TRION, Ga. — September 29, 2015 — Mount Vernon FR has collaborated with Cat® Apparel and Westmoor Manufacturing’s Rock & Roll Cowboy to bring more flame resistant clothing (FRC) choices to the industry. Cat Apparel is producing an FR work shirt and coverall, and Rock & Roll Cowboy will offer jeans, giving consumers FR options with the same great fit and styling they’ve come to expect from these brands.
Cat Apparel developed its FR line to protect workers without compromising comfort or function. The Cat FR Work Shirt with DuPont™ Nomex® MHP mesh gussets is made using Mount Vernon FR’s AMTEX TC PLUS Sateen fabric. It’s a 6.5 ounce fabric blend of cotton, Tencel® and nylon twill, and provides a great “true” fit with FR mesh gussets under the arms for better stretch and comfort. The Cat FR Twill Coverall with DuPont Nomex MHP mesh gussets is made with Mount Vernon FR’s AMTEX PLUS Sauk Sateen 6.5 ounce, 88 percent cotton/12 percent nylon twill blend. The coverall provides functional features, durability and protection, and has been fit-tested for ease of movement, comfort and coolness. Both the shirt and coverall are available at retail and each is UL – NFPA2112 certified and provide dual hazard protection that meet NFPA 70E CAT 2, ASTM 1506 and OSHA 29 CFR1910.269.
“Partnering with Mount Vernon FR made perfect sense when considering the values of our company,” said Andrius Viskantas, Vice President of North America Sales and Marketing for Cat Apparel. “We both believe in safety and comfort as a first priority, but without having to sacrifice function, performance and durability.”
Known for its fashion-forward, premium denim, Rock & Roll Cowboy will offer two jean styles with FR protection. The Pistol style is made with Mount Vernon FR’s Phoenix FR fabric featuring an 11.75 ounce cotton twill and the Double Barrel style is made using Mount Vernon FR’s Phoenix fabric with a 12 ounce 3×1 right hand twill Amsler ring spun warp denim. Both styles will be available in custom washes for medium and dark denim shades, and both fabrics meet NFPA 2112, NFPA 70E, HRC2, ASTM 1506 and OSHA 29 CFR1910.269. The jeans will launch at retail on December 15, 2015, just in time for the holidays.
“Mount Vernon FR fabric allows us to provide the Rock & Roll Cowboy customer the same premium fit, styling and quality they depend on, but now with added FR protection,” said Jamison Hochster, vice president of sales and marketing for Westmoor Manufacturing.
ZURICH, Switzerland — September 24, 2015 — Since June, Loftex China Ltd. has been able to mark its towel products with the Made in Green by OEKO-TEX® label, making it the first textile company in the B2C area to do so. This means that these selected products have successfully passed a test for harmful substances in accordance with the OEKO-TEX Standard 100 and that the company, certified with STeP by OEKO-TEX, has demonstrated that these textiles are produced in an environmentally friendly and socially responsible manner. Since 2002 to 2015 many high-quality towels have been certified in accordance with the OEKO-TEX Standard 100. In 2014, Loftex China Ltd was one of the first companies in China to have its production facilities certified in accordance with STeP by OEKO-TEX.
Loftex China is a vertical and professional towel manufacturer and vendor, combining all processing methods (from weaving, bleaching, printing, dying, and finishing right up to final manufacture) at 5 productions sites in China with 2,700 employees. Since its foundation in 1980, the company has developed into one of the largest suppliers of towel products in the world. Loftex exports their products with a broad range of different qualities to over 30 countries, including the United States, Japan, Australia, Canada, and several European countries. Walmart, Target, Macy’s, J.C. Penney, Kohl’s, Disney, Marks & Spencer, H&M, Asda, and Aldi are some of its top customers.
To offer their consumers an excellent product experience, Loftex relies on creative design and innovative manufacturing technologies. High quality, down to the smallest detail, is just as important as a strong sense of responsibility toward employees and the environment. Loftex President Wang Yanping summarizes the company philosophy as such: “Our goal is to manufacture green textiles and to achieve sustainable development”.
In addition to the certification through its OEKO-TEX partnership, the company has also obtained certifications in accordance with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OHSAS 18001, and BSCI, which were established from 1999 onwards. These prove that the company has successfully implemented steps on the way to more sustainability. For example, the wholly owned water reservoirs and an efficient water treatment plant guarantee rational management of water, a resource that is intensively used in the manufacturing process. In addition, energy efficiency was increased by 23 percent in recent years due to the use of the company’s own power station, among other measures. Furthermore, considerable investments have been made to modernise plants and buildings and to optimise production processes. The latest weaving machines and pressure dryers ensure that the work protects the environment and the materials. The fact that production waste is recycled also helps to raise efficiency. Finally, the management places great importance on regularly training employees to increase their environmental awareness.
WASHINGTON — September 25, 2015 — The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) calls on the Obama Administration to utilize today’s visit with Chinese President Xi Jinping to highlight the urgent need for substantial economic and trade policy reforms by China in order to help level the playing field for U.S. textile producers and other U.S. manufacturers.
From 1997-2008 the U.S. textile and apparel industry took a major hit at the hands of China’s economic policies, and hemorrhaged over a million jobs. Despite China’s continued unfair practices, since 2009 the industry has had steady growth in the key economic indicators of output, exports, and investment, and is now the third largest exporter of textiles and apparel in the world. Noting these facts, NCTO President Augustine Tantillo said “U.S. textile producers are world class competitors but we have no desire to compete with foreign governments. President Obama has a historic opportunity to work with the Chinese President on these important economic reforms to create a level playing field for U.S. textile manufacturers so that we are able to continue to maintain growth and be a substantial contributor to the U.S. economy. NCTO strongly urges the President to capitalize on this important state visit.”
Tantillo urged President Obama to press President Xi on issues that directly affect the U.S. textile industry. “The domestic textile industry has long fought for changes to China’s predatory trading practices including currency manipulation, illegal subsidizes, and intellectual property infringement. On behalf of the U.S. textile industry, I implore President Obama to address these critical issues with President Xi and urge immediate policy reform.” Tantillo went on to cite the recently filed World Trade Organization (WTO) case by the United States which challenges China’s export subsidy program as an illegal policy and specifically names textiles as a key benefactor of this program.
GREENSBORO, N.C. — Sept. 28, 2015 — Wrangler® announced today the launch of the Wrangler Flame Resistant (FR) Advanced Comfort jean, the newest extension of the brand’s performance apparel featuring four-way flex technology that allows the jean to move with the wearer for maximum comfort.
Known for offering comfortable everyday apparel designed to meet the demands of men who work long, hard hours in tough conditions, Wrangler partnered with Westex by Milliken to engineer the Wrangler FR Advanced Comfort jean. As a global leader in specialty textiles and protective fabrics, Milliken provided the latest advancements in FR fabric development with Westex® Indigo a new line of denim. The fabric, which is made of a unique blend of fibers designed to increase mobility, durability, and comfort, allows workers to be productive while exceeding flame resistant requirements from leading protection agencies including the National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA), the American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) and the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA).
“At Wrangler, we’re dedicated to working with our core consumers to better understand what they need from their apparel while they’re on the job,” said Gerald Guiliano, director of merchandising at Wrangler. “By combining Westex by Milliken’s deep knowledge of FR protection and our unique comfort technology, with a jean that’s long-loved for style and fit, we’re solving the need for jeans that don’t get in the way of a job well done.”
“For Westex by Milliken, the new Wrangler FR Advanced Comfort denim collaboration is another example of creating innovation that helps solve concerns about fit and freedom of movement for workers worldwide,” said Mike Enright, vice president of Westex by Milliken. “This jean has demonstrated a significant increase in flexibility and stretch over the current FR denim in the market.”
The Wrangler FR Advanced Comfort jean features room2move® technology in a regular and relaxed fit with gusseted construction that allows for a greater range of motion in all directions, reinforced back pockets for increased durability and extra deep front pockets for added functionality. The Wrangler FR Advanced Comfort jean will be available on Wrangler.com and in specialty retailers March 2016.
MOUNT HOLLY, N.C. — September 23, 2015 — American & Efird (A&E) announced today it has achieved 100% zero waste to landfill in each of its United States manufacturing facilities as well as its two corporate office buildings. This significant environmental achievement is just the latest sustainability milestone, supporting A&E’s global Eco*Driven® initiative.
“We are very proud of our U.S. manufacturing operations. This achievement is the result of the hard work, commitment and dedication of our company leadership and our employees,” A&E CEO Fred Jackson said. “We are committed to the principle that practicing sustainability and corporate social responsibility is the right thing to do.”
A&E has followed Eco*Driven principles since their inception of the program in 1990.
“We started our environmental journey with a well-designed and organized company initiative of sustainability,” said John Eapen, Vice President of Environmental, Health and Safety/Sustainability. “Reaching 100% zero waste to landfill is a great milestone and is just one example of the many things we are doing as a company in our long-standing commitment to protecting our environment, from water conservation efforts, to state-of-the-art wastewater treatment facilities, to reducing our overall global carbon footprint.
Eapen continued, “Existing landfills are full and will continue costing companies more and more. By eliminating our landfill waste, we are not only being socially responsible, but fiscally responsible as well.”
A&E continues to abide by its pledge to create a better world through responsible corporate actions, environmentally protective efforts and numerous contributions to the communities in which it operates. It’s Eco*Driven® sustainability principles continue to be lauded by many brands and retailers around the globe, frequently using A&E as an example of how industries should view and implement environmental standards in their own business practices.
TWINSBURG, Ohio — September 24, 2015 — Pepperl+Fuchs announced that online ordering is now available for 2,000+ commonly stocked items including: sensors, intrinsic safety barriers, and select accessories for purge and pressurization systems. Customers are able to order directly from the manufacturer with only a few clicks. Items ship quickly, and for a limited time the company is offering free UPS Ground shipping for online orders.
Pepperl+Fuchs accepts all major credit cards and PayPal for online purchases. Orders can be placed 24/7 at www.pepperl-fuchs.us. To place an order, customers simply click on “Products”, choose the sensing technology, sensor type and specific model then “Add to Cart.”
CARMEL, Ind. — September 23, 2015 — Top Value Fabrics introduces eight new textiles that provide an advanced platform for printing brilliant banners, flags, exhibit graphics, backdrops and retail displays.
“The growth in the textile market has our customers requesting fabrics that are versatile to meet the various demands of their customers, and at an increasingly competitive pricepoint while maintaining our quality standards,” explains Jeff Nonte, Print Media Program Manager for Top Value Fabrics. Nonte adds, “We’re proud to deliver an expanded set of options with the introduction of these eight new fabrics.”
Available in widths to 126”, the fabrics are designed to provide outstanding color consistency, excellent image sharpness and a wide color range.
The newly launched textiles meet NFPA 701 FR specifications and provide options in ink compatibility including Dye Sub Direct, Dye Sub Transfer, Latex, UV, Eco-Solvent and Solvent. Top Value Fabrics’ new textiles are Samba Fabric Elite, part of our Premium Print Textiles line, and the following seven media selections that are new to our Direct Print Textiles line:
OLDHAM, United Kingdom — September 24, 2015 — Green energy consultancy Think Renewable Energy has completed a 200kW biomass project at one of West Yorkshire’s oldest textile mills.
Pingle Mill near Huddersfield has been manufacturing cloth and yarn since the 1700s. The factory has been extended and improved by woollen yarn maker R Gledhill Ltd which first started manufacturing at the mill in 1936.
The new biomass system is expected to generate 528,380kWh a year, cutting overheads and allowing for further investment in innovation and product development.
A spokesman for R Gledhill said increased capacity in recent years had broadened the company’s range of manufactured products, opening up new markets with major UK retailers.
“Switching to biomass will ensure we remain competitive and will help us to adhere to the environmental standards that our customers demand from their supply chain,” he said.
The project included the design of a new plant room and fuel store in keeping with the historic mill premises.
Chris Paddey, managing director of Think Renewable Energy, said the textile industry was a key growth area for commercial renewable energy, with mill premises often presenting a strong business case for biomass.
“Given the scale of production at Pingle Mill, the age of the buildings and its off grid location, Pingle Mill saw the project as a way of reducing its energy bills, which are significant,” he explained.
“The new biomass system will provide energy for heating and processing across two mill buildings and an office block, cutting costs and helping the business achieve its carbon reduction targets.”
There have been many developments in the dyeing, printing and finishing arena, and many of those developments are highlighted in published studies.
Much of the published research centers on three areas: natural dyes as alternatives to man-made dyes; environmental issues, including wastewater color removal and source reduction; and dye application studies, such as waterless dyeing, new dyeing auxiliaries and digital printing. A majority of such developments are published in journals such as the AATCC Review, Coloration Technology, Colourage, Fibers and Polymers, Textile Research Journal, The Journal of the Textile Institute, and the recently launched AATCC Journal of Research. These journals cover results from fundamental and applied research, as well as brief perspectives on topics of general interest to the readers.
Natural Dyes
Research on natural dyes is inspired by the belief that such dyes are environmentally friendly alternatives to man-made dyes because they are biodegradable, renewable, and perceived as non-toxic, especially since some can be used in food, drug and cosmetic products where they are subject to stringent safety and toxicological standards. The majority of these dyes are obtained from plant rather than animal sources (See Figure 1).
Weld (a)indigo (b)madder (c)Figure 1: Plants from which weld (a), indigo (b) and madder (c) can be harvested, along with their associated molecular structures.
Today, the application of natural dyes to textiles involves cotton as the principal substrate, although silk is a frequent target. This process involves four key steps: plant extraction; mordanting; rinsing; and dyeing. The second step is especially important because nature did not develop its colors with textiles in mind. Consequently, they have no inherent substantivity for textile fibers and must be bonded through the use of an intermediary as illustrated in Figure 2.
Figure 2: Illustration of a natural dye bonded to cotton cellulose using a mordant (Met; a metal ion such as Al3+, Fe2+)
Recent developments in this area include ink-jet printing on cotton using natural dyes such as annatto, cutch, and golden dock (See Figure 3). Assessment of fastness properties indicated washfastness and crockfastness levels typical of Class A direct dyes and low lightfastness1. Annatto also has been used to dye jute fabric, using bio-mordants such as myrobolan and pomegranate, in addition to traditional mordants including alum and FeSO4. Best washfastness was obtained using alum, with post-mordanting with the inorganic mordants affording the best combination of color yield and fastness properties2. Similarly, research involving the use of a bentonite-type clay mordant ([Na0.4Ca0.03K0.01] [Al1.6Mg0.3Fe0.1]Si4O10(OH)2) in place of a traditional mordant has been reported for applying Alizarin to wool3. Pre and post-treatments at 3- to 10-percent levels were conducted, with pretreatment giving slightly better washfastness and post-treatments giving slightly better lightfastness.
Figure 3: Molecular structure of natural dyes evaluated for ink-jet printing on cotton.
Dye Application Studies
In view of broad interest in approaches to minimizing salt and color levels in dye wastewater following cotton dyeing, especially with reactive dyes, cationization of cotton cellulose has been undertaken. The results of these efforts were summarized in a recent review4. The heart of this work is summarized in Figure 4, where reactive intermediate (3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl) trimethyl ammonium chloride (CHPTAC), which is used to produce cationic groups in cotton that are attracted to anionic dyes in the absence of salt. Use of reactive dyes leads to significant reductions in wastewater color and higher dye-fiber fixation. Commercial consideration of this technology is underway. Further, the presence of cationic groups on cotton opens the door to using acid dyes affording brighter shades. In related studies, polymeric and chlorotriazine-based reactive species (see examples in Figure 5) have been developed to produce cationic cotton.
Figure 4: Formation of cationic cotton and attraction to anionic dyes in the absence of salt.Figure 5: Examples of other compounds used for cationization of cotton.
The use of super-critical carbon dioxide (SC-CO2) as a medium for waterless dyeing of polyester is receiving renewed attention, owing to the design and commercialization of new machinery. Developments in this area were reported at the 2013 AATCC Conference on Dyeing Technology5. Present-day developments have opened up a sustainable way of polyester (PET) dyeing that will soon be followed by dyeing of natural fibers such as wool and cotton on a commercial scale. In other SC-CO2 studies6, a lab-scale machine was built and used to develop a method for fabric rope dyeing with Disperse Red 74 (See Figure 6). In comparison with conventional dyeing processes, running costs were lowered by employing this dyeing process in a rope dyeing machine. Also, CO2 recycling efficiency ranging from 92-95 percent was reported.
Figure 6: Molecular structure of azo dye used in SC-CO2 rope dyeing of PET.
In other dye application research, an approach to dyeing man-made fibers using disperse dyes having a built-in dispersing agent was reported. In this work, Disperse Red 60 containing a poly(ethylene oxide)–poly(propylene oxide) appendage (see Figure 7) was synthesized and demonstrated to give dyeing behavior and fastness properties comparable to a physical mixture of disperse dye and dispersing agent7.
Figure 7: Structures of Disperse Red 60 before (left) and after modification (right).
Digital Printing
Transferring a design from the creative mind of a designer to a substrate without the need for screens or pressure now is possible using digital printing technologies8. Its use on signage, flags, technical textiles, home furnishings, and basic apparel is well known. Digital printing inks contain acid, disperse, or reactive dyes; or pigments. The technology can be used for proofing, samples, and short runs more cost effectively than conventional methods. Digital printing processes offer a range of color processes including 3 color (CYM), 4 color (CYMK), 5, 6, 7 and 8 extended gamut color options, matching the growing market demand for full color. This technology is believed by many to be the way forward for textile printing because it affords possibilities not available with conventional methods, including unlimited colors, tonal graphics, unlimited repeat sizes, fast and frequent design changes, fine line patterns with great precision, economical shorts runs, mass customization, high definition, and photographic quality. Figure 8 shows examples of some interesting digital prints. The development of print heads that permit printing with both pigment and dye-based inks and that allow speeds approaching rotary screen technology, makes reshoring textile printing possible.
Figure 8: Examples of digitally printed textiles.
Environmental And Regulatory Issues
Bearing in mind the strong influence of environmental regulations on dye manufacturing and application practices, it seemed appropriate to end the article by discussing regulatory matters impacting color chemistry operations. Much of the activity in this area can be traced back to the discovery of bladder tumors in various plant workers who were exposed to aromatic amines such as benzidine and beta-naphthylamine during azo dye manufacturing. This recognition led to termination of the use of such precursors in much of the western world. Once it was later shown that azo dyes such as Direct Black 38 can undergo metabolism in mammalian systems to produce the benzidine precursor used in its manufacture (see Figure 9), regulations such as EU Directive 2002/ 61/EC were instituted9. This was an important development because it prevented the sale of products containing dyes that were manufactured from any of a group of 20 (now 22)10 aromatic amines. The metabolism of these aromatic amines following their release from azo dyes is of concern, because of their potential to produce nitrenium ions that can react with DNA to produce mutations — an initial step in malignant tumor formation.
Figure 9: Illustration of the metabolic pathway associated with a benzidine-based azo dye.
This knowledge contributed to other international studies, regulations and policies such as the Canadian Environmental Protection Act, 1999 (CEPA 1999), International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) Monograph99, and Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH). CEPA covers chemical substances made or imported into Canada, and gives attention to azo acid, basic, direct, disperse, metal complex, and reactive dyes11. IARC Monographs cover evaluation of carcinogenic risks to humans12. REACH covers chemical substances made or imported into the European Union, with emphasis on the use of the 151 chemical substances of very high concern, and is due to be fully implemented in 2015.
A key outcome of the 2010 IARC report was the designation of dyes metabolized to benzidine as themselves belonging to classification Group 1 — carcinogenic to humans. This was an important development because it equated benzidine-based dyes with benzidine itself.
A key component of the 2015 CEPA report pertained to a screening assessment on 61 azo direct dyes and eight azo reactive dyes. These 69 substances constituted two subgroups of the aromatic azo and benzidine-based substance grouping assessed as part of the Substance Groupings Initiative of the Government of Canada’s Chemicals Management Plan based on structural similarity and applications. Dyes in this grouping were identified as priorities for assessment because they met categorization criteria under subsection 73(1) of CEPA 1999 and/or were considered as a priority based on other human health concerns. Only seven dyes — six azo direct dyes and one azo reactive dye — were reported imported in quantities above the 100 kilogram per year survey reporting threshold. Ultimately, it was concluded that the 69 dyes did not meet any of the criteria set out in section 64 of CEPA 1999.
REACH legislation is the most recent and extensive of its type13. This E.U. regulation is designed to improve the protection of human health and the environment from the risks that can be posed by chemical substances including dyes, while simultaneously enhancing the competitiveness of the E.U. chemicals industry. It also is designed to promote alternative methods for the hazard assessment of substances, in order to reduce the number of tests on animals. Companies are responsible for collecting information on the properties and the uses of substances they manufacture or import at or above 1 ton per year. They also have to make an assessment of the hazards and potential risks presented by each substance. This information is communicated to the European Chemicals Agency through a registration dossier containing the hazard information and, where relevant, an assessment of the risks that the use of the substance may pose and how these risks should be controlled. Thus, a type of Chemical Management Plan is associated with each registered substance.
The Road Ahead
It is clear that the use of both natural and man-made dyes for textile coloration is here to stay because each serves a unique purpose. Equally clear is that the former will not displace the latter to any significant degree, owing to the superior fastness, ease of production and application, ready availability, and product consistency of man-made dyes. Similarly, digital printing and CO2 dyeing have great potential as key coloration methods for the decade ahead, because of the print speeds and amazing image reproducibility now associated with digital printing and the strong interest in waterless dyeing associated with CO2 dyeing. If indeed natural fibers can be effectively dyed using SC-CO2 media, this would be a remarkable development.
Environmental regulations surrounding colorants and coloration are here to stay. They can appear to be a pain point for doing business, but with a bit of ingenuity, they also can provide an opportunity for new business.
References:
Coloration Technology, 130 (3), 2014, 200-04.
AATCC Journal of Research, 1(3), 2014, 20-26.
Coloration Technology, 130 (1), 2014, 54-61.
AATCC Journal of Research, 1(3), 2014, 11-19.
Proceedings of the AATCC International Conference & Exhibition, pp. 109-116.
Coloration Technology, 130 (2), 2014, 102-111
Coloration Technology, 129 (5), 2013, 377-384.
Colourage, LXI (7), 2014, 30-32.
Anon, “ETAD Information Notice No. 6”, Textile Chemist and Colorists, Vol. 28, 1996, pp11-13.
IARC Monographs on the Evaluation of Carcinogenic Risks to Humans, Vol. 99 (2010), Some Aromatic Amines, Organic Dyes, and Related Exposures.
http://echa.europa.eu/regulations/reach
Editor’s Note: Dr. Harold S. Freeman is the associate dean for research and Ciba-Geigy professor of Dyestuff Chemistry at North Carolina State University’s College of Textiles, Department of Textile Engineering, Chemistry and Science, Raleigh, N.C. This article is based on Freeman’s presentation given at the 2014 TW Innovation Forum.
Bangladesh-based apparel manufacturer Aman Graphics and Designs recently implemented the intelloCut material planning solution developed by ThreadSol Softwares Pvt. Ltd., India.
The companies report Aman has realized 10-percent fabric savings since taking the software live.
“After implementation of intelloCut, we experienced profound improvement in stores and cutting systems, processes and efficiency,” said Ronnie Serasingha, CEO, Aman Graphics. “The system has put our processes on auto pilot.
At the same time, the live data in the form of reports has helped management gain transparency. The intelloCut team is the most efficient and best support team during and after implementation. I am sure we will get benefit of what we have invested in intelloCut in a short lead time.”
ThreadSol consultants setting up the intelloCut solution at Aman Graphics.
