The TC 19i card from Germany-based Trützschler offers high production and more constant quality with less waste compared to latest high-performance card from a competitor, reports Turkey-based yarn manufacturer Iskur. This is the final evaluation after several months of intensive head-to-head testing.
“We facilitated the comparison of TC 19i with the competitor card at our premises because we wanted to make an informed decision for our next project” said Hakan Karagöl, general manager, Iskur Group. The aim was to achieve the maximum possible production with best possible quality and operating costs. On the basis of a cost-comparison and quality analysis from yarn to fabric, Iskur is now in favor of Trützschler regarding the spinning preparation line.
After months of comparative testing during which TC 19i showed better performance and quality, while the competitor card had to be continuously overhauled and reconfigured, the final trials took place beginning of 2022. In the first trial both cards ran at 180 kilograms per hour (kg/h) in the production of a rotor yarn Ne 6.5 made of a cotton and cotton recycle blend. Both competitors achieved comparable quality (IPI) now, and the final fabrics both matched the customer’s expectation. However, TC 19i showed significantly less unnecessary fiber waste — more than 4 percent. The cost savings of operating TC 19i compared to the competitor amount to $160,000 per year, which include other aspects like energy consumption and maintenance expenses.
In the second trial, the production target was increased to 250 kg/h. After some adaptations the competitor card now ran at comparable waste levels like TC 19i. However, IPI results of TC 19i were about 30-percent lower, yarn breaks about 60-percent lower, and clearer cuts 45-percent lower. TC 19i produced about 850 kilograms more in the same time period. “We observed that IPI values and waste percentage of the competitor card varied more from day to day, while Trützschler TC 19i quality and waste values remained comparatively constant. The fabric from TC 19i fully met our expectation, both after the 180 kg/h and the 250 kg/h trial. In contrast, the fabric that stemmed from competitor card production at 250 kg/h did not match our reference fabric anymore,” concluded the customer.
The intelligence of TC 19i — including the permanent, automatic optimization of the carding gap during production and the automatic recognition and setting of waste removal — leads to better results. The TC 19i provides high production with best possible quality and waste removal, as well as lower energy consumption in direct comparison.
A customer-specific 3D anthropometric survey project using 3D body scanners has been underway at the German Armed Forces since January. The project aims to record the body measurements and body shapes of around 2,500 members of the Bundeswehr, ensuring even better-fitting clothing and equipment in the future. The project is scheduled to run until 2024.
The next few years will see around 2,500 soldiers of the Navy, Air Force, Army, Joint Support, Enabling Service and Medical Service measured at six locations throughout Germany. This project will establish a valid, comprehensive and up-to-date database of body measurements and shapes that will enable the development of target group-specific clothing and personal equipment that fits even better and the procurement of the items in the required quantities. The data collected from the customer-specific 3D anthropometric survey project is also used to create digital test persons (avatars). These can be incorporated into ergonomic analyses of vehicle interiors to adapt the vehicles as accurately as possible to the specific requirements of the armed forces. All personnel, whether short, tall, broad or slim, must be able to optimally work or be transported with their equipment in these vehicles.
The need for up-to-date data stems from people changing over the decades, with an average statistic growth of one centimeter per decade. For example, there is no up-to-date data on the body measurements and body shapes of Bundeswehr soldiers — data that could create accurate size tables for clothing and personal equipment. The current 3D anthropometric survey project is aimed at changing this situation. “For special target groups such as the Bundeswehr, up-to-date data is necessary because it can be used to address soldiers’ clothing and equipment requirements in the best possible way during product development, ensuring that the correct sizes are available for the soldiers. If their clothing and equipment does not fit properly, this can become a safety risk in an emergency,” said Michael Stöhr, managing director of Avalution.
“The 3D anthropometric survey is an essential element in the varied activities within the Bundeswehr scope of clothing management digitalization. “We can only provide the soldiers with the precisely-fitting clothing and personal equipment they need, punctually and in the correct quantities, if we have up-to-date and accurate data on body measurements and body shapes,” said Dr. Carsten Zimmermann, a scientist at the Bundeswehr Research Institute for Materials, Fuels and Lubricants (WIWeB) and project manager for the 3D anthropometric survey.
Soldiers from all branches of the armed forces — Navy, Air Force, Army — will be measured with a 3D body scanner at six locations over two years. This will ensure that the data is as representative as possible for all members of the Bundeswehr. More than 340 soldiers of the German Navy have already been measured at the Naval Technical School in Parow near Stralsund, the first site of the measurement campaign. The next site will be the Jürgen Schumann Kaserne, the Noncommissioned Officer Academy of the German Air Force, in Appen near Hamburg, where the project will continue from the end of April 2022. The fall of 2022 will see more surveys at the German Army HQ in Munster, and additional survey locations in 2023 will be Cologne/Bonn, Koblenz and Berlin.
The soldiers will be recorded and digitalized in four postures by a non-contact, 3D body scanner at each survey site. A digital questionnaire will also record socio-demographic data, including family background, position within the armed forces, sporting activities and clothing preferences. The entire process takes less than half an hour for each participant.
The 3D anthropometric survey of the Bundeswehr will continue until the end of 2023, after which the results will be evaluated, processed in a database and finally handed over to the Bundeswehr for further use in 2024.
Automated wastewater treatment systems help the industry remain in compliance with local standards, while significantly reducing the cost of treatment, labor and disposal
TW Special Report
Textile mills and the entire textile manufacturing industry, whether utilizing fabric, dyes, cloth, yarn, or thread,
In contrast to labor-intensive multiple step processes, automated wastewater treatment can help to streamline production, usually with a one-step process.
must meet local wastewater requirements for effluent. Environmental agencies have identified 65 pollutants and classes of pollutants as “toxic pollutants”, of which 126 specific substances have been designated “priority” toxic pollutants. Failing to do so can result in severe fines that quickly escalate.
Typically, the wastewater generated from textile operations has certain characteristics that set it apart from common municipal wastewater managed by public or private sewage treatment plants globally. In the textile industry, dyes used in the design of textiles generate wastewater that contain synthetic and natural dyestuff, gum thickener (guar) and various wetting agents, pH buffers, and dye retardants or accelerators.
An automated wastewater treatment system can eliminate the need to monitor equipment in person while complying with EPA and locally mandated requirements.
Manufacturing fabrics in the textile industry requires large volumes of water in the dying process. Because the water becomes contaminated in the dying process, manufacturers must remove the contamination in the water to meet local wastewater requirements for effluent.
For the textile manufacturing industry, this means installing a wastewater treatment system that effectively separates the contaminants from the water so it can be legally discharged into sewer systems or even re-used.
However, traditional wastewater treatment systems can be complex, often requiring multiple steps, a variety of chemicals and a considerable amount of labor. Even when the process is supposedly automated, too often technicians must still monitor the equipment in person. This usually requires oversight of mixing and separation, adding of chemicals, and other tasks required to keep the process moving. Even then, the water produced can still fall below mandated requirements.
Automated systems not only reliably meet regulatory wastewater requirements, but also significantly reduce the cost of treatment, labor and disposal.
Although paying to have textile industry wastewater hauled away is also an option, it is extraordinarily expensive. In contrast, it is much more cost effective to treat the industrial wastewater at its source, so treated effluent can go into a sewer and treated sludge passes a TCLP (Toxicity Characteristics Leaching Procedure) test and can be disposed of as non-hazardous waste in a local landfill.
Fortunately, complying with local wastewater regulation has become much easier with more fully automated, wastewater treatment systems. Such systems not only reliably meet regulatory wastewater requirements, but also significantly reduce the cost of treatment, labor and disposal when the proper Cleartreat® separating agents are also used.
Complying with EPA and local wastewater regulation has become much easier with more fully automated, wastewater treatment systems.
Cost-Effective, Automated Wastewater Treatment
In contrast to labor-intensive multiple step processes, automated wastewater treatment can help to streamline production, usually with a one-step process, while lowering costs at textile manufacturing facilities.
An automated wastewater treatment system can eliminate the need to monitor equipment in person while complying with mandated requirements. Such automated systems separate suspended solids, emulsified oil and heavy metals, and encapsulate the contaminants, producing an easily de-waterable sludge in minutes, according to textile industry consultants at Sabo Industrial Corp., a New York City-based manufacturer, distributor and integrator of industrial waste treatment equipment and solutions, including batch and fully automated systems, Cleartreat separating agents, bag filters, and accessories.
The water is typically then separated using a de-watering table or bag filters before it is discharged into sewer systems or further filtered for re-use as process water. Other options for de-watering include using a filter press or rotary drum vacuum. The resulting solids are non-leachable and are considered non-hazardous, so will pass all required testing.
These systems are available as manual batch processors, semi-automatic, automatic and can be designed as a closed loop system for water reuse or provide a legally dischargeable effluent suitable for the sewer system. A new, fully customized system is not always required. In many cases, it can be faster and more cost effective to add to or modify a facility’s current wastewater treatment systems when this is feasible.
Effective separating agents which agglomerate with the solids in the wastewater so the solids can be safely and effectively separated out are essential.
However, because every wastewater stream is unique to its industry and application, each wastewater treatment solution must be suited to or specifically tailored to the application. The first step in evaluating the potential cost savings and effectiveness of a new system is to sample the wastewater to determine its chemical make-up followed by a full review of local water authority requirements, report textile industry consultants at Sabo Industrial.
The volume of wastewater that will be treated is also analyzed, to determine if a batch unit or flow-through system is required. Other considerations include the size restrictions, so the system fits within the facility’s available footprint.
Treated industrial wastewater
Separating Agents
Despite all the advances in automating wastewater treatment equipment any such system requires effective separating agents which agglomerate with the solids in the wastewater so the solids can be safely and effectively separated out.
Because of the importance of separating agents for wastewater treatment, Sabo Industrial uses a special type of bentonite clay in a line of wastewater treatment chemicals called ClearTreat. This line of wastewater treatment chemicals is formulated to break oil and water emulsion, provide heavy metals removal, and promote flocculation, agglomeration and suspended solids removal.
Bentonite has a large specific surface area with a net negative charge that makes it a particularly effective adsorbent and ion exchange for wastewater treatment applications to remove organic pollutants, heavy metals, nutrients, etc. As such, bentonite is essential to effectively encapsulate the materials. This can usually be achieved in one-step treatment, which lowers process and disposal costs.
In contrast, polymer-based products do not encapsulate the toxins, so systems that use that type of separating agent are more prone to having waste products leach back out over time or upon further agitation.
Today’s automated systems along with the most effective Cleartreat separating agents can provide textile industry facilities with an easy, cost-effective alternative so they remain compliant with local ordinances. Although there is a cost to these systems, they do not require much attention and can easily be more economical than paying fines or hauling.
NEW YORK CITY — April 21, 2022 — Chargeurs*PCC Fashion Technologies today announced that it has expanded its leadership team with three new executive appointments. The company has named Fabrizio Vincenzi as COO, Nico Dapoto as chief supply chain officer and Giorgio Marcarino as general manager, EMEA.
Vincenzi brings decades of operational, sourcing and product development expertise to Chargeurs. His most recent corporate role was as chief product engineer and director of sourcing for Brooks Brothers, where he led development and sourcing, including cost management, through the company’s offices in New York, Hong Kong and Milan. He also previously served as product manager for Turkey-based Karaca and, for 15 years, as general manager of his own garment manufacturing company in Italy. Reporting directly to Gianluca Tanzi, CEO of Chargeurs*PCC Fashion Technologies and Chargeurs Luxury Materials, Vincenzi will focus on implementing efficient, sustainable and innovative solutions in the company’s eight manufacturing facilities around the world.
Dapoto is a leader in supply chain transformation in the fashion and apparel industry who most recently served as senior supply chain manager for UAE-based Chalhoub Group. Prior to that, he spent nearly five years in New York at Brooks Brothers in a series of planning roles, most recently serving as director, Demand Planning, Financial Planning and Analytics. He previously served as Global Demand planner for Luxottica Group. He holds both a bachelor’s and a master’s degree in Industrial Engineering from Università degli Studi di Modena e Reggio Emilia. Reporting directly to Tanzi, Dapoto will oversee global demand planning, procurement, warehouse management and logistics, as well as order management, fulfillment and delivery.
Marcarino, who brings more than three decades of fashion and textile sales, marketing and operational experience to the role, rejoins Chargeurs-PCC after having served as the group’s sales director for Italy in the 1990s. In his new position, he will oversee all sales and operations in the EMEA region, reporting directly to Tanzi. Marcarino previously spent more than 20 years in a series of leadership roles at Marzotto Group, most recently serving as sales and marketing director of Fratelli Tallia di Delfino, the luxury brand of the Italian textile group.
“Fabrizio, Nico and Giorgio bring decades of rich experience to Chargeurs in their respective areas of expertise—operations, global supply chain management and international sales,” said Gianluca Tanzi, CEO of Chargeurs*PCC Fashion Technologies and Chargeurs Luxury Materials. “We’re extremely pleased to welcome Giorgio back to the company and to add Fabrizio and Nico to the team as we continue to execute our global growth strategy, take advantage of our global manufacturing footprint, and focus on driving sustainability and digital innovation.”
SAN FRANCISCO — April 21, 2022 — In recognition of Earth Day, Gap Inc. has released its 2021 Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) Report. This report reflects the progress that the company and its brands, Old Navy, Gap, Banana Republic and Athleta, made in 2021 toward building a more sustainable and inclusive business. Gap Inc. has aligned its ESG strategy to the pillars of Empowering Women and Human Rights, Enabling Opportunity, and Enriching Communities.
“At Gap Inc., our ESG vision is to be a driving force in the industry, collectively building a more sustainable future for our business, our communities, and the planet,” said Judy Adler, vice president of ESG at Gap Inc. “We have made meaningful progress toward our sustainability commitments, including achieving our goal to provide training and support to more than 1 million women and girls since 2007 through our innovative Personal Advancement & Career Enhancement (P.A.C.E.) Program. We will continue to adapt and innovate to improve sustainability for our business and our industry in the years ahead.”
Highlights from the Gap Inc. 2021 ESG Report include:
The USAID Gap Inc. Women + Water Alliance has empowered 1.5 million people with access to improved drinking water and sanitation since 2017, on its way to reaching 2 million people by 2023.
Old Navy’s This Way ONward program, which fuels the next generation of leaders with the skills and confidence they need to succeed in the workplace, is more than halfway to its 2025 goal of providing 20,000 job opportunities by hiring over 10,600 underserved youth since 2007.
Gap achieved its 2021 goal of using 100 percent more sustainable cotton in its products, and is committed to providing 100-percent regenerative, organic, in conversion to organic, or recycled cotton by 2030. Learn more about the brand’s raw materials here.
Banana Republic is committed to continuing to use the Global Responsible Wool Standard, Leather Working Group and Good Cashmere Standard for their fibers sourcing, to maintain biodiversity, improve animal welfare and agricultural practices, and support more responsible production.
As of 2021, 100 percent of Athleta’s company-operated stores in North America are offset by renewable electricity from Fern Solar, a 7.5-megawatt offsite solar project in North Carolina. Learn more about the brand’s climate initiatives here.
Gap Inc.’s Global Sourcing team has partnered with The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel on trialing hydroponic farming conditions for growing cotton in an urban environment. This 2021 project won the Silver Award at the 2022 International Exhibition of Inventions Geneva which recognizes inventions and research around the world under patronage of the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO), the Swiss Government and the City of Geneva. To learn more about this project, click here.
This report covers Gap Inc.’s global operations for fiscal 2021, which ended on January 29, 2022, unless otherwise noted. To view the full ESG Report and in-depth information about the company’s efforts to be a force for good, for people and the planet, please visit our redesigned ESG website, gapinc.com/sustainability.
HERZOGENAURACH, Germany — April 21, 2022 — Sports company PUMA has started to distribute 500 pairs of its experimental RE:SUEDE sneaker to participants in Germany after recording strong interest for this biodegradability project.
With the RE:SUEDE experiment, PUMA will test whether it can make a biodegradable version of its most iconic shoe, the SUEDE. The participants will wear the RE:SUEDE for half a year before returning their pairs to PUMA. The company will then send the worn RE:SUEDES to industrial composting experts Ortessa in the Netherlands, who will analyze whether the sneakers can biodegrade in a controlled, industrial setting.
“We are excited that we received many times more requests for the RE:SUEDE experiment than we had pairs available, which shows that there is a large interest in sustainability topics,” said Heiko Desens, Ggobal creative director at PUMA. “As part of the experiment, we will also gather feedback from participants about the comfort and durability of the sneakers, which will help us design future versions of the shoe, if the experiment is successful.”
PUMA’s global brand ambassadors, such as model, actress and activist Cara Delevingne, will also test the RE:SUEDE as part of this project.
The RE:SUEDE is made with materials such as Zeology tanned suede, biodegradable TPE and hemp fibers. Compared to other biodegradable materials that were evaluated by PUMA, these materials also ensure better comfort for the wearer.
The RE:SUEDE experiment is the first project to launch as part of PUMA’s “Circular Lab”, an innovation hub, which brings together PUMA’s sustainability and design experts who work on circularity programs. The recently announced RE:JERSEY project, in which PUMA pilots an innovative garment-to-garment recycling process, is also a part of “Circular Lab”.
LAKE FOREST, Ill. — April 21, 2022 — Leveraging its comprehensive material science expertise, Tenneco is introducing advanced OE hybrid friction material composites that simultaneously serve braking performance and comfort requirements in both internal combustion engine (ICE) and electric vehicles (EVs). The innovative new hybrid friction material combines the advantages of low steel (LS) and non-asbestos-organic (NAO) composites in one concept for brake pads.
LS materials offer high temperature braking performance and have the unique ability to remove disc corrosion. NAO materials enable good NVH performance and low brake dust contamination. Tenneco’s unique hybrid composite material is expected to cover a range of different market demands with a single approach and is particularly suited to the growing range of electric and electrified vehicles.
“I am proud that Tenneco continues its track record of bringing innovative friction materials early to market,” said Neville Rudd, group vice president and general manager, Tenneco Braking. In 2014, our team was one of the first to introduce copper-free braking materials for light vehicles, well ahead of industry regulation. “We see strong potential in our new hybrid friction material composites that enable us to offer outstanding braking solutions for various customer demands, including in the growing e-mobility segment. This expands and diversifies our product portfolio and strengthens our ability to deliver solutions for all our customers, regardless of powertrain strategy.”
Hybrid friction materials: Portfolio diversification in a demanding and changing market environment
While the braking system in traditional powertrains works to provide appropriate deceleration and short stopping distances, battery-electric vehicles, hybrid and plug-in-hybrid vehicles are mainly decelerated by recuperation, largely using the electric motor. When brakes are applied, silent braking performance is key to driver and passenger comfort as there is no engine noise. Reduced use of the brakes can also result in rotor corrosion and rust on the brake discs, which needs to be removed quickly to ensure proper braking performance. Additionally, there has to be sufficient friction power available for emergency braking purposes to ensure short stopping distances to comply with safety requirements.
Holger Schaus, vice president, Global Engineering, Tenneco Braking, added: “We are working closely with OEMs and Tier 1 braking suppliers to match specific requirements and help ensure best-possible performance and comfort with our newly developed advanced hybrid friction materials. While low steel and non-asbestos-organic composites feature different tribology regarding adhesion and abrasion, our comprehensive experience in dedicated material formulations and deep understanding of related science enable us to overcome challenges in this new field and develop advanced solutions that cover a broad range of technical requirements.”
The new hybrid friction material is in series production at Tenneco´s OE Braking facility in Chongqing, China. Several projects are in the testing and evaluation phase in Europe.
STOCKHOLM, Sweden — April 21, 2022 — Coloreel, with its unique technology for digital dyeing of textile thread on-demand for more sustainable and creative embroideries, announces a new order to Snuggle UK, a Peterborough, United Kingdom-based DTG print fulfillment company.
The deal was announced a few days before the Printwear & Promotion trade show in Birmingham where Coloreel is exhibiting together with distribution partner AJS Embroidery Services Ltd. You can see and experience the Coloreel technology live in booth nr K40, between April 24-26.
Sven Öquist, vice president, sales, at Coloreel Group AB commented: “We are very excited that Snuggle UK has decided to expand their print fulfillment offering by investing in the Coloreel technology and our products for more sustainable and creative embroideries. It’s another proof that our offering is a perfect match for the most successful print fulfillment and print on-demand companies.”
Shabbir Maimoon, director, Snuggle UK, commented: “As a digital printer we can see the changes in the industry and customers requiring innovative printing solutions to offer as large a color gamut as possible. Coloreel brings embroidery to the modern age by removing the shackles of color limitation and allowing suppliers to embroider garments in full colors, gradients and true to how customers would like to see their logos/artwork represented. It’s exciting to be able to work with Coloreel and be one of the first to offer this innovative solution to an age old problem.”
BIELLA, Italy— April 20, 2022 — In 2019, Filo launched the FiloFlow project with a specific goal: making the commitment of its exhibiting companies for sustainable products, production processes, and their ethical and social attitude clear to the general public. According to Filo, the commitment can be made explicit only with a global view to the textile supply chain to achieve truly sustainable and traceable products. The results reached by FiloFlow prove that the companies really appreciated this kind of approach.
FiloFlow is a long-term project, it is a “Project for supply chain’s traceability” as Paolo Monfermoso, Responsible for Filo, has defined it. “In our approach the concept of sustainability immediately merges with traceability and synergies along the production pipeline,” Monfermoso said.
Filo’s nine criteria of sustainability refer to the use of chemicals, water and energy consumption, recycling, combined with others related to social sustainability’s model towards the stakeholders and the ecosystem.
The very positive results achieved by Filo exhibiting companies are summed up in a number of diagrams, which you can find on Filo website. Just a few examples are enough to understand the commitment of FiloFlow companies to increasingly proper production solutions from an environmental and ethical point of view. In fact, 87 percent of companies use raw materials originating from pre and post-consumer recycling, while 97 percent use certified raw materials. 85 percent have developed a traceability program for their supply chain. 70 percent internally recycle their processing waste. 81 percent of FiloFlow companies have a certification relating to chemical management.
MIGDAL HAEMEK, Israel — April 20, 2022 — NILIT, a global supplier of nylon 6,6, is proud to introduce SENSIL® ByNature, a revolutionary new product that significantly improves apparel’s sustainability profile, life cycle analysis, and environmental impact. By using a certified Biomass Balance (BMB) material, NILIT replaces fossil raw material with renewable feedstock. Utilizing this ISCCplus certified material, SENSIL ByNature reduces GHG emissions and lessens dependence on non-renewable resources. Apparel made with SENSIL ByNature fabrics offers consumers a meaningful way to help reduce carbon footprint while keeping exactly the same comfort, performance, and longevity that they expect and get today from SENSIL.
“SENSIL ByNature is a ground-breaking innovation in premium nylon 6,6,” said Ilan Melamed, NILIT general manager. “SENSIL ByNature will significantly reduce carbon footprint while providing the highest quality man-made fiber for apparel. This is the kind of radical product development that the textile industry requires to effectively and quickly reduce its environmental impact and move to a more responsible position in the global marketplace.”
“We are very excited to work with NILIT to expand our Biomass Balance (BMB) material to the apparel sector,” said Frank Reil, head of marketing, new business development and sustainability polyamides at BASF. “NILIT shares our commitment to sustainability and together we will create new innovative products that substantially improve the textile and apparel industry and reduce environmental footprint.”
While SENSIL ByNature is clearly the smarter environmental choice, NILIT engineers have ensured that SENSIL ByNature fabrics also deliver the comfort and functionality that designers expect from premium nylon 6,6. Consumers will enjoy an enhanced sense of well-being that comes from selecting high-quality, long-lasting apparel that aligns with their personal values.
SENSIL ByNature is just the latest sustainable innovation from NILIT. The company recently launched SENSIL BioCare, enhanced with a special technology that helps lessen the persistence of textile waste in sea water and in landfills; SENSIL EcoCare crafted with recycled nylon; and SENSIL WaterCare pre-dyed Nylon, which saves 100 percent of the water used in the traditional wet dyeing process. Plus, the SENSIL portfolio of products is manufactured according to NILIT’s Total Product Sustainability criteria.