International Report

By John T. Millington, International News Editor Italy Steps Up HosieryandKnitting Machinery
Programs
Italian hosiery companies are proving their mettle through acquisitions and improving
technology. The continuing growth and heavy investment of the Lonati Group, Italy, has
raised it to one of the highest levels on the playing field. The group recently confirmed that its
annual turnover now exceeds $1 billion and that 40 percent of this is textile
related. Bustling BresciaWhile Florence is Italys second major machine manufacturing base,
many firms are located in Brescia, including smaller family companies that provide specialized
knitting machine services. Lonati sees the importance of Brescia as a focal point for the knitting
and textile industries.Within the last two years, the company has expanded its textile interests by
acquiring circular fabric machine makers Marchisio and Vignoni, together with the Italian firm,
Mec-Mor.Lonati also has a textile/garment success on its hands with Santoni. A large-scale surge of
interest in seamless, comfort underwear and bodywear has seen significant investment by Western
companies, both as a diversification for pantyhose manufacturers and as a new opportunity for
entrepreneurial garment makers.A major incentive is the dramatic reduction in skilled labor since
most or almost all of the manufacturing is carried out on the knitting machine. There is virtually
no restriction on patterning, and a large variety of styles is possible. Huge potential also exists
in using Santoni machines for swimwear, boxer shorts and cycling shorts. Hosiery
CompetitonLonati companies tend to dominate the technologically creative hosiery machine industry
in Florence. Although a wholly owned Lonati company, Matec, along with Matec/Conti at Scondicci,
competes actively in world markets for pantyhose and sock machines with the counterpart company in
Brescia.At hosiery boarding and packaging specialist SRA a greatly extended modern factory has
emerged on the site which previously saw a somewhat ramshackle collection of administrative and
factory buildings. The company is looking to enter into the finishing of underwear/bodywear
items.Matec/Solis has benefited from considerable RandD investment to become a major world
contender in automated pantyhose assembly. The individual toe-closing, U-seaming,
U-seaming/gussetting modules can now be combined in around 7 seconds.Matec, along with Nagata in
Japan, is busy finalizing the pre-production prototypes of the one-piece pantyhose GL machine which
knits complete, seamless pantyhose in 4 to 5 minutes. The prototype machines and first production
models will be installed in Golden Lady factories in Italy. Sangiacomo Success StoryThe
Italian firm Sangiacomo continues to go from success to success. The building block for this drive
to capture a greater share of the world market in sock machines is the Lin-Toe automatic linked
toe-closing device which has already attracted over 1,000 orders and now represents more than 50
percent of Sangiacomos monthly output.After a hesitant start, automatic, hands-free toe closing,
either on or off knitting machine is now seen as the future of single-cylinder sock production. At
present Lin-Toe is well out in front, but challenge in mounting. Matec is entering the coarse-gauge
sports sock market with its Conti Air-Toe. Both Matec and Lonati are developing folding dial
solutions for finer dress-gauge socks. Busi has committed to a Frulini license for Lin-Toe and is
launching its first model in the range. Colosio claims to be near a solution which gives a Lin-Toe
linked-type result but on the knitting machine itself. Rumi is working with random linking machine
specialists Conti Complete to provide a solution to Lin-Toe involving transfer from the knitting
machine to a straight bar sewing head that gives a conventional mock-linked seam. There is little
doubt that Lonati intends to undertake an intensive program of investment with its latest circular
fabric, knitwear garment and flat machine acquisitions.Germany and Japan will no double dispute
this burgeoning world leadership in many aspects of knitting, but there can be no doubt that Italy,
backed by substantial internally generated financial resources is coming along fast in these
textile machinery areas.

May 1999

Springs Moves Into Fabric Lampshade Market

Springs Industries Inc., Fort Mill, S.C., and AM Industries Inc., recently announced a licensing
agreement allowing AM Industries to market and distribute fabric-covered lampshades under the
Wamsutta® and Springmaid® brands.The contract is effective immediately and products are currently
in inventory and ready to ship.AM Industries has done a terrific job positioning themselves as the
premier manufacturer of lampshades to coordinate with our bedding ensembles, said Kevin Carlisle,
Springs vice president of marketing services. They have a well-deserved reputation for excellent
service and innovative display techniques designed to generate rapid sales.Springs recently
licensed its Wamsutta and Springmaid brand names to marketers of jersey knit sheets, kitchen and
table linens and decorative pillows, in keeping with its strategy of expanding its product
offerings through licensing agreements.

May 1999

Market Moves

May 1999

 

 
May 1999

ITMA 39 99 Knitting

In this final series of preview articles on ITMA 99, ATI takes a look what some of the key
machinery manufacturers in the knitting area will show in Paris.A-CAP Knitting Elements Inc., Hall
7/3, Stand B 31, will show flat parts for large diameter circular knitting machines and panty
hose/socks machines.Briggs Shaffner Co., Winston-Salem, N.C., Hall 7/3, Stand C 43, will show
textile beams for fiber production, fabric weaving and warp knitting.Camber International Ltd.,
United Kingdom, Hall 7/2, Stand D 09, will show a range of single and double knit machines.
According to the company, it will show two of its latest machines, a single feed single jersey with
a complete preparation system and a double knit jersey mini jacquard machine. On the Memminger
stand, adjacent to the Camber stand, they will be showing a Quattro four color high speed
electronic stripper.Comez S.p.A., Italy, Hall 8, Stand B 32, will exhibit crochet knitting machines
and ancillary equipment.E-HEAG Eiele Apparate- und Geratebau GmbH, Germany, Hall 7/3, Stand C 45,
will show a conventional linking machine, an assembly system KMF 764/765, and the EAG 1000/1 sewing
unit for the processing of knits with machine pitch range from E5 to E14, and processing of facings
with widths from 20 to 180 mm.Groz-Beckert KG, Germany, will exhibit in Hall 1, Stand H 17a and
Hall 7/2, Stand C 10.Haase + Kuhn S.A., Switzerland, Hall 7/3, Stand A 7, will show knitting
needles and elements for industrial knitting machines.Hugo Kern und Liebers GmbHandCo., Germany,
Hall 7/2, Stand B 22, will exhibit elements and accessories for knitting, including jacks, sinkers
and selectors.L-MLiba Maschinenfabrik GmbH, Germany, Hall 7/2, Stand C 42, will show new types of
tricot machines, Raschel machines and weft insertion machines. The company will also display a
warping unit.Christoph Liebers GmbH, Germany, Hall 7/2, Stand C 20, will show sinkers and other
elements for large diameter knitting machines, including selectors, jacks, and sliders.Harry Lucas,
Germany, Hall 7/2, Stand D 29, will show circular knitting machines, warp knitting machines and
braiders. The company will show its RR2-Z-1-1 2s interlock machine for the production of gusset
material including a cutting device and rolling device for bands.The RME machine for the production
of orthopedic compression hosiery with full electronic control will also be shown. The RD-2s wire
knitting machine with electronic thread control, needle head breakage control and fabric control
will be shown.MayerandCie, Germany, will exhibit in Hall 7/2, Stand C 09.Mayer Industries Inc.,
Hall 7/2, Stand A 10, will show a new prototype development called Fiberknit. This machine is a
high production circular sliver knitting machine for high quality plush fabric in plain and full
Jacquard from all types of fiber. Weight ranges from 180 grams to 750 grams per square meter are
possible. The company will also introduce its latest line of circular sliver knitting machinery,
the SK18II and SK-18JII.Karl Mayer GmbH, Germany, Hall 5, Stand C 08 and Hall 7/2, Stand A 50, will
exhibit the their latest developments in the areas of warp knitting, stitch-bonding, warp
preparation/warp knitting and circular looms. The tricot and raschel machine are for a range of
apparel, home, household, technical and industrial uses.The tricot knitting machines on display
will be the HKS 2-3, the HKS 3-1 and the HKS 4. Among the Raschel machines on display are , the RSE
4-1, the MRPJ 25/1 and the RJPC 4 F-NE.M.C.M Srl, Italy, Hall 7/2, Stand B 15, will show knitting
machines of various sizes and cuts.Mec Mor Srl, Italy, Hall 7/2, Stand A 20, will show its Variatex
4000 circular machine for knitted outerwear (42-inch), integrated systems for knit tuck and miss or
selective transfer and reception.Memminger-Iro GmbH, Germany, Hall 7/2, Stand C 12, will show
several devices and yarn feeders including the MPF positive yarn feeder; the MER elastane roller;
the SFE/SFT storage feeder; the ITF stripper feeder and MJS VCL venti-Cleaner; FN FN-Cleaner;
Pulsonic pressure oiler; LMW fault detector; Decotex; Wesco yarn rate/length meter; LMT
elastane/yarn content analyzer; Cadratex special fabric spreader; its side-creel systems:
Combicreel, Fancreel and Filtercreel 2; EFS electronic yarn feeder; Novaknit storage feeder; and
Elan positive yarn feeder.Monarch Knitting Machinery Corp., Flushing, N.Y., Hall 7/2, Stand C 22,
will have on display eight knitting machines. These include the V-7E00 30×20, V-SECPLT 30×20 (26
Feed True 3 Height Sinker Loop Machine), V-LPJ3B 30×20, V-LEC6 30×28, V-LEC4D 30×20, VX-SEC4Y
30×28, VX-SEC7ME (Mesh) 30×28 and VX-RDSY 30×28. The company will also show machinery at both of
the Memminger stands.O-ROrizio Paolo S.p.A., Italy, Hall 7/2, Stand C 01, will show its model PLE
single knit circular machine and its model MJD/CE double knit circular machine. The PLE is a single
knit machine for the production of jacquard synthetic fur fabrics with needle-by-needle electronic
selection. The model MJD/CE double knit machine has electronic needle-by-needle selection in three
technical ways on the cylinder and swing cams on the dial. It is equipped with an electronic
take-down system.Valentin Rius Clapers SA, Spain, Hall 5, Stand D 22, will special fast knit
braiders, electronic trimming machines, electronic knitting machines, a high speed crochet machine
and a twisted cord machine. Other products to be exhibited include fast knit braiders, bandage
making machines, spooling machines, chainette machine, electronic sectional warper, small size
electronic direct warper, automatic winding machines for sewing machines, automatic cutting machine
for narrow fabrics and cord, and trimming machines.S-TSaxonia-Frenche of America Inc., Spartanburg,
S.C., Hall 7/3, Stand A 48, will show blades for warp knitting. Other products to be exhibited
include blades for circular knitting and weaving.Scomar A.R.M.I. Srl, Italy, Hall 7/3, Stand C 31,
will show an electronic flat knitting machine, Digiuit + ATSU device. Other products to be
exhibited include flat knitting machines model: Digiuit 160, A-80 Export CE, Super Jumo 36 2T, and
BC 36 2T.Stoll GmbHandCo., Germany, Hall 7/3, Stand E 21, will show its entire line of knitting
machines on its over 1,000-square-meter stand. The company will present its new machine in the
compact class, the CMS 330 TC 4. This machines features include an unlimited width of narrowings
for double-sided knits through two permanently-mounted additional beds and high productivity
through three full-quality knitting systems. It is especially suited for producing intarsia
patterns.Terrot Strickmaschinen GmbH, Germany, will exhibit in Hall 7/2, Stand B 30. Tritex
International, United Kingdom, Hall 7/2, Stand D 20a, will show six knitting machines, five of
which are new. The sixth machine has never been shown at an exhibition but has been available for
commercial use for two years. These include the HS950 shaped/striped hockey sock machine; the PS100
pot scourer machine; the CW200 electronic circular warp knit machine; the CD 2 circular knit
braider machine; the Wrp V flat warp knitting machine and the LT101 laboratory sampling
machine.U-VUniwave Inc., Farmingdale, N.Y., Hall 7/2, Stand B 01, will show the Accu-spray knitting
machine lubricator, pulse lubricator, and lint control system. Other products to be exhibited
include a lint blowing Roll-Kleen fan, and a central monitor for production monitoring.Vanguard
Supreme (Monarch Knitting), Hall 7/2, Stand C 22, will exhibit four knitting machine. A four
raceway single jersey machine in three feeds per inch, Model KS/A3R, a terry / velour machine in
1.5 feeds per inch, Model KS/1.5L, a two track rib machine in two feeds per inch, Model 2SR2/v and
a four raceway single jersey machine in four feed per inch, Model 4SJ4/HAC.Vignoni Srl, Italy, Hall
7/2, Stand B 15, will show knitting machines and related equipment. These include: the VENIS-E
60-inch, single jersey large diameter full Jacquard; the VENIS-E 17-inch, body size full Jacquard,
the VENIS-Open 30-inch single-jersey mini-Jacquard open fabric rolling system, the FLORENS-E
30-inch double-jersey full Jacquard and the QUADRO 36-inch double-jersey for rib-based fabric.

May 1999

Liberty Fabrics Acquires Enterprise Coatings

Liberty Fabrics Inc., New York, recently announced that it has purchased substantially all assets,
including the name, of Enterprise Coatings Co. Ltd., North Smithfield, R.I. Liberty is a subsidiary
of Courtaulds Textiles plc.The acquired assets and the related business interests of Enterprise
will operate under a separate division within Liberty and will be known as Enterprise
Coatings.Enterprise manufactures a range of high-quality, breathable and waterproof polyurethane
films that are laminated onto various types of fabrics for use in activewear, sportswear and
outdoor recreation markets.

May 1999

People

PeopleTapistron International, Ringgold, Ga., recently announced the appointment of Bruce Elliston
as executive vice president. He has more than 26 years of experience in the carpet industry,
working with mills, commercial carpet specifiers and end-users.Most recently, Elliston was
responsible for BASFs worldwide Commercial Carpet Yarn business.M. Michael Jones has been promoted
to business director, Carpet Fiber Products for BASF Corp., Dalton, Ga.In his new position, Jones
will direct both the commercial and residential carpet fiber products businesses and have overall
responsibility for sales, marketing, technical services and the Carpet Fiber Technical Center in
Dalton. Jones has been with the company since 1973

.
May 1999

People

Uniqema, Wilmington, Del., a global business comprised of several members of the ICI group,
announced the following new corporate structure for the Specialties Americas region: Peter W.
Johnson is president of Uniqema for the Americas region; J. Jay McAndrews has been named vice
president of marketing; Edward H. Fairchild has been appointed vice president of research and
development; Dennis L. Frost is the new vice president of commercial development, manages new
products, new technology and developmental products, and coordinating new product introductions;
Ron McCoy is the vice president of operations; James C. Miller serves as vice president of Latin
America operations; Richard Thabit serves as vice president of sales; and David Waterman, vice
president of supply chain, is responsible for customer service, purchasing, operations planning and
logistics.

May 1999

Schoeller Textil Receives Editor39 S Choice Award

Schoeller Textil USA Inc., Seattle, recently received the 1999 Editors Choice Award from Backpacker
magazine for its innovative schoeller®-dryskin and schoeller®-dryskin-extreme fabrics.These
fabrics, which provide a durable, weather resistant, lightweight and comfortable woven stretch
fabric for sports enthusiasts, were tested by editors of the magazine over the course of several
months.Being recognized by one of the industrys leading consumer magazines is truly an honor for
Schoeller, said Schoeller Textil USA President Tom Weinbender.

May 1999

U.S. Economy Continues To Grow


The Economy Completes Its Eigth Year Of Expansion And Is Still
Growing

The economy completed its eighth year of expansion in March, and growth continues to be strong.
While most of the latest monthly government reports show a temporary seasonal weakness, overall the
economy was in the fast lane during the first quarter.

Despite a sharp upturn in energy prices, inflation is running below the 2-percent mark and
there are no visible signs for a pickup. This means that the Federal Reserve is likely to leave
short-term rates unchanged in the near future.

Growth in nonfarm jobs rose only 46,000 jobs in March, following an average monthly gain of
276,000 jobs in the previous four months. Construction jobs declined by 47,000 as relatively cold
weather slowed outside activities.

In the first quarter of this year, nonfarm payrolls grew by 560 thousand jobs, and were up
2.2 percent from a year ago.Payrolls for the apparel industry alone are down by 83,000 from a year
ago.

The producer price index for finished goods increased 0.2 percent in March as energy prices
ran up 1.2 percent. Also, consumer prices rose 0.2 percent in March. The core index, which excludes
food and energy, rose just 0.1 percent in March. From a year ago the core inflation was up only 2.1
percent.

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Industrial Production Edges Up; Cool Weather Boosts Utility Use;

Housing Starts Drop

Industrial production edged up 0.1 percent in March, after rising 0.3 percent in February.
Cooler temperatures boosted utility output by 1.9 percent in March. Factory output was unchanged
following a 0.3-percent increase in February. During the first quarter industrial output grew just
0.7 percent at annual rate, the slowest rate since the third quarter of 1998.

With the operating rate down to 80.1 percent from 80.3 percent in February and fierce
competition from abroad, manufacturers will have hard time raising prices.

Housing starts eased 1.3 percent in March to 1.77 million units. Despite the drop, housing
starts were only marginally below the 12-year high of 1.82 million reached in January.

Starts for single-family homes were virtually flat in March, while multi-family units tumbled
5.9 percent to 0.365 million. New home building in the first quarter was the highest since the
second quarter of 1986.

Business sales surged 0.9 percent in February, while business inventories responding to
strong demand grew 0.4 percent.

The inventory-to-sales ratio held steady at 1.37, down from 1.38 a year ago and near its
historic low of 1.36. This means there is no undesirable inventory buildup.


Textile Output Falls After Being Up For Three Straight Months

Results for textiles and apparel were mostly negative. Textile output fell 1.7 percent in March
after rising for three consecutive months before. The operating rate for textiles came down to 80.6
from 82.0 in February.

Sales by textile manufacturers dropped 2.5 percent in February, while inventories fell 0.6
percent. Thus, the ratio of inventories-to-sales climbed to 1.56 from 1.53 in January.

The industry’s payrolls were slashed by 0.5 percent in March, following a sharp 1-percent
drop in February. The jobless rate for textile mill workers declined to 4.3 percent.

Retail sales rose for the eighth month in a row in March. Total retail sales rose 0.2 percent
in March, after surging 1.7 percent in February and 1.3 percent in January.

Retail sales in the first quarter shot up 14.9 percent at an annual rate and were up 8.3
percent from a year ago. While favorable weather was a major factor, the burst in consumer spending
has insulated the U.S. economy from recessions abroad.

Producer prices of textiles and apparel declined 0.2 percent in March for the second month in
a row. Prices surged 0.9 percent for carpets; rebounded 0.8 percent for gray fabrics; recovered one
third of the February drop of 1.8 percent for processed yarns and threads; and rose 0.5 percent for
finished fabrics. Finally, prices declined 0.5 percent for synthetic fibers.

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May 1999

Cone Denim Announces Ring Spun Marketing Campaign

Cone Denim, Greensboro, N.C., recently launched a new marketing campaign aimed at redefining the
way people think about denim.Cone Denim will present its ring-spun denim the worlds strongest and
most luxurious denim in a series of ads using imagery that surpasses the usual five-pocket
jean.Cone Denim is the first manufacturer to take the ring-spun message of strength and versatility
directly to the consumer, said Ken Girouard, creative director of Marketing and Product
Development.Cone Denim is the largest manufacturer of ring-spun denim, which is up to 30-percent
stronger than basic open-end denim.

May 1999

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