DURHAM, N.C.— June 13, 2025 — The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) has launched a new test method, TM217-2025, Liquid Moisture Management: Vertical and Horizontal Wicking — Image Analysis.
The method was developed to support improved understanding of liquid wicking and moisture transport in textile fabrics, aligning with advancements in imaging-based instrumentation. It was created in consultation with textile test instrument designer and manufacturer, James Heal.
The test method employs imaging technology and data analysis to measure, evaluate, and classify moisture movement in textiles both vertically and horizontally. This approach provides a dualistic assessment of performance under wear conditions.
If you would like to drive the industry forward by helping to create innovative new standards through research committee involvement reach out to AATCC Technical Department for more details at standardsmatter@aatcc.org
AATCC Delivers End-to-End Support for Textile Testing with Training, Supplies, and Technical Expertise
AATCC plays a leading role in the development of internationally recognized textile testing standards. Through a collaborative, consensus-based process, AATCC brings together global experts from industry, academia, and government to create rigorous, science-based test methods. These standards ensure consistency, reliability, and innovation in textile quality and performance across international markets.
Building on this foundation, AATCC offers a comprehensive suite of products and services that bring these standards to life. From On-site Test Method Training and Textile Testing Fundamentals to the Global Trainers Program, Proficiency Testing, Testing Supplies, and expert Technical Staff Support, AATCC empowers professionals worldwide to implement best practices and maintain the highest levels of material performance. AATCC is the trusted partner for textile professionals worldwide.
AATCC Technical Department: Your Direct Line to Expert Support
AATCC’s Technical Department Staff are available to assist members and customers with questions related to test methods, product usage, and standards interpretation. Whether you’re troubleshooting a test procedure, selecting the right reference fabric, or preparing for an audit, AATCC’s experts are here to help.
Support Services Include:
Clarification of AATCC test methods and procedures
Guidance on selecting appropriate testing supplies and materials
Assistance with proficiency testing and laboratory performance feedback
Technical insights into research, development, and compliance
AATCC Services and Products: Trusted Solutions for the Textile Industry
On-site Test Method Training
Hands-on, customized instruction delivered at your facility. AATCC delivers expert-led, hands-on instruction directly at company facilities. This customizable program allowed organizations to select the date, location, and AATCC test methods most relevant to their needs. With small group sizes, interactive lab sessions, and flexible scheduling, the training offers a tailored learning experience designed to enhance staff expertise and testing accuracy.
Textile Testing Fundamentals
Offered in collaboration with the Zeis Textiles Extension Department of the Wilson College of Textiles at North Carolina State University, this on-demand online course is designed for anyone looking to deepen their understanding of textile technology. Whether you’re new to the industry or seeking a refresher, Textile Fundamentals provides accessible, expert-led instruction to build a strong foundation in textile science.
Testing Supplies & Reference Materials
AATCC offers a comprehensive selection of standardized testing materials to ensure consistency and reliability in textile evaluation. These include control fabrics, reference detergents, gray scales for color change and staining, chromatic transference scales, and other essential tools specified in AATCC test methods. All materials are developed or selected to meet the rigorous specifications outlined in AATCC standards, supporting accurate, reproducible results across a wide range of performance tests.
Proficiency Testing Program
AATCC’s Proficiency Testing Programs (PTP) are designed to support laboratory certification and drive continuous improvement. Each program provides carefully selected samples that yield consistent, meaningful results across a range of test methods and evaluation procedures. Participating labs can benchmark their performance, validate accuracy, and demonstrate a commitment to high-quality, reliable testing.
AATCC Global Trainers Program – Expanding Textile Testing Expertise Worldwide
The AATCC Global Trainers Program empowers a network of qualified professionals to deliver standardized, high-quality instruction in AATCC test methods across the globe. Trainers are carefully selected and certified by AATCC to ensure consistency, technical accuracy, and excellence in textile testing education. Through this program, AATCC extends its reach, enabling local access to expert-led training that supports global harmonization of testing practices and promotes continuous professional development in the textile industry.
Together, these offerings provide a comprehensive ecosystem for textile professionals—from education and training to testing, quality assurance, and expert support.
Posted: June 16, 2025
Source: The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
SINGAPORE — June 16, 2025 — ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025 has released the eagerly awaited exhibitor list on a new mobile app available for users of both Android and IOS devices.
Although the sales application period has closed, new space applications have continued to stream in, signaling strong confidence from exhibitors in the leading textile machinery showcase.
The four-day exhibition at Singapore Expo has attracted over 770 exhibitors from 31 countries and regions. Spanning 70,000 square metres of gross exhibition space, it features 19 product sectors that represents the entire textile manufacturing value chain.
To enhance the visitor experience, ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025’s new companion mobile app enables visitors to curate their own itinerary with a bookmark feature. A built-in wayfinder system lets visitors plan the shortest routes for booth visits with minimal fuss. This is also a handy feature for exhibitors to quickly locate potential partners for networking opportunities.
Currently, the exhibitor listing is only available on the mobile app and an online version will be released on the ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025 website in end June.
ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025 is owned by CEMATEX (the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers) and its Chinese partners comprising China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) and the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT TEX).
The exhibition is organised by ITMA Services Pte Ltd and co-organised by Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co., Ltd (BJITME). Japan Textile Machinery Association (JTMA) is a special partner.
Visitors hoping to enjoy the online early bird rates for badge purchases can still do so before 28 September on www.itmaasiasingapore.com.
Outgoing NCTO Chairman Charles Heilig outlined the U.S. textile industry’s major challenges and achievements last year during his “State of the U.S. Textile Industry” address during NCTO’s 21st annual meeting in Washington.
By Charles Heilig
As we all know, the last few years have been challenging, both within our businesses and here in Washington. I would like to provide an overview of some of the major issues our industry faced as well as the progress we made, and achievements accomplished last year.
The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) represents the full spectrum of the U.S. textile industry — a production chain that employs 471,000 workers nationwide and produces $64 billion in output annually. Our industry is a key contributor to our national defense and supplies over 8,000 products a year to the military. It is also a leading high-tech innovator supplying cutting-edge solutions and end products in diverse fields such as heart valves and stents to aircraft components and advanced body armor.
Our industry’s resilience and innovation is unparalleled and strong, despite economic and trade headwinds that have impacted our sector and our customers.
The breadth of challenges we face every day is astonishing — economic downturns, predatory trade practices, such as the use of forced labor in supply chains, ill-conceived trade policies, inadequate customs enforcement of trade fraud, post-pandemic inventory
related issues, freight and logistics challenges, and race-to-the-bottom business models that — all combined — are suppressing growth and investment, leading to a persistent and severe downturn in business.
There is no doubt we have experienced a very challenging three-year-cycle and our domestic production has been harmed as a result.
With all that in mind, I am reminded of a comment Kennesaw State University’s top economist Roger Tutterow said at a past NCTO meeting.
I’m paraphrasing here but he noted: “A market disruption like this takes years to rebalance,” and that is what we are all experiencing.
Recognizing that we are in a pro-longed market disruption, the challenge we now face is to effectively respond not only with improvements to our business models, but also in the policy arena to ensure we will rebound and continue to expand as an industry.
To confront these challenges, NCTO and industry leaders launched an aggressive lobbying campaign over the past year to raise awareness about the myriad trade policies impacting the industry and the importance of our sector to the economy.
I can’t stress how important and invaluable NCTO is to each of our members individually and to the industry as a whole. It is our collective voice where we make a meaningful difference for companies and employees.
And our voices are being heard at the highest levels of the administration and on Capitol Hill.
Cabinet secretaries and members of Congress elevated the textile industry’s importance to the economy and national defense base at congressional hearings, conferences, in the press and in countless letters — all due to our diligent and effective work through executive fly-ins, high-level meetings, policy analysis, letters and press engagement throughout the year.
Before highlighting NCTO’s policy wins in 2024, I want to quickly share a “by the numbers” recap of the key data points that highlight our industry’s resilience and staying power.
By The Numbers
Despite the economic downturn and unfair trade practices impacting the industry in 2024, our metrics remained stable or registered only slight declines, with the exception of employment in the cotton and wool sectors. This again underscores the industry’s ability to adapt during challenging times and remain viable even while registering painful losses.
In 2024, the value of U.S. man-made fiber, textile and apparel shipments totaled an estimated $63.9 billion compared with $64.8 billion in 2023.1
Here are additional key industry facts:
U.S. exports of fibers, textiles and apparel were $28 billion in 2024 compared with $29.7 billion in 2023.2
The United States remains the second largest individual country exporter of textile products in the world.
The U.S. textile and apparel industry invested $3 billion in new plants and equipment in 2022, which is the last year data was available for this figure.3
The bottom line is many key fundamentals for the U.S. textile industry remained sound, while some weakened due to the economic and trade headwinds I mentioned a few moments ago.
Policy Issues
Now I would like to highlight a few accomplishments the NCTO staff achieved during the year.
NCTO actively promoted policies to expand the U.S. textile industry at home and in key overseas markets, such as the Western Hemisphere — which accounts for 70 percent of U.S. yarn and fabric exports and supports more than 2.6 million workers throughout this hemisphere — including efforts to preserve yarn-forward rules on origin and broaden export opportunities.
Customs Enforcement
In the area of customs enforcement, NCTO and industry leaders met with Department of Homeland Security (DHS) Secretary Alejandro Mayoras in early January 2024 to highlight industry challenges and make recommendations for an aggressive enforcement plan. We stressed the prioritization of robust enforcement of free trade agreement rules of origin, the need to close the de minimis loophole, and fully enforce the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA).
Following our direct engagement and input, Secretary Mayorkas unveiled a textile enforcement plan in early April, which marked a critical step to combat import fraud and circumvention of free trade agreement rules and trade laws. Secretary Mayorkas also participated in a fireside chat with NCTO’s president and CEO Kim Glas at our Annual Meeting last year.
During the year, NCTO remained actively engaged with DHS and U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) leadership as the plan was put into action, providing tips to investigators; highlighting increased penalties and onsite verifications, which increased from 38 in FY22 to 136 in FY24; and amplifying the expansion of the UFLPA violator’s entities list, which grew from 33 to 144 companies.
In addition, NCTO members attended the opening of a new isotopic testing facility at the port of Savannah in September which will help the agency in its UFLPA enforcement. The agency has purchased new equipment and is in the process of ramping up this important testing capability to detect banned cotton grown in the Xinjiang province.
De Minimis
In perhaps one of the most targeted and coordinated efforts undertaken by NCTO, industry leaders executed a sweeping and effective lobbying campaign on Capitol Hill and with the administration to press for de minimis reform to permanently close the trade loophole for all countries.
I cannot stress enough how important this engagement is to the industry. It involved fly-ins, letters, and meetings with members of Congress and key staff on relevant congressional committees — both on the Hill and in districts. It required detailed policy analysis, phone calls and countless emails to educate and raise awareness about the adverse impact this ill-conceived provision in U.S. trade law has had on our industry and manufacturing as a whole.
In addition, NCTO spearheaded the formation of the Coalition to Close the De Minimis Loophole, a broad alliance including families of victims of fentanyl fatalities and non-profit organizations, domestic law enforcement associations, manufacturers and business associations.
Coalition members participated in roundtables and press conferences with reform champions like Congressman Earl Blumenauer and Congresswoman Rosa DeLauro.
They lobbied lawmakers on the Hill and sent letters to key policymakers —all in a coordinated and unified effort to close this dangerous loophole.
NCTO and the coalition are constantly pressing President Trump and his administration to reinstate his pro-posed ban on de minimis imports from China and to take additional action to close the harmful de minimis loophole for all countries permanently.
NCTO is also urgently working to pass a new Miscellaneous Tariff bill with immediate and full retroactivity.
And the organization continues to press for the expansion of the Berry Amendment, after securing key pro-visions in the Fiscal Year 2025 National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA) which Congress passed late last year. The NDAA supports the Berry Amendment, which requires the Department of Defense to purchase 100 percent U.S. made textiles and clothing. The legislation includes two new key provisions important to the domestic textile industry.
Another key priority is advocating for full enforcement of the Make PPE in America Act, which recently led to the award of two government contracts to NCTO member companies.
Additionally, NCTO continues to amplify support for the Section 301 case against China’s intellectual property abuses and pressing for a dramatic increase in tariffs on finished textile and apparel imports from China.
And NCTO is working diligently to protect qualifying trade within our free trade agreements (FTAs).
While we don’t have time to delve into all these important issues, I do want to emphasize that NCTO remains highly engaged on every policy matter that affects the U.S. textile industry with the intent of shaping policies that directly benefit U.S. textile investment, production and employment.
Please also note that industry leadership and involvement is of paramount importance. From contributions to NCTO’s Textile PAC to arranging congressional visits, the industry makes a difference every day in raising awareness about our important contribution to local and state economies and the U.S. economy overall.
Conclusion
Our industry is experiencing historic challenges that have tested our resolve, and we will continue to see headwinds in the year ahead.
But I know the true resilient nature of our industry and I’ve seen how it has sustained a foothold as a major contributor to the U.S. economy through historic downturns. We will again weather the storm and rebound from this current business cycle, possibly even later this year. There are many reasons I am optimistic about the industry’s future. I know that NCTO and industry leaders will be at the forefront of advocacy on our behalf and continue to engage with members of Congress and the administration to enact policies that bolster and expand the industry, ranging from targeted tariffs to tax reform and expanded government procurement of American-made products. And I know our organization and industry will continue to work in conjunction with our Western Hemisphere trading partners to thwart challenges to our free trade agreement rules, focus on our export markets and sustain and expand our coproduction chain.
In addition, we will continue pressing for stepped-up enforcement and penalties against rampant illegal trade practices and fraud.
In 2025, we look forward to continuing our engagement with Congress and the new administration to secure additional policy achievements and ensure a vibrant future for this industry.
References: 1 U.S. Census Bureau, Manufacturers’ Shipments, Inventories, and Orders (M3) Survey, and Annual Survey of Manufacturers (ASM), value of shipments for NAICS 313, 314, 315 & 32522. 2021 data used to estimate 2023 NAICS 32522 figure. 2 U.S. Department of Commerce data for Export Group 0: Textiles and Apparel. 3 U.S. Census Bureau, Annual Capital Expenditures Survey (ACES), NAICS 313, 314 & 315.
Editor’s Notes: Information contained in the speech was current as of NCTO’s annual meeting. Charles Heilig is president of Gastonia, N.C.-based Parkdale Mills. He served as the 2024 NCTO chairman. At the 2025 annual NCTO meeting in Washington, Chuck Hall, global president and CEO of Spartanburg, S.C.-based Barnet, succeeded Heilig as NCTO chairman; and Amy Bircher-Bruyn, president and CEO of Brooklyn, Ohio-based MMI Textiles, was elected vice chairman.
The North American Industry Classification System (NAICS) is the standard used by Federal statistical agencies in classifying business establishments for the purpose of collecting, analyzing, and publishing statistical data related to the U.S. business economy. NAICS Subsector 313 covers Textile Mills, sub-sector 314 covers Textile Product Mills and subsector 315 covers Apparel.
NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas with a delegation of Guatemalan leaders.
Trade Associations serve many roles, and recently the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) seized the moment in a turbulent time for U.S. textiles.
TW Special Report
In the United States, trade associations play a noteworthy role in supporting industries, business and professionals through advocacy; providing a networking community; and presenting a unified, empowered group identity.
This is a tall order for any association, but even more so for those in textiles considering the depth and breadth of the segmented U.S. industry.
Recently, the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) effectively seized the moment during a turbulent time, addressing a long-term international trade loophole affecting the industry and responding to fast-moving trade policy changes that carry significant weight on the survival and prosperity of U.S. textiles.
The National Council Of Textile Organizations
Trade associations have been an enduring feature of the U.S. textile industry throughout history, often with geographic or industry-sector focused missions.
Broad associations, that bridge sectors and geography, have been less prevalent and successful, but have a well-storied past that could fill volumes.
Today, NCTO’s identity stands in: “… representing the entire spectrum of the textile sector. From fibers to finished products, from machinery manufacturers to power suppliers, NCTO is the voice of the U.S. textile industry.”
It does so with five separate councils — Fiber; Yarn; Fabric; Finished Textile and Apparel; and Industry Support, which comprises distributors, converters, dyers, printers and finishers, as well as suppliers of products and services. Each council has a board for representation. This structure, according to the NCTO, is to “ensure a broad representation of the supply chain.”
Kim Glas, NCTO, Leib Oehmig, Glen Raven, Congressman David Rouzer (R-N.C) and Congressman Patrick McHenry (R-N.C.), who has since retired.
De Mini — What?
Very few Americans including very few members of the textile industry, had ever heard the phrase “de minimis,” five years ago, let alone had any understanding of its implications on international trade or the health of U.S. textiles.
Today, the Latin phrase and its impact on the textile industry and consumers is well documented. Without getting in the weeds, the dictionary states, de minimis means “of minimal things” or “so small as to be disregarded.” In legal and business contexts, it refers to something insignificant or negligible, often to the point that it’s not worth addressing or taking legal action.
In terms of NCTO’s interest, the de minimis trade exemption was a customs accommodation for small packages, of little value — in this case $800 or less per day, per person — shipped internationally into the United States under Section 321 of the Tariff Act of 1930.
In short, an individual could receive a bottle of Scotch from an aunt living in Scotland at Christmas without clearing customs and paying duty.
Unfortunately, that accommodation became a loophole, then expanded to a loophole-based model for ecommerce giants and mass marketers.
Parkdale’s Anderson “Andy” Warlick at the podium during a press conference with Congresswoman Linda Sanchez (D-Calif.) who introduced the de minimis legisla-tion that NCTO supports.
De Minimis Impact
U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) has a history of concern with de minimis shipments. “Both the volume and combined worth of low-value, or de minimis, shipments to the United States have risen significantly over the past ten years,” said then Secretary of Homeland Security Alejandro N. Mayorkas in a January 2025 press release. “The exemption of these goods from duties or taxes has under-mined American businesses and workers and flooded our ports of entry with foreign-made products, making CBP’s vital work screening these goods for security risks more difficult. The actions announced today to tighten this exemption will strengthen America’s economic and national security.”
The CBP press release also noted: “Over the last 10 years, the number of shipments entering the United States claiming the de minimis administrative exemption increased by more than 600 percent from approximately 139 million a year in Fiscal Year (FY) 2015, to over 1 billion a year by FY 2023. During Fiscal Year 2024, de minimis shipments rose once again to over 1.36 billion. This exponential increase has created challenges for CBP’s effective enforcement of U.S. trade laws, health and safety requirements, intellectual property rights, and consumer protection rules.”
Building A Coalition
An effective way for trade associations to successfully advocate is to band together with like-minded groups to amplify the message at hand and broaden its impact by raising awareness and motivating legislative change.
In March of 2024, “The Coalition to Close the De Minimis Loophole” was launched. NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas stated at the time: “De minimis is not just a textile issue — it’s an issue impacting us all — which is why this broad, diverse coalition has been formed to amplify our collective voices in the fight to get immediate, substantial and consequential change,” commending several congressional champions of closing the loophole, including then Congressman Earl Blumenauer [D-Ore.], Congressman Neal Dunn [R-Fla.], Congresswoman Rosa DeLauro [D-Conn.], and then Congressman Dan Bishop [R-N.C].
Glas added: “Closing this loop-hole will simultaneously assist law enforcement battle the deadly fentanyl and broader illicit drug crisis while also assisting U.S. businesses to operate on a more level playing field with competitors overseas. We urge others in Congress and the Administration to support the effort and immediately close de minimis.”
By broadening the scope of support and illuminating the loophole’s impact, some 29 interested associations and organizations are now behind the issue and advocating for reform.
Diverse groups including the American Federation of Labor and Congress of Industrial Organizations (AFL-CIO), National Association of Police Organizations, Families Against Fentanyl the Coalition for a Prosperous America, and even the United Steelworkers came together and made their voices heard.
A Significant Result
After much testimony and legislative processes, the most current activity on de minimis, as of TW’s press time, was House passage of a budget reconciliation package which includes a provision that would permanently end de minimis for commercial shipments from all countries by July 2027. The legislation next goes to the Senate, and NCTO and the coalition are pressing to keep the provision in the broader budget and tax bill.
Recently, U.S. Senators Sheldon Whitehouse (D-R.I.) and Lindsey Graham (R-S.C.) introduced another strong proposal, the Closing the De Minimis Loophole Act.
Glas commended the Senators “… for their leadership and support of this important bipartisan legislation that would codify and permanently end de minimis treatment for China immediately, while phasing out de minimis for all other countries after a four-month transition period. This bill, a companion to legislation in the House, is the strongest and most comprehensive legislative solution to closing the destructive de minimis loophole once and for all. … The legislation will help level the playing field for the domestic textile industry, which has lost 28 textile plants over the past 22 months. We strongly sup-port this legislation and look forward to working with Senators White-house and Graham to advance it.”
Prior to the introduction of the act, President Donald J. Trump signed an Executive Order eliminating duty-free de minimis treatment for low-value imports from China and Hong Kong. While that order currently stands, it is in limbo and caught up in court cases challenging President Trump’s executive order and authority to impose broad-based tariffs on countries.
It is important to note that this order targets de minimis packages from China and Hong Kong which are packages utilizing the $800 loop-hole most often.
NCTO staff and textile executives on Capitol Hill.
Trade Earthquake
At the 21st NCTO annual meeting held in Washington, Glas shared with the gathered attendees an account of the quick, effective engagement of the NCTO and key members to address a pending crisis that would cancel the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA) and, in her words, “lose half the industry overnight.”
Glas said: “There are certain industry leaders who are not in this room right now because they are writing a letter [to a Cabinet official who] asked our industry to write immediately to put on President Trump’s desk this afternoon.
“We had an urgent meeting with [the high-level administration official] this morning at 11 a.m. at the start of our annual meeting asking him to do everything possible to help our industry grow. Qualified trade, penalties to our Western Hemisphere are all on the line for our industry where we can literally lose 70 percent of our export market, which would hurt even our domestic manufacturers who have fully verticalized supply chain.
As she characterized the events, Glas said: “This is the velocity with which decision making is happening in Washington now. I urge all of you, if you don’t know your member of congress, make sure they get to know you, they come out to your plant. Congressman Hudson was in that meeting with us, from North Carolina, and it made all the difference.”
NCTO’s Kim Glas during NCTO’s annual meeting in Washington.
Glas also described a key meeting the prior day saying: “Yesterday, we had a meeting … and I’m sorry if I’m fired up, I’ve had 12 cups of coffee … but yesterday we were in the West Wing. And when you go to the West Wing, the aura of that just falls on you. It’s like no other place to have a meeting. You are sitting in the West Wing and the situation room is right down the hall … here we are.
“And people say we’re the little old textile industry. We’re not the little old textile industry, we’re the mighty textile industry and we deserve to be in the West Wing.
“I’m going to tell you those CEOs who were in that room carried the weight of all of you in this room, and the people not in this meeting today. It wasn’t about their individual company; it was about the textile team on the field and getting the yards we need to get a goal and to help prevent the worst losses imaginable.”
Situational awareness, being prepared for quick, effective engagement, and successfully making your associations’ case at a critical moment are all hallmarks of a trade association fulfilling its noteworthy role.
As Glas continued addressing industry leaders during the annual meeting, she said, “You’re carrying your team, meaning your workers at your facility, just as much as those CEOs were carrying the textile team, the entirety of it, in these meetings the last couple of days. So, in this period of time, we need to be more collaborative, more thoughtful, we need to let out our stress. We need to show appreciation for where we came from and where we are today.”
Regarding engagement Glas said, “It is the greatest honor for all of us to represent you. We are in this fight with you. But it takes all of us, including our CEO leaders. It’s one thing for me and others here on this stage to talk to congressional offices. It’s a totally different ball of wax because you are representing your facilities and are doing the work. You inspire us, and so I want to say my deep appreciation. And I also want to deeply thank the NCTO team. This has been an incredibly busy five years. This has been an incredibly busy five weeks!”
Results
As of TW’s press time, goods qualifying under the USMCA remain in force. USMCA-compliant imports from Mexico and Canada continue to enter the United States without tariffs, which is critical for the U.S. textile industry. Non-USMCA-compliant textiles from Mexico and Canada face a 25 percent tariff, incentivizing the use of U.S. manufactured components.
Regarding the Administration’s actions, Glas said: “The U.S. textile industry ships $12.3 billion, or 53 percent, of its total global textile exports to Mexico and Canada and those component materials often come back as finished products to the United States under the USMCA. It is by far the largest export region for American textile producers, representing $20 billion in two-way trade that spurs enormous textile investment and employment in the United States. Preserving duty free, qualified trade is absolutely critical to the U.S. textile industry and will provide incentives for more companies to onshore even greater production capacity, giving a boost to American textile manufacturers and their workers.”
A Trade Association In Action
Trade associations come in all shapes, sizes and flavors. But, in this moment, and with its long road to solve the de minimis loophole, the NCTO has largely fulfilled a note-worthy role in supporting the U.S. textile industry — its businesses and plants — through effective advocacy; providing a community and network; and presenting a unified, empowered group identity.
It bears repeating what Glas said. “We’re not the little old textile industry, we’re the mighty textile industry and we deserve to be in the West Wing.”
Cotton Incorporated’s new President and CEO William Kimbrell intends to reinforce the organization’s role as a trusted partner and respected industry leader.
TW Special Report
Cary, N.C.-based Cotton Incorporated is a research and promotion not-for-profit charged with the mission to increase the demand for and profitability of cotton.The company — funded by U.S. growers of upland cotton and importers of cotton textile products — was founded in 1970 in response to the rise of synthetic textile fibers and their impact on cotton’s market share.
Recently, the organization announced the promotion of William Kimbrell to president and CEO. Kimbrell has been at Cotton Incorporated for 22 years holding a variety of positions. He has experience in fiber processing research, as well as roles in the Global Supply Chain Marketing division including technology management, and marketing initiatives with a concentration on Asia. Prior to the promotion, Kimbrell was executive vice president and COO.
Kimbrell graduated from NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles with a degree in Textile Management. He also holds an MBA with a concentration in Supply Chain Management.
At the time of his appointment, Marvin Beyer, chairman of Cotton Incorporated’s Board of Directors, said: “William’s technical expertise along with his extensive global supply chain marketing background provides a deep understanding of the challenges and opportunities facing the cotton industry today. Under his guidance, Cotton Incorporated is well-positioned to continue driving innovation and promoting the many benefits of cotton, making it the fiber of choice in the global textile industry.”
Kimbrell certainly brings a sharp perspective to his new role at Cotton Incorporated. TextileWorld recently sat down with him to discuss the future of cotton and his leadership style, as well as topics impacting the global cotton supply chain including sustainability, research and trade.
TW: How do your 22 years at Cotton Incorporated and strong technical back-ground influence your approach to guiding and leading the organization into its next chapter?
Kimbrell: My 22 years with the company have been incredibly rewarding. I have had the opportunity to work in so many aspects of the organization from fiber and research to marketing initiatives. It has really provided me with an end-to-end understanding of how Cotton Incorporated supports and drives the cotton and textile industry from fiber to finished product. This experience has equipped me to be both strategic and responsive to a market that is constantly evolving. More importantly, it has reinforced my belief in the critical role Cotton Incorporated plays as a trusted source of science, data, and market insight — helping ensure cotton remains the preferred fiber in a competitive market.
TW: What have been your top priorities during your first few months as CEO and is there anything that surprised you about the transition?
Kimbrell: As you are aware, the cotton and textile industry are facing challenging times across the entire supply chain — from farm to retail to consumer. My top priority has been to take a hard look at our program strategy and ensure we’re making the most of our resources — aligning every effort to directly support the industry’s core needs while positioning cotton for long-term growth.
One of my key priorities is to build on the strong foundation we’ve established, while recognizing rapidly changing market dynamics require fresh thinking and new strategies. Cotton Incorporated has consistently delivered meaningful research across both the agricultural and textile sectors. We’ve implemented effective marketing campaigns targeting both the supply chain and consumers. Our Seal of Cotton, has more than 50 years of history and substantial brand equity — demonstrating trust and quality while reinforcing our industry’s dedication to excellence and innovation. Looking ahead, I’m focused on advancing this legacy through a new generation of initiatives that strengthen cotton’s position.
As for the transition itself, I’ve been around for a while, so no real surprises. I feel privileged to be stepping into this role at a time when there are such important opportunities ahead. I’m focused on working alongside our incredible team of experts to tackle these challenges head-on.
TW: What is your strategic vision for Cotton Incorporated over the next five years and how does it capitalize on cotton’s storied past?
Kimbrell: At Cotton Incorporated, we often talk about cotton as the preferred fiber, but my vision is to ensure that cotton is the fiber of choice.The fiber of choice at every stage of the supply chain, from the farm to brands and the consumer. Over the next five years, my strategic focus is to strengthen cotton’s position by elevating cotton as a natural fiber that delivers solutions. Solutions from product innovation to sustainability, performance, and compliance — all while driving economic viability for U.S. producers.
This strategy will be rooted in innovation from advancing farming practices and fiber development to expanding end-use applications. We will work to grow cotton’s presence in emerging markets and new product categories, reinforcing its role as a versatile, high-quality material that meets evolving demands. While we honor cotton’s rich heritage, we’re focused on securing its future — making sure it remains the fiber of choice for generations to come.
Cotton Incorporated recently launched a new CottonWorks.com website.
Research & Development
TW: Cotton Incorporated is known for research and development initiatives throughout the cotton supply chain beginning in the field and ending with cotton products. Any new or interesting initiatives underway?
Kimbrell: Yes, we are continuously advancing research and development initiatives to enhance cotton’s performance, sustainability and market opportunities. A key focus is advancing cotton’s role in circularity, exploring innovative solutions like our cotton to sugar initiative, transforming textile cotton waste into glucose, and other end-of-life solutions like composting, and upcycling. These initiatives aim to further solidify cotton’s position as a renewable resource.
We are also committed to developing performance technologies that do not compromise cotton’s inherent advantages, ensuring that cotton continues to meet the evolving needs of brands and consumers. The most recent technology we released was RESTech Cotton™. Cotton is often the natural choice for bedding because of its soft, breathable qualities. RESTech Cotton builds on those properties adding exceptional smoothness, quicker dry time, and greater abrasion resistance. More information on this finish and our suite of performance cotton technologies is available on our CottonWorks™ website.
CottonWorks also hosts a robust collection of digital fabric developments. We release new collections of knit and woven fabrics twice a year and these developments are a tremendous resource to the industry.
Beyond product, we’re exploring new applications for cottonseed oil and biochar, expanding their use in industries such as food, energy, and soil health. These efforts are aligned with our broader sustainability goals and highlight the versatility of cotton as a natural resource. Lastly, we are extending the impact of our Blue Jeans Go Green™ program, which promotes the recycling of denim into new products, further contributing to the circular economy and reducing waste in the textile industry.
TW: Are there areas of seed, agriculture, fiber, yarn, or fabric innovation that are most critical for the cotton industry over the next three to five years?
Kimbrell: Over the next three to five years, key innovations will be important for the cotton industry, particularly in agriculture, fiber, and across the supply chain.
On the agricultural side, advancements will focus on improving soil health, increasing water efficiency, and enhancing carbon sequestration, all of which contribute to producer profitability and the sustain-ability of cotton farming.
Additionally, automation and emerging technologies, such as “see and spray” systems, will play a significant role in optimizing cotton production. These technologies will help improve precision in farming, optimize input use efficiency, and further enhance cotton’s sustainability credentials.
Across the entire supply chain, it is essential that cot-ton meets and exceeds the performance, environmental, and compliance needs of brands and retailers and be positioned as a solution.
TW: Are there any emerging technologies or innovations that you believe have the potential to significantly transform the use of cotton in the textile industry over the next decade?
Kimbrell: The next decade holds great promise for cotton, with innovations in fiber quality and consistency, and performance-enhancing finishes, especially those derived from biobased materials, opening the door to new products. At the same time, low-impact processes are making more efficient use of water, energy and chemistry which supports environmental goals and efficiencies. Advances in circularity, including upcycling and the exploration of new markets, will further solidify cotton’s role as a key sustainable material in the textile industry.
Cotton Incorporated experiments with a variety of dyeing techniques including digital printing.
Cotton Marketing
TW: Cotton Incorporated was founded 55 years ago in response to the rise of synthetic fibers and their impact on cotton’s market share. How has the fiber landscape changed over the years and how do you see Cotton Incorporated’s role in today’s altered fiber marketplace?
Kimbrell: When Cotton Incorporated was founded in 1970, synthetic fibers like polyester were rapidly gaining ground, largely due to their low cost and ease of care. Cotton faced an urgent need to innovate, to promote its natural strengths, and to reclaim its relevance with consumers and manufacturers. Over the decades, the fiber marketplace has continued to evolve. Today, competition in the fiber market is even stronger and innovation cycles are faster and more complex than ever before.
However, the market needs have shifted. While product performance remains a key priority, today’s consumers and brands place increasing importance on compliance issues like sustainability, traceability, and circularity — areas where cotton has a tremendous opportunity to be the solution. Cotton Incorporated’s role remains critical in ensuring that cotton continues to lead as a high-quality, versatile, and compliant fiber. Through science-based research and innovation, our mission to protect and grow demand for cotton remains the same, but our approach has broadened in how we meet that mission.
TW: U.S. cotton has global opportunities. What is Cotton Incorporated’s approach to support demand around the globe?
Kimbrell: We support global demand for U.S. cotton by leveraging our unique expertise in technical research, innovation, marketing and supply chain support. There is simply no other organization or facility like Cotton Incorporated. Our people and their subject matter expertise help ensure U.S. cotton continues to meet the diverse needs of the global market. As the top resource for cotton, we collaborate closely with stakeholders across the value chain, ensuring U.S. cotton remains competitive in the global market.
TW: Cotton has long been “The Fabric of Our Lives.”Will we see any shifts in Cotton Incorporated’s branding or messaging under your leadership?
Kimbrell: The iconic “The Fabric of Our Lives” campaign continues to be a cornerstone of our consumer brand strategy.The iconic campaign has evolved to meet the needs of today’s consumers, targeting 18-34 year-old, primarily female, Gen Z and Millennials. A recent shift to the “Fabric of Now”campaign takes a more modern marketing approach employing social media, influencers and strategic brand partnerships shifting the focus to targeted consumer engagement around cotton’s key benefits through education and driving behavior change.
TW: Cotton Incorporated has long focused on market research and data collection to support its research and marketing efforts. What opportunity does artificial intelligence present in this data management and analysis?
Kimbrell: With research at our core, we’ve always embraced technology, and artificial intelligence offers tremendous benefits. That said, we will continue to rely on our subject matter experts and key stakeholders to ensure the data and insights are grounded in industry knowledge and practical experience. Combining AI with expert-driven insights allows us to refine our strategies, predict market trends and optimize supply chain management while we ensure our research, and marketing efforts remain at the forefront of the cotton industry.
Cotton Incorporated has a variety of spinning, knitting and weaving machines used to generate FABRICAST™ collection samples, as well as develop other technical cotton innovations.
Supply Chain
TW: The push for transparency and traceability is increasing in the textile industry. How does Cotton Incorporated support the cotton industry moving towards a more accountable supply chain?
Kimbrell: The push for greater transparency and traceability in the textile industry is accelerating, and Cotton Incorporated is committed to being a trusted resource for manufacturers, brands, and retailers navigating this evolving landscape. We actively support the industry’s shift toward a more accountable supply chain by providing objective guidance on traceability technologies and sourcing strategies.Through our CottonWorks platform, we offer extensive sourcing support, technical insights, and educational resources to help partners make informed decisions that align with their traceability goals.
Trade
TW: What are your thoughts on the implementation of tariffs and how they may impact U.S. cotton producers, as well as the international cotton supply chain?
Kimbrell: The rapidly evolving changes proposed around tariffs create uncertainty around purchasing decisions throughout the supply chain. Given the global nature of the textile supply chain, changes in tariff structures have the potential to increase costs and purchasing decisions at each stage of the supply chain, from fiber to finished good.
This uncertainty can dampen demand, independent of the direct impact of the eventual policies that are implemented over the longer-term.
The recent changes in tariffs are added onto existing rates. As a result, any existing tariff advantages cotton-dominant products have relative to man-made dominant products are maintained and should continue to support cotton’s share of U.S. imports.
TW: Do you see any other economic challenges for U.S. cotton producers and domestic cotton textile manufacturers?
Kimbrell: U.S. cotton producers and domestic cotton textile manufacturers are currently facing several economic challenges, including low prices, inflation, rising interest rates, and increasing input costs, all of which impact the economic viability of production. These challenges validate the importance of our research and the role of industry partnerships in navigating these conditions.
Cotton Incorporated is committed to supporting stakeholders, with a global presence of research and marketing experts positioned strategically to address these issues and help sustain the industry’s growth.
Sustainability
TW: What’s your assessment of the sustain-ability narrative surrounding cotton, and how are you calibrating messaging and research to ensure data-driven advocacy?
Kimbrell: The sustainability narrative surrounding cotton is strong. As a natural fiber, cotton has a clear advantage in this space, with its natural biodegradability and microplastic-free benefit. Cotton is grown from the earth and can be returned to the earth. Our story is compelling, backed by data-driven research that highlights cotton’s sustainability benefits. This positions cotton as the natural, eco-friendly choice in the fiber market, reinforcing its unique place throughout the supply chain.
TW: How do you see consumer awareness and behavior influencing the adoption of sustainable practices? What role does consumer education play in driving demand for truly sustainable products?
Kimbrell: Consumer awareness and behavior are key drivers in the adoption of sustainable practices. Our 2025 Lifestyle Monitor™ Survey found that the majority of consumers — 71 percent — say they are likely to check the fiber content label before purchasing a clothing item to avoid apparel made from synthetic fibers. As consumers become more conscious of environmental impacts, particularly with the increased visibility of the threat of microplastics, their preference for natural, biodegradable materials will increase.
Education plays a vital role in shaping these behaviors and it is essential for brands and retailers to provide greater visibility and transparency about the fibers they use, making it easy for consumers to find and choose truly sustainable products.
William Kimbrell and key members of the Global Supply Chain Marketing team, Cotton Incorporated board members and cotton producers convened in Hong Kong recently for the Cotton ConneXions conference.
Concluding Thoughts
TW: Are there any factors that concern you with regards to successfully maintaining and growing cotton’s future?
Kimbrell: We are navigating through undeniably complex times. From the field to the consumer, challenges are weighing heavy on the cotton industry. Our growers are under immense pressure. Rising input costs, depressed prices, and unpredictable yields have created a tough environment where profitability is hard-won.
On the product side, we continue to confront a fiber market that is evolving rapidly. It is a fiber market where low-cost synthetics have gained market share. However, these short-term advantages come with long-term environmental costs like microplastics. It’s a firm reminder that innovation, performance, and leaning into cotton’s natural advantages are critically important. Cotton is a versatile, high-quality, safe and compliant fiber so even in the midst of these headwinds, this environment is full of opportunity.
At Cotton Incorporated, we are not new to adversity. The Cotton Research and Promotion Program was built to address exactly these kinds of challenges and market complexities. Whether it’s advancing cutting-edge agricultural research, driving sustain-ability initiatives, or developing technologies that help cotton compete on efficiency and performance, our work is laying the foundation for a more competitive and sustainable future for cotton. Our marketing efforts continue to build trust and relevance for cotton with our “customers” — manufacturers, brands, retailers and consumers around the world. These efforts don’t just promote a fiber — they promote a story of stewardship, innovation and authenticity that sets cotton apart.
Undoubtedly, there is more work to be done. The challenges we face are not short-term. We must keep pace with accelerating innovation in alternative fibers. We also must remain vigilant in communicating cotton’s strong environmental story in a world where regulatory pressures, misinformation, and shifting consumer expectations abound. Finally, sustaining cotton’s future means standing firmly behind our growers — through strategic investment in research, technology, and advocacy that reinforces cotton’s economic viability. I’m confident in the talent and dedication of the Cotton Incorporated team and the strength of our stakeholder community. With the right focus and collective will, we have the capability to deliver meaningful progress and move cotton forward in a rapidly changing world.
TW: When you look back on your tenure, what do you hope to have achieved both for the cotton industry and the organization?
Kimbrell: Cotton is truly the “Fabric of our Lives.” It touches nearly every part of our daily routines — offering comfort, durability and versatility in a way that only a natural fiber can. But cotton is more than a product; it’s a cornerstone of the global economy, sustaining the livelihoods of millions of farmers and workers. Grown in 77 countries, traded across more than 80 countries, and used in manufacturing in nearly 160 countries, cotton is a truly global fiber of great significance.
At Cotton Incorporated, the work we do matters — to all of these stakeholders. It matters to farmers whose livelihoods depend on a healthy, vibrant textile industry. It matters to families who rely on cotton products every day. It matters to manufacturers, brands, and retailers looking for sustainable, high-quality materials. And it matters to the future of an industry that is interwoven with the economies and communities around the world.
When I look back on my tenure, I hope it will be defined by measurable, meaningful progress — progress that strengthened cotton’s position in the market, enhanced Cotton Incorporated’s ability to support the industry, and added real value for all cotton stakeholders. I want us to have expanded cotton’s relevance not just through innovation in the field, fiber and fabric, but through marketing that authentically tells cotton’s story — a story rooted in stewardship, quality and enduring value.
I also hope to have led Cotton Incorporated in a way that reinforced its role as a trusted partner and respected industry leader — a source of expertise, collaboration, and inspiration from farm to retail. Ultimately, our success will be measured by more than market share. It will be seen in the strength, resilience, and continued relevance of cotton as the fiber of choice for generations to come.
The inaugural Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit is designed to foster collaboration across the U.S. hemp fiber industry.
TW Special Report
The 2018 Farm Bill brought with it an increased interest in growing hemp in the United States. In turn, there also was a growing interest in using hemp for textile products. As noted by Aaron Nesser in his feature “Hemp’s American Arrival: Tariffs An Unexpected Ally,” (TW, this issue) the industry is ripe for investment and development.
Recognizing the potential and wanting to draw attention to the industry, several groups have come together to organize the 2025 Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit to explore innovation, supply chain development and market opportunities for hemp fiber.
The event, to be held July 15-17, 2025, is hosted by the NC State Wilson College of Textiles, Raleigh, N.C., presented by the National Industrial Hemp Council (NICH), and sup-ported by the NSF Textile Engine.
“This summit is designed to deliver actionable knowledge and foster collaboration across the entire hemp fiber value chain — from seed to finished product,” said Patrick Atagi, NIHC president and CEO. “Attendees will leave with new tools, connections and strategies to move their businesses and the industry forward.”
The event kicks off with a net-working reception at Trophy Brewing on July 14.
The first day of the summit, July 15, focuses on learning with plenary sessions at the Wilson College of Textiles. The five sessions — Agriculture; Processing; Textiles; Composites and Building Materials; and Industry Value Chain — are designed to tell the story of industrial hemp fiber. Presentations will center on the latest developments in hemp fiber technology and applications. Fiber genetics, cultivation, mechanical processing, advanced manufacturing and cutting-edge research all will be discussed.
On July 16, summit participants will see hemp innovation firsthand as they are transported to NC State’s College of Agricultural and Life Sciences Horticultural Research Stations and Biophil Natural Fibers in Lumberton, N.C. These two field trips, led by Dr. David Suchoff and David Camby respectively, will educate attendees on the hemp fiber journey from field to fiber and hurd processing to decorticating and spinning, and beyond.
Day three, July 17, rounds out the conference with additional speakers, roundtable discussions, and tours of the Wilson College of Textiles complex as well as The Nonwovens Institute.
Each stage of the summit will allow attendees to network as they engage and learn more about industrial hemp and how it is transforming supply chains in textiles, construction, automotive components and more.
“We’re genuinely excited to champion the research and development of hemp textiles right here in the United States,” said Dr. Andre West, professor and director of Zeis Textiles Extension at NC State University. “Investing in hemp is a win-win for our economy and our environment — it’s a sustainable crop that empowers American farmers, reduces our reliance on imports, and paves the way for a cleaner, more resilient textile industry.”
“I’m incredibly excited to be a part of organizing the inaugural Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit,” said Guy Carpenter, founder and president of Bear Fiber Inc., and NIHC representative. “This international gathering will spotlight American ingenuity and highlight the rapid advancements in U.S. hemp fiber innovation, while fostering global collaboration across the fiber value chain.
“Today, we’re blending and spinning both coarse and fine count yarns, enabling high-quality knits and wovens with confidence and precision,” Carpenter added. “This success is the result of a collaborative industry effort — farm to fiber to fabric to fashion — proving the power of innovation and partnership. We’re excited to showcase hemp’s role in sustainable manufacturing and its growing impact on the world stage.”
Summit sponsors include: presenting sponsor NIHC, host sponsor Wilson College of Textiles, funding partner U.S. Department of Agriculture, and supporting sponsor the NSF Textile Engine, as well as Bear Fiber, IND Hemp, Hemi and Biophil Natural Fibers.
All professionals, authorities and researchers who wish to foster advances in the hemp fiber industry are invited to participate in the inaugural 2025 NIHC Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit!
For more information about the Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit contact GlobalHempFiber@ncsu.edu or visit globalhempfiber.textiles.ncsu.edu.
Hemp yarn spinning in action. (Image courtesy of U.S. Department of Agriculture Agricultural Research Service, New Orleans)
Will uncertainty in global supply chains created by tariffs create opportunities for hemp in the textile industry?
By Aaron Nesser
China has long dominated hemp textiles. It is the number one grower and processor.
Since industrial hemp’s legalization in 2018, the United States has become the world’s third-largest grower of hemp, but China still dominates the critical process of converting raw hemp into textile fiber.
This dynamic means that some U.S.-grown hemp is shipped to China for processing before it is incorporated into apparel destined for U.S. and European markets — a complex global loop that new tariffs, even at just 30 percent, are now disrupting.
Why Now? Positioning For A Shifting Market
Hemp is hardly new to American soil; it was once the number one fiber crop grown in the United States, essential for industries like shipping, defense, textiles and paper. However, shifts in technology and policy, including its later prohibition, pushed it aside.
The 2018 Farm Bill brought a resurgence of interest, but the initial hype quickly met reality. Farmers rushed to grow hemp, but with limited processing infrastructure, there were few buyers, and many growers got burned.
Since then, companies have quietly built the needed infrastructure, processing U.S.-grown hemp into products like insulation and building materials.
Why might this tariff-driven moment differ? Key parts of the supply chain are now in place. More farmers are growing industrial hemp, and volume processors like Dallas-based Panda Biotech LLC and IND Hemp, Benton, Mont., are contracting directly with farmers to ensure a plentiful supply of hemp materials, including the key raw ingredient for textile fiber.
From Missed Expectations To Real Resilience
During hemp’s hype-phase from 2018–2022, hopes ran high that it could be a superior, sustainable substitute for cotton. However, early attempts to produce hemp textiles revealed significant challenges. One-hundred-percent hemp yarns failed in existing cotton mills, blends with cotton were less than ideal, and the “cottonization” process proved more complex and environmentally taxing than anticipated.
But the industry has learned from these early stumbles. After a period of recalibration, hemp now is getting beyond some of the early roadblocks and shows potential for clear economic, environmental and performance advantages.
As a crop, hemp is very productive. Compared to cotton it produces three to four times as much fiber per acre, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, and can be planted and harvested two or more times per sea-son, according to the Rodale Institute. This increased productivity uses 75 percent less water1 than cotton.
Beyond sheer output, hemp demonstrates surprising resilience as a crop. It thrives in more diverse climates than cotton, and research from University of Adelaide2 shows that industrial hemp is exceptionally drought tolerant. In a warming world, where cotton crops suffer billion dollar losses due to drought and water rationing, hemp may be a way to mitigate extreme weather risk.
This resilience extends to the fiber itself. As a natural material, hemp is inherently strong, and after early disappointments with blends, it’s now proving its toughness. New, clean processing technology, especially for degumming, has advanced and is now capable of producing fiber that genuinely improves performance and comfort.
The Domestic Challenge: Bridging The Infrastructure & Technology Gap
Successfully bringing U.S. hemp textiles to market hinges on overcoming key infrastructure and processing hurdles. The American textile industry is built for short-staple cotton, and hemp is not natively compatible. To work in cotton systems, apparel-quality fiber needs extensive processing, called cottonization to create short, spinnable fibers, which usually involves chemical degumming.
This critical degumming is often outsourced to China, employing methods that face significant U.S. environ-mental and worker safety regulatory barriers from the Environmental Protection Agency and Occupational Safety and Health Administration. This reliance on overseas processing is a primary challenge that tariffs could incentivize solving domestically.
Hemp yarn and knitted hemp fabric (Images courtesy of Renaissance Fiber Inc.)
Progress is being made on multiple fronts. Panda Biotech’s Senior Vice President of Business Development Mark D’Sa reports that the company has now made a key advancement, producing fiber for bottomweight textiles like denim and canvas. It is able to do so by bypassing degumming altogether.
For the finer, softer yarns suitable for apparel like T-shirts — where major players note historical processing and comfort challenges — Daniel Yohannes, CEO of Renaissance Fiber Inc., Winston-Salem, N.C., shared a breakthrough — a first-of-its-kind clean degumming process. According to Yohannes, the process achieves strength and softness without harsh chemistry, making it the first scalable solution in the United States for fine textiles.
The challenge now is scaling up these domestic solutions in an economically uncertain time.
Navigating Tariffs And Building The Fiber Supply Chain
Despite progress, serious hurdles still remain. The current administration’s stance is bearish on domestic textiles3, and ironically, tariffs meant to curb imports also hit the equipment crucial for building the U.S. industry. Compatibility with existing infrastructure will be an advantage.
The bellwether for success will be hemp-centric brands. Companies like Jungmaven — an apparel brand focused on using hemp in its products— and Datsusara LLC — an apparel and bag brand known for Joe Rogan’s favorite fanny pack — currently rely on established Chinese supply chains for hemp-blend apparel. The key question is if they will shift these operations — and critically, if they’ll choose producers in the United States.
A Tariff-Driven Opportunity, If Hurdles Can Be Cleared
Tariffs on Chinese goods offer a potential, if uncertain, catalyst for the U.S. hemp textile industry.
While early hype has yielded to tangible progress, realizing hemp’s full potential requires decisively bridging infrastructure gaps and scaling innovative processing to achieve market competitiveness.
Today’s economic and trade uncertainties may provide a rare opening. Seizing it, however, demands more than technical breakthroughs; sustained investment, bold innovation and strategic farm-to-fashion alliances are critical. Can the U.S. hemp industry mobilize the resources and speed required?
Editor’s Note: Aaron Nesser is a scientist, designer and founder of Keep Earth Co., a strategic advisory and product development consultancy specializing in biobased materials and products. He previously directed material innovation for kelp-based textile company Keel Labs, Morrisville, N.C.
Danville, Va.-based Circ has announced plans to build a $500 million cotton and polyester recycling plant in France.
Recycling textiles isn’t new, but investments point to a trend that is attracting interest that fits well with textiles burgeoning sustainability mindset.
TW Special Report
Recently, Textile World editors have observed an increasing volume of reports of textile recycling projects taking shape. From the inception of new companies and partnerships made, to new plant announcements. When sustainability entered the textile lexicon not that long ago, questions swirled as to what it really meant for the industry. Was sustainability just a fad, or was it the foundation for a new mindset in textile manufacturing?
From product design to the end of a product’s life and disposal — could the industry pivot from largely a cradle-to-grave mentality to a cradle-to-cradle mindset? Was circularity a topic that made for great speeches and presentations, or was it the future of the textile industry?
Recycling as a topic started to take on steam as a sustainability solution once basic challenges were addressed such as which products were reason-able targets for recycling, how could more products fit into a recycling model, and could recycling scale into a manageable manufacturing model.
Those questions are still not fully answered, but this round up highlights just some of the recent investments that go a long way to show that recycling textiles is no longer just speeches and presentations — there are real people, real companies and real investments focused on a circular textile future.
Paris-based Reju is capitalizing on a glycolysis polyester recycling technology to recover and repolymerize polyester from textile waste.
The Hub
Paris-based Reju™ keeps making news. Featured in a recent issue of TW (see “Advancing Textile Circularity: Reju™’s Vision For Sustainable Polyester”, TW, 2024 Quarterly Issue IV), Arnaud Pieton, CEO of Technip Energies, the France-based parent company of Reju, stated: “What has been holding the world back in textile circularity is not a lack of demand for textile recycling, but the lack of a solution that makes recycling of textiles economical on an industrial scale.”
Recently, Reju announced that it has selected the Chemelot Industrial Park for its first industrial scale regeneration center. Located in Sittard, the Netherlands, Chemelot is known as a European industrial park and innovation hub. This announcement follows the opening of Regeneration Hub Zero in Frankfurt late last year.
The company has stated that the new site, named “Regeneration Hub One,” aims to “… regenerate the equivalent of 300 million articles annually that would otherwise end up as textile waste, resulting in a production capacity of 50,000 metric tons of rBHET per year and will then be repolymerized into Reju PET.”
The goal is an output of Reju Polyester, originating from textile waste, that may be reintroduced into the textile lifecycle, through the textile supply chain and into the hands of consumers.
Reju touts its landmark achievements since launch to include:
Opening the first Regeneration Hub in Frankfurt;
Partnering with Goodwill and Waste Management in the United States to will advance textile recycling in North America;
A partnership with Nouvelles Fibres Textiles to automatically sort clothing and disruptors such as zippers and buttons;
A partnership with Cibutex in Europe to establish an ecosystem among member companies; and
A partnership with Rematrix in Europe to secure sustainable textile supply.
As Reju continues its recycling mission, it is clearly a company to monitor for textile recycling innovation and achieving scale.
The Polycotton Challenger
Headquartered in Danville, Va., Circ recently made the news when it announced a new, first-of-its-kind facility to be built in Saint-Avold, France. The facility will recycle previously considered unrecyclable post-consumer and post-industrial polycotton textiles. The facility is targeting a processing capacity of 70,000 metric tons of polycotton material per year.
Regarding the announcement, Circ President Peter Majeranowski, said: “This is the moment we’ve been building toward since Circ was founded. Our first full-scale facility will push circular fashion over the critical tipping point in the global economy, proving that the future of textiles can be decarbonized, closer to waste-free, and regenerative by design. It’s not just a major milestone for Circ, but a breakthrough for the entire circular economy at a time when the planet urgently needs scalable climate solutions.”
Circ has patented hydrothermal technology that separates and recovers both polyester and cotton — an innovative technology that address common poly cotton blended fabrics that are said to make up 77 percent of the global textile market.
Syre
In October 2024, Fayetteville, N.C.-based Selenis — supplier of co-polyesters for a diverse range of applications that is part of the IMG Group — and Stockholm-based Syre, a company focused on hyper-scaling textile-to-textile recycling, announced a strategic partnership to establish a textile-to-textile recycling plant in Cedar Creek, N.C., set to be operational by mid-2025. It is estimated the plant will be able to deliver up to 10,000 metric tons of circular polyester annually.
Syre has big plans. According to the company — founded in 2023 —this announcement keeps it on track with its first “blueprint recycling plant” in 2024 to be operational in 2025. Syre plans to start construction of its first gigascale plant, which will be capable of producing 150,000 to 250,000 metric tons of circular polyester, in 2027. Syre’s future plans focus on the construction of multiple plants worldwide. The goal is to produce 3 million metric tons of circular polyester resulting in more than 15 million metrics tons of carbon dioxide equivalents abated in 2032.
RE&UP, The Netherlands, has partnered with Italy-based Marchi & Fildi S.p.A. to codevelop premium recycled cotton yarns.
RE&UP’ing Their Game
The Netherlands-based RE&UP has its heritage with Türkiye-based Sanko Textile, known for yarn and fabrics for fashion applications.
RE&UP recently announced a partnership with Italy-based Marchi & Fildi S.p.A. to co-develop a new generation of premium recycled cotton yarns. The collaboration— currently at pre-industrial stage — combines RE&UP’s cutting-edge textile-to-textile recycling technology with Marchi & Fildi’s expertise in sustainable yarn development and manufacturing.
Marchi & Fildi produces yarns for fashion, furnishings, and technical end-uses, and has a long history in Italy’s Biella textiles district. The company has grown into an international group with plants in in Italy, Turkey and Brazil.
The partnership focuses on the codevelopment of a “new generation of premium recycled cotton yarns.”
Los Angeles-based Ambercycle recently inked a cooperation agreement with Highsun Holding Group to focus on scaling textile-to-textile closed-loop recycling systems.
Ambercycle Forms More Partnerships
Los Angeles-based Ambercycle continues to expand its recycling mission. Established in 2015, the company uses molecular regeneration technology and produces a flag-ship regenerated polyester product called cycora®.
Ambercycle has a track record of significant partnerships with companies including South Korea-based Hyosung TNC and Taiwan-based Shinkong Synthetic Fibers Corp.
Recently the company joined with Highsun Holding Group (HSCC). Co-founder and CEO of Ambercycle, Shay Sethi, said of the partnership with HSCC: “Scaling textile-to-textile solutions requires deep partnerships, innovation, and development of the global apparel value chain to work in harmony with the planet. By partnering with HSCC, we’re establishing a foundational partnership for circular systems to work at scale. This is how we turn circularity from an industry-wide ambition into a global reality.”
Renewing Cellulose Fiber
Circulose AB, with its history beginning with Sweden-based textile recycling company Renewcell, has recently reached a strategic partner-ship agreement with China-based cellulose fiber producer Tangshan Sanyou Chemical Fiber.
According to Circulose, this collaboration marks a significant milestone in the commercialization and scaling of CIRCULOSE® fiber, while also driving Tangshan Sanyou’s brand toward greater international recognition. The two companies will work together to ensure that ReVisco™ fibers, produced using CIRCULOSE pulp, maintain a focus on “quality, supply capacity, and pricing, thereby advancing both brands in the high-quality and innovative development of circular and renewable materials.”
“Tangshan Sanyou has always believed in the strong potential of recycling cotton textile waste, which is essential for fostering a green and sustainable industry,” said Zhang Dongbin, executive vice president of Tangshan Sanyou Chemical Fiber. “We have unwavering confidence in the market potential of CIRCULOSE and its new strategic direction, and we are excited about our future collaboration.”
Separating Elastic From Nylon
Earlier this year, Italy-based Aquafil announced, “the world’s first demonstration plant capable of chemically separating elastic fibers from nylon.”
This innovative technology addresses the complex challenge of elastic/nylon separation, which according to the company, opens the door to new possibilities in recycling and circularity.
According to Aquafil, in 2013 it partnered with the Georgia Institute of Technology to study solutions for recycling mixed fibers, which in its words was “a task long deemed insurmountable.”
In 2022, with a new patent filing, a refined process brought the company closer to a solution. Nylon recovered using the process will be regenerated at Aquafil’s ECONYL® plant.
Of this achievement, Aquafil CEO Giulio Bonazzi said, “This milestone demonstrates how cutting-edge technology can tackle even the toughest environmental challenges — turning waste into value and advancing the shift to a truly circular economy.”
Spain-based Recover™, has opened a 14,000-square-foot facility in Vietnam that will focus on producing RMix, its cotton/polyester recycled product.
Recovering Poly Cotton Blends Without Separation
Spain-based Recover™, a producer of recycled cotton fiber and cotton fiber blends, announced the opening of a manufacturing facility in Vietnam late last year.
The 14,000-square-meter plant will utilize Recover’s recycling technology initially operating with two state-of-the-art recycling lines. Annual production capacity of 10,000 metric tons is anticipated.
One of the facility’s primary products will be RMix, Recover’s recycling solution for cotton-polyester blends, which eliminates the need to separate fibers, overcoming a long-standing industry challenge in polycotton recycling, according to the company.
The location in Vietnam’s Dong Nai province was chosen because of Vietnam’s substantial role in the global textile industry as the third-largest textile exporter worldwide. Recover reported: “This latest facility in Vietnam represents the next step in the company’s ambitious expansion plans, aiming to expand to new global markets.”
Recover’s first expansion beyond Spain was a second plant in 2022 located in Bangladesh.
Samsara Eco recently announced it had secured a commercialization partner. The Australia-based company, recently profiled in TW, (see “Samsara Eco: Commercializing Nylon 6,6 Recycling,” TW, 2025 Quarterly Issue I) is partnering with KBR Sustainable Technology Solutions to design its first-of-a-kind plastics and textile enzymatic recycling plant, which is set for completion in early 2028.
According to Samsara, “Samsara Eco’s enzymatic recycling technology aims to create a continuous recycling loop for some of the most common types of plastic and synthetic fiber materials that have traditionally been difficult or impossible to recycle. Powered by Samsara Eco’s proprietary AI platform, the company’s patented enzymes break down plastic to its original building blocks (monomers) which aim to allow plastics to be continuously remanufactured into new products without degradation in quality and with a low carbon footprint.”
Under the agreement, KBR will perform a front-end engineering design, or pre-FEED, for the project by the end of the second quarter of 2025. The company’s technical and commercial experts will then deliver a FEED engineering package for the process design to build a 20,000 metric tons per year commercial facility for nylon 6,6.
“KBR is uniquely equipped to deliver world-class solutions that help our customers bring sustainable technology to market, and we are thrilled to support Samsara Eco on this unique opportunity,” Jay Ibrahim, president, KBR.
Notably, last year, Samsara introduced the first enzymatically recycled nylon 6,6 product in partnership with clothing brand lululemon — the iconic Swiftly Tech Long-Sleeve Top. It also launched the first product made from enzymatically recycled polyester, creating lululemon’s limited edition Packable Anorak jacket.
Denim from the Wrangler x Accelerating Circularity jeans collection.
Accelerating Circularity
It is hard to discuss the impact of textile recycling without mentioning Campbell Hall, N.Y. based Accelerating Circularity.
Founded in 2019, the nonprofit organization has been on a mission to refashion the textile industry with a focus on new supply chains and business models that turn textile waste into mainstream raw materials and, with a stakeholder approach, set in motion a circular textile economy.
Accelerating Circularity achievements in building coalitions, receiving notable grants, and publishing findings are worth commending.
Recently, the Wrangler x Accelerating Circularity jeans collaboration was announced in conjunction with Walmart.
According to Accelerating Circularity: “The Wrangler x Accelerating Circularity jeans contain 26-percent recycled cotton — 50-percent post-consumer, 50-percent post-industrial — alongside virgin cotton and elastane for stretch, setting a new bench-mark for post-consumer recycled content in commercially available denim. This project was made possible through collaboration across the textile supply chain trial members, including collection by Bank & Vogue (post-consumer) and Martex (post-industrial); mechanical recycling by Giotex & Estopas; yarn production by Parkdale; and fabric production by Cone Denim.”
Karla Magruder, founder of Accelerating Circularity, commented on the project saying: “This launch is a proof point that circularity is not just a concept — it’s happening now. Through collaboration across the supply chain, we’ve shown that used textiles can become a viable feed-stock for new products at scale.”
As brands, retailers, and manufacturers take interest and participate, recycling textiles may just be no longer just be a topic of speeches and presentations, and circular textile future might just be taking hold.
Established in 2014, Zimmer America Recycling Solutions has found a foothold providing recycling equipment focused on PET — from single machines to complete recycling systems.
By James M. Borneman, Editor In Chief
To many in the textile industry, the name Zimmer is synonymous with textile printing. The family’s contribution to rotary screen printing is notable, and later developments for digital printing are significant.
More recently, Roland Zimmer has charted a new course — one focused on bringing technologies to bear for the daunting task of plastic recycling.
In 1970, Zimmer established roots in the United States as a subsidiary of Zimmer Austria functioning as Johannes Zimmer Service and Sales, the U.S. branch of the Austria-based headquarters. Zimmer America Corp. was established in 1985 by Roland J.P. Zimmer.
Rotary textile printing is a significant segment in the global textile industry, and throughout the 1970s, 80s and 90s was the gold standard for applying artist’s designs to fabrics in apparel, bedding, home furnishings and military apparel, among other applications. Zimmer’s rotary printing machines, with their “open bearing” design, evolved with innovations that brought speed, efficiency and flexibility to the robust textile printing segment. Later developments brought digital printing to the fore with transformational change, and in the context of the printed textile segment, revolutionized the way textiles are printed.
In a turn of the page, Roland established Zimmer America Recycling Solutions in 2014. This marked a new direction for Zimmer that built on the company’s industrial solutions mentality of representing, selling, installing, and servicing industrial machinery and technology.
Whether for industrial cleaning, plastic technologies, textile solutions or consulting, Roland Zimmer has embraced a broad array of opportunities that benefit from his core competencies.
He recently sat down with Textile Worldto share some of the challenges and benefits of his textile legacy and the many opportunities that lie ahead.
TW: You have a long and very personal history in textiles. When did you develop an interest in recycling and how did it complement your experience bringing textile technologies to industry?
Zimmer: Good question and it really happened in a kind of natural way. In a sense, you know the history, the demand for textile machinery was steadily going down and sometimes faster than acceptable.
Since the late 80s early 90s, I was faced with the fact that textile machinery was less and less in demand and we had to look around, of course, for some other machinery. I made a connection with somebody that worked in the machinery industry who did washing lines for textile washing — continuous wash ranges. There was another company developing washing lines for plastics, and I had a personal connection to a man who joined this new company. He opened my eyes to this completely new industry with plastic recycling washing lines, and I looked at that and said, “you know, it’s interesting.”
I knew nothing about plastic recycling, but I thought there was a very strong parallel here.
TW: What does this new direction share with your textile experience, and what is different?
Zimmer: The parallel is that it’s machinery that has something in the beginning, coming in — not virgin like the printing machine — but a plastic, in this case, plastic to be recycled.
And then there’s a process that takes place, and it’s quite a complex process that takes place in the washing line.
There is a plastic washing line, and at the end something else comes out and then in the middle, you have bearings and rolls and all kinds of things that I was very familiar with from the textile printing industry. It’s another process in another industry, but it has an infeed, it has an exit, and it has a process in between, so I was able mentally make the bridge to completely understand what we are talking about.
TW: So, you were comfortable with the connection? Controlling a process, for example?
Zimmer: The connection is that we use the same Siemens S 7 PLC for controlling the process that we were using on the printing machines as is used on the recycling equipment to control the process.
Another interesting aspect was that some of the folks I was dealing with for years, especially the carpet manufacturers in Dalton, Ga., were very active in recycling. They discovered plastic as a resource for making polyester fiber out of recycled plastic, and you know that right now they are some of the large players in the plastic recycling world because they buy plastic bottles and have their own processing of making fibers. Then these fibers end up in carpet.
This was a market I knew very well from the carpet printing market and all of a sudden, it turns out these carpet printers are not just carpet printers using the Zimmer CHROMOJET, but they’re also fiber makers using recycled plastic bottles to make carpet. It was a very astonishing sequence of events that led me into the polyethylene terephthalate (PET) recycling world.
TW: What recycling technologies is Zimmer America focused on and how are is the technology used?
Zimmer: It starts really at the core of the recycling of PET.This is a widely used plastic material in the container industry for bottles — so every plastic bottle of Coke, Pepsi and water, and anything else you can think of is basically PET because this material won the battle against other plastics for this application.
The advantage is that PET has a 100 percent recyclable property in the sense that out of a recycled, shredded, pelletized and extruded plastic, I can make another plastic bottle. This 100 percent recyclability is what makes it so attractive.
TW: In the beginning, what machinery interested you?
Zimmer: A Germany-based company called STF developed their own recycling. Interesting, not only making machinery, but also developed as a recycler.
The line of machinery and the way STF recycles PET plastic is mechanical, so there’s some water involved, there is some friction involved and transportation from one tank to another involved, but it’s a very, very simple process. It’s basically an oversized washing machine, not unlike a washing machine at your house.This basically mechanical process is relatively simple, and it takes a little time, some heat, some water, and at the end of the day you’re washing the flakes of a plastic bottle to a clean state.
Then there is another process — solid state polymerization, or SSP —that uses heat, time and a vacuum to remove all impurities embedded in the PET after the washing. The molecular structure of PET is rebuilt because overtime, and with some ultraviolet exposure, these molecular chains break.
Another important part is reestablishing and adjusting the intrinsic viscosity, or IV. This must be corrected in the PET before it becomes pellets in order to make new bottles out of it. Because the bottle blowing and filling lines are very high-speed processes and things happen very quickly. For that reason, the IV must be exactly correct.
So, at the end of the day, the recycled PET and the virgin PET molecule look exactly the same and the properties are also the same. That’s why it’s 100 percent recyclable, because you can make another bottle out of it.
TW: How was a relationship with STF developed?
Zimmer: As I came to know STF, I also found out that they are not present in the United States. When I visited the first time I said “Look, I’m very familiar with you being a European, with what you do here as European machinery manufacturers, and I’m very familiar with this American market. And I noticed that you have no activity in the United States yet.” I told STF that I would very much like to take my know-how of the U.S. market and how industrial companies buy machinery from Europe and from other industrial companies. That’s how the relationship started.
STF went for it, and they said,“Well, we are where we thought about doing something in America, but we haven’t done anything yet.” So, I said “Let me do it. I’ll do it for you.”
TW: Among others, Zimmer has taken on two large projects — one in the Dominican Republic, and one in Hilo, Hawaii. Can you share some details about these projects?
Zimmer: These two projects represent ideal customers in that both are new to recycling. These companies have different backgrounds.
The company in the Dominican Republic is in the waste space. It has waste sorting lines for household waste, so general and household waste including plastics, and they are expanding. It holds, sorts, and sells reusable and recyclable waste items. It is building a complete plant for taking the PET or the plastic content, out of the municipal household waste. Municipal waste consists of a lot of plastic. There’s some paper and organic matter also, but PET — as a plastic for all kinds of containers — has become such a major portion of household waste. More and more people are recognizing that if we already sort the waste and now here we have all this plastic, why don’t we go the next step and take the plastic and make a new product — for example, recyclable PET bottles —and that’s what this customer in the Domincan Republic is doing.
The customer in Hawaii is the premium bottled water company Waiakea. It produces water bottles every day and sells them all over the United States. It has the idea to be circular in its own production. It wants to make sure is that every bottle in Hawaii gets recycled back into a bottle. This is the first Hawaii-based PET recycling factory that we are building in Hilo towards that goal.
Dirk Leiber (center), worldwide sales director, STF Group, and Roland Zimmer (right) at the 2025 Plastics Recycling Conference.
TW: What do you observe about the future of recycling?
Zimmer: The fact of the matter is that recycling plastic is in its very, very infancy — not only in America, but worldwide. We are producing a tremendous amount of plastic every year and it’s increasing because China is a big player now in plastic.
I think in America, the statistic is that from all plastic that is sold in various forms and shapes, including bottles and non-bottle plastic, I think we are under — way, way, way, under — 10 percent recycled.
That means that 90 percent of the plastic ends up in the landfill, and what I want is for this to change.
There are only two U.S. states that have said they will be part of the change. Obviously, I can’t change that personally, but I can be part of the change to a circular economy where we understand that plastic originates from a natural resource that is limited.
The way we should look at that resource is that whatever we make out of it — for example, plastic — should be first-of-all, easy to recycle — which a bottle is. But we should live in a world where we can maintain our enormous appetite for new plastic largely with the plastic we have already made once before and become a real circular economy. That’s the goal.
TW: What opportunities lie ahead and what part will they play in textiles?
Zimmer: The industry is now concerning itself with textile recycling for the same reason. I already spoke about carpet producers, which previously used mostly nylon. They have switched in the last 10 years and PET is now used in about 50 percent of commercial carpet, which again brings attention to the recyclability of PET.
Recycling is becoming a thing, slowly. And now textiles, since some are made using PET, are very interesting to watch.Textiles are things to be recycled, but how do you recycle textiles? It’s not easy because textiles are made from different items and a textile garment may be made using not a singular component, so maybe it’s not only PET. But I think textiles is the next frontier for recycling.
I think also that as so-called extended producer responsibility gets talked about more and more, and in the plastic world, extended producer responsibility is really becoming synonymous with a circular economy.
TW: Is extended producer responsibility (EPR) a change agent?
Zimmer: EPR is just a way to try to make the producers of things more responsible at the end of life of the products because we all realized that we can’t fill up those big holes in the earth with everything that we throw away.
So, we wait and see. This shift needs to be happening in the way we look at our resources —the continuous use of resources, not being end of life, buried in landfill etc.
Whatever you do, have the circularity of your production in mind whatever it is. We must get used to the idea that for everything we produce, the resources we use to make them have an eventual end, right?
So how can we reuse them, and not fill up a place with garbage? This world is beautiful planet, and to produce things with the idea of using those things many, many, times down the road is the way.
Editor’s Note: STF Group, with a focus on PET post-consumer bottles, is a manufacturer of plastic recycling and washing machinery and has delivered some 60 plants worldwide. Reportedly, STF recycles more than 130,000 tons of PET bottles per year into high quality flakes in its own plants in Germany and is considered one of Europe largest recyclers. Zimmer Austria continues to offer textile coating ranges, digital, flat bed and rotary screen-printing machinery and loop steamers. It is represented by Fi-Tech Inc., Midlothian,Va.
UNIFI® is growing its stable of branded fibers with the addition of Fortisyn™.
TW Special Report
Unifi Inc., Greensboro, N.C.,has established itself as a leader in the production of recycled fibers and yarns, and most recently extended its know-how and expertise in fiber science to develop Fortisyn™. This abrasion-resistant yarn, available in a virgin nylon 6,6 or recycled REPREVE® nylon 6 version, was engineered for durability in military uniforms and tactical applications and meets ASTMD2261, ASTMD5034, and ASTMD3884 standards. Unifi notes that performance benefits and claims are based on fabric construction and product selection and these claims are reflective of 500D Fortisyn yarn testing in fabric form. Because it’s made in the United States, Fortisyn also is compliant with Berry Amendment applications.
According to Unifi, fabrics made using Fortisyn offer enhanced tear and tensile strength, and can with-stand exposure to harsh conditions and rough handling while maintaining form, function and appearance over time. “Fortisyn uses proprietary air-jet texturing technology to engineer built-in durability and abrasion resistance,” said Meredith Boyd, executive vice president and chief product officer, Unifi Inc.
According to Boyd, the two Fortisyn offerings meet differing end-product requirements. “Certain product specifications require nylon 6,6 whereas other applications, such as for rugged tactical gear, do not have polymer type specifications,” Boyd noted. “The diversity of needs in this application area led Unifi to develop Fortisyn technology in both nylon polymer types including a sustainable offering.”
Solution-Dyed Option
For enhanced colorfastness, the yarn can be supplied in solution-dyed form, which offers a broad range of color options. With its solution-dyeing capabilities, Unifi can also develop custom colors to meet specific customer needs. Solution dyeing is also a sustainable option. “The solution dyeing process, which incorporates pigments during the melt-extrusion stage, significantly reduces water and energy consumption compared to traditional dyeing methods,” Boyd noted.
Testing was performed to ensure the necessary properties are achieved for both Fortisyn variants. “Fortisyn has undergone comprehensive testing in collaboration with mills and strategic development partners,” Boyd said. “These tests, conducted at the fabric level, validate the yarn’s claims.
Fortisyn is also compatible with other Unifi yarn technologies, although any such combinations must be tested in fabric form to make sure they meet any necessary specifications.
In addition, Fortisyn made with Repreve Nylon is fully traceable using FiberPrint® U-TRUST® along with Oeko-Tex® GRS and SCS certifications for recycled content.
Enhancing The Product Line
Summing up the yarn’s value proposition, Boyd said: “Fortisyn offers a unique combination of performance, sustainability and domestic availability.”
The introduction of Fortisyn reflects Unifi’s commitment to innovation, sustainability and meeting the evolving needs of its customers. “Customers value Fortisyn for its quality, consistency and the technical support provided by Unifi,” Boyd concluded.
DURHAM, N.C.— June 13, 2025 — The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) has launched a new test method, TM217-2025, Liquid Moisture Management: Vertical and Horizontal Wicking — Image Analysis.
