Tobias Cochran, softgoods lab engineer at NASA’s Johnson Space Center
The collocated Advanced Textiles Expo and Sun Shading Expo recently gathered in Orlando, Fla., to showcase industrial, technical and sun shading textiles.
By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor
This year’s Advanced Textiles Expo — organized by the Roseville, Minn.-based Advanced Textiles Association and held at the Orange County Convention Center in Orlando, Fla. — focused on the industrial, technical and performance sectors of the textile industry. It was once again collocated with the Sun Shading Expo, which caters to and addresses the interior and exterior sun shading industry. Unfortunately, both shows may have been the victims of either unlucky scheduling or trade show fatigue as the collocated expos were held the same week as two other functional textile and composites trade shows, both of which undoubtedly siphoned off some of the usual attendees.
That said, though the number of attendees may have been smaller than usual — actual numbers for exhibitors and attendees were not available as of TW’s press time —several exhibitors shared that they had a good show experience. Scott Hilleary, president of SSM Industries, Spring City, Tenn., expressed: “We’ve had a really good show here in Orlando. We’ve participated in a number of good meetings and made some interesting introductions to potential customers that we hope will develop into opportunities.”
“This is our primary event, and we always seem to have good traffic and meaningful conversations in our booth, so yes it’s been a good show for us,” said Dan Weisenberger, Southern Regional sales manager for Seaman Corp., Wooster, Ohio.
Exhibitors included a variety of narrow- and full-width fabric suppliers, coaters and laminators, machine vendors, auxiliary components, and accessories suppliers. Each catered to the wide breadth of markets that typically fall under the advanced textiles umbrella.
The National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) again exhibited at the expo and brought what was probably the most visually interesting inflatable booth to grace the show floor. The booth showcased several examples of softgoods products and prototypes intended for use on future space missions to the moon and Mars, and maybe beyond, giving visitors a small glimpse into some of the challenges today’s space travelers face.
Tobias Cochran, an engineer in the softgoods lab at NASA’s Johnson Space Center appreciated the variety of exhibitors presented and the conversations that occurred. “We work on a lot of different prototypes, typically with rather unique requirements,” Cochran said. “So, coming to this show is great for us. It gives us the opportunity to not only show off the products we produce, but also provides us the opportunity to talk with the advanced textiles community and discuss problems we’re hoping to solve, learn about new and existing technologies, and look for possible new solutions that may help us at some point in the future.”
Events like the Advanced Textiles and Sun Shading Expos continue to provide a focused meeting space for industry newbies and veterans alike to meet and make new connections, get caught up with old friends, and maybe solve a problem or two. Ironically, regardless of how many attend a trade show, it really only takes one or two of those connections or conversations to make the trip worth the effort. As an old friend always used to say, if you’re fortunate to partake more than one or two good conversations, “…well, that’s just gravy! And man, do I like the gravy.”
The 2024 Advanced Textiles Expo will be held September 24-26, 2024, in Anaheim, Calif. Let’s hope there’s lots of gravy to be spread around again.
Successful CAMX aided by location near composite and textile manufacturers based in the southeast.
By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor
As the composites industry in North America continues to grow and blossom into newer and more creative applications, so too does CAMX, the Composites and Advanced Materials Expo. This year’s edition of CAMX was held for the first time at the World Congress Center in Atlanta, and by all accounts it was another successful event. Joan Higginbotham, a retired NASA astronaut who now is president of Joan Higginbotham Ad Astra LLC — an aerospace consulting firm — was the keynote speaker. She discussed her rewarding careers and her perseverance in becoming a rocket scientist and astronaut, which led to becoming a crew member of a 2006 space shuttle Discovery mission to the international space station. Upon returning to terra firma and after her time with NASA ended, Higginbotham embarked on a career focused on driving social impact and eventually became an aerospace consultant.
During the show, CAMX Award winners were announced with the University of Maine accepting the Combined Strength Award for its BioHome3D — a unique biobased, fully 3D-printed and fully recyclable house that included a novel printing twist. To provide better integration of design aspects, the university created a patented process for large scale 3D-printing at a 45-degree angle. A representative segment of the printed house structure was available on the show floor and drew a lot of attention during the expo.
Strongwell, Bristol, Va., received the CAMX Unsurpassed Innovation award for its 200-foot all pultruded structure, which is part of a 40-year infrastructure initiative to make wireless energy transmission more feasible. Bespoke tooling was designed and used to pultrude the individual shapes necessary to create the structure.
As always, the conference segment provided a variety of session topics ranging from “AI Machine Learning in Composites” to “Avoiding ‘Greenwashing’ Claims” and more. Poster sessions also returned and provided additional opportunities to expand one’s knowledge of the advancements in composites. However, as typically is the case, most were attracted to the activities found on the show floor where a growing number of booths and exhibiting companies displayed their wares demonstrating once again how the composites industry endeavors to keep moving forward.
The expo floor felt bigger than in past years, but those wandering the hall were able to see and speak with a bevy of industry experts from up and down the supply chain. Composites One and the Closed Mold Alliance, as has become a welcomed tradition, again used a portion of the expo floor to demonstrate molding techniques and advanced processes. CAMX also offered the CAMX Theater to provide assorted additional education opportunities to those on the expo floor. However, the real attractions were the various exhibitor booths, which held the treasures most attendees might have been searching for. A few treasures or at least items of interest included:
3D printing technologies, featured by several different exhibitors, continue to evolve and grow as a processing system into new and more complex shapes, configurations and applications.
WEAV3D, Norcross, Ga., highlighted its woven composite lattice reinforcement structure, “Rebar for Plastics” that incorporates spread tow tapes. The lattice framework of the structure allows WEAV3D to locally tune performance characteristics to meet molded component needs, reducing component costs to targeted transportation and industrial applications.
Innegra Technologies, Colfax, N. C., recently acquired by and now part of the Quantum Group, showed the versatility of its Innegra S fiber — a high modulus polyolefin multifilament yarn — in different textile and composite applications. It can be used in con-cert with other high-performance fibers such as carbon or glass, to improve toughness, durability and vibration dampening of molded parts, while also improving overall part cost and reducing weight.
Several booths featured composite parts produced with recycled content, including recycled carbon and glass. Also, work continues in developing green composites, some of which could be found within the innovation displays.
Also of interest in the innovation displays was a new composite based vertical axis wind turbine system from Be-Wind, Melbourne, Fla., that has a much smaller profile and cost than current wind turbine systems.
IFC Mercantile LLC, Warren, N. J., promoted a modified acrylic — not modacrylic — staple fiber with inherent flame-retardant properties that does not melt or drip. It is intended for flame retardant applications including protective apparel, higher temperature filtration, industrial and technical applications.
Attendee and final exhibitor numbers were not available as of TW’s press time, but the general consensus of participants and exhibitors surveyed was that this year’s CAMX was another success. And Atlanta, though colder and windier than many expected, proved again to be a viable location for such an event given its proximity to the southeast’s textile and composite manufacturers. The 2024 CAMX Expo will be held September 9-12, 2024, in San Diego, Calif. Hope to see you there!
The dyeing and finishing industry continues to make strides in developing technologies that make the processes more environmentally friendly and sustainable.
TW Special Report
Sustainability continues to be at the forefront of textile machinery and technology development and there were a plethora of sustainable fiber and yarn developments in the spotlight at the recent ITMA 2023. However, as one of the first sectors in the textile industry to receive negative attention for the high use of water and chemicals, and amounts of wastewater generated, the dyeing and finishing industry is no stranger to sustainable innovation. But despite a focus on environmentally friendly technologies for much longer than other sectors in some cases, there were plenty of innovations shown at ITMA that showed the sustainability journey continuing in dyeing and finishing.
Some trends include low or no salt dyeing, use of carbon dioxide or nitrogen in processing as well as new heating systems and water reductions all designed to make the sector more sustainable.
Following is a look at just some of the latest technologies available for dyeing and finishing.
Germany-based Thies Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG debuted the Signature Series machine, which was developed to dye cotton fabrics at the lowest possible liquor ratio using no salt. The jet-dyeing machine operates at an ultra-low liquor ratio as low as 1:2.3. For each batch, the liquor ratio is determined based on the fabric’s adsorption level plus a small quantity of water roughly equal to 0.6 liters per kilogram to ensure the pump used to circulate the dye liquor remains flooded. By removing water from the process, more of the dyestuff goes on to the fabric instead of hydrolyzing and ending up as a waste product. The machine delivers small amounts of highly concentrated dye throughout the dye cycle to ensure a level dyeing.
The machine can be used in three modes to dye using full salt, low salt or no salt. No salt dyeing reduces the effluent, which helps companies in countries with strict effluent policies; and both no and low salt processes save dyestuff and chemicals for both cost savings as well as environmental advantages. The Signature Series prepares, dyes and rinses the fabric with-out the need for intermediate processes or machines. As a high-pressure vessel, the machine also can be used to dye polyester and is a great option for a company that handles a variety of fabric substrates. An adjustable, curved J-box also means the machine can handle light and heavy fabrics in full and reduced loads. “Thies is opening a new chapter in fabric coloration,” said Verena Thies, managing shareholder, Thies. “Signature’s innovative ultra-low liquor ratio significantly enhances dye effectiveness, resulting in up to 20 per-cent decrease in dyestuff consumption. By combining Thies’ cutting-edge advancements, water usage is minimized by 25 percent.” These decreases are based on a comparison with Thies’ iMaster, the Signature’s predecessor.
DyeCoo Textile Systems BV, the Netherlands, introduced new additions to its carbon dioxide dyeing solutions at ITMA including a com-pact sampling and small-scale production machine, and a lab system for research and development. The company’s technology harnesses carbon dioxide (CO2) instead of using water to dye fabric. Under pressure, the CO2 becomes “supercritical” and acts as a solvent that easily dissolves the dye, transporting it into the fiber. The system requires no additional chemicals to help dissolve the dye, and there is a 98 percent dye uptake and therefore, very little waste. The technology also uses reclaimed CO2 from existing industrial processes where 95 percent
of the CO2 is recycled in a closed-loop process. According to DyeCoo, the use of 100-percent pure dyestuff that is evenly distributed over the fabric results in deep, vibrant colors.
Italy-based Master S.r.l. did not participate in this year’s ITMA, but the company recently introduced the Craftyflow and Craftyrope machines for dyeing denim warps. The machines feature a dual technology and can operate in a traditional manner in a natural air atmosphere or in a nitrogen atmosphere. When operating in a nitrogen atmosphere, the machine reduces the chemical consumption of hydrosulfite by 75 per-cent, caustic soda by 80 percent and water by 80 percent, according to the company. Master reports the technology already has been adopted by some notable denim producers.
Switzerland-based Benninger AG offers complete systems for continuous wet processing and discontinuous dyeing, including jet dyeing machines, dye house supply systems, caustic soda recovery plants and wastewater heat recovery systems. The company also produces tire cord processing solutions.
Benninger’s new FabricMaster discontinuous jet-dyeing machine was developed with faster processing times and economical water usage in mind. Knit or woven fabric is loaded from the side of the machine versus from the top down to avoid elongation and loading marks. The machine is available in a variety of sizes from lab size on up.
Other technologies available from Benninger include the Benninger-Küsters CPB (cold pad batch) dyeing technology, which allows knitwear to be dyed in a salt-free, cold dyeing process; and the CDS (chemical dispensing system) that can dispense up to 24 chemicals for between two and 16 machines for accurate and just-in-time supply.
The company’s SingeRay singeing machine has exceeded all expectations selling more units already this year than ever anticipated. The machine was designed with energy savings, natural gas in particular, in mind. Made in Germany, the SingeRay features four singeing positions as well as two special aluminum burners with ceramic flame guiding bricks, which offer higher production speed and higher heat intensity. Its silicium car-bide burning chambers with four cooling channels ensure complete combustion and a constant burner temperature, which also helps to keep the nozzle strip straight. The machine can be adapted to accommodate different widths of fabric and rather than just shutting down sections of the flame bar, the actual chamber width can be modified to close the gap on each side thus aiding heat conservation and saving energy.
Lexington, N.C.-based Navis Tubetex now offers Gaston Systems’ foam technology for applying a low water foamed chemistry onto or into a substrate. The technology was originally used for chemical finishing where the precision applicators allow one chemical to be applied to the front of a fabric while a different chemical is applied on the back. But further applications for this proprietary technology are developing because of the ability to reduce chemical waste, as well as water and energy consumption. The company recently collaborated with biofabrication company Modern Meadow who was searching for a partner that offered an application technology suitable for its Bio-FREED™ powered by Bio-Alloy™ plant-based protein and biopolymer. When used as a dyeing pretreatment, the bio-based technology makes the fabric much more receptive to dyes. Research is continuing, but the process is interesting for its ability to reduce energy, water, and dyes and chemicals use during dyeing. When applied to a blended textile substrate using the Gaston Technologies foam equipment, Bio-FREED results in an estimated 95-percent reduction in water, 75-percent reduction in energy, and an 80-percent reduction in the amount of dyes and chemicals needed. Navis Tubetex also offers Oasis, which is a pretreatment technology to make the fabric more receptive to dyes so the fabric may be dyed using less salt.
Italy-based Santex Rimar Group S.r.l. offers an extensive portfolio comprising six brands that cover finishing, coating, laminating, impregnation, embossing, printing, prepregs, weaving and green technologies for water treatment for drying. Federico Businaro, vice president, Group Corporate Image, noted that the company’s slogan “Eco is our attitude” appeared to attract customers to its booth during ITMA. The company invests 4 percent of its annual global turnover in research and development every year to ensure it is offering the best technologies to its customers. ITMA highlights included the Compas from Sperotto Rimar, ESC unit for the SANTASHRINK, and the Cavimelt Pro multifunctional coating machine from Cavitec presented for the first time at an international exhibition.
The Compas open-width compacting and finishing machine features a new elastic belt that is cooled using a cooling roll that is equipped with a chiller to recool and circulate the water. The compacting action is enhanced by the elasticity of the new belt, which is pretensioned at a controlled and set-table value. The fabric makes contact with the belt when it is under maxi-mum tension and as the tension is released the fabric follows the belt, thus compacting the fabric lengthwise.
The Santashrink, a tensionless shrinkage and relax drying machine for tubular and open-width knitted fabrics, has long been a Santex best-seller. The machine now can be sup-plied or retrofitted with the ESC –Energy Saving Chamber, which recovers and reuses the hot exhaust air. The company reports the use of the ESC can increase production capacity by 15 to 17 percent using the same amount of heating energy.
Lastly, the two-in-one Cavimelt Pro was designed to switch rapidly between rotogravure and full-surface coating. Based on hotmelt technology — which is inherently environmentally friendly because it uses no solvents or water — the Cavimelt Pro delivers high bonding performance even on sensitive materials and in innovative applications, according to the company.
Brückner Textile Technologies GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, presented its lines for finishing and coating at ITMA. Its latest-generation tenter, the POWER-FRAME SFP-4, features electric/hydrogen- powered heating systems, as well as intelligent software, and systems for heat recovery and exhaust air purification, among other features. Driven by the energy crisis, the company set out to develop innovative heating systems that are energy efficient and combine a variety of heating options such as gas, steam, oil or electrical heat. In addition to the Power-Frame SFP-4, Brückner offers a new industrial oven that is fully electric powered using heat pumps. These new options reduce the dependence on fossil fuels and minimize the carbon dioxide footprint for a manufacturer. The ECO-HEAT heat-recovery and ECO-AIR exhaust air purification systems may be retrofitted to older lines from Brückner, but also lines from other manufacturers. The systems feature intelligent controls and Brückner can help customers perform tests on site on a laboratory scale to assess utilization rates and efficiency before installation. The newly redesigned POWER-DRY relaxation dryer also can be heated using a high-temperature heat pump to eliminate carbon dioxide emissions.
Brückner’s ECO-COAT and OPTI-COAT 2in1 offer cus-tomers an opportunity to save resources such as water and chemicals. The Opti-Coat 2in1 combines a floating knife and knife-over-cylinder in one machine for high-precision with paste and foam coatings. The Eco-Coat is a new type of padder featuring minimum preparation quantity or residual liquor.
All Brückner’s machinery may be supplied with intelligent systems that support optimum machine settings.
THEN Smartflow TSF dyeing maachine
Germany-based Then, a member of the CHTC Fong’s International Group and a Fong’s Europe GmbH brand, introduced the hydraulic high-temperature THEN Smartflow TSF dyeing machine with a unique reel-less round shape. The machine features a smart fabric transport system to ensure even dyeing; a heat exchanger to quickly and efficiently heat the dye liquor; and optimized chemical, dyestuff and salt dosing to reduce waste and optimize results. The Smartflow TSF has a low liquor ratio of 1:2.5 with a full load of man-made fiber fabrics. “We take the global green deal seriously and analyze production and working processes for their environmental impact,” said Fong’s Europe Director of Sales and Marketing Richard Fander. “The chambers of the Smartflow TSF can accommodate variable loads in terms of both weight and material type down to 40 kg for extremely flexible processing, and each unit can be equipped with up to six chambers, in order to fully maximize productivity, while taking up to 40-percent less floor space than competing systems. Overall, the machine is a reliable and efficient solution for textile dyeing that can help textile manufacturers reduce their environmental impact while improving their processes.” THEN also offers the Supratec LTM dyeing machine suitable for sensitive highly elastic and delicate man-made fiber fabrics. The long tube-shaped machine design can be tailor-made for customers with one or two nozzles for full filling with acceptable fast turn times. Each kier has a capacity of up to 200 kilograms and the machine runs at 80 to 600 meters per minute.
Germany-based Goller, a member of the CHTC Fong’s International Group and a Fong’s Europe GmbH brand, promoted its KnitExcellence package for wet finishing treatment of knit textiles at ITMA. Comprised of the Knit Complexa for bleaching, Knit Mercer for mercerization, Knit Economica for dyeing, and the Sintensa washing range, the package offers a manufacturer a complete range of machinery for processing knit fabrics. The company also introduced the new Oxidator module for all types of woven fabrics. The machine features a washing compartment with an inter-changeable, modular design that can be modified to meet a variety of washing requirements to produce different fabric qualities. The unit combines powerful, adjustable angle spray washing with up-down roller washing. The design also can house 25-percent more fabric than a conventional drum washer.
Xorella’s new XO automation system
Another member of the CHTC Fong’s International Group and Fong’s Europe brand, Xorella, Switzerland, launched the XO Solid machine series, as well as XO Automation for the double XO Select conditioning machine series. The XO Solid was designed to complement the company’s existing XO Smart, XO Trend and XO Select yarn vacuum conditioning and heat setting machines. XO Solid features a cubical design with a high loading space of 1,800 millimeters (mm) x 1,700 mm x 4,000 mm, which allows six units to be manually loaded on the floor level. The “plug and play” machine includes all components preinstalled on a single frame for easy installation at the customer site. Xorella’s XO Automation system is a roller conveyor technology for loading and unloading two-door XO Select condi-tioning machines. A customer may also opt to add a pallet wrapping machine, weighing station, label printer, safety fence and security system to complete the line. XO Automation fills the gap between the XO Select moving platform and the fully automated transportation system from spinning hall to warehouse.
Since its introduction at ITMA 2015, Baldwin’s non-contact spray application system for textile finishing and remoistening has started to take off.
The TexCoat™ G4 from St. Louis-based Baldwin Technology Co. Inc. has its origins in a spray system used in the paper industry. Since its introduction at ITMA 2015, this non-con-tact spray application system for textile finishing and remoistening has started to take off. “Since its introduction at ITMA 2015 in Milan, global textile finishers have embraced TexCoat and are reaping the benefits,” said Rick Stanford, Baldwin’s vice president of Global Business Development, Textiles. “They have been able to increase profitability, cut energy use and reduce their carbon footprint in addition to exercising precision control with our patented precision spray technology.” The spray system vastly reduces water, chemicals and energy consumption with water consumption decreasing by as much as 50 percent compared to traditional pad application processes, and energy costs dipping by 35 to 50 percent. The technology also allows a manufacturer to finish the fabric on one or both sides at the same time depending on production requirements. Graniteville Specialty Fabrics, Graniteville, S.C., recently installed TexCoat technology at its operation.
Baldwin also offers the Plasma Pure treatment for textiles, which features ceramic electrodes that generate an air plasma to treat the fabric surface and improve absorption and adhesion properties of the fabric. The treatment enhances dyeing, coating and lamination results with uniform dyeing and greater bonding strength, among other advantages.
Xorella’s new XO automation system
Post-ITMA, Germany-based A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG reported it had welcomed a high number of visitors to its booth and had secured major orders from manufacturers in Central and South America, Pakistan and Italy.
At ITMA, the company highlighted its Montex tenter, which thanks to heat recovery and energy optimization options offers overall energy savings of 40 percent compared to convention tenters. “Exhaust air treatment on [tenter] frames has posed particular challenges over the years, since the air can contain significant amounts of oil, fiber and even wax particles that may see emissions limits being reached in the processing of certain fabrics,” explained Monforts Managing Director Gunnar Meyer. “In addressing this issue, we are incorporating the MonforClean module directly into the [tenter] frame. With this addition, the waste heat from the drying process is used to preheat the drying air, resulting in a radical reduction in the conventional heat supply required compared to gas and thermal oil heating.” Ontario-based nonwovens producer Albarrie was one of the first companies to install a Monfort Montex tenter equipped with the full range of MonforClean technologies.
“We were also very pleased with the interest in the Montex®Coat, the latest addition to our range of technologies, which we displayed in Milan,” said Nicole Croonenbroek, marketing manager. The Montex Coat may be used to apply PVC coatings, solvent coatings, pigment dyes, and minimal application surface and low penetration treatments. The flexible system accommodates knife and roller coating as well as screen printing for quick changes between fabric runs while still operating in an economical manner. The Montex Coat now features automatic edge limiters to immediately adapt to new production widths. The Montex Coat serves a very diverse number of markets and enables full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments as well as solvent coatings. Knife coating, roller coating or screen printing can also all be carried out with this system. As such, it provides the ultimate in flexibility and the ability to switch quickly from one fabric run to the next, without compromising on the economical use of energy or raw materials.
France-based Superba S.a.S., known historically for its heat-setting solutions and today a member of the Belgium-based Vandewiele Group, has developed a new modular version of its MCD3 space-dyeing machine for carpet and rug yarns. The MCD3M can be scaled on demand in blocks of two or three modules to meet a customer’s needs. This modularity enables a manufacturer to control the cost of production, energy consumption and waste. Similar to its predecessor, the MCD3M can handle a layer of 72 ends of bulk continuous filament or spun nylon, polyester, wool or polyacrylonitrile yarns and blends. A high-pressure spraying technique is used for even application.
Dyes, Auxiliaries And Finishes
As well as producers of dyeing and finishing machinery, companies producing dyes, chemicals and auxiliaries were present at ITMA to share their latest sustainable innovations. Italy-based ERCA Textile Chemistry introduced a new generation of auxiliary chemicals made from used vegetable oil; and Officina39, also based in Italy, showcased its Ecobinder R Series binder made from 100-percent post-consumer recycled polymer obtained from recycled windshields and other types of laminated and safety glass, and Recycrom™ dyestuff products derived from 100-percent recycled used clothing, fibrous mate-rial and textile scraps (See “Just A Few Of The ‘Cool’ Things On Display —The ITMA 2023 Edition,” TW, July/August 2023).
Avient debuted new sustainable additions to its MagnaColours ITO range of dyes, chemicals and functional finishes.
Avient Specialty Inks, Kennesaw, Ga., has expanded its MagnaColours® ITO dye range with the ITOFIX EVO reactive dyes. When used on cellulose fibers, the dyes reduce the processing cycle time and may be used at a lower dyeing temperature because of faster fixation capabilities, according to the company. The range is currently available in 10 different shades and is formulated to reduce hazardous substances without compromising on performance. Avient reports its Taoyuan production facility has achieved full compliance with the Global Recycled Standard 4.0 and also is recognized as a bluesign® System Partner as a provider of colorants and additives for spin dyeing.
Switerland-based HeiQ highlighted its biobased textile innovations for allergen reduction, odor control and cooling during ITMA. The company reports its technologies are designed to provide “superpowers” to fabrics, adding functionality while remaining a sustainable choice. Some of the technologies available include:
HeiQ Allergen Tech, which confers protection against inanimate allergens such as house dust mite matter and pet allergens in home textiles;
HeiQ Cool, a dual-action cooling technology that offers up to a 5.4°F cooler fabric temperature compared to an untreated fabric for enhanced thermal and moisture comfort;
HeiQ Mint, a plant-based odor management solution that has no impact on breathability, color, hand or wicking properties and also is suitable for a wide range of applica-tions from apparel to home textiles on a variety of fiber types; and
HeiQ Fresh, a silver-free odor con-trol technology that tackles smells by adsorbing volatile organic com-pounds responsible for the odor.
First-time ITMA exhibitor Fuze Technologies, Salt Lake City, reported an extremely successful show. The company offers FUZE, a silver- and water-based, non-ionic and chemical-free technology that can be applied to textiles to confer permanent protection from odor-causing and infectious-disease-carrying bacteria. The patented laser ablation manufacturing process allows the company to create particles of a precise size and shape to fit the application. Because FUZE uses pure silver particles that are non-ionic, no silver ions are released and therefore there is no negative effect on the environment and the chemistry is not harmful to humans. The technology requires no chemical binders or surfactants and is applied using a light mist. It also may be blended with other treatments such as whiteners and softeners. According to the company, testing has shown the treatment to remain more than 99-percent effective on textile products for more than 100 washes. The initially expensive technology was originally only available on high-end products, but a boost in interest as a result of the COVID pandemic dropped the price of the technology substantially and it now is moving into many more medical, nonwovens and hospitality products.
Related Technologies, Innovations
Germany-based Pulcra Chemicals GmbH introduced the combined pretreatment and dyeing process, Sustineri Coloring, developed in partnership with the Spain-based fashion group Inditex. Based on newly developed chemicals, the process allows one bath to be used for pretreatment and dyeing for dark, medium and light shades of cotton and polycotton blends using an exhaust method. According to the companies, studies performed in mills that are already using the process show that Sustineri Coloring can reduce pretreatment and dyeing time by up to 60 percent. In addition, water consumption is reduced by up to 80 percent and energy consumption by up to 60 percent compared to traditional processing methods.
Jeanologia specializes in disruptive technologies for processing denim
Inditex also collaborated with Spain-based Jeanologia S.L. to develop the Air Fiber Washer, a solution to tackle the release of microfibers from garments during finishing before they are sold to the consumer. Jeanologia also offers the new Atmos, an atmospheric washing process that pairs its G2 ozone technology with the new patented INDRA system to pro-duce a stonewashed, authentic vintage look on denim without using water, chemicals or pumice stones (See “Just A Few Of The ‘Cool’ Things On Dis-play — The ITMA 2023 Edition,” TW, July/August 2023).
ITMA 2023 showcased the latest developments in the still-growing digital printing arena.
By Dr. Lisa P. Chapman, Technical Editor; and Kerry McGuire King
ITMA 2023, aptly named “Transforming the World of Textiles”, focused on sustainability achieved in three innovation areas that are directly related to digital printing — Advanced Material, Artificial Intelligence and Automation. This year was the largest iteration of the show with more than 111,000 attendees from 143 countries (2019: 105,000) 1,709 exhibitors from 47 countries (2019: 1,717), and 200,000 square meters of exhibition space (2019: 114,500 square meters). Digital printing was again heavily featured at ITMA 2023, with an entire hall devoted to this technology. The digital print market grew substantially since the last ITMA. There was a slowdown during the pandemic, but now there is a return to a growth market.
ITMA 2015 saw a transformative breakthrough with the development of single pass printers, capable of printing at speeds up to 70 meters per minute (m/min). Surprisingly, these high-speed printers were not featured as prominently at ITMA 2023. Rather, the emphasis was on the optimization and maturation of scan type printers with a focus on sustainability, as well as optimization of the printing process to improve quality and reduce colorants, chemicals and time. Scan type printers, while still not as fast as single pass printers, are now much faster than what was shown at ITMA 2019, reaching speeds of 15 to 20 linear yards per minute. The increased speed of scan type printers is achieved by stacking print heads. Although slower, scan type printers also offer greater flexibility, and in some instances higher quality. The high speed of single pass printers means approximately 20 percent of designs cannot be achieved, particularly those prints where more saturated, larger solid print areas are required. Scan type printers are cheaper and take up less floor space and so it’s possible to have several on the factory floor printing using different colorants on a variety of substrates. Scanning technologies offer manufacturing flexibility and redundancy, which is critical for print on demand environments where ultra-short run printing includes quick turns across a variety of materials and product types.
Scanning solutions offer the ability to scale manufacturing over time through the addition of machines and the ability to “step up” to the next machine level. This is a strategy offered by a number of vendors.
Fabric featuring metallic ink produced on Epson’s Monna Lisa ML-16000/HY
Roll-To-Roll/Direct-To-Fabric Printers
At ITMA, Japan-based Epson showcased the Monna Lisa series —widely considered to be one of the premium technologies for the high-est resolution and highest-quality prints — including the ML 8000, 16000, 32000 and 64000 machines for which the model number corresponds to the number of printheads and therefore throughput capability. Models and capabilities include:
ML 8000, which prints with a set of reactive and acid dyes, called REACID, for fiber blended substrates, or for more flexibility if for example, a customer wanted to print substrates compatible with acid for one print run and reactive for another.
ML 13000, which offers inline pre- and post-treatments with pigment inks. The pretreatment liquid, ejected through one of the print-heads, jets a surfactant agent to pull the ink to the surface of the fabric, which helps to make the print more colorful. Another print-head jets a binder for increased fastness properties, while another printhead jets a softener to improve the hand of the fabric.
ML 16000 hybrid, which combines piezo-electric printheads with microvalves. The printheads jet pigment colorant and the microvalves are able to jet paste for effects such as metallic and white pigmented color.
ML 3200, which has a printable width of 340 centimeters and 32 printheads. This printer can be configured to print two pieces of fabric simultaneously, thus increasing productivity and reducing energy and resource consumption.
Italy-based EFI Reggiani showed the opportunity to step up in machine width with its Hyper model available as a 1.8-, 2.4-, or 3.4-meter-wide machine. Equipped with 72 printheads and ink recirculation up to the nozzle plate, it can print two pass, production quality at speeds up to 13 linear m/min on a 1.5-meter-wide roll. The widest machine also offers dual-roll capability to print two different, narrower substrates at once at throughput speeds of up to 20 m/minute. This is an interesting concept, shown by Italy-based Durst at the last ITMA show, which requires special machine and software engineering.
Italy-based Dover Industries Italy (DII) (MS Printing Solutions & JK Group brands), also featured scaling opportunities within its scanning line. At the top end, the Mini Lario has been upgraded and now has eight rows with up to eight heads per row and can print at a speed of 1,000 meters per hour. This is one of the fastest scan type printers on the market. DII (MS & JK brands) reports that the Mini Lario can be precisely color matched to production on the Lario to enable longer production runs of the same design and colorway should the need arise.
DII (Ms & JK brands) JP7 printer set up with pigment ink and a polymerization dryer.
In addition, DII (MS & JK brands) showed the reengineered JP7 machine and system that significantly improves the sustainability of the entire printing process. The center of this optimized, sustainable printing system is Digistar Pigment 4K, a patent pending colorant set that eliminates pretreatment, thereby reducing chemical and water usage, as well as time and cost. The printer also includes a new zero-wastewater recirculation system that reduces up to 90 percent of water waste typically generated in a 40-hour working cycle. To further optimize a sustainable printing process, a new ink recirculation system from DII (MS & JK brands) prevents nozzle blocking, which is a primary cause of print fabric defects that leads to fabric and colorant wastage. Gradus, its in-line drying system, ensures minimal energy consumption; and because the modular system allows curing and drying all in one, carbon dioxide emissions are reduced.
Austria-based Zimmer Austria Inc. — a producer of machines for textile and carpet finishing including digital printing systems, flat and rotary screen printing, coating systems, steaming, washing and drying — showcased the Colaris3 high-performance pretreatment, digital printing and colorant systems for applications that require colorant penetration through the substrate such as carpeting, towels, and plush or heavy automotive and home décor fabrics. The Colaris series of printers can be used with a variety of colorants such as reactive, disperse, acid, pigment and vat. Inline pre-and post-treatment systems can be added to improve print quality and increase ink penetration. The Colaris printer has 16 printheads for a larger color gamut, increased speed, or flexibility to run multiple types of colorants. Zimmer has added a vision camera detection system to its Colaris digital printers. The Colaris-vision I – Match Print to Cut includes individual piece goods recognition and outline masking with automated computation of the print mask positioning for design customization.
Zimmer’s Colaris-vision II – Match to Print is a roll-to-roll print process with seamless detection of a pre-imagined fabric followed by a registered print. The system has an automated distortion compensation that ensures the print is fitted precisely into the given structure on a web. The design can be fitted exactly onto the substrate despite of any weft misalignment or shrinkage from fabric preparation in the pre-print process.
Advanced Materials
As part of the textile industry’s cur-rent focus on sustainability, vendors continue to ramp up investment in the development of solutions that reduce water, chemical and material waste. Digital dyeing, inline pretreatment, and pigment printing all have the potential to improve sustainability. In particular, pigment colorant was featured by a large number of vendors. As pigment technology matures, com-petition is increasing in a way that is leading to improvements in print quality and innovations in chemistry and application. Further adoption of ink recirculation strategies is a contributing factor to the success of pigments and this idea was highlighted by EFI Reggiani in its Hyper system. Ink recirculation was also mentioned by DII (MS & JK brands) in regard to its redesigned JP7 technology in combination with the Digistar Pigment 4K.
Integrated softening and pretreatment innovations from multiple solution providers is paving the way for greater acceptance of pigment printed fabric. Japan-based Kyocera Corp., a key supplier of industrial printhead technology to textile developers, has joined the mix with the introduction of Forearth technology, and highlighted the ability to print on a broad range of fabrics.
Atexco’s double-sided printing technology uses a camera and imaging software to scan the printed fabric for alignment and ink penetration for precise printing on the reverse side of the fabric.
Other advanced material innovations included China-based Atexco’s double-sided printing technology and reactive colorant that does not require a post treatment for cotton substrates.
Overall, vendors illustrated the compatibility of digital printing with tricky-to-manage substrates including knits and lightweight apparel fabrics. This was particularly evident in the pigment printing area that had previously demonstrated poor fabric hand and color quality. New pigment technologies are opening-up the possibility for pigment printed fabric adoption in a broader range of product areas and markets.
Special Effects
Advances in pigment technology also are enabling special effect printing. During the show, Israel-based Kornit Digital Ltd. demonstrated a white pigment capability that enables imaging on colored grounds and when combined with its Xdi technology, creates a unique, raised, textural look.
Epson has taken this theme one step further with the introduction of the ML 16000 Hybrid machine that combines piezo-electric printheads with microvalves. The printheads jet pigment colorant while the microvalves jet paste to create effects including metallic and white pigmented color. Epson’s Genesta water-based inks guarantee color accuracy and fastness properties, while the special pastes — developed and produced by Italy-based Epson Como Printing Technologies S.r.l.— create the special effects.
Alchemie Technology’s Endeavour™ is a breakthrough waterless dyeing process.
Digital Dyeing And Finishing
Although pigments offer a sustainability advantage over dye-based colorants for digital printing, digital application methods for solid colors offer the potential for a much greater reduction in environmental footprint. Toward that end, England-based Alchemie Technology’s Endeavour™ digital dyeing technology applies liquid colorants to fabrics using a unique non-contact high-energy jetting of nano-droplets, delivering exceptionally homogeneous color throughout the fabric. This breakthrough waterless, low-carbon, digital dyeing technology, supports dye houses in reducing costs — dramatically cutting energy and carbon dioxide emissions by 85 percent, water use by 95 percent, and also eliminates wastewater pollution in the dyeing process.
Alchemie’s Novara™ digital textile finishing technology delivers sustainability with precision digital application of functional finishes to textiles. Novara is a non-contact, low energy, low chemistry, digital finishing solution that enables textile finishing houses to dramatically reduce their carbon and chemical footprint and reduce costs, using 85-percent less energy and up to 50-percent less chemistry compared to traditional methods, according to Alchemie. Novara delivers precisely defined digitally controlled finishes only where needed. It also enables product innovations including single-side finishing, 2D finish to shape, and allows multiple finishes to be applied to one fabric in a way that is not possible using traditional methods of immersing the entire fabric in a chemical bath. In addition, Alchemie also offers Discovery, a laboratory system that replicates production machines, and may be used for recipe development, color matching and new material process development.
Direct-To-Film Printing
Shenzhen Inkbank Graphic Technology Co. Ltd. (Inkbank), China, and Japan-based Mimaki showed direct-to-film (DTF) technologies for rapidly printing garments.
DTF printing eliminates the need for fabric selection, plate making and pretreatment as compared to the time and resource intensive processes required for silk screen, heat transfer— rubber sheet method — or direct-to-garment (DTG) printing. The DTF process is simple, and in this way, offers a sustainability advantage. First, the design is printed directly onto a special transfer film which is then sprinkled with hot-melt powder. Once heated and dried, the transfer sheet can be applied using a heat press. The one drawback is the waste created because a transfer material is used.
Mimaki offers the TXF150 for DTF. The PHT50 inks used for this printing process are heat transfer water-based pigments that are OEKO-TEX certified. The inks are safe and meet the criteria for ecologically responsible textile manufacturing, according to the company.
Artificial Intelligence And Automation
As digital textile printing technology matures and adoption of complex, high-speed printing systems grows, solution providers also are demonstrating greater investment in the creation of intelligent systems that ease technology management by enabling monitoring and optimized printer performance. Software applications are aimed at providing visibility that helps reduce machine downtime and operating cost, while minimizing waste. As customers invest in multiple print systems to scale print capacity, software strategies for automated system calibration and fleet management also are becoming increasingly relevant. Additionally, to help drive growth in adoption, technology providers are advancing digital workflow solutions designed to assist with order management and automation of repetitive file processing tasks.
A preview of the DII (MS & JK brands) System Plus Software, a new print management system, exemplifies the trend toward intelligent systems. The technology integrates calibration, printing software and ink for a robust, time saving solution. Used with DII (MS & JK brands) pigments and printers, the software system reduces calibration time by 50 percent, increases the color yield by up to 20 percent and increases the brightness of the colors by up to 15 percent. This system’s machine learning platform, the first-of-its-kind to be commercially available for digital printing, enables information to be gathered during the printing process to optimize current and future print runs. This software has the potential to eliminate print defects and reduce the amount of colorant needed.
DII (MS & JK brands) innovation is focused on a highly optimized manufacturing process. During ITMA, the company demonstrated the combined significance of advancing printer hardware and workflow in a working environment by way of organized plant visits to the Italy-based IMPRIMA printing mill.
During ITMA, interested parties were able to tour the IMPRIMA print mill to view Dover Industries Italy (MS Printing Solutions & JK Group brands) technologies in action.
IMPRIMA is a cluster of digital print operations with the capability to print 35 million meters of fabric annually. IMPRIMA largely serves the European luxury market, but also prints for U.S.-based brands such as Walmart, Target, Macy’s and Ralph Lauren, among other brands.
Kornit promoted its QualiSet technology, which is described as a smart, autonomous approach to calibration aimed at printhead registration, nozzle testing, compensation and color consistency. Paired with the previously introduced Konnect system for monitoring printer performance and consumables, the company now offers greater ability to manage the print operation at the fleet level. Production monitoring was also high-lighted by Epson for printers connected to the cloud-based PORT system, and by EFI Reggiani which showed the Query software solution that collects data and enables analysis and tracking of printer performance, cost and sustainability metrics such as water and energy consumption.
In addition, robust solutions for automating portions of the production process to reduce or eliminate labor are emerging in the digital printing sector. Kornit showed a fully automated DTG printing solution that reduces labor and increases production speed. Kornit’s Apollo DTG printer can print up to 400 garments per hour. Kornit’s patented wet-on-wet printing system eliminates the need for pretreatment. The Apollo, geared toward t-shirt printers who seek a near-shoring option, features in-line heat fixation, and an auto-mated loading and unloading system.
Harnessing Digital Printing Innovations
It was exciting to see the growth in digital printing technologies at ITMA 2023. Even more impressive was seeing some of these technologies successfully implemented in a production setting at IMPRIMA. Held in Milan, ITMA 2023 was located just a short distance from the Como region of Italy, long considered the luxury printing capital of the world. This region has changed from almost entirely rotary and flat screen printing to digital printing, allowing the industry to service sectors beyond the luxury market. It serves as a great example of harnessing the full capabilities of digital printing innovations.
Editor’s Note: Kerry Maguire King has more than 25 years working in the digital printing field. King played a role in the development of Spoonflower’s manufacturing platform, and currently is working as a consultant while continuing her education in the Ph.D. program at the Wilson College of Textiles at North Carolina State University, Raleigh, N.C.
MUMBAI, India — November 30, 2023 — Canopy, an environment focused not-for-profit entity, has released its annual Hot Button Report, which enables fashion brands and retailers to robustly assess suppliers of Man Made Cellulosic Fibers (MMCF) for their forest fiber sourcing.
Commenting on the ranking, H.K. Agarwal, managing director, Grasim Industries Ltd., and Business Director Birla Cellulose, said, “This esteemed recognition serves as confirmation of Birla Cellulose’s steadfast dedication and commitment to improve sustainable wood sourcing practices, forest conservation, innovation, next-generation fiber solutions, and transparent operations across the entire value chain.”
Birla Cellulose, along with other global MMCF producers, has also supported calls for implementation of the Conventional on Biological Diversity’s commitment to conserve at least 30 percent of terrestrial ecosystems by 2030
The company actively collaborates with brands and supply chain partners, innovators, and orchestrators such as Canopy, Fashion for Good, and Circular Fashion Partnership for scaling up circularity.
“A hearty congratulations to Aditya Birla for securing the top spot in Canopy’s 2023 Hot Button Report,” said Nicole Rycroft, Canopy’s executive director. “We commend their hard work to remove Ancient and Endangered Forests from the MMCF supply chain and are encouraged by their consistent progress to bring Next Gen fibers to market at scale.”
Posted: November 30, 2023
Source: Birla Cellulose, the pulp and fibre business of the Aditya Birla Group
Techtextil Innovation Award – Photo: Messe Frankfurt / Jean-Luc Valentin
FRANKFURT AM MAIN, Germany — November 30, 2023 — The international textile industry is ready to look to the future at Techtextil and Texprocess from 23 to 26 April 2024. These two leading trade fairs are hotspots for innovations, textile solutions and networking. With more than 1,600 exhibitors from around 50 countries, Techtextil and Texprocess reflect the extraordinary degree of innovation prevailing in the sectors.
Innovation, research, an exchange of ideas and information, inspiration and successful business transactions — these are the promises made to the international industry by Techtextil and Texprocess in Frankfurt am Main from 23 to 26 April 2024. The large number of current exhibitor registrations – over 1,600 from around 50 countries — confirms the relevance of the two trade fairs for the textile sector. There, companies can look forward to meeting buyers and top decision makers from 95 (Techtextil 2022) and 86 (Texprocess 2022) countries. In addition to familiar and high-grade formats, such as the Techtextil Innovation Award and the Texprocess Innovation Award, as well as the Techtextil Forum and the Texprocess Forum, the coming editions will be distinguished by several new special areas, e.g., the Nature Performance area and the Future Materials special show at Techtextil, and the Denim Hub and an Emerging Markets area at Texprocess.
“The sectors are undergoing a rapid process of change. Participants at Techtextil and Texprocess will have the opportunity to stay in tune with the times, to present innovations to an audience of experts from all over the world and to find new solutions and business partners”, says Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies, Messe Frankfurt.
The spectrum of textile solutions presented at Techtextil is unparalleled worldwide. Visitors can discover an extraordinary range of products in twelve areas of application, which are used in many different industries — from automotive to fashion, and from medicine to construction. The latest developments in fibers and yarns, nonwovens, composites, coated textiles, technologies, etc., will be presented by companies at Techtextil, in many cases for the first time in public. The companies registered to date include Carrington Textiles (Great Britain), Concordia Textiles (Belgium), Datacolor (Belgium), Everest Textile (Taiwan), Franz Miederhoff (Germany), Groz-Beckert (Germany), Kuraray (Japan), Kusumgar Corporates (India), Outlast Technologies (Germany), Sandler (Germany), Tanatex Chemicals (Netherlands) and Textilcolor (Switzerland).
Texprocess is the international platform for exhibitors of the latest machinery, equipment, processes and services for manufacturing garments, as well as textile and flexible materials. The spectrum of products to be seen ranges from sewing technology and materials, embroidery technology, fastening, CAD/CAM and cutting to recycling technologies and much more. The companies that have announced their participation in Texprocess 2024 include Amann & Söhne (Germany), Assyst/Style3D (Germany), ASTAS (Turkey), Barudan Co, Ltd (France), Brother Internationale Industriemaschinen (Germany), bullmer (Germany), Dürkopp Adler (Germany), IMA (Italy), Kai Corporation (Japan), Morgan Tecnica (Italy), natific (Switzerland), Orox Group (Italy) and Tajima Industries (Japan).
Econogy: sustainability as a driver of innovation
Sustainability and economic efficiency go together and this objective is being promoted by the global trade fairs of Messe Frankfurt – the Texpertise Network – with the reorientation of the company’s sustainable formats. This encompasses not only the overarching heading, ‘Econogy’, which links ecology and economics, but above all the standardisation of sustainable evaluation criteria for the selection of resource-saving products, processes and exhibitors. Econogy thus creates transparency and comparability across the board. To this end, Messe Frankfurt works together with independent, external sustainability experts to take account of the latest approved seals and certificates, and to integrate the Sustainable Development Goals into the checks.
The services associated with Econogy at Techtextil and Texprocess include the Econogy Finder, a directory of certified suppliers of sustainable products, which enables visitors to head straight for them.
The best way to find ideal sustainable solutions is within the framework of an exchange of ideas and information, and the Econogy Talks offer the perfect setting for this.
Led by experts in the field of sustainability, the aim of the Econogy Tours at Techtextil is to introduce visitors to selected exhibitors of sustainable products and to give them the opportunity to obtain knowledge and ideas at first hand.
Can nature and performance be combined in a fibre or a material? Of course they can! At Techtextil, manufacturers of natural fibres and materials, as well as bio-based fibres and materials with future-oriented functional properties for a huge range of applications, will be showing what natural textiles can do. The sustainable performers can be found in a special Nature Performance area in the Fibres & Yarns product segment. A highlight for visitors is sure to be the presentation of progressive material innovations by renowned trend and future agency, Franklin Till, in the special Future Materials show.
Recycling is also gaining in importance with the increased relevance of sustainability and the growing appreciation and scarcity of resources, which gives it a unique potential for development and innovation. With the curated special show Recyclable Fibres & Yarns in Hall 9.1 and Recyclable Materials in Hall 12.1, Techtextil and Texprocess are putting the spotlight on future-oriented, reusable materials and recycling technologies.
The future at a glance: Techtextil Innovation Awards and Texprocess Innovation Awards
The Innovation Awards are popular highlights at both events. Two high-calibre juries of experts honour the latest, most intelligent and outstanding innovations from the industries. The awards reflect the future of the sectors in terms of new ideas and developments, which offer solutions for the various aspects of digitalisation and artificial intelligence, as well as sustainability, new materials and processes. The deadline for receipt of entries is 15 December 2023.
Up to date at the Techtextil Forum and Texprocess Forum
Visitors wanting to expand their knowledge, discover the latest research results, new product developments and progressive innovations should not miss the Techtextil Forum in Hall 9.1 and the Texprocess Forum in Hall 9.0. There, they will find a high-grade, curated program on the latest themes, knowledge transfer and an exchange of ideas and information with renowned experts from research and industry. The spectrum of subjects covered at the Techtextil Forum ranges from bio-based functional materials to intelligent textiles. At the Texprocess Forum, it runs from automation to supply chains.
Start-up stars: tomorrow’s A-listers
Ambitious founders and young entrepreneurs have the chance to present their companies in the start-up areas at Techtextil and Texprocess, to find business partners and investors and thus carve out their way in the sector. For them, the leading trade fairs are the perfect place to put forward their ideas, to find partners and investors and thus find their way into the market. Young, innovative start-up stars show their products to an international audience in the attention-grabbing ‘Textile Production’ and ‘Functional Materials’ start-up areas at Techtextil and at the ‘Textile Processing Technologies’ area at Texprocess.
All about denim
At Texprocess, the Denim Hub puts the spotlight on sustainable jeans production, processing and recycling. Exhibitors offer first-class insights into their circular strategies while, in the Denim Talks, visitors can learn about sustainable approaches to washing, destroying, bleaching, lasering, dyeing, recycling and upcycling and customising jeans.
Curtain up on Performance Apparels on Stage
In the Performance Apparels on Stage special show, Techtextil 2024 presents the multifarious functionalities of textiles for the garment industry. Against this impressive background, the show illustrates the use of technical textiles in the apparel and fashion industry, in the field of sportswear and leisurewear and professional and safety clothing.
Emerging Markets Area: finding global potential
Texprocess 2024 sees the first Emerging Markets area with invitations going specifically to organizations from countries with a high development potential in the field of textile processing. In the Emerging Markets Lounge, visitors and exhibitors can hold discussions with the delegations, present their business ideas, intensify contacts and lever new potential.
Techtextil and Texprocess
The events Techtextil and Texprocess will be held April 23-26, 2024.
HATTERSHEIM, Germany — November 30, 2023 — The Trevira CS® brand will be presenting itself with 17 top customers and partners as well as an innovative special exhibition at Heimtextil, which takes place in Frankfurt from January 9 to 12, 2024. The joint stand is located in Hall 4.0/Stand C15 together with the Indorama Ventures PCL stand.
Trevira CS customers and partners will be exhibiting their flame retardant products and new collections for the home textiles and contract market at individual stands on the joint booth. Visitors can discover innovations in the areas of yarn production, woven and knitted fabrics and interior solar shading. The exhibitors at the Trevira CS stand will represent all textile applications with their products, from lightweight curtains to heavy upholstery fabrics. In addition to the yarn and fabric manufacturers, one exhibit is dedicated to presenting a traditional craft at the Trevira CS joint stand. The trimming maker Jende Manufaktur will be demonstrating the manufacture of trimmings from flame retardant, UV-stable, spun-dyed Trevira® yarns as well as from materials from the co-exhibiting yarn manufacturers.
The following Trevira CS customers and partners will be exhibiting a wide variety of flame retardant products at the joint stand in January:
Casalegno Tendaggi S.r.l., Chamatex SAS, F.lli Baroni s.r.l., FIDIVI Tessitura Vergnano S.p.A., Hoftex Färberei GmbH, Ilcat by Lei Tsu s.r.l., Jende Manufaktur GbR, Lodetex S.p.A., Mattes & Ammann GmbH & Co. KG, Mottura S.p.A., Pozzi Arturo S.p.A., PUGI R.G. S.R.L., Tessitura Mario Ghioldi & C. s.r.l., Tintoria Sala s.r.l., Torcitura Fibre Sintetiche S.p.A., Torcitura Padana S.p.A. and Wintex S.r.l..
#treviracsCore – sparking emotions
The Trevira CS special showcase 2024 will be held under the motto #treviracsCore. The term “core” means core element/heart and is used in conjunction with a hashtag and another defining term in the digital media for a trend/lifestyle that people feel connected to and follow.
This time, the special show is about demonstrating what Trevira CS fabrics are capable of achieving in addition to their functionality and performance in the design of textile spaces. From a sustainably furnished lounge, to a luxurious interior or a casual outdoor area, to a cozy retreat — Trevira CS creates a high-end aesthetic, an atmosphere that inspires and appeals to our emotions – and does so with fabrics that are safe.
For the design of the special show, all Trevira CS customers were invited to submit their latest Trevira CS products as part of the annual Trevira CS fabric competition. A total of well over 200 articles from more than 50 customers were available. This year’s special show will also feature trimmings made from Trevira CS yarns.
The special show includes 4 themes for which the Trevira CS fabrics were submitted.
Theme 1: #MySustainableStay
A “Sustainability Lounge” invites visitors to stay and linger. Here, all information on Trevira CS sustainability topics is presented, featuring the latest Trevira CS eco textiles and fabrics made from chemically recycled raw material.
Theme 2: #MyOutdoorTimeout
Trevira CS fabrics are used in this installation to create an outdoor scene. A wide variety of outdoor materials will be used here.
Theme 3: #MyHiddenTreasures
The Trevira CS portfolio available on the market holds a veritable treasure trove of luxurious fabrics with which to create extraordinary, sophisticated interiors. Here, visitors can expect a staging with exquisite, fine fabrics.
Theme 4: #MyCozyCosmos
Everyone can create their own personal kingdom, their place of retreat, with Trevira CS fabrics. Materials with a pleasant, comfortable feel are in demand here. This scene could also be well imagined as a private living ambience.
Director Marketing Trevira CS Anke Vollenbröker, said: “We are delighted that we will once again be present at Heimtextil with a large joint stand together with 17 Trevira CS partners. This year, with our special presentation #treviracsCore, we want to show that Trevira CS fabrics offer everything you need to follow your preferred personal interior lifestyle – with textiles that are safe.”
BRISTOL, England — November 30, 2023 — Fast-growing microplastic filtration technology company Matter has bolstered its senior leadership team with a new chief commercial officer and chief technology officer.
Earlier this year Matter completed a $10 million Series A round involving funds backed by Leonardo DiCaprio and Ashton Kutcher.
Industry experts Martin Allman and Jess Middlemiss join Matter as chief commercial officer and chief technology officer respectively.
Matter is working to stop microplastic pollution originating from sources including textiles and laundry, and is targeting rapid growth across a number of applications around the world.
Matter has developed solutions for capturing, harvesting and recycling microplastics.
These include Gulp – a sustainable, long-lasting washing machine filter that catches up to 90 percent of all microfibers from every laundry cycle.
Matter’s new chief commercial officer, Allman, will be tasked with scaling-up Matter’s technology to international markets.
The former British Army Officer has joined Matter after almost two decades in the green energy sector.
Joining the team as chief technology officer, Middlemiss — formerly of Dyson — will focus on driving forward innovation in microfiber capture and recycling.
Adam Root, CEO and founder of Matter, said: “Our new hires are about culture as much as they are about technical ability.
“We look to appoint the very best industry talent who are committed to our mission of living in a world without micropollutants in the environment. Martin and Jess embody this spirit perfectly.
“Our new C-Suite team is an integral part of Matter’s evolving story and will support in driving industry transformation.”
Allman said: “Matter has established itself as one of the most exciting, fast-growing companies in the clean tech space.
“We have ambitious plans to accelerate delivery of our solutions across the laundry and textile spaces and beyond. There is no more exciting industry to be in right now.”
Jess Middlemiss, noted: “I feel privileged to be working alongside the Matter team to build on the wonderful foundation of technology that the entire team has worked so hard to establish to-date.
“Matter has developed technologies that work for both industry and the environment. And I’m confident that the speed of innovation shows no sign of letting up in 2024 and beyond. Cutting edge technology is a central element of any global solution to the plastics crisis and Matter will continue to strive to be at the forefront of this change.”
ESPOO, Finland— November 30, 2023 — Kuura textile fiber, which is made from Metsä Group’s softwood pulp, received a “Green Shirt” rating based on the evaluation arranged by not-for-profit environmental organization Canopy. Their annual Hot Button Ranking is a well-established tool used in the global textile and fashion industries to assess the sustainability of wood-based textile fibers.
Metsä Group’s Kuura textile fiber has achieved high scores based on the Hot Button Ranking evaluation arranged by the Canadian not-for-profit environmental organization Canopy (see “MI Demo”, which is the subsidiary that owns and operates the Kuura demo plant in Äänekoski, Finland). The Kuura textile fiber, made out of softwood pulp from the Äänekoski bioproduct mill, was awarded for the third consecutive year with a Green Shirt rating, the requirements of which are a risk-free, transparent supply chain and traceable raw materials. Leading brand owners, in terms of environmental sustainability, exclusively source fiber from Green Shirt producers.
Metsä – Kuura
The textile fiber market is expected to grow from approximately $42 billion in 2022 up to $66 billion by 2030. Metsä Group’s Kuura concept is based on a vision to offer the global textile and nonwoven industries a new textile fiber with a significantly reduced environmental footprint. The ongoing R&D-focused phase for developing the Kuura concept is a joint effort of ITOCHU Textile Company, a part of Japanese trading giant ITOCHU Corporation, and Metsä Group’s innovation company Metsä Spring. With the collaboration, Kuura has already been utilized in creating fashionable and sustainable outfits like jackets and shirts, as well as in cutting-edge artwork that promotes the future of sustainable fibers.
“The Hot Button Ranking criteria have been made stricter every year. The fact that our operations were evaluated as worthy of the Green Shirt level for a third consecutive time shows that we have also moved forward in sustainability matters. Kuura is still in the research and development phase, which involves testing and developing the production process at the demo plant and assessing the market interest towards the new fibre. However, we are already attracting interest from some of the world’s largest and leading sustainable fashion houses, which reinforces the notion that we are on the right track with Kuura,” said CEO of Metsä Spring Niklas von Weymarn.
The Kuura textile fiber has also been evaluated by neutral expert organisations using the ISO standardized Life Cycle Assessment (LCA). The LCA is a method to measure and assess the environmental (and societal) impacts of any product. In the conducted assessments, it was determined that the large-scale production of Kuura would emit clearly lower greenhouse gas levels compared to currently commercially available bio-based textile fibers and polyester fibers. Hence, in the so-called Global Warming Potential category, Kuura ranked as best in class, mainly thanks to its production being integrated into the unit producing pulp. This, in turn, makes the total energy requirement to make Kuura fibers very favorable. Moreover, all energy utilized in producing the Kuura fiber would be renewable.
Additionally, the Kuura textile fiber is also perfectly suited to the EU’s plans to bring forward regulation related to the circular economy of textiles, as the fiber is essentially unmodified cellulose fibers produced by nature. This means that Kuura is 100-percent recyclable and naturally biodegradable. Compared to cotton fibers, the production of wood-based textile fibers, especially when made using wood from Nordic forests, does not compete with food production, and does not require irrigation water, fertilizers or pesticides.
“What also makes Kuura special is the backward traceability, which, in turn, takes us back to the over 90,000 Finnish forest owners that are owner-members of the parent company behind Metsä Group. All the wood used for Kuura (in practice pine and spruce) would be procured within a 100-km radius from the entity comprising the bioproduct mill and the Kuura mill,” von Weymarn said.
While proceeding with the Kuura test production in the 40 million euro demo plant located in Äänekoski, Metsä Spring is simultaneously developing the technical concept of a possible first commercial textile fibre mill. In Metsä Group’s concept, the Kuura mill would be integrated into a modern bioproduct mill in order to maximize the industrial efficiency of textile fiber production.
FRANKFURT, Germany — November 30, 2023 — This year’s edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME proved to be a success for the exhibiting VDMA member companies. Measured by booked square meters, Germany had the largest contingent, among the foreign exhibitors. More than 40 VDMA member companies were exhibiting their innovative products in Shanghai.
Dr. Janpeter Horn, chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association noted: “Although facing a difficult market situation, this year’s edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME has exceeded the expectations, both in terms of the number of visitors and the quality of the talks. The significant number of foreign visitors to the fair was particularly pleasing.”
Solutions were demonstrated for more sustainable textile productions by most of the exhibitors, and here the VDMA members presented their technologies for saving water, energy and raw materials under the heading “Smart technologies for green textile production.”
Dr. Uwe Rondé, CEO, Saurer Intelligent Technology AG, explained: “Saurer is satisfied with both the number of visitors and the quality of the discussions. Our booth was full from morning to evening with customers focused on latest technologies within the three mega trends: recycling, automation and digitalization. Although machine utilization in the spinning mills is still well below average, people are already gathering information and thinking about what to invest in once the market recovers.”
Benjamin Reiners, owner of Reiners + Fürst stated: “This year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME has exceeded our expectations by far. Especially the first day — a Sunday — has brought many high-quality customers and exclusively decision makers to our booth. We estimate about 20% international customers mainly from Bangladesh, Egypt, India, Iran, Pakistan, Uzbekistan and Vietnam. All customers agreed that the market situation at the moment is difficult, capacity usage is between 50 to 75 percent in the ring spinning sector and improvement is expected not before the 2nd half of 2024. Nevertheless the general spirit is very positive.“
“This ITMA ASIA was a great success for Trützschler. We welcomed a large number of Chinese visitors to our booth, as well as a significant number of interested international visitors”, said Dr. Bettina Temath, head of Global Marketing Trützschler Group SE.
Georg Stausberg, CEO of the polymer processing solutions division and chief sustainability officer of the Oerlikon Group stated: “We can look back on a successful show where we were able to meet many of our customers not only from China, but also from Pakistan, India and Indonesia, for example.”
“A very well-attended trade fair, with interesting discussions, great innovative topics, in line with the modern and rapidly developing China,” noted Wolfgang Schöffl, head of product line weaving machines and member of the extended management, Lindauer Dornier.
The VDMA Textile Machinery Association and VDMA China were present at the fair, to support the members e.g. with regard to IPR. With the help of a VDMA expert and a contracted law firm, the member company Sahm submitted a complaint application for patent infringement disputes during the exhibition to the onsite IPR office. Both parties, Sahm, and the Chinese company, that used patented design without permission reached an agreement: The Chinese company had to stop displaying functions and designs involving patent infringement on site which meant the removal of some structural parts and the covering of key components protected by patent protection.
Dr. Harald Weber, managing director of VDMA Textile Machinery concluded: “Asia, and China in particular, represent the primary foreign markets for the VDMA member companies in the sector. The Chinese market is the main destination for their exports. Other major export destinations in Asia include India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan. ITMA ASIA + CITME provides a unique platform to showcase technologies for customers directly in Asia. The VDMA member companies are looking forward to the coming edition of the fair from 14 to 18 October, 2024 in Shanghai.”
The latest survey of VDMA members’ subsidiaries in China gives reason to hope that the economic situation in the Chinese textile industry could also improve significantly in the second half of the year. In addition, European textile machinery manufacturers are urged to be present on the most important market and at the trade fair and to offer Asian customers most advanced technology for their demanding challenges.
Impressions of the trade fair were captured in 3 videos which are available at www.vdma.org/itma.
The VDMA represents more than 3,600 German and European mechanical and plant engineering companies. The industry stands for innovation, export orientation and SMEs. The companies employ around 3 million people in the EU-27, more than 1.2 million of them in Germany alone. This makes mechanical and plant engineering the largest employer among the capital goods industries, both in the EU-27 and in Germany. In the European Union, it represents a turnover volume of an estimated 860 billion euros. Around 80 percent of the machinery sold in the EU comes from a manufacturing plant in the domestic market.
