BRUSSELS — June 12, 2025 — The first Textiles Recycling Expo took place in Brussels on 4-5 June 2025 and has been heralded as a landmark gathering for the industry, bringing together key stakeholders and promoting discussion, collaboration and innovation.
The event attracted 126 exhibitors and 3,336 visitors from 67 countries, making it the largest ever meeting focused on textiles recycling. The audience came from across Europe and beyond, with 12% travelling from Africa, Asia and America.
Attendees represented the complete supply chain, from major waste management organisations and pioneering recyclers through to textile manufacturers and leading clothing and retail brands. The latter included sustainability specialists from companies such as Aldi, Burberry, C&A, Chanel, Decathlon, Diesel, Gucci, H&M, Hermes, Ikea, Lidl, M&S, Nike, Oxfam, Patagonia, Primark, Puma, Tommy Hilfiger, Uniqlo and Zara. With leading brands, innovators, and policymakers converging under one roof, the expo emphasized the need for collaborative action to promote sustainability, adopt effective recycling technologies, and build a circular economy.
Aurel Ciobanu-Dordea, Director for Circular Economy at the European Commission, gave the opening presentation and remarked on both the energy of the event and the impressive technologies on display. The buzz at the expo was reflected in numerous comments on LinkedIn and social media, including attendees describing it as “bustling, energetic and full of momentum”, and as “a breakthrough week for circular fashion”.
Event Manager, Zied Chetoui said: “We are thrilled with the overwhelming response to the first-ever Textiles Recycling Expo. The enthusiastic participation certainly demonstrates the industry’s commitment to sustainability and innovation. This event has undoubtedly laid a strong foundation for the future of textile recycling and set a high standard for what we can achieve together.”
The exhibition featured a global array of suppliers of cutting-edge technologies and services to increase textiles recycling rates. Highlights included live demonstrations of innovative sorting systems by Valvan and NewRetex.
Another popular feature was the conference theatre, which was packed out throughout the two-day event. More than 50 expert speakers discussed the latest developments in regulations, technologies, recycling projects and practical ways to increase waste recovery rates.
The exhibition benefited from the widespread support of key industry associations, organisations and consortia, including ReHubs, EURATEX, Accelerating Circularity, Fedustria, Denim Deal, EuRIC and the Textile Recycling Association. Several took part in the expo’s Industry Alliance Hub, which provided a lively meeting place for promoting discussion and collaboration.
The Textiles Recycling Expo has not only highlighted the critical importance of recycling in the textile sector but also inspired new collaborations and initiatives aimed at creating a more sustainable future and truly reflects the exciting momentum that is building for the industry
The next Textiles Recycling Expo will take place in Charlotte, NC, USA on 29-30 April 2026, and the European event will return to Brussels Expo on 24-25 June 2026. Spaces at both exhibitions are already filling up fast.
PARIS — June 16, 2025 — Hexcel Corporation, a global supplier of advanced composite materials, celebrated 50 years of supply to Embraer during a celebration at the Paris Air Show, marked by the signing of a preferred supplier agreement for composite raw materials. This milestone underscores the enduring collaboration and mutual commitment to innovation and excellence in aerospace technology.
“We are honored to celebrate 50 years of supply to Embraer, a relationship that has been built on trust, innovation, and shared vision,” said Tom Gentile, Chairman, President and CEO of Hexcel, during a ceremony at the 55th International Paris Air Show. “Hexcel’s advanced composite materials have been integral to the performance and efficiency of Embraer’s aircraft, and we look forward to continuing this journey together.”
“Hexcel has been a key partner in our mission to deliver our aircraft with safety first and quality always,” added Roberto Chaves, Executive Vice-President of Global Procurement & Supply Chain of Embraer. “Their commitment to quality, collaboration and innovation has contributed to the sustainable growth of our businesses. We are excited to recognize Hexcel as a preferred supplier. Through this partnership, we are shaping the future of the aerospace industry.”
Hexcel has been a longstanding provider of a range of advanced composite materials to Embraer, including prepregs, engineered core, and advanced structures. These materials are used in various Embraer aircraft platforms, such as the C-390 military transport, the E-Jet E2 family of narrowbody regional aircraft, and the Phenom 300 business jet.
Hexcel’s history with Embraer is marked by numerous achievements, including the recent recognition as Supplier of the Year in the Standards & Materials Category. This award is a testament to Hexcel’s dedication to delivering high-quality materials and exceptional service.
As both companies celebrated 50 years of collaboration, they reaffirmed their commitment to advancing aerospace technology and creating a sustainable future for the industry through future development and demonstration programs.
“We have had fantastic record of collaboration and excellence over the last 50 years,” concluded Gentile. “Hexcel’s vertically integrated supply chain, global manufacturing expertise, and world-class composites technologies have enhanced the performance and reliability of Embraer’s aircraft, and our commitment is to help Embraer advance the future of aviation for the next 50 years and beyond.”
MUMBAI, MAHARASHTRA — June 16, 2025 — Drawing 10,283 visitors from 230 Indian cities and five countries, Gartex Texprocess India 2025 reaffirmed its stature as a key business platform for the Indian textile industry. Featuring 125 exhibitors and covering the entire value chain, the expo served as a robust platform for textile technologies, innovations and sourcing. Organised by Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd, the event also incorporated The Denim Show, Screen Print India – Textiles, and the Fabrics & Trims Show, offering industry stakeholders a unified source for knowledge exchange and business networking.
At the forefront was India’s rapidly transforming textile manufacturing landscape, with automation, sustainability, and innovation steering the conversation. Leading buyers and manufacturing brands engaged in direct sourcing and dialogue with top machinery suppliers and fabric producers.
The expo was inaugurated by Shri Sanjay Savkare, Hon’ble Minister of Textiles, Government of Maharashtra, who emphasized the state’s focus on strengthening local manufacturing of globally sourced components and machinery. Uttar Pradesh participated as the State Partner, represented by Shri Shashank Chaudhary (IAS), Additional CEO, Invest UP, who elaborated on the textile-centric initiatives by the UP government and presented a dedicated knowledge session for industry stakeholders.
From across borders, the Taiwan Sewing Machinery Association (TSMA) participated with a pavilion of eight companies. Mr Steven Fang, Chairman, TSMA, stated: “We saw a good visitor turnout from all over India. We see a big market here and would like to continue with our participation in the upcoming editions.”
Denim Industry’s Sustainable Shift
The Denim Show attracted major manufacturers and presented a variety of new denim collections, eco-conscious dyes, screen-printing solutions, and accessory lines. More than 30 denim mills showcased at the show, engaging buyers like Aditya Birla Digital Fashion Venture Ltd, Levi’s Strauss India Pvt Ltd, Walmart, The Souled Store, and more.
Mr Vasudev Tipre, GM Exports, Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills, shared: “Automation has improved efficiency. We supply leading global brands, with 50% exports to Asia and South America. The exhibition’s blend of fabric and machinery segments makes this a valuable platform.”
Mr Sourav Jalan, Director and Promoter, Syama Denims, noted: “This is a good opportunity to interact with new-age D2C brands who often don’t get a chance to meet mills directly. Gartex always brings customers and suppliers under one roof, and we’ve been happy to return year after year.”
Mr Aamir Akhtar, Group President and CEO, Jindal Worldwide Ltd, added: “We use water-saving technologies in our new premium line, ‘Formula 1,’ and recover used water through a zero-liquid discharge plant. The experience here is very well organised — a benchmark for the Indian trade.”
Mr Harish Agarwal, Owner, Bhagwati Chemicals, stated: “The show gave us strong leads beyond denims. With four decades of experience in supplying dyes and chemicals, this platform proved beneficial to us, especially with deep technical inquiries from buyers.”
Mr B Vinod Kumar, General Manager – Denim & Casual Bottoms, Arvind Fashions, remarked: “Massive machines were showcased, which we usually can’t see outside manufacturing setups. Bringing that to a common platform is a job well done.”
Mr Sreehari Krishnan, Director – Plant Operations & Quality, Bewakoof Brands Pvt Ltd, shared: “We came to explore denims and printing accessories. There are amazing new developments like HD stickers and embroidery, and lightweight dobby denim fabrics perfect for summers.”
Product Technology & Innovation in Focus
Expressing their satisfaction on the show, exhibitors also highlighted breakthrough machinery and processes driving efficiency, sustainability and cost savings in textile production. Mr Nitin Mathur, Regional Sales Manager, IIGM Private Limited: “The exhibition saw excellent footfall and strong interest in automation, even among small businesses, as labour costs rise.”
Mr Sai Navneethan, Regional Head – Sustainable Products, Ramsons Garment Finishing Equipment Pvt Ltd, “Automation is key for high-volume garment finishing. PLC-controlled systems also create more opportunities for women to lead in operations.”
Ms Ujjwala Upadhyay, Brand Manager, Insight Print Communications Pvt Ltd represented Mimaki’s dye sublimation machines. She said: “We are here to connect with potential clients across sportswear, home furnishings, and signage. With growing focus on sustainability, consumers are looking at the ethos of the organisations while buying. This year, we’ve seen strong footfall at Gartex.”
Mr S Eswaran, Product Head-Duerkopp Adler & PFAFF, Mehala Machines presented automation solutions from Duerkopp Adler, Germany, noting significant visitor engagement and interest in their offerings. He stated: “Gartex Texprocess India Mumbai edition was very well organised. The location of our stall is also good as we received a very good visitor turnout. We had also invited many of our potential clients and most of them visited were interested to find out automation solutions.”
Backed by strong industry support, especially from the Denim Manufacturers Association, Gartex Texprocess India continues to evolve as a robust sourcing and innovation hub. This year’s edition welcomed representatives from Aditya Birla Group, Brands and Sourcing Leaders Association, Coreco, Recyclr, Technopak Advisors, TMRW, House of Brands, Walmart Sourcing and WROGN Pvt Ltd, among many others.
The next edition of Gartex Texprocess India will take place from 21–23 August 2025 at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi and the Mumbai edition is scheduled from 09 – 11 April 2026 at Bombay Exhibition Centre.
DURHAM, N.C.— June 13, 2025 — The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) has launched a new test method, TM217-2025, Liquid Moisture Management: Vertical and Horizontal Wicking — Image Analysis.
The method was developed to support improved understanding of liquid wicking and moisture transport in textile fabrics, aligning with advancements in imaging-based instrumentation. It was created in consultation with textile test instrument designer and manufacturer, James Heal.
The test method employs imaging technology and data analysis to measure, evaluate, and classify moisture movement in textiles both vertically and horizontally. This approach provides a dualistic assessment of performance under wear conditions.
If you would like to drive the industry forward by helping to create innovative new standards through research committee involvement reach out to AATCC Technical Department for more details at standardsmatter@aatcc.org
AATCC Delivers End-to-End Support for Textile Testing with Training, Supplies, and Technical Expertise
AATCC plays a leading role in the development of internationally recognized textile testing standards. Through a collaborative, consensus-based process, AATCC brings together global experts from industry, academia, and government to create rigorous, science-based test methods. These standards ensure consistency, reliability, and innovation in textile quality and performance across international markets.
Building on this foundation, AATCC offers a comprehensive suite of products and services that bring these standards to life. From On-site Test Method Training and Textile Testing Fundamentals to the Global Trainers Program, Proficiency Testing, Testing Supplies, and expert Technical Staff Support, AATCC empowers professionals worldwide to implement best practices and maintain the highest levels of material performance. AATCC is the trusted partner for textile professionals worldwide.
AATCC Technical Department: Your Direct Line to Expert Support
AATCC’s Technical Department Staff are available to assist members and customers with questions related to test methods, product usage, and standards interpretation. Whether you’re troubleshooting a test procedure, selecting the right reference fabric, or preparing for an audit, AATCC’s experts are here to help.
Support Services Include:
Clarification of AATCC test methods and procedures
Guidance on selecting appropriate testing supplies and materials
Assistance with proficiency testing and laboratory performance feedback
Technical insights into research, development, and compliance
AATCC Services and Products: Trusted Solutions for the Textile Industry
On-site Test Method Training
Hands-on, customized instruction delivered at your facility. AATCC delivers expert-led, hands-on instruction directly at company facilities. This customizable program allowed organizations to select the date, location, and AATCC test methods most relevant to their needs. With small group sizes, interactive lab sessions, and flexible scheduling, the training offers a tailored learning experience designed to enhance staff expertise and testing accuracy.
Textile Testing Fundamentals
Offered in collaboration with the Zeis Textiles Extension Department of the Wilson College of Textiles at North Carolina State University, this on-demand online course is designed for anyone looking to deepen their understanding of textile technology. Whether you’re new to the industry or seeking a refresher, Textile Fundamentals provides accessible, expert-led instruction to build a strong foundation in textile science.
Testing Supplies & Reference Materials
AATCC offers a comprehensive selection of standardized testing materials to ensure consistency and reliability in textile evaluation. These include control fabrics, reference detergents, gray scales for color change and staining, chromatic transference scales, and other essential tools specified in AATCC test methods. All materials are developed or selected to meet the rigorous specifications outlined in AATCC standards, supporting accurate, reproducible results across a wide range of performance tests.
Proficiency Testing Program
AATCC’s Proficiency Testing Programs (PTP) are designed to support laboratory certification and drive continuous improvement. Each program provides carefully selected samples that yield consistent, meaningful results across a range of test methods and evaluation procedures. Participating labs can benchmark their performance, validate accuracy, and demonstrate a commitment to high-quality, reliable testing.
AATCC Global Trainers Program – Expanding Textile Testing Expertise Worldwide
The AATCC Global Trainers Program empowers a network of qualified professionals to deliver standardized, high-quality instruction in AATCC test methods across the globe. Trainers are carefully selected and certified by AATCC to ensure consistency, technical accuracy, and excellence in textile testing education. Through this program, AATCC extends its reach, enabling local access to expert-led training that supports global harmonization of testing practices and promotes continuous professional development in the textile industry.
Together, these offerings provide a comprehensive ecosystem for textile professionals—from education and training to testing, quality assurance, and expert support.
Posted: June 16, 2025
Source: The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
SINGAPORE — June 16, 2025 — ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025 has released the eagerly awaited exhibitor list on a new mobile app available for users of both Android and IOS devices.
Although the sales application period has closed, new space applications have continued to stream in, signaling strong confidence from exhibitors in the leading textile machinery showcase.
The four-day exhibition at Singapore Expo has attracted over 770 exhibitors from 31 countries and regions. Spanning 70,000 square metres of gross exhibition space, it features 19 product sectors that represents the entire textile manufacturing value chain.
To enhance the visitor experience, ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025’s new companion mobile app enables visitors to curate their own itinerary with a bookmark feature. A built-in wayfinder system lets visitors plan the shortest routes for booth visits with minimal fuss. This is also a handy feature for exhibitors to quickly locate potential partners for networking opportunities.
Currently, the exhibitor listing is only available on the mobile app and an online version will be released on the ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025 website in end June.
ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025 is owned by CEMATEX (the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers) and its Chinese partners comprising China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) and the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT TEX).
The exhibition is organised by ITMA Services Pte Ltd and co-organised by Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co., Ltd (BJITME). Japan Textile Machinery Association (JTMA) is a special partner.
Visitors hoping to enjoy the online early bird rates for badge purchases can still do so before 28 September on www.itmaasiasingapore.com.
Outgoing NCTO Chairman Charles Heilig outlined the U.S. textile industry’s major challenges and achievements last year during his “State of the U.S. Textile Industry” address during NCTO’s 21st annual meeting in Washington.
By Charles Heilig
As we all know, the last few years have been challenging, both within our businesses and here in Washington. I would like to provide an overview of some of the major issues our industry faced as well as the progress we made, and achievements accomplished last year.
The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) represents the full spectrum of the U.S. textile industry — a production chain that employs 471,000 workers nationwide and produces $64 billion in output annually. Our industry is a key contributor to our national defense and supplies over 8,000 products a year to the military. It is also a leading high-tech innovator supplying cutting-edge solutions and end products in diverse fields such as heart valves and stents to aircraft components and advanced body armor.
Our industry’s resilience and innovation is unparalleled and strong, despite economic and trade headwinds that have impacted our sector and our customers.
The breadth of challenges we face every day is astonishing — economic downturns, predatory trade practices, such as the use of forced labor in supply chains, ill-conceived trade policies, inadequate customs enforcement of trade fraud, post-pandemic inventory
related issues, freight and logistics challenges, and race-to-the-bottom business models that — all combined — are suppressing growth and investment, leading to a persistent and severe downturn in business.
There is no doubt we have experienced a very challenging three-year-cycle and our domestic production has been harmed as a result.
With all that in mind, I am reminded of a comment Kennesaw State University’s top economist Roger Tutterow said at a past NCTO meeting.
I’m paraphrasing here but he noted: “A market disruption like this takes years to rebalance,” and that is what we are all experiencing.
Recognizing that we are in a pro-longed market disruption, the challenge we now face is to effectively respond not only with improvements to our business models, but also in the policy arena to ensure we will rebound and continue to expand as an industry.
To confront these challenges, NCTO and industry leaders launched an aggressive lobbying campaign over the past year to raise awareness about the myriad trade policies impacting the industry and the importance of our sector to the economy.
I can’t stress how important and invaluable NCTO is to each of our members individually and to the industry as a whole. It is our collective voice where we make a meaningful difference for companies and employees.
And our voices are being heard at the highest levels of the administration and on Capitol Hill.
Cabinet secretaries and members of Congress elevated the textile industry’s importance to the economy and national defense base at congressional hearings, conferences, in the press and in countless letters — all due to our diligent and effective work through executive fly-ins, high-level meetings, policy analysis, letters and press engagement throughout the year.
Before highlighting NCTO’s policy wins in 2024, I want to quickly share a “by the numbers” recap of the key data points that highlight our industry’s resilience and staying power.
By The Numbers
Despite the economic downturn and unfair trade practices impacting the industry in 2024, our metrics remained stable or registered only slight declines, with the exception of employment in the cotton and wool sectors. This again underscores the industry’s ability to adapt during challenging times and remain viable even while registering painful losses.
In 2024, the value of U.S. man-made fiber, textile and apparel shipments totaled an estimated $63.9 billion compared with $64.8 billion in 2023.1
Here are additional key industry facts:
U.S. exports of fibers, textiles and apparel were $28 billion in 2024 compared with $29.7 billion in 2023.2
The United States remains the second largest individual country exporter of textile products in the world.
The U.S. textile and apparel industry invested $3 billion in new plants and equipment in 2022, which is the last year data was available for this figure.3
The bottom line is many key fundamentals for the U.S. textile industry remained sound, while some weakened due to the economic and trade headwinds I mentioned a few moments ago.
Policy Issues
Now I would like to highlight a few accomplishments the NCTO staff achieved during the year.
NCTO actively promoted policies to expand the U.S. textile industry at home and in key overseas markets, such as the Western Hemisphere — which accounts for 70 percent of U.S. yarn and fabric exports and supports more than 2.6 million workers throughout this hemisphere — including efforts to preserve yarn-forward rules on origin and broaden export opportunities.
Customs Enforcement
In the area of customs enforcement, NCTO and industry leaders met with Department of Homeland Security (DHS) Secretary Alejandro Mayoras in early January 2024 to highlight industry challenges and make recommendations for an aggressive enforcement plan. We stressed the prioritization of robust enforcement of free trade agreement rules of origin, the need to close the de minimis loophole, and fully enforce the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA).
Following our direct engagement and input, Secretary Mayorkas unveiled a textile enforcement plan in early April, which marked a critical step to combat import fraud and circumvention of free trade agreement rules and trade laws. Secretary Mayorkas also participated in a fireside chat with NCTO’s president and CEO Kim Glas at our Annual Meeting last year.
During the year, NCTO remained actively engaged with DHS and U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) leadership as the plan was put into action, providing tips to investigators; highlighting increased penalties and onsite verifications, which increased from 38 in FY22 to 136 in FY24; and amplifying the expansion of the UFLPA violator’s entities list, which grew from 33 to 144 companies.
In addition, NCTO members attended the opening of a new isotopic testing facility at the port of Savannah in September which will help the agency in its UFLPA enforcement. The agency has purchased new equipment and is in the process of ramping up this important testing capability to detect banned cotton grown in the Xinjiang province.
De Minimis
In perhaps one of the most targeted and coordinated efforts undertaken by NCTO, industry leaders executed a sweeping and effective lobbying campaign on Capitol Hill and with the administration to press for de minimis reform to permanently close the trade loophole for all countries.
I cannot stress enough how important this engagement is to the industry. It involved fly-ins, letters, and meetings with members of Congress and key staff on relevant congressional committees — both on the Hill and in districts. It required detailed policy analysis, phone calls and countless emails to educate and raise awareness about the adverse impact this ill-conceived provision in U.S. trade law has had on our industry and manufacturing as a whole.
In addition, NCTO spearheaded the formation of the Coalition to Close the De Minimis Loophole, a broad alliance including families of victims of fentanyl fatalities and non-profit organizations, domestic law enforcement associations, manufacturers and business associations.
Coalition members participated in roundtables and press conferences with reform champions like Congressman Earl Blumenauer and Congresswoman Rosa DeLauro.
They lobbied lawmakers on the Hill and sent letters to key policymakers —all in a coordinated and unified effort to close this dangerous loophole.
NCTO and the coalition are constantly pressing President Trump and his administration to reinstate his pro-posed ban on de minimis imports from China and to take additional action to close the harmful de minimis loophole for all countries permanently.
NCTO is also urgently working to pass a new Miscellaneous Tariff bill with immediate and full retroactivity.
And the organization continues to press for the expansion of the Berry Amendment, after securing key pro-visions in the Fiscal Year 2025 National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA) which Congress passed late last year. The NDAA supports the Berry Amendment, which requires the Department of Defense to purchase 100 percent U.S. made textiles and clothing. The legislation includes two new key provisions important to the domestic textile industry.
Another key priority is advocating for full enforcement of the Make PPE in America Act, which recently led to the award of two government contracts to NCTO member companies.
Additionally, NCTO continues to amplify support for the Section 301 case against China’s intellectual property abuses and pressing for a dramatic increase in tariffs on finished textile and apparel imports from China.
And NCTO is working diligently to protect qualifying trade within our free trade agreements (FTAs).
While we don’t have time to delve into all these important issues, I do want to emphasize that NCTO remains highly engaged on every policy matter that affects the U.S. textile industry with the intent of shaping policies that directly benefit U.S. textile investment, production and employment.
Please also note that industry leadership and involvement is of paramount importance. From contributions to NCTO’s Textile PAC to arranging congressional visits, the industry makes a difference every day in raising awareness about our important contribution to local and state economies and the U.S. economy overall.
Conclusion
Our industry is experiencing historic challenges that have tested our resolve, and we will continue to see headwinds in the year ahead.
But I know the true resilient nature of our industry and I’ve seen how it has sustained a foothold as a major contributor to the U.S. economy through historic downturns. We will again weather the storm and rebound from this current business cycle, possibly even later this year. There are many reasons I am optimistic about the industry’s future. I know that NCTO and industry leaders will be at the forefront of advocacy on our behalf and continue to engage with members of Congress and the administration to enact policies that bolster and expand the industry, ranging from targeted tariffs to tax reform and expanded government procurement of American-made products. And I know our organization and industry will continue to work in conjunction with our Western Hemisphere trading partners to thwart challenges to our free trade agreement rules, focus on our export markets and sustain and expand our coproduction chain.
In addition, we will continue pressing for stepped-up enforcement and penalties against rampant illegal trade practices and fraud.
In 2025, we look forward to continuing our engagement with Congress and the new administration to secure additional policy achievements and ensure a vibrant future for this industry.
References: 1 U.S. Census Bureau, Manufacturers’ Shipments, Inventories, and Orders (M3) Survey, and Annual Survey of Manufacturers (ASM), value of shipments for NAICS 313, 314, 315 & 32522. 2021 data used to estimate 2023 NAICS 32522 figure. 2 U.S. Department of Commerce data for Export Group 0: Textiles and Apparel. 3 U.S. Census Bureau, Annual Capital Expenditures Survey (ACES), NAICS 313, 314 & 315.
Editor’s Notes: Information contained in the speech was current as of NCTO’s annual meeting. Charles Heilig is president of Gastonia, N.C.-based Parkdale Mills. He served as the 2024 NCTO chairman. At the 2025 annual NCTO meeting in Washington, Chuck Hall, global president and CEO of Spartanburg, S.C.-based Barnet, succeeded Heilig as NCTO chairman; and Amy Bircher-Bruyn, president and CEO of Brooklyn, Ohio-based MMI Textiles, was elected vice chairman.
The North American Industry Classification System (NAICS) is the standard used by Federal statistical agencies in classifying business establishments for the purpose of collecting, analyzing, and publishing statistical data related to the U.S. business economy. NAICS Subsector 313 covers Textile Mills, sub-sector 314 covers Textile Product Mills and subsector 315 covers Apparel.
NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas with a delegation of Guatemalan leaders.
Trade Associations serve many roles, and recently the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) seized the moment in a turbulent time for U.S. textiles.
TW Special Report
In the United States, trade associations play a noteworthy role in supporting industries, business and professionals through advocacy; providing a networking community; and presenting a unified, empowered group identity.
This is a tall order for any association, but even more so for those in textiles considering the depth and breadth of the segmented U.S. industry.
Recently, the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) effectively seized the moment during a turbulent time, addressing a long-term international trade loophole affecting the industry and responding to fast-moving trade policy changes that carry significant weight on the survival and prosperity of U.S. textiles.
The National Council Of Textile Organizations
Trade associations have been an enduring feature of the U.S. textile industry throughout history, often with geographic or industry-sector focused missions.
Broad associations, that bridge sectors and geography, have been less prevalent and successful, but have a well-storied past that could fill volumes.
Today, NCTO’s identity stands in: “… representing the entire spectrum of the textile sector. From fibers to finished products, from machinery manufacturers to power suppliers, NCTO is the voice of the U.S. textile industry.”
It does so with five separate councils — Fiber; Yarn; Fabric; Finished Textile and Apparel; and Industry Support, which comprises distributors, converters, dyers, printers and finishers, as well as suppliers of products and services. Each council has a board for representation. This structure, according to the NCTO, is to “ensure a broad representation of the supply chain.”
Kim Glas, NCTO, Leib Oehmig, Glen Raven, Congressman David Rouzer (R-N.C) and Congressman Patrick McHenry (R-N.C.), who has since retired.
De Mini — What?
Very few Americans including very few members of the textile industry, had ever heard the phrase “de minimis,” five years ago, let alone had any understanding of its implications on international trade or the health of U.S. textiles.
Today, the Latin phrase and its impact on the textile industry and consumers is well documented. Without getting in the weeds, the dictionary states, de minimis means “of minimal things” or “so small as to be disregarded.” In legal and business contexts, it refers to something insignificant or negligible, often to the point that it’s not worth addressing or taking legal action.
In terms of NCTO’s interest, the de minimis trade exemption was a customs accommodation for small packages, of little value — in this case $800 or less per day, per person — shipped internationally into the United States under Section 321 of the Tariff Act of 1930.
In short, an individual could receive a bottle of Scotch from an aunt living in Scotland at Christmas without clearing customs and paying duty.
Unfortunately, that accommodation became a loophole, then expanded to a loophole-based model for ecommerce giants and mass marketers.
Parkdale’s Anderson “Andy” Warlick at the podium during a press conference with Congresswoman Linda Sanchez (D-Calif.) who introduced the de minimis legisla-tion that NCTO supports.
De Minimis Impact
U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) has a history of concern with de minimis shipments. “Both the volume and combined worth of low-value, or de minimis, shipments to the United States have risen significantly over the past ten years,” said then Secretary of Homeland Security Alejandro N. Mayorkas in a January 2025 press release. “The exemption of these goods from duties or taxes has under-mined American businesses and workers and flooded our ports of entry with foreign-made products, making CBP’s vital work screening these goods for security risks more difficult. The actions announced today to tighten this exemption will strengthen America’s economic and national security.”
The CBP press release also noted: “Over the last 10 years, the number of shipments entering the United States claiming the de minimis administrative exemption increased by more than 600 percent from approximately 139 million a year in Fiscal Year (FY) 2015, to over 1 billion a year by FY 2023. During Fiscal Year 2024, de minimis shipments rose once again to over 1.36 billion. This exponential increase has created challenges for CBP’s effective enforcement of U.S. trade laws, health and safety requirements, intellectual property rights, and consumer protection rules.”
Building A Coalition
An effective way for trade associations to successfully advocate is to band together with like-minded groups to amplify the message at hand and broaden its impact by raising awareness and motivating legislative change.
In March of 2024, “The Coalition to Close the De Minimis Loophole” was launched. NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas stated at the time: “De minimis is not just a textile issue — it’s an issue impacting us all — which is why this broad, diverse coalition has been formed to amplify our collective voices in the fight to get immediate, substantial and consequential change,” commending several congressional champions of closing the loophole, including then Congressman Earl Blumenauer [D-Ore.], Congressman Neal Dunn [R-Fla.], Congresswoman Rosa DeLauro [D-Conn.], and then Congressman Dan Bishop [R-N.C].
Glas added: “Closing this loop-hole will simultaneously assist law enforcement battle the deadly fentanyl and broader illicit drug crisis while also assisting U.S. businesses to operate on a more level playing field with competitors overseas. We urge others in Congress and the Administration to support the effort and immediately close de minimis.”
By broadening the scope of support and illuminating the loophole’s impact, some 29 interested associations and organizations are now behind the issue and advocating for reform.
Diverse groups including the American Federation of Labor and Congress of Industrial Organizations (AFL-CIO), National Association of Police Organizations, Families Against Fentanyl the Coalition for a Prosperous America, and even the United Steelworkers came together and made their voices heard.
A Significant Result
After much testimony and legislative processes, the most current activity on de minimis, as of TW’s press time, was House passage of a budget reconciliation package which includes a provision that would permanently end de minimis for commercial shipments from all countries by July 2027. The legislation next goes to the Senate, and NCTO and the coalition are pressing to keep the provision in the broader budget and tax bill.
Recently, U.S. Senators Sheldon Whitehouse (D-R.I.) and Lindsey Graham (R-S.C.) introduced another strong proposal, the Closing the De Minimis Loophole Act.
Glas commended the Senators “… for their leadership and support of this important bipartisan legislation that would codify and permanently end de minimis treatment for China immediately, while phasing out de minimis for all other countries after a four-month transition period. This bill, a companion to legislation in the House, is the strongest and most comprehensive legislative solution to closing the destructive de minimis loophole once and for all. … The legislation will help level the playing field for the domestic textile industry, which has lost 28 textile plants over the past 22 months. We strongly sup-port this legislation and look forward to working with Senators White-house and Graham to advance it.”
Prior to the introduction of the act, President Donald J. Trump signed an Executive Order eliminating duty-free de minimis treatment for low-value imports from China and Hong Kong. While that order currently stands, it is in limbo and caught up in court cases challenging President Trump’s executive order and authority to impose broad-based tariffs on countries.
It is important to note that this order targets de minimis packages from China and Hong Kong which are packages utilizing the $800 loop-hole most often.
NCTO staff and textile executives on Capitol Hill.
Trade Earthquake
At the 21st NCTO annual meeting held in Washington, Glas shared with the gathered attendees an account of the quick, effective engagement of the NCTO and key members to address a pending crisis that would cancel the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA) and, in her words, “lose half the industry overnight.”
Glas said: “There are certain industry leaders who are not in this room right now because they are writing a letter [to a Cabinet official who] asked our industry to write immediately to put on President Trump’s desk this afternoon.
“We had an urgent meeting with [the high-level administration official] this morning at 11 a.m. at the start of our annual meeting asking him to do everything possible to help our industry grow. Qualified trade, penalties to our Western Hemisphere are all on the line for our industry where we can literally lose 70 percent of our export market, which would hurt even our domestic manufacturers who have fully verticalized supply chain.
As she characterized the events, Glas said: “This is the velocity with which decision making is happening in Washington now. I urge all of you, if you don’t know your member of congress, make sure they get to know you, they come out to your plant. Congressman Hudson was in that meeting with us, from North Carolina, and it made all the difference.”
NCTO’s Kim Glas during NCTO’s annual meeting in Washington.
Glas also described a key meeting the prior day saying: “Yesterday, we had a meeting … and I’m sorry if I’m fired up, I’ve had 12 cups of coffee … but yesterday we were in the West Wing. And when you go to the West Wing, the aura of that just falls on you. It’s like no other place to have a meeting. You are sitting in the West Wing and the situation room is right down the hall … here we are.
“And people say we’re the little old textile industry. We’re not the little old textile industry, we’re the mighty textile industry and we deserve to be in the West Wing.
“I’m going to tell you those CEOs who were in that room carried the weight of all of you in this room, and the people not in this meeting today. It wasn’t about their individual company; it was about the textile team on the field and getting the yards we need to get a goal and to help prevent the worst losses imaginable.”
Situational awareness, being prepared for quick, effective engagement, and successfully making your associations’ case at a critical moment are all hallmarks of a trade association fulfilling its noteworthy role.
As Glas continued addressing industry leaders during the annual meeting, she said, “You’re carrying your team, meaning your workers at your facility, just as much as those CEOs were carrying the textile team, the entirety of it, in these meetings the last couple of days. So, in this period of time, we need to be more collaborative, more thoughtful, we need to let out our stress. We need to show appreciation for where we came from and where we are today.”
Regarding engagement Glas said, “It is the greatest honor for all of us to represent you. We are in this fight with you. But it takes all of us, including our CEO leaders. It’s one thing for me and others here on this stage to talk to congressional offices. It’s a totally different ball of wax because you are representing your facilities and are doing the work. You inspire us, and so I want to say my deep appreciation. And I also want to deeply thank the NCTO team. This has been an incredibly busy five years. This has been an incredibly busy five weeks!”
Results
As of TW’s press time, goods qualifying under the USMCA remain in force. USMCA-compliant imports from Mexico and Canada continue to enter the United States without tariffs, which is critical for the U.S. textile industry. Non-USMCA-compliant textiles from Mexico and Canada face a 25 percent tariff, incentivizing the use of U.S. manufactured components.
Regarding the Administration’s actions, Glas said: “The U.S. textile industry ships $12.3 billion, or 53 percent, of its total global textile exports to Mexico and Canada and those component materials often come back as finished products to the United States under the USMCA. It is by far the largest export region for American textile producers, representing $20 billion in two-way trade that spurs enormous textile investment and employment in the United States. Preserving duty free, qualified trade is absolutely critical to the U.S. textile industry and will provide incentives for more companies to onshore even greater production capacity, giving a boost to American textile manufacturers and their workers.”
A Trade Association In Action
Trade associations come in all shapes, sizes and flavors. But, in this moment, and with its long road to solve the de minimis loophole, the NCTO has largely fulfilled a note-worthy role in supporting the U.S. textile industry — its businesses and plants — through effective advocacy; providing a community and network; and presenting a unified, empowered group identity.
It bears repeating what Glas said. “We’re not the little old textile industry, we’re the mighty textile industry and we deserve to be in the West Wing.”
Cotton Incorporated’s new President and CEO William Kimbrell intends to reinforce the organization’s role as a trusted partner and respected industry leader.
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Cary, N.C.-based Cotton Incorporated is a research and promotion not-for-profit charged with the mission to increase the demand for and profitability of cotton.The company — funded by U.S. growers of upland cotton and importers of cotton textile products — was founded in 1970 in response to the rise of synthetic textile fibers and their impact on cotton’s market share.
Recently, the organization announced the promotion of William Kimbrell to president and CEO. Kimbrell has been at Cotton Incorporated for 22 years holding a variety of positions. He has experience in fiber processing research, as well as roles in the Global Supply Chain Marketing division including technology management, and marketing initiatives with a concentration on Asia. Prior to the promotion, Kimbrell was executive vice president and COO.
Kimbrell graduated from NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles with a degree in Textile Management. He also holds an MBA with a concentration in Supply Chain Management.
At the time of his appointment, Marvin Beyer, chairman of Cotton Incorporated’s Board of Directors, said: “William’s technical expertise along with his extensive global supply chain marketing background provides a deep understanding of the challenges and opportunities facing the cotton industry today. Under his guidance, Cotton Incorporated is well-positioned to continue driving innovation and promoting the many benefits of cotton, making it the fiber of choice in the global textile industry.”
Kimbrell certainly brings a sharp perspective to his new role at Cotton Incorporated. TextileWorld recently sat down with him to discuss the future of cotton and his leadership style, as well as topics impacting the global cotton supply chain including sustainability, research and trade.
TW: How do your 22 years at Cotton Incorporated and strong technical back-ground influence your approach to guiding and leading the organization into its next chapter?
Kimbrell: My 22 years with the company have been incredibly rewarding. I have had the opportunity to work in so many aspects of the organization from fiber and research to marketing initiatives. It has really provided me with an end-to-end understanding of how Cotton Incorporated supports and drives the cotton and textile industry from fiber to finished product. This experience has equipped me to be both strategic and responsive to a market that is constantly evolving. More importantly, it has reinforced my belief in the critical role Cotton Incorporated plays as a trusted source of science, data, and market insight — helping ensure cotton remains the preferred fiber in a competitive market.
TW: What have been your top priorities during your first few months as CEO and is there anything that surprised you about the transition?
Kimbrell: As you are aware, the cotton and textile industry are facing challenging times across the entire supply chain — from farm to retail to consumer. My top priority has been to take a hard look at our program strategy and ensure we’re making the most of our resources — aligning every effort to directly support the industry’s core needs while positioning cotton for long-term growth.
One of my key priorities is to build on the strong foundation we’ve established, while recognizing rapidly changing market dynamics require fresh thinking and new strategies. Cotton Incorporated has consistently delivered meaningful research across both the agricultural and textile sectors. We’ve implemented effective marketing campaigns targeting both the supply chain and consumers. Our Seal of Cotton, has more than 50 years of history and substantial brand equity — demonstrating trust and quality while reinforcing our industry’s dedication to excellence and innovation. Looking ahead, I’m focused on advancing this legacy through a new generation of initiatives that strengthen cotton’s position.
As for the transition itself, I’ve been around for a while, so no real surprises. I feel privileged to be stepping into this role at a time when there are such important opportunities ahead. I’m focused on working alongside our incredible team of experts to tackle these challenges head-on.
TW: What is your strategic vision for Cotton Incorporated over the next five years and how does it capitalize on cotton’s storied past?
Kimbrell: At Cotton Incorporated, we often talk about cotton as the preferred fiber, but my vision is to ensure that cotton is the fiber of choice.The fiber of choice at every stage of the supply chain, from the farm to brands and the consumer. Over the next five years, my strategic focus is to strengthen cotton’s position by elevating cotton as a natural fiber that delivers solutions. Solutions from product innovation to sustainability, performance, and compliance — all while driving economic viability for U.S. producers.
This strategy will be rooted in innovation from advancing farming practices and fiber development to expanding end-use applications. We will work to grow cotton’s presence in emerging markets and new product categories, reinforcing its role as a versatile, high-quality material that meets evolving demands. While we honor cotton’s rich heritage, we’re focused on securing its future — making sure it remains the fiber of choice for generations to come.
Cotton Incorporated recently launched a new CottonWorks.com website.
Research & Development
TW: Cotton Incorporated is known for research and development initiatives throughout the cotton supply chain beginning in the field and ending with cotton products. Any new or interesting initiatives underway?
Kimbrell: Yes, we are continuously advancing research and development initiatives to enhance cotton’s performance, sustainability and market opportunities. A key focus is advancing cotton’s role in circularity, exploring innovative solutions like our cotton to sugar initiative, transforming textile cotton waste into glucose, and other end-of-life solutions like composting, and upcycling. These initiatives aim to further solidify cotton’s position as a renewable resource.
We are also committed to developing performance technologies that do not compromise cotton’s inherent advantages, ensuring that cotton continues to meet the evolving needs of brands and consumers. The most recent technology we released was RESTech Cotton™. Cotton is often the natural choice for bedding because of its soft, breathable qualities. RESTech Cotton builds on those properties adding exceptional smoothness, quicker dry time, and greater abrasion resistance. More information on this finish and our suite of performance cotton technologies is available on our CottonWorks™ website.
CottonWorks also hosts a robust collection of digital fabric developments. We release new collections of knit and woven fabrics twice a year and these developments are a tremendous resource to the industry.
Beyond product, we’re exploring new applications for cottonseed oil and biochar, expanding their use in industries such as food, energy, and soil health. These efforts are aligned with our broader sustainability goals and highlight the versatility of cotton as a natural resource. Lastly, we are extending the impact of our Blue Jeans Go Green™ program, which promotes the recycling of denim into new products, further contributing to the circular economy and reducing waste in the textile industry.
TW: Are there areas of seed, agriculture, fiber, yarn, or fabric innovation that are most critical for the cotton industry over the next three to five years?
Kimbrell: Over the next three to five years, key innovations will be important for the cotton industry, particularly in agriculture, fiber, and across the supply chain.
On the agricultural side, advancements will focus on improving soil health, increasing water efficiency, and enhancing carbon sequestration, all of which contribute to producer profitability and the sustain-ability of cotton farming.
Additionally, automation and emerging technologies, such as “see and spray” systems, will play a significant role in optimizing cotton production. These technologies will help improve precision in farming, optimize input use efficiency, and further enhance cotton’s sustainability credentials.
Across the entire supply chain, it is essential that cot-ton meets and exceeds the performance, environmental, and compliance needs of brands and retailers and be positioned as a solution.
TW: Are there any emerging technologies or innovations that you believe have the potential to significantly transform the use of cotton in the textile industry over the next decade?
Kimbrell: The next decade holds great promise for cotton, with innovations in fiber quality and consistency, and performance-enhancing finishes, especially those derived from biobased materials, opening the door to new products. At the same time, low-impact processes are making more efficient use of water, energy and chemistry which supports environmental goals and efficiencies. Advances in circularity, including upcycling and the exploration of new markets, will further solidify cotton’s role as a key sustainable material in the textile industry.
Cotton Incorporated experiments with a variety of dyeing techniques including digital printing.
Cotton Marketing
TW: Cotton Incorporated was founded 55 years ago in response to the rise of synthetic fibers and their impact on cotton’s market share. How has the fiber landscape changed over the years and how do you see Cotton Incorporated’s role in today’s altered fiber marketplace?
Kimbrell: When Cotton Incorporated was founded in 1970, synthetic fibers like polyester were rapidly gaining ground, largely due to their low cost and ease of care. Cotton faced an urgent need to innovate, to promote its natural strengths, and to reclaim its relevance with consumers and manufacturers. Over the decades, the fiber marketplace has continued to evolve. Today, competition in the fiber market is even stronger and innovation cycles are faster and more complex than ever before.
However, the market needs have shifted. While product performance remains a key priority, today’s consumers and brands place increasing importance on compliance issues like sustainability, traceability, and circularity — areas where cotton has a tremendous opportunity to be the solution. Cotton Incorporated’s role remains critical in ensuring that cotton continues to lead as a high-quality, versatile, and compliant fiber. Through science-based research and innovation, our mission to protect and grow demand for cotton remains the same, but our approach has broadened in how we meet that mission.
TW: U.S. cotton has global opportunities. What is Cotton Incorporated’s approach to support demand around the globe?
Kimbrell: We support global demand for U.S. cotton by leveraging our unique expertise in technical research, innovation, marketing and supply chain support. There is simply no other organization or facility like Cotton Incorporated. Our people and their subject matter expertise help ensure U.S. cotton continues to meet the diverse needs of the global market. As the top resource for cotton, we collaborate closely with stakeholders across the value chain, ensuring U.S. cotton remains competitive in the global market.
TW: Cotton has long been “The Fabric of Our Lives.”Will we see any shifts in Cotton Incorporated’s branding or messaging under your leadership?
Kimbrell: The iconic “The Fabric of Our Lives” campaign continues to be a cornerstone of our consumer brand strategy.The iconic campaign has evolved to meet the needs of today’s consumers, targeting 18-34 year-old, primarily female, Gen Z and Millennials. A recent shift to the “Fabric of Now”campaign takes a more modern marketing approach employing social media, influencers and strategic brand partnerships shifting the focus to targeted consumer engagement around cotton’s key benefits through education and driving behavior change.
TW: Cotton Incorporated has long focused on market research and data collection to support its research and marketing efforts. What opportunity does artificial intelligence present in this data management and analysis?
Kimbrell: With research at our core, we’ve always embraced technology, and artificial intelligence offers tremendous benefits. That said, we will continue to rely on our subject matter experts and key stakeholders to ensure the data and insights are grounded in industry knowledge and practical experience. Combining AI with expert-driven insights allows us to refine our strategies, predict market trends and optimize supply chain management while we ensure our research, and marketing efforts remain at the forefront of the cotton industry.
Cotton Incorporated has a variety of spinning, knitting and weaving machines used to generate FABRICAST™ collection samples, as well as develop other technical cotton innovations.
Supply Chain
TW: The push for transparency and traceability is increasing in the textile industry. How does Cotton Incorporated support the cotton industry moving towards a more accountable supply chain?
Kimbrell: The push for greater transparency and traceability in the textile industry is accelerating, and Cotton Incorporated is committed to being a trusted resource for manufacturers, brands, and retailers navigating this evolving landscape. We actively support the industry’s shift toward a more accountable supply chain by providing objective guidance on traceability technologies and sourcing strategies.Through our CottonWorks platform, we offer extensive sourcing support, technical insights, and educational resources to help partners make informed decisions that align with their traceability goals.
Trade
TW: What are your thoughts on the implementation of tariffs and how they may impact U.S. cotton producers, as well as the international cotton supply chain?
Kimbrell: The rapidly evolving changes proposed around tariffs create uncertainty around purchasing decisions throughout the supply chain. Given the global nature of the textile supply chain, changes in tariff structures have the potential to increase costs and purchasing decisions at each stage of the supply chain, from fiber to finished good.
This uncertainty can dampen demand, independent of the direct impact of the eventual policies that are implemented over the longer-term.
The recent changes in tariffs are added onto existing rates. As a result, any existing tariff advantages cotton-dominant products have relative to man-made dominant products are maintained and should continue to support cotton’s share of U.S. imports.
TW: Do you see any other economic challenges for U.S. cotton producers and domestic cotton textile manufacturers?
Kimbrell: U.S. cotton producers and domestic cotton textile manufacturers are currently facing several economic challenges, including low prices, inflation, rising interest rates, and increasing input costs, all of which impact the economic viability of production. These challenges validate the importance of our research and the role of industry partnerships in navigating these conditions.
Cotton Incorporated is committed to supporting stakeholders, with a global presence of research and marketing experts positioned strategically to address these issues and help sustain the industry’s growth.
Sustainability
TW: What’s your assessment of the sustain-ability narrative surrounding cotton, and how are you calibrating messaging and research to ensure data-driven advocacy?
Kimbrell: The sustainability narrative surrounding cotton is strong. As a natural fiber, cotton has a clear advantage in this space, with its natural biodegradability and microplastic-free benefit. Cotton is grown from the earth and can be returned to the earth. Our story is compelling, backed by data-driven research that highlights cotton’s sustainability benefits. This positions cotton as the natural, eco-friendly choice in the fiber market, reinforcing its unique place throughout the supply chain.
TW: How do you see consumer awareness and behavior influencing the adoption of sustainable practices? What role does consumer education play in driving demand for truly sustainable products?
Kimbrell: Consumer awareness and behavior are key drivers in the adoption of sustainable practices. Our 2025 Lifestyle Monitor™ Survey found that the majority of consumers — 71 percent — say they are likely to check the fiber content label before purchasing a clothing item to avoid apparel made from synthetic fibers. As consumers become more conscious of environmental impacts, particularly with the increased visibility of the threat of microplastics, their preference for natural, biodegradable materials will increase.
Education plays a vital role in shaping these behaviors and it is essential for brands and retailers to provide greater visibility and transparency about the fibers they use, making it easy for consumers to find and choose truly sustainable products.
William Kimbrell and key members of the Global Supply Chain Marketing team, Cotton Incorporated board members and cotton producers convened in Hong Kong recently for the Cotton ConneXions conference.
Concluding Thoughts
TW: Are there any factors that concern you with regards to successfully maintaining and growing cotton’s future?
Kimbrell: We are navigating through undeniably complex times. From the field to the consumer, challenges are weighing heavy on the cotton industry. Our growers are under immense pressure. Rising input costs, depressed prices, and unpredictable yields have created a tough environment where profitability is hard-won.
On the product side, we continue to confront a fiber market that is evolving rapidly. It is a fiber market where low-cost synthetics have gained market share. However, these short-term advantages come with long-term environmental costs like microplastics. It’s a firm reminder that innovation, performance, and leaning into cotton’s natural advantages are critically important. Cotton is a versatile, high-quality, safe and compliant fiber so even in the midst of these headwinds, this environment is full of opportunity.
At Cotton Incorporated, we are not new to adversity. The Cotton Research and Promotion Program was built to address exactly these kinds of challenges and market complexities. Whether it’s advancing cutting-edge agricultural research, driving sustain-ability initiatives, or developing technologies that help cotton compete on efficiency and performance, our work is laying the foundation for a more competitive and sustainable future for cotton. Our marketing efforts continue to build trust and relevance for cotton with our “customers” — manufacturers, brands, retailers and consumers around the world. These efforts don’t just promote a fiber — they promote a story of stewardship, innovation and authenticity that sets cotton apart.
Undoubtedly, there is more work to be done. The challenges we face are not short-term. We must keep pace with accelerating innovation in alternative fibers. We also must remain vigilant in communicating cotton’s strong environmental story in a world where regulatory pressures, misinformation, and shifting consumer expectations abound. Finally, sustaining cotton’s future means standing firmly behind our growers — through strategic investment in research, technology, and advocacy that reinforces cotton’s economic viability. I’m confident in the talent and dedication of the Cotton Incorporated team and the strength of our stakeholder community. With the right focus and collective will, we have the capability to deliver meaningful progress and move cotton forward in a rapidly changing world.
TW: When you look back on your tenure, what do you hope to have achieved both for the cotton industry and the organization?
Kimbrell: Cotton is truly the “Fabric of our Lives.” It touches nearly every part of our daily routines — offering comfort, durability and versatility in a way that only a natural fiber can. But cotton is more than a product; it’s a cornerstone of the global economy, sustaining the livelihoods of millions of farmers and workers. Grown in 77 countries, traded across more than 80 countries, and used in manufacturing in nearly 160 countries, cotton is a truly global fiber of great significance.
At Cotton Incorporated, the work we do matters — to all of these stakeholders. It matters to farmers whose livelihoods depend on a healthy, vibrant textile industry. It matters to families who rely on cotton products every day. It matters to manufacturers, brands, and retailers looking for sustainable, high-quality materials. And it matters to the future of an industry that is interwoven with the economies and communities around the world.
When I look back on my tenure, I hope it will be defined by measurable, meaningful progress — progress that strengthened cotton’s position in the market, enhanced Cotton Incorporated’s ability to support the industry, and added real value for all cotton stakeholders. I want us to have expanded cotton’s relevance not just through innovation in the field, fiber and fabric, but through marketing that authentically tells cotton’s story — a story rooted in stewardship, quality and enduring value.
I also hope to have led Cotton Incorporated in a way that reinforced its role as a trusted partner and respected industry leader — a source of expertise, collaboration, and inspiration from farm to retail. Ultimately, our success will be measured by more than market share. It will be seen in the strength, resilience, and continued relevance of cotton as the fiber of choice for generations to come.
The inaugural Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit is designed to foster collaboration across the U.S. hemp fiber industry.
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The 2018 Farm Bill brought with it an increased interest in growing hemp in the United States. In turn, there also was a growing interest in using hemp for textile products. As noted by Aaron Nesser in his feature “Hemp’s American Arrival: Tariffs An Unexpected Ally,” (TW, this issue) the industry is ripe for investment and development.
Recognizing the potential and wanting to draw attention to the industry, several groups have come together to organize the 2025 Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit to explore innovation, supply chain development and market opportunities for hemp fiber.
The event, to be held July 15-17, 2025, is hosted by the NC State Wilson College of Textiles, Raleigh, N.C., presented by the National Industrial Hemp Council (NICH), and sup-ported by the NSF Textile Engine.
“This summit is designed to deliver actionable knowledge and foster collaboration across the entire hemp fiber value chain — from seed to finished product,” said Patrick Atagi, NIHC president and CEO. “Attendees will leave with new tools, connections and strategies to move their businesses and the industry forward.”
The event kicks off with a net-working reception at Trophy Brewing on July 14.
The first day of the summit, July 15, focuses on learning with plenary sessions at the Wilson College of Textiles. The five sessions — Agriculture; Processing; Textiles; Composites and Building Materials; and Industry Value Chain — are designed to tell the story of industrial hemp fiber. Presentations will center on the latest developments in hemp fiber technology and applications. Fiber genetics, cultivation, mechanical processing, advanced manufacturing and cutting-edge research all will be discussed.
On July 16, summit participants will see hemp innovation firsthand as they are transported to NC State’s College of Agricultural and Life Sciences Horticultural Research Stations and Biophil Natural Fibers in Lumberton, N.C. These two field trips, led by Dr. David Suchoff and David Camby respectively, will educate attendees on the hemp fiber journey from field to fiber and hurd processing to decorticating and spinning, and beyond.
Day three, July 17, rounds out the conference with additional speakers, roundtable discussions, and tours of the Wilson College of Textiles complex as well as The Nonwovens Institute.
Each stage of the summit will allow attendees to network as they engage and learn more about industrial hemp and how it is transforming supply chains in textiles, construction, automotive components and more.
“We’re genuinely excited to champion the research and development of hemp textiles right here in the United States,” said Dr. Andre West, professor and director of Zeis Textiles Extension at NC State University. “Investing in hemp is a win-win for our economy and our environment — it’s a sustainable crop that empowers American farmers, reduces our reliance on imports, and paves the way for a cleaner, more resilient textile industry.”
“I’m incredibly excited to be a part of organizing the inaugural Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit,” said Guy Carpenter, founder and president of Bear Fiber Inc., and NIHC representative. “This international gathering will spotlight American ingenuity and highlight the rapid advancements in U.S. hemp fiber innovation, while fostering global collaboration across the fiber value chain.
“Today, we’re blending and spinning both coarse and fine count yarns, enabling high-quality knits and wovens with confidence and precision,” Carpenter added. “This success is the result of a collaborative industry effort — farm to fiber to fabric to fashion — proving the power of innovation and partnership. We’re excited to showcase hemp’s role in sustainable manufacturing and its growing impact on the world stage.”
Summit sponsors include: presenting sponsor NIHC, host sponsor Wilson College of Textiles, funding partner U.S. Department of Agriculture, and supporting sponsor the NSF Textile Engine, as well as Bear Fiber, IND Hemp, Hemi and Biophil Natural Fibers.
All professionals, authorities and researchers who wish to foster advances in the hemp fiber industry are invited to participate in the inaugural 2025 NIHC Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit!
For more information about the Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit contact GlobalHempFiber@ncsu.edu or visit globalhempfiber.textiles.ncsu.edu.
Hemp yarn spinning in action. (Image courtesy of U.S. Department of Agriculture Agricultural Research Service, New Orleans)
Will uncertainty in global supply chains created by tariffs create opportunities for hemp in the textile industry?
By Aaron Nesser
China has long dominated hemp textiles. It is the number one grower and processor.
Since industrial hemp’s legalization in 2018, the United States has become the world’s third-largest grower of hemp, but China still dominates the critical process of converting raw hemp into textile fiber.
This dynamic means that some U.S.-grown hemp is shipped to China for processing before it is incorporated into apparel destined for U.S. and European markets — a complex global loop that new tariffs, even at just 30 percent, are now disrupting.
Why Now? Positioning For A Shifting Market
Hemp is hardly new to American soil; it was once the number one fiber crop grown in the United States, essential for industries like shipping, defense, textiles and paper. However, shifts in technology and policy, including its later prohibition, pushed it aside.
The 2018 Farm Bill brought a resurgence of interest, but the initial hype quickly met reality. Farmers rushed to grow hemp, but with limited processing infrastructure, there were few buyers, and many growers got burned.
Since then, companies have quietly built the needed infrastructure, processing U.S.-grown hemp into products like insulation and building materials.
Why might this tariff-driven moment differ? Key parts of the supply chain are now in place. More farmers are growing industrial hemp, and volume processors like Dallas-based Panda Biotech LLC and IND Hemp, Benton, Mont., are contracting directly with farmers to ensure a plentiful supply of hemp materials, including the key raw ingredient for textile fiber.
From Missed Expectations To Real Resilience
During hemp’s hype-phase from 2018–2022, hopes ran high that it could be a superior, sustainable substitute for cotton. However, early attempts to produce hemp textiles revealed significant challenges. One-hundred-percent hemp yarns failed in existing cotton mills, blends with cotton were less than ideal, and the “cottonization” process proved more complex and environmentally taxing than anticipated.
But the industry has learned from these early stumbles. After a period of recalibration, hemp now is getting beyond some of the early roadblocks and shows potential for clear economic, environmental and performance advantages.
As a crop, hemp is very productive. Compared to cotton it produces three to four times as much fiber per acre, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, and can be planted and harvested two or more times per sea-son, according to the Rodale Institute. This increased productivity uses 75 percent less water1 than cotton.
Beyond sheer output, hemp demonstrates surprising resilience as a crop. It thrives in more diverse climates than cotton, and research from University of Adelaide2 shows that industrial hemp is exceptionally drought tolerant. In a warming world, where cotton crops suffer billion dollar losses due to drought and water rationing, hemp may be a way to mitigate extreme weather risk.
This resilience extends to the fiber itself. As a natural material, hemp is inherently strong, and after early disappointments with blends, it’s now proving its toughness. New, clean processing technology, especially for degumming, has advanced and is now capable of producing fiber that genuinely improves performance and comfort.
The Domestic Challenge: Bridging The Infrastructure & Technology Gap
Successfully bringing U.S. hemp textiles to market hinges on overcoming key infrastructure and processing hurdles. The American textile industry is built for short-staple cotton, and hemp is not natively compatible. To work in cotton systems, apparel-quality fiber needs extensive processing, called cottonization to create short, spinnable fibers, which usually involves chemical degumming.
This critical degumming is often outsourced to China, employing methods that face significant U.S. environ-mental and worker safety regulatory barriers from the Environmental Protection Agency and Occupational Safety and Health Administration. This reliance on overseas processing is a primary challenge that tariffs could incentivize solving domestically.
Hemp yarn and knitted hemp fabric (Images courtesy of Renaissance Fiber Inc.)
Progress is being made on multiple fronts. Panda Biotech’s Senior Vice President of Business Development Mark D’Sa reports that the company has now made a key advancement, producing fiber for bottomweight textiles like denim and canvas. It is able to do so by bypassing degumming altogether.
For the finer, softer yarns suitable for apparel like T-shirts — where major players note historical processing and comfort challenges — Daniel Yohannes, CEO of Renaissance Fiber Inc., Winston-Salem, N.C., shared a breakthrough — a first-of-its-kind clean degumming process. According to Yohannes, the process achieves strength and softness without harsh chemistry, making it the first scalable solution in the United States for fine textiles.
The challenge now is scaling up these domestic solutions in an economically uncertain time.
Navigating Tariffs And Building The Fiber Supply Chain
Despite progress, serious hurdles still remain. The current administration’s stance is bearish on domestic textiles3, and ironically, tariffs meant to curb imports also hit the equipment crucial for building the U.S. industry. Compatibility with existing infrastructure will be an advantage.
The bellwether for success will be hemp-centric brands. Companies like Jungmaven — an apparel brand focused on using hemp in its products— and Datsusara LLC — an apparel and bag brand known for Joe Rogan’s favorite fanny pack — currently rely on established Chinese supply chains for hemp-blend apparel. The key question is if they will shift these operations — and critically, if they’ll choose producers in the United States.
A Tariff-Driven Opportunity, If Hurdles Can Be Cleared
Tariffs on Chinese goods offer a potential, if uncertain, catalyst for the U.S. hemp textile industry.
While early hype has yielded to tangible progress, realizing hemp’s full potential requires decisively bridging infrastructure gaps and scaling innovative processing to achieve market competitiveness.
Today’s economic and trade uncertainties may provide a rare opening. Seizing it, however, demands more than technical breakthroughs; sustained investment, bold innovation and strategic farm-to-fashion alliances are critical. Can the U.S. hemp industry mobilize the resources and speed required?
Editor’s Note: Aaron Nesser is a scientist, designer and founder of Keep Earth Co., a strategic advisory and product development consultancy specializing in biobased materials and products. He previously directed material innovation for kelp-based textile company Keel Labs, Morrisville, N.C.
BRUSSELS — June 12, 2025 — The first Textiles Recycling Expo took place in Brussels on 4-5 June 2025 and has been heralded as a landmark gathering for the industry, bringing together key stakeholders and promoting discussion, collaboration and innovation.
The event attracted 126 exhibitors and 3,336 visitors from 67 countries, making it the largest ever meeting focused on textiles recycling. The audience came from across Europe and beyond, with 12% travelling from Africa, Asia and America.
Aurel Ciobanu-Dordea, Director for Circular Economy at the European Commission, gave the opening presentation and remarked on both the energy of the event and the impressive technologies on display. The buzz at the expo was reflected in numerous comments on LinkedIn and social media, including attendees describing it as “bustling, energetic and full of momentum”, and as “a breakthrough week for circular fashion”.
Another popular feature was the conference theatre, which was packed out throughout the two-day event. More than 50 expert speakers discussed the latest developments in regulations, technologies, recycling projects and practical ways to increase waste recovery rates.
