ITMA Switches To Eight-Day Format Circular Knitters To Participate In 2003

ITMA Switches To Eight-Day Format;Circular Knitters To Participate In 2003Organizers of the 14th
International Exhibition of Textile Machinery (ITMA) have announced that the show will run from
October 22 to October 29, 2003, at the National Exhibition Centre (NEC), Birmingham, England. These
dates represent a change from the traditional 10-day show to an eight-day format. The decision to
shorten the length of the show applies to all future ITMAs.Maria Avery, exhibition director of the
ITMA03 organizing committee, stated, Overwhelmingly, feedback has confirmed that a 10-day show is
too long. We have acted accordingly and reduced ITMA03 to eight days, ensuring that the popular and
busy weekend is still embraced. The reduced period also means reduced expenditure for both
exhibitors and visitors.In other ITMA03 news, leading circular knitting machinery manufacturers
have confirmed that they will take part in the show in Birmingham, instead of attending another
show to be held at the same time in Italy. Avery said, Representatives of several leading knitting
machinery manufacturers have visited the NEC recently, and have been impressed both with the
facilities and the cost-effectiveness of the overall package we can offer we are delighted to
welcome circular knitting machine producers as an important exhibit group.
March 2001

Return To Fashion

Hosiery Show Preview ATI Special Report FAST 2001: Return To Fashion
The latest technology, fashion and design will be cornerstones of the Verona hosiery fair.
 Following several seasons of banishment in favor of the nude-legs look and bare feet,
hosiery, with its allure and seduction, is being rediscovered by designers. The past 18 months have
seen the launching of designs with all the creative genius and provocative flair of past years.
 

From Milan to Paris, the latest fashion shows have proven to be showcases for the latest in
hosiery: fishnet looks, printed and hand-painted styles, perforated styles, embroidered hosiery,
leopard-spotted designs, rhinestone-studded, sequined and beaded products all are prevalent in
todays market.The crisis of the past few years in womens hosiery seems finally to be over,
according to show organizers. The newest contributions to fashion have transformed hosiery from a
mere accessory to a fundamental component of feminine elegance. As well, mens hosiery continues a
positive trend. In the first nine months of 2000, hosiery production in Italy, for example,
increased by 7 percent. Italian exports in the first half of the year increased by more than 10
percent. Exhibition Space Sold Out This rededication to hosiery design and production has
created a great deal of enthusiasm for the upcoming FAST 2001 show, the third edition of the
European hosiery fair. FAST 2001 will held in Verona, Italy, March 21-24, and will feature more
than 160 registered exhibitors from countries throughout the world.Exhibition space in the show has
been sold out since October. Of the exhibitors, 94 are from Italy and 70 from other countries. The
largest group of exhibitors, other than Italians, comes from Germany, which will have 11 companies
represented. France follows with six exhibitors; and Switzerland and Japan have, respectively, four
and three each. Other countries represented include the United States, the United Kingdom, Spain,
Turkey, the Czech Republic, Russia, Japan and Mexico. There will also be 18 Italian and foreign
magazines and newspapers attending the event.Fast 2001 is promoted and organized by Sistema Moda
Italia (the Italian Association of Textile and Clothing Manufacturers). Latest Machinery,
Services And Yarns On Display The show promises to display much of the latest in technology,
accessories and services related to the manufacture of hosiery. Everything pertaining to
manufacturing and distribution cycles, from the most advanced and sophisticated machinery to the
most innovative fibers and yarns, will be on display.Among the machinery to be displayed are:
preparatory machines; yarn and hosiery accessories; circular hosiery knitting machines; linking,
sewing, assembly and packaging machines; special treatment and finishing machines; packing machines
and accessories for packaging; machine accessories; control and computer systems; and services.In
addition to providing a comprehensive overview on a manufacturing and technological level, FAST
2001 will provide show attendees with information, strategies, and financial and public relations
services. The Meeting PointNew for this edition of FAST 2001 will be The Meeting Point, which
was designed and created specifically for hosiery manufacturers. In the Meeting Point,
representatives from companies can meet, compare production, discuss agreements and partnerships,
and establish industrial and commercial synergies.  

The Meeting Point will also host Trends and Hosiery and cultural exhibits. The Trends and
Hosiery display features six themes describing the fashion trends of the new millennium: Feminine
Touch hosiery and its eternal message of seduction; Geometric bold, graphic patterns of the latest
fashion trends; Over The Rainbow the imperative return of color; Relax playful and provocative
patterned hosiery for leisure time; Its Play Time hosiery for sports; Stocking and Dressing inside
and out, the new frontiers of seamless hosiery.FAST 2001 will also focus on the culture of hosiery
and its presence in art and design. An art exhibit will present works by contemporary Italian
artists from the collection of the Luigi Ciocca hosiery factory.More than 14,000 visitors from more
than 82 countries are expected to attend the show. Of those visitors, approximately 55 percent are
expected to come from Italy. Pre-Show Conference An international conference attended by
professionals, designers and experts from several countries will be held on March 20. The
conference will commence with a review of current marketing trends. It will then cover consumer
trends in Italy and throughout the world and will discuss forecasts for upcoming years.In addition,
the conference will touch upon the latest seamless fashions, which are produced on machinery
designed for hosiery production. The conference will also address the fact that hosiery is no
longer just an accessory but an integral element of fashion. The designers and stylists responsible
for this evolution in hosiery use will be present to discuss their work.The pre-show conference
will address e-commerce, as well. This discussion will focus on the prospects for hosiery producers
in business-to-business and business-to-consumer sales. Companies that work along these lines will
be in attendance to share their experiences. FAST 2001 Exhibitors 
Agostoni s.a.s. di Paola e Giorgio AgostoniandCo.Agula S.A. Airily S.r.l.Alkotex S.r.l. Almatex
S.r.l.Aquafil Textile Yarns S.p.A. Arctronic S.r.l.Asahi Chemical Industry Co.Atateks-Istanbul
Atlas Copco Italia S.p.A. Divisione CompressoriAutotex Machinery Ltd. Bayer S.p.A. Bemberg S.p.A.
Borgolon S.p.A.B.T.S.R.Busi Giovanni S.r.l.Calzaccessori di Saleri GianfaustoCantu Egizio
S.a.s.Cason S.p.A.Celbo S.r.l.Centro Promozione FiloscoziaCentro Servizi Calza S.r.l.Cesare Colosio
S.r.l.Cetme di Cristina AttilioandCo. S.n.c. CF Italia S.r.l.Charme ModaChristoph Liebers
GmbHandCo. Condortech S.r.l. Aghi Platine e Tecnologia Tessile Conti Complett S.p.A.Continental
Fibre S.p.A.Cortese S.p.A.CoyarnCubotex S.r.l.Da Kong Enterprise Co. Ltd. Deimo S.p.A.Dinema
S.p.A.Dora EnricoandCo. S.n.c.DuPont de Nemours Italiana S.p.A.DuPont Tactel®Dynalace Textil
GmbHECAElettronica Valverde S.r.l.Eneas Informatica S.r.l.Eredi Ing. G. Fiore S.r.l.E.R.M.E.S.T.
Esox S.A.Exeltor Canada S.r.l. Fadis S.p.A.Fein-Elast Italia S.p.A.Fibrexa Ltd.Filati Borio Fiore
S.n.c.Filats Polinya S.L. Filbrescia S.r.l.Filelmo S.r.l. Filiere Maille

Filippini S.r.l.Filix S.A. Fillattice S.p.A.Filmar S.p.A.Fimatex S.r.l.Finelast de Mexico S.A.
de C.V. Firsan S.A. Flainox S.r.l.Franzoni Filati S.p.A.Fulgar S.p.A.Gabler Band AGGafitex
S.r.l.Giemme Filati S.p.A.Giletti S.p.A.Giornale della Maglieria e dellaCalzetteriaGiudici
DavideandFigli S.n.c.Globe Manufacturing Co. Grandis S.r.l.Groz-Beckert KGHaase + Kuhn Italia
S.r.l.Hamel AG Heliot International S.A.Hepp GmbH Strick-TechnikIluna S.p.A. International Textil
Diffusion Ltd. S.r.l.Investa International Co. Ltd. Irmac Tex S.r.l.Istanbul Corap San ASItalfil
S.p.A.Joint-Stock Co.Jorg Lederer GmbH Elastic-GarneJose Valeri Homs S.A. Kern-Liebers Knitting
Parts GmbHKnitting IntemationalKunert GmbH TWD GroupL. Payen et CieLa Esakon S.r.l.La SpolaLavatec
AG Legnano Tinti S.p.A.LegPromBusiness-Director Linea Intima ItaliaLogica S.r.l.Lonati S.p.A.M.S.
Costruzioni Meccaniche di Zecchi FlorianoandC.Madifil S.r.l. Maschen Industrie/Knitting
TechnologyMatec S.p.A.Memminger-Iro GmbHMendizza S.a.s.Menegatto S.r.l.Metalurgica Textil de
PrecisionMitchell Grieve Ltd.Moda e Industria Via MercatoModamarketing Monticolor S.r.l.

Mucchetti F.lli Elettrotermica S.r.l. Nagata Seiki Co. Ltd.Nilit Ltd.Noble Fiber
TechnologiesNuova Marc Tex S.p.A.Nuova Remital S.r.l.Nylstar CD S.p.A.Officine Meccaniche Riva
S.r.l.Orsi Macchine Tessili S.p.A.Pizzo Etichette S.r.l.PlusProllandLohmann Maschinen und Anlagen
GmbHPuntoandSeguidoR.M.B. Massardi S.n.c.Regal Manufacturing Co.RF Systems S.r.l.Richter
KammgamRifil S.p.A.Rimoldi Necchi S.r.l.Rosso Industrie S.p.A.Rubyco Inc.Rumi S.p.A.Sachsische
Nadel und PlatinenfabrikenSalzmann StretchSaurer-Allma GmbHScaglia S.p.A.Selezione Tessile
ShopperSimet S.r.l.Sina Giulio Agente Rappresentanze Filati IndustriaSiscodataSMC Italia
S.p.A.Soritex S.a.s.Speizman IndustriesSRA S.r.l.Stalam S.p.A.Stiltex S.n.c.Sutermeister
S.n.c.Tecma Engineering S.A.Tecnica del PuntoTecnofil Filati Elastici S.r.l.Tecnoyarn
S.r.l.TekstilandTeknik T&TA Tessile e TecnologieTextile Month Textiles Panamericanos The
Hosiery Association /IHETiflotel S.r.l.Tinarelli S.r.l.Trustfin A.S.Turini Francesco S.r.l.Valman
S.p.A.Wac Data Service Co. Ltd.Worldtex Inc.W. Zimmermann GmbHandCo.Zitec AG
 For
additional information on FAST 2001, or to register on-line, visit the FAST website at
www.fast-italy.com.

March 2001

Guilford Mills Jockey Sign Licensing Agreement

The Home Fashions Division of Guilford Mills Inc., Greensboro, N.C., has signed an exclusive
licensing agreement with Kenosha, Wis.-based Jockey International Inc., whereby Guilford will
create and distribute a collection of bedding and accessories. The bedding will be distributed
under two labels Jockey Home and Jockey Classic.In combination with our global sourcing
initiatives, we believe that licensing and branding opportunities will drive profitability and
growth in our Home Fashions business. We could not be more pleased to be working with Jockey, owner
of one of the most recognized brands in the world, and one that is synonymous with quality,
performance and value, said John A. Emrich, president and CEO, Guilford Mills.

March 2001

Spinners Offer Mixed Reviews


W
hen referring to the fluctuation in pricing of cotton during the first month of the new
year, one cotton-fiber respondent said, “January has been a ‘slumpy’ month.” It seems a seasonal
low of 55.16 cents per pound was recorded on Jan. 5. He went on to say that markets were
rebounding, but not yet to the level of the seasonal high of 63.57 cents. This respondent also
said, “One of the reasons for the decline in cotton pricing was the announcement by the Chinese of
increased production.” Other factors could be an increased carryover in cotton, as well as recent
declines in bales being exported.

He mentioned that early surveys indicate farmers will plant increased acreage this year,
with an anticipated harvest of nearly 16 million bales. The increased acreage are attributed to the
fact that competing crops are no better for farmers; therefore, they plan to plant cotton. Alabama
is the only exception, with an anticipated loss in acreage planted in cotton. This decrease is
credited to the lack of irrigation there.


Improved OE Markets


There are mixed reviews, however, from cotton-yarn spinners. While one spinner will report
his markets as being excellent, another will report his markets as slow. Most spinners do say that
they are running full and shipping all they make. Several spinners commented that the market for
open-end (OE) yarns had improved. One went so far as to say, “Our OE markets are very firm. The
increase in pricing is holding, but there is no difference in the way orders are placed. That is,
there is no really long-term business. About the most we can expect is a quarter ahead. Our
customers buy only against firm orders, and today there is very little spot business. We are
running full and actually selling some yarn for other yarn spinners as well.”

Another spinner, commenting on OE yarn sales, said, “There has been a definite rise in the
demand for open-end yarns, and the pricing is firming up. But, current pricing will depend on
spinners not breaking the stand they have taken. The future looks encouraging, and we should have a
pretty good year. The home furnishings market, which is in a major decline, could throw a monkey
wrench into it, however. If their lack of business continues, it could cause a backup of yarn, and
the market could go to hell in a handbasket in a heartbeat. I’m still optimistic, though. It feels
good to be optimistic — it has been awhile.”

Yet another spinner said, “Our markets are slow, especially in outerwear, but hosiery is
shipping well. The Canadian markets are off, which affects us to some degree. Overall, we are
shipping about 80 percent, with some curtailment. Gone are the days when you could dump inventory.
It is much better to adjust manufacturing to control your inventory. We have recently noted an
increase in the demand for OE poly/cotton yarn — due, we think, to the fact that one of our
competitors went out of the OE business.”


Strong Ring Markets


Virtually every ring spinner commented on the markets as being “extraordinary,” “extremely
tight” or any other adjective beginning with “extr-.” Prices are good, and essentially all markets
are pretty firm. This has become the norm for ring-spun (RS) spinners. Hopefully, nothing will
happen to dim the one bright light spinners have come to depend on.

On the other hand, markets for textured yarns are dismal. As one texturizer said, “We have
no pricing problems because there are no buyers. Seriously, home furnishings are down, along with
automotive and apparel. Hosiery is the only area that is holding its own.”

Synthetic spinners are finding their situation very much like that of the texturizer,
although one said, “January was much better than expected. The fourth and first quarters are always
difficult in our markets but, listening to the comments from our customers, I would have to say
that there is a lot of optimism out there.” Spinners of synthetics feel that markets will improve
early in the second quarter, but they qualify their optimism, saying it depends on the general
economy at the start of the second quarter.


Ripple Effect Of Energy Crisis


One spinner expressed his concern about the West Coast energy shortage, specifically in
California. “California is a large consumer of spinners’ products. Lots of knitters out there are
struggling as it is, and with unreliable power, many may have to go out of business. What will
happen to East Coast spinners if they lose this customer base? I have already heard of one finisher
deciding to stop production.”

As media sources have already reported, the effect of California’s problem could be felt in
many areas across the country. Hopefully, the problem will be solved, or at least alleviated, soon.

March 2001

Open-End Yarn Prices Increasing


W
ell, here we go again! Cotton prices are up, and rayon fiber producers have announced an
increase in their prices due to increasing costs of caustic. Acrylic producers have warned spinners
to expect a price increase due to increased prices of natural gas. Now, finally, open-end (OE)
spinners have begun to ask for increased prices for their products. One such spinner commented that
the OE markets were changing rapidly. He added, “ This price increase has been somewhat of a shock
to our customers, but they seem to understand. However, only time will tell if the retailers will
accept it. One thing is certain — we can’t continue to run our mills and lose money. Our OE
customers are quite optimistic for the first quarter and some have booked well into the second
quarter.” So, everything is not doom and gloom.

Concerning the comment above about customers understanding the price increase, several
respondents have said something to the effect, “Yeah, I understand, but when it comes to the bottom
line will I accept it (the price increase)?”


Ring-Spun Markets Slow


Ring-spun (RS) markets have hit a slowdown, according to some spinners, although the demand
for yarns for the denim trade remains good. Apparel markets for those products are reported as
spotty. Spinners and their customers, however, remain optimistic for the immediate future mainly
because of the last-minute surge of retail customers during the holiday season and the continued
strength of the denim market. Future business for RS yarns depends in part on the ability of the
retailer to move his inventories. The slowdown of RS markets did not effect all spinners because,
as one spinner said, “Ring-spun markets are up moderately, open-end yarn markets are up
considerably, prices are firming up daily, and our customers’ yarn supplies are down. Raw material
costs are up, but overall things are looking up.” Isn’t it good to hear a positive report once in
awhile?

Synthetic spinners are definitely less than happy with their market conditions. When asked
about market conditions, one commented, “Market conditions are lousy! However, we are optimistic
for the first quarter — traditionally the first half is better in our business. Children’s
sleepwear business is improving, but right now automotive sales are way off and home furnishings
are pretty soft. Recently, we have noticed some shrinkage in business for cotton yarns, which
should help those of us in synthetics, but 2001 is going to be a tough year for synthetic yarn
sales.” He went on to say that his company had things in place before the end of the year to assure
a better first quarter. However, he didn’t say what those things were, but he anticipated a solid
five-day work week for all of his plants.

Weavers report that the first quarter “looks promising.” There was some curtailment during
December, but weavers are planning a full five-day operation for the start of 2001. Like spinners,
weavers also report that long-term business has shrunk, making it very difficult to plan their
operations. They also have similar pricing concerns. One weaver said, “Frankly, our customers are
not interested in a price increase and they will definitely resist such a move.” As one spinner
said, “Time will tell.”


Texturizers Concerned


Texturizers report that prices may actually drop because of imports. Interestingly enough,
the imports they refer to are not fibers but garments. Currently, markets for textured yarns are
quite soft and projected to stay that way through most of the first quarter. First quarters are
traditionally slow for texturizers, but improvement will depend on how retailers move their
inventories.

As one texturizer observed, “If retailers move their inventory, business for us will
improve. Domestic capacity is nearly balanced with demand, but the imports from Asia upset that
balance.” Asian production of textured yarn and garments made from those products greatly exceeds
the demand there, according to reports from texturizers. That over-capacity is exported. It doesn’t
seem fair, does it?

It may not seem fair to those affected, but one respondent to the Yarn Market this month
reported that domestic fiber producers are running full. They can do that only because they are
exporting fiber. What’s the expression? What’s good for the goose is good for the gander.

One thing you have to say about people in the textile trades, especially sales — they are
always optimistic!

February 2001

Cone Mills Announces Initiatives

Cone Mills Announces Initiatives Cone Mills Corp., Greensboro, N.C., announced two initiatives
aimed at improving its earnings. The first initiative is the expansion of the Parras Cone
joint-venture denim plant in Mexico. Cone Mills and Compania Industrial de Parras, S.A., have
agreed to expand Parras Cones production capacity by 11 million yards, or 35 percent, for a capital
investment of approximately $18 million. John L. Bakane, CEO, Cone Mills, said, Over the past five
years, sourcing of denim jeans for U.S. markets from Mexico has more than doubled. The Parras Cone
expansion should allow us to keep up with this substantial growth in demand. In addition, since
Parras Cone was originally constructed with the infrastructure in place for this expansion, this
move should further improve the versatility and cost effectiveness of the plant.The second
initiative involves the shutdown of Cones Marion, S.C.-based Raytex top-of-bed fabrics plant.
Bakane commented on the closing of the plant by saying, Raytex did not fit our vision for the
future Cone Mills because it did not have a leadership position in a market dominated by large
vertical bedding manufacturers. In addition, the closure of Raytex will eliminate significant
operating losses, which for the first three quarters of 2000 have totaled $4.3 million, or $0.11
per share, on sales of $14.1 million.According to Bakane, these two initiatives are the result of
continued progress toward the strategy we have been implementing over the past two years.
February 2001

Armstrong Enters Into Talks Regarding Sale Of Commerical Carpet Unit

BIETIGHEIM, Germany, Feb. 20 /PRNewswire/ — Armstrong DLW AG, a subsidiary of U.S.-based Armstrong
Holdings, Inc. (NYSE: ACK) said today thatit had entered into talks with CVC Capital Partners on
the possible sale ofthe European components of its Textiles and Sports Flooring division, which
operates under the brand name Desso. The talks are expected to last several months. Desso, with
approximately 1,300 employees, manufactures commercial carpet and artificial sports flooring in The
Netherlands, Germany and Belgium. Basedin Oss, The Netherlands, the division had annual sales of
approximately$313 million in 1999. “An acquisition by CVC would enable Desso to receive the
investment it needs to grow and better serve its customers and employees,” said ArmstrongDLW AG
President and CEO Gerard Glenn. “Armstrong’s European flooring business is focused on resilient
products, and indeed we would use theproceeds from a sale to grow this core business for us in
Europe.” Although the Company is currently assessing the accounting for the potential transaction,
it is expected that there could be a net loss on disposal of approximately $30-35 million before
any tax benefit. CVC Capital Partners, based in London, is a leading European private equity firm
that has interests in more than 200 companies throughout Europe with a total value of $30 billion.
Additionally, Armstrong Holdings, whose operating unit, Armstrong World Industries, Inc., filed for
Chapter 11 protection in December to resolve its asbestos liability, reported that it would
disclose its financial results for2000 in its 10-K report to the SEC in late March. Although the
financial reports are not yet available, Chairman and CEO Michael D. Lockhart said that fourth
quarter 2000 performance was negatively impacted by a decline in sales and profits as a result of
the continued slowdown in the economy, and higher raw material and energy costs. For 2001, Lockhart
said he expected economic conditions not to improve and that Armstrong plans on revenues relatively
flat versus 2000 and operating income, excluding the effects of asbestos and reorganization
charges, to decline from 2000 levels. These materials contain forward-looking statements within the
meaning ofthe Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995. These statements provide the
company’s expectations or forecasts of future events. Actual results could differ materially as a
result of known and unknown risks and uncertainties and other factors, including: the outcome of
Armstrong World Industries Inc.’s (“AWI”) Chapter 11 case; the company’s ability to maintain
financial liquidity; AWI’s asbestos-related and any other litigation;variations in raw material and
energy costs and the company’s success inachieving manufacturing efficiencies and price increases;
the company’s success in introducing new products; product and price competition caused by factors
such as worldwide excess industry capacity; interest, foreign exchange and effective tax rates;
success in achieving integration of and synergies from the company’s acquisitions; greater than
expected working capital requirements; business combinations among competitors and suppliers; the
strength of domestic and foreign end-use markets and improved efficiencies inthe European flooring
market; effects on international operations from changes in intellectual property protection and
trade regulations; and other risks,uncertainties and factors disclosed in the company’s and AWI’s
most recent reports on Forms10-K, 10-Q and 8-K filed with the SEC. The company undertakes no
obligationto update any forward-looking statement. Armstrong Holdings, Inc. is a global leader in
the design, innovation and manufacture of floors and ceilings. Based in Lancaster, PA, Armstrong
has approximately 15,000 employees worldwide. In 1999, Armstrong’s net sale stotaled more than $3.4
billion. SOURCE Armstrong Holdings, Inc.Web Site: http://www.armstrong.com Copyright 2001 PR
Newswire

Vamatex And Somet Merge

The Radici Group weaving machine manufacturing companies of Vamatex of America and Somet of America
have announced their operational merger in the North American Market. These two companies with U.S.
weaving machines installed surpassing over 3500 is also being merged with American Savio Corp. who
is also located in Spartanburg, S.C. These three market leaders now operating as one company will
further insure future financial stability.Mr. Nikolaos Perackis has already been named one of the
two commercial directors over the newly formed company. Promatech is responsible for both Vamatex
S.p.A. and Somet Weave Tech in the Americas. Mr. Perackis resides in Italy. Further details of the
merger will follow soon.Vamatex and their employees have physically relocated to the offices of
Somet of America and American Savio located at 100 Martin Road, Spartanburg, S.C.

Tradition And Technology

ATI Special Report Tradition And Technology
Frotanna-Textil revitalizes terry production with Sulzer installation. The
Oberlausitz region in the German state of Saxony has a long history of textile production. The
first terry loom in Germany was put into operation there in 1856, in the small town of Grochonau.
Around 1900, there were some 2,250 looms in Grochonau, including 700 terry looms, producing a wide
range of fabrics. Today, the towns Damask and Terry Museum bears witness to the skills and quality
standards that evolved over the course of time.Frottana-Textil GmbHandCo. KG, founded in Grochonau
in 1856, grew with that tradition. Today, the 180-strong workforce produces terry products marketed
under the brand names Frottana and Move. The Move brand is noted for top-quality terry goods in
exquisite designs. Frottana-Textil supplies its products terry fabrics, finished terry towels in a
wide range of sizes and bathrobes mainly to European clients, including all leading vendors of this
type of textile, and the products are becoming ever more popular among end-users. In the past few
years, turnover has increased by over 10 percent per year. 

To keep pace with increasing demand, production facilities have been modernized to reflect
the state of the art. The weaving room has been completely renewed in order to create a highly
flexible weaving facility for high-end quality and exclusive patterning. The main effort in the
modernization was focused on the replacement of older looms with modern Sulzer Textil G6200 F-model
rapier weaving machines, whose short set-up times allow cost-effective production, even of small
orders. All of these machines are equipped with electronically controlled jacquard heads
manufactured by Stli.With the assistance of specialists from Switzerland-based Sulzer Textil,
commissioning of the new weaving facility at the end of May 2000 went off without a hitch. The
anticipated plant efficiency level was achieved within just a few weeks. Ludwig Marschner,
Frottanas weaving manager, said: We have achieved the flexibility we wanted. Setting up the
machines is easy and 100-percent reproducible. The error rate is minimal, thanks to the machines
far-reaching self-checking capability (by microprocessors). The G6200s dynamic pile control allows
special patterning effects to be produced. Changing from three-pick to seven-pick terry is possible
at any time. Each pick can be programmed on the microprocessor and beaten up separately. No special
tools are needed. With these machines, we can surpass present standards regarding patterning
options and quality.Managing Director Matthias Kretzschmer added: Apart from substantial cost
savings, our company will be able to fulfill customers wishes in the future with even higher levels
of flexibility and quality. This is especially true when you consider that the use of modern
weaving technology, backed up by a universal CAD-CAM system, opens up new and fascinating
perspectives in patterning for future collections. Loop Formation TechnologyTerry fabrics are
produced by simultaneous processing of two warps: the ground warp, with tautly tensioned ends; and
the pile warp, with lightly tensioned ends. A special weaving method enables loops to be formed
with the lightly tensioned warp ends on the fabric surface. With the basic method, known as
three-pick terry, three picks form a pick group. Using a special device on the weaving machine, two
picks are inserted at a variable distance the loose-pick distance from the cloth fell, according to
the desired loop height. When the third pick is beaten up, the reed pushes the pick group on the
tautly tensioned ground warps towards the fell, and the loose-pile warp ends woven into the pick
group are uprighted to form loops. Depending on the weave, loops are created on one or both sides
of the fabric.For complex patterns, the G6200 series is equipped with a jacquard machine. For less
demanding patterns, a dobby is sufficient, and simple, non-patterned fabrics can be woven using a
tappet motion. Terry fabrics are often very complex, combining differently colored warp ends with
loop patterns.Terry fabrics are subject to changing fashions and demands for new qualities and
designs. Completely new patterns can be designed, thanks to the rapid development of electronics,
with microprocessor controls and highly dynamic stepping motors combined with modern mechanisms.
One such mechanism is the special terry sley gear with dynamic pile control, as used by Sulzer in
the G6200 F. Via a servo motor, the beat-up position for each pick, and thus the type of terry and
pile height, can be freely programmed for each pick group. In this way, 200 different loose-pick
distances, and hence the same number of pile heights, can be programmed in any order desired. Thus,
the fabric designer has a broad range of patterning options, and the weaving engineer a technology
for improving the fabric structure, because the transition from one pattern element to the next can
be woven with greater precision. Sculptured TerryWith these elements, Sulzer specialists have
developed a new patterning method referred to as sculptured terry. At each full beat-up, two pile
loops of different heights are formed in weft direction. The secret of this method lies in the fact
that two loose-pick groups formed at distances corresponding to the pile heights are beaten up to
the cloth fell together.For two short loops, the pile threads are woven into both loose-pick
groups, and for one large loop, into the second loose-pick group only. It was difficult to develop
a basic weave that results in neat loops without excessive friction between warp and weft at full
beat-up. The solution was found in a special seven-pick weave combined with full beat-up at the
sixth and seventh pick. In this way, a second pile height is also formed in weft direction, making
sculptured patterning possible by the difference in pile height in warp and weft direction.For this
kind of pattern formation, freely programmable sley travel, as is found on the G6200 series, is
necessary. Microprocessor control allows the loose-pick distance to be programmed easily and
individually for each pick. The G6200 F can be equipped with a control system for a maximum of
eight different weft colors or yarns, and a jacquard machine, thus giving fabric designers
practically unlimited scope for the design of terry fabrics. 
For additional information on Sulzer weaving technology, contact Verner Huber or Rudolf Vogel,
Sulzer Textil, at +41 (0)52-262 65 54 or
www.sulzer.com/str_home.html.
This story was published with permission of Sulzer Textil.

February 2001

West Point Foundry And Machine Offers Pre-Wet Sizing

West Point Foundry and Machine Co., West Point, Ga., has developed the new model SAS-PW Pre-Wet
System, which uses patent-pending technology to apply atomized water to warp yarns prior to
sizing.The system maintains consistent water wet pick-up by precisely controlling the volume of
water applied to the warp yarns. Dwell time between the pre-wet chamber and the size box is
increased to allow maximum penetration of water into the yarns. Due to the penetration of water
into the center of the yarn, the amount of sizing chemicals required for efficient weaving is
reduced by 20 to 50 percent.The SAS-PW is the lowest-cost pre-wet system available, said Scott
Warren, general sales manager. It has a self-contained control system and a narrow footprint that
will allow it to run on any slasher, regardless of space limitations or equipment manufacturer.

February 2001

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