Automated scraper strainers paired with macerators eliminate high volumes of large, suspended solids from slurries for “set it and forget it” approach.
By Del Williams
Various industries including wastewater treatment, power generation, food processing, and chemical manufacturing depend on industrial strainers to separate unwanted suspended solids from liquids and slurries. However, conventional strainer methods can prove to be unreliable and lead to extensive maintenance, particularly in cases where the debris or solids are of substantial size and there is a significant amount of suspended solids present.
Fortunately, the utilization of a novel blend of industrial wastewater technologies now allows for the efficient removal of solids without the need for extensive manual labor, worker exposure to messy or potentially hazardous substances, or constant maintenance. Specifically, the design involves a one-two punch combination of a macerator, which breaks down large solids into smaller fragments, and an automated scraper strainer flexible enough to efficiently filter out larger debris along with tiny particles. This innovative solution can even accommodate high solids loading without clogging.
The combination of these two established technologies is already being applied to some of the toughest, dirtiest straining applications including wastewater debris, power plant boiler water slag, asphalt transloading, and meat processing waste streams.
Overcoming Traditional Limitations
Duplex strainers are often used in continuous flow processes that cannot be shut down for cleaning purposes. Duplex basket strainers employ two distinct chambers that function independently. When one chamber needs cleaning, the flow is seamlessly diverted to the alternate chamber, enabling the removal and cleaning of the first basket.
Cleaning is a messy, laborious process that involves equalizing pressure between the baskets, diverting flow to the off-line chamber, opening the cover, manually removing the clogged basket, and cleaning it before refitting the basket, ensuring the seal, and tightening the fasteners.
If an operator fails to adequately clean the basket strainers for any reason, both strainers can become clogged at the same time. This compromises the filtration process, resulting in quality issues or unexpected downtime until the problem is resolved. For many processors, this can occur simply due to having insufficient personnel to keep basket strainers clean along with their other duties.
“As an alternative, a combination of established complimentary technologies such as a macerator and an automated scraper strainer can essentially ‘knock out’ even the toughest problems related to large solids and high solids loading in an automated way,” says Robert Presser, Vice President of Acme Engineering Prod., Inc., a North American manufacturer of industrial self-cleaning strainers. The company is an ISO 9001:2015 certified manufacturer of environmental controls and systems with integrated mechanical, electrical, and electronic capabilities.
In this configuration, a macerator would be installed upstream to reduce large solids down to a manageable size. The capabilities of the automated strainer are crucial to the process as well, according to Presser.
“Although the macerator cuts up the biggest solids, the strainer must still be able to separate both relatively large pieces and tiny particles while handling high solids loading without becoming obstructed,” explains Presser.
In the case of Acme, the OEM’s automated scraper strainer is designed to continually remove both very large and very small suspended solids from liquids and slurries. Cleaning is accomplished by a spring-loaded blade and brush system, managed by a fully automatic control system.
Four scraper brushes rotate at 8 RPM, resulting in a cleaning rate of 32 strokes per minute. The scraper brushes get into wedge-wire slots and dislodge resistant particulates and solids. This approach enables the scraper strainers to resist clogging and fouling when faced with large solids and high solids concentration.
Blowdown typically occurs only at the end of the intermittent scraping cycle when a valve is opened for a few seconds to remove solids from the collector area. Liquid loss is well below 1 percent of total flow.
If additional pressure is required to clean the screen, Acme Engineering can add an inexpensive trash pump to the blowdown line to assist in removing the solids from the strainer sump.
“Since the solids are small, a little trash pump can pressurize the blowdown line to evacuate solids from the strainer. The combination provides quick ROI because operators no longer have to monitor and clean out heavily loaded basket strainers, resulting in substantially less labor and downtime,” Presser said.
Alternatively, the sump can be replaced by a cylinder bracketed by two gate valves that open and close as needed to remove the solids waste.
“When you are ready to empty the cylinder, you close the top gate valve momentarily and open the bottom one by depressing a button to dump the accumulated solids into a receptacle like a dump truck or a conveyor bucket so there is no manual handling required,” Presser said.
According to Presser, Acme has already worked with plant operators and managers to implement a wide range of specialized straining systems for difficult applications with exceptionally large solids or very high solids loading, including:
Power Plant Boiler Water Slag — To maintain optimal functionality of power plants using fuels other than natural gas, regular boiler cleaning is vital. Over time, boilers accumulate ash that forms slag deposits, which act as insulation on the boiler tubes. Consequently, more fuel is needed to achieve the desired temperature and output compared to a clean boiler. By removing slag deposits, boiler efficiency can be improved by 1 to 4 percent, leading to reduced emissions from power plants due to decreased fuel consumption.
In a power plant application, Acme Engineering addressed the slag issue by employing large cylinders and gate valves to strain out slag from a waste slurry produced during boiler washouts. The size of the cylinders used exceeded typical dimensions, with the largest cylinder measuring six feet tall and 18 inches wide.
Bunker C Fuel Oil — In another application, the OEM employed a strainer, cylinder, and gate valve configuration to eliminate solid impurities and debris from Bunker C fuel oil. Bunker C, a low-cost residual byproduct derived from the crude oil refinement process, is a viscous substance with a high asphalt content that includes concentrated trace minerals. In this scenario, Bunker C fuel was supplied to burners for power generation, necessitating the removal of any large clumps or oversized particles that could potentially obstruct the nozzles. Failure to do so could result in decreased production and unscheduled downtime for maintenance or repairs.
Asphalt Transloading at a Rail Facility — The OEM has installed equipment to strain asphalt slurries at intermodal terminals providing rail-to-truck and truck-to-rail transloading services. For transloading, asphalt is heated to a liquid form and transferred from tank cars to trucks or from trucks to tank cars. One application involved using multiple cylinders with gate valves to appropriately strain liquid asphalt to the correct specification for rail to truck loading.
Meat Processing Wastewater — In a poultry processing application, the OEM designed an automated strainer for a chicken producer to remove unwanted waste solids from a thick slurry. Although a macerator was not used in conjunction with the strainer for this application, it could have significantly improved the efficiency of the process with increased automation and reduced labor.
According to Presser, adapting strainers for the specialized filtration of uncommon liquids and slurries requires not only expertise but also collaboration with the processor as well as some design iterations.
“For unusual applications, it may take a few attempts to get it right. You may have to adjust the timing and frequency of cleaning as well as adjust the screen slot size. There are quite a few variables involved,” Presser concluded.
In various industries, processors depend on the filtration of liquids or slurries to meet quality and regulatory standards. When the removal of large solids or managing excessive solids loading exceeds the feasibility of manual basket strainer cleaning, integrating a combination of highly effective technologies may be the best decision.
Editor’s Note: Del Williams is a technical writer based in Torrance, Calif.
Interview with Lovis Kneisel, CEO of FUSE, about an alpine ski made from hemp-based composites
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FUSE is one of the main players in a current project to develop an alpine ski with an overall more sustainable and ecological production process than before. Specifically, the carbon dioxide footprint is to be significantly reduced. To achieve this, the value chain is to be converted to a circular economy and production is to be switched to processing the renewable raw material hemp in composite production. FUSE is working together with KARL MAYER Technische Textilien on the latter task.
Ulrike Schlenker from the Corporate Communication team at the Germany-based KARL MAYER GROUP spoke to Lovis Kneisel, managing director of FUSE GmbH, Germany, about the background and expectations surrounding the project.
Schlenker: Why did you choose to build an alpine ski for the joint project?
Kneisel: We had already been working on the development of adapted semi-finished products for biocomposite products in various market sectors for some time before the start of the project. Alpine sports is an industry that is fundamentally very open to innovations in the field of sustainability and, due to the many small players, provides rapid feedback on the suitability of new material systems and process approaches. Alpine skiing as such is an enormously exciting product, as the focus here is very much on performance. In close cooperation with SPURart in particular, our team has succeeded in substituting 100% of the glass fiber used and still developing an extremely high-performance ski. Even the SPURart pros are impressed by this innovation both on and off the slope.
Schlenker: Flax fibers are already being processed in the composites sector. What fascinates you about hemp? Are there any concrete figures on the benefits of this natural fiber in terms of environmental impact?
Kneisel: Flax and hemp are largely related in terms of their performance in composite materials. The advantage of hemp over flax lies in its ecology, but also in its economy. Unlike flax, hemp can be grown completely without chemical pesticides and is also available in good quality outside Belgium and France. As we consistently rely on secondary fibers —the so-called value fibers — for our semi-finished products, we are not in the usual procurement competition with the clothing industry for flax long fibers and can therefore pass on a very attractive cost structure to our customers.
Schlenker: What are the main advantages of using natural fiber tapes compared to natural fiber yarns in terms of the process chain and impregnation behavior?
Kneisel: The tapes are produced directly from the fiber as a flat structure, which saves the entire spinning process and also parts of the subsequent surface formation. The advantage of this is an essentially streamlined process.
Schlenker: What impact do you expect the project to have? What potential is there for the composites industry in other market segments? In your opinion, what other applications are possible apart from sports and automotive?
Kneisel: Natural fiber composites can be used in many different areas of application. The focus is not only on mobility or sports applications. They also offer advantages when used in load-bearing components in the building and construction sector or in the logistics sector. We are currently working together with a Swiss start-up to develop a circular Euro pallet.
Schlenker: How can natural fiber-based composites be paved the way for widespread applications? What challenges are there?
Kneisel: The industry’s interest in bio-based materials is very high and growing rapidly in light of the urgent need to decarbonize the industry. Biogenic raw materials in general, and fibers in particular due to their high performance requirements, are growth-dependent in terms of their qualitative and quantitative character. The main challenges are therefore always the reliable provision of high-quality and homogeneous materials and the continuous reduction of supply costs for industrial semi-finished products.
Schlenker: Let’s talk about the cooperation with KARL MAYER Technische Textilien. How long have you been working with this partner in the composites industry and what do you value about them?
Kneisel: The cooperation with KARL MAYER developed in the course of initial preliminary investigations for the HempSki project described above and has been steadily expanded since then. We value the company for its innovative spirit and its constant willingness to try out new things.
Schlenker: Thank you very much for this interesting interview.
In our modern world, sustainability has become more than just a buzzword; it’s a necessity. With environmental concerns looming large and economic pressures growing, innovative solutions are emerging to address both. One such solution is the transformation of waste into valuable resources, and paper yarn stands as a shining example. This remarkable material is not only environmentally friendly but also economically advantageous, offering a win-win solution for both the planet and your pocket.
The Rise of Paper Yarn
Paper yarn may sound like a novelty, but its roots trace back centuries. Traditional papermaking techniques have been adapted and refined to create a versatile and durable yarn that rivals conventional textiles in strength and flexibility. What sets paper yarn apart is its composition, typically derived from recycled paper fibers or sustainable sources like bamboo or sugarcane pulp.
Environmental Benefits
The environmental benefits of paper yarn are manifold. Firstly, it provides a second life to discarded paper, reducing the burden on landfills and cutting down on the demand for virgin materials. By repurposing waste into a useful product, paper yarn contributes to the circular economy, where resources are reused and recycled rather than disposed of after single use.
Furthermore, the production process for paper yarn consumes less energy and water compared to traditional textile manufacturing. It also generates fewer greenhouse gas emissions, helping to mitigate climate change. As a biodegradable material, paper yarn has minimal environmental impact at the end of its life cycle, unlike synthetic fibers which can persist in the environment for hundreds of years.
Economic Advantages
Beyond its environmental merits, paper yarn offers compelling economic advantages. Due to its abundance and low production costs, paper yarn is often more affordable than conventional textiles. This affordability extends to both consumers and businesses, making sustainable fashion and eco-friendly products accessible to a broader audience.
Moreover, the versatility of paper yarn opens up diverse opportunities for innovation and creativity. From clothing and accessories to home decor and packaging, the possibilities are endless. Designers and entrepreneurs can leverage the unique properties of paper yarn to create distinctive and marketable products that stand out in a crowded marketplace.
Sustainable Fashion Revolution
In recent years, the fashion industry has faced increasing scrutiny over its environmental and social impact. Fast fashion, characterized by rapid production cycles and disposable garments, has come under fire for its contribution to waste and exploitation. In response, consumers and brands alike are turning to sustainable alternatives, and paper yarn is emerging as a frontrunner in this movement.
By incorporating paper yarn into their collections, fashion designers can offer eco-conscious consumers stylish and sustainable options. From chic dresses and casual tops to statement accessories, paper yarn lends itself to a variety of designs without compromising on style or quality. With growing awareness of the environmental consequences of fashion choices, the demand for sustainable materials like paper yarn is on the rise.
Beyond Fashion: Practical Applications
While paper yarn has made significant inroads in the fashion industry, its utility extends far beyond clothing and accessories. In the realm of interior design, paper yarn finds applications in rugs, curtains, and upholstery, adding a touch of eco-friendly elegance to homes and commercial spaces. Its natural texture and earthy tones complement a range of decor styles, from minimalist modern to rustic chic.
Additionally, paper yarn is gaining traction in product packaging and branding. As businesses seek to reduce their carbon footprint and appeal to eco-conscious consumers, they are exploring sustainable alternatives to traditional packaging materials. Paper yarn offers a renewable and biodegradable option that combines functionality with aesthetic appeal, enhancing the perceived value of the product while minimizing environmental impact.
Conclusion
From waste to wow, paper yarn exemplifies the transformative power of sustainable innovation. By harnessing the potential of recycled materials, this humble yarn is not only saving the planet but also offering economic benefits to individuals and businesses alike. As consumers become more discerning and environmentally conscious, the demand for sustainable products will continue to grow, driving further innovation and adoption of materials like paper yarn. In a world facing pressing environmental challenges, solutions that marry sustainability with practicality are more valuable than ever. With paper yarn leading the way, the future looks brighter for both the planet and our wallets.
Editor’s Note: Rohit Dev Sethi is managing director for India-based ColossusTex.
Charging a doctor blade with molten PHA using a hot-melt gun. Photo: DITF
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Textiles for technical applications often derive their special function via the application of coatings. This way, textiles become, for example wind and water proof or more resistant to abrasion. Usually, petroleum-based substances such as polyacrylates or polyurethanes are used. However, these consume exhaustible resources and the materials can end up in the environment if handled improperly. Therefore, the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are researching materials from renewable sources that are recyclable and do not pollute the environment after use. Polymers that can be produced from bacteria are here of particular interest.
Doctor blade coating of molten PHA on a cotton fabric. Photo: DITF
These biopolymers have the advantage that they can be produced in anything from small laboratory reactors to large production plants. The most promising biopolymers include polysaccharides, polyamides from amino acids and polyesters such as polylactic acid or polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs), all of which are derived from renewable raw materials. PHAs is an umbrella term for a group of biotechnologically produced polyesters. The main difference between these polyesters is the number of carbon atoms in the repeat unit. To date, they have mainly been investigated for medical applications. As PHAs products are increasingly available on the market, coatings made from PHAs may also be increasingly used in technical applications in the future.
The bacteria from which the PHAs are obtained grow with the help of carbohydrates, fats and an increased CO2 concentration and light with suitable wavelength.
Coating a cotton yarn with PHA using a coating nozzle. Photo: DITF
The properties of PHA can be adapted by varying the structure of the repeat unit. This makes polyhydroxyalkanoates a particularly interesting class of compounds for technical textile coatings, which has hardly been investigated to date. Due to their water-repellent properties, which stem from their molecular structure, and their stable structure, polyhydroxyalkanoates have great potential for the production of water-repellent, mechanically resilient textiles, such as those in demand in the automotive sector and for outdoor clothing.
The DITF have already carried out successful research work in this area. Coatings on cotton yarns and fabrics made of cotton, polyamide and polyester showed smooth and quite good adhesion. The PHA types for the coating were both procured on the open market and produced by the research partner Fraunhofer IGB. It was shown that the molten polymer can be applied to cotton yarns by extrusion through a coating nozzle. The molten polymer was successfully coated onto fabric using a doctor blade. The length of the molecular side chain of the PHA plays an important role in the properties of the coated textile. Although PHAs with medium-length side chains are better suited to achieving low stiffness and a good textile handle, their wash resistance is low. PHAs with short side chains are suitable for achieving high wash and abrasion resistance, but the textile handle is somewhat stiffer.
Close-up of a cotton yarn coated with PHA. Photo: DITF.
The team is currently investigating how the properties of PHAs can be changed in order to achieve the desired resistance and textile properties in equal measure. There are also plans to formulate aqueous formulations for yarn and textile finishing. This will allow much thinner coatings to be applied to textiles than is possible with molten PHAs.
Other DITF research teams are investigating whether PHAs are also suitable for the production of fibers and nonwovens.
Companies displayed cutting-edge technologies for 3D garment simulation at ITMA 2023
By Seonyoung Youn
Garment production encompasses three primary manufacturing methods: cut-and-sew, fully-fashioned and whole garment. While cut-and-sew is widely used for its speed, it involves labor-intensive tasks and generates significant waste from leftover fabric pieces during cutting. In contrast, fully-fashioned eliminates cutting by shaping the pieces with finished edges, although it requires assembly. On the other hand, whole garment is an innovative solution that knits the entire garment in one seamless piece, eliminating the need for cutting and sewing while reducing waste yarns. However, it is slower and more suitable for sampling, making it the most expensive option.1
The advent of 3D digital technology has revolutionized garment manufacturing processes. Virtual samples have remarkably reduced material waste and labor-intensive tasks throughout the supply chain, specifically during the preproduction stages, such as 2D pattern design, fabric arrangement, fabric cutting, garment sewing, and fitting.2 Traditionally, these tasks consumed a substantial lead time in garment manufacturing processes. However, virtual sampling allows easy modification and has significantly reduced the average lead time from 37 days to 27 hours.3 Additionally, the COVID-19 pandemic underlined the challenges of in-person communication between buyers, manufacturers, and outsourcing contractors during lockdowns. Consequently, digitalization has transitioned from optional to necessity, accelerating the demand for effective communication. This shift is particularly prominent among global brands, outsourcing agents, vendors and contractors.3
This paper investigates the revolutionization of textile and apparel manufacturing through digitization and advanced garment design solutions. Drawing on observations from ITMA 2023, the focus is on digital technology advancements within the cut-and-sew and knit designs including whole garment production. By examining these advancements, the paper provides valuable insights into the impact of digitization on the textile and apparel industry. Figure 1 illustrates an overview of manufacturing types and their phases using digital simulation technology.
Figure 1: Overview of garment manufacturing types and phases with digitized production technology integration.
Cut-and-Sew 3D Garment Design Solutions
Global providers of 3D garment design software catering to both woven and knit garment production include CLO3D from South Korea-based CLO Virtual Fashion Inc.; VStitcher from Singapore-based Browzwear; France-based Lectra’s Modaris and Gerber’s AccuMark; Optitex from the FOG Software Group, Rosemont, Ill.; Japan-based Shima Seiki Mfg. Ltd.’s APEXFiz; Style 3D from China-based Linctex; Audaces360 from Brazil-based Audaces; and Adobe Substance from Adobe Inc., San Jose, Calif.
This paper focuses explicitly on advancements showcased at ITMA 2023 for each manufacturing process facilitated by 3D garment software. The cut-and-sew garment design process using digital simulation can be subdivided into four detailed phases — textile digitization, 2D/3D pattern design, 3D sewing and simulation and design review, or fit evaluation, before physical manufacturing.
Advancements In Textile Digitization
Textile digitization plays a crucial role in the initial stage of 3D garment simulation by providing precise physical property data for virtual fabric representation. This process involves capturing the materials’ visual and mechanical properties for realistic simulation. Typically, textile digitization involves manual measurements of physical properties using standard testing equipment or fabric kits provided by the software. These measurements, such as weight, thickness, stretch, and bending properties, are input data for simulating textiles in a virtual environment. However, this manual process takes approximately 20 minutes to measure each data set for a single fabric sample. For example, software like CLO 3D requires 23 input parameters of physical properties for simulating virtual fabrics. In addition to weight and thickness, users are required to measure stretch properties by testing tensile strength at five constant extensions in different directions — warp/wale, weft/course and bias. Bending properties necessitates measuring the fabric’s contact and bending distances in each direction. Although investing in an accurate representation of virtual material ensures precision, the manual process may not be efficient enough to meet the demands of fast fashion.
Automated textile digitization tools have emerged to address this challenge, focusing on ease of use, speed, reliability, and simplicity through computerized techniques. At ITMA 2023, Linctex, provider of Style 3D software, showcased three automated devices for textile digitization — the Style 3D fabric scanner, Style 3D bending tester and Style 3D tensile tester. These devices are fully integrated with the Style 3D software, enabling them to measure the required physical properties, as depicted in Figure 2.
First, users scan the fabric’s texture using the computerized fabric scanner. The fabric scanner incorporates a high-quality Nikon SLR camera equipped with 10 LEDs to digitally capture the fabric’s surface properties. The scanner has a lens that maintains a consistent-controlled light source to ensure accurate results and high-accuracy brightness balance. The fabric scanner eliminates manual data entry and ensures efficiency (See Figures 2a-c).
Additionally, the showcase includes a Style 3D bending and tensile tester that automates the evaluation of fabric’s physical properties, eliminating the need for manual measurement. The tensile tester accurately measures stretch strength up to 0.01 Newton with a precision of ± 0.5%. Meanwhile, the bending tester utilizes laser sensors to detect the fabric’s bending length in the weft, warp, and bias directions (See Figure 2d). The obtained physical properties and AI-generated fabric texture maps can be seamlessly uploaded into Style 3D’s design software (See Figure 2e). These 3D digital files incorporate texture maps and digitized physical properties, enabling comprehensive data for realistic fabric simulation (See Figure 2f). Furthermore, the finalized digital file format, .u3ma, is compatible with other 3D simulation software.
Another innovative solution showcased at the ITMA 2023 is SEDDI’s Textura™ platform. The platform employs artificial intelligence (AI) technology to revolutionize the process of textile digitization. In contrast to conventional approaches that necessitate expensive equipment, SEDDI’s Textura offers a streamlined solution. By simply scanning a fabric surface with any scanner and entering four essential fabric details — weight, thickness, fabric types, and fiber compositions — Textura automatically generates digitized physical properties resulting in a 3D digital file available for download in various formats such as .zip, .u3ma, and .sbsar files (See Figure 3). The entire process can be completed within approximately five minutes, from scanning an image to downloading the digitalized files.
Figure 3: Textura Platform by SEDDI. (a) captured image of the uploaded scanned image on the Textura™ Platform, and (b) downloading page for the 3D digital file, showcasing the exploration and prediction of drapes.
The AI-powered platform incorporates cutting-edge technologies, including Artificial Neural Network (ANN) and Digital Image Analysis (DIA) algorithms commonly employed in image analysis and computer vision. These algorithms can estimate yarn and fabric properties parameters.4 SEDDI’s Textura is a cloud-based operation, eliminating users’ need to invest in expensive hardware for installation or regularly purchase updates. Instead, they can benefit from automatic updates, ensuring they stay updated with the latest improvements.
Advancements In 2D/3D Pattern Design
Traditionally, the 2D/3D pattern design process involved starting with 2D paper patterns or draping on a 3D mannequin and then transferring the markings from 3D to 2D patterns. However, with advanced 3D design software, designers can now seamlessly and simultaneously explore 2D to 3D and 3D to 2D design approaches using digital technologies.
One notable solution in this field showcased at ITMA 2023 is AUDACES 360® by Audaces. AUDACES 360 presents an all-in-one solution that integrates multiple productive phases of the design process. This comprehensive package includes various platforms designed to streamline different aspects of the workflow. Among the innovative approaches demonstrated by AUDACES 360, two stand out in the context of the 2D/3D pattern design process. The first approach utilizes the Fashion Studio® platform, which enables designers to flatten 2D patterns from a 3D mannequin by dissecting fitted garments (See Figures 4a-b). This 3D-to-2D flatten technology allows for adjustments in length, volume, color/pattern placements and materials (See Figure 4c). This technique is particularly beneficial for users without a background in pattern design, as it facilitates the creation of complicated garments like dresses by allowing them to experiment with individual panel pieces on the 3D mannequin.
The second approach involves the Digiflash® platform, which efficiently and precisely digitizes pattern paper. By capturing a photo of pattern templates stored by the company, the Digiflash effortlessly captures the 2D pattern details and transfers them into a digital format. Once digitized, the Pattern® platform enables precise modifications and automated size grading (See Figures 4d-f). The Marker® and Supera® platforms also optimize efficiency by automatically generating fabric markers and managing marking queues (See Figures 4g-h). With the comprehensive platform provided by AUDACES 360, designers can seamlessly transition between 2D and 3D design approaches, resulting in a streamlined pattern design process.
Advancements In 3D Sewing And Simulation
At ITMA 2023, SEDDI unveiled Author™, a cutting-edge innovation that introduced several vital advancements including its cloud-native capability. The cloud-native feature enables seamless collaboration among stakeholders such as designers, pattern makers, and buyers, facilitating real-time communication and streamlined workflows. SEDDI Author introduces two game-changing functions: True Seam™ and Digital Twin™. True Seam revolutionizes 3D garment prototyping by accurately simulating the impact of physical properties of seam construction on the garment, such as stitch types, seam types, and the number of folds. Unlike modern 3D design software that overlooks these crucial details, True Seam empowers designers to make informed decisions in real time, enhancing the reliability of 3D simulations for production. The overview of 3D prototyping using True Seam is depicted in Figure 5.
Following True Seam’s feature, the next level is Digital Twin, bringing the virtual garment even closer to realism. By simulating the dynamic postures of the avatar, Digital Twin represents the physical behavior of the garment construction and how the seams interact when the avatar moves. For example, Figure 6 highlights the difference between True Seam and Digital Twin modes in the real-time Author™ platform.
The Digital Twin technology accurately captures the realistic behavior of fabric, including its stretching over the avatar’s legs and natural bunching, resulting in an authentic representation. In Figure 6a, the technology accounts for intricate details, such as lifting bust darts due to the avatar’s motion, attributed to surface friction and mechanical interaction between the fabric and the skin. This simulation reproduces real-life body movements, enhancing the high-fidelity of the virtual representation. Moreover, as shown in Figure 6b, the Digital Twin enables designers to make subtle adjustments, such as optimizing creases in the crotch area, without modifying the entire 2D pattern, thereby reducing fabric waste. Designers can decide to choose the proper material from the previous single jersey fabric, composed of viscose and elastane at 193 grams per square meter (gsm), to Tricot fabric, composed of nylon and elastane at 198 gsm, based on the virtual simulation prior to physical production. This informed decision-making process is facilitated by the Digital Twin features, which assist designers in selecting the most suitable material throughout garment manufacturing.
Advancements In Garment Fitting Evaluation
Fitting evaluation is the final phase before creating physical samples. Virtual fitting involves objective measurements to assess the garment fit and the wearer’s pressure comfort.5 In this context, simulated stress and strain are essential mechanical properties to evaluate garment fit. Garment stress refers to the internal forces and pressure exerted on the fabric and seams when worn or subjected to movement, measured in kilopascals (kPa). Garment strain, on the other hand, refers to the fabric’s deformation or elongation in response to applied stress, measured as a percentage.6
During ITMA 2023, Style3D design software showcased an advanced feature that introduces further enhancements to fitting evaluation. The new feature lets designers modify the avatar’s body proportions while evaluating the fit through stress and strain. Unlike the traditional approach, where designers work with a fixed avatar shape, cutting-edge technology allows for changes in body sizes — leg, shoulder, neck, height, bust, thigh and arm length — and facial expressions, poses, and animations. By incorporating dynamic body modifications, designers can better understand how garments will fit various body types and sizes, ultimately enhancing the accuracy and effectiveness of fitting evaluations. Figure 7 illustrates how the software can simulate the wearer’s fit with the garment by changing the circumference of her belly to simulate pregnancy.
Knit Design Solutions: Whole Garment; Advancement In 3D Knit Garment Design
Digital technology has transformed garment production, surpassing traditional cut-and-sew methods. An innovative approach is fully-fashioned or whole garment production, pioneered by Shima Seiki. Using advanced computerized knitting machines, Shima Seiki enables seamless construction of complete garments, including sleeves, body and neckline. This eliminates the need for separate fabric panels, reducing materials consumption and manual labor. At ITMA 2023, Shima Seiki unveiled APEXFiz™, its updated software featuring a comprehensive suite of design tools. Tailored to meet diverse user needs, the software includes Design-Knit for flat and circular knit designers, and Design-Weave for weave and towel designers. A centralized data bank called Shima Datamall™ provides efficient storage and search functionality for yarn, knit, design, and 3D pattern data. This integrated approach streamlines knit garment production planning, allowing designers to efficiently locate and utilize necessary resources (See Figure 8a).
Designers can seamlessly incorporate the downloaded yarn, knit design, or pattern data into their chosen design program. The APEXFiz software empowers designers to create technical lines that accurately represent their desired knit structure. By designing these lines alongside the knit structures, users can assign specific stitch types and patterns to each line, thus determining the construction of the knit product (See Figure 8b). Once the knit sample is completed, they can simulate the knitting process in the virtual V-bed flat machine. This step allows them to assess their design’s feasibility and visualize their knit product’s outcome (See Figure 8c). Upon finalizing the design of the knit structure, the software generates output files that contain essential information, including stitch data, technical specifications, and color details. These files are crucial for the technical production process. A notable advantage is a seamless integration between Shima Seiki’s design software and their physical V-bed knitting machines, enabling a straightforward transfer of the knit data files. This streamlined process greatly facilitates physical production (See Figure 8d).
Breaking Barriers: Advancements In Seamless Communication Between Yarn And 3D Garment Simulation
There are distinctions between yarn-level simulation software, such as Shima Seiki’s knitting software, and cut-and-sew 3D garment simulation software, like Style 3D, CLO 3D, for example. Yarn simulation takes a bottom-up approach, simulating yarn properties, including yarn types, denier, density, thickness, weight, stitch density, and knit structures.7 In contrast, cut-and-sew 3D garment simulation software employs a top-down approach, relying on fabric-level physical properties representation, employing techniques like discretization and a mass-spring model.8 When it comes to visual representation of knit construction in 3D garment simulation, scanned fabric images are utilized to generate texture maps, distinguishing it from yarn-level simulation. Because of these fundamental modeling differences, seamless compatibility between yarn and 3D garment simulation software is not attainable. Figure 9 visually illustrates typical issues that arise when knitting files are transferred to external 3D software, resulting in unrealistic stitch transitions, misalignment between rib and body structure stitches, and the absence of stitch decreases and fully fashioned marks.
The lack of integration between virtual sampling and technical production can lead to impractical outcomes that are difficult to knit. To bridge the gap between yarn and 3D garment simulation, Karl Mayer Group has introduced k.innovation CREATE DESIGN and k.innovation CREATE PLUS (KM.ON). This comprehensive digital solution, showcased at ITMA 2023, revolutionizes the textile industry workflow by digitizing every step and addressing the challenges of accurately representing visual knit construction with any 3D external garment design software, as illustrated in Figure 10.
The workflow with KM.ON consists of three main steps. To proceed with knit design, designers can construct a 3D shape based on the 2D pattern design. They can utilize pre-set templates or import a DXF file for added flexibility (See Figure 10a). Then, the 3D shape is converted into knit stitches using features such as stitch libraries, jacquard/intarsia patterns, color reduction, and technical checks. This seamless transition from 3D design to technical data ensures a smooth integration (See Figure 10b). The finalized design can be exported as knit texture maps for external 3D garment design software utilization. The knit data includes a DXF file, Fully Fashioned Texture Map, Alpha Map, Normal Map, and Displacement Map (See Figure 10c). These data elements are crucial for achieving a highly realistic representation of fabric texture in the 3D garment design program. Finally, Figure 11 displays successful examples of knit apparel prototypes, demonstrating their compatibility with various external 3D software tools.
ITMA 2023 served as a platform to showcase remarkable technological innovations in digitized garment manufacturing. Companies presented advancements in software, highlighting the importance of digitalization, automation, reliability, versatility, and sustainability on all-in-one platforms. While the industry embraces digital solutions, ensuring reliability and accuracy in virtualized textiles remains a significant challenge due to the absence of standardized testing methods. Thoroughly examining the mechanical and visual representations is essential to instill confidence in the virtualized textile and ensure seamless physical production. The user’s perception of virtual fabric and garments also plays a vital role. Establishing practical correlations between numerical evaluations of garment fit and the wearer’s comfort or perception is imperative. By addressing these challenges, the full potential of digitization and advanced garment design can be realized, enhancing reliability and acceptance within the textile and apparel industry.
References
Larsson, J., Mouwitz, P., & Peterson, J. (2013). Knit on Demand—Mass customisation of knitted fashion products. Textile Journal.
Weinswig, D. (2017). Deep Dive: An Overview of the Digitalization of the Apparel Supply Chain.
Hwang Shin, S.-J., & Lee, H. (2020). The use of 3D virtual fitting technology: Comparison between sourcing agents contractors and domestic suppliers in the apparel industry. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 13(3), 300–307.
Carvalho, V., Cardoso, P., Belsley, M., Vasconcelos, R. M., & Soares, F. O. (2006). Development of a Yarn Evenness Measurement and Hairiness Analysis System. IECON 2006 – 32nd Annual Conference on IEEE Industrial Electronics, 3621–3626.
Youn, S., Mathur, K., Knowles, C., Ju, B., Sennik, B., & Jur, J. (2023). Simulation-based Prediction Model to Optimize Contact Pressure of Knitted Fabrics for Wearable Garments. 9th International Conference on Human Interaction and Emerging Technologies – Artificial Intelligence and Future Applications.
Fabric Kit Manual. (2020, July 17). How Can We Help You? https://support.clo3d.com/hc/en-us/articles/360041074334-Fabric-Kit-Manual
Sperl, G., Sánchez-Banderas, R. M., Li, M., Wojtan, C., & Otaduy, M. A. (2022). Estimation of yarn-level simulation models for production fabrics. ACM Transactions on Graphics, 41(4), 1–15.
Baraff, D., & Witkin, A. (1998). Large steps in cloth simulation. Proceedings of the 25th Annual Conference on Computer Graphics and Interactive Techniques – SIGGRAPH ’98, 43–54.
Editor’s Note: Seonyoung Youn is a Ph.D. student at NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles. Her major is Fiber and Polymer Science and her area of study is e-textile and wearable garment design using digital technology. She expects to graduate this July.
CHARLOTTE, NC — April 19, 2024 — The Board of Directors of Elevate Textiles, a global provider of advanced, high-quality products and mission critical textile solutions, is pleased to announce that Jeffrey P. Pritchett will join the company as Chief Executive Officer and Member of the Board of Directors on April 23, 2024.
Jeff Pritchett, Elevate CEO
“We are all thrilled that Jeff is joining and confident that his diverse experience driving commercial and operational excellence as well as successfully navigating strategic M&A initiatives make him the ideal leader to achieve our business objectives and maximize our impact as a global, consolidated platform”, says Jim Continenza, Chairman of the Board of Directors for Elevate Textiles. “Jeff brings the right combination of leadership experience, passion and expertise to drive the next phase of growth, innovation and sustainability for all of the stakeholders at Elevate.”
Mr. Pritchett added, “I am honored to be joining Elevate and look forward to partnering with the Board and our leadership team(s) to build on the significant accomplishments they have made to date. I am impressed with the differentiated global footprint and integrated platform, customer collaboration, environmental solutions, innovative product development and operational expertise that I’ve seen thus far, and I’m incredibly excited about what we will accomplish together in the future to continue to drive growth and improvement around our delivery of premium, mission-critical textile solutions globally.”
Pritchett joins Elevate with more than 25 years of multi-industry global leadership experience in both public and private companies. He most recently served as Senior Managing Director and Senior Operating Executive of Cerberus Operations and Advisory Company LLC, an affiliate of Cerberus Capital Management L.P. He also held numerous Cerberus portfolio company Board and leadership roles.
Earlier in his career, he served as Chief Operating Officer and on the Board of Directors at Champion One LLC, Executive Vice President, Chief Financial Officer, and Head of Global Operations at InnerWorkings and held senior leadership positions at Vertis Communications, including Senior Vice President and Chief Financial Officer. Before that, he held various leadership positions at General Motors and Delphi Automotive.
NEW YORK — April 19, 2024 — Indo Count, the largest global bed linen manufacturer and exporter from India, announces its strategic acquisition of the international home fashions brand WAMSUTTA from Beyond, Inc.. Wamsutta – an industry-leading home fashions brand – has delighted generations of consumers with luxurious bed, bath and other home fashion products. This acquisition, which closed on April 18, 2024, strengthens Indo Count’s brand portfolio, and elevates its position in the premium market segment. Terms of the deal were not disclosed.
Renowned for its exceptional quality and a brand legacy dating back to 1846, WAMSUTTA is poised for substantial growth under Indo Count’s leadership.
Mohit Jain, Executive Vice Chairman of Indo Count, expressed his enthusiasm about the acquisition, stating, “Wamsutta – with its 178-year brand heritage – resonates strongly in the marketplace. We will explore multiple channels of distribution to reach the core Wamsutta consumer and also introduce an entire new generation to the exceptional quality and luxury of the Wamsutta brand.”
“Our strategic vision is to leverage our operational capabilities to enhance the brand value proposition and fulfill its potential globally. WAMSUTTA’s brand equity, combined with Indo Count’s global reach will catapult the brand to new heights and represents a significant milestone towards our expansion strategy,” Mr. Jain added.
ISTANBUL, Turkey — April 19, 2024 — Leading textile machinery manufacturers, global industry investors and professional visitors will meet at ITM 2024 to see the latest textile technologies. The fact that the textile manufacturers of the countries that have visa problems when travelling to Europe will not have this problem when coming to Istanbul will increase the number of exhibitors and visitors of ITM 2024 Exhibition.
The countdown has started for ITM 2024 International Textile Machinery Exhibition, one of the most important organisations in the world in its field. ITM 2024 Exhibition, which will open its doors to its visitors at Tüyap Fair and Congress Center between 4-8 June 2024; will host textile technology leaders from all over the world in Istanbul for 5 days. Global sector investors and professional visitors will flush to ITM 2024 Exhibition to see the latest technologies closely.
The visa agreement between Turkey and many countries such as India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Indonesia, Vietnam, Egypt, Algeria, Tunisia, Morocco, Iran, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, which are the shining stars of the textile world with their great potential and production power, will be effective in increasing the number of visitors. Textile manufacturers of countries that have visa problems when travelling to Europe will be able to obtain their visas by applying to the Consulates of the Republic of Turkey in their countries.
İstanbul Offers Great Convenience to Visitors in terms of Transport and Accommodation
On the other hand; the fact that the exhibition is held in Istanbul, which is geographically the closest point connecting the countries to each other, turns ITM 2024 Exhibition into a centre of attraction for both exhibitors and visitors. Located within a 3-hour flight distance to the world’s major trade centres, Istanbul provides easy access to both the surrounding provinces and neighbouring countries by air, sea and land. The fact that Turkish Airlines flies to a total of 340 different destinations in 129 countries is also effective in making Istanbul easily accessible. In addition to European countries; Investors from the Middle East, North Africa, Turkic Republics and Balkan countries will be able to reach Istanbul after a 3-hour flight and visit the ITM 2024 Exhibition.
In addition, Istanbul offers great convenience to exhibitors and visitors coming for the exhibition with its accommodation facilities. Thanks to the proximity of the hotels to the fairgrounds, visitors coming to ITM 2024 from Turkey and abroad will not have any difficulty in terms of accommodation.
IEPER, Belgium — April 18, 2024 — Technical textiles are one of the pillars in the long-term product strategy of Picanol, the world’s leading manufacturer of weaving machines. Techtextil Frankfurt is the most important international trade fair for technical textiles and represents the world’s central marketing and sourcing platform for users and manufacturers of technical textiles.
From April 23 to April 26, 2024, Picanol will be exhibiting at Techtextil Frankfurt in Hall 12.0, Booth C01. On the one hand, the unique combination of revolutionary product platforms in rapier and airjet weaving technology and the digital platform PicConnect, and on the other hand dedicated solutions for technical fabrics offer our customers the best of all worlds: reliability, performance, and flexibility – in the most sustainable way. During Techtextil Frankfurt, Picanol will present its solutions for various applications, including filter fabrics, agro-textiles, carpet-backing, coating fabrics, para-aramides, and tire cords.
The all-new, revolutionary Ultimax rapier weaving machine
Picanol’s all-new and revolutionary rapier weaving machine, the Ultimax, focuses on three main benefits: ultimate performance and high-quality output, readiness for the sustainability requirements of tomorrow, and the greatest ease of use thanks to a maximum level of digitalization. In addition, the classic Picanol exterior design of the machine has been radically disrupted in order to make it clear from the outside just how revolutionary the Ultimax is on the inside. The Ultimax excels in the fields of performance and quality, it has been designed with sustainability as the baseline, and the high degree of digitization results in a previously unseen ease of use.
OptiMax-i Connect rapier weaving machine
The predecessor of the Ultimax, the OptiMax-i Connect rapier weaving machine remains available for specific applications for weaving technical textiles, up to 540 cm.
OmniPlus-i Connect airjet weaving machine
Picanol recently launched a speed increase on its airjet platform, the OmniPlus-i Connect. This is another example of how Picanol sets the benchmark in the industry. With the brand-new leno system, the o-Leno, smart performance, user-friendliness, and intuitive control are combined optimally. Picanol also offers a dedicated version of this airjet machine for tire cord applications, the OmniPlus-i TC Connect.
Digital innovations in PicConnect
With PicConnect, Picanol is centralizing its digital tools and services in one new fully digital platform. Those visiting Techtextil Frankfurt will be able to discover all the benefits and latest features of PicConnect to leverage the full extent of the possibilities offered by Picanol weaving machines.
Picanol has a strong ambition to further grow together with our technical customers – enhancing their market success. We are looking forward to welcoming all our customers, prospects, and partners at our booth during Techtextil Frankfurt.
RONSE, Belgium — April 18, 2024 — Devan Chemicals, a global supplier of innovative textile solutions, proudly announces the launch of its latest breakthrough in textile finishing technology “Devan Stain Release”. With a focus on sustainability and performance, the company is proud to launch a release technology that ensures that both water and oil based stains can easily be washed off.
Devan ‘s new release finish prevents water and oil based stains such as ketchup, mud, grass, tea, vegetable and corn oils from adhering deeply to the fibres and allows stains to be washed off easily from the surface. The technology combines both stain release and wicking properties, making it ideal for applications where this dual benefit is required.
Front view of stained t-shirt from left to right of sauce and fruits: left up side to right down: mustard, kitchen oil, ketchup, papaya. avocado, oyster sauce,
“We are thrilled to introduce this release technology to the market,” says Dr. Roberto Teixeira, Chief Technology Officer at Devan Chemicals. “Our team has worked very hard to develop a solution that not only provides exceptional stain release but also aligns with our commitment to sustainability. This technology is PFC-free and has 40% of bio-based content. By offering effective protection against both water and oil based stains, we are empowering consumers to enjoy their textiles with confidence, knowing they are protected against everyday spills and mishaps.”
Thanks to Devan Stain Release, stains can easily be washed off in home laundries, even at low temperature. The solution is most effective for cotton and cotton blends, but will also enhance the performance of synthetics.
Key features of Devan’s release technology include:
Sustainable formulation: the technology is PFC-free, and with 40% of bio-based content.
Easy to apply: Unlike many PFC-based solutions that require mixing of multiple products, Devan Stain Release is an easy to apply and ready-to-use product that doesn’t necessitate mixing of different products.
The finish doesn’t require reactivation after washing at home with high temperature
Soft handle is maintained
Devan Stain Release is applicable across a wide range of textile applications, including school uniforms, garments, workwear, apparel, home textiles, bedding accessories and mattress ticking.
In addition, the technology also enhances the longevity of fabrics by reducing the need for frequent washing, ultimately contributing to a more sustainable consumption cycle.
Devan remains committed to innovation and sustainability, continuously exploring new avenues to revolutionize the textile industry and address the evolving needs of consumers worldwide.
Automated scraper strainers paired with macerators eliminate high volumes of large, suspended solids from slurries for “set it and forget it” approach.
