Autocoro 9: A Motor Powering The Indian Denim Boom

ÜBACH-PALENBERG, Germany — November 23, 2016 — The Indian denim market is booming. In the last five years, turnover has risen by 15 percent to a volume of $4.5 billion. Experts anticipate that the $8 billion mark will be reached by 2023.1 The development of denim yarn production in India has been correspondingly dynamic, with the Autocoro 9 being one of the motors behind this growth.

With a market share of more than 90 percent, the Autocoro plays a major role in the growth and value added in the Indian textile industry. Developed by Schlafhorst, this innovation has revolutionized rotor spinning mills in India and set entirely new standards in productivity and efficiency thanks to the individual spinning position drive.

Sudarshan, the largest Autocoro 8 spinning mill in India, features the latest Autocoro technology

Sudarshan Jeans Pvt Ltd. is one of the biggest denim manufacturers in India and is also the largest India- based customer for the Autocoro 8 and Autocoro 9 made by the German textile machinery manufacturer Schlafhorst. No Indian company operates more Autocoro rotor spinning machines from the latest Autocoro generation than the market leader from Kolhapur in the Indian state of Maharashtra. Sudarshan has already enjoyed many years of highly successful production with the Autocoro 8. The outstanding extra advantages provided by the new Autocoro 9, which was exhibited at ITMA 2015 in Milan, immediately convinced Sudarshan to invest in this model.

13 Autocoro 8 and 9 machines with a total of 6,528 spinning positions are now in operation at two plants around the clock, producing cotton yarns with counts between Ne 4.5 and Ne 20 that are predominantly intended for downstream processing within the company. The annual production of Sudarshan Jeans has risen to more than 70 million metres of denim and terry cloth, of which 80 percent is exported around the world by the company.

‘Value for money’: strategy for success

The family company, which was founded in 2003 and has a rich tradition, pursues a philosophy of value for money. With unrivaled dedication and excellence on all levels of the textile value creation chain, Sudarshan Jeans offers its customers the best possible value for their money.

What does this global player find so fascinating about the new Autocoro?

“Our market is characterized by intense competition,” said Sudarshan Bansal, chairman and managing director of the company. “The new Autocoro 9 ensures that we are even better placed to implement our company philosophy of ‘value for money’ while also attaining maximum productivity and efficiency in operation.”

A decisive reason why the new Autocoro has the edge when it comes to productivity is its individual spinning position drive, which breaks through the system-related limits associated with conventional drives. Whether in terms of productivity, efficiency, flexibility or energy consumption, the new Autocoro once again sets records and therefore establishes a new benchmark in open-end rotor spinning technology. These advantages have also revolutionized the production of denim yarns at Sudarshan Jeans.

More efficient than ever

“With its innovative individual spinning position drive and superlative efficiency, the new Autocoro technology has raised our productivity to new record highs,” noted Director Gautam Bansal. “Operating with minimum infrastructure and the lowest levels of energy consumption, we are now more productive than ever.”

The individual spinning position drive enables higher rotor speeds while consuming less energy per kilogram of yarn than conventional rotor spinning technology featuring belt drives. “At these rotor speeds, we are therefore able to make full use of the raw material within the limits of textile technology in order to increase productivity. The new Autocoro always guarantees top quality and maximum energy efficiency,” said General Manager Shankar Khot.

The first Autocoro 9 in India went to T.C. Spinners

The Indian textile industry has already made consistent use of the innovative Autocoro 8 technology over recent years in order to achieve above-average growth and profitable margins. It is therefore no surprise that one of the first Autocoro 9 machines was supplied to an Indian company. The Indian quality spinning mill T.C. Spinners, based in Chandigarh in the district of Mohali, ordered the Autocoro 9 — the latest Autocoro generation — at ITMA 2015 in Milan.

T.C. Spinners was founded in 2006 and primarily produces weaving and knitting yarns that are made from 100-percent cotton and feature counts from Ne 10 to Ne 40, as well as polyester yarns. The family-run company employs a total of 350 staff and boasts a total production capacity of around 50,000 spinning positions.

Autocoro 9 put through its paces

The new flagship of the German textile machinery manufacturer Schlafhorst entered operation in 2016. The Autocoro 9, which delivers a further significant boost to production with its 720 spinning positions, has been well and truly put through its paces by T.C. Spinners in the course of everyday operations since then — and it has been an uninterrupted success.

The Autocoro 9 sets new records in energy consumption, productivity, efficiency, ease of operation and quality. The energy consumption is up to 25-percent lower, with spinning costs falling by as much as 19 percent. This makes it even more efficient to perform high-speed production at the technological spinning limit of the material. It even helps reduce personnel requirements, thanks to a 60-percent reduction in maintenance input. All of this opens up new opportunities in the fiercely competitive market for denim yarns.

Constant efficiency of over 95 percent even for medium-fine yarns

T.C. Spinners is particularly impressed by the efficiency of the new Autocoro 9. “With the super-long Autocoro 9, we are continuously able to achieve over 95 percent efficiency — even for medium-fine yarns,” said Managing Director Dhuruv Satia. “This has exceeded all our expectations.”

This sensational result is made possible by the individual spinning position technology: unlike with central drives, this can be used to perfectly tailor the automation to the machine length. T.C. Spinners, which operates an especially long Autocoro 9 with 720 spinning positions, knows how to make particularly efficient use of these advantages.

“T.C. Spinners produces a wide range of top-quality yarns. As a result, we also value the high flexibility offered by the individual spinning position drive, which enables economical production even in the context of frequent lot changes. The new Autocoro 9 now offers us even greater utilisation of space, higher productivity and higher energy efficiency,” stated Dhuruv Satia.

Ready for the future with the Autocoro 9

This advantage in terms of efficiency ensures that T.C. Spinners is ideally prepared for the future. No-one knows whether the growth forecasts made by the experts will prove to be accurate, nor can anyone say how much the competition will intensify. However, as T.C. Spinners is equipped with the latest Autocoro generation in the form of the groundbreaking Autocoro 9, it will be able to respond to all market requirements with confidence and successfully capitalise on all market opportunities.

Posted November 23, 201t

Source: Saurer Schlafhorst

Electric Balaclava To Avert Chest Infections In Cold Weather

NOTTINGHAM, England — November 22, 2016 — Researchers have developed a smart balaclava which warms oxygen before it’s inhaled to reduce the risk of athletes contracting chest infections in winter.

Nottingham Trent University and Germany-based knitting machine manufacturer Stoll GmBH created a prototype to help runners and skiers who can be exposed to increased risk of infections when exercising in the cold.

The technology centers on a knitted patch of electric-conductive yarn over the nose and mouth which emits heat when charged with an electric current.

It is connected to a knitted power socket at the back of the balaclava which contains a plus and minus pole to connect a rechargeable cell battery.

Electricity cannot be felt by the wearer as the current is so low. But when the battery is inserted, the power comes on and the area around the nose and mouth warms up.

Professor Tilak Dias, leader of the Advanced Textiles Research Group at Nottingham Trent University’s School of Art & Design, said: “This balaclava is the tip of the iceberg of what can be achieved through collaborative research into smart textiles.

“By using electric-conductive yarns which are so tiny that they cannot be felt by human skin, we’re able to provide a consistent level of warmth to a piece of clothing so that a runner only breathes in warm air.

“It’s good example of how smart textiles can be used to improve people’s lives. With the application of heated textiles, we can help reduce the risk of athletes contracting illnesses related to cold weather.”

The mask is fully washable and behaves like any other fabric. It features 3-D-knitted pre-shape qualities for a more comfortable fit. Reflective stripes are included for passive visibility.

It is one of a number of sports garments which Stoll have created to illustrate the potential of its machines.

As part of the collaboration, Carlos Oliveira, of the university’s Advanced Textiles Research Group, spent two weeks with Stoll in Germany working on the project.

Joerg Hartmann, Head of Fashion & Technology at Stoll, said: “The balaclava has won the Outdoor Industry Award in Gold 2016. This is the prove that the communication across disciplines, industry and research, enhances the degree of innovation.”

Posted November 22, 2016

Source: Nottingham Trent University

NILIT® Innergy Sport Headlines At SportsGear Sourcing Days

MIGDAL HAEMEK, Israel — November 22, 2016 —Revitalizing NILIT® Innergy Sport and the new NILIT ATS nylon 6.6 yarns will be the main attractions at the NILIT Fibers booth B1 at the upcoming SportsGear Sourcing Days. The show runs from December 6-7 at the Espace Rencontre in Annecy-le-Vieux, France.

NILIT Innergy Sport nylon 6.6 yarn captures body heat and reflects it back to the body as FIR (Far Infrared Rays) to gently and deeply warm and invigorate muscles. A naturally occurring mineral incorporated into the fibers converts the thermal energy and generates the FIR emissions. Independent laboratory testing confirms that NILIT Innergy Sport increases oxygen levels in the blood, reduces lactic acid build up in muscles, and relieves muscle fatigue, discomfort, and tension. All these actions lead to greater user comfort and better athletic performance, not to mention reduction in the appearance of cellulite. In addition, NILIT® Innergy Sport nylon yarn is durable, stays fresh, and protects from UV radiation making it the perfect choice for both outdoor and indoor athleticwear.

“NILIT Innergy Sport is a very special performance yarn that has been proven to help active people feel better and look better,” said Pierluigi Berardi, NILIT’s global marketing director. “Designers can use this exciting yarn to create activewear that provides unique benefits for athletes at all levels.”

Another innovation from NILIT is the new ATS (which stands for Air Textured Soft) special air jet texturing technology. NILIT’s ATS technology makes NILIT performance nylon yarns light, airy, and soft. In fact, NILIT ATS yarns are softer than cotton. They also dry faster and are more durable with longer-lasting suppleness.

NILIT’s ATS technology has instilled extra softness and strength into many of NILIT’s well-known performance yarns. NILIT Heat with natural thermal insulation, NILIT Breeze with cooling plus UV protection, NILIT Aquarius with moisture management, and NILIT Bodyfresh with antimicrobial protection are all softer and stronger than ever before.

Posted November 22, 2016

Source: NILIT® 

Alvanon Collaborates With The BF+DA To Support NYC-Area Fashion Talent

NEW YORK CITY — November 22, 2016 — Aspiring and talented fashion designers in New York City and surrounding areas are benefiting from additional tools and business consulting resources supplied by Alvanon to the Brooklyn Fashion+Design Accelerator. The tools and resources were donated as part of Alvanon’s own initiative to help restore technical skills to New York City and other global fashion hubs, including Hong Kong and London.

The BF+DA is a hub for ethical fashion and design that provides designers with the resources they need to transform their ideas into successful businesses. It offers a Certificate in Design Entrepreneurship and houses a small-run factory equipped with the latest technology in garment production, 3D manufacturing and start to finish services ranging from pattern and grading to sampling.
As part of the collaboration, Alvanon, the Global Apparel Business Expert, has gifted AlvaForm fit mannequins and blocks to BF+DA’s vibrant manufacturing and training facilities, along with business expertise consisting of workshops and one-on-one tutoring sessions.

According to Debera Johnson, executive director, BF+DA, Alvanon’s tools and intellectual resources support the organization’s intent to “fill the gap for upcoming designers from ‘made-by-designer’ to ‘made-by-others.’

“That’s a difficult gap to cross,” Johnson said. “BF+DA gives designers access to production sources so they can make just 20 or 100 of something. Once they are ready, they can go to larger manufacturers. We want to provide that path for them. Our goal is to be an innovation space, from design to prototype and production, to viability to market. We are helping people accelerate to success.”

Johnson added that designers at the Accelerator have opportunities to interact with pattern makers, sewers and knitwear developers, an experience that can benefit them throughout their careers.

Alvanon CEO Janice Wang added: “The process of designing and the process of making are totally intertwined. At BF+DA, designers actually see the intricate work of patternmaking and sewing. They see the skills necessary to make, and the pride and satisfaction that comes from transforming a conceptual work of art into a physical reality.”

Wang also noted that the BF+DA’s success as an accelerator demonstrates that local fashion businesses do not necessarily have to compete with offshore businesses.

“It’s important to regenerate the idea that ‘made in New York,’ ‘made in Brooklyn’ and ‘made locally’ do not have to compete with ‘made overseas,’” she said. “The nice thing about being in New York is that you have a lot of people with experience, which means that collaborators like Alvanon consultants can come in and talk about concepts such as sizing and fit.”

An additional note about BF+DA: On November 16, 2016, the BF+DA was awarded a $486K research grant to support the link between sustainability and technology in apparel. The grant is part of the U.S. Department of Commerce investing $15 million in entrepreneurs across the nation to move ideas to market and promote American innovation.

Posted November 22, 2016

Source: Alvanon

Lectra Equips Ruyi Group With Smart Technology To Upgrade And Optimize Its Cutting Rooms

PARIS— November 22, 2016 — Lectra brings state-of-the-art digital and automated cutting technology to support Ruyi Group’s intelligent cutting line and the company’s alignment with the country’s ‘Made in China 2025’ initiative.

Carving a clear path towards smart cutting rooms, Ruyi’s installation of eight Lectra cutting machines — including the Vector® Matchline which automatically matches lines and grids for suit-making and is a first for Asia Pacific — clearly demonstrates the company’s commitment to a fully automated factory with expert cutting capabilities.

“Lectra Vector Matchline is the world’s most advanced cutting machine capable of cutting with every line and grid perfectly matched,” said Qiuya Fu, chairman of Shandong Ruyi Group. “As a company dedicated to technology innovation, we are glad that Ruyi is the first in China to introduce this cutting machine in fashion making. This enables us to rival with western competitors in terms of technology. It is the value of Ruyi to use the best equipment to manufacture the best products.”

Implementing innovative and high performance solutions is pivotal for Chinese companies to embrace the ten-year strategic plan ‘Made in China 2025’. Drafted by the Chinese Ministry of Industry and Information Technology — with the guiding principle to upgrade China’s industries—the initiative is fast propelling the Chinese economy towards value-added manufacturing and smart industrial production.

Embracing ‘Made in China 2025’, Ruyi has selected Lectra’s advanced technology for the company’s recently-launched intelligent men’s suits production line, at a factory in Yinchuan, Northern China. A blossoming market in China — influenced by an improvement in people’s living standards, and the parallel desire to showcase personality through clothes  —mass customization demands production systems with robust end-to-end integrated data. For Ruyi, installing Lectra’s leading edge technology will optimize manufacturing and efficiency, reduce waste and improve overall product quality.

“This is a new milestone in the strategic alliance between Lectra and Ruyi, signed in 2014,” said Céline Choussy Bedouet, chief marketing and communications officer, Lectra. “Drawing on over four decades of innovation and expertise in the fashion industry, Lectra is the right partner to accompany Ruyi as it continues to embrace innovative solutions for the cutting room.”

Posted November 22, 2016

Source: Lectra

Sewbo Automates Garment Sewing

Seattle-based Sewbo Inc. reports its automated sewing robot has successfully managed to sew a T-shirt. The company worked around the one hurdle that has previously stymied automation in the sewing industry — a robot’s inability to handle a limp, fluid piece of fabric — by temporarily stiffening the fabric with a water-soluble sizing prior to sewing. Now that the concept has been proven in practice, Sewbo plans to expand its team and work on producing a commercial version of the technology.

“Our technology will allow manufacturers to create higher-quality clothing at lower costs in less time than ever before,” said Jonathan Zornow, the technology’s inventor. “Avoiding labor issues and shortening supply chains will help reduce the complexity and headaches surrounding today’s intricate global supply network.”

kasewbo
Sewbo has used an off-the shelf industrial robot to sew a T-shirt.

November/December 2016

Under Armour, Lectra Partner For UA Lighthouse

Paris-based Lectra reports Under Armour, Baltimore, Md., has chosen Lectra equipment  — including the Brio fabric spreader and Vector™ fabric-cutting machine — for its new 35,000-square-foot UA Lighthouse manufacturing and design center. Housing the latest technologies, the collaborative center will allow designers and manufacturers to develop innovative methods for creating and delivering state-of-the-art product.

“This partnership is the start of what we hope will be a long and fruitful relationship between two like-minded global companies,” said Jason Adams, president, Lectra North America. “Our technology is very much in line with where Under Armour wants to take manufacturing. As a company that also strives to push the boundaries of innovation, we applaud the leadership Under Armour has shown and we are honored to be involved in the launch of such an ambitious project.”

November/December 2016

Tonello Introduces Core Finishing Technology

Italy-based Tonello has introduced Core technology for producing uniform or contrasting effects during garment finishing using reduced water volumes with liquor ratios as low as 1:1. The technology is a compatible with various Tonello washing and dyeing machines, and may be implemented in any production cycle without interrupting the process.

According to the company, the Core technology offers the following advantages: product savings of between 50 and 80 percent and 96-percent water savings; reduced processing times; improved performance; and versatility because the machine can be used for multiple processes. Core also may be used to apply a variety of softeners, resins and finishes and essences.

dpftonello
Tonello’s Core technology is compatible with various Tonello washing and dyeing machines.

November/December 2016

NSF Awards Grant To Stony Creek Colors, Danforth

The National Science Foundation’s (NSF’s) Division of Industrial Innovation and Partnership has awarded a one-year grant of $224,676 to Springfield, Tenn.-based Stony Creek Colors and the Donald Danforth Plant Science Center, Creve Coeur, Mo., to help make denim manufacturing more sustainable.

The Danforth Center will work to better understand the genetics of the existing indigo plant stocks through DNA analysis. Stony Creek will use this research to develop an improved bio-based chemical derived from the renewable Persicaria tinctoria indigo crop with the goal of reducing the use of chemically synthesized indigo dye made from petroleum derivatives and harmful chemicals.

“Our bio-based dyes improve profitability and ecosystem health for farmers, while empowering designers, brands, and mills with greater transparency and traceability,” said Sarah Bellos, CEO and founder, Stony Creek Colors. “Stony Creek Colors’ research collaboration with the Danforth Center funded by this NSF grant is a critical next step in the evolution of this plant-derived chemical.”

November/December 2016

Textiles 2017: Will Manufacturing Thrive?

BornemanBy James M. Borneman, Editor In Chief

jborneman@textileworld.com

Regardless of your political views, there appears to be a change in attitude toward manufacturing in the United States. For some time, the importance of domestic manufacturing has been much maligned as something of the past rather than of the future. America developed a post-manufacturing service-based economy. In reality, strong manufacturing jobs were replaced by imported goods and service jobs.

According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, the average hourly wage in textile manufacturing is approximately $20.06 an hour in a textile mill, $16.93 in a textile product mill and $17.87 in apparel manufacturing. Those are significant wages compared to wages in the service jobs that many were forced to pursue after losing textile jobs.

The good news is that if the promise of reduced regulation and reduced tax burdens come to pass, the industry can continue or even accelerate the recent investment trends.

Energy costs, an important factor in industry growth, may further be reduced and influence future global investment in U.S. manufacturing.

In building a manufacturing company and investing time and money, it also is encouraging to think the government might support your work rather than discourage your efforts.

Is manufacturing dirty, unsustainable and old? Or is it the core of a strong economy, providing good jobs and striving to drive technology forward?

The president-elect has had the responsibility of making a payroll, he understands the regulatory environment and knows how to navigate the tax code.

Good tax policy and meaningful regulation lowers the barriers to investment, expansion and economic growth. Industry needs to be regulated — no doubt — but fair regulation
with regulators that understand the consequences is imperative.

Whether or not it is just window dressing, U.S. manufacturers seem to have embraced green and sustainability trends. Strong consideration is given to new facilities, processes and facility upgrades. A sustainable supply chain is supported by consumer interests — driven by market forces rather than government regulation. The same can be said for U.S.-manufactured goods. It would appear “Made in the USA” currently matters.

International trade is another matter. Without becoming protectionist, will the administration focus on fair trade and application of current trade law focusing on enforcement? Time will tell.

The effect of healthcare benefits on manufacturing has been a major cost center, while workers struggle with high deductibles and narrower care selections. Can the new administration deliver on fixing the system and lowering costs?

The year 2017 will be a new environment for US textiles and manufacturing in general. Innovation continues, investment continues, and if economic growth can take hold,
new opportunities can take hold.

Over the years, U.S. textiles have survived, and in some cases thrived. Let’s see what 2017 delivers.

November/December 2016

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