw material prices, but TE can combat price
explosions with innovative solutions. In addition, we help cut costs and shorten lead times by
locating our formulation and distribution centers (FDCs) close to our key customers so that we can
be flexible to deliver what they want as quickly and efficiently as possible.

Recently, we announced a new distribution center in Qingdao, China. Karachi, Pakistan was
opened in 2011. The close proximity allows us to meet customers’ needs as quickly and efficiently
as possible. It also enables us to utilize local raw materials wherever possible to save freight
costs and not incur duties.

TW
: What are the biggest challenges?


Aggarwal
: One such challenge includes tighter rules for manufacturers in regards to energy savings.

This is not a challenge for us as we recognized this need well ahead of these regulations.
Textile processing is the world’s second-most water-intensive industry. By 2030, China, together
with India, Brazil and South Africa, will be responsible for 30 percent of the world’s gross
domestic product and 43 percent of the world’s water demand. It is imperative that we work together
at all stages of the manufacturing chain to develop and adopt innovative technology and offer real
solutions — not just in terms of cost savings and product quality, but also in terms of providing
long-term sustainability and commitment to environmental performance.

We strongly urge everyone, all stakeholders in the textile chain — dye and chemical
suppliers, mills, brands and retailers — to work together for the future of the planet. We need
innovative products and processes; the highest standards in product stewardship; cooperation with
machine manufacturers and fiber producers, dyehouse auditing; and, not least, communication
throughout the textile chain. Those involved at each and every stage in the textile chain need to
take responsibility, implement change and spread the word.

July/August 2012

So, what is 3-D weaving? The term “three-dimensional weaving,” or “3-D weaving,” has been bantered
about correctly, incorrectly and rather loosely over the years for one textile structure variation
or another — just about everything from woven baskets to highly complex near net-shape preforms.
Manufacturers from diverse textile industry segments use the term to describe their respective
products such as spacer fabrics, geotextiles, surgical implants, webbings, conveyor belts and more.
Of course, if you happen to know a physicist or a fussy materials engineer, (s)he will kindly
inform you that every textile fabric, or pretty much any structure, for that matter, must have
three dimensions. And, as everyone has learned along the way, those three dimensions are most
commonly referred to as length, width and height — or depth.

In today’s technical textiles marketplace, when people mention 3-D weaving or 3-D fabrics,
they usually are referring to a growing category of products used primarily in highly
performance-driven composite applications. Such applications range from jet engine components and
engineered shapes to composite billets for bulkheads and ballistic armor panels. The attraction and
interest in 3-D woven products specifically for composite applications stems from the following
attributes:

• design flexibility and versatility;
• inherent resistance to delamination;
• improved damage tolerance;
• ability to tailor composite properties to the application;
• near net-shape preform capabilities; and
• reduced lay-up complexity and handling time.

This close-up cross section of a thick 3-D woven glass billet shows the layer-to-layer weave
configuration.

Reviewing The Basics


Though composite applications are currently the primary use for 3-D woven products, there is
vast potential for future applications, both within the composites marketplace and in non-composite
applications as well. In an attempt to clarify and hopefully define what constitutes 3-D weaving or
a 3-D woven fabric, a brief review of traditional weaving might be helpful.

According to Wikipedia.com, “weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct
sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.” And, as many
may recall from some weaving instructor in the past, the weaving process historically is defined by
repeating a basic four-step cycle:

• Shed formation: An opening is created in the warp, or machine-direction, yarns for the weft, or
  filling, yarn to pass through. The subsequent shed changes create the weave’s pattern.
• Weft, or filling, insertion: The weft yarn is inserted in the shed.
• Beat-up: The weft yarn is beaten into the fell of the cloth.
• Take-up and let-off: The resultant fabric is taken-up from the fell, and a corresponding amount
  of warp yarn is let-off to fill the void.

Successful repeats of this cycle result in the production of a woven fabric. Most people
tend to think of and recognize conventional woven fabrics as roll goods having a clearly defined
length and width, but very little discernable depth or thickness. In the composites marketplace,
primarily because of their lack of discernable depth, these traditional woven fabrics, while
possibly made from carbon, fiberglass, aramid, or any variety of combinations, are generally
understood to be two-dimensional, or 2-D, fabrics. 3-D fabrics are the same in principle as 2-D
fabrics, but possess a noticeable third dimension of significant depth or thickness created during
the 3-D weaving process.

In an orthogonal, or through-thickness, weave, the weaving and connecting of lengthwise warp
and crosswise fill layers generate inherent through-thickness physical properties in the
fabric.

Adding A Third Dimension


The same basic four-step weave cycle applies to both 2-D weaving and 3-D weaving, but to
create the third dimension, additional warp yarns are manipulated into multiple layers. This
manipulation of the warp, with multiple layers woven in sync using extra filling insertions,
creates the fabric’s depth by weaving through the thickness — commonly referred to as
through-thickness. The through-thickness weaving and connecting of warp and fill layers generates
the 3-D woven fabric’s highly desirable and inherent through-thickness physical properties.

Generally, 3-D fabrics are produced on customized or purpose-built weaving machines, which
most likely incorporate a Jacquard unit to control the action of each warp yarn independently via
computer. The Jacquards used are heavy-duty, but similar to those found weaving carpets and
intricate home-furnishing fabrics. For most 3-D woven fabrics, the warp yarns are commonly woven
from a creel setup instead of from traditional loom beams. This setup affords the freedom for each
warp yarn to be tensioned individually throughout the weaving process. Individual tension of the
warp yarn is necessary, given that many are likely to travel different lengths while weaving
distinctive paths through the fabric’s thickness, compared with those of their respective warp
neighbors that may be weaving entirely different paths.


Combining recent improvements in weave design tools with individual tensioning and Jacquard
head control of each warp yarn not only creates numerous possibilities for the design engineer, but
also provides the freedom to incorporate a number of different yarns and yarn systems into the 3-D
woven structure. Theoretically, it is possible, though probably not practical, to use a different
yarn type for each of the warp ends in a 3-D woven fabric. It should be noted that in part because
of the extensive setup and yarn-handling requirements, 3-D weaving does result in relatively higher
weaving costs than traditional 2-D weaving. In many applications, however, the higher incurred 3-D
weaving costs can be offset by reduced lay-up complexity and material handling time, and improved
product performance.

Growing Range Of Possibilities


Given the fact that a design engineer now has access to vastly improved design technology
and the added depth component of a 3-D woven structure, a wide variety of simple to rather complex
shapes can be created. The growing array of 3-D woven fabric possibilities tends to fall into one
of two categories: billets and fabric panels; or complex near net-shape preforms.

Billets or flat panels of consistent thickness can be as thin as 0.125 inch (3 millimeters
[mm]) or as thick as 5 inches (125 mm) or more. When molded and shaped, these are used in various
applications in which delamination is a concern, as structural components and possibly as
replacements for heavier metallic versions. 3-D woven billets also are being evaluated in advanced
ballistic armor applications, in which their inherent resistance to delamination, improved damage
tolerance relative to 2-D laminated structures and significant weight savings show great promise.

Near net-shape preforms can have rather complex geometries tailored to specific applications
including airfoils, fan blades, radomes, tubes, bifurcated shapes, contours and structural cross
sections such as T’s, Pi’s and X’s. Many are made from ultra-high-performance fibers and used in
extreme high-temperature applications in which traditional metals are not able to withstand the
operating environment. Other applications include unique cross-section components that help to
improve joint strength for composite assemblies. For these applications, the flexibility of 3-D
weaving allows for the orientation and positioning of fiber paths that are more in line with
physical stresses, resulting in improved product design and efficiency.

It should also be noted that in many 3-D woven preforms, when compared to 2-D laminates,
there is generally a trade-off of in-plane strength for through-thickness strength. As a result,
each potential 3-D woven application should be evaluated specifically for that application’s
performance requirements. 3-D woven composite applications and their performance attributes will be
discussed in more detail in part two of this series, which will be published in the next issue of
Textile World.

Manufacturers of 3-D woven fabrics stand at the ready to assist engineers and developers
with new applications for 3-D weaving technology.

Editor’s note: Jim Kaufmann is a senior engineer at TEAM Inc., Woonsocket, R.I., specialists in
textile engineering and weaving fabrics and preforms from high-performance, difficult-to-handle
fibers including carbon, glass, aramids and ceramic fibers.

July/August 2012