Globalization – A Win-Win Possibility?


M
any big thinkers throughout history have shaped ideas that form the foundation of
globalization. The bottom line for many steeped in economics is that unimpaired global free trade
will create an absolute economic nirvana. For them, international trade means international peace.
Through global specialization, total costs are lower around the world, and global economic
efficiencies are maximized. By ridding the world of tariffs and quotas, the free market’s invisible
hand will determine how much and where corn, sugar, cotton and wheat should be grown; where to
build airplanes and autos; and where medical tests will be evaluated.

Global standards of living will be equalized at a higher level than is found in today’s most
impoverished sections of the globe, and the highest will be lowered — but think: greater global
good. Rising standards of living will increase consumerism, which leads to the free flow of ideas,
which will grease the skids of free thought, which ultimately will lead to democracy.

The interconnectedness of the global economic framework will make it impenetrable to
nationalistic fanaticism because there will be no way to be an economic island in a global economy.

So, why cry foul?

Opinions vary, but one of the most straightforward is that while global growth continues and
gross domestic products rise, everything will be fine aside from the readjustments that occur
around the globe regarding entire employment and asset sectors — like textiles. Don’t worry, lower
labor rates for the displaced will be offset by lower-cost consumer goods as those workers do their
part for the greater global good.

The downside comes with the first hiccups that chill global growth. An oil, health or
political crisis — or any unexpected interruption to the underlying linkages at the foundation of
the global economy — could set off an economic storm the likes of which we have never seen.

As the supposed benefits of globalization raise the total economic benefit, the cost and risk
move beyond anything one nation has ever tried to control. Nation-based economic tools will become
obsolete, and the demand for greater economic safety nets comes at a time of reductions for many
such plans.

On a larger scale, can countries really suspend their national self-interest for the right to
become part of the integrated global economic fabric? Think of China’s announced 15-percent
increase in defense spending this year after rising 13 percent last year — or the US activities in
the Middle East or the knowns and unknowns throughout the Middle East.

Industries like textiles, autos, steel, agriculture and energy will all face the question of
being essential to an economic superpower. Retaining them through market management, such as tariff
and government programs, flies in the face of global free trade. National security, economic
sovereignty and the hunger for transnational corporate growth will continue to test the
eventualities of globalization and the realization that truly global free trade has some unintended
consequences. In the meantime, practice those old-time hiccup cures — they might be necessary
sooner than economists think.


May/June 2006

Collins & Aikman To Quit Automotive Fabrics Business

Troy, Mich.-based automotive systems
and cockpit modules supplier Collins & Aikman Corp. announced it will exit the automotive
fabrics business, pending approval by the US Bankruptcy Court. The action will impact approximately
1,200 employees in three fabric manufacturing plants in Roxboro, N.C., one in Farmville, N.C., and
a laminating plant in El Paso, Texas. It will be implemented over a transitional period depending
on when the business can be transferred to other suppliers.

The company is seeking a buyer for the El Paso operation, but it has abandoned efforts to
sell the rest of the fabrics business, according to David A. Youngman, vice president,
communications. He said the business has been unprofitable, and a turnaround is not projected.

“Despite an aggressive cost-cutting program, the business is projected to continue to be
unprofitable,” Youngman said, noting the company has invested heavily in technologies to produce
fabric styles, such as velour, that no longer are popular with consumers. In addition, he said, “
Sales have dropped from more than $300 million in 2004 to a projected $150 million in 2006, and we
have an extensive amount of excess capacity.”

Other factors in the business’s misfortunes include escalating raw material prices and the
transfer of manufacturing offshore, according to Gerald Jones, executive vice president, Fabrics.

The company’s automotive carpets business remains profitable, and is not included in the
decision, Youngman said.

“Our other automotive operations still offer value-added products. For example, there are
three automotive carpet plants in North Carolina and others elsewhere. That is one of our core
competencies, along with injection-molded panels and other products,” he said.

Collins & Aikman filed voluntary petitions to reorganize under Chapter 11 bankruptcy
protection in May 2005. The company plans to complete the shutdown of its Fabrics business before
the end of September 2006, when it expects to emerge from bankruptcy. Youngman said the company
could emerge as a stand-alone company, or it could be sold. Among those parties who have expressed
interest in the company, he said, is New York City-based financier and chairman of the Greensboro,
N.C.-based International Textile Group, Wilbur L. Ross Jr., whose recently formed International
Automotive Components Group has acquired Collins & Aikman’s European businesses.


May/June 2006

Wellman To Up Polyester Staple Price

Wellman Inc., a Fort Mill, S.C.-based polyester product manufacturer, reports it will increase
the price of all polyester staple fiber by 3 cents per pound, effective June 4, 2006. The rising
costs of petrochemical-based raw materials led to the price increase, according to the company.

May 1, 2006

Ciba Develops MagiCarpet Jet-Printing System

Switzerland-based Ciba Specialty
Chemicals Inc. has introduced MagiCarpet, a carpet jet-printing system that includes dyes and
chemicals for all fiber types, and Ciba® Alcoprint® CT-DP thickener. Endorsed by Austria-based J.
Zimmer Maschinenbau GmbH, MagiCarpet was specially designed for Zimmer’s ChromoJet® printers. The
system is suitable for all finished carpet products including carpet tiles, rugs, mats and
wall-to-wall carpets. According to Ciba, Alcoprint CT-DP thickener allows brilliant shades and
maximizes fixation even at low pHs.


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Ciba has introduced MagiCarpet, a jet-printing system for carpets, for use with Zimmer’s
Chromojet™ printer.



“[The system] allows carpet printers to make the most of all the advantages of jet printing,
including high flexibility in terms of fiber materials, production runs, design and end product,”
said Peter Otto, global head of Textile Effects marketing, Ciba.


May/June 2006

VDMA Releases 2005 Textile Machinery Export Figures

 The Textile Machinery Association of the German Engineering Federation (VDMA), Frankfurt,
reported the country’s textile machinery manufacturers exported machinery and accessories totaling
3.4 billion euros in 2005. Overall, exports declined by 5.3 percent for the year, but there were
significant increases in several markets, and the country remains the leading supplier globally of
textile machinery and accessories, according to VDMA.

Although Asia accounted for 46 percent or 1.6 billion euros of Germany’s textile machinery
exports, those exports declined by 7.6 percent. While exports to China were down by 27 percent,
that country remained the largest buyer of German machinery, with purchases totaling 742 million
euros and comprising 22 percent of Germany’s total exports. Exports to India, Iran and Pakistan all
rose considerably. India spent 232 million euros on German machinery, a 62.9-percent year-on-year
increase overall and up by 124.1 percent, 56.2 percent and 52.1 percent, respectively, for
spinning, weaving and finishing machinery. Iranian purchases totaled 89 million euros, up by 42.4
percent. Pakistani purchases grew by 31.1 percent, with specific increases of 98.3 percent and 42.7
percent, respectively, for finishing and spinning equipment.

Textile machinery exports to the Americas grew significantly to 587 million euros, accounting
for 17.2 percent of the total. Shipments to North America grew by 25.5 percent, with US purchases
up by 22.7 percent to 315 million euros. That figure represented 9.2 percent of total German
exports, the second-highest after Chinese purchases and the highest US total since 2001. In
particular, deliveries rose by 84 percent and 42.5 percent, respectively, for spinning and
finishing machinery. Exports to South America rose by 53.7 percent, and within that continent,
Brazil increased its purchases by 79.3 percent to 127 million euros.

Closer to home, Germany’s textile machinery shipments declined by 7.9 percent to countries
within the European Union and by 17.3 percent to the rest of Europe including Turkey, with a total
turnover of 1.1 billion euros or 33.3 percent of total exports. Turkish purchases accounted for 9
percent the third-largest portion by country of the total.

May/June 2006

Heimbach Orders Fehrer Needleloom

Heimbach GmbH & Co. KG, a
Germany-based manufacturer of papermaker felt, has ordered a NL19 needleloom with a working width
of 14.5 meters from Austria-based Fehrer GmbH, now part of Saurer GmbH & Co. KG’s Neumag
business unit, also based in Germany.

NL19 technology features precision felt splice positioning, a unique lighting system,
reduced downtimes and a fully automatic needle-board changing system that enables board changing in
10 minutes, according to Fehrer.


May/June 2006

Administration Pursues FTAs


T
he Bush administration’s highly touted “ top-to-bottom review” of its trade policies with
China has created considerable interest among textile manufacturers and importers, and they are
closely watching how the rhetoric will be translated into action. In the report, the administration
used some of its strongest language in discussing trade with China, saying the United States’
bilateral trade relationship with China “ lacks equity, durability and balance.” The report,
entitled “US Trade Relations: Entering a New Phase of Greater Enforcement and Accountability,” says
“the time has come to readjust our trade policy with respect to China.”

The report calls for expanding the US Trade Representative’s (USTR’s) ability to monitor
Chinese trade and determine whether China is living up to its obligations under the rules of
international trade. In order to do that, the USTR will create a China Enforcement Task Force
headed by a chief counsel for China trade enforcement. It also will add personnel to its Beijing
office in order to expand its information-gathering, enforcement and negotiating capabilities. The
USTR will deal with protection of intellectual property rights as well as such issues as market
access, subsidies and structural problems like currency manipulation that have been bones of
contention with companies and industries doing business with China. The report also promises to
strengthen the executive-congressional partnership on China trade and provide congressional members
and staff with regular briefings about the administration’s China trade policy.

In a letter forwarding the report to key members of Congress, USTR Rob Portman said: “We are
entering a new phase in our bilateral trade relationship, and we must readjust our trade priorities
and resources accordingly. China as a mature trading partner should be held accountable for its
actions and required to live up to its responsibilities.”

While welcoming the report and its high-sounding rhetoric, textile lobbyists in Washington
are concerned about what it all actually means in terms of concrete results. Lloyd Wood of the
American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition said the report does not have a “roadmap for actions”
for the US government to correct what he sees as major problems. He said the only time anything
meaningful on Chinese textile trade has come about was a result of actions such as the safeguards
that resulted in an agreement to impose quotas on 34 categories of textiles and apparel. He added
that China understands the stick better than the carrot, and there is “too much carrot and not
enough stick in our trade relations with China.”

At a news conference discussing the report, Portman cited the textile safeguards-related
agreement as an example of a “good, tough, but balanced agreement.” NCTO’s Cass Johnson voiced his
concern over rhetoric versus action by saying the language was harsher than ever before, but no
punitive actions were mentioned. He added he hopes the report sets the tone for “more aggressive
action.”

The nation’s retailers —the largest importers of textiles and apparel — see some positive
aspects of the report and nothing that appears to raise any red flags. One concern, as with textile
manufacturers, is how the report will be used as a basis for taking action. Eric Autor, the
Washington-based National Retail Federation’s international trade expert, sees it as a “fairly
objective report” that addresses the benefits of trade with China, as well as some of the problems.
He says retailers agree China should live up to its international obligations, and stronger
enforcement of US and international trade laws is called for where that is not happening. However,
he added, actions should not be taken unless they are appropriate and address real solutions to
problems.


Senators Delay Legislation On Chinese Currency

Steam appears to be running out of
the congressional effort to slap punitive tariffs on Chinese imports to help offset what many see
as an unfair trade practice resulting from China’s currency manipulation. Sens. Lindsey Graham,
R-S.C., and Charles Schumer, D-N.Y., have introduced legislation that would impose a 27.5-percent
duty on Chinese imports, and they originally set a deadline of March 31 to pursue the legislation
if China did not correct its currency imbalance. Following a trip to Beijing in March, the senators
agreed to postpone action on the legislation until September 29 to give China more time to act on
the currency issue. They said discussions during the visit indicated China may make some moves to
correct the problem.

Last July, the Bank of China announced a 2-percent adjustment in the currency rate, in a
move that was quickly denounced by US manufacturers as “woefully inadequate.” They contend the
currency manipulation amounts to as much as a 40-percent subsidy on China’s imports entering the
United States. Upon his return from Beijing, Graham said currency revaluations made since the
introduction of his legislation are steps in the right direction, and he does not believe they
represent total reform. “My message to the Chinese was the status quo is devastating to American
manufacturers, and they need to embrace reform over time, allowing their currency to float,” he
said. “The small progress we have seen needs to continue. I’m willing to abandon the need for
tariffs if the Chinese embark on real reform, and we are not there yet.”

While the Schumer-Graham bill received 67 votes on a procedural vote last April, it has
generally been viewed simply as a threat to get some action out of the Chinese, as it does not have
a realistic chance of being enacted. The Bush administration is flatly against it, and it very
likely would be illegal under rules of the World Trade Organization (WTO). Meanwhile, the
Washington-based China Currency Coalition — an alliance of industry, agriculture and labor
organizations including textile manufacturers — is pursuing the issue on several fronts. While
continuing to support the Schumer-Graham actions, it sees legislation in the House of
Representatives as a more practical approach to solving the problem. H.R. 1498, introduced by Reps.
Tim Ryan, D-Ohio, and Duncan Hunter, R-Calif., would define currency manipulation as an illegal
trade practice and would allow the United States to levy countervailing duties on products from
offending nations, particularly China. Up to this point, the Department of Commerce had held that
it could not initiate investigations against nonmarket economies — something that has been a source
of great frustration for US textile manufacturers.


Trade Liberalization Negotiations Are In Trouble

Everyone knew it was not going to be easy. These things never are. Big countries line up against
the small ones. Politically powerful farmers want to protect their interests, labor unions are
concerned about job losses and seek to improve working conditions in less developed countries, and
battle lines are drawn between free traders and protectionists. How you get 145 countries big and
small with diverse interests to agree on anything is a tremendous job.

Today, that is the case with the Doha Round of WTO trade liberalization negotiations, and
some people are saying the talks not only are in trouble, they could fail. The powerful chairman of
the House of Representatives Ways and Means Committee recently said “irreconcilable differences”
between the United States and Europe have scuttled the talks. Other trade authorities in Washington
admit the talks are in trouble, but they are not prepared to say they are dead.

For US textile manufacturers and importers of textiles and apparel, the demise of the talks
would be a major problem.

In order to jump-start the negotiations, outgoing USTR Rob Portman has stated the United
States is prepared to take new initiatives and “move aggressively” on tariff reductions. Importers
of textiles and apparel strongly support tariff reductions, as they believe a duty-free, quota-free
world would provide them with greater flexibility in sourcing products at the best prices and in
the time frames needed. While US textile manufacturers have been wary of tariff reductions, at this
point they seem to be willing to take their chances if they can get what they see as a much bigger
prize — a permanent safeguard mechanism that would allow quotas to be imposed on products for which
it can be demonstrated there is market disruption or a threat of market disruption.

The departure of Portman as USTR has further complicated the picture. He has received high
marks both at home and abroad. He had developed sound relationships with his counterparts
throughout, and he had a good working relationship with members of Congress.

His successor and former deputy, Susan C. Schwab, has considerable experience in dealing with
world trade issues, but it remains to be seen how well she can fill Portman’s shoes.

Looking at all of the tough issues that need to be resolved and the uncertain road ahead,
Eric Autor, the Washington-based National Retail Federation’s international trade expert, warned, “
[I]f there is no [Doha] Round, no one gets what they want.”


May/June 2006

Strandberg Launches Pick & Course Counter

Greensboro, N.C.-based Strandberg
Engineering Laboratories Inc. has introduced the Model 7762A Pick & Course Counter, a low-cost,
automatic controller that regulates fabric overfeed, compaction rates and shrinkage on tenter
frames, knit goods compactors and compressive shrinkage machines. The device also may be used for
cloth inspection in textile and apparel mills.


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Strandberg’s 7762A Pick & Course counter



Features include: high-speed signal processors that perform automatic thread analysis at
production speeds; a laser beam to count threads of the cloth as it makes contact with the sensor;
and a wheel-driven, high-precision surface displacement counter that allows display of picks and
courses to the nearest 10th per inch or centimeter on a light-emitting-diode display. According to
the company, quick, automatic adjustment enables the device to monitor pick and course counts in
almost any type of fabric as it is presented.


May/June 2006

Cotton Incorporated Forms Global Product Supply Chain Division

Cotton Incorporated, Cary, N.C., has
brought several divisions together into a new Global Product Supply Chain division with the
objective of improving cotton’s position and profitability in the global marketplace. Mark Messura,
who has been promoted to executive vice president from his former position as vice president,
Strategic Planning, heads the new division — which includes the former Textile Research, Fashion
Marketing, Global Product Marketing and Strategic Planning divisions.

“By repositioning certain departments, we are able to be more flexible and responsive to the
rapidly changing global market,” said J. Berrye Worsham, president and CEO. “We need to better link
and prioritize the research developments with the worldwide implementation of those services.
Bringing it all under one division will help us do that.”

Worsham praised Messura’s strategic planning experience and qualifications to lead the new
division. Messura previously managed Cotton Incorporated’s fiber economics research, consumer and
market research, and corporate planning programs. He also serves as vice chairman of the
International Forum for Cotton Promotion, comprised of 17 cotton industry organizations from 13
countries and dedicated to expanding the global market for cotton by promoting local
consumption.


May/June 2006

Zoltek To Create World’s Largest Carbon Fiber Facility

St. Louis-based carbon fiber
manufacturer Zoltek Cos. Inc. has announced it will use a $14.5 million grant from the Hungarian
government to expand its plant in that country to become the world’s largest carbon fiber
production facility.

The company will add 600 employees over the next few years as a result of the expansion,
which will include modernization of equipment, a quick buildup of manufacturing capacity for
acrylic fiber precursor raw material and carbon fiber, and establishment of a research and
development center.

“We are extremely grateful to the Hungarian government for [its] generous and steadfast
support,” said Zsolt Rumy, chairman, president and CEO, Zoltek. “Zoltek’s strategic goal is to
position the facility to stand at the epicenter of the next great revolution in building materials
in every important sense — from technological as well as marketing and manufacturing perspectives.”&
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May/June 2006

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