Italian Textile Technology

By William Oxenham, Ph.D.

Machines Italia: Spinning

Marzoli S.p.A. has several US ring-spinning installations, but the company indicates it has shifted its focus to Iran, Syria, Turkey and China. Additionally, Marzoli now operates a joint venture to manufacture ring-spinning frames in China, resulting in huge reductions in manufacturing costs. Spindle prices of $230 in Italy versus $42 in China are given as broad cost comparisons for non-automated machines.

While Marzoli manufactures a full range of cotton-spinning machinery, the companys major news is its entry into the compact-spinning arena. Marzolis Olfil system can be retrofitted to its existing machines, and consists of an extra zone after the normal front rollers of the drafting system. Upon leaving the drafting system, the strand is supported on a perforated apron before passing through an extra front roller, which is belt-driven by the drafting roller. In this additional condensing zone, suction through the perforated belt creates tension in the fibers and results in a tighter yarn structure. Benefits include a 15- to 20-percent reduction in hairiness and a 10-percent increase in tenacity. Marzoli is promoting the Olfil system for processing cotton and, particularly, finer counts (24-80 Ne) for combed fibers. The company indicates there are problems with coarser yarns and short fibers, and higher trash levels have a big impact on productivity. The system, marketed as an approach to improving yarn quality rather than high productivity, is sensitive to temperature and humidity. Sticky cotton is particularly problematic.

Savio’s Twinsplicer is just one of the many splicing units that can be supplied with Savio winders.

Modern Spinning Plant

A visit to Giemme Filati S.p.A., coordinated by Savio Macchine Tessili S.p.A., offered a look at some of Savios latest developments, as well as a discussion with Giemme Filatis president, Giovanni Muratori. Giemme Filati is a modern spinning plant with 10,000 spindles for cotton yarns, plus three machines for core-spun elastomeric yarns. All machines are equipped with Savio ORION I link winding. The company also has facilities for twisting, singeing, mercerizing and dyeing (6,800 pounds per day for socks and high-quality underwear). Giemme Filati also owns a spinning mill in Paraguay. A major concern for the company is the competition from imported yarns. To offset the variations in pricing between in-house yarn and yarn imported from India, Giemme Filati not only spins 16,000 pounds per day, but also finishes 20,000 pounds of yarn sourced from India, Russia and Egypt (40s to 80s Ne).

Savio has had recent success in the United States with sales of winding machines and installations of rotor-spinning and Espero Volufil bulking units for acrylic yarns. The Italian textile industry has seen a major downturn, and 90 percent of Savio machinery is exported, with the largest market presently being China and Turkey.

Three developments were highlighted. Various types of splicing units can be incorporated into the winder. Of particular interest is the Twinsplicer, a mechanical system that can splice not only denim yarns, but also compact and core-spun elastomeric yarns. The splicing of elastomeric yarns was demonstrated in the spinning rooms at Filati.A system has been developed to identify the spindle that produces the yarn being wound on the link-winding machine. Because there is a package transfer system in the passage of the spinning tube to the winder, it is necessary to communicate the new location to the tracking system. It is believed the use of such systems should greatly improve the identification of spinning positions that are producing defective yarns and thus may need maintenance.

Savio is set to launch a rotor-spinning machine that uses a spin box from Spindelfabrik Suessen, Germany, instead of its traditional self-pumping rotor. This should enable significantly higher production speeds. Suessen has been very active in improving its components to enable the production of higher-quality yarns.

Long-Staple Processing

Sant’Andrea Novara S.p.A. is, along with Cognetex S.p.A. and Seydel, part of the Finlane Group. Sant’Andrea has been a significant player in the manufacture of machines for long-staple processing, and in particular for the processing of fine wools. Its major markets currently are China, Turkey, Italy, Mexico and Iran.

The group claims to be the largest manufacturer of long-staple processing machinery. While Sant’Andrea does not manufacture spinning frames, Cognetex offers a range of machines. Thus, the group can provide turnkey operations. The major developments presented by Sant’Andrea follow. The new P100 comb operates under a new combing law. Main features include continuous feed, simplified design and increased operating speed. The comb has been designed with minimum motion of the various components. Not only does this afford potentially higher speeds, but it also has resulted in significant improvements in setting times for the various units within the comb, coupled with easier and quicker component change.

The HC 22 ARE pin drafter (Chain Gill) twin-head drawing frame is equipped with double electronic autoleveling. As well as having the more usual open-loop system to measure and correct the feed, this machine also is equipped with the Tex-Detector closed-loop system, which measures and corrects the outgoing sliver. Additional features of note are the 30-millimeter (mm) front ratch of the drafting system and the reduced distance of 4 mm between successive rows on intersecting pins in the drafting zone. Both of these modifications should lead to improvements in sliver quality.

A second rubbing zone on Sant’Andrea Novara’s RF4 Vertical Rubbing Finisher reinforces “dead centers.”

Sant’Andrea claims 80 percent of the world market share for vertical rubbing frames. The RF4 Vertical Rubbing Finisher is its latest version. The use of a double rubbing field doubles the amount of rubbing at a particular running speed, and thus the rubbing section can potentially run at a lower oscillation rate to maintain an acceptable compaction of the roving. In addition, the second rubbing zone can reinforce the dead centers that occur at the reversal of the rubbing aprons when only one apron set is used.

Compact Spinning Centers

Cognetex currently has about 45 percent of the world market for long-staple ring frames, with Turkey accounting for about 50 percent of its sales. Its major focus recently has been the development of a compact spinning system for worsted spinning. The Com4® Wool system is the result of significant development based on Rieters Com4 system for cotton fibers. Major changes have been made to accommodate much longer fibers. This is
achieved by utilizing angled balloon rollers as the front rollers in the compacting zone. The usual benefits for compact yarn are gained with this system improved hairiness, regularity, strength, elongation and abrasion resistance. However, the claimed advantages are associated with the impact of these benefits in subsequent processing. One particular claim is that it may be possible to replace folded wrap yarns with a single Com4 Wool yarn. The system is incorporated into a machine using suppressed spinning balloons claimed to work well in conjunction with the compact drafting unit. An additional cover, termed the air conveyor, is used for certain fiber types. It is recommended for use when processing cashmere, but is said to be unnecessary for wool.

Spinning Plant Automation

U.T.I.T. Wagner Automazioni S.p.A. operates as a design and assembly company. It sources parts and components and then applies minor modifications to ensure a unified system. The company presently works either directly with the customer or through a machinery maker. The company offers many forms of material handling for different areas of the textile industry and is particularly well-known in staple spinning. Systems offered include:bale handling; transport systems for sliver cans, comber laps and rovings; complete material handling systems, from spinning/winding through palletization; filament-package handling; and textile roll handling and palletization.

U.T.I.T. has several installations operating in the United States, particularly can and roving transport, and yarn-package handling systems. The latter systems can accommodate output from up to 23 machines. The setup includes automatic package assessment for diameter, weight, conicity and yarn tail. It is possible to handle different yarns from the different spinning machines feeding the system. Research is underway to track the spinning position that is producing any defect detected by the package inspection system.

Gualchierani Textile Automation S.p.A. has two main areas of focus bale presses (including presses for making bump tops) and automation. The company proudly explains the project planning, research, construction and installation are all conducted in-house. Its major sales are to the Czech Republic, Turkey, China, India and South America.Gualchierani currently has interests in the following areas of material handling:robotic plants for partially oriented yarn, fully drawn yarn, bulk continuous filament, and other yarns from spinning through inspection to palletizing and storage, including package inspection and labeling; staple processing automation from spinning and winding through boxing and palletizing; handling of packages in the dyehouse; and warehouse automation and associated logistics.

June 2003

Joan Velvets AdoptsAF and Y’s Marquesa PlushJoan Velvets, Hickory, N.C., has adopted Marquesa Plush
olefin yarn from Chapel Hill, N.C.-based American FibersandYarns (AF and Y) for use in a new line
of velvet fabrics for transportation and commercial furniture applications. The new fabrics were
shown on furniture manufactured by a number of Joan Velvets customers at the 2003 International
Furnishings Market in High Point, N.C.The Marquesa Plush yarn matched Joan Velvets requested
specifications for unrivaled softness, aesthetics, color and design for this new yarn made for the
residential furnishings market segment, said Michael Apperson, CEO, AF and Y. Weve always known
about the excellent performance and durability properties of olefins. Now to find it with
acrylic-like aesthetics is such an added bonus, said Robb Tomlin, vice president, merchandising,
Joan Velvets. In addition, he said, Marquesa Plush is very easy to clean and resists staining.
June 2003

2003 Innovation AwardBy Janet Bealer Rodie,Assistant EditorClose To The
Customer
Springs delivers value through strong customer relationships, offering a broad range of
products and brands.While Springs Industries Inc., Fort Mill, S.C., has a long history of
product innovation, the companys marketing and brand strategies also have helped propel it to its
current position as a leader in the soft goods home furnishings market, which comprises bedding,
bath, floor and window products. Leveraging acquisition and licensing opportunities to build up its
traditional product offerings and to bring new products into its line-up, the company has
positioned itself at the center of this important textile sector. Springs offers products in every
category of this market, as well as complementary non-textile home fashion products. No other
company in this sector offers such a broad spectrum of goods. The soft goods home furnishings
market has seen steady growth over the past several years, with anticipation of continued growth
into the future. In 2002, US consumption within this market totaled more than $15.8 billion across
all categories. The markets 3.67-percent annual growth rate from 1997 to 2002 is expected to slow
slightly over the next five years to 3.3 percent, still a respectable rate, especially considering
the roller-coaster economy and other uncertainties experienced in recent years.

Springs offers bedding products and ensembles for all ages. Examples include Egyptian cotton
sheets (right) and the Lullaby Ark baby bedding ensemble (above).

In part, Springs success lies in building strong relationships with its retail customers to
help them compete with differentiated products.Retailers drive our business, said Crandall Close
Bowles, chairman and CEO. They get involved today in everything from yarn type to yarn count, to
construction and finishing; and in product development and product design. Color and print are just
the tip of the iceberg. In recent years, Springs customer base, which includes department,
specialty and home improvement stores, has become increasingly dominated by such mass merchandisers
as Wal-Mart, Target and Kmart. Springs develops and produces special collections for all of these
retailers.There is increased demand for product differentiation, Bowles said. Each retailer wants
to be the first and only one to have it.Product Bundling

Springs’ institutional products include Tranquility fleece blankets.Another way the company
delivers value to its customers and to the buying public is through product bundling, which
provides the consumer a convenient shopping alternative. One example of product bundling is the
bed-in-a-bag total bedding package that includes coordinated sheets and top-of-bed articles. In
addition, Springs markets collections of separate products under a single theme, such as Harry
Potter®, which includes childrens sheet sets, towel sets, shower curtains and other products.From
the markets perspective, the most important innovative steps have been in how we bundle entire
groups of products, so were no longer in the towel business, but in the bath shop business, where
were putting things together towels, rugs, shower curtains and accessories, said Tom OConnor,
executive vice president and president, marketing group. Or, with the bedding business, were not
just in sheets, but also in top-of-bed. Ten years ago, we would have been in product businesses,
but not today. To us, thats a way to solve problems for the customer, and its helped us capture
market share.BrandingThe Springs product lines include such well-known brand-names as Wamsutta® and
Springmaid® bed linens and top-of-bed ensembles, blankets, and bath towels and rugs; Regal® accent
rugs; Graber®, Bali® and Nanik® window shades, blinds and accessories; and Dundee® bed and bath
products for the hospitality and institutional markets. The company also markets its products under
licensed brands such as the previously mentioned Harry Potter; as well as Burlington House®,
Waverly, Liz/Villager, Serta, Disney, Coca-Cola, NASCAR and many others.The company recently signed
an agreement with the Egyptian Ministry of Economy and Foreign Trade and the Alexandria Cotton
Exports Association in Egypt to use the Egyptian cotton trademarked logo to promote Springs use of
100-percent Egyptian cotton in its products.

Graber wood blinds are among Springs’ window offerings.

Regal bath coordinates include towels, rugs and accessories.Offering It AllWhether shopping
for bedding, bath or window textiles; accent or area rugs; kitchen and table textiles and
accessories; blankets and throws; fabric-covered lampshades; or decorative pillows, chair pads and
other home fashions made by cut-and-sew companies or offered under licensed brands from a textile
perspective, it seems todays consumer can almost completely dress the home using Springs products.
Where textiles are concerned, one need look to other manufacturers and marketers primarily for
carpet and upholstery fabric. But because Springs also offers non-textile accessories within the
home fashion categories it serves, the consumer may choose the companys wood, aluminum or vinyl
blinds; drapery hardware; shower curtains, ceramic soap dishes and other bath accessories; and
numerous other items to complete the desired looks in various rooms.The consumer also may choose
Springs baby and nursery products, including clothing, layette items, bedding and bath textiles,
blankets and more. And, the home sewer may choose from a variety of Springs fabrics and craft kits
to create unique home fashions and apparel for the family.
June 2003

Russell Increases Sales, Earnings; Adds Spalding BusinessAtlanta-based Russell Corp. reported
first-quarter 2003 sales of $228 million 6 percent higher than first-quarter 2002 sales. Earnings
of 11 cents per diluted share increased 38 percent over year-earlier earnings.The strength of our
brands and the expansion of our athletic business in the retail and team sports channels certainly
contributed to our positive first-quarter results, said Jack Ward, chairman and CEO. In other
company news, Russell signed a $65 million purchase agreement to acquire the brand names,
inventory, contracts and related assets of the sporting goods business of Spalding Sports Worldwide
Inc., Chicopee, Mass.
June 2003

Dan River Announces Two Plant Closings And Lowers Earnings OutlookDan River Inc., Danville, Va.,
announced today it will close two manufacturing facilities in order to rationalize capacity in its
home fashions division. As a result, the company expects to record a pre-tax restructuring charge
in the second quarter of approximately $12 million, about $10 million of which is non-cash.The
company also announced that the continuing weak retail environment and excessive retail inventories
have negatively impacted sales and margins for the first two months of the second quarter. Based on
current projections and including the restructuring charge noted above, the company expects to
report a net loss of about $13 million, or $0.60 per share, for the second fiscal quarter which
ends June 28, 2003. After giving effect to the restructuring charge, the company remains in
covenant compliance under its credit facility, and it maintains ample liquidity.The company plans
to close a home fashions weaving facility located in Greenville, S.C., and a comforter sewing plant
in Fort Valley, Ga., which collectively employ about 630 people. The company expects that the
closures will be substantially completed during the third quarter. The anticipated savings from the
closings of these two facilities is expected to be about $9 million per year. As demand recovers to
more normalized levels, the company plans to transfer production capacity from the closed
facilities to other company facilities in Danville, Va., and Morven, N.C.Mr. Joseph L. Lanier Jr.,
Chairman and CEO, said, “The uncertainty we expressed in our outlook at the end of the first
quarter of 2003 was a reflection of the recent slowdown at retail. This slowdown has since
intensified. Retailers, burdened with excess inventory due to lackluster sales, continue to adjust
inventories by reducing their product intake. The current lull in our sales efforts affords us the
opportunity to make the plant consolidation moves announced today without interruption to customer
service. We will meet future increases in demand by a combination of increased internal production
and outsourcing.””We are thankful to our associates in Fort Valley and Greenville for their many
contributions,” Mr. Lanier continued. “It has been a very difficult decision to close these plants.
We are grateful for their loyal service and their contribution to the company over the years.”Mr.
Lanier closed by saying, “We expect the company’s financial results in the second half of 2003 to
be somewhat of a mirror image of the first half. As the anticipated recovery in the economy occurs,
we should experience a gradual improvement in our results over the last six months of the year.
While our financial results for the remainder of the year may be weaker than originally projected,
we continue to expect to generate free cash flow and reduce debt.”Press Release Courtesy of Dan
River Inc.
June 2003

The “DC” plays a vital role in warehousing and distributing Springs’ finished products.Enter
Springs Industries Grace Complex in Lancaster, S.C., and you enter the heart of Springs bedding
operations. Originally built in 1948 by President Colonel Elliott White Springs, Grace has
undergone several upgrades including five expansions and the addition of a screen printing plant.
Featuring 1.4 million square feet (ft2) of production space, and 590,000 ft2 of warehousing known
in Springs-speak as the DC, Grace Complex employs approximately 2,100 people on three shifts,
working a five- to six-day schedule.Grace Complex incorporates: Grace Finishing Plant including
bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing; Grace Fabrication housing a Springs cut, sew and packing
operation; and Grace Receiving and Logistics Centers a warehousing and distribution hub for Springs
finished products.The mammoth facility also has on-site power and steam generation, water
filtration and treatment, as well as wastewater treatment.FinishingAs Springs endeavors to
strategically balance domestic manufacturing with foreign sourcing programs, Grace Finishing
receives 60 percent of its fabric from Springs internal production and 40 percent from sourced
greige goods. Processing more than 900 million yards annually, Grace Finishing is a huge consumer
of textile raw materials, going through an estimated $17 million worth of dyes and chemicals
annually to produce and finish bedding fabrics and some apparel fabrics.Automated FabricationThe
Grace Fabrication Plant produces 1.9 million sheets and pillowcases weekly. Sixty percent of
production is focused on sheet sets and bed-in-a-bag products. Receiving finished fabrics from
Grace Finishing, automated sewing systems cut, sew, attach brand and care labels, add trim, cut
corners, sew elastic in fitted sheets and even turn pillowcases inside out and fold the finished
products for packaging. These systems blaze through fabric, converting it into finished product at
the rate of 100 stitches per second. Springs associates focus on quality inspection at multiple
points in the processes, and ensure automated systems perform at peak efficiency.Receiving And
LogisticsThe Grace Receiving facility came on-line in the early 1960s, while Grace Logistics Center
is the latest addition to Grace Complex. Featuring 2.7 million cubic feet of storage capacity,
Grace Logistics shipped more than 12 million cartons in 2002 and maintains an average daily volume
of 48,000 cartons. While typical textile logistics centers handle rolls of fabric, Grace moves
boxes of finished product, ready for Wal-Mart and other customers, over two miles of conveyors,
through automated sorting from inventory to tractor trailers.Our domestic manufacturing base may
actually become more competitive due to increasing service requirements, increased differentiation
and demands on reacting faster, said Crandall Close Bowles, chairman and CEO. As Springs focuses on
the future, Bowles is confident Grace will continue to evolve and meet the companys strategic
goals.

June 2003