DuPont Forms Alliance With Noble Fiber

DuPont Performance Fabrics, Wilmington, Del., and Noble Fiber Technologies, Scranton, Pa., recently
formed a marketing alliance between the two companies that will provide co-branded sales of
anti-microbial moisture management systems in hosiery applications.As a result of the agreement,
DuPont will be the exclusive supplier of polyester for use with Nobles X-Static® in key marketing
segments, including products sold under the CoolMax, CoolMax Alta and ThermaStat® brands.X-Static
was first introduced in 1998. It has a layer of pure metallic silver effectively dyed onto the
surface as a nylon fiber. X-Static can be mixed with any carrier yarns and sustains anti-microbial
and anti-static properties at minimal levels.According to Noble, X-Static retains traditional
textile characteristics and can be used in knits, wovens, nonwovens and blended spun yarns.

October 1999

For The Record

In the article
Making the Right Fiber Choice, ATI August 1999, the actual melting point of Corterra PTT
is 228°C.Also, the temperature range for extrusion of the polymer into fibers is between 245°C and
260°C.

October 1999

Four Leaf Textiles Announces Capacity Expansion

Four Leaf Textiles, Clover, S.C., has recently announced a $4 million production expansion that is
expected to increase capacity by 40 percent. The company is celebrating its first anniversary this
year.
(See Four Leaf Gives Heather Yarns The Green Light, ATI September, 1998)Four Leaf
specializes in the production of premium, ring-spun heather yarns for the apparel and home
furnishings market. It also produces yarns using a wide variety of synthetic fibers including
polyester, rayon and other man-made fibers.According to the company, the expansion project includes
additional equipment featuring Truetzschler opening, carding and drawing, Marzoli spinning and
Murata winding machines.The demand for ring-spun specialty yarn is extremely strong, said David
Roberts, Four Leaf CEO. Weve built our reputation on consistent product quality, availability and
delivery. The expansion of our proprietary blending equipment and manufacturing systems allow us to
build on that reputation for service. The expansion will also allow us to meet the anticipated
needs of the growing global market.”Roberts said that the first phase of the expansion is scheduled
for completion during the fourth quarter of 1999, and the second phase will be fully operational by
March 2000.

October 1999

HealthShield Technologies39 Anti-Microbial Agent Included In Clothing

HealthShield Technologies, Boston, has announced an exclusive licensing agreement with FOSS
Manufacturing Co. The deal will allow Foss to incorporate HealthShield, an advanced silver-based,
anti-microbial agent, into the manufacture of its bi-component (two polymers/additives) and binder
(adhesive) fibers and fabrics.The agreement allows HealthShield and FOSS to address a growing
concern over bacterial contamination.The companys patented delivery system, which provides for
continual slow release of silver, a natural antibacterial compound, ensures the longevity and
integrity of the product, said Roger Freedman, chairman and CEO, HealthShield.The HealthShield
compound can be blended into the manufacturing process of other fabrics, including cotton, wool,
polyester, nylon and acrylic. This will result in a fabric that in-turn will possess antimicrobial
characteristics.

October 1999

People

Burlington Chemical Co. Inc., Burlington, N.C., has announced that Phil Bowers was appointed vice
president of textile sales. He has been with the company since 1996.Prior to joining the company,
Bowers served as sales and technical manager, North America, for Zeneca Colors.The International
Colour Association (AIC), Lawrenceville, N.J., recently honored Fred W. Billmeyer Jr. with the
Deane B. Judd Award for lifetime contributions to the field of color. The award was presented at
the AIC Interim Meeting, held recently in Warsaw, Poland.Billmeyer was honored for his dedication
to the area of color education, where he directed and mentored 30 post-baccalaureate and many more
baccalaureate candidates in the field of color science.The American Association of Textile Chemists
and Colorists (AATCC), Research Triangle Park, N.C., has announced that three top textile
scientists will be honored during its 1999 International ConferenceandExhibition.Warren S. Perkins,
a senior research textile chemist in the department of textiles, merchandising and interiors at the
University of Georgia, will be presented with the Olney Medal for achievement in textile
chemistry.Perkins, a former technical editor with
ATI, received the Harold C. Chapin Award in 1998.
(See Dyeing, PrintingandFinishing News, ATI October 1998).John R. Aspland, a professor of
textile chemistry in the department of textiles, fibers and polymer science at Clemson University,
will be presented the Harold C. Chapin Award in recognition for his outstanding service to AATCC.
He worked for several companies prior to joining Clemson in 1983.Paul W. Mickler, vice president of
the Global H2O Division of Carotek, will be presented the Henry E. Millson Award for Invention for
his work in the commercialization of vacuum-slot technology for textile finishing.Mickler has been
recognized with several awards for his achievements in the industry.

October 1999

Genenor International Launches Natural Cellulase

Genencor International, Palo Alto, Calif., has introduced a new natural cellulase that allows for
high quality denim finishes with low fabric strength loss and more process flexibility.INDIAGE®
Neutra is a neutral cellulase that works over a broad range of pH levels and temperatures while
providing a high-contract, low backstaining look. It operates optimally between pH 6.0 and 8.0 and
in the temperature range of 40°C and 60°C.This product is a novel engineered component cellulase
designed specifically to be formulated into products for use in premium, high-contract denim
fishing, said Karen Chu, director of textile products, Genencor International.The company also
announced the creation of a new branding program for patterning textile chemical formulators,
designed to make it easier for textile mills, laundries and dye houses to be assured of purchasing
quality formulations.
Circle 311.

October 1999

Short Staple Spinning

At the outset it should be pointed out that there was nothing eye catching about the short
staple spinning machinery exhibited in Paris, barring a few developments. How the absence of any
revolutionary development and the level of technology exhibited at the ITMA 99 show will mark a
point of departure for a generation of compact spinning systems only time will tell.There was also
an absence of some machinery manufacturers such as Crosrol. Others such as Marzoli and Vouk only
disclosed roundups. But the shining lights were the exhibition of high technology used in the
operation of equipment. New Developments For Ultra-Fine YarnsSKF Spinning Parts demonstrated a
system for spinning a Ne 335 cotton yarn (1.77 tex) from cotton with a micronaire of three. The
yarn had only 14 fibers in a cross section, while a commercial yarn usually requires a minimum of
50 fibers in a cross section. Obviously, such a fine yarn is not viable in a commercial sense.
Nevertheless, it highlights the technical effort that the machinery industry is expending to
advance the technology of short staple fiber spinning.In the area of ring spinning, the concept of
compact spinning process (new products based on the old technology of ring spinning) where a new
drafting unit design and pneumatic suction allows the production of a compact yarn without
hairiness, was very much present. Rieter, Suessen, Zinser and M.A.L. all exhibited this
technology.The Rieter ComforSpin® demonstrated the consolidation of the drafted fiber ribbon
through a rotating perforated roll. Rieter pointed out that there are already 100 machines with
1,000 spindle each operating in the industry.The process works efficiently for combed yarns, and
the yarns produced are less hairy, highly compact, have better evenness and a lower number of
imperfections.The Zinser and M.A.L. systems are based on the action of perforated belts at the exit
zone of the drafting unit while the Suessen system works on the principle of a filtering ribbon on
a vacuum device. The Suessen system can be fitted on conventional ring spinning and is equally
suited for carded yarns also. Rotor Spinning Reengineered With RoboticsIn the area of rotor
spinning the development trend was the renovation of the system by reengineering the rotor spinning
material and automation through robotics. However, the machines based on the 35-year-old technology
of the Czech BD 200 were still in evidence.The Corobox SE II shown by Schlafhorst incorporated a
completely new design, which ensures low energy consumption. This is accomplished by the
introduction of innovative magnet bearings with optimally streamlined shapes.The Autocoro 288 which
incorporates the SEII Spinning box requires less maintenance and has reduced short lot-change times
in comparison to earlier models.The Corolab ABS absorption sensor allows the detection of foreign
fibers directly during the spinning process.Rieter demonstrated a fully automatic R20
rotor-spinning machine capable of making five-kilogram packages, spinning start-up after the
doffing process without additional piecing and offering high productivity automated technology. The
semi-automated BT903 machine equipped with an AMISPIM piecing system is claimed to produce a
high-quality, rotor-spun yarn. This development offers a new machine type that currently does not
face any direct competition in the rotor spinning market.The FRS rotor spinning by Savio
demonstrated an economical solution to the spinning of quality rotor yarns. The auto-vacuum rotor
is claimed to produce soft and highly even yarns.Suessen, a specialist in the development of rotor
boxes with three million units in the field, demonstrated a new box SC-I.The SC-I box incorporates
a bypass in the vacuum system and optimum performance can be achieved for processing of several
types of fibers including man-made fibers. The box is equipped with a reliable trash removal and
offers a completely new design for improved productivity.The development of the box (SC-I) is
particularly suited for upgrading of existing units. Non-Conventional SpinningIn the
non-conventional spinning field, there was not much that caught the attention of visitors.Fehrer
once again exhibited its unique friction-spinning unit. Suessen and Murata reminded everyone that
air-jet spinning is the fastest growing short staple spinning technology.The air-jet spinning
technologies exhibited by Suessen and Murata generated a great interest and promise tremendous
potential for prospects in the development of newer textile yarns.

In addition to its Vortex Spinning System, Murata also showed numerous refinements for its
Mach Coner winders. The conventional spinning processes have benefited from these recent
improvements. The direct sliver-to-yarn spinning in the ring system has adopted the sliver cans
developed for air-jet spinning systems.The (MVS) Murata Vortex Spinning System, first shown in
Osaka two years ago, is based on the insertion of twist in a part of the fiber bundle by an air
vortex. This produces a yarn structure and consequently, properties that are closer to that of a
ring or a rotor yarn than that of an air-jet yarn.The spinning machinery builders did not exhibit
many roving frames, although, it is much too early to discount the use of roving in yarn
spinning. Sliver Preparation Gets FasterA processing speed of 1,000 meters per minute on
drawframes made history at ITMA. It has been possible due to mechanical controls. Rieter,
Trutzschler and Vouk have achieved these speeds due to unique machine designs.Trutzschler exhibited
a four-over-three roller drafting system with a pressure bar, while Vouk displayed a
three-over-four roll drafting system. Rieter and Trutzschler also showed the CUBICAN rectangular
section cans system. Combing Speeds Increase DramaticallyCombing speeds have gone up by nearly
30 percent in the past ten years. Rieter demonstrated a new concept, which allowed the speed to
increase to 400 nips per minute, instead of the earlier version of 350 nips.M.A.L, the German
machinery manufacturer also claimed similar combing speeds while Marzoli and Toyota exhibited
combers with 350 and 360 nips per minute speeds, respectively. These increased speeds have been
possible due to improved design achieved through new CAD techniques.Rieter and Marzoli also
exhibited completely automated systems for the supply of ribbon laps. New Cards Give Optimized
PerformanceThe machine manufacturers have demonstrated improvements in the carding process, which
are primarily due to optimization of the cylinder/flat coupling.Rieter has had a self-grinding card
on the market for the past two years. In Paris, the company introduced an integrated flat grinding
system called IGS-Top. This system is presumed to reduce nep count in the card sliver as compared
to similar cards and also increase the life-expectancy of the card wire.Trutzschler exhibited a
grinding process (PFG) which acts on the ends rather than on the sides of the wire. This process
includes a control system that is dependent on nep rate (determined by NEPCONtrOL NCT and card
sliver weight).Trutzschler also displayed an electronic control system for gap between cylinder and
flats during rotation in addition to a card adjustment system, which helps control bow in a flat
with an actuator. These developments have allowed the machinery manufacturers to achieve production
rates as high as 100 kilograms per hour. The new Marzoli C501 Card also meets this
performance.Trutzschler exhibited an auto-regulated drafting system with three pairs of rolls
installed at the end of the card to produce a pre-drafted sliver. The system is capable of a
drafting rate of 300 percent with an exit speed of 500 meters per minute.This system is unlike the
prevalent short-term regulating systems installed at the delivery end of a card. This is definitely
a departure point from the traditional carding and drawing short staple systems, and its
introduction will influence the open-end rotor spinning process.It will be important to keep in
mind the new sliver preparation process in short staple spinning systems. Opening And Cleaning
Optimized By ComputerThere was a conspicuous absence of carousel bale openers and not all the
opening and cleaning machinery manufacturers exhibited their wares. Trutzschler exhibited a
detailed version of the cotton opening and cleaning (bale to sliver) and the carding system.The BDT
020 machine remains the star among the automatic bale openers. The gradual tuft extraction and the
progressive forward movement of the cotton bales allow for a continuous supply of material in the
process. A specific supply cart for the bale opener is also proposed.Speeds of 800 kilograms per
hour were claimed for the CLEANOMAT (CXL) and the TUFTOMAT cleaning machines.Rieter announced that
the UNI Clean BII cleaner integrated with the Vario Set System should reach production speeds of
1,200 kilograms per hour.Rieter and Trutzschler also displayed a computer control system that helps
to manage the optimization of the cleaning process and the extraction of trash.Editors Note: Marc
Renner is a professor at ENSITM, Mulhouse, France, and Bhuvenesh C. Goswami is a professor at
Clemson University, School of Textile, Fiber and Polymer Science.

October 1999

C F Stinson Wins Coveted Recognition Award

C.F. Stinson Inc., Rochester Hills, Mich., recently announced that its Jacquard Plus seating fabric
has won the Best of Neocon Gold Award as the contract furniture industrys Best New Healthcare
Fabric. The award was presented during the Neocon World Trade Fair, held recently in Chicago.The
solution-dyed nylon fabric is setting new standards of cleanability, durability and performance in
the rapidly growing healthcare and hospitality industries, said Glenn Stinson, the companys vice
president.This product is the ultimate fabric for demanding environments such are hospitals,
restaurants, casinos, hotels and other high-use settings where fabrics are subjected to stains,
spills and cleaning with harsh cleaning agents like bleach or other solvent-based cleaners, he
added.Jacquard Plus was created by combining the performance advantage of the Millennium process
from MillikenandCo. with the solution-dyed nylon woven fabric of Culp Inc. According to Stinson,
the durability of the fabric is unmatched. In industry-standard abrasion tests, Jacquard Plus
exceeded the requirement for a Heavy Duty rating by 10 times (300,000 double rubs).The seating
fabric also features a unique moisture and fluid barrier that prevents stains and liquids from
penetrating the fabric.The 10th annual Best of Neocon new product competition honored products
introduced in the U.S market during the year.

October 1999

Jukki Union Introduces New Products For Apparel Industry

Jukki Union Special Inc., has recently introduced new products for the apparel industry.First in
the MOL-254 Automatic 2-needle belt loop attaching machine for high quality belt loop sewing on
jeans, casual wear and work wear. It operates at a sewing speed of up to 3,600 spm (stitches per
minute) with a 1.2-second sewing time per loop. Stitch patterns can be changed at the
operator-friendly control panel within one second, with memory capacity of nine patterns, and 99
patterns with optional ROM.The second product is the LBH-1700 electronic lockstitch buttonhole
machine for super high-quality buttonholes on light- to medium-weight fabrics. It offers six
different buttonhole patterns as standard and up to 89 patterns with additional ROM. The
direct-drive motor system provides exact feed with very fine resolution, with reductions in noise
and vibration levels.Finally, the company has introduced the DDL-9000 Series single-needle
lockstitch machines with automatic thread trimming, which are available in two models.The DDL-9000D
is a dry head machine designed without an oil pan, eliminating the need for lubrication and oil
stains on fabric.The DDL-9000S is a semi-lubricating model that feeds clean oil to the hook and
needle bar only, greatly reducing maintenance.
Circle 316.

October 1999

Retroglo Accepted Into Material Databank

Retroglo®, the style and safety yarn made with 3M Scotchlite Reflective Material, has been awarded
acceptance into the material archives and Material Databank by Material Connexion, the
international resource center and clearing house of materials research, production and use.Retroglo
is manufactured by Metlon Corp., Cranston, R.I. According to the company, Retroglo combines style,
versatility and high nighttime visibility as it is knitted, woven and braided into a variety of
fabrics.Material Connexions juried panel selected Retroglo based on its material excellence in the
special category of polymeric materials.

October 1999

Sponsors