United States Trade Representative (USTR) Ambassador Katherine Tai recently visited Milliken & Company and American & Efird (A&E) on a tour organized by the Washington-based National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO). Ambassador Tai first toured Milliken’s Magnolia plant in Blacksburg, S.C., then participated in a round table discussing the role women play in the textile industry, the critical need for domestic supply chain policies in Washington, and the contributions of the textile industry to the overall U.S. economy. At A&E’s plant in Mount Holly, N.C., Ambassador Tai followed up a tour by participating in a round table with textile executives from the fiber, yarn, fabric and finished products sectors of the industry. Discussion topics included the competitiveness of the U.S. industry, priority issues in Washington, and ways to support the domestic industry with Berry Amendment and Buy American policies.
“Milliken is honored to host Ambassador Tai at our Magnolia plant to discuss not only the invaluable contributions we make every day to our community and our nation, but also the
importance of sound trade policies that bolster domestic production and the co-production chains we have built, in particular with our Western Hemisphere trading partners,” said Chad McAllister, executive vice president of Milliken & Company and president, Textile Business.
“It was an honor hosting Ambassador Tai at our manufacturing facility in Mount Holly, employing 380 valued associates and just 2 miles from where the company started 130 years ago,” said Sim Skinner, CEO of Elevate Textiles, A&E’s parent company. “We had an engaging discussion with the Ambassador on our company’s and industry’s innovation and competitiveness, and on the policy priorities that we believe will help ensure our competitiveness and long-term investment in the domestic textile industry.”
“As United States Trade Representative, I am committed to helping all of your companies build on the success by finding market opportunities and helping reach new customers,” said Ambassador Tai. “I want to ensure that our trade policy matches the innovation and changes happening in the textiles industry. With your help, we can continue addressing critical issues. In doing so, we will help the textiles industry maintain its competitive edge and ensure it remains a global standard-bearer in the years to come.”
Glen Raven Inc., Glen Raven, N.C., has announced plans to expand its custom fabrics division in Anderson County, S.C. The $70 million investment will add a distribution facility to the company’s existing operation along with new equipment and processes to improve overall efficiency and capacity. In addition, the expansion includes enhancements to the location’s Sunbrella manufacturing assets with new finishing capacity, material flow technology, and inspection and sampling upgrades. All upgrades are expected to be operational by early 2023. All told, the investment will create 135 new jobs.
The cost of site preparation and building construction will be defrayed by a $400,000 Set-Aside grant to Anderson County from the Coordinating Council for Economic Development.
“We’ve been a proud part of the Anderson County community since 1986, and over the decades, dedicated and skilled South Carolinians have been critical to our growth,” said Leib Oehmig, Glen Raven CEO. “We are thrilled to expand on our great partnership and look forward to creating more growth for our company and the community, together.”
“New jobs and investments are important to a strong and healthy economy,” said South Carolina Governor Henry McMaster. “We appreciate Glen Raven Inc.’s commitment to Anderson County and the state of South Carolina, and we look forward to their continued growth.”
Automotive flooring, acoustical and fiber-based solutions company Auria, Columbia, S.C., announced it will invest more than $12.4 million to grow its operation. The expansion, which will take place incrementally over the next two years, will create 103 jobs.
“We are proud to be able to grow our business and build on our future at the Spartanburg plant,” said Auria Vice President of Operations Mike Van Booven. “We know we can continue to count on Spartanburg’s talented, dedicated workforce to help us deliver best-in-class automotive products to our customers.”
“This announcement is a terrific win for the Upstate … we congratulate Auria on their expansion in Spartanburg County,” said South Carolina Secretary of Commerce Harry M. Lightsey III. “This announcement is further proof that South Carolina is an ideal location for businesses to grow and thrive.”
Markets in general are about people — and more importantly the emotions and fear they choose to act on.
Whether it is stocks, gasoline, the latest Xbox or toilet paper, consumers currently are moving markets by sharply increasing demand and, in some cases, well beyond the capacity of supply chains to replenish the surge.
The supply chain for textiles has suffered as well, not just imports of apparel but also goods and inputs throughout the supply chain.
A new surge appears to be happening today regarding Christmas shopping. More and more people — consumers and press — seem to be chatting-up fears of shortages
in a range of goods from appliances to apparel.
According to the monthly Global Port Tracker report recently released by the National Retail Federation and Hackett Associates, “Imports at the nation’s largest retail container ports should remain at near-record levels this month but could see a slight dip from last year’s unusually high numbers as congestion slows the movement of backed-up cargo.”
There may be shortages, but retailers want to maximize sales and have taken
steps to do so in this challenging market.
In a recent Barron’s article by Jack Hough titled, “Why Global Shortages Won’t Ruin the Holidays,” he reported: “’Many of our savvy retailers and importers advanced their orders,’ says Gene Seroka, executive director of the Port of Los Angeles. ‘We started seeing Christmas goods arrive on our shores back in June of this year. Normally, that arrival would take place at the end of August, beginning of September.’”
Hough goes on to explain: “Trans-Pacific shipments are up some 30% this year,
which has worsened a shortage of 40-foot shipping containers. The cost to send one
of them from Shanghai to Los Angeles has jumped to nearly $20,000 from $2,000 in a year and a half.”
Regarding port bottlenecks, Hough noted: “Under normal circumstances, the ideal number of ships to drop anchor outside of California’s San Pedro Bay Ports Complex, which consists of the busy ports of Los Angeles and Long Beach, is zero. Among the 88 vessels recently waiting to dock, 64 are carrying containers, with about half of these headed for each port. Port productivity is up, Seroka says, but truckers and warehouses haven’t added as much capacity as shippers, so unloaded containers are sitting at the port for six days rather than two, and at warehouse doors for seven or eight days versus three or four.
“The ship jam will not be cleared by Christmas, Seroka says.
“’There will be goods on the store shelves, in the fulfillment centers, for us to order,’ [Seroka] says. ‘My only advice is maybe for the American consumer, like I’m doing, to shop a little early.’”
And in textiles, unfortunately shipping is not the only bottleneck. COVID-19 has taken supply and manufacturing off-line. COVID-19 has also shifted consumer demand from
services to manufactured goods — again pressuring the supply chain.
But in textiles, as in most industries, labor is on everyone’s mind. As generous unemployment benefits expire, many wonder if the incentive to participate in the labor force will rise. The participation rate has been steady at 61.7 percent versus the pre-pandemic rate of 63.3 percent. Jobless claims are down after rising in September.
According to Robert Reichard’s “Textile Activity At A Glance,” in this issue, textile mill, textile product mill and apparel employment has improved year-over-year, but will U.S. textiles see labor improvements? Only time will tell.
The need for source-to-consumer product traceability has been featured multiple times in these pages, dating back more than a decade. Public focus on traceability began as a result of contaminated food. As the frequency and variety of contaminated or faulty products increased over time — ranging from toys laden with lead paint to cell phones that spontaneously burst into flames — consumers began to demand a more rigorous accounting of what their products were made of and from where each component originated. Further, consumers wanted to ensure product claims and labeling were correct. In textile products, for example, class action lawsuits have been filed over the past few years against major retailers for misrepresenting the sheets and bedroom accessories items they were selling. One lawsuit alleged the thread count of sheets was substantially below what was stated on the packaging. Another claimed that sheets sold as 100-percent Egyptian cotton contained only 16 percent of the fiber.
One company, Applied DNA Sciences, has developed a platform — CertainT® — that helps companies assure their customers of the veracity of all product claims. CertainT uses molecular taggant technology to create fully traceable textile supply chains. It was reported earlier this year, for example, that CertainT was the choice for American & Efird when it wanted to introduce a new recycled sewing thread and guarantee its authenticity to customers.
In late September, Applied DNA Sciences reported it received purchase orders from an unnamed textile customer totaling $1.6 million to supply molecular taggant to tag textile fibers.
CertainT’s molecular taggant serves as a unique identifier that can be tested for its presence as the tagged material travels throughout virtually any global supply chain.
Spun Yarn And Global Fibers Market Projected To Grow
The global market for spun yarn, which was estimated at 52 million tons in 2020, is expected to grow to 59.3 million tons by 2026, according to a new report by research firm Global Industry Analysts, Inc. The overall CAGR is projected at 2 percent over the analysis period. CAGR for cotton is projected to be 1.9 percent and reach a total 34.8 million tons. The polyester segment is estimated to have a 2.5 percent CAGR for the period.
The research firm also projects the global market for all textile fibers, estimated at 109.5 million tons in the year 2020, is projected to reach 125.1 million tons by 2026, growing at a CAGR of 2.2 percent over the analysis period. The company also projects the textile fibers market in the United States to be 30.2 million tons for 2021.
New Microfiber Eliminates Recontamination Risk
Skokie,. Ill.-based UMF Corp. has developed a new hospital-grade microfiber that can be converted into a wide range of long-lasting, reusable products, including towels, cubicle curtains, socks, gloves, walk-off mats, reusable N95-rated face masks and color-coded microfiber cleaning products. Manufacturers are using these high-performance Micrillon® microfiber yarns to develop a new standard for materials targeting infection prevention in hospitals, hotels, cruise lines, long term care and many other industries.
“The introduction of Micrillon microfiber puts an end, once and for all, to any question about recontamination related to reusable products,” said UMF Corp. CEO George Clarke. “Some manufacturers and distributors of disposable products — including cubicle curtains, microfiber mops, and wipers — have generated controversy around the risk of reusable products, such as microfiber wipers, recontaminating a patient room, even after being laundered.” This ignores “the fact that after laundering, wipers used in hospitals are immersed in an EPA-registered disinfectant before use — effectively killing bacteria and inactivating viruses.”
Micrillon is a rechargeable polymer additive that can be incorporated into man-made fibers, films, and plastics and then charged with chlorine molecules. The Micrillon chemistry recharges for the life of the product and will not leach into the environment. When microbes come into contact with a Micrillon surface, they are eliminated, and viruses are inactivated.
Music City Center will host the 100th IFAI Expo this November.
Under the theme “Reconnect With Your Industry,” IFAI Expo returns to an in-person show for its 100th anniversary.
TW Special Report
The Roseville, Minn.-based Industrial Fabrics Association International’s (IFAI’s) IFAI Expo and Advanced Textiles Conference return to Nashville, Tenn., November 1-4, 2021, at the Music City Center convention center.
The year 2021 marks the 100th anniversary for the expo and it’s a milestone the association is eager to share with the industry. IFAI expects thousands of stakeholders across the industry for four days of sourcing, education, and long-awaited social interaction. The goal of the Expo is to “Source new products and materials on the show floor, make new connections at various networking events and reconnect with your industry after a year of isolation,” according to the organizers.
“We are very excited to be back in-person,” said Steve Schiffman, IFAI president and CEO. “The 100th anniversary of IFAI Expo 2021 will be held in Nashville, November 2-4, 2021, once again, bringing together the industry for the premier specialty textiles event in the U.S. We’ve put together a busy week packed with numerous opportunities to form meaningful connections, learn from the industry’s top experts, and have fun in a town that is world renowned for entertainment.”
Expectations
The show floor is expected to feature more than 220 exhibitors and the expo will offer multiple classroom and campfire education sessions segmented by market. The organizers have focused on creating a safe environment to “make new connections that last long after the event.”
Advanced Textiles Conference
The Advanced Textiles Conference at IFAI Expo 2021 features three days of advanced textiles (AT) education sessions focusing on multiple important topics across the AT landscape. According to the organizers the conference kicks off Monday, November 1, with morning sessions happening also November 2 and 3.
The goal of the AT Conference is to help industry members stay informed on the latest products, technology and applications developing in the AT industry. An All Access Registration pass is required to attend. Registered attendees can choose from 18 unique, 50-minute-long classroom sessions and an opening plenary presentation. According to IFAI, the education tracks include Innovations in e-Textiles, Sustainability, Medical Textile Breakthroughs, Industry 4.0, and PPE and the Supply Chain in the Wake of COVID-19.
In addition to the AT conference sessions, the All Access Registration includes the AT welcome lunch and closing reception on November 1, as well as the three days of show floor access; more than 28 hours of industry classroom education; show floor education, opening reception, keynote speakers and awards breakfast that is included with the Expo Plus registration. A basic show floor only registration option also is available. Attendees also may choose to add à-la-carte activities for an additional fee including the Industry Night event, Fabric Structures Summit (see below), Fun Run and Networking and Awards Breakfast.
As always, IFAI has enlisted an engaging keynote speaker. All attendees will be able to hear Steve Rizzo address the audience on Tuesday morning before the show floor opens. Rizzo is a Hall of Fame speaker and former national headline comedian.
New Expo Offerings
IFAI has added two new features at IFAI Expo — a Fabric Structures Summit and the Show Floor Innovation Stage. The summit occupies half of the last day of the show with a “State of the Industry” panel focused on fabric structures in architecture, and an hour of round table discussions dealing with critical industry issues. The summit will close with a networking reception.
On the final day of the expo, the Show Floor Innovation Stage will feature “a curated selection of IFAI partners presenting their latest and greatest onstage.” Company showcases, innovative products and services, case studies, and more, will be highlighted.
Safety Protocols
IFAI reports that according to a Freeman Attendee Exhibitor survey from August 2021, more than 80-percent of IFAI Expo attendees are vaccinated. Organizers also have numerous safety mitigation protocols in place, and IFAI Expo is to be held at a Global Biorisk Advisory Council
(GBAC)-certified facility. “We are confident that attendees and exhibitors can attend IFAI Expo and feel safe,” Schiffman said. For more information about our safety mitigation plan, please visit IFAIExpo.com.
“People are ready to ‘get back to business’ and we are happy to provide that in-person venue to do that,” Schiffman noted. “We look forward to hosting you at IFAI Expo 2021 in Nashville!”
For more information about IFAI Expo 2021 and details on the safety mitigation plan, please visit ifaiexpo.com
By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor; and Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor
Aside from attendees trying to figure out whether they should shake hands, fist bump, elbow bump or “other” when greeting colleagues, and despite the mask mandate putting off a few attendees, the 2021 Techtextil North America show held recently in Raleigh, N.C., met or exceeded expectations for visitors and exhibitors alike. Many of the exhibitors Textile World spoke to had initial trepidations on how this year’s show would play out, however most offered very positive reviews.
“We really didn’t know what to expect, but the show has been good for us, busier than expected” offered Datatex’s Shannon McCarthy. “We’ve had good volume and a good quality of visitors to our booth.”
“We had 30 customers visit the booth on Monday, and I had said coming into this that if we had 30 customers over the course of the three-day show, it would be worth exhibiting,” said Brenda Stamboulian, Jason Mills LLC. “So, we are very happy.”
“There really weren’t any expectations for this show because of everything happening around us, but I’ve been pleasantly surprised with the turnout,” added Franz Geppert, Monosuisse North America. “Each day has provided a consistent flow of existing and potential customers, which gave us enough time to hold good conversations and make some good contacts.”
“It’s been a surprisingly good show and turnout,” said Lou Ott, Gentex. “It was good to be face-to-face with people for a change without having a Zoom screen between us. And also having the time to catch up with friends and acquaintances — where they are, how they’re doing and all those personal things that you don’t have the opportunity to do on a zoom call — was great.”
Many attendees noted this was their first entry into the real world again after being cooped up at home or travel restricted because of the COVID-19 pandemic. Though some said they were a bit hesitant to attend, they enjoyed being in a show environment for the first time in 18-plus months. “It’s been great to be out and about again” stated Ernest Sumner of A.B. Carter. “We’ve been able to see and meet a lot of people that we hadn’t been able to catch up with or wouldn’t have known about had we not been here in Raleigh. We didn’t know who we needed to see until we saw them!”
“Shows are a pain in the neck, but so worth it,” said Steve Aranoff, Zund America Inc. “As someone who has participated on both sides as an exhibitor and an attendee, it’s hard to say which option is best. But we are such social characters. If I didn’t wander the show floor, I wouldn’t have met certain people to have conversations with and wouldn’t have learned what they know without engaging in that conversation.”
Educational Opportunities
As always, Techtextil North America offered educational sessions through its symposium series that was conducted over the three days. The symposiums centered on this year’s theme of “Accelerating Technology,” and topics focused on:
Sustainability, Traceability and Supply-Chain Disruptions;
Digital Transformation Strategy;
High Performance Fibers: From Concept to Market;
Sustainability in Laundering & Textile Care;
A Full Embrace of Circularity in Textiles;
Sustainability Strategies to Protect Your Brand and Your Bottom Line; and
Manufacturing, Managing, and Regulating PPE — Now and into the Future.
The content for this year’s sessions was expanded to include topics relevant to the apparel and textile laundering side of the industry to support the Texprocess Americas Pavilion and the new Textile Care Pavilion.
The symposiums were interesting and well attended, leading to some lively discussions on sustainability, supply chain issues and concerns, and in several cases, the art of surviving in a pandemic.
The Academy was new on the show floor in 2021. This free, show floor education opportunity combined the Tech Talks and The Lab premise from past shows. The presentations covered a wide variety of subjects within the technical textiles and nonwovens arena, with sessions on antiviral textiles and the “Testing Water Resistance of PPE Fabrics” the most well attended.
As always, student research was on view at the show through the Student Research Poster Program. Both graduate and undergraduate students from textile engineering programs in the Southeast region used the opportunity to share their findings with peers and potential employers. Some of the students also were given the opportunity to present their research at The Academy.
The Sewn Products Equipment and Suppliers of the Americas (SPESA) also collocated its 10th Advancements in Manufacturing Technologies conference with Techtextil North America. The single-day event focused on how the sewn products industry will operate in a post-COVID-19 world. A series of four panel discussions featured speakers from a variety of companies including Henderson Sewing Machine Co.; Shima Seiki; DAP America Inc.; Gerber Technology, a Lectra company; Morgan Tecnica America Inc.; Mitsubishi Electric Industrial Sewing Machines; Brother International Corp.; Shimmy Technologies; Motif; and the Zeis Textiles Extension at North Carolina State University.
“This year’s Advancements Conference was unique in many ways,” said SPESA President Michael McDonald. “It happened at a time when the industry has seen substantial change over the past two years. It brought together a lineup of new industry experts. And it served as a milestone moment for SPESA — it was the first in-person event we’ve hosted in more than eighteen months. This industry thrives on networking and engagement. It’s a true community!”
SPESA’s Michael McDonald (right) with Techtextil North America participants during the opening day reception.
Social Opportunities
The after-show meetings and gatherings — where many members of the industry say is where much of the business actually gets done — were numerous and varied.
SPESA and Techtexil North America sponsored the official opening day reception, while day two’s happy hour was hosted by the North Carolina Textile Foundation and NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles — Techtextil North America’s official Academic Partner.
On Tuesday evening after the Techtextil North America show floor closed for the day, Lawrenceville, N.J.-based Datacolor hosted a cocktail reception at NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles to celebrate a donation of state-of-the-art color management equipment and software valued at $270,000 to the school. According to Datacolor, the full suite of software licenses and instruments provides “immediate hand-on learning opportunities for the textile professionals of tomorrow.” The color lab houses all the equipment and tools needed to measure color and visually assess materials to ensure they conform to AATCC, ISO and ASTM International standards; including the latest Datacolor handheld ColorReaderPRO devices donated earlier this year.
“At Datacolor, we recognize the importance of color education, and we are proud to support the Wilson College of Textiles at NC State,” said Albert Busch, president and CEO, Datacolor. “By equipping the Datacolor Color Science Lab with our state-of-the-art software and instruments, we want to provide the next generation of color experts a chance to practice what they learn as they prepare for a career in color.”
“NC State has always been at the forefront of innovation,” said Dr. Renzo Shamey, director of Color Science and Imaging Laboratories, NC State. “Through our partnership with Datacolor, NC State students now have a unique opportunity to work with innovative industry-grade color management equipment, providing them with invaluable hands-on experience and unparalleled access to technology that will help them succeed well beyond their time here.”
Attendees received German beer steins stamped with the slogan “I spent a year without trade shows and all I got was this lousy mug.”
Overall Consensus
The general conclusion is that Techtextil North America 2021 met, or exceeded, most expectations and offered a much-needed positive start as the textile world emerges from a rough year and a half.
“We were thrilled with the turnout in Raleigh,” said Kristy Meade, vice president of Technical Textiles & Technology Shows at Messe Frankfurt North America. “It was so great to see the amount of business being done on the show floor, and the feedback we’ve received since has absolutely confirmed that the industry was desperately in need of an in-person event. Our goal was to provide a platform for the industry to reunite and get back to business after the rough 18-plus months we’ve all endured due to COVID-19, and I believe we more than succeeded in doing so.”
Here’s to the industry continuing the momentum forward!
Schneider weaves acetate, polyester and nylon yarns using air-jet and water-jet looms.
Deep rooted family values and a growth mindset keep technical weaving company Schneider Mills well-positioned for the future.
By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor
Meet George Shtohryn and Tim Little, the dynamic duo at the helm of fourth-generation, family-owned company Schneider Mills Inc., Taylorsville, N.C. The co-presidents split management duties with Shtohryn handling sales and fabric development from a New York City-based office, and Little overseeing production at the company’s 450,000-square-foot, state-of-the-art weaving mill in Taylorsville. Shtohryn is the more outgoing and gregarious of the two, as one might expect from someone in sales; and Little slightly more reserved. But both are equally passionate about what they do and the company they work for.
Between them they have 64 years with the company — Little in his 39th year and Shtohryn his 25th year. The company also has 15 employees on staff with more than 40 years of service and one lab employee celebrating her 50th year with the Schneider Mills this year. Amazingly, Mary Wike, a long-time lab employee who sadly passed away last year, had spent 62 years as a Schneider employee.
The company states it was “built upon Samuel Schneider’s ethic for family, work and community,” and clearly, this technical weaving company is a special place to work as illustrated by the long tenure of so many employees.
(left to right): Rob Gimblet, Weave Room superintendent, Curt Parker, vice president of operations, and Chip Swinnie, vice president of manufacturing, who have 31, 30 and 20 years of service respectively with Schneider Mills.
Small Beginnings
Founded in 1917 by Samuel Schneider, the company began life as a small silk weaving business in Haledon, N.J. The company expanded in the Northeast and developed a reputation within the New York converting trade.
In 1938, Schneider’s oldest son, Isadore Schneider, took over running the business. Isadore managed sales, while his brother Albert was over manufacturing.
In 1946, the company established a manufacturing operation in Taylorsville, N.C., where it ultimately consolidated its manufacturing operations.
“Schneider was following a trend that I think a lot of companies in the textile industry and other businesses were caught up in during the 1940s, which was to move further and further south,” Shtohryn said. “The trend was based on the labor situation and lack of unionization.”
Warper creels
“The company picked Alexander County, N.C., because it’s the largest county in North Carolina by land, but had least amount manufacturing in the state,” Little added. “The Schneider’s figured there were farm hands with families in the county and perhaps they could introduce some of those people to manufacturing.”
Albert and Isadore both passed away in recent decades leaving the company in the hands of the next generation.
Capabilities, Products
Over the company’s 100-year-plus history, its product line and manufacturing capabilities have evolved. The company’s focus today is on technical woven fabrics, and it sells exclusively greige fabric made using nylon, polyester or acetate ranging from 30 to as high as 1,260 denier. Fabrics may have plain or fancy dobby patterns and range in weight from 0.5 to 12 ounces per square yard.
The undyed fabrics, though some may be solution-dyed, require downstream processing by Schneider’s customers to meet the requirements for the targeted end-use. In some cases, the same base fabric can end up in entirely different applications depending on the type and number of downstream processes it is subjected to.
Off-loom take-ups in the weaving room
“We take the raw yarns and weave them to a specification required by our customers, who then treat the fabric in additional processing steps to make it end-use specific,” Shtohryn said. “There are so many things that happen to our fabric in downstream processing. It almost always starts with scouring. From there, fabrics may be dyed, printed and heat-set. Some customers might apply durable water-repellent or flame-retardant finishes. Others may coat and/or laminate the fabric. We have one particular customer who subjects our fabric to more than 20 different steps in downstream processing to meet their specifications.”
A large portion of Schneider’s fabrics end up in military applications. Additionally, these same fabrics might be used by law enforcement, the FBI, and U.S. Forest Service, among other government agencies. End products include backpacks, human and cargo parachutes, as well as protective equipment such as vests. “We hold the Berry Amendment very, very dear,” Shtohryn said. “It is very important to our business, and also assures that our military is supplied with consistent products that live up to specifications.” The Berry Amendment requires that the U.S. Department of Defense procure goods — which includes clothing, fabrics, fibers, yarns and other made-up textiles — produced in the United States and not from foreign sources.
Applications for the products aren’t limited to just military and protective equipment end-uses however. Schneider’s acetate taffeta winds up in surgical tape. Another substrate is silicon coated and used in airbags. The company also has a large business in fabrics for country and organizational flags and banners.
“Some of our customers own their own processing facilities, and there are other independent processing facilities that many of our customers use,” Shtohryn noted. “There is an agility to our distribution, and there is a specialty in some of these processing facilities that perhaps the larger companies do not have.”
Tyler Black, Weave Room department manager, air jets
Flexibility, Accepting Of Change
Little notes that the company is highly flexible from the machinery it operates, to the mindset of the employees running the constantly changing products. “I can remember one of Albert’s old sayings — the loom doesn’t care what kind of fiber it’s running, it just has to be flexible enough to run the different fibers,” Little stated. “That’s one of the key things they did here is to build the manufacturing plant based on flexibility.” According to Little, in the years he’s worked at Schneider Mills, the company has moved from Draper looms to rapier machines to water-jet and air-jet weaving machines. Weaving speeds currently range between 800 and 1,100 picks per minute. “We pride ourselves on the speeds we run and the quality that comes off the looms,” Little said.
“Most people are reluctant to change,” Little said. “But out in the mill, our employees know that what’s running on the loom today, may not be there tomorrow. We may have a loom running a 30-denier parachute fabric today, and tomorrow, we need to run a 1,000-denier Cordura® on the same machine. Our employees know to expect change, they accept it, and that makes us strong.”
Debbie Vaughn, Cloth Room department manager
Little and Shtohryn also credit much of the company’s success to its philosophy of never saying “no.” Schneider is quite often approached by a customer that knows the company’s capabilities and has a particular fabric construction in mind. “’Do you think we can develop this product together?’ is a question we are often asked,” Shtohryn mentioned. “Knowing the diverse capabilities and expertise at the plant, along with the willingness of our plant associates, the answer is almost always yes.
“It’s a company-wide philosophy that goes back to Albert and Isadore who said send us a sample, and we’ll make it,” Shtohryn continued. “No one says no, at least not without trying!”
“I’m not saying we can make everything,” Little added. “But we will give it a try and the flexibility in the plant allows us to do just that. The only limitations are the minimum and maximum widths.”
Warping Department employees Valerie James (front) with Bridgett Cox.
Agility
Agile also is a word Shtohryn used to describe the company. “It’s manufacturing agility, it’s marketing agility, and it’s also from a strong financial backbone the company possesses,” Shtohryn noted. “Today, we consider ourselves to be professionally run, yet family owned. And we have the full support of the family to do what’s necessary to keep the business thriving the way it has for more than 100 years.”
Brian Ellis, Weave Room supervisor
Labor, Supply Chain Challenges
Recently, the company has experienced some labor challenges and supply chain issues. “There have been labor challenges nationwide and we’re not immune to that,” Shtohryn said. “But we were quite fortunate and did not have to furlough during the initial stages of the pandemic. However, as for many companies today, labor availability remains challenging for Schneider.”
“Speaking of the workforce, we are very fortunate in some ways,” Little added. “We’ve actually gained some employees now that the unemployment situation has changed. And we have second-, third- and even some fourth-generation family employees working at Schneider. That family aspect has really helped us keep employees on staff.”
But Schneider Mills wants to shake the general perception that the textile industry is not a glamorous sector to work in. The U.S. textile industry has changed immeasurably since the days of sweatshops; the movie “Norma Rae;” and dingy, dusty cotton plants. The industry is modern and high tech — both in the products it makes and the facilities that make them — and Schneider is a perfect example of a modern, technical weaving plant.
“Even though we are a technical weaver, we still suffer the stigma of textiles from long ago,” Little said. “We have highly technical, computerized machines and we are trying to strongly promote that idea in our community and make known the employment opportunities available at Schneider Mills. We still have a difficult time getting across the idea that it is not the textile industry of years ago.”
Supply chain issues — from occasional spare parts or raw materials shortages and surcharges, as well as increased shipping costs — have not impacted Schneider Mills’ philosophy of doing business. “Since we are generally speaking in partnership with our supply chain, we’re not the only ones having to pass on various increases,” Shtohryn said. “There truly is a partnership approach in our distribution, and we’re in this to survive together and thrive together.”
Andrea Carter inspecting fabric
Business Diversification
Approximately 12 years ago, Albert Schneider began researching carbon fiber weaving as a way to use the company’s expertise and branch out.
The end result is a wholly owned subsidiary of Schneider Mills named Composite Fabrics of America (CFA). The business is run by Albert’s grandson, Matthew McPherson. CFA weaves carbon and para-aramid fibers for composite applications in aerospace, automotive, recreation and infrastructure repair markets.
“The business is still young, but we’re doing some pretty neat things,” Little said. “These markets are really highly specified and hard to get into, but the business is growing and it’s a different avenue for us to use our expertise in weaving.”
“CFA is an off-shoot and a different market, but I do think it complements our business,” Shtohryn said. “We have customers because of their exposure to military technology, mostly through soft goods, that touch on the fringes of fabrics for hard goods. This has created some opportunities for CFA that we hope will bear fruit.”
Weaver Kathy Childers inspecting fabric
Well Positioned For The Future
“You never know what’s going to happen tomorrow as far as the challenges that may come our way,” Little mused. “The fact we don’t say no to anything makes every day challenging. What we are doing, is trying to do it better every day. Trying to find a way to make sure the quality is better and trying to reduce the price by even just half a penny per yard to stay competitive. There is always something we can do better.”
“Our customer base is highly entrepreneurial, extremely creative and many of the individuals have been around for a while,” Shtohryn said. “Over time we have built a strong level of communication and trust. It’s a great supply chain to be a part of. Innovation is one of the best defenses, along with the Berry Amendment, that we have as a company and as a supply chain. It’s also that cooperative effort that goes into maintaining or gaining efficiencies to keep a robust supply chain. As soon as someone thinks they are going to knock us off, we’re on to the next thing.”
Agility, flexibility, a growth mindset and strong family values define Schneider Mills. The lessons learned from previous generations — including the philosophy of never saying “no” — puts the company in a great position for the future. The family business and Albert and Isadore’s legacy remains in good hands.
The star of the weaving room continues to advance, offering added value and higher quality to finished products.
TW Special Report
Even though, in most cases, the weaving process is the same as it ever was — create a shed, insert the filling and beat up the pick — today’s weaving machines are highly technical instruments featuring numerous innovations that have sped-up production, improved quality and saved energy.
Many of the latest developments in weaving machines have focused on automation, digital upgrades and innovative end products that add value including technical textiles, e-textiles and 3D structures.
“With labor shortages impacting every weaving mill in North America, we see increasing demand from our customers for automation technologies for the weaving mill,” said Oliver Meier, Textile director, North America, Stäubli. “Additionally, in the residential contract business, we see a trend developing for greater jacquard machine flexibility to address a wide range of fabric constructions that can satisfy market demands faster.”
Here, Textile World presents a few of the weaving machine innovations available to weavers in all end-use markets.
Weaving Machines
Italy-based Itema S.p.A. today combines the historic weaving brands of Somet, Sultex and Vamatex, which the company reports “combines Swiss precision with Italian creativity.” In 2019, the company also established Itematech — a new technical division devoted to weaving machines for technical fabrics — after it acquired Italy-based Panter/PTMT. The alliance of Itema with Panter produced a product portfolio that includes negative and positive rapier machines as well as air-jet and projectile offerings. The company established Itematech with the aim of providing technical fabric producers a partner that offers a complete range of weaving solutions and a skilled technical team to help fulfill specific customer requirements for technical fabrics.
Itema reports the Itematech A95002 air-jet weaving machine is especially welcomed in demanding weaving markets in the United States, Russia and India, among other countries. The machine combines two Itema technologies — for shed geometry and air-jet weft insertion — to guarantee high-quality fabrics even when weaving at high speeds.
The machine was tested in real-world scenarios during customer trials; and according to Itema, the A95002 demonstrated the ability to avoid “so-called ‘snarls,’” and also delivered “excellent results” when weaving high-density fabrics. Itema customers are currently using the machine for medical, automotive and parachute applications, among other applications.
The A95002 features a reinforced whip roller that eliminates friction to improve warp tension control and reduce warp stops. The machine also has a longer dwell time for the cam sley drive to allow a longer weft insertion time for more efficient weft filling. The machine’s double tandem nozzles also play a key role when weaving the coarsest yarns at high speeds. Itema offers two technologies for leno binding on the A95002. The patented Electronic Leno Device (ELD), features an innovative design that guarantees perfect leno binding with reduced operational costs, according to the company. The Rotary Leno Device (RLD) is suitable for most man-made fiber yarns.
Picanol’s new PicConnect fully digital platform acts as a gateway to all Picanol’s digital services.
Belgium-based Picanol NV specializes in air-jet and rapier weaving machines. The company recently introduced the TerryPlus-i air-jet weaving machine with a completely new pile formation system capable of creating any pile height from 0 to 12 millimeters on a pick-by-pick basis regardless of the pattern. “It doesn’t matter if it’s high pile, low pile, high density, low density, complex styles or simple styles — [the TerryPlus-i] can handle any challenge,” said Johan Verstraete, vice president, Weaving Machines, Picanol.
Other innovations include:
the GTMax-i 3.0S rapier weaving machine with full electronic monitoring and control, SUMO main motor and microprocessor-controlled filling insertion; and
the OptiMax-i rapier machine designed for gentle treatment of all kinds of weft yarns; and may be easily modified, retrofitted and upgraded as needed as a result of its modular design concept.
Picanol just launched PicConnect, a new fully digital platform that supports Internet of Things (IoT) and service-related applications, and also acts as a gateway to all Picanol’s digital services. The web-based, cloud application may be accessed using a web browser on any device. All machines can be connected to the cloud to leverage all four of the platform’s applications — production monitoring, energy monitoring, style administration and PartsLine, Picanol’s new online web store.
Using the production monitoring application, users can track production in real-time and immediately react to operational tasks to increase efficiency and view historical data to determine where action may need to be taken to optimize production.
PicConnect’s energy monitoring application surveils air and power consumption of the weaving machines. According to Picanol, insight into the energy flow in the weave room can help reduce overall energy costs.
Machine settings may be opened, edited and managed quickly using PicConnect’s style administration application. Operators can compare and copy settings between machines on the plant floor ensuring each machine is operating under optimal settings for each fabric woven.
PicConnect’s PartsLine online web store for spare parts allows customers to receive price quotes, review orders and receive invoices.
“PicConnect is a new platform that makes it possible for weavers to quickly react to changes in the weave room, and that will have an immediate impact on the performance of the machines in various aspects,” said Erwin Devloo, Picanol’s marketing communication manager. “This new Picanol platform is only the start of a whole new story with new applications in the future that Picanol is continuously working on.”
Smit’s machinery is suitable for weaving carbon fiber fabrics.
Italy-based SMIT joined the Santex Rimar Group a few years ago. The company has been manufacturing weaving machines since 1938, specializing in rapier technology.
SMIT most recently introduced the 2FAST rapier weaving machine. The name FAST is an acronym for Flexible Advanced Shuttleless Technology. SMIT relates the engineering of its 2FAST “racing machine” to the country’s tradition and expertise in motor sports. According to SMIT, the 2FAST shows high starting acceleration and 100-percent beat-up efficiency right from the first weft insertion. The machine also features maximum torque for heavy shedding requirements, and minimum vibration even at top operating speeds. The modular concept machine incorporates the new leno-force system, which is adaptable for different fabric types. Operators can program the false selvedge and leno yarn crossing pick-by-pick for each side of the fabric independently to control weft stretching and reduce weft tail. A new patented gripper design works will all weft yarns and fabric styles; and 2FAST can also handle fancy articles with weft yarns that vary in size and style. The machine was also designed with energy-saving goals in mind. 2FAST is suitable for apparel, denim and home textile fabrics, as well as technical fabrics.
“Software-based control and automation, smart algorithms and data analysis — it’s all embodied in this rapier loom, which is ready for Industry 4.0,” said Giuseppe Castelli, chief technology officer, SMIT. “We are very proud of all advantages embodied in the compact design of the new 2FAST and we are glad to speak it out loud — while also using advanced technology to make the machine itself even quieter.”
SMIT also offers the ONE modular concept based on the GS940 Smart Platform architecture. The company reports the machine is “extremely” versatile thanks to its dynamically controlled flexible tape rapier that works with reed widths between 140 to 220 centimeters. The insertion system is based on just the one rapier with no weft transfer taking place in the middle of the shed. Speeds This mode of operation allows low weft tensions to be used and reduces the warp shed amplitude for increased efficiency, reduces the machine’s energy consumption, makes style changes faster, and increases the range of yarns that the machine can handle, according to SMIT. The company’s Free Flight Ribbon System also eliminates the ribbon guide hooks for further reduced operating costs. ONE will produce high-quality fabrics for any sector, carbon fiber technical fabrics included, according to SMIT.
After the second World War, Germany-based Lindauer Dornier GmbH turned to engineering weaving machines when the company was prohibited from manufacturing aircraft in Germany. Today, the company engineers rapier and air-jet machines that are particularly suitable for technical weaving applications such as airbags and bulletproof products, but also capable of producing pure silk fabrics, jacquard items and delicate worsted fabrics.
According to the company, the Dornier P2 rapier machine is a most flexible weaving machine. “We cover the entire spectrum of fabric production from very fine to very coarse fabrics,” said Wolfgang Schöffl, head of Dornier’s weaving machine product line. The company reports some customers are using the P2 for filtration fabrics. “In order to continuously improve the tightness and quality of filter fabrics, we are further developing our machines in close cooperation with our customers,” Schöffl said.
Other customers are using the P2 to weave fabrics for artistic installations. Bulgarian artist/sculptor Christo, known for his fabric-wrapped creations and outdoor sculptures created with his wife Jeanne-Claude, passed away in 2020 before he was able to carry out a planned exhibit to cover the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. However, his nephew Vladmir Yavachev, set out to accomplish Christo’s last work, and the fabric produced for the installation was created using Dornier’s P2 weaving machine. Some 25,000-square-meters of silver-blue recycled polypropylene coated fabric was woven by Germany-based SETEX Textil. “Only one weaving machine came into question for this demanding fabric,” said Konrad Schröer, owner and managing director of Setex. “The ideal solution is the P2 with its new shed geometry and increased performance in combination with our experienced weavers and their textile know-how.”
The P2 rapier machine is also an integral part of Dornier’s Composite Systems® product line (See “Reintroducing DORNIER’s Composite Systems® Suite,” TW, this issue”).
Tsudakoma’s ZAX9200i
Tsudakoma Corp. is a Japan-based manufacturer of air-jet and water-jet looms. The company recently introduced the ZAX001neo air-jet loom and the ZW8200 water-jet loom. Both machines feature a newly designed robust frame structure.
On the air-jet loom, this new frame contributes 30-percent reduction in vibration compared to its predecessor, the ZAX9200i. Among many features of the new model, the ZAX001neo features an integrated auxiliary main nozzle in a pipeless system, which reduces residual compressed air and increases the weft feeding force to minimize broken or slack picks. The FDP-A IV Electronic Free Drum Pooling System ensures stable weft insertion, and makes possible soft weft insertion for sensitive yarns. The pre-winding direction on the FDP also may be adjusted to account for the twist direction of the yarns being woven. Tsudakoma also designed a new heddle frame for ultra-high-speed production.
Tsudakoma reports the new ZW8200 water-jet weaving machine offers a 10-percent increase in machine rpms, a 10-percent reduction in water consumption, and is clean to operate with a 70-percent reduction of grease into the drainage system, compared to existing models.
The company also offers the CR3300 for technical fabrics such as composite fabrics, or those made using carbon, aramid or glass fibers. The CR3300 features a one-side band rapier mechanism with guideless and slay running system; explosion-proof electric components to prevent fire from carbon flies; a positive cam for 1/1 plain or twill weaves; and regular or special feeders depending on whether twisted or flat weft yarns will be used.
Belgium-based Van de Wiele NV has been a player in the carpet weaving market since 1880. The company’s face-to-face carpet weaving technique first creates a 3D structure by connecting pile yarns between two ground structures. The pile yarns are then cut down the middle to produce two symmetrical carpets. The Rug & Carpet Expert RCE2+ is Van de Wiele’s latest generation double rapier face-to-face carpet weaving machine. According to the company, the technology features fewer mechanics and more electronics for high-capacity production.
The company also offers velvet and technical fabric weaving machines, finishing machines, and bulk-continuous filament extrusion lines. Earlier this year, Van de Wiele acquired the Italy-based Savio Group, further diversifying its textile portfolio with the addition of yarn winding and quality control devices.
Müller’s NFM® with MDW® thread placing device
Narrow Fabrics: Müller
Switzerland-based Jakob Müller AG Frick has 134 years of know-how in narrow fabric weaving. Its machinery is used to create products for a myriad of end products including those used in automotive, fashion, industrial, medical and home textile applications.
The NFM® is Müller’s latest generation of narrow fabric loom. This universal series of machine’s is based on the company’s successful NF and NH looms, and was designed for light- to medium-weight elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics made using all yarn types. The machine is available in two base models — the NFM 53 and NFM 80.
According to the company, the machines are simple to modify or convert because of a modular design. Customers can easily exchange weaving heads to change the tape width, exchange a complete cross beam, expand the machine to Müller’s NFMJ, and the machines also are prepared for MDW®, its Multi Directional Weaving functional and effect thread placing device.
The NFM series features infinitely adjustable, electronically controlled stepper drives for the weft, binder and locking threads, rubber transport and fabric take-off. An electronic main drive also may be regulated at any time. NFM machines feature a MÜDATA M touch screen and the latest MLC control system with networking capability.
Müller also offers the MÜGRIP® MBJ8 1/1380 label weaving machine for labels and pictures with slit selvedges. The machine has a maximum nominal width of 1,346 millimeters. Features include the SPE3/SPE3M jacquard head; MLC machine control/network ready; Müdata M touchscreen; rapier drive; lightweight universal rapier for extended head and tape life; and electronically controlled IRO Luna X3 weft thread feeders for up to 12 colors.
Stäubli’s S3260 electronic rotary dobby
Shedding Technologies: Stäubli
Switzerland-based Stäubli Group, with its U.S. textile headquarters located in Duncan, S.C., specializes in shedding solutions for both frame and jacquard weaving, weaving preparation technologies (See “Weaving: Auxiliary Equipment Matters,” TW, this issue ), and carpet weaving machines under the Schönherr Stäubli brand name.
“Our customers are looking for solutions that are adapted to their needs to stay at the forefront of their market,” said Fritz Legler, marketing and sales, Stäubli. “We provide quality, high-speed machinery made of first-class materials combined with ingenious R&D as a result of our long-lasting experience and partnering with our customers.”
Stäubli offers the high-speed S3200 series of electronic rotary dobbies for air-jet weaving along with maintenance-free harness motions. According to the company, integrating such a combination into the weaving machine is a key to precise shed formation when the highest operating speeds and precision are required. Stäubli also offers the S1600 and S1700 series cam motions for plain weaves, such as denim, on air-jet and rapier weaving machines.
Stäubli is well-known for its extensive range of jacquard weaving machinery for a variety of applications including flat fabrics, terry, carpeting, velvets, narrow fabrics and technical fabrics. Technologies include:
LXXL Series, which supports any large weaving pattern from airbag to upholstery weaving where repeats are not necessary.
LX and LXL, which support multi repeat to single repeat weaving. The LXL12288 and LXL14336 — where 12,288 and 14,336 denotes the number of hooks available to control the warp — are used in one-piece woven airbag applications.
SX, a workhorse jacquard machine for all types of fabrics requiring 2,688 warps ends or multiples of that number.
LX2493 jacquard machine for technical and carpet solutions with one of the largest shed openings on the market, according to Stäubli.
N4L, which was designed to support dobby weavers who wish to add a unique look or brand name in the selvedge.
UNIVAL 100, which is Stäubli’s most versatile jacquard machine featuring an individual servo motor, called an actuator, to control each warp thread.
Customers in the technical weaving arena can also take advantage of Stäubli’s new TF weaving system series dedicated to reinforcing multilayer fabrics made using carbon or aramid, and heavy industrial fabrics. The series may be paired with the S2688 or Unival 500 for dobby weaving; or the LX2493 or Unival 100 plus Stäubli harnesses for most complex jacquard applications.
