lsWASHINGTON, D.C. — While the rate of growth of textile and apparel imports slowed somewhat
during September 2000, their total volume for the first three quarters of the year continued to set
new records, according to a report issued today by the American Textile Manufacturers Institute
(ATMI). According to data released Nov. 21 by the U.S. Department of Commerce, textile and apparel
imports increased 9.7 percent during September compared to September 1999, with imports of textile
products – yarn, fabric and made-up furnishings – rising 10.6 percent above the prior year’s level
and apparel imports growing 8.9 percent. During the first three quarters of the current year,
textile imports rose 19 percent and apparel imports increased 15 percent, bringing the combined
gain to 17 percent. “September was the first month in over a year that total textile and apparel
imports didn’t increase by double-digit rates,” said ATMI President Roger W. Chastain, chairman and
CEO of Mount Vernon Mills, Inc. “After seeing import increases of 17, 19, 24 and even 32 percent
month after month, I suppose we should be grateful that September’s increase was ‘only’ 9.7
percent,” Chastain continued. “Nonetheless, there are individual country increases that are
disturbing. Textile and apparel imports from Pakistan are up 37 percent for the first three
quarters of this year, compared to last year. Thailand is up 22 percent and imports from Brazil are
67 percent ahead of last year. “All of these countries have closed their domestic markets to our
goods, but they’re free to flood us with theirs,” Chastain said. “Our government needs to use the
tools at its disposal to compel these countries, and others, to live up to their Uruguay Round
commitments and provide access to their textile and apparel markets. “There is some good news in
the trade data, however,” said Chastain. “Exports of textile products rose nearly 23 percent during
September and for the first nine months of the year are up 17 percent. This will be a
record-breaking year for textile exports, but we could be doing more if we could get access to
markets that remain closed to our products.” The nine-month increase in textile exports was paced
by North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) partners Mexico and Canada, the United States’ first
and second highest destinations for textile exports. For the first three quarters of the year, U.S.
textile exports to Mexico totaled $2.85 billion, a 41.5 percent increase over the same period last
year, while U.S. textile exports to Canada reached $2.07 billion , a 3.4 percent increase. Chastain
noted, “Between them, our northern and southern neighbors account for 63 percent of U.S. textile
exports.” Export gains were also registered with the 24 countries that are members of the Caribbean
Basin Initiative — up 16.6 percent from the first nine months of 1999 – and the European Union,
6.2 percent ahead of prior- year levels. Exports of apparel, which consist mostly of cut fabric
pieces, rose 7.1 percent during September and are a modest 1.2 percent ahead for the year to date.
“On the homefront, we’re looking at a challenging time for the U.S. textile industry,” Chastain
said. “Interest rate increases are hitting housing and auto sales, where we’ll be seeing a
slowdown, along with a cooling of consumer spending.” In other industry news, the latest figures
from the U.S. Department of Commerce and the U.S. Census Bureau show the following: *As the U.S.
economy slowed in the third quarter, textile mill shipments also declined. Third quarter textile
mill shipments fell 1.9 percent from the second quarter and lagged third quarter 1999 by more than
2 percent. This weakness brought shipments during the first three quarters of 2000 to $58.3
billion, slightly below the same period in 1999. *New textile orders had a sharper decline than
shipments in the third quarter. Down nearly 5 percent from the prior quarter, new orders were more
than 4 percent below third quarter 1999. However, strength earlier in the year kept cumulative new
orders for the first three quarters of 2000 nearly 1 percent ahead of the same period last year.
However, new orders, which had been above shipment levels from January through July, fell below
shipments during August and September, indicating continuing weakness in shipments over the near
term. *The weakness in new orders brought unfilled orders in September down more than 1 percent
from the prior month and nearly 2 percent below September 1999 levels. *The slowdown in shipments
pushed inventories up almost 1 percent in September from August to a level more than 4 percent
above September 1999. With shipments down and inventories up, the inventory-to-shipments ratio
jumped in September to its highest reading since February 1991. *Following two consecutive
quarterly increases, fiber consumption on the cotton spinning system dropped 7.5 percent in the
third quarter of 2000 to less than 1.5 billion pounds. This brought third-quarter consumption more
than 1 percent below the comparable quarter in 1999. Consumption during the first three quarters of
2000 was down 3.6 percent to less than 4.7 billion pounds. *Although overall employment in the
United States is tight and the unemployment rate hovers near a 30-year low, textile industry
employment continued to erode. The industry employed 534,000 workers in October 2000, 2.9 percent
or 16,000 below the same month in 1999. *Like other textile indicators, the textile workweek
declined in the third quarter of 2000. Down 30 minutes from the second quarter, the third quarter
workweek was six minutes shorter than that of third-quarter 1999. However, despite another decline
in October, the industry’s average workweek during the first 10 months of 2000 was 24 minutes
longer than the comparable period in 1999. This increase was because of workweek strength during
the first half of this year. *Third-quarter textile sales and profits figures were not available at
press time. However, textile corporate sales rose 7.3 percent in the second quarter of 2000 over
the prior quarter. Second-quarter sales, at $15.2 billion, were 1 percent below the comparable
quarter in 1999, and sales during the first half of 2000 fell to $29.4 billion, 3.2 percent below
the same period last year. *Although second-quarter 2000 after-tax profits were 7.1 percent higher
than second quarter 1999 results, at $150 million, they were more than 44 percent below the
prior-quarter’s profits. Despite lower second-quarter figures, first-half 2000 profits reached $420
million, nearly 22 percent higher than first-half 1999 results.

During a recent meeting of the Association of Swiss Textile and Clothing Industry in Bad
Ragaz, Switzerland, the outlook presented for the century is positive. In the first half of 2000,
textiles sales were up 5 percent.In 1999, the Swiss textile and clothing industry achieved a
turnover of CHF 4.3 billion ($2.5 billion), of which $2.7 billion came from textiles and $1.6
billion from the apparel sector.A majority of the 400 individual companies that are members of
Swiss Textiles are medium-sized firms, and many are privately owned. Combined, they employ 26,000
people. At one time, there were 25 different organizations representing different aspects of the
textile and apparel industries. Since early this year, however, for the first time in its
tradition-laden history, Switzerlands textile and clothing industry is united under one name, Swiss
Textiles.Reporting on the aims of Swiss Textiles, Ronald Weisbrod, CEO, Weisbrod-Zurrer, said,
Today, the Swiss textile and clothing industry can speak with one voice. The challenge is deciding
on a concerted approach for an industry dealing with widely divergent product ranges. The industry
must project the image of an attractive partner: innovative, flexible, creative, cooperative and
with a convincing price/performance ratio.The association has selected the theme: Swiss TEXTILES:
Dont limit your imagination get it produced. The associations vision for the future, Weisbrod
reports, includes creating an image based on quality products, service and innovative ideas. It
aims to make an impact on the market by means of highly specialized know-how, and of being
perceived as a needs-oriented partner.Attention should be directed to supporting and fostering
young talent in the textile industry worldwide, Weisbrod continued. One of our goals is to
safeguard the future of our industry, a future which will be determined primarily by the coming
generation of talent in the textile field. Annual contributions exceeding CHF 1.5 million have been
earmarked for highly innovative promotional measures for young talent, including some that are
interactive.The diversity and global impact of textile products from Switzerland is, as Weisbrod
noted, enormous. From state- of-the-art textile machinery through to the finished garment, the
common denominators that have been in place for generations are efficiency, quality and
reliability. Add to that flexibility, innovation and creativity going into the 21st
century. U.S. Upland Cotton Spun At UznabergOf the 5,200 tons of cotton spun annually at
Spinnerei am Uznaberg, between 40 and 80 percent is upland cotton from the United States. A large
portion of that is extra-long-staple Pima from California and Texas which, according to Albert
Zehnder of Spinnerei am Uznaberg, is the best cotton grown in the world. The exact amount purchased
each year is dependent upon monetary exchange and variables of the growing season.Founded in 1833,
Uznaberg embarked on major expansion plans in 1982. Along with new machinery and equipment, a new
two-story building is in place. A total of CHF 32 million has been spent on this new facility.
Today, one-third of Switzerlands ring-spun cotton yarns come from Uznaberg. In 1998, the turnover
was CHF 38 million.With Rieter Machine Works less than 40 kilometers away, we have easy access to
the latest technology, Zehnder said. There are six conventional frames and three new compact frames
from Rieter in the new facility. The new ComforSpin machines are only sold in Europe. With them,
the yarn produced has less hair; better abrasion resistance and higher strength; takes color
better; and has fewer imperfections.Raw cotton coming into the mill is opened and broken up with
Rieter UNIfloc machines and blown to the second floor, where impurities are removed and the fiber
is cleaned using Rieter UNIclean equipment. Combing, roving and twisting machines are from Rieter.
Equipment is completely automated, tubes are automatically replaced and broken yarns are
automatically spliced.The six G 33 ring-spinning machines, having 70-millimeter gauge and 1,200
spindles each, produce quality yarns at up to 22,000 revolutions per minute and have a maximum
delivery rate of 22 meters per minute. They are the longest ring-spinning frames available.All of
the machines are computer- monitored and quality-controlled online. Quality checks can be
maintained offline. The newest equipment was installed in December 1999 and started up in June
2000. When we constructed our new facility, we planned for future expansion, Zehnder stated. At the
moment there is demand for our product. Our strong point is our ability to respond rapidly and
flexibly to customers requirements. Special twists, special counts and special make-ups performed
at short notice are no problem.Fifty percent of the yarns produced are for knitting; the other half
are for weaving. More than 85 percent are for export, mainly to countries within the European
Union. 175 Years Weaving Fine SilkThe silk-weaving firm Weisbrod-Zurrer was founded in 1825 by
Jakob Zurrer as a commercial concern, trading in fabrics woven on domestic looms in local farm
houses. Business flourished, and the company soon became a manufacturing enterprise. The first
factory building was constructed in Hausen in 1850; the first mechanical loom was acquired in 1870.
In 1892, the company installed its own electricity plant.The popularity of Zurrer’s specialized
silk products expanded to the international market. As the dictates of fashion fluctuated, new
looms, created by one of the founders sons, were installed and adjusted to meet the changing
demands.When the third generation took over early in the 20th century, a partnership was formed and
the company became ZurrerandCo. It was in this generation that the name Weisbrod came into the
family by marriage.With the fourth generation came the advent of synthetic fibers. Weisbrod-Zurrer
began using nylon and acrylic in 1947. In 1951, the firm entered a period of expansion with the
building of a new, modern mill with 26 looms. In 1964, the family concern became a public limited
company, operating under the name Weisbrod-Zurrer AG. In 1967 the fifth generation came into the
company when Ronald Weisbrod joined as a junior partner. In 1984, he took over as CEO after the
death of his uncle. 

Today, Weisbrod-Zurrer Ltd. has a turnover of CHF 40 million per year. The company sells 2
million meters of fabric annually, half of which is produced in its own mill, half in facilities
around the world. In its own mill, there are 52 modern jacquard looms weaving 29 tons of silk, 15
tons of wool, 155 tons of synthetics and 12 tons of blended yarns into 1 million meters of
fabric.Weisbrod-Zurrer sells to customers in 40 countries, with 90 percent of its production going
outside of Switzerland. Sixty-five percent of its fabrics go into womens apparel, 15 percent to
interior fabrics, 15 percent to the tie market and 5 percent into a broad category that includes
products as diverse as clerical robes and flags.An average of CHF 1 million is invested back into
the company annually. Recent acquisitions include a computer network with 65 terminals and CAD
systems with 5 work stations.Today, we are concentrating on our core business, said Weisbrod. ‘We
are niche-market players working in a global market. If we cant do it competitively, we give it up
and go on to something else. We work on a 7-percent cash-flow margin in order to have funds
available for appreciation and for profit.Most of the fabrics woven at Weisbrod-Zurrer are
yarn-dyed jacquards. Electronic jacquard machines operate on two floors, with as many as 1,300
threads going into a repeat. Fabrics are heat-set; no finishing is done at the Hausen
facility.Along with high quality, design innovation plays an important role in product development.
More than 1,000 new designs are created in the companys own studios every year. Here creative
experimentation goes hand-in-hand with scientific tests and high-tech processes.A wide variety of
yarns is on hand for development work, ranging from thick and thin yarns to wire, paper, raffia and
metallic yarns. Specialized products include moires, silk flag damasks, double weaves and lenos.
Special effects range from nonwoven ribbons with shrinking effects and puffed surfaces to jacquards
with cut threads. Great care is taken to remain true to the companys individual creative style a
style which is committed to traditional craftsmanship and technological innovation said
Weisbrod. Science Fiction Becomes Reality At SchoellerSchoeller Textile AG was founded in
1868. Original production was basic fabrics for mass markets. In 1979, the company became part of
the Albers Group, a holding company that, in textiles, also includes yarn companies in Germany,
Austria and the Czech Republic, and Spinnerin Inc., a garment-dye company in the United States.In
the 1980s, Schoeller made a U-turn, going away from basics to become a niche-market producer of
high-tech functional fabrics for sportswear, leisurewear, protective clothing and interiors. Its
business dropped dramatically, from CHF 80 million to CHF 6 million. Today, the turnover is around
CHF 60 million.According to Hans-Jurgen Hubner, CEO, the key to success lies in the development of
new and innovative products. Our Sevelen production facility has invested over CHF 40 million in
the last 10 years, giving us a leading edge in innovation, technology and creativity. Our
development laboratory, weaving mill, dyehouse and coating equipment form the basis of an
efficient, market-focused production operation.In the 1980s, Schoeller pioneered in stretch fabrics
for active sportswear. In 1989, it became an in-house technology company, introducing to the market
multi-functional protective fabrics that are now in demand at leading fashion houses. Schoeller is
selling techno fabrics to names like Armani, Cardin, Hechter and Lacroix, along with Bogner, BMW,
Timberland and Hartmann Luggage.We are producing intelligent fabrics, Hubner continued. We are
working with all branches of the industry and developing specialized fabrics for extreme sports,
industrial protection and fashion. Today, there are over 400 manufacturers using our fabrics.Some
of Schoellers recent innovations involve changing the optics and surfaces of fabrics. They are
producing cloth which protects against bacteria, odor, smog, sunlight, fire, static and stress.One
of the companys most sought after new developments is ComforTemp®, the Phase Change Material (PCM)
developed for NASA. Millions of microcapsules embedded in the fabric actively regulate temperatures
by storing the excess heat when it is too warm and then releasing it when it becomes cooler.
ComforTemp has been picked up by manufacturers of apparel for skiwear and mountain biking, as well
as casual streetwear.Another recent innovation is Keprotec®, which is lightweight, tear-, abrasion-
and friction-heat resistant and breathable. Keprotec contains DuPonts aramid fiber, Kevlar®,
blended with nylon and metal. Created for the world of extreme sport and work protection, it is
finding its way into street and casual wear. Currently, there are 22 Sulzer Ruti 4-gauge machines
weaving Keprotec fabrics.At Schoeller, anything is possible. New ideas mentioned include fabrics
which will stimulate heart rhythms, self-medicate and change appearance on command.One new concept
is patented hydrophobic technology based on the lotus-blossom effect and nanotechnology. Lotus
blossom leaves have a regular, rough microstructure that reduces the contact surface for dirt.
Because of their hydrophobic surface, a raindrop will roll over the surface, taking dirt particles
with it.Concern for the environment is of major concern at Schoeller. New dyeing equipment is being
installed that uses considerably less water, thereby creating less waste. Other machinery in place
treats waste to make it biodegradable.In just a few years, we have gone from being a creative
fabric manufacturer to becoming the global market leader in innovative textile technology, Hubner
said. Textile Printing As A Fine ArtThere are still things the computer and modern technology
have not perfected. At the textile print works of Seidendruckerei Mitlodi AG, screens for printing
high-quality fabrics are still largely made by hand. Here, quality is a tradition which has been
ongoing for decades.Although a majority of the original customers, who demanded the best silk or
cotton prints the world could produce, have largely disappeared, Mitlodi is still producing fine
textiles. We have been through some difficult times, said Urs Spuler, director, but the worst is
behind us.In the 1990s, we began to identify areas where we could prosper and decided to
specialize. Today, we have a turnover of CHF 15 million. One of our most profitable areas is bed
linens. We do contract printing for the home furnishings market on a global basis, and print silk
fabrics for womens outerwear, said Spuler. One of our major customers in the United States is
Brunschwig et Fils, Decorative Fabrics. Mitlodi prints a wide variety of fabrics, ranging from
knits and sheer wovens to heavy upholstery weights. The majority of fabrics contain natural fibers,
but synthetics are increasingly in evidence, depending upon customer demands. 

Mitlodi uses state-of-the-art flat-bed and machine-screen-printing equipment. Hand-worked
cylinders that print wet fabrics will print limited editions of 1,000 meters. Generally, this work
is done for a very few top clients, such as the silk firm Jakob Schlaepfer, which sells to haute
couture.There are screens that will print an entire length of fabric. Table printing, where the
cloth moves, can run up to 35 colors. The results are ultra-sharp. Another development is the
companys multi-colored striped printing process.Colors are controlled by computer. They are mixed
using Fimat machines. The computer can mix anywhere from five to 600 colors. Data can be stored and
recalled as needed. Color try outs are run off by hand and checked by a color artist before final
client approval. Fabrics are steam-washed to force dyes in faster. End finishing is done at Mitlodi
and at their facility in Como, Italy.We have established a good position worldwide, said Spuler.
Our niche is top quality printing and finishing and service to high-fashion markets around the
world. Embroideries For The Masses And The ClassesForster-Rohner AG was established in 1904 as
an embroidery factory by the grandfather of the present owners. Located in St. Gallen, the company
has long been regarded as the worlds major area for producing fine embroideries. In the 1920s,
embroidery was the most important industry in Switzerland. By the 1930s, that business collapsed.
It was revived after World War II, when luxury items came back into fashion.In 1965, the business
was taken over by three brothers, Peter, Ueli and Tobias Forster. As long as we adapt to fashion,
decorating garments and products for the home will always be in fashion, said Ueli Forster.In the
1950s and 60s, Forster- Rohners customer list read like the Whos Who in haute couture. Dior,
Balenciaga and Givenchy topped that list. Today, the company still sells to top names in design,
but the bulk of its business is done for branded lingerie manufacturers. 

In addition to production facilities in St. Gallen, Forster-Rohner has wholly-owned
subsidiary companies in Austria and Spain. They have joint ventures in Japan, China, Thailand,
Mexico and Morocco.Tobias Forster explained that via the companys international network and with
modern technology, it can increase production by 10 percent a year. In 1992, we had 48 machines
here in St. Gallen; in 1998 we had 34 and were producing more.Bulk orders are run on 30 Saurer 21-
yard-long looms, and two 15-yard Lasser looms. Large orders can be completed in a few weeks.
Embroidery is done on both dyed and unfinished fabric. A small amount of silk or cotton is used,
primarily for couture customers. The bulk of embroidery threads are nylon, polyester or rayon.
Lycra embroidery is becoming increasingly popular.There are more than 500,000 designs in the
100-year-old design archives. Nine designers create new patterns by hand. Work is based on French
inch squares, which are longer than the American inch.Eighteen technical designers convert design
data and scan it into computers. Some designs contain as many as 5,700 stitches. Embroidery
machines were once driven by punch cards. Today, with computers doing this work, the process is
three times faster.Forster-Rohner anticipates fashion trends and presents its own forecast to
customers seasonally. Although themes are the same for all end-use areas, materials differ.For Fall
2001, outerwear fabric suggestions include silk mousseline, hand-painted velvet, brushed wool,
iridescent taffeta and lace. Gold, cellophane fringe, and matte and shiny yarns will be used for
embroidery.For lingerie, popular base cloths will include microfiber tricot, double charmeuse,
elasticized net, stretch velvet, leather-like tricot and shimmering fabrics knit with Tactel®
Diablo. Painted-effect embroideries will be stitched with soft, metallic gold threads twisted with
colorful polyester yarns. Transparent elastic will be used for shoulder straps. Swiss
Textiles: Success Through ConsolidationThe merger of various textile branches and their
associations has led to a concentration of strengths and resources, which has proved successful in
every respect. By identifying profitable niche markets in a global economy, investing in new
equipment, partnering with customers, fostering young talent and maintaining an image of quality
and service, Swiss Textiles is looking ahead to a profitable future.

December 2000

The Wall of Fame is an institution at many companies. Along this few feet of space, be it in a
boardroom, lobby or other usually opulent environment, homage is paid to those people who have made
significant contributions or enrichments to the history and development of the company.At DuPonts
Spruance Plant in Richmond, Va., such a wall exists but one of a different sort. There are no
expensively commissioned portraits of company founders, no pictures of past presidents and no
tributes to corporate benefactors. There are no expensive frames, and no strategically arranged
spotlights. In fact, the display is in an area that is normally not available for public access.
Simple frames hang on a plain, painted wall that surrounds one of the plants testing laboratories.
In these frames are pictures, plaques and news clippings of men and women who owe their lives to
one of Spruances flagship products: DuPonts Kevlar®. A Household NameKevlar is an aramid fiber
originally developed in the 1960s by DuPont chemists for use in automobile tires. The advent of the
steel-belted radial limited Kevlars presence in that market segment, so DuPont scientists turned
their attention to other potential applications, in particular protective clothing. It was in this
niche that Kevlar has become virtually a household name, synonymous with bullet-proof vests, SWAT
and emergency response teams and other high-risk law-enforcement activities.Inside the test lab
around which the aforementioned photos are placed, DuPont conducts ballistics tests to determine
the capabilities of certain Kevlar weaves and constructions to absorb, contain and deflect energies
from the high-velocity impact of bullets and projectiles. Products with different weaves or fiber
construction are given grades that correspond with the force it takes to penetrate the fabric.
Depending upon the risk inherent in their assignments, law enforcement officers can choose among
Kevlar vests that stop small-caliber bullets to those that will stop .44-magnum and larger
shells. 

The record of Kevlar protective garments in protecting those for whom they were designed is
impressive. Not once has a Kevlar protective garment failed to perform the task for which it was
designed, said Brian E. Foy, senior marketing specialist, Kevlar brand management. There have been
a number of instances, however, in which a Kevlar product has protected law enforcement officers
from threats for which it was not intended.Foy cited in particular a case a few years ago involving
a Virginia State Trooper. The officer made what he thought was a routine traffic stop on a Virginia
interstate. However, the cars driver shoved the officer into the traffic lanes, directly into the
path of an 18-wheel semi traveling at 65 mph. The trooper caught the impact of the truck full in
the chest and was knocked 100 feet down the highway. He was knocked unconscious and should have
died immediately from massive chest trauma. But, the Kevlar vest deflected much of the impact
force, and the lucky officer walked away with nothing more serious than severe bruises.Strangely
enough, though at least to the non-scientific mind a Kevlar vest that will stop a 9-millimeter slug
fired from 10 feet way will yield to the puncture of an ice pick thrust with only moderate arm
strength. So, for those instances in which law enforcement or military personnel are faced with a
greater danger of stabbing than shooting, DuPont manufactures a different Kevlar product that can
be woven into a puncture-resistant garment. This particular weave and multi-layer composition of
Kevlar can withstand the impact of an ice pick dropped from a height of 10 feet with four pounds of
weight, substantially more force than can be provided by a human being.With the success DuPont has
enjoyed with Kevlar in life-critical applications, its not surprising the company has now
diversified its product offering into a variety of industrial, scientific and popular consumer
market segments. As well, because of Kevlars reputation for strength, durability and abrasion
resistance, DuPont is finding some companies overemphasize the content of Kevlar within their
products, using the name to generate sales without actually providing all of the benefits of Kevlar
construction.Before exploring specific new applications for Kevlar, as well as the new licensing
program developed by DuPont, it is of benefit to look in more detail at the composition of Kevlar,
as well as its fiber forms and potential application areas. The ProductKevlar was developed in
1965 by two DuPont research scientists Stephanie Kwolek and Herbert Blades – who were looking to
create a fiber with exceptional strength, but which was also lightweight and flexible. It is an
organic fiber in the aromatic polyamide family, also known as aramid. Fibers of Kevlar consist of
long molecular chains produced from poly-paraphenylene terephthalamide. The chains are highly
oriented with strong interchain bonding that results in an unusual combination of properties.
General features include high tensile strength at low weight, high modulus (structural rigidity),
high chemical resistance, high toughness, high cut resistance, low elongation to break, low
electrical conductivity, low thermal shrinkage, excellent dimensional stability and
self-extinguishing flame resistance. 

The product is available in multiple forms, including:Continuous filament yarn: This form
features high tensile strength and can be processed on conventional weaving machines, twisters,
cord-forming, stranding and serving equipment.Staple: Kevlar staple fiber features very high cut
resistance and can be spun using conventional cotton or worsted spinning equipment. Staple consists
of precision-cut short fibers, 1/4-inch or longer, and can be processed on felting and spun-lace
equipment.Wet pulp and dry floc: These consist of precision-cut short fibers, 1/4-inch or shorter
and feature thermal resistance and excellent friction and wear resistance. Pulp and floc are
miscible in blend composites.Cord: Kevlar cord features high tensile strength and modulus at low
specific weight. It retains physical properties at high and low temperature extremes, features very
low heat shrinkage and creep, and has good fatigue resistance.Fabric and prepreg: These forms of
Kevlar give good ballistic performance at low weights, excellent friction and wear performance and
excellent resistance to cuts and protrusion. 

All Kevlar polymer is mixed and manufactured at Spruance. The fiber is spun at Spruance, as
well as two other DuPont locations. In addition to Kevlar, the Spruance Plant manufactures a number
of DuPonts other high-performance fiber lines, including Nomex® and Teflon®. Because of the
proprietary nature of Kevlar, DuPont prevents access to specific manufacturing processes. However,
the strength of the fiber, as well as the way it is produced, requires several innovative
processes. Kevlar polymer is mixed and stored in large hoppers. One hopper feeds the two spinning
plants at Spruance, while another stores the dry polymer for shipment to another DuPont spinning
facility. The fiber is spun and wound in a continuous process. Sulfuric acid is critical to the
formulation and production of Kevlar, so the yarn has to be washed repeatedly before it is wound.
Special finishes can be added during winding, depending upon the fabrication method anticipated for
the yarn. Because of the strength and modulus of the fiber, special cutters are required during
doffing to prevent damage. The finished yarn is wound onto packages for weaving, knitting and
nonwoven fabric formation. If necessary, additional twist can be added at this stage. Kevlar
ApplicationsA comprehensive list of Kevlar applications includes:Adhesives and sealants
Thixotropes;Ballistics and defense Anti-mine boots, cut-resistant gloves, composite helmets, and
bullet- and fragmentation-resistant vests;Belts and hoses Automotive heating/cooling systems,
industrial hoses, and automotive and industrial synchronous and power transmission belts;Composites
Aircraft structural body parts and cabin panels, boats, and sporting goods;Fiber optic and
electromechanical cables Communications and data transfer cables; ignition wires; and submarine,
aerostat and robotic tethers;Friction products and gaskets Asbestos replacement, automotive and
industrial gaskets for high-pressure/high-temperature environments; brake pads; and clutch
linings;Protective apparel Boots; chain-saw chaps; cut-resistant industrial gloves; helmets (both
for firefighters and consumer bicyclists); and thermal- and cut-protective aprons, sleeves,
etc.;Tires Aircraft, automobiles, off-road, race vehicles and trucks; andRopes and cables Antennae
guy wires, fishing line, industrial and marine utility ropes, lifting slings, mooring and emergency
tow lines, netting and webbing, and pull tapes.Kevlar brand fiber is five times stronger than steel
on an equal weight basis, Foy said, yet, at the same time, is lightweight, flexible and
comfortable. It provides reliable performance and solid strength. Because it is so lightweight,
Kevlar enhances freedom of movement even in the most extreme conditions.Kevlar draws its strength
from its long molecular structure. When a bullet hits Kevlar fabric, the fabric actually absorbs
the energy of the bullet along the molecules of each fiber, catching it in a multi-layered web of
woven fabrics. These engaged fibers absorb and disperse the energy of the impact to other fibers in
the weave.In addition to the bulletproof and puncture-resistant forms, DuPont also markets what the
company calls Multiple Threat Technology, which includes Kevlar encompassed within concealable body
soft body armor worn by special law enforcement, security, transportation and correctional
officers. It provides cut protection from commercial knives, puncture and slash resistance from
hand-made weapons and ice picks, and protection from handguns.The chemical structure of Kevlar also
gives it properties useful in industrial applications, Foy said. Gloves, sleeves and aprons benefit
from Kevlars high strength, high modulus, thermal stability and resistance to many solvents and
chemicals, he said. Kevlar offers strength under heat, protecting against thermal hazards up to
800ºF, and its flexibility enables easy movement.Protective apparel incorporating Kevlar is used in
such industries as automotive, steel, glass, metal and forestry, he said. In addition to apparel
such as protective gloves, specialized applications have been developed for specific industries.
For example, Kevlar is used in chainsaw chaps that provide cut protection for the logging industry
and U.S. Forestry Service.Other applications include protection for fiber optic cables, ropes and
high-strength composites for aviation and aerospace applications. Hot MarketsLaw enforcement
and industrial applications aside, perhaps nowhere does Kevlar have more marketing potential than
in sports, recreational and other outdoor activities, Foy said.In competitive sports, the best gear
has the tendency to bring out the best performance in the athlete, he said. The major advantage
Kevlar brings to performance-oriented activities is an adjustment in attitude. It enables the
athlete to focus on performance rather than the product. For example, a cyclist can channel all of
his or her energies into winning a race, rather than worrying about the vulnerability to flats of
tires reinforced with Kevlar.On the track, where strength and lightness is critical, running shoes
with Kevlar soles maximize the energy output of runners while protecting vulnerable parts of the
foot. For demanding outdoor recreational activities like hiking or mountain climbing, shoes that
incor-porate Kevlar technology provide support and strength and help disperse shock, increase
energy and lessen fatigue.Abrasion-resistant jackets, helmets, backpacks and other such products
are gaining wide accept-ance among motor-cylists, skaters, hikers and others. In water sports,
boats reinforced with Kevlar are lighter and more damage-tolerant, resulting in both hulls and rigs
that can withstand extreme weather conditions with improved toughness and durability, he said.
Kayaks and canoes are more resistant to damage caused by rocks and submerged tree limbs. For
sailing applications, Kevlar adds high strength and low stretch to sails, which can help increase
speed.Kevlar is a successful brand for DuPont, according to James B. Ranson Jr., global Kevlar
brand manager for Dupont Advanced Fiber Systems. Aided recall studies indicate the brand is in the
top 10 percent in brand-name overall impression among consumers and industrial market segments.
Consumers, as well, recognize the name and associate Kevlar with high performance, durability and
quality, he said. Our goal is to further increase the brand recognition of Kevlar, Ranson said.
This becomes particularly important as Kevlar becomes a major player in segments outside the
products core markets.It is the experience of DuPont that a strong brand facilitates brand and
product extension, particularly with a product such as Kevlar, Ranson said. He described Kevlar as
a transformational product. It is not what Kevlar does that is the selling point, but what it
allows other products to do. Because of the extensive name recognition of the brand, it is not
surprising that many products in high-performance arenas particularly sporting goods leverage the
Kevlar name to enhance sales, even if those same products do not necessarily use Kevlar to increase
performance.Foy and Gary M. Burnett, senior marketing communications specialist, discussed the case
of one athletic equipment manufacturer that mentioned Kevlar six times on the packaging. All well
and good, except for the fact that the product contained a very small amount of Kevlar and not in a
fashion that enhanced performance.This is an example of the Kevlar name being used to increase
sales of a product without providing the consumer any benefit, Foy said. But the fact is, Kevlar
could be used to significantly enhance the performance of this product. It is very important to us
that when the Kevlar name is on the packaging, the product delivers enhanced benefits for the
consumer. Foy said DuPont is working with the manufacturer of the athletic equipment to reformulate
the composition of the product to include Kevlar for added strength. New Licensing ProgramAs a
result of such experiences, and in a move to protect both its brand integrity and the consumer,
DuPont has initiated a new licensing program for Kevlar-enhanced products. The Kevlar Power of
Performance licensing program will benefit both serious and recreational athletes in the consumer
market and is in keeping with DuPonts corporate strategy of providing market-focused support for
its strong portfolio of technical brands, Burnett said.The new program is the result of a
three-year research program to understand and define the values, as well as both market and
consumer perceptions, associated with Kevlar. DuPont worked with a number of brand and marketing
communications experts to develop a new signature for the product, which will debut in 2001
collections.The Power of Performance program requires consumer product manufacturers to secure a
royalty-bearing license from DuPont in order to use the Kevlar brand name. This license will be
granted only after products made with Kevlar fiber have been shown to comply with stringent
quality, performance and compatibility standards, Burnett said. Royalties to DuPont, which will
depend upon the end-use of the application, will be calculated as a percentage of wholesale
price.Manufacturers that do not qualify for a license can use the Kevlar material, but they will
not be allowed to use the Kevlar name.The need to develop the Power of Performance licensing
program became apparent to DuPont when it realized the Kevlar brand and its powerful associations
to quality and performance was being used fraudulently in the marketplace, Burnett said. A recent
survey of some 40 different motorcycle gloves sold in the United Kingdom, for example, revealed an
alarmingly high number of them labeled as Kevlar or containing Kevlar when, in fact, they contained
either no Kevlar whatsoever or mere token amounts with zero protective capability.With a name and
reputation such as that of Kevlar, if the package says Kevlar, the product has to perform.
Editors Note: This is the first article in a three-part series that examines the manufacture
and marketing of synthetic fiber. ATI chose DuPonts Kevlar® for this series because of the
reputation and performance of the product, expansion of Kevlar-enhanced products into new consumer
market segments and an aggressive new licensing program undertaken by DuPont to protect the
integrity of its advanced fiber brands. In this issue, ATI provides a general overview of Kevlar.
In upcoming issues, ATI will profile a plant that weaves Kevlar and provide a look at brand-house
and retail marketing of advanced fiber products.

December 2000

The American Textile Machinery Exhibition-International (ATME-I) 2000 opened Oct. 23, 2000, with a
ribbon cutting ceremony. South Carolina Lieutenant Governor Bob Peeler and Greenville, S.C., Mayor
Knox White cut the ribbon, assisted by American Textile Machinery Association (ATMA) Chairman
Timothy J. Whitener, president, Luwa Bahnson, Winston Salem, N.C.; and Richard K. Heusel, chairman,
Textile Hall Corp., and founder and CEO, KM Fabrics, Greenville.ATME-I 2000 featured 539 exhibitors
from 25 countries. The five-day show attracted more than 9,600 visitors from 53 countries.In
related news, ATMA and Textile Hall Corp. announced that ATME-I will be held in Greenville,
presumably in 2004 and 2005, under the current split show format, making the following statement:
[In 1999], the two organizations announced their intention to consolidate ATME-I into a single
show. That objective has not changed. The co-sponsors will continue to evaluate the feasibility and
advantages to the textile industry in the Americas, as well as to all the machinery and service
exhibitors located throughout the world, of providing a single, all-process machinery exhibition
[see ATME-I 2000: Two Many, ATI, this issue].

December 2000