September/October 2023

Macy’s Inc. has joined the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, Memphis, Tenn.

PrimaLoft Inc., Latham, N.Y., recently launched PrimaLoft® Utility, a resilient, man-made insulation material designed to excel in harsh conditions and last longer.

Blue Ridge Home Fashions, Irwindale, Calif., has introduced a new basic bedding collection —comprised of filled pillows, comforters, mattress pads, mattress toppers and blankets — featuring CiCLO® sustainable textile technology from Intrinsic Advanced Materials LLC.

HanesBrands, Winston-Salem, N.C., has announced a multi-year licensing agreement for the design, production and distribution of Champion and C9 Champion outerwear in North America with New York City-based G-III Apparel Group Ltd.

Navis TubeTex, Lexington, N.C., is now a sales agent in Canada, Honduras and the United States for Germany-based SETEX a producer of controllers, sensors and software solutions for textile dyeing and finishing operations.

Cone Denim®, Greensboro, N.C., has joined the CIRCULOSE® Supplier Network. It reports it is the first U.S.-based denim mill to join the network, which comprises yarn and textile manufacturers committed to streamlining and increasing the production of Circulose, a cellulosic fiber made using waste material.

Switzerland-based electronic warp feeding system provider Crealet AG is celebrating its 20th anniversary.

Aurora Specialty Textiles Group, Yorkville, Ill., recently celebrated 140 years of continuously manufacturing products in the United States.

New York City-based denim brand Madewell has become a bluesign® System Partner.

Montreal-based Gildan Activewear Inc. recently published its 19th Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) report, which highlights the companies 2022 performance against
key targets.

September/October 2023

September/October

Brent Hyder has joined Denver-based VF Corp. as chief people officer. He reports to President and CEO Bracken Darrell.

The Italy-based Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT) has appointed Giorgio Calculli managing director. He replaces Federico Pellegata, who after 25 years as managing director, is moving into a role as CEO of ACIMIT Servizi S.r.l., a company that provides services to its associated member companies to help promote and support the Italian textile machinery at home and abroad.

The board of directors at Albany International Corp., Rochester, N.H., has named Gunnar Kleveland the successor to Bill Higgins as president and CEO. Higgins is retiring, but will remain on Albany’s board.

Tom Gyles is the new senior vice president, Global Distribution Network in Canada, for Portland, Ore.-based Columbia Sportswear Co.

Standard Fiber, Foster City, Calif., has named Trina Solomon to the new position of vice president, marketing and brands.

Daren Abney was recently named executive director of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol.

Dr. Sanjay Patel has joined Navis TubeTex, Lexington, N.C., to lead the chemical applications product line and strengthen the company’s commitment to providing sustainable chemical finishing solutions.

San Francisco-based Gap Inc. has named Chris Blakeslee president and CEO of Athleta.

Kontoor Brands, Greensboro, N.C., has appointed Pete Kidd executive vice president and chief human resources officer.

Cincinnati-based Standard Textile Co. Inc. has named Jonathan Simon executive vice president of Global Growth and Strategy.

Markku Koivisto, senior vice president, Europe and R&D at Helsinki-based b, has been named interim senior vice president, Americas. Lynda Kelly, senior vice president, Americas and Business Development, has left the company for medical reasons. The company has started the search for a new senior vice president, Americas.

September/October 2023

Soft, Sustainable ZZZs

Cotton Incorporated’s RESTech COTTON™ technology imparts increased softness, moisture management properties and durability to cotton sheeting for a more restful night’s sleep.

By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor

When polled by Cary, N.C.-based Cotton Incorporated as part of a Home Textiles Survey, 79 percent of respondents said quality is a priority when choosing sheets, 70 percent actively seek 100-percent cotton goods and quality bedding translates to better sleep according to 87 percent of people polled. In addition, 71 percent express a desire for environmentally friendly textiles.

Cotton Incorporated’s latest innovation, RESTech COTTON, uses advanced chemistry to create a 100-percent cotton sheeting solution that checks all the boxes to meet those consumer concerns and produce a restful night’s sleep. The company reports the technology brings comfort, durability and softness to sheeting products, while remaining an ecofriendly choice because it’s biodegradable and recyclable.

According to Cotton Incorporated, RESTech COTTON-treated sheets are up to 40-percent softer than untreated cotton sheets, with durability that beats polyester and rayon when tested against ASTM D3885 – Standard Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics. In addition, RESTech boosts the natural moisture management and thermoregulating properties of cotton, and  may dry up to 50-percent faster on the skin, thus providing cool comfort for hot sleepers. Cotton also is a naturally hypoallergenic fiber that is gentle on the skin for people with skin sensitivities.

The technology is applied as a finish using a standard pad-dry-cure application after the sheets have either been bleached to a finish white or dyed.

According to Mark Messura, senior vice president, global supply chain marketing for Cotton Incorporated, the cotton-specific innovation was designed for practical implementation and may be licensed from the company with the only requirement that it be used on 100-percent cotton fibers. However, there may be further applications for the technology that will be introduced in the future.

“RESTech COTTON technology takes the best attributes of cotton and cotton finishes to create a unique, durable product with non-fluorine technology,” noted Dr. Hongqing “Mike” Shen, vice president and managing director of product development and implementation for Cotton Incorporated. “It allows sheets to hold less moisture, dry more quickly, maintains remarkable softness and comfort. This combination makes it a triple threat.”

“With our RESTech COTTON technology, we’ve captured the timeless comfort of cotton and enhanced it with modern innovation, redefining the possibilities of a good night’s sleep,” said Jennifer Lukowiak, director, supply chain marketing, for Cotton Incorporated. “This technology is a perfect choice for those seeking not just better sleep but a more sustainable one. It’s another proud mile-stone in our continuous effort to promote the natural excellence of cotton.”


For more information on RESTech COTTON™ please visit cottonworks.com /restech-cotton.


September/October 2023

PAKA® Launches Performance ¾ Crew Socks

BOULDER, Colo. — September 28, 2023 — PAKA®, an innovator in alpaca fiber apparel, is excited to announce the launch of its new Performance ¾ Crew Sock. Since its launch in 2017, PAKA has been setting the standard for alpaca-based athleticwear. The Performance ¾ Crew Sock highlights their latest innovation with the natural fiber, incorporating the finest alpaca yarn diameter the company has ever used to create an ultra-soft and highly durable multisport sock.

Alpaca fiber is a performance powerhouse — it’s naturally odor resistant, moisture wicking and thermoregulating. Alpaca’s impressively low moisture retention rate of 8 percent (typical wool compares at an average of 18 percent) helps to keep feet dry and comfortable, and avoids the moisture and friction buildup that can lead to blisters. Alpaca fibers also contain a keratin protein with natural antibacterial properties that make it incredibly difficult to make these socks smell.

Paka takes these inherent features of the fiber to the next level with intelligent design. The Performance ¾ Crew Sock is crafted with a snug rib-knit design to avoid shifting and friction, a breathable mobility mesh where the ankle meets to the foot to promote ventilation, compressive arch support, and strategic extended heel padding for high-impact zones.

“We wanted to create a versatile performance sock that could stand the test of intense biking, hiking and backpacking. We went all the way back to refining the yarn in Peru, creating a much finer thread count that would knit into a high-compression rib,” said Kris Cody, PAKA Founder and CEO. “We went through probably 15-20 prototypes, sending them out on treks until the sock encompassed everything our community needed.”

The Performance ¾ Crew Sock is available for $24 in Black, Charcoal, Blue, Walnut, Quail and Forage colors

Posted: September 27, 2023

Source: PAKA

PT. Embee Plumbon Tekstil (Indonesia) Joins International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) As Corporate Member

ZURICH — September 27, 2023 — Since PT Embee Plumbon Tekstil started its operations in 1999 in Indonesia the spinning company has evolved into one of the leading spinning companies in the world. Embee pursues a customer-focused approach by continuously upgrading its technology, by producing in a skillful manner, and by conducting comprehensive training programs. This approach allows setting the highest standards in product and process development.

Christian Schindler, director general of ITMF, stated that: “ITMF is very fortunate to welcome such a renowned spinning company as a new Corporate Member in its membership. companies like Embee demonstrate how important it is to offer quality products that the markets demand at a competitive price. ITMF offers Embee an environment that can be seen as sounding board. This helps Embee to better understand the company’s position in the global competition, to learn about the prevailing trends in the global industry and to identify suitable suppliers and customers”.

Vijay Agarwal, president director of PT. Embee Plumbon Tekstil, commented that: “by joining ITMF we become a part of a unique universe of the global textile supply chain. It is important for Embee to look beyond the daily business and develop a feeling for the evolution of the industry. A forum like ITMF offers just that. To have access to ITMF’s data, survey, webinars, and its international network across the entire textile value chain provides intangible value for us. Engaging with colleagues from around the world in an atmosphere of trust is very valuable.”

Posted: September 27, 2023

Source: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF)

MAS Holdings’ Fabric Park Redefines Sustainable Manufacturing

THULHIRIYA, Sri Lanka — September 27, 2023 — In an era where environmental sustainability is transitioning from choice to necessity, MAS Fabric Park (MFP) stands out as a revolutionary force in Sri Lanka’s apparel industry. Nestled in the tranquil environs of Thulhiriya in the Kegalle District in Sri Lanka, this 165-acre privately owned apparel-intensive free trade zone is not just a manufacturing hub; it’s the result of the MAS Group’s unwavering vision for sustainability, a testament to the Group’s dedication and a shining example of business harmonizing with the environment.

A Vision for Positive Change

MAS Holdings, the parent company of Fabric Park, has long embraced a vision of sustainable growth and positive transformation within the Company’s ethos, which is seen throughout the organization and its initiatives. The belief is that sustainability goes beyond profit; it’s about fostering positive change in the world, making a difference for the communities around the locality, and leaving a lighter footprint on our planet.

Murad Rajudeen, CEO of MAS Fabric Park

MAS Fabric Park’s CEO Murad Rajudin explained that MFP provides partner plants with centralized utility services including treated water, raw effluent treatment for factory-discharged water, energy in the form of electricity distribution from the main grid, steam, and thermic heat, based on the location of the plant.

“MFP plays a pivotal role in the intricate supply chain of MAS Holdings. Firstly, it is a strategic hub for fabric development and value addition, contributing significantly to the vertical integration of the MAS supply chain. This integration is crucial in a global industry where speed, efficiency, and reducing carbon footprint have become paramount. By offering state-of-the-art infrastructure and facilities for fabric manufacturing right within Sri Lanka, MFP not only streamlines operations but also aligns with the global demand for responsible and sustainable manufacturing practices.”

Comprehensive Water Management, Waste Reduction, and Value enhancement

Sustainability is deeply ingrained in every facet of MAS Fabric Park’s operations, notably in its approach to IPZ’s overall water footprint management, centralized effluent treatment, and waste management operations. The Park introduced a uniquely designed centralized raw wastewater collection and combined treatment system, which strictly adheres to global-level Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) standards with respect to the fully treated discharges of the zone.

Water Treatment Plan at MAS Fabric Park

MFP General Manager (Hydro & Sustainability) Harsha Deraniyagala says, “MFP is leading the way in centralized water management systems, and centralized effluent treatment operations whilst meeting global standards with a present capacity of 9,000 cubic meters per day. These innovative systems, operating at such high capacity, eliminate the need for redundant in-house treatment plants for partner facilities, effectively optimizing resources and curbing environmental impact within the zone.”

In addition, MAS Fabric Park has pioneered the sustainable management of textile “sludge”, which is a globally concerned area related to the industry. Through sustainable solar and thermal drying-based reductions, and dried sludge co-processing for energy recovery leading to final eco-brick production, it has significantly reduced the waste footprint of the zone whilst ensuring circularity within the entity. Even the ultimate byproduct of textile wastewater treatment sludge finds purpose in products like the Eco Brick, used in constructing the chalets at MAS Athena and also across other construction needs of the entity, whilst biological waste is being diverted for composting for nurturing plants, aligning seamlessly with the concept of waste-to-energy and waste-to-value. These initiatives contribute for the significant reductions of respective Carbon Footprints usually linked with the water, wastewater, and resultant large-scale environmental engineering operations. The fully equipped, ISO IEC 17025 accredited water quality laboratory and the research center support the related quality assurance and compliance aspects throughout the respective value streams.

Solar Revolution – Clean Energy and Carbon Footprint Reduction

The path to sustainability at MAS Fabric Park was not without its share of challenges. In its early stages, the substantial investment required for clean energy battled with an unfavorable national electricity tariff, resulting in a low return on investment (ROI) for green projects. However, a turning point came with the introduction of the “Sooriya Balasangramaya” national solar initiative, which sparked a newfound interest in clean energy among investors, both industrial and domestic.

Nandana Dissanayake, Deputy General Manager of MAS Fabric Park

Deputy General Manager Nandana Dissanayake proudly affirms, “Our 24 MW solar capacity is a groundbreaking achievement in Sri Lanka’s renewable energy landscape, decreasing our carbon footprint by 20 tons annually.” MFP wholeheartedly embraced the shift towards clean energy, directly addressing its carbon footprint. Today, it stands at the forefront of rooftop solar installations with an impressive 24 MW of solar capacity spread across its facilities—a milestone that solidifies its status as the largest multi-site rooftop solar project in Sri Lanka under a single business entity.

Beyond Industrialization – Analog Forest and Biodiversity Restoration

One of the most striking aspects of MFP’s sustainability journey revolves around its “Thuruwadula” analog forest. Analog forests represent human-crafted natural ecosystems aimed at reclaiming land lost to agricultural expansion. Thuruwadula, spanning 9.7 acres serves multiple roles as a sanctuary for preserving biodiversity, a model for adapting to climate change and a valuable educational resource.

Within the confines of Thuruwadula, endangered endemic plant species have discovered a safe haven from extinction. The flourishing growth of Ayurvedic and medicinal plants not only benefits the environment but also has a positive impact on local communities. Furthermore, the forest provides a habitat for numerous animal species.

Thuruwadula also plays a crucial role in enhancing rural communities, both socially and economically, by promoting species that offer sustenance and marketable products. While it typically takes up to 80 years for an analog forest to evolve into a rainforest, Thuruwadula, situated in a dry zone, is already displaying approximately 20% of the characteristics of a natural forest. This unique ecosystem is home to an impressive variety of wildlife, including 25-35 bird species, 10 butterfly species and 15 snake varieties, as well as deer, mouse deer, porcupines, rabbits and other fauna.

Long-Term Commitment and Future Prospects

“MFP plays a critical role in not only the MAS Supply chain but also the Sri Lankan apparel industry’s supply chain,” says Rajudin. “Our commitment to sustainability is unwavering given that we have set ambitious goals to reduce Greenhouse Gas Emissions by 25% by 2025.” With an annual consumption of approximately 230 million kWh of electricity from the national grid, the shift towards clean energy has already made a substantial impact, reducing carbon footprint by 20 tons annually.

In an industry often criticized for its environmental impact, MFP is a role model of change. It is a reminder that we can reduce our carbon footprint, restore ecosystems and build a brighter future for generations. It’s a symbol of hope, proving that businesses can be forces for good and that a sustainable future is within our grasp.

As for MFP’s future, the journey is far from over. The Park plans to expand its solar capacity and continue its role as a leader in sustainable practices. It’s not just about meeting today’s environmental standards; it’s about setting new benchmarks for tomorrow.

Posted: September 27, 2023

Source: MAS Fabric Park (MFP)

PLEVA Gmbh: Weft-Straightening At ETV Textilveredlung

EMPFINGEN, Germany — September 27, 2023 — A high quality fabric is an essential requirement for any finisher who intends to ensure a consistency in quality and resource-efficiency. A particularly important quality criterion is fabric with straight weft and course.

The German textile finishing company ETV Textilveredlung produces for various areas of application a wide variety of articles and qualities. Their customers are from the automotive sector as well as from sportswear, building materials, protective clothing, home textiles, medicine and filtration. This implies the use of completely different fibers (cotton, polyester, mohair, polyamide, aramide and blends), different fabric weights from 80 to 800 g/m2 and different fabric widths in a range from 1000 to 2800 mm.

Despite the huge variety in the portfolio, the goal and claim of ETV Textilveredlung is to produce high quality, straightened fabrics without distortion at all times while maintaining easy, intuitive operation.

Fitted to these needs the well-known German manufacturer PLEVA gives with the automatic weft- straightener SL smart including the unique high- tech traversing camera technology the optimum solution and offers the finisher several advantages.

The user-friendly, self-explanatory interface displays all important information at one glance. This enables to work with maximum efficiency and to react to the complex portfolio with the integrated recipe management for sophisticated straightening. The well-established advanced traversing camera with many measuring points across the fabric width ensures the most accurate straightening. In combination with the fast reaction time of the rollers, it allows best straightening results. Furtheron the machine design is fitted to even the harshest working conditions and optimized for easy cleaning and low maintenance.

Dirk Tunney, COO ETV Textilveredlung is satisfied and said: “Very good straightening results have been achieved for all articles. Even in the case of very special fabric designs/structures, the stored recipes always deliver a good result. The positive experiences in the use and easy handling of the SL smart straightening machine (which is in use since 2021) have prompted us to install a new PLEVA high-tech straightening machine in March 2023. We can recommend PLEVA with a clear conscience.”

Besides those advantages, also a positive ecological impact is achieved: Due to the first-time-right-principle, only one round through the production line with the fabric is needed to produce directly the aimed result. This saves energy and valuable resources. In addition, due to the higher quality of the goods, there are no more costly readjustments or wasted fabrics and complaints can be reduced drastically. This is not only good for textile finishing companies and customers, but also for the environment.

Posted: September 27, 2023

Source: PLEVA GmbH

Techtextil And Texprocess Innovation Awards 2024 Submissions In Full Swing

Photo: Messe Frankfurt / Jean-Luc Valentin

FRANKFURT AM MAIN, Germany — September 27, 2023 — Looking forward with great anticipation to discover the sector’s latest and most technologically sophisticated products and processes, preparations for Techtextil and Texprocess from April 23-26, 2024, are in full swing. As integral parts of the two fairs, the Innovation Awards are genuine highlights. Two expert juries will select the latest, most intelligent and outstanding innovations from the sector thus ensuring that all award-winning companies and their best solutions are brought to the attention of all visitors to Techtextil and Texprocess 2024.

“We are proud to once again present the very latest innovations — the result of unrivalled research, products and technologies of the textile manufacturing and processing industry — at the coming Techtextil and Texprocess trade fairs. For our visitors, the Techtextil and Texprocess Innovation Awards are genuine highlights. Every two years, these innovations give a perfect demonstration of the future-oriented direction being taken by the industries in fields of development, such as efficiency, ultra-new materials, coatings and sustainable production, which incentivizes the market and illustrates the innovative power and spirit of the industries,” said Sabine Scharrer, director Techtextil and Texprocess.

The closing date for all entries for the 2024 Techtextil and Texprocess Innovation Awards is December 15, 2023. The awards are open to all companies, institutes, universities, polytechnics and individuals, regardless of whether they are exhibitors of Techtextil or Texprocess in 2024. The developments entered must have been on the market for max. two years, or be shortly before their market launch. From mid-December 2023, two juries of experienced international experts will thoroughly examine the products submitted and evaluate them in terms of criteria such as novelty, economic relevance, potential and creativity. The winning companies will be presented for the first time during a well-publicized ceremony during the first day of the fair in Frankfurt am Main on April 23, 2024.

Business relevant: Innovation Awards attract great attention

Award-winning companies and research institutes benefit from the high degree of attention for their innovations generated by the Techtextil and Texprocess Innovation Awards. For example, FibreCoat GmbH of Aachen, Germany, which received the Techtextil Innovation Award in the ‘New Technology’ category together with Deutsche Basalt Faser GmbH in 2022, reported: “Winning the Innovation Award represents a milestone for us because it has always been our ambition to be honored in this way. The Techtextil Innovation Award is the most prestigious award in the textile industry.” The two companies were chosen for the joint development of an aluminium-coated basalt fiber. According to FibreCoat, the new product means that electromagnetic shielding as wallpaper in buildings, such as hospitals or server farms, will be up to 20 times cheaper than conventional aluminium foil. Another attractive and particularly fast-growing market is shielding solutions for electric vehicles.

A positive response was also noted among the customers of Juki Central Europe after the company was selected for the 2022 Texprocess Innovation Award in the ‘New Technology’ category. The company won the award for its innovative AW-3S automatic bobbin thread winding and feeding device. The jury was impressed by the change from a manual to an automated process as another example of Industry 4.0 and said the device not only increases productivity but also reduces fatigue for sewing machine operating personnel.

Go-to-market boost for award winners

Italy’s Vérabuccia company was also one of the winners in 2022 and received the Techtextil Innovation Award in the ‘Performance Fashion’ category for its patented, innovative production process that enables fruit waste to be transformed into fashion highlights. In distinction to other vegetable leathers, which tend to imitate genuine animal leather, this process retains the original appearance of a pineapple skin. The jury honored the unconventional thinking of the Italian label whereby original fashions are created using unexpected materials. Currently, a year after receiving the award, Vérabuccia is working on opening up important markets with its patented process.

Starting shot for entries for 2024

Now, companies, institutes, universities, polytechnics and individuals have until December 15, 2023, to enter their inspiring, disruptive and innovative new products for the Techtextil Innovation Award 2024 or the Texprocess Innovation Award 2024 and have the opportunity to present their award-winning ideas on an outstanding platform in Frankfurt am Main during the first day of the fair on April 23, 2024. The juries are looking forward to judging the most innovative ideas emerging from the many exciting segments of the two industries.

Techtextil Innovation Award 2024

Submit entries at: https://www.techtextilaward.com/

Categories:

  • New Concept;
  • New Technology;
  • New Material;
  • New Application;
  • New Product;
  • New Approaches on Sustainability & Circular Economy;
  • New Technologies on Sustainability & Recycling; and
  • New Technology & Digitalization.

Texprocess Innovation Award 2024

Submit entries at: https://www.texprocessaward.com/

Categories:

  • Economic quality (cost minimisation, time / process optimisation, automation);
  • Ecological quality (climate protection, energy efficiency, sustainability, recycling, circularity);
  • Digitalisation and AI; and
  • Innovation for quality improvement.

The Techtextil and Texprocess trade fairs will be held from April 23-26, 2024.

Posted: September 27, 2023

Source: Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH

The EMPEL Textile Finish Now Proves C6 And Water Based CØ DWR Finishes Obsolete

Green Theme Technologies’s Polymer

ALBUQUERQUE, New Mexico — September 27, 2023 — Green Theme Technologies (GTT), creators of the PFAS-free and waterless EMPEL textile finishing platform, is rendering current PFAS-containing C6 and water-based CØ water repellent finishes obsolete. Cleaner, more durable, and better performing, EMPEL is the best option for the environment and consumer brands.

Recent competitive product testing by The Haartz Corp. showed how textiles treated with the EMPEL water repellent technology absorbed about ⅓ the amount of water compared to the best CØ and C6 water repellent market solutions. Equally impressive, EMPEL kept water from passing through the fabrics WITHOUT the use of a membrane. Using the same woven textiles for testing in a ten-minute rain test, only 2 milliliters of water passed through the EMPEL treated fabrics compared to 325mL from the CØ and C6 competition.

“We have a product that will revolutionize what consumers can expect from their clothing. Brands and Mills can now make fabrics that protect people from the elements without using hot and stiff rain jackets with membranes,” said Martin Flora, vice president of Business Development for GTT. “EMPEL keeps the fabric dry on the surface and keeps the water on the outside of your clothing and shoes. Add in our 50+ wash durability, and you have a product that will allow people to keep their gear much longer without buying new replacements. The most sustainable products use safe chemistry (PFAS -Free) and work for many years in the future.”

Waterproof Fabric Up Close with Water Beads

Haartz is a global leader in highly engineered and uniquely designed textile materials in a variety of markets, including home furnishings, automotive textiles, military materials and footwear fabrics. Their expertise in R&D and commercialization of new products gave them the ability to prove the efficacy of EMPEL with excellent internal testing capabilities.

“EMPEL delivers the best performance without the use of forever chemicals or water. We have installed the machinery and commercialized the process as we continue to explore applications for EMPEL,” Matt Williams the vice president at Haartz confirmed.

Posted: September 27, 2023

Source: Haartz Corporation

Uster Quantum Clearer 4.0 Presents The Unique Combination Of Both Capacitive And Optical Sensors In One For Yarn Clearing

USTER, Switzerland — September 27, 2023 — Uster Quantum 4.0 presents the unique combination of both capacitive and optical sensors in one. It’s the best of both worlds, for spinners. Two years after market introduction, industry feedback underlines the benefits of Uster’s new cross clearing and density detection functions.

Making a choice between the two main technologies for yarn clearing is now a thing of the past. That’s because Uster’s latest Quantum 4.0 clearers offer both capacitive and optical sensors in a concept called Smart Duo. This innovation recognizes that each sensor option has its own special functionality — so using both together brings significant advantages in quality and profitability for spinners.

Cross clearing

The Smart Duo approach uses “cross clearing,” in which both capacitive and optical sensors are applied. The capacitive signal reacts on very compact yarn faults. It offers guaranteed detection of dense thick places in the yarn, containing more fibers, as a significant mass increase. The optical sensor records a minor diameter increase in such cases. Instead it is better at detecting voluminous, visually large occurrences in the yarn, where the capacitive sensor would record only a minor increase in mass.

For maximum benefit in detecting compact and fluffy events, both signals are added in series. The cross-clearing function uses the backup of a second clearing limit after the basic clearing parameters. For example, a thick place which might not be identified as a fault under the capacitive clearing limits, would be rechecked under the extra optical clearing settings. This allows the clearer to detect thick and fluffy events that are not detected by the capacitive sensor alone. Cross clearing events, designated X, are also useful to indicate spinning conditions for housekeeping and maintenance purposes, such as fiber accumulation on roving creels or in the drafting zone.

No compromises for better fabric quality

In a practical example, the benefit of cross clearing was proven by a spinner in India producing 100-percent combed cotton yarn (Ne 30) for knitted fabrics. The goal was to improve fabric quality by reducing the remaining thick places, while maintaining the same level of clearer cuts. To ensure an independent assessment of the fabric samples, an Indian textile institute was engaged for the inspection and comparison.

For the tests, the cross clearing setting was kept at ‘medium’ and the NSL setting was opened slightly to compensate for the additional X-cuts. Finally, both articles were cleared with 92.6 cuts/100 km for the NSL T including the X-cuts and 92.5 cuts/100 km for the NSL T without cross clearing activated. The cross clearing function demonstrated improved fabric quality without the need for additional cuts. The Uster Smart Duo was able to ensure better quality without increased production costs.

Density detection

Density measurement is unique in the market, as a highlight feature introduced by the Smart Duo function of the Quantum 4.0 clearer. Density involves two separate measurements: the density channel (D) is active after the splice over a defined reference length; in addition to this temporary density measurement, a continuous density (CD) measurement takes place.

Different densities can be caused by different twist levels in the yarn. Other factors could be a mixture of compact and non-compact yarn or irregularities in compacting levels, while different yarn types and materials also have different densities. The density measurement function also prevents yarn issues caused by malfunctioning of the compacting device.

Saving a ton of yarn

In another practical example, a customer in China discovered that one of its ring spinning machines was producing high twist yarn. Some high twist yarns were mixed with regular yarns on the winding machine, with the result that 1.21 tons of yarn was contaminated and rendered unusable.

It is impossible to differentiate between yarns of different twist levels by eyesight at the ring frame stage. And until the launch of Uster Quantum 4.0 there was no way to separate yarn with different twists at the winding stage. Thanks to the density detection function, the spinner saved 1.08 tons of yarn that would otherwise have been waste. By installing the new generation of Uster yarn clearers the mill was able to rewind the yarn to separate the high twist element.

Innovated for the major challenges

Quantum 4.0 is the efficient yarn quality assurance system with Smart Clearing Technology for both standard and special applications. The accepted standards of Yarn Body, Dense area and Smart limits are further enhanced by the new Smart Duo technology. Numerous easy-to-use functions cover basic clearing, Smart Duo clearing — including cross clearing and density detection — as well as contamination clearing and special applications. Uster’s latest yarn clearing innovations provide maximum flexibility, security and prevention for today’s market challenges in spinning mills.

Posted: September 27, 2023

Source: Uster Technologies

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