Organically Grown Signs First Licensees

Organically Grown Group LLC, a Los Angeles-based licensing company recently founded to provide
fashion, footwear, accessories, home furnishings and textiles made with organically grown
materials, has signed its first licensees.

Delta Galil Industries Ltd., Israel, will manufacture sleepwear. Kids Headquarters, New York
City, will manufacture babies’ and children’s apparel; and Kayo of California, Los Angeles, will
manufacture womenswear. The new lines, all bearing the Organically Grown brand name, are set to
launch in Fall 2008.


“These companies are the best manufacturers in their respective categories, with combined sales of
approximately $2 billion,” said Larry Brandt, co-founder of the group, which is currently looking
for licensees for home furnishings and textiles, junior sportswear, footwear and accessories.

Organically Grown grew out of Brandt’s and co-founder and co-CEO Bob Stein’s desire to “
provide organic fashion for the entire family at a value,” according to Stein. Brandt acquired the
Organically Grown and Organically Grown Kids brand names from TJX, a Framingham, Mass.-based
apparel and home fashions retail company that he previously worked for, transforming the assets
into the Organically Grown Group.

Wearology Ltd. — an India-based business involved in organic farming and apparel, as well as
real estate development, recently acquired a 50-percent interest in the new company.

January 29, 2008

Ahlstrom To Expand Production Capacity In United States, Italy

Finland-based fiber-based materials manufacturer Ahlstrom Corp. will invest 7 million euros
(US$10.3 million) to double production capacity for the manufacture of specialty glass fiber
reinforcements at its Bishopville, S.C., plant, which currently serves North and South American
reinforcement markets.


The expansion — the result of growing demand for specialty glass fiber reinforcements,
particularly within wind energy and marine markets — will take place in two phases. New machinery
will be installed in 2008 as part of the first phase. New production lines will be implemented in
2009 through 2011 as part of the second phase.

Ahlstrom also plans to invest 10 million euros (US$14.7 milliion) in additional nonwovens
capacity at its plant in Turin, Italy. The investment will be used to rebuild a machine currently
manufacturing release base papers so that it will be capable of manufacturing wetlaid nonwovens for
industrial applications. The revamped line is expected to be operational by the end of the first
quarter of 2009.

January/February 2008

GoldToeMoretz To Close Burlington Plant

GoldToeMoretz LLC, Newton, N.C., a manufacturer and marketer of socks under its own as well as
licensed brands, and also for private label programs, has announced it will close its plant in
Burlington, N.C., and move production to its global supply chain. The closure will affect 430
employees, with layoffs in its finishing and knitting operations beginning in March and shutdown of
all operations to be completed by mid-year.


“Today we live in a global marketplace, which necessitates the expansion of our Canofil
facilities in Mexico and our supply chain partners in Asia,” said Bill Sheely, executive vice
president of operations. “We thank the past and continued commitment to the company of all
associates at the Burlington facility. This was a very difficult decision, but allows us to
continue to focus on the long-term goals of the company.”

Affected employees are eligible for severance benefits, and a Rapid Response Team deployed by
the North Carolina Department of Commerce will assist workers in finding new jobs and/or training.
The Rapid Response Team comprises representatives from state and local agencies such as the
community’s work force development board, the employment Security Commission and the NC Community
College System.

January/February  2008

Quality Fabric Of The Month: Crossover FR

GlenGuard® FR fabrics from Glen Raven Inc., Glen Raven, N.C., debuted about three years ago to offer comfortable, optimal protection from flash fires and arcing — potential dangers in the oil and gas, electric utility and other such industries. However, these dangers are not limited to industrial situations, and the company now has launched the line to the automotive racing market after showing the fabrics to Terri Popielarz, who races in the USA Modified Series.

“We showed it to Terri, and she said, ‘This would be perfect for the racing business,’” said Hal Bates, marketing director, Glen Raven. “So we took a fabric we had created for another market and did the market extension. GlenGuard FR offers not only excellent protection from flame and heat but, because it is so pliable, the fabric protects in a way that doesn’t hinder driver flexibility like other fabrics can.”

Made of a blend of inherently flame-resistant (FR), solution-dyed Kermel® aramid and modacrylic fibers, the fabrics comply with National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) 70E: Standard for Electrical Safety in the Workplace; and 2112: Standard on Flame-Resistant Garments for
Protection of Industrial Personnel Against Flash Fire. GlenGuard FR equals or surpasses other FR fabrics, including other aramids and FR cottons, in the degree of arc and body-burn protection, and also demonstrates the best protection-to-weight ratio in single-layer garments, according to Glen Raven.

qfom
Terri Popielarz, who ranks 8th out of 103 in her class in the USA Modified Series, models
her racing suit made with Glen Raven’s GlenGuard® FR.

GlenGuard FR also complies with SFI Foundations Inc.’s specification 3.2A for driver suits, and with Oeko-Tex Standard 100, certifying that it is free of hazardous chemicals. In addition, it has been shown to significantly surpass other FR fabrics on the durability and colorfastness
fronts, withstanding more than 150 launderings and showing no fading over a timed xenon light test. It also holds up in terms of comfort and abrasion resistance.

Glen Raven offers the fabrics in two weights — a 4.5-ounce plain weave and a 6.4-ounce twill. It is the twill that is being offered in the racing market for driver and crew suits, and the number-one color for that market is black. Bates said the complete suit includes a FR net liner inside the GlenGuard FR exterior layer.

In targeting GlenGuard FR to the racing market, Glen Raven also designed a second logo. “We needed something more racy, so we put a flag on it and italicized FR to make it look speedy,” Bates explained. “But the oil person sees the brand and recognizes that it’s the same protective fabric he wears.”

Popielarz, who also reps the fabric to the automotive racing market, said her driver’s suit made with GlenGuard FR is the most comfortable suit she has worn; and it is an economical choice because of its solution-dyed fade resistance, inherent FR, and durability and lower cost compared with other aramid fabrics.

“This suit is going to look good and last for years,” she said. “And it’s inherently FR, which makes me comfortable because I know I’m going to have protection no matter how many times I wash it.”


For more information about GlenGuard® FR, contact Hal Bates (336) 586-1325, (800) 630-3759.


January/February 2008

Oerlikon Neumag To Expand Spunlaid Pilot Plant; Consolidate Spunbond, Meltblown R&D

Germany-based Oerlikon Neumag, a business unit of Oerlikon Textile GmbH & Co. KG, will add a
J&M meltblown beam and a second spunbond beam to its existing one-beam spunbond line in its
Spunbond Solution Center at its headquarters.

The expansion, which will necessitate the temporary suspension of customer trials, will begin
in early 2008 and is expected to be complete approximately six months later. According to Oerlikon
Neumag, the updated facility will enable the company to present the full capabilities of its
spunbond and meltblown technologies in spunbond/meltblown/spunbond (SMS) materials, as well as
enable further development of multibeam processes and composite materials.

In other company news, Oerlikon Neumag will consolidate its spunbond and meltblown research
and development (R&D) operations at its headquarters, closing down a bicomponent SMS pilot line
in Dawsonville, Ga., that was included in its October 2006 acquisition of Nordson Fiber Systems
Group.

According to Oerlikon Neumag, the consolidation will allow it to optimize spunbond and
meltblown development activities and better integrate them with its other nonwovens technologies.

“With this move, we not only concentrate our R&D activities at our headquarters, but we
also provide our customers fully integrated state-of-art pilot facilities,” said Dr. Tarik Vardag,
head of Oerlikon Neumag.

The Dawsonville pilot plant will remain open through March 2008 to allow completion of
previously scheduled programs requiring use of the equipment.

January/February 2008

Oeko-Tex Expands Regulations For Harmful Substances

The Oeko-Tex Association, Switzerland, has updated testing criteria and limits for harmful
substances evaluated according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100 to reflect current market trends and legal
stipulations. The changes also make the test parameters compatible with the Arlington, Va.-based
American Apparel and Footwear Association’s Restricted Substances List, and Oeko-Tex anticipates US
textile and apparel manufacturers henceforth will be more interested in testing according to its
standard.


Additions to the list of harmful substances include the organochlorine pesticides isodrin,
kelevan, kepone, perthane, strobane and telodrin; triphenyltin, an organotin substance used as a
fungicide; and asbestos fibers. Testing for chlorinated phenols has been expanded to include all
three possible isomers of the substance, and the limit on the one isomer that was previously tested
now applies to the total of all three isomers. Limits on dibutyl tin have been expanded beyond baby
articles to include products used in close contact with the skin, apparel not worn next to the skin
and furnishing materials.

Oeko-Tex also has modified rules for assessment of active chemical products and now has
banned essentially all textiles that have biologically active treatments from all product classes.
Standard 100 certification will henceforth be limited to products that have been confirmed
independently by Oeko-Tex experts not to be harmful to human health. The restriction also applies
to apparel textiles treated with a flame retardant (FR), but FR-treated furnishing textiles are
exempt with certain restrictions.

The summary of test criteria and limits is available for download at
www.oeko-tex.com.

January/February 2008

Weaving & Weaving Preparation At ITMA 2007


T
he great success of ITMA 2007 proved that ITMA is still the leading textile machinery
exhibition. Weaving and weaving-preparation machine manufacturers competed to advance technologies
that provide weavers with more digital controls and flexibility to produce versatile, high-quality
woven fabrics for a broad range of products that are geared toward vast markets. New developments
in winding, sample and indirect warping, adaptive control systems in air-jet weaving, reduction of
selvage waste in weaving high-performance fibers, and jacquard and dobby shedding systems are
examples of show highlights in weaving and weaving preparation technologies.


Winding Technology

Italy-based
Savio Macchine Tessili S.p.A. showed its Polar automatic winders. The Polar
winders are available with different variations designed to meet customers’ needs in different
countries. For example, the Polar I is designed for use in countries with high labor wages.

The company has developed several new elements for the Polar automatic winders including
Computer Aided Density, Computer Aided Metering, a heat splicer, and a doffing concept that doffs
in 13.5 seconds. The package density is controlled by yarn tension and the contact pressure between
package and drum. The density system is designed to control the contact pressure using an
electronically controlled pneumatic system that adjusts the pressure of a counterweight piston to a
predetermined value suitable for the required package density. Today’s winders are equipped with
metering systems to get equal yarn length on each package — a must to avoid waste in downstream
processes such as warping. The metering system developed for the Polar winders meters the packages
using a combination of a laser detector for the package and speed sensor for the drum. According to
Savio, air splicing combined with heat give an excellent appearance and good strength of the joined
yarn. The main applications of air/heat splicing are high twist, mule spun, wool and wool blend
yarns.

At ITMA,
Oerlikon Schlafhorst, Germany, showed its new fifth-generation Autoconer 5
automatic winder, which was introduced in 2006 and has been sold to Egyptian and Indian textile
companies so far. The new features of the machine include wax disc consumption monitoring, separate
drives and a package metering system called Ecopack FX.

Wax consumption is monitored by a sensor, and the system signals the operator when it’s time
to load a new disc. The disc is mounted 90 degrees to the traditional direction and the traverse
motion of yarn allows it to rub against the wax disc. The amount of wax required on the yarn can be
controlled by the disc’s rotational speed, direction of rotation and angle of contact. The sensor
is a magnet that detects the movement of a spring-loaded element named the wax adopter. As the wax
is consumed, the adopter, which is pressing on the wax disc, moves backwards when the thickness of
the wax disc reaches a small, critical thickness and a signal is shown to the operator to replace
the wax disc. The winder is equipped with several motors to independently drive the package, wax
disc, upper splicer arm and lower splicer arm.

Ecopack FX is a system for measuring yarn length to produce packages of equal length within
1-percent deviation. In this system, the yarn length is optically measured.

The Autoconer 5 is currently offered with a grooved drum. The Autoconer 5 on display at ITMA
had several spindles with grooved drums and some spindles with a smooth drum. The company is still
developing machines with a smooth drum to be marketed in 2008. The yarn traverse is achieved by a
reciprocating element with a U-shaped right short leg. It is termed “wiper” since its motion is
similar in nature to wiper motion. The wiper is driven independently by a separate drive so its
motion can be changed. This enables control of the traverse speed, traverse stroke and winding
angle; and precision winding or random winding. The wiper motion can be controlled to work as an
anti-ribboning mechanism by changing traverse speed at critical package diameters.


Warping Technology

Germany-based
Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH introduced its newly developed Smart Beam at
ITMA. The warp beam data — including style number, order number, number of warp ends, number of
beam rotations during the warping process to form the entire warp, warp length, number of beams in
the size set, beam number, yarn thickness and count, number of yarn plies, material, warp density
and a list of missed yarns — is transferred wirelessly using radio frequency technology from the
warper computer to a chip attached to the warp beam. When the smart beam is loaded to the sizing
machine, data are wirelessly transferred from the beam chip to the sizing machine’s computer. Based
on the information transferred to the computer, the size recipe is determined using data in the
existing database. Size recipes for a new style are proposed by the system.

Warping machine manufacturers responded to the need for companies to transform from mass
production of a few styles to much shorter order lengths of numerous styles. The only sample warper
that was shown at ITMA 2007 was Karl Mayer’s GOM 24 Gir-O-Matic sample warper, which is an upgrade
of the company’s GOM series in terms of creel capacity. The number following “GOM” indicates creel
capacity. Features of the GOM 24 sample warper include: automated processing with minimal operator
intervention; automatic leasing for drawing-in and size rod separation; programmable leasing
pattern; programmable color selection; minimal waste; sample and small-order production
possibility; 24-packages-capacity rotating creel; creel equipped with feeders to handle high
beaming speed; magazine creeling for high efficiency; computerized color selection for intricate
patterning; and warp length capability of up to 1,000 meters.

Switzerland-based
Benninger AG showcased its new Versomat sectional automatic warper, designed to
form extremely narrow warp bands with few wound packages. It can handle a broad range of yarn
counts as well as yarn types, and can be used for extremely short or long production runs.
Warp-band formation is continuous without cutting after the completion of each band. The cutting is
done after all bands are warped. This system obviously can compete with sample warpers. In sample
warping, as little as one package can be used to form the entire warp. Additionally, the color
order is totally flexible in sample warping, a feature not possible in the case of other sectional
warpers.

Ira L. Griffin Sons Inc., Charlotte, showed its newly developed ball warper and
long chain beamer for sectional beams for denim fabric production. Ball warper features include
stops at the center to avoid slough-off, an anti-patterning mechanism, and electronic tension
control. Long-chain warper features include an AC motor to control the warp-band tension level, and
an endless accumulator to put the warp back in the tub in case the beamer motion is reversed to
find and repair broken ends.


Sizing Technology

Karl Mayer Rotal S.r.l., Italy, showed an ergonomically designed beamer for sized
warp beams. The comb can be moved forward toward the operator to thread the ends so the operator
does not have to extend his or her arms and bend his or her back to reach to the comber. After
threading, the comber is moved backward to its running position. The easy beamer also is equipped
with a movable operator panel that can be moved to any position across the front of the machine.

Germany-based
Sucker Textilmaschinen GmbH highlighted a new size box for its Sucker Comsize II
sizing machine. The warp sheet passes under a tension-measuring roll connected to a control system
for constant warp sheet tension. The size box is equipped with three rollers with two squeezing
nips. The size solution is applied on the warp sheet by a spraying system to provide enough time
for solution application; then the size is squeezed by the first nip, and the warp sheet is
immersed in the solution and squeezed again by the second nip prior to exiting the size box to
enter the drying zone. The size box is smaller than traditional boxes, and the amount of size
solution in the box is small. A short pass of the warp sheet provides improved guidance, reduced
waste, improved control of size solution temperature and reduced heating energy. The size feed
inlet provides flow of the solution in one direction to continuously bring fresh material to the
size box. The excess solution overflows into a container connected to the size box and the size
solution storage tank for recycling after filtration. The temperature of the solution is controlled
by two systems. When the temperature has reached the required level, one heating system may turn
off while the other keeps heating the solution to allow less fluctuation of the desired
temperature.


Drawing-In And Tying-In

Knotex Maschinenbau GmbH, Germany, showed its new double end detector for warps
without lease. The double end is detected by a pressure sensor that measures yarn tension during
tying up to 10 times per second. For double end, the detected tension will be much higher compared
to single end. Knotex also has developed a system to detect whether the warp is leased. The machine
then adjusts itself and prepares for detecting double ends if there is no lease — otherwise, the
double-end detector is not activated.

Another innovation introduced by Knotex is the Autoframe® fully automatic tying-in system.
The operator enters the warp and material, then the system automatically adjusts the required
pretension using servo motors. This concept enables the operator to spend only a short time setting
the machine.

The new Basic S tying machine — S for speed — is designed for tying solid-color warps of
cotton, wool linen, or their blends. The machine is preset for such warps, and is ready to tie up
to 600 knots per minute.

The company also showed the new RS 1HPlus reeding machine. The reeding is conducted using
compressed air, and the machine is equipped with a yarn break detector.



Stäubli International AG
, Switzerland, introduced Magma, a new tying-in machine to
complement the Topmatic tying-in machines. The Magma handles coarse yarns that could not be handled
by the Topmatic. The machine is equipped with a new, patented system for separating yarns from the
lease. It can tie spun, multifilament, monofilament and polypropylene ribbon yarns in a count range
from 0.3 to 50 Ne. The machine detects double ends using an optical sensor. It may perform single
or double knots by a push of a button. The knot end’s length is adjustable and can be set as low as
5 millimeters (mm). The machine is designed to have minimal mechanical parts and requires minimal
maintenance.

Stäubli also exhibited a new automatic drawing-in machine, the Safir, which builds on the
proven Delta drawing-in technology. Safir draws in warp yarns directly from the warp beam. Yarn
separation is achieved using a vacuum gripper, the same one that is used in the Opal leasing
machine. A double yarn detection system is incorporated into Safir. It is also equipped with color
recognition for each thread at the separation stage. Safir can draw in warp yarns from two warp
beams, and each beam may contain up to eight layers without the need for lease. Thus, the leasing
step is not required. The Safir combines the Delta and Opal technologies into one machine, which
increases the efficiency of the preparation processes. With the Safir, striped patterns in the warp
direction can be produced easily. Stäubli will offer the Safir commercially in 2008.


Weaving: Shedding Systems

Stäubli commercialized the Unival 100, designed for jacquard shedding, in 2003. The Unival
100 controls each harness cord using an actuator. In 2007, Stäubli expanded the Unival range,
adding the Unival 200 and 500 shedding systems for narrow jacquard and dobby weaving, respectively.

The Unival 200 jacquard system for narrow fabrics was shown at ITMA weaving labels. It
features the same actuator as the Unival 100, but with different power and size. The actuation is
not limited to controlling the shedding motion, but also controls the main motions of the machine
including: weft tension with individual control for each weft yarn, which can be preprogrammed
digitally; weft feed rate; warp tension; cloth take-up rate; latch needle for securing the filling
yarn; and filling selection — up to eight colors — selected filling introduced to open hook rapier
for insertion.

The principle of shed formation in Unival 200 is shown in Figure 1. Each warp yarn is
controlled by an actuator and toothed rack whereby the yarn is threaded through an eye at the top
end of the toothed rack. The selection of warp yarns to be raised or lowered depends on the
rotational direction of the actuator control gear. The gear is turned to a certain angle in a
counterclockwise direction to raise its associated warp end, or is turned in a clockwise direction
to lower the warp end. This is a positive shedding system, as the lower and upper sheds are
controlled with the actuation and no returning springs are used. The Unival 200 system can be
extended to weave wide jacquard fabric using any insertion system. Obviously, such a system
eliminates the gantry, comber board, pulleys, magnets, springs and harness cords.

Page42

Staübli’s Unival 500 uses more powerful actuators to control harness movement in a dobby
shedding system. Each harness is controlled by an actuator that controls links connected to the
harness. Again, clockwise and counterclockwise rotation of the actuators determines which harnesses
will be raised or lowered to form the shed according to the weave design.

At ITMA 2007, Italy-based
Smit S.p.A. showed the Twin Direct Drive independently driven dobby shedding
system on its new GS920 – S 200 N 8 SP rapier weaving machine. The Twin Direct Drive system uses
two motors. There are a main drive and a dobby shedding motion drive, which are synchronized
wirelessly for proper timing of shedding motion, filling insertion and beat-up motions. The use of
two drives provides independence of shed timing from other events on the weaving machine. It is
possible to have different shed timing for each pick in the repeat of the weave design. For
example, if the construction requires filling yarns containing spandex and standard yarns, the
spandex yarns can be inserted with early shed and the standard yarn can be inserted on normal
timing. Another advantage of the system is noise reduction because there are no parts connecting
the main motor to the dobby motion.

At ITMA ’99, Germany-based
Grosse Jac Webereimaschinen GmbH introduced the first UniShed prototype — now
known as UniShed 1 — and showed it again at ITMA 2003 with some improvement. At ITMA 2007, an
improved version of the machine was introduced with the name UniShed 2, which is still in the
prototype stage and is expected to be commercialized within a year. The UniShed shed formation is
achieved using buckling leaf springs. A set of leaf springs is connected to a heddle wire that
controls one warp end. The leaf springs, which are controlled by actuators, control the bottom shed
by buckling downward and the top shed by buckling upward, according to the open-shed principle. The
difference between UniShed 1 and UniShed 2 is in the way the spring leaf set is deformed. UniShed 1
uses the Euler 2 mode of deformation in which the leaf spring is hinged from both sides, while
UniShed 2 employs the Euler 4 mode of deformation in which the leaf spring is clamped from both
sides. The deformation of the leaf springs in the Euler 2 mode creates a half-sine wave, which
causes the ends of the leaf springs to slide past each other in a manner that causes instability
between the heddle wire and the leaf springs. Euler 4 creates a complete sine wave, which
eliminates the instability.

The configuration of the jacquard head and the individual control of each heddle wire allows
the heddles to be set vertically. These settings permit the elimination of harness cords, magnets,
hooks, pulleys, springs and the gantry, resulting in reduced building and air conditioning costs.
The jacquard head can be mounted directly on the side frames of the weaving machine, thus making
quick style change possible in jacquard weaving because it is easy to exchange the entire jacquard
head including the heddles. The preparation of the new style can be done in the drawing-in room
with the desired number of warp yarns and warp density.

Switzerland-based
Jakob Müller AG Frick’s Digital Direct MDLA label-weaving air-jet machine equipped
with the new jacquard concept — shown for the first time at ITMA 2003 — was one of the main
attractions at ITMA 2007. The patented shedding system allows the elimination of gantry, pulleys,
harness cords and comber board. In this system, each warp yarn is individually controlled by a
special heddle and retaining hook. The heddle element is a hollow structure that accommodates the
hook element inside. Shed formation is achieved using a roller that moves down and up in every
weaving cycle. The initial warp sheet position is in the upper shed, and the bottom shed is formed
when the roller pushes the warp sheet down and the selection is made for warp yarns for the lower
shed. The selected warp yarns are retained at the lower shed by the hook elements. The heddle
element is kept in its upper position using an activated magnet, and, as a result, the hook does
not obstruct the warp end that moves up with the roller. If the magnet is not activated, the heddle
is kept down by a spring, and thus, the hook retains the corresponding warp at the bottom shed.

While the MDLA machine was shown weaving labels, the concept can be extended to weave any
type of fabric using any type of filling insertion system.


Weaving Speed

And Range Of Fabric Types

Weaving machine manufacturers exhibited a range of machines capable of weaving a broad range
of fabrics at high speeds. Switzerland-based
Sultex Ltd. did not show its multiphase weaving machine M8300, which had been
shown at every ITMA since 1995. This may be because of low demand as a result of the machine’s
limited weave structures and warp and pick densities. Water-jet machines also were absent at ITMA
2007.


Air-Jet Weaving Machines

Air-jet weaving’s ability to adapt to new markets continued to be demonstrated at ITMA 2007.
This is related in part to further improvement of adaptive control systems that control the air
speed, and the rate of filling yarn insertion through the shed. Companies with air-jet weaving
machines on display at ITMA included Japan-based
Toyota Industries Corp., Japan-based
Tsudakoma Corp., Smit, Sultex, Germany-based
Lindauer Dornier GmbH, the Italy-based
Itema Group with its Somet and Vamatex brands, and Belgium-based
Picanol NV.

Toyota’s JA2S-340TP-ET-T170 air-jet machine was demonstrated weaving 3.11-meter-wide bed
sheeting at a rate of 750 picks per minute (ppm) with four insertions. The four yarns were fed from
four weft packages to one filling feeder. While this is a much simpler way of handling the filling
yarn compared to using four feeders, the fabric hand may be affected due to twisting of the four
weft yarns while being unwound from the feeder during insertion — every coil on the feeder causes
one turn in the weft yarns. Additional turns may be added during transport of the weft yarns
through the profiled reed. Analysis is required to check whether this setting may produce thicker,
rougher fabric compared to other multi-weft insertion techniques.

At this ITMA, Picanol’s OMNIplus 800 4-P 190 air-jet machine ran at the highest speed — 2,007
ppm — a record for single-phase weaving. The record of 3,222 meters per minute rate of filling
insertion (RFI) of Tsudakoma’s ZAX-190-2C machine shown at ITMA ‘99 was not broken. This is
obviously due to the difference in the warp width in the reed.

Dornier’s new CLS air-jet machine with Stäubli dobby is equipped with a new drive termed
SyncroDrive, designed for a machine equipped with dobby shedding motion. The drive focuses on the
stability of rotational speed. The SyncroDrive system concept separates the large dobby mass from
the drive at the starting moment. This permits a high-speed start and elimination of start marks.
The CLS machine was shown weaving fine worsted menswear at speed and filling insertion rates never
before reached for such a fabric.


Rapier Weaving Machines

There were more rapier weaving machines on display at ITMA than any other type of weaving
machine — thanks to the versatility of this technology in handling filling yarns. This technology
can handle any type of filling yarn and can switch from very thin yarn to heavy yarn, slub yarn,
fancy yarn, or multiple insertions in the same fabric without the need for a complex control
system. Companies exhibiting rapier machines included Smit, Sultex, Dornier, Itema, Picanol and
Italy-based
Panter S.r.l.



Projectile Weaving

Machines, Selvage Technology

Projectile weaving continues to be dominated by Sultex. Only one machine — model P7300HP V8 B
390 N 2 EP weaving heavy denim at 400 ppm and an RFI of 1,497 m/min — was exhibited. The declining
number of projectile machines is an indication of the growing popularity and demand for air-jet and
rapier machines because of their versatility and speed.

Smit showed a new tuck-in selvage-forming system for centers and edges. The system is
developed for terry fabrics and was shown with Smit’s new GS920 – B 260 F 8 J rapier machine,
equipped with drop back reed. The tuck in works when the reed moves forward to beat up and develop
the loop. It can be adjusted to tuck-in for different terry designs — three-pick and five-pick, for
example. The company also showed a tension-control mechanism designed for terry fabrics that uses a
three-roller system — including the back rest — to monitor and control pile warp tension. The
mechanism guarantees loop height consistency by monitoring and maintaining constant tension.

Looking at the weaving speed and RFI at this and previous shows, it can be said changes are
not a significant indication of reaching the limit for single-phase weaving. One way to exceed
these limits is to develop multiphase weaving machines that can be equipped with dobby and jacquard
shedding systems.


Reduction In Energy Consumption

Energy costs are dramatically increasing. At ITMA 2007, several developments for saving
energy in air-jet weaving were exhibited — energy consumption is known to be high in air jet. It is
well-documented that filling yarn arrival times get shorter and shorter as the filling yarn package
gets smaller because of yarn structure changes from the outside to the inside of the package.
Variation of yarn surface structure from pick to pick also is possible. Adaptive control systems
have been developed to address this issue. More developments in these systems have been reported by
several machine manufacturers.

Adaptive relay valve drive (ARVD) is an automatic system from Picanol that controls the
closing time of the relay nozzles on a pick-by-pick basis because these nozzles consume 75 percent
of the air used during weaving. The system monitors the winding information of the filling feeder
and decides the closing time of each relay nozzle for each pick accordingly. The relay nozzle
valves close early with package size reduction. Consequently, compressed air consumption is
reduced. Picanol reported the system works well with a broad range of spun and filament yarns.

Another development by Picanol is the Autospeed system, which automatically increases weaving
speed to keep the arrival moment fixed, thus reducing energy consumption per fabric unit produced.
The pneumatic catching device (PCD) is a new system that mechanically arrests the filling yarn at
the arrival end. The device is operated by two air-controlled plungers. The first plunger is for
clamping, and the second is for stretching the filling yarn and keeping it under constant tension.
The device is located on the reed next to the filling sensor. The devices replace the relay nozzles
for holding and stretching the filling yarn and also reduce air consumption by up to 30 percent,
according to Picanol.

Active Weft Control (AWC) is a new system from Sultex that optimizes air consumption by
placing the relay nozzle valves close to the nozzles. The system was shown on air-jet machine L5500
at ITMA 2007. In traditional versions, four relay nozzles are controlled by one valve. Optionally,
two nozzles are allocated to one valve. The main component of the system is the Real Time
Controller (RTC), which monitors the yarn’s progress during insertion and controls the relay
nozzles to optimize their blow time accordingly. Sultex claims the system may reduce air
consumption by 10 to 40 percent depending on the yarn type and machine width.

Toyota introduced the Automatic Pick Controller on its JAT710 air-jet machines. The system
automatically synchronizes air injection of the conical tandem main nozzle with the arrival of the
filling yarn. It is claimed the system reduces air consumption by 20 percent.

Tsudakoma introduced the Twin Nozzle Valve designed with a secondary chamber. The system
allows sharp air jetting for a quick response to speed. The company reports air consumption is
reduced by 10 percent.

Dornier introduced new relay nozzles, special stretch nozzles, and TandemPlus main nozzles.
According to the company, the new designs reduce air consumption by up to 28 percent.

Picanol and Dornier showed new mechanical clamps for air-jet weaving — both companies have
applied for patents. Picanol’s clamp is a mechanical device operated by air. The system clamps the
filling yarn when it is not being inserted. The recognized advantages of the system are:
elimination of continuous or significantly reduced air flow; prevention of filling yarn damage
resulting from air flow; reduced snarling of high twist yarns containing spandex, resulting in
fewer defects and/or stops; and low twist and slub yarns processing without blowing the tip off at
the start of insertion. Dornier’s mechatronic Positive Weft Clamp (PWC) eliminates the use of
compressed air and clamps the filling thread until it is ready to be inserted into the shed.


Material Waste Reduction

Dornier showed its new DuoColor device for rapier weaving, which reduces filling waste by
reducing the length of fringe. Depending on yarn type, selvage waste can be reduced by more than 50
percent. The DuoColor is limited to two types of yarns. It was shown on the PTS 2/S 20 rapier
machine weaving ballistic fabric from aramid yarns to demonstrate waste savings for such expensive
yarns.

Sultex also showed a filling-yarn waste-saving device on one of its new rapier machines, the
G6500 W 190 F 4 SP, which was weaving protective aramid fabrics. The machine features a special
filling brake system to reduce its speed and thus control filling length precisely, reducing waste.


Fancy Effects

Italy-based
Bulgaro Officina Meccanica S.n.c. showed a weaving machine equipped with a fan
reed that can be preprogrammed to provide design effects. The reed’s vertical movement varies the
warp density from high to low along the design in the warp direction. The loom was also modified to
produce pleated effects by reversing the fabric take-up and let-off to allow high beat-up force.
The combined effect is a pleat that protrudes out of the fabric surface.


Transport Systems

Germany-based
Genkinger Hubtex GmbH showed its new material handling equipment for weaving and
knitting with a range of applications — from transporting empty beams, full warp beams, sized beams
and cloth rolls to drawing-in systems for warp beams, drop wires, harnesses and reeds. The
battery-operated KEFU 30 transport system can quickly — at 8 to 11 kilometers per hour, depending
on load — transport empty and full warp beams weighing up to 3,000 kilograms (kg) from one room to
another. The servo steering of this system allows maneuvering in tight spaces, and the system can
handle wide beams ranging from 700 to 1,300 mm in diameter.

Genkinger Hubtex’s EE-KHUR 25 system is ideal for transporting full beams made of sensitive
yarns to the weaving room. The system supports the beam from the bearing ends without touching the
warp yarns. The maximum load it can handle is 2,500 kg, and it is equipped with smooth lateral and
extended movements for easy transfer of the beam from the system to the loom.

The EE-GYR 25 system, with a capacity of 2,500 kg, is designed to deliver warp beams to terry
weaving machines that require two beams. The design of this truck is compact, with narrow transport
width.


Heddle Wires

The demands on high-performance weaving are on the rise, and traditional heddle wires with
sharp edges are harmful to high-performance fibers. There is a desperate need for heddles with
rounded edges. Responding to this demand, Switzerland-based
Grob Textil AG developed new heddles, termed TWINtec, for such brittle yarns. The
heddles also are suitable for weaving tapes, keeping the ribbon orientation without twisting. The
heddle eye is formed between two small, smooth rods that provide a low friction, round surface of
contact.


Shuttle Weaving Is Back In Demand

Shuttle looms — last shown at ITMA ’79 — have been replaced by the advances offered by
high-speed shuttleless weaving machines. Though declining, the number of shuttle looms operated in
the world is still higher than the number of shuttleless weaving machines. The number of shuttle
looms will continue to decline, but they will not disappear. Many specialty fabrics produced using
shuttle looms cannot be produced by shuttleless weaving, including fire hoses, endless belts and
artificial blood vessels. With the availability of parts from old looms waning, and the outdated
technology found on shuttle looms, weavers are demanding that manufacturers produce new looms
featuring today’s electronics and technology.

Germany-based
Mageba Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. OHG has responded to the demand with the
development of the new SSL MT and SL series looms. At ITMA 2007, the company showed two shuttle
looms producing tubular fabrics. The SL loom is designed for single narrow fabrics up to 80 mm in
width, and is equipped with a 200-ppm-maximum-speed variable drive. The SSL MT 170 model is
designed for multiple narrow fabrics up to 150 mm wide. Multiple shuttles — up to four for each
fabric — are available to permit production of medical fabrics for implants such as bifurcated
implants. The looms can be equipped with dobby or jacquard shedding systems to produce intricate
fabrics for labels.

It is believed that more weaving machine manufacturers will follow suit and begin
manufacturing wide shuttle machines for special needs.


Future Opportunities

The new developments in weaving and weaving preparation equipment provide a range of
opportunities for woven fabric manufacturers. The growing use of electronic controls has led to a
reduction in heavy mechanical parts and provides machines that can be maintained easily. Some
manufacturers have responded to the need to reduce the environmental impact through reduction in
energy consumption and raw material waste. Future ITMA shows are expected to reveal more advances
in this direction because of the mounting pressure arising from energy and raw material cost
increases. The continuous demand in developed nations for equipment to handle much smaller orders
with minimal waste has been met by developing new sample and sectional warpers.

January/February 2008

Biancalani’s Airo® 24


S
howcased last September at ITMA 2007 in Munich, Germany, Biancalani’s Airo® 24 represents
the latest generation of the Italy-based textile finishing machinery maker’s well-known Airo line
of fabric softening and drying machines. The new continuous-process machine for open-width fabrics
follows Biancalani’s Airo 2 and 4 machines for batch rope treatment of fabrics into the
marketplace, building on the success of the earlier machines, of which more than 1,200 have been
sold worldwide in various configurations over the past 20 years.

The Airo 24 — which has been developed in cooperation with the company’s customers and tested
in textile mills with excellent results, according to Biancalani — provides a distinct hand to a
wide range of natural-, synthetic- and/or man-made-fiber textiles including apparel fabrics that
have a soft, smooth hand; upholstery fabrics such as jacquards that exhibit volume and
three-dimensionality, and other upholstery fabrics that have a soft hand; synthetic leathers that
look like the real thing; and terry towels whose bulk and softness have come to represent the
standard expected by consumers.

airo24

Operating at a width of 360 centimeters and a speed of 40 meters per minute, the Airo 24 can
process up to 600 kilograms of fabric per hour at a maximum temperature of 200°C. The predrying
step is eliminated, even for heavy fabrics such as terrycloth; and the intense mechanical effect
eliminates the need to use chemicals, except for optional softeners, in the process.


Fifty Years Of Innovation

Since its founding in 1957, Biancalani has offered its textile machinery and services to the
textile industry, initially offering milling machinery to local markets. In the late 1980s, the
company developed the first in its series of innovative Airo machines for washing, softening and
drying fabrics, offering a new way to finish fabrics that provided them with what has become
identified as the Airo hand.

Other machines offered by the company include the Petra® open-width and
continuous-wet-process machine for eco-friendly surface abrasion, color degradation and
micro-fibrillation of woven fabrics; the Milla® combined milling and washing machine for the
wool-milling sector; the Spyra® continuous tumbler for woven, knitted, nonwoven and synthetic
leather fabrics in rope form, based on a patented rotating drum system; and the Spyra Compact
tumble dryer for fabric in rope form with continuous or discontinuous options.

Biancalani took the occasion of ITMA 2007 to celebrate its 50th anniversary, hosting an event
at which the company’s founder, Fiorenzo Biancalani, thanked the more than 70 representatives from
around the world who attended.



January/February 2008

NCSU, NC DOC Launch NC Textile Connect Website

North Carolina State University (NCSU), in partnership with the North Carolina Department of
Commerce (NC DOC), has launched N.C. Textile Connect, located at
www.nctextileconnect.com, with the aim of fostering business
opportunities for the state’s textile and textile-related companies.

N.C. Textile Connect features a database of more than 1,500 companies ranging from designers
and raw material suppliers through to marketers of finished products. Visitors to the website may
find information related to all aspects of the North Carolina textile supply chain. Other
information offered includes demographics, statistics and events.

According to “State of the Union of the Textile Industry in North Carolina,” a report funded
by the NC DOC and conducted by NCSU in 2006, the state leads the nation in the number of textile
production employees and ranks fourth in the number of apparel production employees, with more than
130,000 total employees and sales totaling more than $35 billion in that year.

“Today’s textile industry is very much an international business,” said Blanton Godfrey, dean
of the NCSU College of Textiles. “With this website, a company in a major textile-producing country
such as China or Japan looking for a business partner in North Carolina can find information about
our companies quickly and easily. At the same time, it allows North Carolina companies to interact
in new ways. We believe this will provide a strong boost to the industry.”

NCSU College of Textiles doctoral student Stacey Frederick oversaw the work of gathering
information and compiling the database, as well as the website development.

January/February 2008

Techtextil North America: Thinking Beyond Niche


A
s the textile industry in North America begins to deal with a number of new challenges
this year — recently enacted and pending trade agreements, currency woes, unceasing increases in
raw material costs and the clarion call to go green — all the while remaining competitive and even
profitable — the term “niche” perks up the ears of many who are looking for a way to maintain
relevance and viability in their respective sectors.

Frank Horn, president of the Fiber Economics Bureau — the statistics division of Arlington,
Va.-based American Fiber Manufacturers Association Inc. — feels there is a natural evolution going
on right now in the North American textile industry, and  “niche” may not be a broad enough
term to describe it.

“It’s about remaining competitive, but it’s also taking your expertise and reapplying it to
areas where your competitors can’t,” Horn explained.

In textiles, “niche” has become synonymous with “technical” — US textile companies are now
going beyond traditional textile manufacturing methods to incorporate new techniques to offer
customers end products with that extra something not offered by foreign competitors. The term has
become the saving grace of many companies that struggle to deal with the effects of globalization
on a daily basis. Businesses are adding technical textiles and nonwovens capabilities and products
to their product lines in order to carve out their own niches.

ttnaopen
Techtextil North America organizers hope to attract a record number of visitors to this
year’s event.


Trade Shows

Reflect Industry Health, Growth

A reliable indicator of an industry’s ability to remain competitive is trade show
participation. A record number of visitors attended last year’s Frankfurt edition of Techtextil,
International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens. Show participants rated the economic
situation in the sector as “better than ever”
(See “
Techtextil,
Avantex Set New Records
,” September/October 2007, www.TextileWorld.com)
.

Techtextil North America (TTNA) — touted by Atlanta-based organizer Messe Frankfurt Inc. as “
North America’s premier trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens” — and its accompanying
symposium will be held April 1-3 at the Cobb Galleria Centre in Atlanta. Messe Frankfurt hopes to
surpass the 329 companies from 25 countries that exhibited at the last event, held in 2006, as well
as the 4,000 visitors from 43 countries that attended.

“Techtextil North America 2008 will be the fifth edition of the show, and we are expecting
this one to be the biggest one yet,” said Stephanie Everett, group show manager – textile shows,
Messe Frankfurt. “We currently have more staff dedicated to this event than ever before, and the
technical textile/nonwovens industry has come to see TTNA as a reliable source for education,
networking and business development.

“The show continues to grow in both exhibitors and visitors,” she added. “For visitors, we
just keep further reaching into the North American market and branding the event. For exhibitors,
the biggest growth is, of course, international.”

Industry partners include the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC),
Research Triangle Park, N.C. — a participating sponsor of TTNA since its inception; the Fiber
Economics Bureau; the National Textile Center (NTC), Spring House, Pa.; the North Carolina State
University Nonwovens Cooperative Research Center (NCRC), Raleigh, N.C.; and a number of
textile-related publications, including

Textile World
,

Textile World Asia
and
Textiles Panamericanos.


Nuts And Bolts

TTNA will categorize exhibitors into the following 10 product groups spread throughout
144,000 square feet of show floor space:

•    research, development, planning and consultancy including international,
industrial and government research institutes and centers, universities and planning and
consultancy firms, among others;

•    technology, machinery and accessories including processing technology,
machinery, waste disposal and recycling technology and quality assurance, among others;

•    fibers and yarns;

•    wovens, scrims, braids and knitted fabrics including belts, cordage,
cords, nets, ropes, string and tapes, among others;

•    nonwovens;

•    coated textiles including awning materials, coverings, laminated
textiles, tent/canvas materials, packaging materials, sacking and tarpaulin fabrics, and
accessories;

•    composites including textile sheet products, textile-reinforced plastic
and concrete, membrane systems and fiber-reinforced materials, among others;

•    bondtec including surface treatment technologies, finishing processes,
and laminating and coating technologies, among others;

•    associations; and

•    publishers.

In addition to product groups, organizers have arranged visitor target groups into 12
application areas. This arrangement will help visitors find the exhibitors that will best serve
their needs, and will help exhibitors define their products for their target markets.


Global Presence

Several nations will host pavilions at TTNA in order to highlight technical textiles and
nonwovens technologies from within their regions. Canada, China, Taiwan, Germany, France, Italy and
Portugal have already announced plans to participate.


Comprehensive Symposium

The Techtextil-Symposium North America (TTSNA) will offer 13 sessions and 65 presentations
covering the gamut of technical textiles — from an overview of the state of the industry and
presentations covering the concerns of global expansion, high-performance nonwovens, working with
the government, and composites; to those dealing with extreme fibers, automotive, nanotechnology,
body armor for law enforcement protection, and enhancing value through finishing

(See Table 1)
.

Allen E. Gant Jr., president and CEO of Glen Raven Inc. — a Glen Raven, N.C.-based
high-performance fabrics manufacturer known for its emphasis on thriving through constant
innovation — will present the symposium’s keynote speech Tuesday morning. Gant will discuss how
Glen Raven has remained ahead of global competitors in the field of specialty fabrics despite the
downturn of the US textile industry
(See ”
Executive
Forum
,” January/February 2008)
.

Dr. Sabit Adanur of Auburn, Ala.-based Auburn University’s Department of Polymer and Fiber
Engineering, will chair TTSNA’s composites section. Adanur believes strongly in the event’s goal of
showcasing technical textiles.

“Unlike traditional apparel textiles, technical textiles are used in every industry from
outer space to deep oceans, from leisure to deep inside the body, in transportation, safety,
protective, military, defense, filtration, civil engineering, composites, medicine, papermaking …
you name it,” Adanur explained. “However, general public and non-textile professionals do not know
the application areas of technical textiles, and they should be educated with shows like
Techtextil. As long as the other industries are alive, technical textiles will also be alive and
well.”


For more information about TTNA, contact (770) 984-8016, Ext. 411; fax (770) 984-8023;
techtextil@messefrankfurt.com; www.techtextilna.com.

For more information about TTSNA, contact Bill Smith (864) 292-8121; fax (864) 292-5333;
billsmith@intexa.com.




January/February 2008

Sponsors