The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) has decided to put off for another year
enforcement of some of its hearing and ergonomics reporting requirements. The requirements were
part of the Occupational Injury and Illness Recording and Reporting Requirements published January
19, 2001. The elements being put off until January 1, 2004, include a definition of musculosketal
disorders and requirement to maintain a log for such disorders that occur in the workplace, and a
requirement for employers to provide certain information about hearing loss. The changes were
contained in a final rule published in the December 17 Federal Register.By James A. Morrissey,
Washington Correspondent
December 2002

Take-Up SystemsBy Jennifer Dennard, Assistant Editor All Wound Up
Advancements in fabric take-up systems and winding technology offer enhanced quality and
reduced cost. Large fabric roll batching, introduced to the United States more than 35
years ago, often has taken a back seat to newer, flashier textile developments. Although fabric
winding machinery and take-up systems dont have many bells and whistles, they remain an important
part of a companys vertical process for some very good reasons. Take-up systems offer continuous,
longer runs, leading to less cutting and sewing, and reduced production costs and fabric waste.
Manpower is reduced because fewer transports are needed. Less handling of fabric by human hands
during manufacturing and transportation processes lowers the risk of damage and enhances
quality.Companies specializing in these often overlooked systems today strive to offer not only new
and innovative products, but also improved, often customized, winding machinery.Companies such as
Birch Brothers Southern Inc., ParksandWoolson Machine Co., Alexander Machinery Inc. (Alexco) and
Menzel are in the fabric winding and take-up system business. They know customers want faster, more
reliable winding machinery requiring even less hands-on maintenance and enabling more on-time
delivery. Customer service remains a top priority everywhere. Birch BrothersThe industry trend
is very simple, not only in the United States but worldwide quality, faster, with as much
automation and as little labor as possible, said Steven W. Birch, president, Birch Brothers
Southern Inc.The Waxhaw, N.C.-based company specializes in rewinders that cut and restart on the
fly without stopping. The company currently has 1,200 automatic winders installed in the United
States and abroad. Our new 4-Roll generation of fully automatic winders has been
well-received, said Birch. The 4-Roll Real Time Transfer Fully Automatic Winder produces rolls of
textiles, nonwovens, paper film and foil from 4 inches to 78 inches in diameter, with roll weights
up to 10,000 pounds.

Birch Brothers’ 4-Roll Real Time Winder technology allows in-line slitting and enables
shipping from the production line. According to Birch, new take-up system products, such as
the 4-Roll Real Time Transfer Fully Automatic Winder, would not have been possible without recent
developments in take-up systems such as AC vector drive technology and readily available
programmable logic controllers (PLCs).Recent 4-Roll installations include: Copland Fabrics,
Burlington, N.C.; Springs Industries Inc., Fort Mill, S.C.; Velcro USA, Manchester, N.H.; Highland
Industries, Greensboro, N.C.; and Carpenter Co., Richmond, Va.In addition to its 4-Roll product
offering, Birch also rebuilds, retrofits and warranties as new any Birch winder using older
technology. ParksandWoolsonParksandWoolson Machine Co., Springfield, Vt., has been building
textile finishing machinery since 1826.The company concentrates on the manufacture of
custom-designed face finishing systems, such as shears, tigers, nappers, sanders/sueders and
quality systems.  

ParksandWoolson’s Posi-Winder provides speed or torque control for winding and unwinding
processes.The recently developed AC drive Posi-Winder Wind/ Unwind System continues the companys
investment in leading-edge technology. The Posi-Winder, suitable for textiles, film, nonwovens
and paper, operates as a winder or as an unwinder, and delivers web with consistent tension from
beginning to end, regardless of roll diameters. Surface speed of delivery is matched to the
operating speed of the connected equipment.[It] is simple and provides either speed or torque
control over the process, said A.G. Peterson, president.The Posi-Winders modular design allows for
rapid and easy integration into any existing web line. Electrical integration is accomplished via a
quick-connect interface cable.This single platform replaces the need for different winders for
specific application types surface winding versus center winding, said Joseph M. Gardner, vice
president.Gardner also mentioned the evolution and reliability of AC drive system technology, such
as that used by the Posi-Winder. As of late, AC drive systems have evolved at an extremely rapid
pace. Perhaps more important is the fact that the technology has matured to the point that it is no
longer cutting-edge technology, but proven technology. It is critical that we field designs that
are proven to be reliable (hardware and firmware) and supportable from a logistics standpoint
globally, Gardner said.ParksandWoolson platforms are designed around ABB AC drive systems, which
are more cost-effective when compared with DC drives or hydraulic systems, according to the
company.The AC drive system has resident firmware that automatically, without any additional roll
diameter sensors, calculates roll diameter buildup and compensates in torque and speed mode, thus
providing specific or tensionless winding and unwinding, Gardner explained. This capability allows
us to offer a low-cost (acquisition and lifecycle) platform that emulates both center and surface
winders and unwinders a single solution for any web winding and unwinding
requirement.ParksandWoolson provides equipment maintenance, repair and technical support for its
machines. We can modify or adapt virtually any system to our Posi-Winder design, Gardner said. We
also can provide custom-designed systems to meet any unique needs of our
customers. AlexcoAlexander Machinery Inc. (Alexco), Mauldin, S.C., has taken part in the trend
towards more maintenance-free take-up systems. There has been great improvement in Alexco take-up
drive systems, which eliminate moving parts, said Jeff Davis, vice president, sales.Recent
offerings from Alexco include a center-wind off-loom take-up for technical and specialty fabrics.
The company also offers the Fabricmaster large-roll center-wind take-up for fiberglass or carbon
fiber fabrics. Alexcos large-roll off-loom take-ups feature structurally sound heavy steel
end-housings to enclose drive components, as well as Power Doff to move fabric rolls from take-up
to transport vehicle. Systems are low-maintenance and have low power consumption, according to the
company. They are available with center-wind and surface-wind function. Fabric oscillators also are
available. Alexco take-ups are available for all types of fabrics, as well as for all types of
fabric-forming machinery.

Alexco’s fabric take-up systems are installed at Avondale Mills Inc.’s Horse Creek
Plant. Customization is a large part of Alexcos business. Alexco has always maintained a
strong engineering department. The advantage Alexco has over other suppliers is that we can
custom-design a system for particular or specialized applications, Davis said. Alexco offers
customized take-up and inspection arrangements, as well as refurbishing services for older machines
for installation on new weaving machines. MenzelMenzel, Spartanburg, introduced the first
large-roll batching system to the US textile industry in 1965. It continually has focused on
innovations in web handling and finishing equipment.Today, Menzel manufactures a standard line of
take-up systems and custom-designed systems to comply with customer requirements.Currently, Menzel
offers the Turret Unwinder or Winder, a two-position turret winding system that reduces downtime
and enables quicker roll changes by allowing simultaneous winding and unloading. 

Menzel’s product line includes theA-frame center winder/unwinder.A variety of other surface
winders also is available, including the Electric A-Frame Surface Winder; Two-Roll Surface Winder;
and Two-Roll, Low Profile Surface Winder.The Menzel 3-Roll fully-automatic, computer-controlled
winder enables production lines to continue to run while finished rolls are being doffed on the
fly. An A-Frame Center Winder/Unwinder and a Multi-Station A-Frame Winder are also part of the
Menzel product line. Menzel offers refurbishing services for its older take-up systems as
well.According to Jack Wingo, sales manager, computer-controlled systems, such as the 3-Roll
Automatic Winder, are part of a trend to provide more precise control and improved roll
quality.Developments ContinueTake-up systems have come a long way over the last 35 years. With
advancements in full automation, the elimination of moving parts and mechanical control systems, as
well as lower maintenance, the textile industry is seeing faster, higher-quality take-up systems
continue to develop.
December 2002

The nearly-completed US/Singapore free trade agreement appears to have incorporated most of the
wish list of the US textile industry. While final details still need to be worked out, and the
agreement signed by the respective governments, initial reports indicate the agreement has a tight
country of origin requirement and includes perhaps the toughest Customs enforcement of any free
trade agreement. Since Singapore is not a major player in textile trade, the basic appeal of the
agreement involves other industries where some $33 billion in trade takes place at the present
time.The significance of the pact, where textiles are concerned, is that it may set a precedent for
future trade agreements involving other Asian nations where textiles are much more of a factor.
From the time the free trade agreement was proposed by President Bill Clinton, the American Textile
Manufacturers Institute (ATMI) and its supporters in Congress pressed for a NAFTA-like country of
origin rule and, since Singapore has little textile production, strong measures to prevent
transshipments from other countries. The rule of origin generally requires that goods be made from
yarn and fabric from either of the participating countries in order to qualify for duty and
tariff-free treatment. Since Singapore has little textile production, that means US-made products.
As a result of that rule, importers see little value in the agreement because of the time and
distance involved in using US yarn and fabric. Something that appeals to importers is agreement to
permit 25 million square meters of fabric made in other countries to be imported with the
preferential treatment, but that level of that trade will be phased out gradually over five
years.For the first time under a free trade agreement, all textile and apparel factories in
Singapore that ship goods to the United States will be required to register and provide information
about their production capabilities to both governments.In announcing the agreement, US Trade
Representative Robert Zoellick indicated that the Singapore pact, which still is subject to
approval by Congress, could provide a framework for future agreements.By James A. Morrissey,
Washington Correspondent
December 2002

Supply Chain Management
TW Special Report Streamlining Color Management
Sara Lee, National Textiles work to deliver quality and on-target color quickly,
cost-effectively and electronically. The process of ensuring that the color a designer
picks is an exact match to the finished garment is one of the more complex aspects of apparel
manufacturing. Leading manufacturers and suppliers throughout the apparel supply chain are
implementing new and better technologies to streamline the color cycle. Consider the supplier
portion represented by Winston-Salem, N.C.-based Sara Lee Branded Apparel, and one of its
suppliers, National Textiles LLC, also in Winston-Salem. National Textiles fabric goes into such
well-known Sara Lee brands as Champion, Hanes, Hanes Beefy-Ts, Hanes Her Way and Just My
Size. Color CommunicationIn 1999, Wal-Mart, one of Sara Lees major retail customers, began
exploring the possibilities of electronic color communication. Wal-Mart chose a color communication
system developed by leading color technology provider Lawrenceville, N.J.-based Datacolor. Through
Datacolors Color Information Management System (CIMS), every aspect of the supply chain has the
capability to share electronically precise reproduction, analysis, manipulation, and communication
of color data and images. The system utilizes familiar tools such as color measuring instruments
and color management software, as well as innovative elements such as calibrated computer monitors
and accurate visualization of digital color information.Both Sara Lee Branded Apparel and National
Textiles agreed to participate in a pilot project. Our company has a strong history of building
relationships with our customers, suppliers and other business partners to provide the high
quality, high value products consumers demand, stated Scott Crump, Sara Lees director of quality
resources.National Textiles President Jerry Rowland and Vice President of Textile Manufacturing
Gene McBride shared this philosophy as well, and were open to integrating new technology into their
operations. E-Dips: The First PhaseAccording to Luke Roland, color development lab manager at
National Textiles, while the heavy volume in the color lab made it a perfect place to start testing
the efficacy of the new system, there was initial skepticism.  

Learning any technology represents a tremendous learning curve and many highly experienced
color technicians, those highly knowledgeable in the art of color development, have their doubts.
But, when all is said and done, there just arent enough of those color masters around to keep up
with demand. New electronic color channels offer a method of capturing that knowledge and making it
available in a totally non-subjective manner, Roland stated.Approximately one year ago, National
Textiles began electronically submitting its lab dips. The process virtually eliminated physical
samples and the challenges inherent with any physical sampling process. Physical standards, for
example, are often on a different fabric from that to be dyed in production. The standard may be
physically small, making it difficult to handle or measure. The characteristics of physical
standards printed on paper may cause flaring in certain lighting. And physical swatches
susceptibility to light, heat and humidity can change a fabrics color substantially. Plus, there
can be distribution delays in moving physical samples from one location to another in order to
create a physical standard for each plant.Suppliers regularly need several dye plants to produce
the same color. Using the same electronic standard loaded by central color development allows each
one to dye to an identical target. The end result is a uniform color and better test
results.Independent testing lab Consumer Testing Laboratories (CTL) is able to evaluate e-Dips both
numerically and visually. The numerical assessment of color difference and pass/fail are based upon
standardized color practices. Visual assessment of e-Dips is possible through precise monitor
calibration and imaging an integral part of the CIMS color management solution. The use of e-Dips
in the color development process shared between Sara Lee and National Textiles has led to
significant reductions in the development cycle. Now we can submit a lab dip to CTL electronically
and receive a response in less than 24 hours, said Bill Poore, manager, color development, dyes and
chemicals, National Textiles. Instant e-mail also eliminates shipping costs. This kind of reduced
development cycle, in turn, significantly improved resource utilization at all key points at both
companies, considering the number of new colors each season and the number of lab submits that must
be evaluated. At the manufacturing level, National Textiles color lab matches more than a thousand
new colors per year, often encompassing three to five seasons.And the in-house skeptics Theres just
no arguing with results, Roland said. Now, when the customer sends us an electronic standard, we
can be absolutely sure that we have the exact standard, no question. That fact alone has saved us
enormous time and effort in response and approval times. Electronic Shade BandsEarlier this
year, National Textiles, in full cooperation with Sara Lee, began extending the viability of
electronic standards by testing electronic shade banding. After lab dips have been approved,
examples of the production runs, or shade bands, need to be sent out for customer approval. With
multiple textile manufacturing facilities operating 24 hours a day, seven days a week, National
Textiles was constantly up against tight shade-development cycles.Although much of Sara Lees
branded consumer apparel products are basic apparel products like T-shirts, underwear, and socks
that endure over time, a significant portion of its lines changes seasonally. In every instance,
however, product development begins months before products will actually be available in the
stores, requiring retailers to predict what colors and styles will be popular. We need to be able
to satisfy our customers needs for shortened lead times while delivering a quality product, Crump
added. While final tests have not yet been completed, the company is experiencing a pass rate of
well over 90 percent. Weve already experienced remarkable efficiencies with having the bulk of our
volume shades incorporated into an electronic system. Over the coming months, we will have supplied
CTL with enough production data to develop color-specific tolerances. The goal is to begin
e-mailing shade band information directly to CTL and receive a response within the hour, Poore
said.Electronic submission of shade bands has been particularly useful for companies having
multi-locations like National Textiles and Sara Lee. National Textiles has four manufacturing
locations and a cotton distribution center located throughout the Southeast. Sara Lee has three
production facilities in the Carolinas. We are able to see the variations that are occurring from
plant to plant, and totally eliminate them before they become costly. The reduction in re-dyes and
reworks alone has been worth it. Weve been able to totally eliminate the overhead costs of sending
clerical help to and from our various facilities and to CTL with physical swatches. This money can
now be funneled into other key areas such as new product development and technology, Poore
said. Positive ConsensusSara Lee Branded Apparel and National Textiles agree that the new
electronic color communication system has improved quality overall. From the efficiencies
experienced through e-mailing digital color information to shorter development cycle times and
lower development costs, the companies have ensured unprecedented accountability at every key point
in their color development and production approval processes.Weve had outstanding success so far
with this new method, moving from trial to a fantastic turnaround time, Johnson revealed.The impact
on our decision-making process has been outstanding, Crump said. Weve always worked well with our
suppliers such as National Textiles, as well as with our major customers. Now, we have the tools to
respond to seasonal needs and really any customer request, almost real time.Perhaps Poore sums it
up best. It comes down to communication. We are building a complete color communication system that
seamlessly links and controls color, from the moment it is conceived to the time the consumer buys
it.
December 2002

NTA Presses BushAdministration To Honor CommitmentsThe newly formed National Textile Association
(NTA), Boston, is weighing in on the issue of fair trade for U.S. textiles. At the organizations
initial annual meeting September 22, NTAs Board of Directors issued a resolution entreating the
Bush administration to fulfill each of the commitments tendered to the U.S. textile industry in
December 2001.
(See Washington Outlook, TW, January 2002.) Noting the difficulties the industry faces as
a result of trade barriers established by China, India, Pakistan, Brazil and other countries, the
resolution further calls upon Congress and the administration to deny any further liberalization of
the U.S. textile and apparel market either through legislation and/or an executive branch
decision.Formed as a result of the merger of the Northern Textile Association and the Knitted
Textile Association, NTA represents more than 200 U.S. textile producers and suppliers
(See News, TW, September 2002).
November 2002