Denim Ingredient Brand ISKO Explores Solutions To Drive Sustainability In Garment Production

LONDON, England — April 13, 2023 — ISKO has made a point of driving sustainability in garment production since the early days with its Responsible Innovation approach, yet there are still challenges ahead for the industry as a whole when it comes to production processes which especially in the denim industry have been recognized as some of the most harmful and impactful.

What the sector needs is advanced technologies, both scalable and affordable, to allow the denim industry to reduce its impact on workers and on the environment, that and collaboration. Melissa Clement, ISKO’s head of product development, added: “The challenge is to invest in new technologies and machineries.”

ISKO has proved times and times again its stance on responsible textile supply chains, building consumer awareness, developing cutting-edge technologies and closed loop processes — Ctrl+Z, material science solution which results in fabrics made from a pure blend of recycled and regenerated content — as well as opening its first UK product development center, in London, to help brands develop their products employing sustainable processes. “Consumers awareness is key because the throwaway culture still needs addressing” stated Melissa Clement.

These were the highlights of the conversation led by ISKO’s Melissa Clement, with denim consultant Amy Roberton at the panel “Closing the denim loop: the power of knowledge and collaboration” held at the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Conference in London.

“As the scenario keeps evolving, it is essential that ISKO as leader gets an important point across as it continues to lead the way of innovation in denim: good practices, whether they regard washing or material, can be implemented at any scale, with the help of important partnerships to drive shared knowledge and bring circular ideas to life.” remarked Melissa Clement.

Posted: April 13, 2023

Source: ISKO

SGS Explores How Digitalization Is Revolutionizing The Process Of Garment Prototyping

TW Special Report

Technological advances have always driven fashion forward. Today digitalization is helping the fashion industry to address concerns over sustainability and rapidly changing consumer demands.

With sustainability a major concern in all industries, including fashion, designers and manufacturers are looking for innovative solutions that allow the delivery of products that consumers want but with a reduced impact on the environment

In a post-pandemic world, the process of designing new garments has not always kept pace with the shifting demands of a global market. Designers, buyers and manufacturers need to work collaboratively, but may live and operate in different countries. This has always slowed down the process of design and delivery but with sustainability now a central concern it has become untenable.

The fashion industry needs a more efficient way to design and prototype garments. The solution must reduce costs, be effective at enabling remote collaboration on a global scale and, to be of true value, fast, accurate and sustainable.

Digitalization in the fashion industry

Digitalization is the new technological paradigm. Industries working with rigid body materials, such as metal and plastic, have been using simulation programs to enhance the design process for several years. However, it was only in around 2020 that advances in computer simulation power began to make it possible for simulation software programs to render non-rigid body materials like leather and cloth.

This has opened up a world of possibilities for the fashion industry. Designers, manufacturers and buyers can now work virtually, collaborating without the need for travel. It reduces disruption, costs and environmental impact while also expediting the process of designing and delivering more efficient and sustainable products.

Fabric digitization

Fabric digitization eliminates the need for physical samples by allowing the creation of true-to-life 3D simulations of a textile or leather object. These high definition ‘digital twins’ exactly mirror the physical sample, including appearance, textures, draping behaviors and physical properties. They accurately describe the physical sample in a digital way that can be shared through the cloud with stakeholders working around the world.

Digital fabric samples have multiple advantages. By removing the need to manufacture and share physical samples, the process of designing, prototyping and approving products is cheaper, faster and more sustainable. Stakeholders can review, comment and feedback instantly and in parallel, re-adjusting designs and reaching agreement far quicker than traditional methods.

Fabric digitization software using a digital twin also allows interested parties to see how a garment will actually fit on various avatars engaged in different activities, creating a virtual fashion show and allowing accurate representations of tension and pressure feel. Designers can also build a digital library of fabric, thereby enhancing all future design projects and improving market outcomes.

SGS solution

SGS’s Softlines Digital Laboratory has developed services to streamline and expedite the textile design process. Its one-stop solution comprises:

Fabric scanning: 3D fabric scanning captures the various appearance and texture aspects of the textile material, including color or print pattern, transparency, toughness, displacement, etc.

Fabric physics: determines the essential physical properties of the textile material for the physical base rendering, including weight, thickness, bending and elongation

A digital fabric file with common format, such as u3ma, etc. is then created. This contains all the essential texture maps and physical properties data needed for common 3D digitalized platforms. Special formatted CVS files for fabric physics are also available for several common software programs, such as Browzwear, CLO 3D and Gerber. These can directly transfer physical properties data to the program.

Files can easily be shared with participating stakeholders via a cloud-based platform.

Benefits of SGS Fabric Digitization

  • Quicker design process;
  • Substantiable design process;
  • Reduces costs and environmental impact from elimination of actual prototype sample;
  • Enable client to build their own textile material library for future applications;
  • Compatible CSV file format for direct transfer of physical properties data to several popular simulation programs

April 13, 2023

Meryl Fabrics® To Headline An International Textiles Forum On Environmental Solutions Now Available

CONGLETON, England — April 13, 2023 — A multi-award-winning pioneer in hi-tech materials eliminating the use of fresh water, reducing pollutants and providing fully reusable fabrics with the first in-house circular solution offering in textiles, Meryl Fabrics® will lead a global textile webinar program exploring how fabric selection can deliver the circular economy in workwear manufacturing.

Meryl Fabrics has been invited by the Professional Clothing Industry Association Worldwide Ltd (PCIAW®) to join other esteemed leaders to share their knowledge to help solve the sustainability problem of professional clothing. Businesses wishing to gain insights from the information provided can register for a free-to-attend webinar, which will go live at 2:30 pm (BST) on Friday, April 21, 2023.

Nisha Muire, Uniform Program manager for Air Canada and Karen Sparrow, director for Red Sparrow Consulting, will join the webinar as guest speakers discussing the versatile applications of the Meryl Fabrics sustainable textiles.

Stanley Russell, owner and director of APT Fabrics, will join the webinar to discuss the technological breakthrough in circular fabric solutions, which removes the need for water, chemicals and solvents in the textile dyeing process whilst preventing the problem of microplastic shedding.

Jamie Meigham, CEO and co-founder of Uplift360, will also speak on the webinar to help evaluate the price vs cost point of view in the tender process and how changing how we consider lifetime cost can help to justify spending on the quality that lasts.

Peter Broom, co-founder and director of Meryl Fabrics, said: “Our company is on a mission to lead a radical environmental change in the materials used in the textile industry, starting from a molecular quality structure to provide fully reusable innovative yarns and fabrics with zero microplastic pollution.

“We are in a privileged position to be able to support businesses in making the transition to achieving circularity in their workwear procurement and are looking forward to sharing our knowledge base.”

To obtain more information on the complimentary webinar and register for the event, visit:- https://us06web.zoom.us/webinar/register/8016793103614/WN_ncJoWJO6R1yookn2UUa_2g#/registration

Meryl Fabrics celebrated in 2022 a record year for awards after chalking up an impressive 11 winner, highly commended and finalist trophies presented by international and UK bodies in recognition of their firm’s significant achievements in achieving sustainability with textile innovation. And following this, the pioneering firm has secured another four major finalist accolades in the first quarter of 2023.

Most notably, the firm was named Winner of the Circular and Recycling Award, National Sustainability Awards 2022; Winner – of the Industry Award for Sustainability, Professional Clothing Industry Association Worldwide Ltd. (PCIAW) and Winner of the Sustainability Award, Med-Tech Innovation 2022.

Driven by problem-solving, the award-winning Meryl Fabrics uses hydrogen technology to enhance the molecular structure of fibres, seal-in microplastics within the yarn and improve the durability of garments. Their continual innovation in Meryl® Eco Dye offers a waterless dyeing process, saving thousands of litres of water during fabric manufacture as they re-engineer the presence of apparel. Meryl Fabrics seeks to replace cotton with its exceptionally soft touch fabrics that feature natural stretch and moisture management properties designed to be recycled and offer other businesses a fully circular model in one place.

Posted: April 13, 2023

Source: Meryl Fabrics®

ANDRITZ, Nouvelles Fibres Textiles And Pellenc ST Enter Partnership For An Innovative Approach In Textile Recycling

GRAZ, Austria— April 13, 2023 — International technology group ANDRITZ entered an ambitious partnership with Pellenc ST and Nouvelles Fibres Textiles to set up the very first industrial-scale automatic textile sorting line in France combining automated sorting and recycling technology.

The partners have expert knowledge from decades of experience in sorting technologies (Pellenc ST), textile machinery and processes (ANDRITZ), as well as post-consumer textile value chains from sorting to manufacturing (Nouvelles Fibres Textiles newly founded by Les Tissages de Charlieu and Synergies TLC).

The new textile sorting line being built is the first to combine Pellenc ST’s automated sorting technologies with ANDRITZ’s recycling technologies. It will process post-consumer textile wastes to produce recycled fiber engineered for the spinning, nonwoven and composite industries. Starting operations in mid-2023, it will serve as a production line for Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, as an R&D line for the three partners, and as a test and demonstration center for their customers.

Nouvelles Fibres Textiles aims to become a reference in both industrial grade material production and industrial scale post-consumer textile sorting, thanks to innovative technologies with hard point removal providing pure fibers, selective colors, and differentiated fiber types.

Nouvelles Fibres Textiles’ partners also work closely together in R&D at the ANDRITZ Laroche and Pellenc ST technical centers to keep pushing technical boundaries.

Eric Boël, president, Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, commented: “We are very proud to announce the launch of the Nouvelles Fibres Textiles partnership. Several years of R&D involving key players from both textile and household waste management industries made this possible. We all shared our knowledge and expertise to promote on-the-ground circularity for textiles by full integration of the value chain. This guarantees traceability of recycled materials, mitigates the textile and composites industries’ environmental impacts and reduces their carbon footprint while creating meaningful jobs.”

Posted: April 13, 2023

Source: ANDRITZ GROUP

Tonello: DyeMate, All The New Shades Of Indigo

SARCEDO, Italy — April 13, 2023 — DyeMate is the new Tonello patent-pending technology that revolutionizes and reinterprets the traditional indigo garment dyeing process, taking it to a new evolutionary stage and making it automatic and repeatable, efficient and sustainable.

The tradition of indigo dyeing dates back to ancient times and was cultivated mainly in Egypt, India and China, where the deep blue obtained was considered a precious symbol of beauty, nobility and prestige. The same shade of blue also has always characterized the unmistakable “look” of the fascinating Tuareg, the free men of the Sahara.

That tradition has come down to us virtually unchanged: in fact, the process of indigo garment dyeing has been entirely manual up to the present day, with results that have always been uneven and dependent on the skill of artisans who have passed on their knowledge and skills from generation to generation, resulting in a priceless cultural legacy embodied in unique pieces characterized by an inimitable style.

DyeMate, technology at the service of beauty

Why is DyeMate an important new revolution by Tonello? Because it recovers and reinvents tradition with a process carried out in a nitrogen atmosphere, without oxygen, with controlled reduction and oxidation.

Thus, this new indigo garment dyeing system allows for absolutely cool results that perfectly overlap, in terms of charm, perceived authenticity and “aesthetic flavor,” with those of denim, which fades and in fact becomes vintage with the passage of time.

DyeMate, in short, does not merely imitate and industrialize traditional indigo dyeing; instead, it takes it to a new and higher level, safeguarding its cultural heritage and allowing this timeless art to live on in the contemporary world.

DyeMate, the advantages:

  • High reproducibility and productivity of the process, fully automated;
  • Maximum sustainability because DyeMateworks at low temperatures and dramatically lowers the use of reducing chemicals;
  • Possibility of also making sulfur and VAT dyes with the same technology; and
  • DyeMate is an external kit: it is therefore easily applicable to all Tonello washing and dyeing machines.

DyeMate would not have been possible without the precious support of Archroma, who provided Denisol Pure Indigo 30 liq, an aniline-free indigo solution, Artistic Milliners, for believing in the project early on, being its first mover, and to Franky Vangaever of Responsible-ti, who provided his valuable know-how.

Posted: April 13, 2023

Source: Tonello srl

Champion Thread Welcomes Larry Radford As USA Dyehouse Manager

Radford

GASTONIA, N.C. — April 12, 2023 — Champion Thread welcomes package dyeing expert Larry Radford to the role of Dyehouse manager for its all-new, South Carolina thread and yarn dyeing facility. Radford brings over two decades of dyehouse color lab, production technology, and operations management experience to head the company’s bold new investment in the U.S.A. manufacturing and textile workforce.

Radford developed his skills in color shade matching, equipment operation, and process optimization over 20 years of prior dyehouse supervisory and management experience with Mastercraft Fabrics and Spectrum Dyed Yarns in the Carolinas.

Champion Thread President Matt Poovey noted that, “Larry brings extensive subject matter expertise that ensures we will continue to raise the customer service bar for quality, productivity, sustainability and workforce development through a domestic supply chain.”

Posted: April 12, 2023

Source: Champion Thread Company®

EuroCommerce, The National Retail Federation (NRF) Release White Paper Supporting Transatlantic Data Privacy Framework

WASHINGTON — April 12, 2023 — Ahead of next week’s expected European Parliament resolution on an EU-U.S. agreement covering transatlantic data transfers, EuroCommerce and the National Retail Federation today released a white paper on the issue and urged institutions on both sides of the Atlantic to swiftly adopt and implement the framework.

“The new EU-U.S. Data Privacy Framework would represent a clear improvement over the former Privacy Shield program,” said Christel Delberghe, director general of EuroCommerce, which represents retailers and wholesalers in Europe. “Following more than two years of uncertainty and disruption, it will facilitate responsible data transfers for retailers and wholesalers alike.”

“U.S. retailers support a reliable and legally valid transfer mechanism that allows them to serve their customers in the EU while maintaining the highest data protection standards,” NRF President and CEO Matthew Shay said. “This analysis shows that the new framework would ensure legal certainty and provide a durable, long-term mechanism for safeguarding consumers’ data while benefiting consumers and businesses alike.”

In December 2022, the European Commission launched the process of approving the EU-U.S. Data Privacy Framework by issuing a draft adequacy decision concluding that the agreement provides adequate safeguards comparable to those in the EU. The European Parliament is currently preparing a resolution for publication next week.

The white paper prepared by EuroCommerce and NRF delivers a detailed legal analysis, particularly with respect to establishment of a new Data Protection Review Court under U.S. law. The analysis shows that the new framework would address cumbersome and costly-to-implement standard contractual clauses currently required for personal data transfers between the EU and the United States and would introduce improvements regarding the necessity and proportionality of government access in line with requirements of the European Court of Justice. That, in turn, would free up resources of retailers and wholesalers to further protect the privacy and security of consumers’ personal data by fortifying online system defenses, investing in advance personnel training and monitoring, and assessing privacy and security risks from service providers.

In addition, the white paper dives into the role of the Data Protection Review Court established by the United States for handling complaints of EU individuals implicating matters of U.S. national security. It confirms that the U.S. legal system authorizes creation of administrative tribunals like the DPRC, and that it would be comprised of qualified judges with independent authority to issue final and binding decisions directing remedial measures to be undertaken by U.S. intelligence agencies. EuroCommerce and NRF believe this mechanism meets Court of Justice requirements of providing adequate and effective redress to EU individuals.

EuroCommerce and the NRF encourage the European Commission to take the views of the European Council, the European Parliament and the European Data Protection Board into account and look forward to the timely adoption of a final adequacy decision and implementation of the Data Privacy Framework.

NRF and EuroCommerce have worked together on EU data privacy rules since 2016, holding annual joint meetings with EU officials with the goal of developing approaches to safeguard consumers while fostering regulatory certainty for transatlantic retailers. The previous Privacy Shield was struck down by the Court of Justice of the European Union, the EU’s highest court, in its July 2020 ruling in the Schrems II case. That ruling came only four years after the Shield replaced an earlier U.S.-EU Safe Harbor Agreement on transatlantic data flows rejected by the same court in 2015 in the original Schrems decision. Since 2020, standard contractual clauses approved by the European Commission have served as an alternative for businesses transferring data between the United States and the EU. Nonetheless, conditions set by the court on their use and supplementary measures recommended by the EDPB have made it more challenging and less predictable for retailers to rely on the clauses after Schrems II.

Posted: April 12, 2023

Source: The National Retail Federation (NRF)

INDEX™ 2023 Exhibitor Preview: Kelheim Fibres

KELHEIM, Germany— April 12, 2023 — Absorbent hygiene products such as diapers, sanitary pads, and incontinence products are an integral part of our daily lives. However, most of these products contain synthetic components and contribute to the global plastic waste problem. The search for alternatives is becoming increasingly urgent. The catch is that only innovations that offer the same performance and reliability as conventional products can be successful in the market. After all, no one wants to compromise in such a sensitive area as personal hygiene.

Kelheim Fibres is currently working on various development projects to design fully biobased AHP (absorbent hygiene product) concepts that do not compromise on performance. In this area, the company continues to focus on its wood-based specialty fibers, which the tampon industry has trusted for decades. However, the requirements for AHP products differ, as each layer must fulfill a specific function.

To meet these requirements, Kelheim Fibres has developed a range of functionalized specialty fibers, including hydrophobic Olea, trilobal Galaxy®, and the hollow fiber Bramante. These specialty fibers ensure optimal results in every layer of the AHP product.

All of Kelheim’s fibers are manufactured from 100-percent wood pulp derived from certified and sustainably managed forests. They are fully biodegradable — microorganisms in soil and seawater ensure that no residues remain.

“As pioneers in our industry, we do not limit ourselves to producing innovative fibres,” said Dr. Crnoja-Cosic, director of New Business Development at Kelheim Fibres. “Together with our partners we develop holistic concepts that cover the entire value chain. Through this collaboration based on the Open Innovation principle, products are created that take into account the real needs of customers and are thought through from beginning to end, so they can be quickly ramped up to a commercial scale.”

A current example of such a partner project is the development of a completely bio-based panty liner with the nonwovens manufacturer Sandler and the hygiene products manufacturer pelzGROUP, which is due to be launched on the market shortly.

In addition to new projects in the field of biobased disposable and reusable solutions, Kelheim will also present its tried and tested fibers at the fair, for example for tampons or flushable wipes. The Kelheim Fibres team is looking forward to your visit at booth 2415 at INDEX.

Posted: April 12, 2023

Source: Kelheim Fibres GmbH

RUDOLF HUB 1922 Innovations Will Be Presented At Kingpins

GERETSRIED, Bavaria — April 3, 2023 — Looking at the runways of fashion and luxury brands and the variety of denim novelties constantly on display, it is never a question of whether to wear denim, but rather “how” to wear it.
 However, if we look at the mainstream markets and if we pay more attention to garment finishing, a very different picture emerges in the stores. At all retailers and across all sales channels, we tend to find simple finishes: commercial dark, medium, light shades and distressed looks. No more resinations, no coatings, no printing, no glitter, little tinting and over-coloring.

It’s all about simplicity.

Simplicity is what the market demands in terms of finishing, because differentiation mostly comes from silhouettes, details and branding.
Simplicity is about authenticity and original denim looks that go back to the origins. And simplicity is, above all, an opportunity for reduced environmental impact.

At the upcoming Kingpins show, taking place April 12-13 in Amsterdam, RUDOLF HUB1922 will showcase its simplified and highly conscious range of distinctive products for total abrasion, local abrasion, bleaching and special softening.

“In fact, there is nothing really simple about our products” said RUDOLF HUB1922 Director Alberto De Conti, while referring to the chemical auxiliaries, which are designed according to a thorough scientific approach and made from renewable raw materials such as food waste or recycled plastics. “Simple is the product range we offer to achieve a variety of amazing esthetics and a much lower environmental impact”.

Posted: April 12, 2023

Source: RUDOLF GmbH

VEOCEL™ Expands Responsible Viscose Fiber Portfolio With New Global Offerings

LENZING, Austria  — April 12, 2023 — Lenzing Group, a global producer of wood-based specialty fibers, has announced the expansion of its sustainable viscose fiber portfolio globally with the launch of carbon neutral* VEOCEL™ branded viscose fibers for Europe and the United States. In Asia, Lenzing will convert the existing production capacity for conventional viscose into capacity for responsible specialty fibers in the second half of this year. The expansion represents VEOCEL’s latest act in providing nonwovens value chain partners and brands with offerings that make a positive impact on the environment and empower an industry-wide shift to reduce carbon footprints.

“Everything we do is centered around VEOCEL’s mission to be a responsible everyday care brand and demonstrate our care for the future of our planet. We believe it is imperative for us to not only reduce our own carbon emissions, but also to empower our partners to reduce their carbon footprint. The launch of our carbon neutral* VEOCEL Viscose fibers via our production plant in Austria and the investment in converting our production plant in Asia to production of environmentally responsible viscose, highlights our commitment to ongoing innovation and driving positive environmental impact. We hope that by taking responsibility to effect real change within the industry, we can build a better tomorrow for future generations,” said Monique Buch, vice president, Global Nonwovens Business, Lenzing.

Carbon neutral viscose to support booming hygiene market**

For the carbon neutral* VEOCEL Viscose fibers Lenzing has partnered with ClimatePartner, a leading solution provider for corporate climate action. The fibers are made from wood and pulp sources derived from sustainably and responsibly managed forests, following the stringent guidelines of the Lenzing Wood and Pulp Policy and trusted forest certification systems. They are produced in Lenzing’s production plant in Austria, an integrated site where actual carbon emissions are reduced through leveraging efficient production methods, such as the direct production from wood to fiber, as well the use of renewable energy sources such as solar power and biomass. To offer the fibers as carbon neutral products, the emissions were measured, reduced and unabated emissions were offset by financing climate projects.

Carbon neutral VEOCEL Viscose fibers produced in Austria will be available from May 1, 2023, onward. With effective liquid management properties, the wood-based fibers are targeted for the wipes and absorbent hygiene product segment, an area where demand has significantly increased since the COVID-19 pandemic***.

To support the growing demand for sustainable nonwoven products, Lenzing and Suominen have been working closely with Lenzing’s first carbon neutral fiber launch, VEOCEL Lyocell fibers resulting the first carbon neutral nonwoven, BIOLACE® Zero to the market. The collaboration continues with Lenzing’s newest product launch, carbon neutral VEOCEL Viscose fibers. Nonwoven roll-goods made utilizing VEOCEL Viscose fibers are available for Suominen’s clients. “We are happy to see Lenzing growing their sustainable fibers portfolio. Collaboration throughout supply chain is the key to increase sustainable product development in nonwoven’s market,” said Marika Mäkilä, senior manager, Category Management, Europe.

Production plant upgrade helps gear up for eco-responsible viscose in Asia

To address the steadily growing demand for sustainable materials in Asia, Lenzing has started to convert capacity for conventional viscose into capacity for environmentally responsible specialty fibers in its Asia-based production plants. This will enable a more optimized production process and efficient use of energy for the production of VEOCEL branded responsible viscose fibers. These responsible specialty fibers will help address the growing demand for more sustainable materials in everyday body and hygiene products, as well as in surface cleaning wipes. The conversion is expected to be completed in the second half of this year.

*Carbon neutrality is achieved by balancing remaining GHG emissions through verified compensation measures (e.g., reforestation) and by retiring carbon credits so that the impact of global warming from human-related industrial and agricultural activities is calculated to zero.


**Hygiene products market forecast to grow faster than projected global GDP through 2027, Smithers 2023 


*** Hygiene products take centre stage, In-Cosmetics, 2021

Posted: April 12, 2023

Source: Lenzing Group

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