Meredith Boyd: UNIFI® Leader & SYFA President

Meredith Boyd

UNIFI®’s Meredith Boyd talks about her career in the fiber industry and her new role as president of the Synthetic Yarn & Fabric Association (SYFA).

TW Special Report

Meredith Boyd has been involved in the textile industry now for some 17 years. Her first job, after her time at NC State University’s Wilson College of Textiles and UNC-Charlotte, was with Unifi Kinston LLC, part of Unifi Inc., Greensboro, N.C., where Boyd has carved a successful career in the fiber industry. Most recently, she was promoted to executive vice president and chief product officer at Unifi.

Boyd also took the helm of the Synthetic Yarn and Fabric Association (SYFA) this past spring where she will serve a two-year term as president. She was initially encouraged to engage with SYFA by Unifi colleagues — including past SYFA President Pat Murray, Joel Cornelius, Terry Turner and Charlie King — as a way to gain more understanding of key technical topics, customer needs and opportunities for collaboration.

Textile World recently spoke with Boyd about her career in the fiber industry and her new role as SYFA president.

TW: What has your career trajectory looked like? Where did you start at Unifi and what stepping-stones brought you to your current position of executive vice president and chief product officer?

Boyd: Unifi has afforded so many opportunities for exposure and learning in my years. I started at the Unifi Kinston site in Kinston, N.C. This was Unifi’s continuous polymerization site and was originally DuPont’s first plant dedicated to the commercial production of polyester fiber.

I started in the quality lab. I then had the opportunity to move to Unifi’s Yadkinville, N.C., site at an exciting time — just as we were commercializing the REPREVE® recycled polyester product. I worked in the partially oriented yarn (POY) spinning plant focusing on our specialty additive and polymer products including Repreve. I was fortunate to be involved as we worked on the technology backward integration of Repreve and opened our own recycling center.

I then had the chance to move into the product development team.This was my first big move to work across business units within the company. I gained exposure to all of Unifi’s core businesses and supported our new product efforts and gained a lot of customer-facing experience.

UNIFI’s Yadkinville plant is where flake and post-industrial materials, including fabric and yarn waste, are recycled into REPREVE®.

My next role was in global business development — ultimately leading that team. This role worked on expanded new markets, leveraged strategic partner-ships, and worked on expanding our production footprint particularly in Asia.

I then took a role as vice president of our Brand Sales division. This role helped me further develop my understanding of the key role of the customer in our development and communication processes.

I then had the opportunity to return wholly to the technical side in 2019 as senior vice president of Global Innovation, gaining responsibility for leading— and learning from! — a brilliant team of material scientists, engineers and technicians for all of our new process and product development initiatives. The role further expanded into leading our plant technology and sustainability teams.

My current role as executive vice president and chief product officer encompasses so much
of what I have loved and provides the continuing opportunity to learn every day. Beyond innovation and plant technology,

I now have the chance to lead business development and our marketing and communication teams.

TW: As an executive who has crafted a multi-faceted career in the synthetic fiber industry, what do you consider the milestones?

Boyd: So many of my career milestones have been cultivated by advancements in Unifi and in the industry. The global expansion of Repreve and its worldwide production has been fascinating and energizing on which to work. The role of environmental sustainability as a cohesive part of corporate strategies has been exciting — not only at Unifi —but at so many companies.

And I’d be remiss not to mention the COVID-19 pandemic. The pandemic challenged all of us to think differently and be innovative. We realized how important supply chain security really is — the need to ensure that U.S. and regional manufacturing only strengthen — not only for “nice to haves” but also for our own national security.

TW: What skills brought you success and what skills did you need to attain to continue your career progress?

Boyd: Curiosity is probably what comes the most in handy because it is tied into my love of learning, embracing innovation, and growth. Embracing others and the talents and ideas they bring is another key facet of success — always surrounding oneself with people who know more than you do and have different talents and expertise is an amazing way to build a team.

UNIFI has converted more than 40 million bottles into REPREVE®.

TW: How have the demands of the industry changed? For instance, what education and skills did you need to help address Unifi’s focus on sustainability?

Boyd: There are art and science aspects to this industry. Many things can be learned in school, but so much of this industry is experiential in nature. Certain areas like the roles of automation, machine learning, and artificial intelligence are becoming critically important. Sustainability was an area of immense interest but also naivete on my part. I sought out thought leaders, conferences, mentors, and resources that could help me learn. I have also been fortunate to work with a number of talented hires and interns with specialized expertise in this area that helped me to learn key facets of how to generate data and communicate opportunities in this space.

TW: Synthetic fibers and fabrics often are regarded to be at the center of sustainability issues yet are growing in importance to the textile industry. What is your vision/answer to those who question the sustainability of synthetics and their future in the industry?

Boyd: Synthetic fiber, filament and spun yarns, and resins are so critical across a multitude of industries. Polyester fiber is the largest volume synthetic fiber produced globally.1 Synthetic fibers as a whole represent approximately 65 percent of the global textile fiber input volume.2 It’s imperative to focus on making the materials that are most widely utilized the best we can for the environment. This is how we can collectively have the most positive impact on the environment and the people who inhabit it.

There are solutions now — that are at scale — that can offer lower environmental impact materials. Eliminating materials is not a sustainable solution — materials are fundamental to our very lives — from apparel to homes to our cars, in industrial applications and much more. Rather, utilizing solutions available today will help us all mutually invest in the technology we need for solutions for the future.

TW: You have always given your time and talents in support of the SYFA. During your tenure as president, what would you like to see SYFA accomplish/support/focus on?

Boyd: We will emphasize and promote the importance of the industry particularly in the United States and regionally. As an industry, we have tremendous capabilities at all points of production that need to be leveraged across all markets. Ensuring that our membership, and those outside of it, know the manufacturing powerhouse that is here is critical to our mission. Additionally, we have always emphasized the technical nature of our conferences. We want to be a destination for emphasizing innovation and information sharing for the betterment of the industry.

We also have to grow our membership. Increasing exposure to new companies and colleagues within new and existing member companies, is critical for the organization but also for the industry. It is important that young people — as well as those more seasoned! — feel a core connection to the industry.

TW: How do you view the role of SYFA, and what does the organization mean to the U.S. textile industry?

Boyd: SYFA is a common thread amongst key manufacturers through the value chain. We link together fabric and fiber producers, chemical manufacturers, technology providers and more. Giving awareness to our membership, and those outside of it, regarding the capabilities of this industry is a key role we need to play. Additionally, we support other key resources in the industry including scholarships for workforce development.

TW: Give a quick value synopsis for a first-time conference attendee. What can they expect to see and learn at an SYFA conference?

Boyd: The conference is focused on offering two key benefits for all attendees — valuable information that is relevant to the industry and companies attending, as well as the opportunity to network beyond one’s own company. We integrate industry and beyond-industry speakers with valuable networking times to ensure that both goals can be met.

TW: For textile industry leaders who step forward to serve in elected positions, there is an added commitment of time and brain power to the duties involved. How will you balance those new demands with your responsibilities at Unifi?

Boyd: There is never success without a great team. I’m fortunate to be surrounded by mentors and leaders of experience — both in the membership but also on the SYFA board. The directors on the board are all serving in a volunteer function — we are all investing time into providing the support and services of the organization to the industry. We work collectively on activation of key events and execution of the conferences twice yearly. Additionally, we have our SYFA director, Rodney Turner, and tremendous support from Sheree Turner. Their dedication to the membership is a tremendous support.

TW: Anything else you would like to share with TW readers about SYFA and its conferences?

Boyd: We recently introduced new opportunities like our annual golf tournament to support scholarship opportunities at the Textile Technology Center.

In addition, feedback is always valued. We want to hear from our members, as well as those who aren’t yet members regarding how the organization can provide the most value for what every company needs.

TW: Lastly, as the industry focuses on developing and attracting new talent, what picture can you paint for young people about the rewards of a career in textiles and the synthetic fiber industry?

Boyd: I believe the same reasons that drew me to this industry will draw young people in today. This industry is globally engaged and regionally critical. We are an industry of makers — we make products that can protect our armed forces, clothe newborn babies, and line our first cars. The upstream and downstream value chain gives an opportunity for real collaboration and exposure.

References:
1 Polyester fibers — New Jersey Institute of Technology (njit.edu).
2 Global textile fiber market share by type 2022 / Statista.

2024 Quarterly Issue IV

Textile Associations Join Together For The Benefit Of Industry; Host Inaugural “Alphabet Soup” Shindig During Techtextil North America 2024

Textile industry associations want the textile industry to know they are talking. With a desire to work more collaboratively on industry initiatives and events that are beneficial to all their respective members, 11 associations — Advanced Textiles Association (ATA),American Textile Machinery Association (ATMA),Americas Apparel Producers’ Network (AAPN), American Association of Tex-tile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC),Association of the Nonwovens Fabrics Industry (INDA), the Nonwovens Institute (NWI), North American Linen Association (NALA), SEAMS – The Association & Voice of the U.S. Sewn Products Industry, Southern Textile Association (STA), Sewn Products Equipment and Suppliers of the Americas (SPESA), and Synthetic Yarn & Fabric Association (SYFA) — recently got together to discuss ways to benefit the industry.

“We all represent various segments of the textiles and sewn products industry,” said Maggie McDonald, vice president, Communications, SPESA. “But we all agree that collaboration and building on synergies is what will propel our industry into its next chapter.”

This “Alphabet Soup Collective,” as the group has affectionately named itself, was officially launched during Techtextil North America (TTNA) 2024 held in Raleigh. N.C. One of the first ideas for the collective was to co-host a social event open to all members of the textile industry including current association members as well as non-members wanting to learn more.The result, the inaugural Alphabet Soup Shindig, was held at the Whiskey Kitchen during TTNA. This first-of-its-kind, sold-out event gathered people from all aspects of the industry in one place at the same time to network, learn and collaborate.Attendance far exceeded expectations, illustrating a hunger for these types of cross-industry net-working opportunities.

Twelve sponsors were instrumental in making the shindig happen:

  • American & Efird;
  • Asheboro Elastics Corp.(AEC);
  • Baxter Mill Archives;
  • Better Than Found;
  • Coker & Associates;
  • Contempora Fabrics;
  • Danbartex;
  • Gribbin Strategic;
  • Itema America Inc.;
  • MajorSage Business Coaching; MMI Textiles; and
  • North Carolina Textile Foundation at NC State University.

Ben Talbert, president and CEO of Greenville, S.C.-based Better Than Found Search Group, one of the event sponsors, said:“Better than Found Search Group (BTF) was proud to sponsor this event.The textile community is a family, and this felt like our reunion.”
As McDonald noted:“Good people, good networking, good vibes,AND good weather. Doesn’t get much better.”

The Alphabet Soup Collective will continue its conversations as it looks for ways to collaborate, streamline events and gather the industry in productive, beneficial ways for all involved.

2024 Quarterly Issue IV

Bondex Expands Operations

Bondex, based in Columbia, S.C., has invested $18.8 million to add a new needlepunch line to its facility located in Trenton, S.C. The investment created 13 new jobs and will serve growing demand from global customers for filtration, automotive and laundry felt products, among other products.

“At Bondex, we are proud to deepen our roots in Edgefield County with this expansion,” said Bondex President Brian Little. “This investment is a testament to our team’s dedication to innovation and to the growing demand for our high-quality products. Our reputation in the area as a great place to work is something we take seriously, and we’re excited to continue building that legacy by creating new opportunities for growth and employment. We look forward to advancing both our capabilities and the local community as we grow in South Carolina.”

2024 Quarterly Issue IV

Cone Denim® Builds Solar Panel Installation in China

Cone Denim®, Greensboro, N.C., has inaugurated its first rooftop solar panel installation in Jiaxing, China. The action will generate 9 megawatt hours of electricity per year and reduce the plant’s annual greenhouse gas emissions by 17 percent, according to Cone, which is in line with the company’s 2030 sustainability goals.

“This project is a great accomplishment for Cone towards our sustain-ability efforts,”said Cone Denim Vice President of Manufacturing Brad Johnson.“The solar panel installation demonstrates our commitment to continued innovation across our manufacturing facilities and platforms to reduce greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions. This launch provides Cone Denim the opportunity to scale our efforts on clean energy and carbon reduction, all on-site in Jiaxing. By implementing this on our industrial site, we are preserving the natural landscape without requiring any additional surrounding land resources.”

2024 Quarterly Volume IV

The Brickle Group Adds Plying Operation, Buys Family Yarns

The Brickle Group, based in North Smithfield, R.I., and operating as Hyman Brickle and Son Inc., has acquired Family Yarns based in Etna, Maine. Brickle provides berets, blankets and other cold-weather gear to the U.S. Department of Defense in addition to providing industrial nonwovens, trading raw materials and recycling waste fiber. The purchase of Family Yarns, which specializes in coarser count yarns in a variety of fiber types, adds 1 million pounds of woolen spinning capacity to support the company’s yarn needs.
Brickle also recently opened a yarn plying operation in North Smithfield that offers 2-for-1 twisting up to 4-ply to cater to companies requiring specialized yarns.

“Our commitment to vertical integration and enhancing our value-added services continues with these investments,” said President Max Brickle. “We are excited about the opportunities that the Family Yarns acquisition and our new plying operation will bring to our clients and partners in the textile industry.”

2024 Quarterly Issue IV

Shawmut Establishes Shawmut Infinite, Acquires Fairystone

Shawmut Infinite, a newly created affiliate of Shawmut LLC, West Bridgewater, Mass., recently acquired warp knitter Fairystone Fabrics, Burlington, N.C. Shawmut Infinite plans to continue Fairystone’s contract knitting and warping service operation in Burlington retaining both the management team and 100-percent of the work-force. Over the next two years, Shawmut plans to invest $8 million to retrofit the facility with new, digitally controlled prototyping, knitting and warping technologies. The transaction was structured as a purchase of assets.

“The Fairystone acquisition marks the realization of Shawmut’s long-standing vision for operating a fully integrated textile and textile composite supply chain in North America, and for deploying new digital tools that enable big leaps for-ward in productivity and innovation,” said Shawmut CEO James Wyner. “It’s just one more way in which Shawmut is enhancing its position as a preferred global partner to automotive and industrial OEMs”.

2024 Quarterly Issue IV

Post-Election: Time To Make A Plan

By James M. Borneman, Editor In Chief

It is over. With the 2024 election in the books, the road is clear — or clearer — to chart a course into 2025 and beyond. Whether the candidate you supported won or lost, it is reassuring to know the election was held without any major disruptions; a definitive outcome was achieved with both the electoral college and popular vote — for the first time in a very long time — aligning; and all signals now pointing to a peaceful transition of the government.
The table is set for clarity and reduced risk in planning short-term, mid-term and long-term strategies — from raw material suppliers, manufacturers and retailers —through all sectors associated with today’s integrated supply chains.

Sure, there is always room for a political discussion, but with a known quantity — of either stripe — set to take charge for the next four years, strategic risks are reduced and there is an improved ability to anticipate the business climate affecting the industry.

For manufacturers, this may be a bright spot. The opinion that lower energy costs, a pro-U.S. manufacturing sentiment and improved emphasis on nearshoring may be in the cards is palpable.

Retailers and sectors that have chosen to rely on imports may need to reevaluate their positions. And suppliers of inputs, machinery and technology may need to shift gears to realign with changing industry forecasts.

It is an opportunity to reboot. Consider the level of certainty entering decision making, mitigating planning risk and — probably — a business-friendly environment for many.
There will undoubtedly be some dust-ups on the way, with tariff talk on the horizon, regulation and taxation front and center, and globalism’s effects under scrutiny.
However, this clearer environment coincides with a plethora of game-changing technologies maturing — think artificial intelligence (AI), machine learning and commercialized circularity.

This could in fact be the forefront of a new era of manufacturing boosted by the lessons learned during the pandemic, the awareness of supply chain vulnerabilities and the giant steps made in technology influencing all facets of daily life.

It is a time to be embraced — one of openness to opportunity and of acknowledgment of the persistence of technology to innovate and reinvent the future.

Of course, it is not all hearts and flowers. The realities of making manufacturing work in the current environment is not for the faint of heart. The promise of technology is not always easy to manifest and make an immediate impact, but the potential is there, and the test cases have shown positive results.

Will AI make your company more efficient, more responsive to the marketplace, and a better place to work for your employees? Will confidence in a firmer planning horizon make your ability to commit financial resources embolden a growth story for your company? Will the company have fresh eyes on the future and embrace opportunities with confidence?
As the nation enters 2025, there is no doubt that the environment has changed. Impacts on various sectors of the industry will differ and need adjustment.

Maybe — just maybe — the question won’t be to invest in new machines and technologies or not, but rather, to pay in cash or bitcoin!

2024 Quarterly Issue IV

 

Greybull Stewardship: Private Equity Investing In The Textile Space

Mason Myers

Mason Myers recently spoke to Textile World about investments in “pre-middle” market businesses and textile companies.

TW Special Report

Mason Myers is the founder and CEO of Jackson, Wyo.-based Greybull Stewardship, a private equity firm that focuses on investments in the “pre-middle”market. Myers defines this market as businesses with less than $5 million in profit.

Myers founded the business in 2010 with the goal of supporting these pre-middle market business owners and entrepreneurs to strengthen and scale their companies.“I’ve been involved in small businesses since my twenties,” Myers noted. “As a former small business owner myself, I see tremendous opportunity in this space to help these high potential businesses become stronger, bigger and better.”

Myers’ first business was an early Internet company he founded with a friend. The company eventually merged with another company and obtained $20 million in venture financing before going public. “We were acquiring smaller companies and, in doing so, discovered the abundance of overlooked, solid businesses that are too small for larger private equity firms,” Myers said. “The traditional venture capital model was not a good fit for their needs. I really love small businesses — I have lived the experiences, challenges and opportunities of these companies. It is so fun to support them because you can see the direct impact you’re having on the customers and employees by improving the businesses and helping them create tremendous value.”

Myers recently shared some insights on his investment strategies and recent textile industry investments with Textile World.

TW: What makes a company attractive as an investment? What parameters attract you?

Myers: The most important factor we look for in companies is an attractive business model and the potential to grow and become a solid larger company — whether their business has strong bones. That strong foundation and opportunity for scale are what Greybull is here to support. To us, an attractive business model is recurring or highly repeating revenue, has attractive margins and a business that can scale without requiring a lot of additional capital for working capital or capital expenditures.

Our team is comprised of many functional experts who came from these types of businesses and have grown their own. They have the firsthand experience to help founders who may have never done something like this before.

For us, it’s about the people. First and foremost, we strive to build relationships with the owners and leaders of these companies, work with them to understand their visions and then collaborate and leverage our expertise to execute on that with their partnership.

TW: What drew you to explore textiles?

Myers: The textile industry is poised for major growth in the next few years, and we see exciting investment opportunities in the space. Issues of supply chain efficiency, manufacturing, sustainability and technological innovation continue to be top-of-mind for the industry.

The demand for innovation and push for a greener future creates opportunities for unique companies to fill whitespace and offer differentiated solutions. We have identified some small businesses with nuanced capabilities and forward-looking visions that focus on addressing customer needs. We’re keeping an eye on numerous developments in the space as the industry continues to evolve.

Our current investments in the space — Clothes Bin, Green Earth Cleaning and Reclaimed Textiles — have great potential for expansion in the industry. Through our partnerships with these companies, we get to tap into this dynamic market and be a part of the ongoing innovation.

Clothes Bin places bins in convenient locations, such as outside schools, to allow for easier, more accessible recycling of clothes, shoes and textiles in local communities.

TW: What textile-related investments has Greybull pursued?

Myers: Greybull first entered the textiles space in 2021 with our investment in Clothes Bin, a U.S.-based textile recycling franchisor that helps people conveniently recycle their clothes, shoes and textiles to make it easier to keep these materials out of landfills. Local franchises place bins at schools and other accessible locations and manage the collection of the items to recycle.

We acquired Green Earth Cleaning in 2022, a company that provides environmentally friendly solvent to dry cleaners around the world. The industry is moving away from petroleum-based solvents because Green Earth works better and is better for the environment.

We acquired Reclaimed Textiles Co. in 2023. Reclaimed Textiles repurposes a range of textile products to give them new life, promote sustainability and help address unique, evolving needs in the industry.

TW: As an investor, how do you see your role?

Myers: I see Greybull’s role as supporting the smaller pre-middle market business owners and founders to help their companies reach their maximum potentials. We have a long history of demonstrated success in this space — we know how to create value and avoid potential pitfalls. Our goal is to partner with business leaders to fully understand their operations, business practices and strategies to help them further strengthen their businesses and have a greater impact. Aligning with their visions enables us to effectively identify how we can best support and scale their businesses while maintaining their visions and core missions.

We have functional expertise in accounting, finance, strategy, technology, sales, marketing, planning, operations and more so that we can lend and apply our knowledge. Our involvement is also about the emotional investment of empowering owners, so they feel confident to work alongside us and take their businesses to the next level.

TW: How does Greybull’s pre-middle market investment strategy differ from more traditional private equity models, and why is this focus particularly valuable in the textiles and recycling sectors?

Myers: Our pre-middle market investing strategy focuses on smaller, growing businesses where we believe our team’s operational expertise and resources can have the greatest impact and value-add.

We use pre-middle market to mean businesses with revenues of $5 to $50 million and profits of less than $5 million — a segment of the market that is often overlooked and underserviced by traditional private equity. We see enormous value in this space, and there are many companies that fall in this category and do not have any capital focused on supporting them. This is the need that Greybull is stepping in to fill; we partner with these companies and help them grow and scale to the middle market.

For textiles specifically, we see particular opportunity to have a distinct impact. The pre-middle market includes companies that significantly benefit from operational, strategic, and financial guidance. We are able to make a noticeable impact in an industry that is evolving to be more green-focused.

With our expertise in textile recycling combined with our functional experts that know how to assist and support businesses of this size, we are the perfect partner for a company in this space that has potential to get to the next level.

TW: When do you enter and when do you exit an investment? What is the strategy to achieve an exit?

Myers: We enter when the company matches our investment criteria — revenues of $5 to $25 million, profit under $5 million — and has a proven and high-potential model with a clear opportunity to add value through operational improvements and capital injection. The business must show promising growth prospects with a need for our niche support capabilities.

While private equity investments typically have hold periods of around four years, the Greybull model is built around the idea that longer investments can create greater scale and position businesses to sustain growth in the long term. Our average hold period is approximately eight years, and we have held companies for up to 11 years. We see tremendous value in enabling these businesses to develop practices at a pace that will help them thrive long after our investment ends. An ownership change can be disruptive to the customers and employees, so we prefer a model where we provide stability over a long time horizon so that the company can focus on creating value in the business. We want to avoid unnecessary disruption wherever possible.

Most often, we will consider an exit when the management recommends that we do so. We do not like to bring arbitrary timelines and constraints to our companies, and we prefer to hold and allow the value creation to compound. We do not have a requirement to exit on any certain time-frame, and so we are motivated to focus on what is best for the business.

TW: With the textile recycling market expected to grow significantly by 2028, how do you see private equity playing a role in driving innovation and expansion in this space?

Myers: For every company, there comes a time when the opportunity is so big or attractive that the company needs additional expertise and capital to achieve its potential.That is where we step in.This is likely to happen more and more in the textile recycling market, and we will be there to support good companies with potential who want a collaborative partner along-side them as they pursue their maximum potential.

Although different from Greybull’s strategy, traditional private equity will also be there for businesses who want help with a quick flip of their company in three to five years.

Depending on the company, that strategy can be the right fit.

After people make donations, local franchises manage the collection of items to recycle, ensuring that materials are kept out of landfills and providing a source of clothes and shoes in the United States.

TW: Can you elaborate on Greybull’s long-term partnership with Clothes Bin?

Myers: To have a sustainable environmental impact, it is important to have strong systems and a sustainable business model. Clothes Bin was an excellent business for both the franchises in the system and the franchisor. We were able to make it even better and help them build the systems to scale the business, which makes the entire system and every franchise stronger.

As Clothes Bin becomes larger, it is easier for the franchises and the company overall to partner with cities and states to have even more environmental impact. These entities want to help keep materials out of landfills and it is easier for them to engage with a larger company like Clothes Bin. In this way, Clothes Bin is able to impact environmental policy and more.

TW: What lessons from your work with Clothes Bin could apply to other growing businesses in the textile space?

Myers: We have experience growing textile businesses of this size and the specific knowledge of textile recycling and other environmentally friendly efforts and industries that can all help a growing good business with potential in this market.

One lesson is to work on the infrastructure of your business before you want to scale. Important factors of that include accounting, technology and people, all of which enable businesses to handle significant growth and size. You cannot shortcut that process. It has to be done well before you can scale, or you are asking for difficulty down the road.
Another lesson is to be constantly looking to improve efficiency in your systems and processes to make the business model better and more sustainable. This is critical not just for the environment, but also for the long-term growth of the business.

To scale beyond a certain size also requires focus and trade-off decisions. What got your company to one level will not be what gets your company to the next level. In the entrepreneurial phase of developing a business, it is important to consider every opportunity and be constantly on the look-out for the best opportunity. In the scaling phase, it becomes important to focus on only a few opportunities in the optimal sequence and focus on internal execution and systems. This is often a different skill than the entrepreneurial phase and achieving this transition through different phases is critical.

TW: What is your opinion of the U.S. textile industry?

Myers: It’s a highly fragmented industry between traditional manufacturing and a growing segment of textile recycling organizations that are evolving to adopt more modern and sustainable practices. Consumer preferences are beginning to lean toward more sustain-able operations and companies are finding ways to prioritize waste reduction.
We are optimistic on the U.S. textile industry’s continued growth and expansion and anticipate further innovation in the space.

2024 Quarterly Issue IV

ITMF 2024 Conference: Uzbekistan Showcases Modern Textile Investment

Approximately 400 delegates from
40 countries gathered in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, for three days of discussions and presentations covering a broad array of textile topics.

Themed “Innovation, Cooperation, and Regulation — Driving Forces of the Textile and Apparel Industry” the ITMF’s recent annual conference was hosted in partnership with the International Apparel Federation (IAF) in Samarkand, Uzbekistan.

By James M. Borneman, Editor In Chief

The Zurich-based International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) recently held its annual conference in conjunction with The International Apparel Federation (IAF) World Fashion Convention in Samarkand, Uzbekistan.
The three-day event included discussions and presentations covering a broad array of topics affecting the future of the global textile supply chain.

“The conference convened with 400 delegates for three days with 40 presentations by as many industry experts,” noted Dr. Christian Schindler, ITMF director general. “Participants came to Samarkand from 40 countries from around the globe. The general theme of the conference, ‘Innovation, Cooperation & Regulation — Drivers of the Textile & Apparel Industry,’ served as a framework for presentations covering a broad tapestry of important issues facing global textile manufacturing.”

Strong Presentations

The opening day of sessions took a deep dive into global issues facing cotton and man-made fibers.

The Cotton Fiber session, moderated by Muhammad Anees Khawaja, of Pakistan-based Mahmood Group featured presentations by Uday Gill, Indorama Corp.; Nezihi Aslankeser, Cotton Council International; Rama Janarthanan, Arise; Terry Townsend, Cotton Analytics; and Corin Wood-Jones, Better Cotton.

The Man-Made session, moderated by Stefan Hutter, of Singapore-based Saentis Textiles featured presentations by Alexei Sinitsa, Wood Mackenzie; Nezihi Aslankeser, Cotton Council International; Jay Sardana, Reliance; and Florian Heubrandner, Lenzing. An interesting take-away was the realization of how far Uzbekistan has come with cotton cultivation and textile manufacturing, as well as the need to develop the man-made fiber component of Uzbek textile production to continue a growth trajectory in the industry.

The first day of the conference concluded with a session titled “Audit Fatigue — Progress Made & Way Forward” that addressed the challenges associated with international compliance. Anne Sutanto of Indonesia-based Pan Brothers moderated the panel featuring Janet Mensink, SLCP; Michael Cai, Décor; and Nate Herman, American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA).

Setting The Stage

Day two of “Innovation, Cooperation, and Regulation” opened with a keynote address by Uzbekistan Deputy Prime Minister Jamshid Khodjaev.

Khodjaev’s focus was the positive effect of moving past the cotton boycott that Uzbekistan had faced in recent years and embracing Better Work and Better Cotton Initiatives.

(left to right): Republic of Uzbekistan Chamber of Commerce and Industry Chairman Davron Vakhabov, Governor of Samarkand Region Erkinjo Turdimov, International Apparel Federation (IAF) President Cem Altan, Uzbekistan Deputy Prime Minister Jamshid Khodjaev, International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) President K. V. Srinivasan and Uzbek Textile & Apparel Industry Association (UZTS) Acting President Mirmukhsin Sultanov.

Moving Beyond The Boycott

As a matter of context, the meeting occurred in the Uzbekistan post-cotton-ban-era. This global boycott of Uzbek cotton, a time also known as the Cotton Pledge, was initiated in 2010 by the Cotton Campaign. At the heart of the matter was child labor, a State-Run system of forced labor as well as human rights violations. During the ban, more than 330 companies, including brands like Gap and C&A, pledged not to use Uzbek cotton. Cot-ton was a significant export for Uzbekistan, and the boycott significantly negatively impacted exports. The boycott lasted 11 years, from 2010 to 2022.

According to sources, following President Shavkat Mirziyoyev’s rise to power in 2016, Uzbekistan implemented significant reforms to address forced labor.

With campaigns by The World Bank and International Labor Organization, by 2021 it was determined by independent monitors that systemic forced labor had been effectively eliminated from the cotton harvest in Uzbekistan. In March 2022, the Cotton Campaign officially ended the boycott, allowing companies to reengage with the Uzbek cotton sector. Some of the major effects of the reforms were privatization and a transformation in cotton textiles from simply producing raw cotton for export to the domestic creation of higher value textile products.

By 2022, 100 percent of the cotton grown in Uzbekistan was further processed domestically — and the country no longer exported raw cotton. Textile product exports, on the other hand, rose from hundreds of millions of dollars during the ban to $3.2 billion dollars in 2022.

Wages grew within the industry, foreign investors showed interest, and the shift into manufacturing/processing cotton created new jobs.

Uzbekistan’s focus turned to the 130 newly established private cotton clusters embracing quality control, innovation and establishing inroads throughout the textile value chain.
Embracing the latest technologies as well as practices regarding sustainability and traceability are key elements in rebuilding Uzbekistan’s reputation from its tarnished past. These ideas were center stage in Deputy Prime Minister Khodjaev’s presentation.

An International Welcome

Uzbek Textile & Apparel Industry Association (UZTS) Chairman Mirmukhsin Sultanov, ITMF president K. V. Srinivasan and IAF President Cem Altan welcomed delegates and dignitaries from around the globe to the 2024 event.

Major sessions included presentations regarding:

• Textile & Apparel Industry in Uzbekistan;
• Sustainability & Regulation;
• Digitalization;
• Artificial Intelligence in the Textile Value Chain; and
• Collaboration

The first session titled, “Textile & Apparel Industry in Uzbekistan” was moderated by Aziz Akhrarov of Uzbekistan-based Samarkand Apparel and featured presentations by Kihak Sung, Youngone; Abu Yousuf, Better Work; Karim Shafei, Gherzi; Muzaffar Razakov, Global Textile; and Mirmukhsin Sultanov, UZTS. This session was a showcase of the host country’s textile transformation and vision for a textile focused future.

The “Sustainability & Regulation” session, moderated by Mustafa Denizer of Turkey-based Diktas, featured presentations by Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX; Kenichi Tomiyoshi, JTF; Yan Yan, CNTAC; and Steve Lamar, American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA). The session drove home the point that there is a burgeoning regulatory environment brewing in Europe; Environmental, Social and Corporate Governance (ESG) compliance continues as a hot button issue globally; and regarding the United States, exporters need to keep an eye on state as well as federal regulations. The THREADS Fashion Protocol also was discussed in the context of creating harmonized regulations.

The “Digitalization” session, moderated by Stefano Festa Marzotto of Italy-based Miles Manifattura, featured presentations by Nate Herman, AAFA; and Christian Lott, DMIx. Herman highlighted the need for the adoption of digital garment labeling, while Lott presented the DMIx SamplR — an intriguing technology that “creates precise digital replicas of flat physical materials.” Lott also hammered home the need to pay attention to the coming regulations of the Digital Product Passport (DPP), offering a stern warning that those who are not in compliance could find themselves “out-of-business” in Europe.

The “Artificial Intelligence in the Textile Value Chain” session, moderated by Rafael Cervone of Brazil-based ABIT, featured presentations by Thomas Gries, ITA Group; and Povilas Sugintas, Euromonitor.

The final day of the conference opened with a session titled “Collaboration.” Fazlee Shamim Ehsan of Bangladesh-based Fatullah Apparel moderated a panel featuring Felix Poza Peña, Inditex; Akila Fernando, Epic Group; and Femi Akinrebiyo, International Finance Corporation (IFC) —the financial arm of the World Bank.

The speakers highlighted how companies were working together to affect a range of issues from micro-plastic pollution to climate change and the complexity of the supply chain. IFC’s Akinrebiyo explained that the IFC was less of a bank and more of a development partner focused on waste reduction opportunities in the textile value chain.

Showcasing Innovation

The ITMF Startup Awards honored companies breaking new ground in textiles.
Tae Jin Kang of Seoul National University, Korea, moderated the first panel which featured the following innovations:

  • Bylon — scalable, melt-spun fibers without oil or waste developed by Sci-Lume Labs, Oklahoma City, Okla.;
  • SYCORE-TEX — materials of topological softgel for ultra-thermal insulation from China-based Sycoretec CAS;
  • RE&UP — scalable recycling technologies for high-performance fibers developed by RE&UP Recycling Technologies, the Netherlands; and
  • Syre — hyperscale textile-to-textile recycling from Syre Impact, Sweden.

Juan Pares of Spain-based Textil Santanderina presented the winners of the ITMF Innovation & Sustain-ability Award 2024, which were:

  • High-Technique Fiber Co., China, for low-carbon & sustainable innovation in PET fiber industry;
  • HeiQ AeoniQ, Switzerland, for Hyperscaling HeiQ AeoniQ; and
  • Samsara Eco, Australia, for Infinite plastic recycling — a solution for end-of-life textiles.

International Cooperation

Winners of the ITMF International Cooperation Award 2024 included:

• Next generation cellulosic filaments from hemp — DITF, Germany & RBX Creations, France; and
• Open lab — HKRITA, Hong Kong, China.

Scratching The Surface

Although every presentation deserved to be highlighted, the quality of the work was difficult to present in such an abridged fashion. However, the presentations were catalysts for further discussions, networking, and in-depth analysis.

“The presentations provided the participants with relevant insights thus assisting them to better assess the current and especially the future business environment,” said Dr. Schindler. “It was important to see how regulation will shape the evolution of the textile value chain around the world. Likewise, to see all the innovation presented in the session about the various ITMF Awards Winners 2024 was impressive — recycling, circularity, sustainability are important forces driving innovation and collaboration.”

Jamshid Ismatullaev, owner and CEO of Chust Textile, Uzbekistan, presented his com-pany’s accomplishments during the conference. Chust opened in 2007 as a small work-shop employing 50 people. Pictured is its GULZOR dyeing facility established in 2019.

Understanding Uzbekistan

Muzaffar Razakov, CEO of Uzbekistan-based Global Textile presented “From tradition to innovation — how Uzbekistan is expanding its textile horizons” in the first session — a fitting topic for Global Textile. According to the company, Global Textile has been at the forefront of Uzbekistan’s textile transformation and development of the cotton “cluster” model.

This model integrates the production value chain from cotton field through finished products.

Global Textile is a fully integrated textile company managing the entire production cycle from cotton cultivation to garment manufacturing. Global cultivates 12,960 hectares of cotton fields, primarily in Uzbekistan’s Fergana region, producing 160,000 metric tons of cotton annually.

It spins 47,000 metric tons of yarn, processes 21,000 metric tons of fabric in its knitting facilities, and dyes 10,000 metric tons of fabric each year.

Global also has garment manufacturing capacity that produces 3 million items annually
According to Razakov: “Uzbekistan’s textile industry has seen remarkable growth, driven by reforms aimed at creating a competitive, investor-friendly environment. Global Textile has capitalized on these reforms, adopting value-added production processes that meet inter-national standards and facilitating expansion into new global markets.

“The government’s support through tax incentives, financing programs, and modernization subsidies has allowed companies like Global Textile to embrace cutting-edge technologies, particularly in sustainability, he added. “Our company has benefited from export support and modernization assistance, making us more competitive on the global market.”

Regarding Uzbekistan’s selection as the host for the ITMF IAF Joint Conference Razakov commented, “This is a significant milestone for Uzbekistan, demonstrating that the global textile community once again trusts our industry.

“The conference provides a platform for Uzbekistan to showcase its achievements and potential to an international audience, further strengthening its role in the global textile landscape.”

Forward To Yogyakarta, Indonesia

“The ITMF & IAF Conference 2024 in Samarkand showcased in an impressive manner how much the Uzbekistan’s cotton, textile and apparel industry was transformed since the start of the reform policy initiated in 2017 by President Mirziyoyev,” Dr. Schindler noted. “A state-monopoly that focused on exporting most of the cotton was transformed to a market-driven private economy that is adding value by producing yarns, fabrics, garments, and home textiles.”

As the event closed, Dr. Schindler acknowledged the extraordinary hospitality that was extended to the conference participants by the host associations, the Uzbek Textile and Apparel Industry Association and the Chamber of Commerce and industry in Uzbekistan.
“In completing a successful ITMF & IAF Conference 2024, the ITMF and IAF have decided to jointly hold their events also in 2025 which will be hosted by the Indonesian Textile and Apparel Industry Association (API) in the city of Yogyakarta from October 23-25, 2025,” Dr. Schindler shared at the end of the conference.

“We are very much looking for-ward to gathering in Indonesia in October 2025 back-to-back with ITMA+CITME Asia 2025 in Singapore October 28 through 31, 2025.”

2024 Quarterly Issue IV

 

Connecting The Technical Textiles Industry: Highlights From TTNA 2024

Raleigh, N.C., provided the backdrop for networking and learning at the recent TTNA trade show.

TW Special Report

The technical textiles industry recently convened in Raleigh for the 2024 edition of Techtextil North America (TTNA). The event, held at the Raleigh Convention Center, was the first trade show after the summer lull, and it seemed participants were glad to see old friends, network and make new connections.

The event, organized by Atlanta-based Messe Frankfurt Inc., runs in opposite years to the North American flagship Techtextil show held in Atlanta every two years. As such, Raleigh was a smaller show, but just as worthwhile.

“Back in Raleigh after two editions, Techtextil North America 2024 was a great success,” stated Kristy Meade, vice president, Technical Shows, Messe Frankfurt. “We were thrilled to return to the heart of the textile industry, exceeding expectations in exhibitor support and overwhelming visitor satisfaction. Techtextil North America continues to be the platform for product solutions, industry advancements and networking.”

The show was filled with the buzz of symposium sessions, Tech Talks on the show floor, a student poster program, as well as the bustling exhibit floor. In conjunction with the 125th anniversary of the Raleigh-based Wilson College of Textiles at NC State University, the show floor featured the “History of Textiles Museum,” showcase. The exhibits comprised early technology and artifacts through modern innovations and textile creations to illustrate the historical beginnings and possible future inventions.

The “Alphabet Soup Collective” — composed of 11 industry organizations who recently opened discussions as a group to find ways to better serve the industry — also hosted an evening shindig open to all TTNA attendees who bought a ticket (See “Textile World News: Textile Associations Join Together For The Benefit Of Industry; Host Inaugural “Alphabet Soup” Shindig During Techtextil North America 2024,” TW, this issue).

Attendee Feedback

Attendee Steve Zawislak Engineering director, Norfab & Amatex, Davlyn Group companies both based in Norristown, Pa., thought Techtextil North America 2024 was a worthwhile endeavor. “Techtextil, over the years, has always been a show to connect on a personal level with current, former, and potential suppliers and customers,” Zawislak reported. “The most recent show in Raleigh lived up to that standard in a big way. Traveling with a sales colleague, we were consumed with meetings, planned and impromptu, for the two days we had scheduled to walk at the show. Many of the meetings were impactful on the success of our business. We plan to make the show an annual event on our calendar. I really enjoy seeing old friends and making new ones amongst the best minds in the textile industry.”

Future Events

Messe Frankfurt is busy planning the collocated Techtextil North America 2025 and Texprocess Americas 2025 events that will take place in Atlanta May 6-8, 2025, at the Georgia World Congress Center. Exhibitors are booking booth space and in a few short months, visitor registration will begin.

“Techtextil North America 2025 will once again be collocated with Texprocess Americas, the event for Equipment and Technology for the Development, Sourcing, and Production of Sewn Products,” Meade said. “The collocation creates an unmatched opportunity for attendees to experience the full production and sourcing pipeline under one roof. With new features on the show floor, cutting-edge technology on display, forward-thinking education sessions, and a powerhouse lineup of industry experts we are confident and excited to address the current challenges, deliver solutions and set the stage for the future of our industry.”

2024 Quarterly Issue IV

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