Hubtex Partners With Motrec

Spartanburg-based Hubtex North
America has entered into a partnership with Quebec-based Motrec Inc., whereby Hubtex will sell and
service Motrec’s line of industrial vehicles. Hubtex also will provide technical assistance and
training services for Motrec products.

“We are pleased to be associated with Motrec,” said Markus Heinis, president, Hubtex. “
Representing their very diverse line adds a whole new dimension to the material handling solutions
we can offer the textile industry.”

The line includes tow tractors, vehicles for yarn and roving transport, personnel carriers,
heavy carts and toolboxes, trailers and other vehicles. Heinis noted that Motrec can customize
vehicles for specific requirements.


August 2003

IT3 Earns ISO Registrar Accreditation

Greenville-based ITT Technologies
Inc. (IT3) has received accreditation through the Registrars Accreditation Board and American
National Standards Institute National Accreditation Program (ANSI-RAB NAP) to offer certification
to the ISO 14001 Environmental Management Systems Standard.

IT3, a for-profit subsidiary of the Raleigh, N.C.-based Institute of Textile Technology that
provides services and solutions to the textile industry, also expects soon to be able to offer
certification to the ISO 9001 Quality Management Systems Standard.


August 2003

Single-Step Spinning


A prototype of the Uniplex machine as it will be shown at ITMA 2003 in the SSM AG booth.
Licenses are available from DuPont for the Uniplex spun yarn process technology.Developments in
staple fiber spinning are characterized by the idea that natural fibers such as cotton and wool, as
well as man-made fibers, can be processed using the same technology. This forms the basis for the
production of blends, in addition to 100-percent man-made or natural fiber spun yarns.Such
production requires processes that adapt man-made fibers in terms of fiber length distribution,
force/elongation ratio (modulus), fineness and crimp as closely as possible to the natural fiber
characteristics endowed by nature. These factors further define major processing parameters and
yarn properties. Yarn irregularity, the number of fibers in the yarn cross-section and the yarn
count are further defined by these parameters. In this case, man-made fibers are merely components
for blends with natural fibers. Up until now, cotton has been by far the most processed fiber in
the world. Staple fiber yarns provide hitherto unique end-product aesthetics. A specifically
desirable degree of functionality for example, ease of care is achieved by engineering specific
blends.The goal of shortening man-made fiber processing has been apparent for some time. In order
to avoid the roundabout route via carding for fiber orientation and parallelization, filaments are
sometimes processed into suitable fiber lengths by cutting or tearing, and formed into a sliver
immediately afterwards. Then comes spinning by the conventional process of drawing, roving
production and consolidation by means of true twist. Actual yarn production and consolidation by
true twist are the most cost-intensive portions of the entire process. They have led to the
well-known development of unconventional spinning processes such as rotor, friction and air-jet
spinning. These highly productive processes have shortened processing times, where a directly
further processable bobbin is produced from sliver in which yarn quality is 100-percent checked.
Ring spinning also has improved its economics by way of advances in automation and the linking
process. Filament technology consistently follows the idea of continuously producing as far as
possible a directly processable continuous yarn. Advances in texturing have led to a broad market
for these yarns. Filaments dominate today, especially in the industrial filament sector. Here,
filament costs are determined largely by fineness, as production per spinneret decreases with
fineness. If one considers the blended yarn production route in man-made fiber processing, and
concentrates on the production of 100-percent man-made fibers of specific functionality, new,
unconventional direct staple fiber yarn production processes are possible. The obligation to adapt
staple lengths to those of natural fibers is eliminated. This means that refinement does not have
to be achieved using conventional drawframes, and staple lengths, which are considerably longer
than those used today, can be processed.Uniplex Direct Spun Staple Fiber Yarn ProductionDeveloped
by Wilmington, Del.-based DuPont, Uniplex spun yarn technology is a new, single-step process that
converts filament yarns into spun yarns. The starting point of the process is a filament supply
that is four to 10 times coarser than that used in classic filament yarn production. This is a
significantly more economical aspect of the direct staple fiber yarn process. The raw material
basis for low orientation, partially oriented and fully oriented yarn production is correspondingly
more cost-effective because of the higher productivity of the primary spinning process. Supply
bobbins are doubled four to 10 times, producing a similar effect with regard to thorough blending
to that achieved in the classic drafting process
(See Figure 1).


The ProcessThe filaments are continuously drawn in a drafting zone by means of heated godet
wheels, followed by a relatively long break zone. Technological problems consist of continuously
tearing the individual capillaries without breaking the sliver as a whole. Clamping in the break
zone must be reliable. The speed ratio of the clamping rollers at the entry and exit of the break
zone must be adjusted to the fiber modulus, and must significantly exceed fiber elongation at
break. The fibers then are further shortened definitively in a rebreaking zone with simultaneous
refinement to produce the required final yarn count. The length of the break zone and the
downstream rebreaking and refining zones largely determine the fiber length and fiber length
distribution of Uniplex-spun yarns. It is clear that both mean and maximum fiber lengths are far
longer than the fiber lengths usually processed today using drawframes. Perhaps only in jute, flax
and hemp spinning are longer fiber lengths used. These yarns are coarse, with fiber fineness
correspondingly coarse as well. Individual fiber fineness is usually 1 decitex (dtex) or finer for
the new, unconventional direct staple fiber yarn production process, resulting in a coefficient of
fiber fineness approximately 10 to 20 times higher than is the case with natural fibers. The
coefficient of fineness is a function of the fiber length/fiber thickness ratio. A specific
coefficient of fineness must be maintained in the case of conventional fibers because of carding
capability. The coefficient of fineness figures obtained with the new process would not permit
fiber carding. For this reason, only an on-line direct process would be worth considering. The
absolutely parallel fibers must be consolidated into yarn after passing through the breaking zones.
True twist processes via mechanical twist-imparting elements like rings and travelers must be
excluded on the grounds of their lower achievable take-off speed. Consolidation using two-spinneret
air-jet false-twist technology is achieved on the basis of existing know-how and experience of
diverse air-jet spinning processes at the Institute of Textile Technology and Process Engineering
(ITV), Germany. Experience has shown that good strength values can be obtained with man-made
fibers. In the case of new direct staple-fiber yarn production processes, consideration must be
given to the fact that fewer free fiber ends are available for pneumatic wrapping. On the other
hand, due to the high interlacing figure in the woven fabric, the long staple length ensures woven
fabric strengths that inevitably are determined by polymer substance strength. Therefore, yarn
strength is not, as with all air-jet false-twist yarns, directly decisive to woven fabric strength.
The yarn strength and elongation behavior of a 230-dtex polyester yarn demonstrates that the
coefficient of strength variation for air-jet false-twist yarns is higher than for comparable
ring-spun yarns. With a clamping length of 0.8 meter, a mean fiber strength of 19.4 centinewtons
per tex is achieved with a small number of wrapping fibers. This is significantly higher than the
strength of comparable 100-percent polyester (PET) rotor or air-jet false-twist yarns. The minimum
values from 10,000 break trials on a Tensojet also reveal that the process leads to a yarn with
uniform wrapping over considerable lengths. Structural photographs clearly show the wrapping fibers
and the parallel-lying fiber core
(See Figure 2).The delivery speed of the process as a whole
is determined by the efficiency of the air-jet wrapping process, with the geometric arrangement and
the pressure conditions in the injector and twist nozzle playing a decisive role. Depending on yarn
count, delivery speeds of 500 to 600 meters per minute are realistic. Yarn strength must largely
guarantee perfect further yarn processing behavior in weaving. Special requirements in the
end-product in terms of pilling and abrasion resistance can be met by additional twist. Trials
reveal that low real twist (100-200 turns per meter) can greatly change end-product
characteristics.When the yarn is inserted in the warp, additional twist is essential because of the
skim-back resistance required. In the end-product, the yarns produce a markedly different fabric
appearance compared with products produced from filaments. Greater roughness is always attributed
to air-jet false-twist yarns. This provides noticeably greater woven fabric slippage resistance
compared with filament.


Figure 2: Structural photograph of a 230-dtex polyester Uniplex yarn clearly shows wrapping
fibers and the parallel-lying fiber core.Functionality Of Uniplex Spun YarnsA wide variety of
polymers can be processed into fine yarns using Uniplex spun yarn technology, including:extremely
high-strength fibers; highly elastic fibers;flame-resistant fibers;low-friction fibers;
andmicrofibers.End-product functionality is determined by the polymer employed. It is possible to
mix or combine functionalities using Uniplex technology. Maximum-strength yarns with a high degree
of elasticity are possible by combining para-aramid with elastic fibers in the process.The Uniplex
spun yarn process has strong potential. Both speed and application of the targeted use of these
yarns open up a wide field for optimization. The technology is extremely flexible in terms of yarn
count. Success will be determined by the additional functionality of the yarn in the
end-product.Editors Note: Peter Artzt, Ph.D., is head of Staple Fiber Technology, and Anette Arnold
is a scientific associate at the Germany-based Institute of Textile Technology and Process
Engineering (ITV). Glen E. Simmonds is a senior research associate with Wilmington, Del.-based
DuPont.

August 2003

Liz Claiborne Signs Licensing Agreement

New York City-based Liz Claiborne Inc. recently entered into a licensing agreement with Chelsea
Design Group, also based in New York City, whereby Chelsea will design and manufacture intimate
apparel under the Liz Claiborne, Liz Claiborne Woman and Villager labels. The first lines will be
launched to the trade in August, and will be available at retail in Spring 2004.

August 2003

Quality Fabric Of The Month: Boundless Variation

For the second year in a row, Shaw Contract — the broadloom division of Dalton, Ga.-based Shaw Industries Inc. — and Dallas-based interior architecture firm lauckgroup have joined forces to create a carpet product worthy of the Best of NeoCon® Gold Award. The flux systems program, a broadloom carpet collection offering large-scale architectural imagery and including a coordinating modular component, won the award in the broadloom category at this year’s NeoCon interior design
show in Chicago.

The flux program offers a systems approach to design. Multiple patterns can be used together to create what Shaw calls “carpet without boundaries.” The company takes advantage of ground-breaking technology offered by Chattanooga, Tenn.-based CMC/Card-Monroe Corp.’s Infinity Machine to manufacture the collection. The machine poses no limitations on pattern width or length and offers virtually unlimited pile heights, according to Reesie Duncan, director of development, Shaw Contract. “We’ve pushed the machine to its limits to maximize its potential,” Duncan said.

qfom_Copy_3

Patterns in the flux program echo nature’s

rhythms and offer gradations of color and value.

Various patterns can be seamed together side-to-side or end-to-end to provide transitions between areas, allowing designers to create macro-imagery that echos nature’s rhythms and carries gradations of color and value across the entire floor. Shaw says such design is particularly
appropriate for the open, flexible spaces found in the corporate workplace.

Duncan worked with lauckgroup designer Charlie Kane throughout the entire flux development process. “Carpet should be a design tool,” said Kane. “It should enrich the experience of the end-user, and it should add to the emotional experience of a space. This allows the designer to
create compositions of shifting rhythm and color throughout a space.”

The flux collection is made with Solutia Ultron® Color bulked continuous filament nylon 6,6. Broadloom styles use Shaw’s Ultraloc Pattern® backing system, in which high-performance, enriched latex is laminated to a woven secondary backing. The collection’s coordinating modular style, Pulse, uses Shaw’s environmentally sustainable Ecoworx® backing system, which recently won the Environmental Protection Agency’s Presidential Green Chemistry Challenge Award. Ecoworx is a
100-percent PVC-free, recyclable, thermoplastic polyolefin compound with a fiberglass reinforcing layer.

“Shaw Contract strives to be an industry leader in a number of areas including design, technology and environmental sustainability,” said Brenda Knowles, vice president of marketing, Shaw Contract. “The flux systems program that we created with lauckgroup is an excellent testament to our collaborative creativity. We think designers are going to appreciate this innovative approach to carpet.”



For more information about flux, contact John Stephens (706) 275-3665.



August 2003

Encouraging Signs


D
espite recent sluggishness, there’s now some hope of a modest business pickup by fall,
which sooner or later should translate into better apparel and household furnishings sales. In any
event, economists, citing new stimuli, now predict better second-half growth. One survey of 54 top
analysts sees the gross domestic product growing at a 3.5-percent annual rate over this period — a
lot faster than the 1- to 2-percent pace of the first half. And for the first six months of 2004,
these same economists look for an even bigger 3.8-percent advance.

One factor behind this new optimism: US households will have an additional $47 billion in
cash to spend over the second half, thanks to the recent tax cuts. A somewhat more buoyant stock
market and improving business profits also should help. Ditto, consumer reluctance to spend on
big-ticket items like autos, leaving more money available for purchases of less expensive items
such as apparel.

p18_Copy_5


Impact Of Textiles

What does all this mean for hard-pressed textiles? While nobody is predicting a dramatic
turnaround, the hemorrhaging of the past few years should end — certainly with no repeat of the
past 24 months, during which US textile production tumbled 10 percent. Best bet: a flattening out —
with even some fractional gains, but that should be about it. Given the current competitive climate
— exacerbated by soaring Chinese imports — it would be unrealistic to expect any really substantial
bounceback. A lot could depend on how the United States plays the Chinese import card.

The American Textile Manufacturers Institute sees three import-slowing solutions: imposition
of China textile safeguards that would restrain that nation’s shipments when all quotas are removed
in 2005; World Trade Organization action on the ministerial level to retain quota controls; and
pressure on China to abandon currency manipulation, export tax rebates and state subsidy
programs.


Pricing Problems Will Persist

There’s no indication of any meaningful price relief anytime soon. Indeed, despite a weak
dollar, which eventually could make imports more expensive, foreign price competition remains as
strong as ever.

China again is the glaring example of this. Last year, a study of 29 Chinese apparel
categories showed tags slipping a hefty 46 percent. The trend has continued into early this year,
when these same quotes fell another 2 percent.

Today’s more-than-ample domestic supply is another price depressant. US mills are operating
at only around 70 percent capacity. That’s a rate that tends to reinforce already-strong price
competition, as mills push to keep their facilities operating at economically viable
levels. 


An Early Look At 2004 And 2005

New projections by the Global Insight economic consulting firm provide some hints about the
longer term — notably 2004 and 2005. In 2004, the firm sees industry revenues basically unchanged
from this year. But that’s still a lot better than the 9.6-percent, 3.6-percent, and estimated
6.2-percent declines for 2001, 2002 and 2003, respectively. For 2005, Global Insight analysts
anticipate some fractional gains, expecting revenues to inch up 0.6 percent. If these numbers
materialize, it would be the first meaningful gain in eight years. And with little overall change
in material and service input costs, these revenue gains are expected to drop down to the bottom
line.

Specifically, Global Insight sees gross operating profits up for both years. Ditto, the gross
profits/sales ratio, estimated at 19.4 percent and 20.1 percent for 2004 and 2005, respectively.
That’s significantly better than the 18.2-percent estimate for the current year. These profit gains
are pretty much across the board — shared by broadwoven fabrics, knitting mills, and carpets and
rugs. 


Statistical Note

As promised last month, the employment data shown in the table below have been revised and
expanded to reflect the replacement of the Standard Industrial classification system with the North
American Industry Classification System. The industry has been split into two sectors — Textile
Mills and Textile Product Mills — with the items covered by each shown in the table footnote.


August 2003

 

Air Filtration Trends

In a modern textile mill, filtration is very important, and with government regulations lowering
the dust level in the production area, it becomes even more so.In order to maintain a 133-microgram
per cubic meter (µg/m3) dust level in the production area, it is necessary to have a 20- to
50-µg/m3 dust level on the clean side of the filter. These dust levels are based on a particle size
of 15 microns 0.0006 inch or smaller. These are the particles that can get into peoples lungs and
cause the infamous brown lung disease. However, 15-micron particles are not the stuff one can see
flying around in a textile mill. The important and dangerous dust that needs to be taken out of the
air stream is four to six times smaller than a 50-micron human hair. It takes a good filter media
to accomplish this, especially considering the large amount of dust a textile mill produces every
day.

LTG Inc.’s Versadrum Filter VDF-16, shown with the filter media installed (above left) and
without the filter media installed (above right), is an example of a space-saving filtration
system.Choosing A Filter MediaWhat affects the quality of filtration The answer is: mainly, the
filter media. There are a lot of different filter media on the market these days. As a general
rule, the tighter the media, the more dust it will retain. So why isnt every textile mill using the
best filter media available The reason is a tighter media, which has smaller openings for air to go
through and has a higher pressure drop, precipitates higher operational energy costs.Reducing the
velocity through the filter media can compensate for the higher cost. In addition, a lower velocity
will help to improve filtration efficiency because fewer particles will be pulled through the
media. However, in order to lower the velocity, a larger filter is required for the same air
volume. The filter will be more expensive and will use floor space that could be used for
production.Another disadvantage of the tighter media is that it is more difficult to clean. Many
existing filters cannot be improved just by changing the media from an average media to a better,
tighter filter media. The stripper system of the filter cannot clean the new media. Therefore, it
is important to ask some key questions when buying a new filter. What will the dust level be on the
clean side of this filter Can the filter operate with any type of filter media, or does proprietary
media have to be usedA lot of mills have started using a nonwoven-type media that improves
filtration efficiency compared to the traditional media. A standard nonwoven media has an
efficiency of 99.99 percent for 6-micron particles. This efficiency can be further improved with
modifications to the standard media. But the media has a high pressure drop, and so the price to be
paid is higher energy costs. However, if the velocity through the media is kept at around 100 feet
per minute or lower, which is the velocity through most filters in opening and carding, the energy
used is not significantly higher. And compared to using two filters in series to clean, as is
customary in some textile mills, it is definitely a bargain.As already mentioned, reducing the
velocity through the media will require an increase in the filter size. A larger filter requires
more floor space, which is therefore lost for production. Most manufacturers of filter equipment
for the textile industry now offer a compact alternative to the large drum filters. These smaller
filters use half, or even less, floor space than the conventional drum filter.In production areas
that generate a lot of larger waste particles, a prefilter or preseparator is required. For a long
time, most textile mills and contractors used a condenser. Nowadays, the prefilter disc a rotary
disc with a plastic mesh and a suction nozzle has replaced most condensers, saving textile mills
valuable floor space and energy.Another trend affecting filtration is the reduction in air volume
and the increase in waste quantity. This is mainly true in opening and carding operations, and it
is a direct result of technology improvements by the machine manufacturer. In these areas, the
suction air volume per machine has increased only slightly over the years, but the machines
production capacity has increased dramatically. This means a filtration system can handle much more
material coming with the same amount of air. A textile mill in the process of buying a new
filtration system must make sure the filter can handle the increased waste.Different
RequirementsBecause different areas of a textile mill have different filtration requirements,
different types of filter media can be used in these different areas to achieve the same result. In
opening and carding, the best media usually operates with a velocity of 80 to 120 feet per minute.
In spinning and winding, the filter is usually smaller and uses less energy, because the media has
a lower pressure drop.Manufacturers of filter media for the textile industry have been, and still
are, working hard to develop new solutions to help the industry stay competitive and be ready for
tomorrows challenges as well as possible new workplace health and safety laws and regulations. The
trend is definitely towards better filtration using less floor space, while trying to make it
easier for plant personnel to maintain the equipment in the harsh plant environment in which it is
operating.Editors Note: Gerhard Seyffer is president of LTG Inc., Spartanburg. Born and educated in
Germany, Seyffer has been employed with LTG for more than 15 years in various locations and
positions.

August 2003

Dan River To Close Two Plants

Dan River ToClose Two PlantsDanville, Va.-based Dan River Inc. will close a home fashions weaving
plant in Greenville and a comforter sewing plant in Fort Valley, Ga., in an effort to rationalize
capacity in its Home Fashions Division. The closures will eliminate approximately 630 jobs and are
expected to save approximately $9 million in annual expenses. The company cited lackluster sales
and excess inventory at the retail level as contributors to its own sales declines in the first
half of 2003. As product demand recovers to more normal levels, the company said it plans to
transfer production capacity from the closed plants to Dan River facilities in Danville and Morven,
N.C., as well as outsource more product.We expect the companys financial results in the second half
of 2003 to be somewhat of a mirror image of the first half, said Joseph L. Lanier Jr., chairman and
CEO. As the anticipated recovery in the economy occurs, we should experience a gradual improvement
in our results over the last six months of the year.
August 2003

Neumag Offers CAMTRAS 3002 Winder

Neumag Offers CAMtrAS 3002 WinderGermany-based Neumag GmbHandCo. KG has launched the CAMtrAS 3002
winder as the newest edition of its RK III winder. The new winder retains the dimensions of the RK
III and can be retrofitted onto a customers existing line, reducing maintenance costs.The CAMtrAS
3002 combines the attributes of the RK III, which fits below most texturizing units, with
state-of-the-art technology. New features include: use of Siemens standard electrical components;
improved durability of yarn displacement and turntable parts; a bobbin expelling device and thread
guiding elements; simplified electronics; a 12 Mbaud Profibus without hardware contacts and a
faster software controller; and a bobbin holder that combines the Barmag bobbin holder clamping
system with Neumags yarn catching system.
August 2003

Clariant Terminates US Project

Switzerland-based Clariant International Ltd.s Functional Chemicals Division has terminated plans
for the start-up of a large-scale United States-based plant for the manufacture of detergent raw
materials because it is unable to meet certain specifications and requirements on time and within
budget.The expenditure will be entirely written off in the second quarter 2003, with a write-off
charge amounting to CHF 120 million.

August 2003

Sponsors