JandJ Industries Inc., Dalton, Ga., is committed to independence. According to Jim Jolly,
chairman and CEO: “Our whole focus is on our marketplace and is driven by a desire to meet the
needs of our customers. “We feel that this can best be done by remaining independent. This
independence permits us to be very flexible and quick on our feet as well as allowing us to work
with all of the various distribution systems currently in place.” Jolly feels this flexibility
serves the firm well and helps to deliver the very best in product and service to its customers.
Performance Objectives And LeadershipAnother key component supporting the firms independence is its
participation in training and development of leadership and succession within the company.
Management has continued to place more and more emphasis and commit more resources to training
within all levels of the organization. Along with the training and other resources, JandJs
leadership team shares a mutual vision. The company has set four key objectives for this year:
10-percent growth in volume, increased speed to the marketplace, elimination of barriers between
departments and leadership development. Management still holds the key to success or failure in
business. Whether fate drops an opportunity in your lap or hard work has paid off, it still takes
decision-making skills to continue prospering. JandJ has always had a strong leadership team, but
larger efforts to broaden and strengthen began in March 1999 with the promotion of Jim Bethel to
president and chief operating officer, along with the promotion of Bob Hubbs to vice president of
service and customer relations, and Louis Fordham to vice president of human resources. Those,
along with current officers Fran Brantley, vice president of products and planning; Lee Martin,
vice president of sales; Ray Moss, vice president of manufacturing; and David Jolly, vice president
of marketing and contract services, make up the top leadership team.”I am extremely proud of this
team and am gratified to serve with them,” Jolly said. “Our team represents a tremendous number of
years of experience as well as providing some youth and vitality for balance.” JandJ has also
embarked upon a program that is called Leadership 2000, where a core group of associates are
involved in a comprehensive leadership development program which will last through 2002.
Environmental Issues

“In our business of calling on various specifiers of our product, we are dealing with the
most environmentally conscious group of people anywhere,” Jolly said. “We are continually quizzed
and pressed about our commitment to and role in environmental issues, and we certainly have many
different initiatives underway. “We have dramatically reduced our solid waste streams to the
landfill and are now delivering 16 percent as much solid waste as we did in 1992 when we initiated
this effort.” In recognition of these accomplishments, JandJ received the national Keep America
Beautiful award in 1996. The firm has also substantially reduced its environmental impact by
eliminating the hazardous waste generated from parts washers and by removing methanol from the
adhesive that is sold for glue-down applications.Continuing to work hard on its Buy Recycled
program, JandJ has increased the percentage of recycled items purchased dramatically year by year.
“Our solution-dyed nylon, Encore® SD Ultima®, is manufactured with a minimum recycled content of 15
percent,” Jolly said. “We continue to work with key suppliers to encourage their supply of recycled
content products.”In addition, JandJ is actively involved in the Georgia Pollution Prevention
Partners Program and with all of its fiber suppliers in recycling used carpet, thereby keeping
these products out of the landfill a major accomplishment. Increased VisibilityHistorically known
as the “quiet company” within the industry, JandJ decided there was a need to do a better job of
promoting the company and its products to the public. “We have embarked on a major program during
the past year to increase our advertising activity both with JandJ Commercial and with Invision
Carpet Systems,” Jolly said. “We have also performed a complete redo of our sample portfolios and
product presentations within each division. We are committed to being more involved with the public
relations aspect of our business.”The firm has always had a great public relations image within the
local community. “We have a very active leadership role in many civic, industry and church
organizations, but we have not had equal recognition and appreciation where our products are bought
and used,” Jolly said. “In my opinion, we have made great progress in this area and will continue
to do so.” Products And Marketing

JandJs largest market within both lines is the corporate office market. The firm enjoys an
ideal situation with the two lines in that they are very complementary rather than being in
conflict with each other.Invision is a beautifully styled, exciting, boutique-type product, whereas
JandJ Commercial represents one of the finest values across the board within the industry. Invision
price points begin where the JandJ Commercial price points end. This gives a very broad range,
meets the needs of customers and brings great synergy to people in the marketplace. “We continue to
invest in the machinery that gives us the necessary technology and capability as we continue to
serve a marketplace that demands more and more texture and pattern,” Jolly said. Machinery And
EquipmentTo continue its growth and prosperity as an independent within the carpet industry, it has
been necessary for JandJ to vertically integrate to the maximum extent and become as
self-sufficient as possible. Thus, the firm is involved in all steps of the manufacturing process
from fiber extrusion forward, with the exception of yarn spinning. A major expansion is being
completed in the twisting and heat-setting facility, which supplants any need for a yarn-spinning
plant. JandJ uses Card-Monroe Corp.s (CMC) latest technological achievement YARN-trONICS
(Computerized Yarn Control System). Unlike a typical scroll attachment, the system has rolls which
are accessible and spaced so that hands fit between, and the operator can thread in seconds. For a
typical 96-roll scroll, the YARN-trONICS has 672 fewer primary wear points than existing scroll
attachments. Controlled entirely by electronics, the system uses a programmed floppy disk for
transfer of pattern information to the computer. In fact, the system is user friendly for the
operator, mechanic, designer and management. A Bright FutureAs a leader in the industry, JandJ
provides customer-driven performance improvement solutions through quality consultation, products
and services. When the downstream distribution began three and a half years ago, a tremendous
amount of uncertainty existed with everyone. Specifiers and designers were caught in the middle
with making recommendations. But things always have a way of working out, and interestingly enough,
JandJs business during the past three years has been the best in its 43-year history. “We have been
fortunate to have been profitable in each of our 43 years, but the last three have been our
strongest by far,” said Jolly. “I dont know whether these distribution alignments by others have
helped our business, but they certainly havent hurt us.” This firm is one that generates profits
and cash flow, eliminates items that do not help the bottom line and diversifies only within the
companys core competencies. With a top-notch management team, proper training for key employees,
vertical integration, the right products and the ability to match customer demand with planned
production and inventories, the future does indeed look bright for JandJ.

June 2000

In recognition of the importance of the North American textile market, Schlafhorst Inc. (SI)
recently held an open house to promote the use of a new working showroom, located in Charlotte,
N.C., for its present and potential customers. This facility is equipped with the latest technical
and technological innovations that Schlafhorst and Zinser, both members of the Swiss Saurer Textile
Group, have to offer. It is available to customers every working day of the year and allows the use
of the equipment in a hands-on working environment to meet all customer needs. The showroom
features the latest machine generations of Schlafhorst and Zinser. For example, it displays in full
working order the SE 11 spinbox on the Autocoro for open-end spinning, and the Autoconer 338 V for
automatic winding in a linked execution to the ring-spinning machine.Examples of the Zinser
products are the Model 670 roving frame with the new RO-WE-CLEAN, an integrated bobbin changer and
bobbin stripper for the automated roving bobbin transport systems, linked to a Model 350
ring-spinning machine. These products provide the basis for completing spinning and winding trials
across the wide spectrum of textile applications, as often requested by SI customers.Heinz
Bachmann, presidentandCEO of Saurer Textile Group, promoted “closer to the customers” as a global
goal for Saurer. Aided by representatives and sales branches in all textile centers of the world,
Schlafhorst, Zinser and the other members of the group are dedicated to realizing that goal in the
most effective way. Bachmann emphasized that Saurers Textile Division represents market leadership
in automatic rotor spinning, automatic winding, automated ring spinning, and roving machines. The
recent merger and integration of Barmag into the Saurer Group incorporates another leader, namely a
well-recognized machinery manufacturer into the textile filament sector.As a member of this global
network, Schlafhorst Inc., based in Charlotte, N.C., has the task to provide important information,
sales and service support throughout North America. The company is currently working closely with
its affiliate Schlafhorst de Mexico and the worldwide Saurer organization, with specific focus on
the emerging Mexican market.

June 2000

DuPont and Akra-Teijin S.A. de C.V., recently discontinued talks on a joint venture to make and
sell polyester filament yarn in the Americas.Akra-Teijin is the subsidiary company of Alpek S.A. de
C.V., which is part of the Alfa Group, and Teijin.The companies signed a letter of intent in April
1999 to combine their polyester filament operations in the Americas in a 50/50 joint venture. (See
“News,” ATI, May 1999.)According to the companies, depressed market conditions throughout 1999 and
the complexity of the U.S. market made it difficult to gain alignment on future direction.

June 2000

The first three respondents to the Yarn Market this month set an optimistic tone which hasn’t been
heard from cotton spinners in months. “A11 markets are busy. We are running full – seven days.”
This from an open-end spinner.

3 The second spinner commented: “Our markets are great for both open-end and ring-spun
yarns. We are on a full seven-day schedule and can’t meet the demand.”

The third yarn man, speaking of his markets, said: “They are tight across the board.
Ring-spun carded-cotton yarns are especially tight, but ring-spun combed is almost as strong.”

All three mentioned that their customers were optimistic as well. So optimistic in fact that
spinners are beginning to make projections of superior markets for several months ahead. In the
recent past, most spinners would tell you that they couldn’t predict what would happen tomorrow or
next week, let alone several months ahead. Here again, all three commented that they were sold up.

When a spinner was asked what caused the upsurge in business, particularly in open-end
markets, no one had a clue. In fact, one asked to be advised if an answer was forthcoming from any
source.

Pricing Woes

In spite of the improvement in sales, there is no joy in pricing. A spinner observed that
while they couldn’t make enough yarn to meet the current demand, prices weren’t following.

One spinner said: “Pricing has improved slightly. We were able to pass on the increase in
polyester prices, but you can’t make any bold moves.”

Another spinner said: “We are nothing but a conduit for cotton.” He was referring to the
fact that spinners were paying more than 55 cents a pound for cotton and expected to sell yarn for
30 cents more, leaving little or no margin for profit.

Interest in open-end yarns of poly/cotton have surged. Carded ring-spun yarn for the denim
trade is, according to one yarn man, bigger than ever, and the demand for open-end yarns for this
same market is on the rebound. Markets for air-jet yarns are tight as well. The only market
currently in doubt is fleece. One respondent said that initial reports from their biggest customers
indicate that a turn-around will happen soon and probably last through the summer.

The subject of exports comes up nearly every month, and this month was no exception. There
was, however, a different take on the subject by one spinner, who said: “We can export open-end
yarn now because we are competitive, but who would want to? With the domestic markets so good, why
export? Besides, I have always heard said that anything we export will come back to haunt us.”

Synthetic Shares Better

Spinners of man-made fibers have also seen an improvement in their markets. The mills are
running full – some running extra shifts. A synthetic spinner said: “The increase in acrylic fiber
prices has given us an opportunity to increase yarn prices. We book everything with a fiber clause,
but the big boys still want to deal. Smaller operators accept our pricing pretty well. As far as
the hosiery trade is concerned, there is very little left for acrylics. It has all moved to cotton
unless it is something special, like antibacterial.”

South Of The Border

On a recent visit to Mexico, one respondent mentioned that businessmen were complaining about
cheap garments and cheap goods coming in from China and the scarcity of trained labor. They
complained about the fact that once they trained an employee, the person would go to the United
States, send half of his pay back to Mexico, work two years and return to Mexico where he would be
rehired.

Many spinners wonder aloud why, with so many mergers and take-overs, we never see much of a
reduction in total pounds produced. They wonder as well why some marginal operations don’t go out
of business. One opinion expressed to the Yarn Market was that some mills can’t afford to go out of
business. They simply owe too much money.

In addition, the banks are afraid to get out because they are owed too much money. Now there
is something to think about.

While the conventional textile industry continues to place analog restrictions on digital
printing, a growing number of graphic artists, fine artists, interior designers, custom clothiers,
photographers and sign makers dont see the restrictions, but instead see the new market
opportunities. For these people, the only limits on digital printing technology are their
imaginations.The conventional textile industry has slowly been reaping the rewards of digital
printing for sampling and presentation, which provides both a tremendous cost savings and reduction
in time to market. The industry has been resistant to look at digital printing for production, as
most of the industry has a mass production business model that cant support the slower speeds and
higher costs of digital printing. The post-processing requirements for steaming and washing of
digitally printed fabrics have also created a barrier to entry, as have fear and lack of experience
with the technology.As the textile industry tries to ascertain the future of this emerging
technology, a growing number of creative entrepreneurs are discovering and developing entirely new
products and markets to which they can sell short-run customized products. There are the movie
studios that need printed fabric for duplicate garments and backdrops, the entertainment industry
with its insatiable need for unique costumes, the sports apparel markets need for custom team
uniforms, the artists who see clothes as a new canvas for their work and interior designers who can
express themselves on upholstery as well as wall, floor and window coverings.While the flag and
banner business has been deploying this technology for a number of years, this market is still in
its infancy. The ad specialty business is another market well poised to exploit the
opportunities.As these market demands bring about a convergence of graphic arts, printing and
textile industries, there is a growing number of companies satisfying the growing demand for
fabrics that are custom treated for use on ink-jet printers. Ink-Jet PrintingThe new
generation of ink-jet printers can accommodate virtually any fabric that doesnt leave lint that
might clog the print heads. However, getting the fabric to feed through the printer; getting the
ink to stay on the fabric; getting the colors to pop; and getting the finished product to withstand
washing, sunlight, and for some applications, pollutants, acid rain, intense heat and other
environmental pressures, has become a science created from the marriage of technology, art and
chemistry. This science has created new products and market opportunities for several ink-jet
fabric companies.There are two primary methods used for stabilizing and feeding fabric through an
ink-jet printer. One is a paper backing, and the other is a feed and take-up system. While many of
the OEMs have developed feed and take-up systems that eliminate the need for backing on rolled
goods, experts advise users to work closely with their equipment supplier and to test all fabrics
to be used for either sampling or production.Most fabrics used in ink-jet printing will require a
pre-treated coating in order to prevent the ink colors from bleeding on the fabric.While some
natural fiber fabrics do not require pre-treating, the colors produced on non-treated fabrics will
end up very faded. The only way to obtain vibrant colors is by pre-coating the fabric, and for many
applications it will also require a post-process step of steaming and washing of the fabric after
printing. Ink ChemistryOne of the greatest challenges for this new market has proven to be
that of ink chemistry. The wide-format ink-jet printing vendors, which are now looking to expand
into the textile industry, have been using pigmented process color inks for output to paper. The
textile market wants to use its conventional spot color inks, which include reactive, acid and
dispersed dyes.While several ink companies are developing and delivering inks for the textile
market, the chemistry requires the finished fabric printed with reactive, acid and dispersed dyes
to be steamed and washed if it is to be applied to an end use other than presentation, sampling or
signage. Steaming will fix and enhance the color, and the post-washing will get rid of excess ink
that can adversely affect the finished hand.DuPont claims that its pigmented inks only require
heat-setting for production use on textiles.The ink chemistry issue is magnified when combined with
the various chemical compositions of the different fabric coatings from the growing number of
ink-jet fabric vendors. Each of the vendors we spoke to has its own unique formula for defining
what inks will and wont work, as well as its own methods for finishing and testing printed textiles
for commercial use.Lee Newsom, a 10-year veteran of Colorspan and a partner in Jet Effects Inkjet
Textiles, feels that the time has come for the American Association of Textile Chemists and
Colorists (AATCC) to establish testing standards for the emerging ink-jet textile market. The
Ink-Jet MarketplaceMany of the printing equipment vendors have developed strategic partnerships
with ink-jet fabric suppliers with whom they have conducted a wealth of research on the chemistry
mixes of fabric, coating, inks and washing. While end users will save a tremendous amount of time
and money in working with these proven formulas, they should be aware that there are a growing
number of new fabric options on the market.Los Angeles-based DigiFab was one of the first companies
to offer ink-jet textile fabrics to the market. The companys patented coating process has been
applied to its stock line of sheeting, twill, rayon challis, silk, polyester crepe, cotton jersey,
1X1 rib, cotton Lycra® and interlock, which is put up in bolts of 10 or 25 yards. All fabrics are
available with or without paper backing. DigiFab also offers custom coating for companies that
prefer to use their own fabric or want to coat fabrics DigiFab does not stock such as voile,
velour, corduroy and sheers.DigiFab Systems, the companys newly formed software division, offers
software products and services to support the textile design process for companies developing
prints for both rotary screen and digital printing. They also offer support to Foresight® Design
software and provide custom software development specializing in custom drivers for ink-jet
printers.3P InkJet Textiles, Germany, has been marketing its line of coated fabrics for more than
two years. In addition to a large selection of interior/fashion textiles including cottons, wool
and silk, the company also features a line of flame-retardant textiles for which it is working on
global certification.As owner Thomas Potz points out, when using textiles for printing flags or
banners, it is important that they be fire retardant not just in the country of origin, but in any
country where the finished product will be shipped. 3P claims its flame-retardant textiles require
no special textile inks.While 3P does not offer custom coating, it does offer a licensing contract
under which it will ship coating to mills to allow them to do their own coating. They also offer an
office-size fabric steamer that will hold up to 23 yards of 62-inch-wide fabric. Complete
SolutionsJacquard Inkjet Fabrics, Healdsburg, Calif., is a division of Rupert, Gibbon and Spider, a
company with more than 18 years of experience supplying the fine arts industry. The company
manufactures its own inks and coatings and offers a complete solution from design through
production for ink-jet-printed textiles through alliances with mills, software vendors and printer
manufacturers and the development of a short-run steamer that holds up to 50 yards of 60-inch
goods.We dont just offer solutions, we offer know-how. We have been training people for 18 years on
how to color fabric, said Mark Trimble, principle, Jacquard.Jacquard has leveraged this experience
to create several consumer products that demonstrate a few of the many new market opportunities.
Kits offered by Jacquard feature everything including fabric, solution and instructions that allow
the home craftsperson with an ink-jet printer to create doll pin kits, ties and handkerchiefs, silk
scarves and quilts.While early commercial adopters of Jacquard Inkjets systems have been in the
flag and banner markets, the company is expanding its focus to high-end goods where traditional
dyestuffs will apply. It offers 75 fabrics including silk, cotton, wool, linen, rayon and nylon and
knits. All stock fabrics are available with and with-out paper backing. Custom coating with a
50-linear-foot minimum is also available. Jacquard is the only company selling its goods by the
square foot, a convention derived from the digital printing market.  From Diapering To
DyeingKimberly Clark Printing Technology, Roswell, Ga., is a division of the Kimberly-Clark Corp.,
best known for consumer products such as Kleenex and Huggies. The company leveraged its surface
science technologies in 1998 with the acquisition of FormuLabs, a company with experience in ink
technology. The new business unit is focused on developing solutions for digital printing
applications, one of which is textiles.Its initial product launch included fabrics and inks for
textile design sample printing, as well as its EPIC brand products for signs and banners. Product
Manager Laura Cochran has been working closely with the mills to source a broad range of fabrics
with consistent white point throughout the line.Design products are formulated for color and hand,
while the companys sign and banner products are focused on durability. The base fabric line for use
in sampling includes cotton, silk charmeuse, crepe-de-chine, polyester georgette, polyester chiffon
and nylon Lycra. The company will soon be launching the second generation of fabrics, designed to
work with reactive and acid-dye inks. These production-quality fabrics will need steaming and
washing. All fabrics are paper-backed. The company offers custom coating.In addition to its
full-width fabrics, the company is offering a line of desktop fabrics designed to be used on the
Epson 3000 desktop ink-jet printer. The fabric is put up in 16 1/2-inch widths by 3 yards and is
designed for the production of fabric swatches. In addition to the fabrics, the company offers
several ink sets for the Epson 3000 printer. This is an easy-to-use and compact solution that can
fit in any design studio, Cochran said. Lab To ProductionJet Effects, Las Vegas, is the most
recent entry into this emerging consumables market. Owner Lori Dvir-Djerassi operated a fine arts
gallery for 15 years in the lobby of the Anaheim Hilton Hotel, where she found an increasing number
of clients wanting to reproduce art on garments.The Jet Effects coating process and results are
patent pending. Dvir-Djerassi expects the patent to be issued sometime this fall. Jet Effects has
worked for three years to get the process from the lab to production. The company has just
completed its first full-scale production runs. Jet Effects claims its coatings will accept any
type of dyes or pigments including reactive, acid and even direct dyes. Its printed textiles
require no steaming, and target customers are doing production applications, not strike-offs or
sampling.Jet Effects commercial line of fabrics includes lightweight cottons, heavyweight cottons,
twills, canvas, silk, crepe, denim, rayon, basic knits, velvets and cotton/poly blends. Custom
coating is available on pfp (prepared for printing) goods with a one-bolt minimum. While the
company does offer its textiles with paper backing, Dvir-Djerassi claims to have developed a
manual-feed technique that can be used with nearly any printer, and will feed the fabric without
either a backing or a feed and take-up system. The FutureAll of these textile pioneers are
betting their businesses on the future growth of ink-jet printing for a variety of different
markets and applications. A good indication of the markets potential can be found in the
wide-format printing industry, a market that didnt exist prior to 1994.According to I.T.
Strategies, the estimated retail output for wide-format printing in 1999 was $16.2 billion, with
2000 output estimated to be $21.3 billion. Early adopters, much like the textile industry,
complained that the technology was too expensive and too slow.Just as the paper web press industry
lost a portion of its market to this new digital printing market, so too will the analog textile
printing industry. As the cost of the ink-jet printers falls, more and more of the market will
shift from analog to digital printing. Projections on how much fabric will be digitally printed
range between 12 to 15 percent and 50 percent in 10 years. It is estimated that the market will
shift from 50 major textile printers to 500 smaller ones, many offering short-run customized
solutions to satisfy more sophisticated customer demands.These short-run printers will create new
products and new markets. Potz envisions fabric stores that carry only white goods printed on
demand. He sees this as an excellent solution to seasonal/holiday merchandise, which will no longer
need to be stocked or marked down after the holidays. Potz also sees seamstresses, tailors and
custom clothiers offering their services with printing capabilities in alliance with traditional
retailers. And he sees service bureaus with printers, steamers, washing machines and irons as
playing an expanded role in the market.Trimble envisions mom-and-pop operations approaching local
niche markets, supplying costumes for their kids dance groups and local teams. He also sees the
service bureau operation, specializing in 100- to 500-yard lots, as playing an expanding role in
this emerging market.Service bureaus will work with interior design and decorating studios. Trimble
claims a third tier will offer the complete solution to include cutting and sewing finished goods.
With early adopters all in agreement that sewing the finished product is the greatest challenge,
many see this as a market opportunity and resurgence for the seamstress, tailor and home sewer.The
bottom line is that while the technology isnt perfect, technology limitations are no excuse to
avoid the future. The markets will develop and the limitations will be overcome. Early adopters
will be the big winners. The question is who will these early adopters be, and how much of the
emerging market share will the textile industry give up before it wakes up to the opportunity Editors Note: Teri Ross is a writer, speaker and consultant focusing on CAD/CAM technology and
process improvement strategies for the sewn products industries.She is owner and president of
Imagine That! Consulting Group, publishers of the award-winning techexchange.com. She can be
reached at tross@techexchange.com or at (952) 593-0776.

June 2000