Rotaflon™ Seals Developed For Extreme Conditions

American High Performance Seals Inc., Oakdale, Pa., has developed its Rotaflon elastomeric seals
for rotating shafts to function in extreme operating conditions. Available in two main series, the
seals tolerate surface speeds of up to 5,900 feet per minute and temperatures between -58°F and
500°F, have good chemical resistance, and are suitable for operation with poor lubrication.

February 2003

Electrifying Opportunities


S
tudies in the area of “electronic textiles” or “electrotextiles” have captured
researchers’ attention worldwide. Recently, many reports and papers have been published, and
conferences and symposiums held covering this fast-growing area of research and development.

The reason for such interest is the potential to develop smart fabrics that can sense,
respond and adjust to stimuli such as pressure, temperature or electrical charge. Thermal clothing
such as blankets and jackets that  protect humans, pets and animals from cold weather, musical
jackets and a flexible foldable computer keyboard are some electrotextile products that are
commercially available today. But these are only the beginning. Material scientists, textile
engineers and technologists, computer scientists, and electrical engineers are working on combining
electronics and textile structures to come up with new products that are flexible, conformable and
lightweight; and which potentially may be produced at the speed of current traditional textile
structure manufacturing.

Research and development targets civilian and military applications such as: woven antennae;
acoustic array – a woven fabric circuit combined with an acoustic sensor that locates sources of
sound, such as gun shots or enemy vehicles; active woven fabrics with electroactive constituents to
improve the drop precision of parafoils; formation of transistors on flexible substrates, such as
thin ribbon yarns; yarn batteries and flexible and conformable solar cells to harvest and provide
electrical power to electrotextiles; and flexible textile circuitry used for fashion and design –
for example, in fabrics that can change color on demand. It is expected that electrotextile
products will find their way to new markets such as healthcare, entertainment, safety, homeland
security, computation, communication, thermal uses, protective clothing, wearable electronics and
fashion, as well as energy harvesting from tensioned structures and other large-area fabrics.

New advances in weaving technologies have led to the development of high-speed, highly
automated weaving machines. This combination and the ordered structure of woven fabrics provide new
opportunities for the weaving industry to produce woven fabric circuits and electrotextiles at high
speed.

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Lawrence, Mass.-based Malden Mills Industries Inc.’s Polartec®Heat™ technology —
available in this North Face MET5 jacket — features heated panels connected to a lithium
battery-powered controller to deliver three modes of user-adjustable warmth. The jacket is shown
undergoing Thermal Mannequin Testing for insulation and wicking properties at the US Army Natick
Soldier Systems Center, Natick, Mass.


Relevance Of Woven Structures

Due to their excellent mechanical and physical properties, woven fabrics have established
themselves in many different end-use products. Today, woven fabrics are used in countless civilian
and military applications such as apparel, upholstery, curtains, seat covers, seat belts, rugs,
wall covers, parachutes, weather balloons, tents, vehicle covers, and air-supported and tensioned
structures. They are the choice for many applications for various reasons including: high
uniformity; high strength; high tear and abrasion resistance; controllable air permeability;
dimensional stability; durability; flexibility; conformability; recovery from relatively high
stresses; and light weight.

In addition, woven fabric structures can provide a complex network that can be used as
elaborate electric circuits with numerous electrically conducting and non-conducting constituents,
and can be structured to have multiple layers and spaces to accommodate electronic devices. For
example, rigid printed circuit boards are structured with wiring layers separated by insulating
layers with vias connecting power, ground lines and wiring of different layers to process/transfer
signals. These boards, which are fabricated using the slow process of photolithography, can
potentially be replaced with flexible, stitched, multi-layered woven fabric structures that can be
produced at speeds of 40 to 100 square meters per hour depending on weaving speed, pick density and
weaving machine width
(See Figure 1). The stitches in such fabrics constitute the vias.

Currently, there are many commercial electrically conducting yarns made from metals or from
polymers coated with metals. Some examples of these are short-staple and continuous-filament steel
yarns, copper yarns, and silver-coated nylon yarns. These yarns are made from very thin fibers or
filaments that make them feel and behave like textile yarns.

Current studies indicate that researchers will meet the challenge and will succeed in
producing polymeric yarns with electrically conducting cores, solar-cell yarns, battery yarns and
electronic devices with sub-micron thicknesses built – or extruded as continuous filament – on
yarns. Furthermore, it is believed that these yarns can be produced in large quantities and may be
available on package forms similar to those for traditional textile yarns. When these 
products become a reality, complex multifunctional “electrowoven” structures – or electronic woven
structures – may be produced at high speeds. While new advances in weaving would be assets in this
vein, many other challenging developments are needed as well.

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Electro-conductive textile (E-CT) products, such as the Infra-Therm Heated Dog Jacket and
Infra-Therm Rug Heated Cat Basket, from England-based Gorix Ltd. have low ohmic resistance and
become hot when excited by low-voltage electricity.


Automatic Formation Of Woven Circuits

Formation of woven circuits requires the interconnecting or welding of two or more
orthogonal yarns at selected crossover points. Because yarns in woven fabrics run from selvage to
selvage, or continuously along the fabric length, cutting of yarns may be required depending on
circuit design. The formation of interconnects and disconnects, or cutting, of today’s electrowoven
products is conducted manually post weaving. While today’s electrowoven products are simple, future
products will demand more complex circuits. To avoid human errors and provide affordable products,
automatic formation of interconnects/disconnects is essential.

Several interconnect and disconnect methods have been identified that could be automated.
Interconnect methods include resistance-welding using microprobes and air-splicing, which is used
successfully in the joining of two yarn ends in automatic yarn winding. Disconnect techniques
include cutting with microcutters and controlling the welding parameters during resistance-welding
to cut and interconnect at the same time.

To automate the formation of interconnects/disconnects, weaving machines with small robotic
devices to manipulate an air splicer, a microcutter and a resistance-welding device, or equivalent
devices, need to be developed. Existing automatic filling repair mechanisms may be modified to
include the interconnect/disconnect devices. Optical sensors may be needed to locate the positions
of interconnects and disconnects. The need for optical sensors could be eliminated by the use of
jacquard weaving, in which every warp and filling yarn location is identified – and, hence, every
crossover point location is known.

p32a
Infineon Technologies AG, Germany, has developed a prototype MP3 player that can be sewn
directly into clothing. The player consists of a chip, a removable battery/data storage card,
flexible keyboard, and includes an earpiece for listening to songs.


Formation Of Electrowoven

Structures At High Speeds

Ongoing research shows that producers of electrowoven structures will have to deal with
different yarns, including traditional textile yarns, conducting metallic or a combination of
polymeric/metallic yarns, battery yarns, solar-cell yarns, and yarns that have built-in electronic
devices. These yarns are expected to be of different physical and mechanical properties. Moreover,
yarns with devices may be in ribbon form, and yarn orientation is necessary. In such cases,
twisting of ribbon yarns must be avoided during weaving.

Recent advances in weaving technology meet some of these challenges. Variable-speed weaving
is an essential requirement for handling different filling yarns. In this case, since electrowoven
structures demand high quality and precise spacing of filling, the machine can run at high speeds
when weaving strong yarns and can be slowed down when weaving weaker yarns to avoid stops and
potential quality problems caused by stops. A filling selection mechanism of up to 12 colors is now
available, which provides the versatility required for electrowoven fabrics.

“Electroweaving” is expected to require modification of existing filling yarn feeders or
development of new filling feeders. It may be necessary to create filling feeders with guiding and
tensioning systems to make them suitable for feeding and maintaining orientation of ribbon yarns.
Needles and devices to introduce such filling yarns to the filling insertion may need to be
modified and/or developed. The newly developed electronic yarns may require development of new
filling feeders because of their differences in properties as compared to traditional yarns.

The same discussion can be made regarding electronic warp yarns. Because their physical and
mechanical properties are expected to be different from traditional warp yarns, differential in
yarn take-up during weaving is expected. This mandates feeding such yarns from a creel or separate
warp beam. A creel that has rotating packages and suitable guiding elements is a must to feed
electronic ribbon warp yarns to avoid yarn twisting and maintain orientation. One scenario may
require setting the traditional warp yarns on the main warp beam and feeding different electronic
yarns from a creel. The creel in this case may require rotating packages and individual automatic
setting of yarn tension. However, this type of creel does not exist today.

p
Logitech Inc., Fremont, Calif., manufactures a soft-touch KeyCase™ keyboard that can wrap
around a personal digital assistant  (PDA) for maximum protection and compact
storage.


Filling Insertion System

For Electrowoven Fabrics

Air-jet and projectile filling insertion systems are obviously suitable for simple
electrowoven fabrics. The rapier filling insertion system seems to be the ultimate candidate for
weaving current and future electrowoven fabrics. However, novel rapier heads that are capable of
handling a broad range of traditional yarns and electronic yarns (especially ribbon yarns) are
required.

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Figure 1: Illustration of a flexible, stitched, multi-layered woven structure


Versatility And Quality

The production of electrowoven fabrics will require short runs and a totally versatile
operation to produce different circuits of varying complexity and to manufacture fabrics with tight
specifications and high quality.

Short runs and versatile weaving operations have been made possible by many developments
that have taken place in recent years. These include quick style change, automatic pattern change
and variable pick density. Weaving machines today are modular, and weavers have full control over
their machines through digital interface. It is now possible to send woven fabric designs from a
CAD system to a weaving machine through a local area network (LAN) or from anywhere in the world
through the Internet.

Electrowoven fabrics must be of high quality and precision. Start-mark prevention mechanisms
and on-line fabric inspection are systems that would help to achieve high quality and precision.
Current start-mark prevention systems however, require operator intervention to set the system for
new styles. This is a challenging task for the operator when dealing with electrotextile fabrics of
short runs and variable pick density. Weaving machine manufacturers will have to create smarter
start-mark prevention systems that do not need operator intervention.

Weaving technologies are versatile and could automatically form complex, sophisticated,
high-quality electrotextiles with tight specifications at high speeds. They could allow weavers to
capture a large share of the present and future electrotextile markets. While there are many recent
weaving advances that are relevant to the production of electrowoven fabrics, there are many
developments that still need to be done.


Editor’s Note: Abdelfattah M. Seyam is a professor in the department of textiles and apparel,
technology and management at North Carolina State University’s (NCSU) College of Textiles, Raleigh,
N.C. He obtained a B.S. and M.S. in textile engineering from Alexandria University, Alexandria,
Egypt, and also holds a Ph.D. in fiber and polymer science from NCSU.

Quality Fabric Of The Month: Easy-Care Luxe

Take some wool for warmth, lighten and soften it by adding a good measure of microfiber acrylic, and make it more durable with a bit of nylon and polyester; blend into sliver and knit, and voilà – you have Casalana, a new low pile fabric developed recently by Glenoit Fabrics (H.G.) Corp. for apparel and accessory applications. The New York City-based knitter is producing the fabric domestically using specialized high-speed computer-driven sliver-knitting machines at its mill in Tarboro, N.C.

p66ap66b

Glenoit Fabrics offers Casalana in a range of solid colors and jacquard patterns and also
according to customer specifications.


Rich Looking But Well-Priced

Fully machine-washable and -dryable, Casalana has the rich look and feel of a high-end boiled wool flannel, but it is very competitively priced when compared with other wool products in the market, according to Joe Zeoli, Glenoit’s national sales manager. “Its applications are numerous,” he said, “but we are looking to place it in products that showcase its richness.” Noting the fabric’s flexibility and styling possibilities due to its knit pile construction, Zeoli mentioned
apparel and accessories as targeted end-uses – from outerwear to middleweight layered fashions – and also potential home fashions applications, such as blankets.

Zeoli said Casalana – having a face-fiber blend of 34-percent wool, 50-percent microfiber acrylic, 11-percent nylon and 5-percent polyester; and a polyester back – is a response to the current strong interest in wool fabrics. The man-made fibers in the blend lend desirable performance attributes of their own. “Glenoit is providing the premiums of each fiber,” he added, noting the fabric is durable and provides good thermal protection, while also exhibiting breathability.

Casalana differs in construction from the traditional pebble-textured sherpa Berber fabric. Zeoli said the low pile construction gears it toward a younger look.Glenoit offers the fabric in a 14-ounce weight in a range of solid colors and jacquard patterns. The company also will work with
its customers to develop patterns according to their specifications. The company is showing Casalana to its customer base and reports it has been very well received. 


For more information about Casalana, contact Joe Zeoli (212) 391-3930, Ext. 8414.


February 2003


US Offers Proposals For Free Trade Area Of The Americas

U.S. Trade Representative Robert B. Zoellick has proposed a bold new initiative designed to jump
start negotiations on a Free Trade Area of the Americas (FTAA) including an offer to eliminate all
US textile and apparel tariffs in five years. Zoellick said removal of textile duties would be
contingent upon other nations doing the same, but that did not satisfy US textile industry
officials and their supporters in Congress.

Rep. John Spratt (D-SC), a key member of the Congressional Textile Caucus, sharply criticized
the proposal, saying removal of tariffs will “open the floodgates to imports.” He said the US has
the largest trade deficit in history and a major portion of it is in textiles and apparel. “This
proposal would deal a stunning blow to the American textile industry and the thousands of Americans
it employs,” Spratt said.

Jock Nash, Milliken & Company’s Washington representative, blasted the proposal, saying
the administration is acting like “a drunken sailor” by giving up all of its leverage even before
negotiations get underway. “Here we are at the beginning of a negotiation and already the
administration is prepared to give up its negotiation leverage on the first day. Everyone knows
that is no way to negotiate,” Nash said.

Although Zoellick said other nations will need to to eliminate their non-tariff barriers to
trade, US textile manufacturers are more concerned about a flood of imports than they are about
market opportunities in what they say are poverty-stricken countries where people are in no
position to buy US textile and apparel imports.

In response to Zoellick’s announcement, the American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI)
said the FTAA must be “fair and beneficial” to US textile manufacturer,s and that it must include a
strict yarn-forward rule of origin without exceptions that benefit non-participating countries.
ATMI also said tariff reductions must be “completely reciprocal” and that non-tariff barriers must
be eliminated.

Zoellick said the textile initiative is in part designed to help offset an anticipated flood
of imports from China once textile and apparel quotas are removed by January 2005. He said a
Western Hemisphere free trade agreement would help the participating countries to be more
competitive and could lead to a “more integrated American market” for textile and apparel imports.

The U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel praised the proposal, saying that
elimination of tariffs encourages competition and results in lower consumer prices.

February 2003

Rieter Launches Rotona®, Updates BT 903 And BT 905

Rieter Spun Yarn Systems, Switzerland, reports its BT 904 Rotona® rotor core yarn system combines
rotor yarn benefits with core yarn possibilities. The system wraps rotor yarn around the core to
provide a stable structure and entails fewer steps than ring-spinning systems. Rotona yarns have
low unevenness and reduced hairiness. They can contain elastic or hard-core filaments. Bobbins
weigh up to 3 kilograms and hold longer running lengths without splices or knots.

Rieter also has added new features to its BT 903 and BT 905 rotor-spinning machines,
increasing their length to up to 320 rotors and rotor speed up to 100,000 revolutions per minute
(rpm). The direct rotor bearings contain Rieter’s exclusive state-of-the-art ball bearings, which
have increased durability and require lubrication less often, according to the company. A new spin
box modification permits use of a new type of rotor in conjunction with an enhanced external
suction device and enables spinning of yarns from high-trash-content materials, as well as
specialty yarns. Independently driven machine sides also are available, allowing flexible
production planning.

The BT 903 features the IQclean® yarn clearer and the electronically controlled AMIspin®
piecing device, which works with Rieter’s Qtop® system to eliminate damaged fibers prior to
piecing. The BT 905 now has the option of four robots per machine to provide maximized performance.

February 2003

Joseph Weinkam Takes INDA Helm

The Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA), Cary, N.C., has named Joseph Weinkam
Jr. to succeed Ted Wirtz as president. Wirtz retired recently after serving seven years as
president of the organization.Weinkam, a former executive with Johnson & Johnson, has worked in
nonwovens, textile and related fields for more than 30 years. Prior to joining INDA, he specialized
in crisis prevention, strategic planning, turnaround planning and financial restructuring at
Baltimore-based Wyndhurst Associates, a management consulting firm.

February 2003

Saurer Expands Suzhou Plant, Focuses Operations

The Saurer Group, Switzerland, has set up a new production facility in Suzhou, China, near
Shanghai. “With [this] factory we want to intensify our production in China, concentrate our
technological presence and thus achieve short distances to customers”, said Heinrich Fischer, CEO,
speaking at the opening ceremony. “Initially,” he added, “the facility will supply machinery and
equipment to the Chinese market, with plans to produce machine sub-assemblies and eventually
complete machines for the global market.”

Saurer also has moved production, sales and service of its covering machines from Hamel AG,
Switzerland, to Volkmann GmbH, Germany, and is concentrating twisting, cabling and covering machine
production at Saurer-Allma GmbH, Germany; Saurer Suzhou; and Volkmann.

February 2003

US Has Plans For More Free Trade Areas

The Bush administration has added Australia, Morocco and five countries in Southern Africa to its
list of proposed free trade agreements. The new proposals, which still must be negotiated and
submitted to Congress, would be in addition to recently announced free trade proposals with Chile,
Singapore and Central America, which are in various stages of negotiation.

Talks with Morocco, at present not a major exporter of textiles and apparel, were initiated
January 21. Currently, Morocco’s leading imports from the US are aircraft, corn and machinery, but
US Trade Representative (USTR) Robert Zoellick said Morocco’s imports of pharmaceuticals and
fabrics recently have increased “significantly.” At present, US products entering Morocco face an
average tariff of over 20 percent, while Moroccan products entering the US are subject to an
average tariff of only 4 percent. Zoellick said the goal of the Moroccan free trade agreement would
be to eliminate tariffs “on the broadest possible basis.”

Meantime, the US and Australia also have initiated talks aimed at reaching a free trade
agreement. Because Australia is a major textile manufacturer and believed by US manufacturers to be
a source for transshipped Chinese goods, the American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI)
immediately announced it will seek a tight rule of origin and tough Customs enforcement,. This
would include a so-called “kick-out” clause that would allow the US to withdraw its tariff
concessions if Australia does not live up to the rule of origin.

In addition, on January 13, the US and five southern African nations agreed to start
negotiations on a free trade zone, in what is known as the Southern African Customs Union (SACU).
The nations involved are Botswana, Lesotho, Namibia, South Africa and Swaziland. Pointing to
assistance and investment opportunities in those areas, Zoellick said Nambia recently received a
multimillion investment in an integrated textile and clothing production complex, and he said
negotiations are underway for two additional factories. This is part of a plan to bolster the
economies of the area and provide growth opportunities; textile manufacturing and trade are
important elements in that effort.

February 2003

Great Lakes Chemical Boosts NDB Production Capacity

Great Lakes Chemical Corp., West Lafayette, Ind., has opened a production and service center in
Arlington, Texas. The new facility doubles the production capacity of Great Lakes no-dust blends
(NDB) line of polymer stabilizers.

“The Arlington facility’s production flexibility and streamlined logistics significantly
expand our ability to service our customers,” said Doug Excell, global business manager, Polymer
Stabilizer Blends. Great Lakes will now offer additional, physical form capabilities on a full
commercial or pilot scale including blending, granulation and extrusion.

February 2003

Tensitron’s TX-125 Measures Tension Of Fine Materials

Tensitron
Inc., Boulder, Colo., reports its TX-125 digital tension meter enables ultra-accurate measurement
of fine materials. The device measures tension on filaments or textiles having a diameter of 0.0001
inch to 0.0060 inch, or on wire measuring 54 to 37 AWG.

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Tension values can be read in grams, centinewtons (cN) or pounds. Resolution is adjustable
down to 0.1 gram, and full-scale accuracy is 1 percent or better for all calibrations that can be
selected in the menu. The TX-125 uses NIMH rechargeable batteries. It is CE-certified, complying
with heavy industrial immunity standards. Features include automatic shut-off, password-protected
calibration values, speed and length measuring, user-adjustable display update and back-lit LCD.
Options include RS-232 for serial interfacing, analog outputs with user-definable ending sequences,
and magnetic or rigidly mounted mounting brackets.

February 2003

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