ZURICH, Switzerland — November 7, 2012 — There is always a lot of discussion about the ongoing
competition between cotton and synthetic fibers, which is to be expected. The two industries fight
hard for every scrap of market share to ensure their future profitability.

But the biggest threat to cotton’s future viability isn’t rayon, nylon, or even polyester —
it’s the cell phone. And education. And healthcare, food, and fuel.

That was the primary message delivered by Cotton Incorporated’s Mark Messura during his
presentation at the annual meeting of the International Textile Manufacturers Federation, held in
Hanoi, Vietnam Nov. 4-6.

“Without question, the competition between cotton and synthetic fibers is intense, but the
real concern for all of us in the textile industry is that people today have increasingly diverse
expenses” that eat into their expenditures on clothing, he said. In the United States, for example,
clothing’s share of total consumer spending has dropped from 5.7% in 1989, to 4.7% in 1999, to 3.5%
in 2011.

At the same time, healthcare expenditures have grown from 5.1% to 5.3% to 6.7% during that
time period. Fuel expenditures have increased from 3.5% in 1989 to 5.3% in 2011, while education
expenditures jumped from 1.3% to 2.1% during that timeframe.

While cotton and synthetic fibers will continue to fight tooth and nail for market share, the
bigger picture for cotton is the ability to expand its number of uses and applications.

“Between 80% and 85% of all cotton produced in the world goes into clothing, and clothing
will continue dominate the end uses for cotton,” he said. “But it’s also used in oil, ice cream,
animal feed and construction materials. Textile companies might not be able to spin cotton seed, so
those applications don’t necessarily impact mill owners. But they are critically important to the
economic health of cotton farmers, so expanding the number of applications cotton can be used in
will be a driving force for production in the future.

“The quality of cotton fiber is constantly changing and improving through technology,”
Messura continued. “Cotton isn’t a synthetic fiber, but it is an enginneered fiber, and it’s
constantly evolving.”

Meanwhile, environmental friendliness and sustainability — commonly thought of as crucial
factors for consumers when they make purchasing decisions — are fundamentally supply chain issues,
not market issues, he added.

“Cotton Incorporated research shows that very few consumers are willing to pay a premium for
clothing or home textiles that are enviornmentally friendly, organic, sustainable, recyclable or
compostable,” Messura said. “About 27% of consumers say they put effort into finding
environmentally friendly apparel, and that number is lower than it was five years ago. It’s not a
factor that’s becoming more important to consumers; it’s actually becoming less important to them
when they make purchasing decisions.”

He was careful to point out that the research doesn’t mean sustainability isn’t important …
only that it’s a more important issue for the supply chain than it is for consumers.”

People often ask: How can we strive to plant more cotton when the world needs more food?
Well, in the future, the world is going to need more of a lot of things! That’s why cotton has –
and will continue to – improve its production practices. The industry will innovate and find ways
for cotton to require less land, less water, less energy, and fewer chemicals to generate even more
fiber,” he said.



Posted on November 13, 2012

Source: ITMF

ZURICH, Switzerland — November 6, 2012 — The eyes of the textile universe were focused on Vietnam
as the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) held its traditional Annual Conference
from Nov. 4 – 6, 2012. In the highly anticipated Fiber Session on Nov. 4, attendees packed the
Grand Ballroom in Hanoi’s Melia Hotel to listen to presentations from some of the top minds in both
the cotton and man-made fiber industries.

The cotton-oriented portion of the Fiber Session focused on various aspects of
sustainability, from its growing role in retail marketing, to the focus and meaning of the Better
Cotton Initiative, to the mutiple challenges the industry faces in developing a sustainable supply
chain.

The first speaker, Robert Antoshak of Olah Inc., focused on the relationship between cotton
and the textile industry. Although they are technically at the end of the long cotton supply chain,
retailers are really where it all begins, Antoshak said — even in the case of sustainability,
which used to be regarded primarily as a concern for those who grow cotton, not those who sell it.

The ability to offer ‘green’ products is a critical success factor at the retail level these
days,” Antoshak said. “If retailers can label their products as being environmentally friendly,
they have an undeniable advantage among consumers in the marketplace.

People can debate all day long about what “being green” actually means, but in the end, it
doesn’t matter because perception is reality. “Buyers believe in ‘green,’ and it doesn’t really
matter whether they’re right or not,” he concluded. “It’s what they’re going to demand.”

The second speaker, Ecom Cotton Group’s Antonio Vidal Esteve, gave an impassioned
presentation about ways the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) can eventually raise the bar on
sustainability for the entire supply chain.

Esteve pointed out that it is still a common misconception that BCI is a non-governmental
organization (NGO), when it was actually created by forward-thinking retailers such as IKEA,
Levi’s, Adidas, and H&M. “These companies don’t actually need BCI today … but they see that
the day is coming when they will,” Esteve said. “Sustainable production is not a ‘cotton-only’
issue, but it is an issue the cotton industry will have to find a solution for, just as other
commodity supply chains have done. BCI is an industry-wide, umbrella solution.”

One of BCI’s biggest challenges has been the confusion about the use of the term “better.”
According to Andrew Macdonald, head of AMCON Consulting and moderator of the Fiber Session, “It’s
crucial that people realize ‘better’ doesn’t refer to quality; it refers to improved production
practices.”teve added, “The purpose of BCI is not to say that one type of cotton is intrinsically
superior to another type of cotton. The purpose is to enable and promote sustainable best practices
in all aspects of the cotton supply chain.

The final presentation in the cotton portion of the program was delivered by Bayer
CropScience’s Richard Shaw, who highlighted a number of challenges the industry faces in developing
a sustainable cotton supply chain. Among them are the lack of universally accepted protocols and
metrics; the absence of official standards for certification and documentation; and a lack of
consensus on third-party verification

Shaw pointed out that addressing those and the other challenges cotton faces in becoming more
sustainable won’t be easy — or cheap. “Due to the costs inherent in making major changes,
additional compensation will be required at various points in the supply chain,” he said. “That’s
something we simply have to accept, right from the start, if we want our industry to become more
sustainable.”

The second part of the Fiber Session focused on man-made fibers and began with with an
overview of the global demand for chemical fibers. PCI Fibres’ Peter Driscoll stated that while
part of man-made fibers’ gains in overall market share are due to the growing number of uses for
synthetics (above and beyond traditional textile applications), they are also the result of the
extreme volatility that the cotton industry has experienced in recent years.”

That price volatility appears to have reflected a panic about the supply [of cotton],” he
said. “A number of retail brands we’ve talked with said are making a concerted effort to move away
from cotton products because they can’t bear the thought of discontinuity of their supplies.”

He said it took six to nine months for the man-made fiber industry to pick up the demand
vacated when cotton prices spiked, but that lag is just part of the business. “Generally speaking,
demand from consumers tends to be quite smooth,” Driscoll said. “What isn’t smooth is the fiber
industry’s reaction to that demand. A retailer might see an increase in sales of green shirts,
decide that green is now ‘in,’ and order [a large number of green shirts] from the supplier. The
market then becomes saturated because the anticipated demand was distorted. But that’s the way this
business works, and it always will, so we simply have to live with it.”

Madhu Suthanan of Reliance Industries gave the final presentation of the day, focusing on the
sustainability advantages offered by polyester fiber — particularly those related to economics.”

Polyester is not only the most affordable of textile fibers, it has had the lowest levels of
volatility in recent years,” he said. “In addition, polyester supplies are easily scalable to
varying levels of demand, a problem that is much more challenging” for natural fiber

He concluded by pointing out that there is a 98% correlation between GDP and fiber demand,
and as the global economy continues on the road to recovery, polyester is expected to be the
biggest beneficiary, accounting for 65% of the growth in incremental demand in coming years.
Polyester filaments accounted for less than 10% of global fiber consumption in 1980, but that
number will approach 50% of the total fiber market by 2020, he predicted.

Source: ITMF

Germany-based Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH now offers an ergonomic distance adjusting
system for its RD 6/1-12 and RD 7/2-12 warp-knitting spacer fabric machines. The system is included
with the RD 7/2-12 EL, and may be added as an optional feature on the RD 7/2-12 or RD 6/1-12
machines.

The system allows the machine operator to adjust the distance between the knock-over comb
bars to change the thickness of the warp-knitted fabric as quickly and simply as possible,
according to the company. At the same time, the system will automatically adjust the stitch comb to
the required position based on the new fabric thickness. In addition, the handling system is
designed so that using only a lever — no tools — the stitch comb can easily be swiveled out,
granting access to the knitting elements in the event of a yarn break or similar machine error.

The only machine adjustment that must be done manually is moving the knock-over comb bar
distance to match the height of the needle bar.

The RD series of machines features a 138-inch-wide working width; gauges of E 18, E 22 and E
24; and a maximum width between the knock-over comb bars of 12 millimeters.

November 13, 2012

Everybody remembers only too well when the global financial system collapsed in 2008. The textile
industry, and especially the textile machinery industry, was severely hit by these problems. Most
of the machinery suppliers had deep troubles. So it was for the Italian/Swiss weaving machinery
manufacturer Itema Weaving, holder of the famous brand names Sultex, Vamatex and Somet. These
troubles, together with various questionable management decisions, led to some irritation about
Itema in the global weaving industry.

Homework Done

Since ITMA 2011 in Barcelona, Spain, itema — which is now written with an “i” — enjoyed some
recovery in the markets. Under the motto “Because we believe,” Italy-based itema Group, along with
its subsidiaries in Switzerland, China, the United States, Japan and India, organized a series of
customer days as well as a press conference, to present its new R9500 rapier weaving machine.

Some months ago, itema introduced its A9500 air-jet weaving machine. For this machine, the
new CEO, Carlo Rogora, mentioned: “I am convinced that the air-jet technology will enhance its
importance in the near future. Today, this technology is mature,” he said. “The A9500 is the sum of
Sulzer, Vamatex and Somet. Those companies are now in the past and we are itema today.”
(See ”
The
Rupp Report: ITMA Asia + CITME 2012: The Important Weaving Machinery Sector,
TextileWorld.com, July 10, 2012.)

One Name, One Brand

Rogora started his presentations at the press meeting by saying: “Today, itema is one brand
and one name. In the past two years, we did our homework. All the labels are now under one
umbrella: ‘itema.’ After the crisis, we’ve restructured the company and reduced costs
significantly.” The workforce in Italy and Switzerland was reduced from 1,200 people in 2009 down
to 825 this year. R&D is in the center of attention for itema: “Without innovation, there is no
future,” Rogora said. And he mentioned that itema today is absolutely free of debt, a quite
remarkable fact for a textile machinery company. “The success of our customers is our own success,”
he added. He also mentioned that the developing countries require best quality products too. China,
India and Turkey are the biggest markets for itema at the moment. “However,” he said, “we are
convinced that there is a future in some countries in Africa.”

The New Machine

The event was also the signal to introduce the R9500 rapier weaving machine. Responding to
the ITMA Barcelona debut and immediate market success of the air-jet A9500 weaving machine, the
concept of the R9500 was born. The company is utilizing the advantages of a Common Base Platform
(CBP) along with integrating the successful elements of its rapier machines. It is based on the
same footprint and mechanical concept as the A9500, along with the efficient use of comparable
parts and solutions. “And,” Rogora said, “the R9500 is a solid, robust machine, capable of weaving
the heaviest fabrics but flexible and precise enough to weave fine, fancy and technical yarns.”

The SK Transfer System is designed to provide high speed and versatility, while the newly
developed Free Positive Approach (FPA) weft transfer offers a race board without guiding elements
for use with man-made or delicate yarns. The New Common Electronic Platform features a simple but
comprehensive design and allows easy control of all technical parameters. All key components — more
than 75 percent of all the components – are said to be Italian-made. More than 90 percent of all
parts – including motors, electric devices and interface — are used on both the rapier and the
air-jet machine, reducing costs for customers having both technologies.

The R9500 utilizes a completely redesigned version of itema’s propeller drive system. The
Turbo Prop drive is compact and has minimal moving parts, “ensuring high reliability and reduced
maintenance.” With reliable, economical, consistent performance, the new drive embodies the true
essence of the R9500, said the itema engineers, providing low power consumption and a minimal noise
profile.

Different Markets

The versatile R9500 should enable the weavers to penetrate new markets. Different options and
features can be selected, providing flexibility and a broad application range. “May I emphasize the
fact that we are still the only supplier to provide all weft insertion systems — air-jet, rapier
and projectile technology,” Rogora mentioned with some obvious pride.

He is looking quite positively into the future: “The A9500 is a success. After its
introduction in Barcelona, the weaving machine is producing already in 15 different countries.
Funny enough,” he said, “Chinese customers are either buying rapier or air-jet, but never both. On
the other hand, Indian customers have no hesitation to buy both technologies to have the highest
flexibility.”

The R9500 is already having some success after an industrial trial period of some months.
Sales started in Brazil, Japan, India, Taiwan and Turkey, as well as Italy and Switzerland.
However, first priority for itema is still China, followed by India. Rogora is convinced that India
is now ready to begin new weaving projects. Meanwhile, China has become an air-jet market, too.

The Vision

Today, quality is not a bonus, but a prerequisite for success. According to Rogora, the
company is committed to QRP — quality, reliability and top performance of its products. The itema
vision, he said, is quite clear: “We want to produce and deliver products of superior quality with
the best performance ever. We want to provide services that ensure added value to our customer’s
bottom line, and we want to gain a leading role in the supply of weaving machines. Every single QRP
certified machine will be guaranteed for two years.”

All in all, the event was presented in a new spirit, which was tangible in the company’s new
showroom after the press gathering — smiling itema people with a lot of hopes and expectations in
their faces. And last, but not least, many customers were already waiting outside the premises to
come and see the new machine. It seems: mission accomplished for itema. Time will tell.

November 13, 2012

Lawrence, Mass.-based Polartec LLC — manufacturer of Polartec® performance fabrics for consumer and
military apparel — has introduced a man-made fiber insulation for puffy-style apparel that provides
improved breathability and moisture-vapor transport.

According to the company, Polartec Alpha® is a highly stable layer that enables the use of
more open and breathable fabrics, as opposed to down and existing man-made insulation batting, on
the outer and inner layers of puffy-style apparel that require high-density woven layers, which
form a vapor barrier but can trap moisture inside a garment. Polartec Alpha continues to insulate
when wet, and dries faster than traditional puffy-style fabrics. In addition, the insulation is
inherently wind-resistant; provides warmth; and is lightweight, durable and highly compressible,
Polartec reports.

Polartec developed the insulation for the U.S. Special Operations Forces (SOF) and reports
it received the highest ratings of any product tested by SOF’s evaluation team. Polartec Alpha
jackets will be supplied to every Special Forces Operator, and the insulation will be offered to
retail consumers by September 2013.

“Polartec Alpha is a natural compliment to our existing layering system fabrics,” said Allon
Cohne, director of marketing, Polartec. “It will function as outerwear or as an ideal mid layer
under fabrics like Polartec Power Shield® Pro or Polartec NeoShell®. It packs small and can quickly
recover from something as catastrophic as getting completely soaked while in the field.”

November 13, 2012