At the outset it should be pointed out that there was nothing eye catching about the short
staple spinning machinery exhibited in Paris, barring a few developments. How the absence of any
revolutionary development and the level of technology exhibited at the ITMA 99 show will mark a
point of departure for a generation of compact spinning systems only time will tell.There was also
an absence of some machinery manufacturers such as Crosrol. Others such as Marzoli and Vouk only
disclosed roundups. But the shining lights were the exhibition of high technology used in the
operation of equipment. New Developments For Ultra-Fine YarnsSKF Spinning Parts demonstrated a
system for spinning a Ne 335 cotton yarn (1.77 tex) from cotton with a micronaire of three. The
yarn had only 14 fibers in a cross section, while a commercial yarn usually requires a minimum of
50 fibers in a cross section. Obviously, such a fine yarn is not viable in a commercial sense.
Nevertheless, it highlights the technical effort that the machinery industry is expending to
advance the technology of short staple fiber spinning.In the area of ring spinning, the concept of
compact spinning process (new products based on the old technology of ring spinning) where a new
drafting unit design and pneumatic suction allows the production of a compact yarn without
hairiness, was very much present. Rieter, Suessen, Zinser and M.A.L. all exhibited this
technology.The Rieter ComforSpin® demonstrated the consolidation of the drafted fiber ribbon
through a rotating perforated roll. Rieter pointed out that there are already 100 machines with
1,000 spindle each operating in the industry.The process works efficiently for combed yarns, and
the yarns produced are less hairy, highly compact, have better evenness and a lower number of
imperfections.The Zinser and M.A.L. systems are based on the action of perforated belts at the exit
zone of the drafting unit while the Suessen system works on the principle of a filtering ribbon on
a vacuum device. The Suessen system can be fitted on conventional ring spinning and is equally
suited for carded yarns also. Rotor Spinning Reengineered With RoboticsIn the area of rotor
spinning the development trend was the renovation of the system by reengineering the rotor spinning
material and automation through robotics. However, the machines based on the 35-year-old technology
of the Czech BD 200 were still in evidence.The Corobox SE II shown by Schlafhorst incorporated a
completely new design, which ensures low energy consumption. This is accomplished by the
introduction of innovative magnet bearings with optimally streamlined shapes.The Autocoro 288 which
incorporates the SEII Spinning box requires less maintenance and has reduced short lot-change times
in comparison to earlier models.The Corolab ABS absorption sensor allows the detection of foreign
fibers directly during the spinning process.Rieter demonstrated a fully automatic R20
rotor-spinning machine capable of making five-kilogram packages, spinning start-up after the
doffing process without additional piecing and offering high productivity automated technology. The
semi-automated BT903 machine equipped with an AMISPIM piecing system is claimed to produce a
high-quality, rotor-spun yarn. This development offers a new machine type that currently does not
face any direct competition in the rotor spinning market.The FRS rotor spinning by Savio
demonstrated an economical solution to the spinning of quality rotor yarns. The auto-vacuum rotor
is claimed to produce soft and highly even yarns.Suessen, a specialist in the development of rotor
boxes with three million units in the field, demonstrated a new box SC-I.The SC-I box incorporates
a bypass in the vacuum system and optimum performance can be achieved for processing of several
types of fibers including man-made fibers. The box is equipped with a reliable trash removal and
offers a completely new design for improved productivity.The development of the box (SC-I) is
particularly suited for upgrading of existing units. Non-Conventional SpinningIn the
non-conventional spinning field, there was not much that caught the attention of visitors.Fehrer
once again exhibited its unique friction-spinning unit. Suessen and Murata reminded everyone that
air-jet spinning is the fastest growing short staple spinning technology.The air-jet spinning
technologies exhibited by Suessen and Murata generated a great interest and promise tremendous
potential for prospects in the development of newer textile yarns.

In addition to its Vortex Spinning System, Murata also showed numerous refinements for its
Mach Coner winders. The conventional spinning processes have benefited from these recent
improvements. The direct sliver-to-yarn spinning in the ring system has adopted the sliver cans
developed for air-jet spinning systems.The (MVS) Murata Vortex Spinning System, first shown in
Osaka two years ago, is based on the insertion of twist in a part of the fiber bundle by an air
vortex. This produces a yarn structure and consequently, properties that are closer to that of a
ring or a rotor yarn than that of an air-jet yarn.The spinning machinery builders did not exhibit
many roving frames, although, it is much too early to discount the use of roving in yarn
spinning. Sliver Preparation Gets FasterA processing speed of 1,000 meters per minute on
drawframes made history at ITMA. It has been possible due to mechanical controls. Rieter,
Trutzschler and Vouk have achieved these speeds due to unique machine designs.Trutzschler exhibited
a four-over-three roller drafting system with a pressure bar, while Vouk displayed a
three-over-four roll drafting system. Rieter and Trutzschler also showed the CUBICAN rectangular
section cans system. Combing Speeds Increase DramaticallyCombing speeds have gone up by nearly
30 percent in the past ten years. Rieter demonstrated a new concept, which allowed the speed to
increase to 400 nips per minute, instead of the earlier version of 350 nips.M.A.L, the German
machinery manufacturer also claimed similar combing speeds while Marzoli and Toyota exhibited
combers with 350 and 360 nips per minute speeds, respectively. These increased speeds have been
possible due to improved design achieved through new CAD techniques.Rieter and Marzoli also
exhibited completely automated systems for the supply of ribbon laps. New Cards Give Optimized
PerformanceThe machine manufacturers have demonstrated improvements in the carding process, which
are primarily due to optimization of the cylinder/flat coupling.Rieter has had a self-grinding card
on the market for the past two years. In Paris, the company introduced an integrated flat grinding
system called IGS-Top. This system is presumed to reduce nep count in the card sliver as compared
to similar cards and also increase the life-expectancy of the card wire.Trutzschler exhibited a
grinding process (PFG) which acts on the ends rather than on the sides of the wire. This process
includes a control system that is dependent on nep rate (determined by NEPCONtrOL NCT and card
sliver weight).Trutzschler also displayed an electronic control system for gap between cylinder and
flats during rotation in addition to a card adjustment system, which helps control bow in a flat
with an actuator. These developments have allowed the machinery manufacturers to achieve production
rates as high as 100 kilograms per hour. The new Marzoli C501 Card also meets this
performance.Trutzschler exhibited an auto-regulated drafting system with three pairs of rolls
installed at the end of the card to produce a pre-drafted sliver. The system is capable of a
drafting rate of 300 percent with an exit speed of 500 meters per minute.This system is unlike the
prevalent short-term regulating systems installed at the delivery end of a card. This is definitely
a departure point from the traditional carding and drawing short staple systems, and its
introduction will influence the open-end rotor spinning process.It will be important to keep in
mind the new sliver preparation process in short staple spinning systems. Opening And Cleaning
Optimized By ComputerThere was a conspicuous absence of carousel bale openers and not all the
opening and cleaning machinery manufacturers exhibited their wares. Trutzschler exhibited a
detailed version of the cotton opening and cleaning (bale to sliver) and the carding system.The BDT
020 machine remains the star among the automatic bale openers. The gradual tuft extraction and the
progressive forward movement of the cotton bales allow for a continuous supply of material in the
process. A specific supply cart for the bale opener is also proposed.Speeds of 800 kilograms per
hour were claimed for the CLEANOMAT (CXL) and the TUFTOMAT cleaning machines.Rieter announced that
the UNI Clean BII cleaner integrated with the Vario Set System should reach production speeds of
1,200 kilograms per hour.Rieter and Trutzschler also displayed a computer control system that helps
to manage the optimization of the cleaning process and the extraction of trash.Editors Note: Marc
Renner is a professor at ENSITM, Mulhouse, France, and Bhuvenesh C. Goswami is a professor at
Clemson University, School of Textile, Fiber and Polymer Science.

October 1999

Man-Made FibersBy John E. Luke Upon Further Review…
A closer look at man-made fibers yields changes within the market. Recent data from
the Fiber Economics Bureau has highlighted trade patterns in fibers, yarns and threads among NAFTA
trading partner countries. On the surface, the data appears to demonstrate how well U.S. fiber
producers are performing in the regional atmosphere created by NAFTA. Deeper down, however, the
statistics may also suggest impending changes in the U.S. textile complex.Is U.S. fabric
manufacturing moving to Mexico How different is that from the industrys move from its New England
base to the South after World War II Are U.S. and world fiber producers following this trend and
what impact will this geographic change have upon the U.S. fiber industry and the U.S.
textile/apparel complex. Several U.S. mills recently announced closings or restructuring. We
continue to hear reports of offshore investments in Mexican fabric production suggesting that
non-NAFTA nations may have discovered a Mexican investment strategy which gains them NAFTA status
while nominally owned by non-NAFTA organizations.Since the Mexican fiber industry is not yet large
enough to support reported Mexican fabric production, logic fails, however, when applied to
non-NAFTA investments. The world fiber industry may benefit through increased sales and the
consumer may benefit through lower prices from the availability of low-cost fibers but the U.S.
textile apparel complex may lose with profit repatratition to non-NAFTA nations.On the surface, at
least, a pattern with implications for a western hemisphere trading bloc seems to be emerging.
NAFTA appears to be successful in its original goal of slowing Far East imports, but its success
hangs another bloc out to dry. Granting NAFTA status to the Caribbean Basin nations would solidify
the mid-western hemisphere trade laws and create a unified fiber, fabric and garment zone in which
U.S. produced material would not be at a competitive disadvantage.It also would send a message that
the U.S. is serious about international business and we look to expand NAFTA theory south. The
first step is competitiveness in the NAFTA arena; second, the western hemisphere and third, the
world. Trade StatisticsIn 1996, U.S. fiber producers exported 1.23 billion pounds of
fiber/yarn and threads. Exports fell by 11+ percent to 1.09 billion pounds in 1998.Similarly, U.S.
mills imported 1.20 billion pounds of the same materials in 1996 but, as has been well documented
in the trade press, by 1998, imports had exploded by almost 30-percent to 1.57 billion pounds.Table
1 details recent changes in the trade balance of fiber/yarn and threads. The Asian flu absolutely
overwhelmed U.S. exports, particularly in polyester filament and staple fibers. Filament swung 126
million pounds from a positive net trade balance of 112 million pounds in 1996 to a negative
balance of 14 million pounds. Foreign sources of staple continued their onslaught and almost
doubled the 1996 negative trade balance of 227 million pounds to 441 million pounds.Hidden in these
frightening statistics, however, are several trading trends which deserve mention since they may
presage fundamental changes in western hemisphere fiber, fabric and apparel manufacturing.

 ExportsWe previously have reported in this space on the export positive trade balance
history of the American fiber industry. Obviously, this pattern had been shared but it took as
dramatic an act as the Asian meltdown to finally drive U.S. fiber trade into the deficit column.
Importantly, however, of the 1.23 billion pounds of 1996 exports, 302.4 million went to Canada and
139.7 went to Mexico.Our NAFTA partners imported 442.1 million pounds of fibers/yarns and threads
from us, almost 36 percent of our fiber/yarn and thread exports with Canada at 24.5 percent and
Mexico at 11.3 percent. By contrast, in 1998, as western textile economics were shoveling out from
under the blizzard of cheap southeast Asia fibers, U.S. fiber producers still managed to export
almost 1.1 billion pounds, with the NAFTA partners taking almost 50 percent of the total; Canada
taking 340 million pounds representing 31+ percent of out exports and Mexico taking 201 million
pounds representing 73 percent of total Canadian fiber imports, down slightly from the 76 percent
level of 1996. Similarly, Mexicos 201-million-pound fiber intake from the U.S. in 1998 represented
70-percent Mexican fiber imports, down substantially from 81 percent in 1996.Half of the
137-million-pound export losses between 1996 and 1998 can be accounted for by missing opportunities
in Mexico, probably to cheap Asian fibers aimed at reshipment from Mexico to non-NAFTA countries.
The other half was lost among a myriad of U.S. trading partners also to cheap Asian fibers
available worldwide at any price. An incremental analysis reveals that U.S. producers were forced
to find ways to affect this dramatic increase in market share with NAFTA partners. For example,
(using 1998 shares as a starting base) if 31+ percent of 1996 shipments went to Mexico, 1996
exports to NAFTA countries would have been slightly more than 608 million pounds. Since 1998
shipments only were 541 million pounds, the industry appeared to lose 67 million pounds in NAFTA
shipments only were 541 million pounds, the industry appeared to lose 67 million pounds in NAFTA
shipments in the two years.It is problematic whether the industry can continue to repeat this feat
although improving southeast Asian economies should reduce the pressure on international
accumulation of hard currencies which thereby should reduce exports of exceedingly cheap raw
materials. Imports1998 represented a high water mark for fiber imports, driven by dramatic
increases in the imports of polyester staple and filament from Korea, Malaysia, Indonesia and
Taiwan. Most dramatically, Korea increased fiber shipments from 237 million pounds in 1996 to 395
million pounds in 1998 a 66-percent increase in two years raising their share on U.S. imports from
slightly less than 20 percent to slightly more than 25 percent.Taiwans share of U.S. imports grew
44 percent from 7.4 percent to 10.7 percent. Similar but slightly smaller moves were made by
Malaysia and Indonesia, neither of whom could match the sheer volume of polyester fibers available
from Taiwan and Korea.NAFTA continued to provide opportunities for competition, however. As with
U.S. exports, so also with shipments to the U.S. Of 1996s total U.S. fiber/yarn and thread imports,
41 percent, 501 million pounds came from NAFTA countries, split 60/40 between Canada and Mexico.By
1998, total exports to the U.S. had increased slightly to 533 million pounds, still were split
60/40 in Canadas favor and represented only 34 percent of total U.S. fiber/yarn and thread
imports.It will be interesting to observe DuPont-Akra in this import deluge. The combined
American/Mexican company already can supply 750 million pounds of polyester staple, is building 350
million pounds of production in Mexico and has also announced the intention to double the Mexican
facility by an undetermined time in the 21st century.If NAFTA, and potentially CBI, can continue to
stave off Asian imports, we will see significant quantities of DuPont-Akra staple in U.S. mills
and, at least superficially, U.S. fiber producers will appear to suffer at the hands of
impostors.To establish a perspective, Table 2 details the U.S. balance of trade in manufactured
fibers/yarns and thread with NAFTA partners.In 1998, U.S. producers exported a total of 1.1 billion
pounds of fibers, yarns and threads. Fabric manufacturers imported almost 1.6 billion pounds of the
same products, resulting in the 475 million pound trade deficit.As recently as 1996, the U.S. fiber
industry maintained a net zero balance of trade by exporting as much as was imported in fiber form.
As we have noted in their space, the U.S. fiber industry almost always has been a net exporter but
it finally has been overwhelmed by the proliferation of fiber manufacturing facilities,
particularly in developing economies.NAFTA has been good for U.S. producers. As seen in Table 2,
the U.S. shipped 26 million pounds more into Canada than was imported and shipped 13 million less
into Mexico than was imported. U.S. producers now maintain a net zero balance of trade with its
NAFTA partners by exporting as much as was imported in fiber form. U.S. producers must fight to
maintain this trade picture and should endorse any policies which can enhanced the competitiveness
of a western trade bloc.

Editors Note: John E. Luke is owner of Five Twenty Six Associates Inc., Bryn Mawr, Pa., a
consulting firm specializing in strategic marketing and operations facing textile fiber and fabric
manufacturers. He is also a professor of textile marketing and management at the Philadelphia
College of TextilesandScience.

October 1999