TW Special Report

With sustainability now the primary driver in all consumer product markets, SGS — a testing, inspection and certification company — examines the demand for sustainable fashion and the importance of certifications like the bluesign® PRODUCT label for combating greenwashing.

In the global fashion industry, projections indicate that the sustainable segment is expected to grow steadily over the next few years, with a 1.4 percentage point increase between 2023 and 2026.¹ This growth is partially driven by younger generations who define themselves as environmentally conscious and are reaching economic maturity.

Barriers to sustainability

Choosing a product that is truly sustainable can be a challenge for consumers. Markets are flooded with products that claim environmental credentials, but how many of these claims can be trusted?

In a 2022 survey of US consumers, 54% stated they found it confusing to identify which fashion items were environmentally friendly, with only 5% strongly disagreeing and saying they felt it was easy.² Part of the difficulty is that many consumer product markets are now blighted by ‘greenwashing’, defined by the European Union as, “the practice of giving a false impression of the environmental impact or benefits of a product, which can mislead consumers.”³

The proliferation of claims and labels can make it challenging for the eco-conscious consumer to find a product that genuinely meets their requirements. What they need is reliable certification, provided by a trusted and independent verifier, that confirms a product meets clearly defined standards for sustainability.

bluesign® PRODUCT

The bluesign PRODUCT label provides consumers with assurance that the product they buy adheres to the highest safety standards, meets minimum requirements for environmental and human impact, and is made using responsibly sourced materials. This label can be applied to:

• Clothing, including denimwear;
• Home textiles, excluding carpets and textile wall coverings;
• Equipment – tents, luggage, etc.; and
• Footwear, excluding brown shoes.

Certification is achieved following a rigorous assessment of the product and its supply chain, evaluating factors such as energy, water and chemical consumption, CO2 emissions and waste generation. Supply chain impact data for these parameters is collected from brands, materials manufacturers and chemical suppliers, providing a clear overview of the environmental performance of the inputs, facility and product.

The criteria for bluesign® PRODUCT certification are complex, building confidence in the assessment process and label. Certified apparel must meet the following requirements:

• Possess a textile character;
• At least 90 percent of the fabric used in the apparel must be bluesign APPROVED;
• At least 30 percent of the accessories used in the apparel must be bluesign APPROVED (rising to 40 percent from 2027);
• All components (fabrics or accessories) not bluesign APPROVED must be supplied by a qualified supplier and must meet the brand’s restricted substances list (RSL); and
• If an additional claim is applicable for the certified apparel (e.g. organic cotton), third-party certification must be available.

In addition, there are specific requirements for denim manufacturers regarding the use of indigo dyes, laundry practices and sandblasting. To be certified as a bluesign® PRODUCT, denim products must meet the following criteria:

• Outer fabric must be at least 90 percent denim;
• 100 percent of the denim fabric must be bluesign APPROVED;
• 90 percent of textiles must be bluesign APPROVED (rising to 40 percent from 2027);
• All components (fabrics or accessories) not bluesign APPROVED must be supplied by a qualified supplier and must meet the brand’s restricted substances list (RSL);
• Prohibited practices include chlorine bleaching, pumice stonewashing, sandblasting, and the use of potassium permanganate (PP) and powder-based enzymes;
• If an additional claim is applicable for the certified apparel (e.g. organic cotton), third-party certification must be available

In the case of footwear, alongside the requirements for additional claims and non bluesign APPROVED components, certification demands that 90 percent (by area) of skin contact materials (textile upper, lining and insole), midsole and outsole, and at least 30 percent of total accessories, must be bluesign APPROVED.

Consumer Benefits

Purchasing a bluesign PRODUCT provides consumers with assurance that the product meets exacting standards for environmental impact reduction and better working conditions in the supply chain. It guarantees transparency and trustworthiness in an era when greenwashing is a significant issue.

Consumers can easily identify the bluesign PRODUCT label, which can be found as a hangtag, sewn-in label or printed on the garment and/or packaging. They can also shop for bluesign PRODUCTs via the bluesign SHOP.

SGS & bluesign

SGS joined forces with bluesign in 2008 to develop its services and strengthen the independent bluesign SYSTEM solution. From fiber to finished product, bluesign partners with brands, manufacturers and chemical suppliers to promote safer workplaces and textile products that are less impactful on the environment and people.

References:

1 Global: sustainable apparel revenue share 2013-2026 | Statista

2 Confusion over sustainability of clothes U.S. 2022 | Statista

3 Stopping greenwashing: how the EU regulates green claims | Topics | European Parliament (europa.eu)

October 15, 2024

By Jack Yuen

SGS — a testing, inspection and certification company — works with manufacturers and suppliers of disinfectants, antiseptics, textiles, leather goods, plastics and furniture materials to help them assess the virucidal qualities of their products.

The 2020 COVID-19 pandemic brought about significant changes in the way we live and deepened our understanding of viruses. With the pandemic thankfully fading into the past, what can manufacturers do to ensure antiviral products continue to protect consumers?

Disease spread can be rapid in an interconnected world, crossing borders and significantly impacting global health and economies. Preventing virus transmission is difficult because disease can spread via several different vectors — aerosol, droplet, contact with a contaminated surface, etc. Alongside vaccination and the proper use of personal protective equipment (PPE), effective utilization of hygiene products, such as disinfectants, antiseptics and antiviral surfaces in public spaces, is crucial for reducing disease transmission.

Heightened Public Awareness

Public awareness of how easily viruses can spread via everyday items was enhanced during the pandemic. Personal experience meant consumers were suddenly aware of the real risks associated with viruses and the fact some pathogens can linger for extended periods on surfaces like office doors, kitchen countertops, mobile phones and clothing. This led to greater demand for products with proven antiviral properties.

Antiviral Testing

Trust in antiviral claims can only exist if the claim is backed by rigorous testing. Several antiviral efficacy standards exist enabling manufacturers to verify the claims they make relating to antiviral properties. However, not all standards apply to all products and so manufacturers are advised to work with expert testing laboratories to select the appropriate internationally recognized standard for their product.

Useful testing standards include:

• Disinfectants and antiseptics: EN 14476 assesses virucidal activity against common viruses like Vaccinia virus, Human adenovirus 5, Human poliovirus type 1, and Murine norovirus strain S99 Berlin. Viruses are incubated on test samples under specific conditions set by the manufacturer and standard, such as contact time and temperature
• Textiles: ISO 18184:2019 evaluates the antiviral activity of textiles against viruses like H1N1, H3N2 and Feline calicivirus. Virus particles are applied to textile samples and reference fabrics, incubated, and the remaining viral load is quantified to determine efficacy
• Plastics and non-porous materials: ISO 21702:2019 is used to assess the virus-stopping abilities of plastics and other non-porous materials. The testing process is similar to ISO 18184

These tests allow manufacturers to confirm the virucidal efficiency of their products, which is especially important when items are used by multiple people and the risk of pathogen spread is increased.

Additional Benefits

For manufacturers, ensuring product effectiveness is paramount. However, applying these stringent test methods to relevant consumer products offers additional advantages. As consumers become more aware of the risks of viral transmission via surfaces, products that demonstrate proven efficacy will gain greater consumer trust and help build a brand’s reputation. Testing also reduces liability and enables market differentiation.

SGS Solutions

Delivered through a global network of state-of-the-art laboratories, SGS’s testing solutions cover the full range of standards, including EN 14476, ISO 18184 and ISO 21702. Whatever the consumer product, SGS services help to ensure goods are safe, high-performing and market ready.

Editor’s Note: Jack Yuen is Health & Nutrition Sustainability Development deputy director at SGS. Geneva.

October 15, 2024