The United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA): Findings Show Sharp Increase In Sourcing Executives Who Are Concerned About The Protectionist Trade Policy Agenda In The U.S.

WASHINGTON, D.C. — July 29, 2024 — The United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA) has released the eleventh annual Fashion Industry Benchmarking Study, a survey of executives from leading fashion brands, retailers, importers, and wholesalers, including some of the largest brands and retailers in the country.

Conducted in conjunction with Dr. Sheng Lu, Professor in the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies at the University of Delaware, the survey asked respondents about their business outlook, sourcing practices, utilization of Free Trade Agreements and preference programs, and views on trade policy.

Key findings from the 2024 Fashion Industry Benchmarking Study include:

  • The top five business challenges in 2024 are: inflation and economic outlook in the U.S., managing the forced labor risks in the supply chain, shipping delays and supply chain disruptions, managing geopolitics and other political instability related to sourcing, and the protectionist trade policy agenda in the U.S.
  • 75 percent of respondents feel optimistic or somewhat optimistic about the next five years.
  • U.S. fashion companies are actively exploring new sourcing opportunities, with a particular focus on emerging destinations in Asia and the Western Hemisphere.
  • Making apparel sourcing more sustainable, ethical, and socially responsible remains a pivotal focus for U.S. fashion companies. 82 percent of respondents plan to allocate MORE resources toward sustainability and compliance in 2024 and nearly 95 percent of respondents also plan to either increase their operational budget or maintain it at the same level as last year to support enhanced sustainability and compliance efforts.

“We always expect greater concern about protectionist trade policy during a Presidential election year,” said Julia Hughes, president of USFIA. “However the sharp increase from 15 percent last year to 45 percent this year highlights a new level of concern from sourcing executives. Both parties advocate using tariffs as trade policy, and many of the proposals are difficult, if not  impossible, to plan for. While there is optimism for the year ahead, this year’s report shows greater concern about protectionist policy and geopolitical risks by the fashion industry.”

Fashion Industry Benchmarking Study: https://www.usfashionindustry.com/pdf_files/2024/2024_USFIA_Benchmarking_Study.pdf

Posted: July 29, 2024

Source: The United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA) 

Eastman Exports Appoints Industry Veteran Ritesh Kumar As CEO To Lead Strategic Growth

MUMBAI — July 29, 2024 — Tiruppur-based Eastman Exports, India’s fourth largest knitwear manufacturer and exporter, has announced the appointment of Ritesh Kumar as its CEO. Kumar brings with him 25 years of extensive experience in garment industry, having previously served as the senior vice president at Shahi Exports.

Ritesh Kumar

Kumar’s appointment reflects Eastman Exports’ commitment to driving innovation and expanding its footprint in India while simultaneously strengthening its global business.  Eastman Exports supplies garments to luxury clothing brands across the world, with the U.S. being its primary market.

Kumar holds a PG in GMT from NIFT. Apart from Shahi Exports, he was associated with Dubai-based Arise IIP as the COO of its garments division setting up industry in West Africa.

“We are glad to welcome Mr. Kumar. He brings with him a wealth of knowledge in technological innovation and strategy. We are confident that his expertise will help Eastman Exports reach greater heights,” said Eastman Exports’ Chairman N Chandran.

“I am honoured to join Eastman Exports and look forward to leveraging my experience to drive innovation and propel the company to new heights in both global and domestic markets,” Kumar said.

Posted: July 29, 2024

Source: Eastman Exports

Future Of Fashion: Hainsworth Woollen Mill Partners With Manchester Metropolitan University (MMU) Students For Slow Fashion Design Competition

PUDSEY, England — July 29, 2024 — Heritage textile manufacturer and woollen mill Hainsworth has challenged students from Manchester Metropolitan University (MMU) to design a garment representing transeasonal fashion.

The 23/24 Live Brief competition centered around the slow fashion movement, encouraging third-year Fashion Design students to craft an item of clothing that focused on timeless designs that can be worn across the seasons. Students used Hainsworth’s wool fabrics for their designs, known for their thermoregulating properties, keeping wearers warm in winter and cool in summer.

Tom Halford modelling Gareth Godfrey-Williams’ winning garment

Students were encouraged to consider various aspects such as layering, garment longevity, versatility, quality, craftsmanship, style over trends, functionality, and fit. The idea behind the slow fashion movement is to reject excessive consumerism and mass-produced clothing in favor of ethical clothing production and consumption, focusing on high-quality designs made to last.

A team from Hainsworth judged the competition and chose Gareth Godfrey-Williams as the worthy winner. Gareth designed a field jacket made from wool shell, featuring a taped nylon hood, back vent, lightweight linen lining, 14 pockets, and adjustable cuffs and sides. Vivien Li was selected as runner-up with a raincoat that could fold down into a bag. Gareth received £500 for winning the competition, and Vivien, £200.

Andrea Noble, Design and Product Development Manager, with MMU students in Weaving Department

Ivana Noon, Business Development manager at Hainsworth, explained: “Gareth’s final garment, made from a Hainsworth Military Lightweight Cavalry Twill, was truly remarkable. We were in awe of the unique construction of his garment, which was inspired by the machinery that Gareth took photos of when he and his fellow students visited the mill earlier this year. His attention to detail was second to none. Gareth also demonstrated utmost professionalism throughout the project, a truly deserving and talented winner.”

Hainsworth is a 240-year-old British vertical woolen mill and one of the last remaining in Britain, and can process a product from raw fiber to finished cloth entirely from its site in West Yorkshire.

The Royal Warrant Holder’s premium woolen textiles are chosen by designers, tailors and garment manufacturers from diverse industries, including fashion, interiors, theater and military.

Posted: July 29, 2024

Source: Hainsworth

Kraig Biocraft Laboratories Enter Rapid Growth Rearing Phase For Third Spider Silk Production Cycle

ANN ARBOR, Mich. — July 29, 2024 —  Biocraft Laboratories Inc. announced that it has entered the rapid growth rearing phase for its third spider silk production cycle of the season. During this phase, the silkworms grow exponentially in preparation for spinning the company’s proprietary recombinant spider silk cocoons.

Over the last week, the company has taken steps to add additional production space to accommodate the rapidly growing silkworms during this phase. The company continues to closely monitor the health and performance of the entire silkworm colony during this period of significant growth. Reports from the company’s rearing team continue to show that the BAM-1 Hybrids are the most robust production strain that the company has ever fielded.

As previously reported, the company has adopted a batch-rearing process to minimize overcrowding and level loading the need for fresh, dry mulberry during the traditional rainy season. This approach is designed to further support silkworm colony health and ensure optimal rearing and cocooning conditions.

“Kraig Labs has delivered a quantum leap in spider silk production capacity. This advancement was powered by our strategic investments in facilities, equipment, silkworm genetics, and building out a team with the knowledge and expertise to utilize those resources,” said company COO Jon Rice. “We are seeing significant breakthroughs in our business plan nearly every week as we methodically and systematically advance our production capacities for the world’s first cost-effective, commercially scaleable spider silk.”

Posted: July 29, 2024

Source: Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, Inc.

AATCC Textile Standards Adopted By Colombia And Sri Lanka Governments

RESEARCH TRIANGLE PARK, N.C. — July 26, 2024 — AATCC test methods and procedures are international standards, meeting the criteria set forth by the World Trade Organization and used around the globe. The standards gain additional recognition through Memoranda of Understanding with Colombia and Sri Lanka.

The Colombian Institute of Technical Standards and Certification (ICONTEC) recently translated and adopted three AATCC colorfastness to water test methods as a Colombian Technical Standard (NTC). NTC 6706 is technically equivalent to AATCC TM107 Test Method for Colorfastness to Water. AATCC TM106 Test Method for Colorfastness to Water: Sea was adopted as NTC 850 in 2022, replacing an older standard. AATCC TM162 Colorfastness to Water: Chlorinated Pool was adopted as NTC 2292-2.

Each of the standards is translated from the original English to Spanish. A cover page indicates the exact designation of the AATCC method on which the NTC is based. The cover page also indicates whether the adopted version is identical to the original or if modifications were made. In the case of the colorfastness methods, water and chlorinated pool water are identical; sea water is modified.

ICONTEC is also pursuing adoption of several other AATCC standards including additional colorfastness method, dimensional stability, and smoothness appearance.

Carolina Angulo Fandiño, ICONTEC Standardization Leader Manager, also noted that AATCC TM20 and TM20A for fiber analysis are particularly important since the withdrawal of ASTM D629.

The Sri Lanka Standards Institution (SLSI) is also in the process of adopting AATCC standards. Nivanthi K Jayaweera, SLSI Assistant Director, says, “We believe that the expertise and resources offered by AATCC will be invaluable in guiding us through this process of standard identification and adoption.”

AATCC standards are created by a consensus process. All are invited to participate and contribute. Every comment is considered and addressed. The published document reflects a thorough review by diverse stakeholders. In addition to adoption as national standards, many AATCC test methods are adopted by ISO. Test methods published by ISO Technical Committee 38 on Textiles for colorfastness, dimensional stability, appearance, and more are technically equivalent to earlier AATCC methods. In most cases, the relationship is noted in the History section of the relevant AATCC standard.

To learn more about AATCC standards, visit www.aatcc.org/standards. The complete collection of more than 150 active textile standards is available in the annual AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures.

Posted: July 26, 2024

Source: AATCC

NCTO Releases Statement Welcoming New Bipartisan Legislation Aimed At Combatting International Trade Crimes And Fraud

WASHINGTON, D.C. — July 26, 2024 — National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued the following statement today welcoming the introduction of the bipartisan “Protecting American Industry and Labor from International Trade Crimes Act,” a bill that aims to combat trade fraud and hold those committing the crimes accountable.

Statement by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas:

“We commend Chairman John Moolenaar (R-MI) and Ranking Member Raja Krishnamoorthi (D-IL), who lead the House Select Committee on the CCP, along with Congresswoman Ashley Hinson (R-IA) and others for introducing this bipartisan legislation that will put real teeth into combatting trade crimes that are undermining American textile and apparel manufacturers.

“NCTO has called for additional federal tools and resources to urgently address the pervasive trade crimes impacting our industry as well as other U.S. manufacturing sectors. We are pleased that this legislation will do exactly that by establishing a formal structure within the Department of Justice’s Criminal Division dedicated to aggressively prosecute international trade crimes.

“The U.S. textile and apparel supply chain has been severely harmed by rampant trade fraud, including an onslaught of imported products made with forced labor, which circumvent the U.S. ban on these imports, fraudulent rules of origin claims under our free trade agreements, and evasion of duties through abuse of the de minimis trade loophole. This had resulted in the closure of 18 textile plants over the past several months and job losses, combined with closures in Western Hemisphere trade partners who have suffered tens of thousands of job losses.

“We believe this bipartisan legislation is a critical step forward in confronting such massive fraud and will serve to hold bad actors accountable and help shield our vital domestic industries from these crimes.”

Posted: July 26, 2024

Source: National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO)

Orion S.A.’S 2023 Sustainability Report Focuses On ‘Driving Innovation, Enabling The Everyday’

HOUSTON  — July 26, 2024 — Two years ago, a severe drought hit the Nelson Mandela Bay municipality on the southern coast of South Africa. Reservoirs were nearly empty, pushing the population of 1.3 million close to “day zero” when water stops flowing from the taps.

The region is home to an Orion S.A. facility that produces carbon black – an essential material for the country’s tire industry. The crisis inspired Orion to find a solution that would help the municipality conserve its precious water supply.

Orion S.A. Water Treatment

Despite significant engineering challenges, Orion built a water treatment system at its facility. The technology recycles treated effluent water from a nearby municipal sewage plant so that the water can be used in Orion’s production process.

“The potable water we once used to make our products is saved for the community,” Orion CEO Corning Painter said. “The treated effluent water that once got pumped into the ocean is now repurposed for an industry that makes carbon black, which enables car tires to last longer and perform better. Recycling the water will also lead to a substantial cost savings.”

The South Africa case study is featured in Orion’s “Sustainability Report 2023,” which the company released today with the theme: “Driving innovation, enabling the everyday.” The report covers a variety of highlights, including:

  • Achieving an EcoVadis Platinum Medal, positioning the company in the 99th percentile of companies evaluated.
  • Opening a Battery Innovation Center to develop new products and formulations for lithium-ion batteries driving the shift to electrification.
  • Investing 12.8 million euros, including 6.4 million euros in grant funding from the German government and European Union, to further develop and demonstrate a climate-neutral process for producing carbon black from alternative carbon sources.
  • Leading the carbon black industry in the number of production sites with ISCC (International Sustainability & Carbon Certification) PLUS certification.
  • Reaching the goal of having 80 percent of employees receive 40 or more training hours — double the average training hours in 2022.

In a Q&A section with Painter, the CEO describes how the company developed a reputation for being a leader in developing sustainable products in its industry.

“Our history of innovation and sustainability makes us the perfect disruptor,” Painter said. “We won’t overtake our bigger competitors by playing the same game. Making sustainable products is not only the right thing to do, it is also what customers want.”

In the report, the company unveiled its water-recycling project in South Africa. Orion is the only global company in the carbon black industry that has a site in Sub-Saharan Africa.

The project began in early 2023 and involved installing a 65-meter-long pipeline from the Orion site to the municipal water treatment plant. A horizontal-boring process was used to run the pipeline 5 meters under a road.

A 7-meter-deep sump had to be built for the system. This was a major excavation challenge because the sandy soil did not provide much solid ground. It was like digging a hole in a sand dune. But the team used sandbags to stabilize the ground and keep the hole from being filled with water.

Orion now has the capacity to recover 3 million liters a day from the municipal plant and treat the effluent water so that it meets the quality level for the site’s production process.

“With this project, we’re demonstrating our commitment to our company’s core values: accountability, innovation and building enduring relationships,” Painter said. “Finding an innovative solution to conserving water is one of the best ways we can strengthen our relationship with the community and improve supply security for our customers.”

The 2023 Sustainability Report can be found on Orion’s website here: https://orioncarbons.com/sustainability/esg-reports/

Posted: July 26, 2024

Source: Orion S.A.

VDMA Textile Machinery Association Members Position Statement: Textile Machinery For A Sustainable Textile Industry

FRANKFURT, Germany  — July 26, 2024 — In a position paper published today, the companies organized in the VDMA Textile Machinery Association comment on the ambitious EU regulations and their national implementation for the sustainable and circular transformation of the textile and clothing industry.

The production of textiles requires a large number of resources, such as water, energy and chemicals. “The members of VDMA Textile Machinery support customers with products worldwide to utilise great potential already at the textile production stage to thereby reduce CO2 emissions,” explained Verena Thies, deputy chairwoman of VDMA Textile Machinery

The position statement emphasizes the importance of efficient processes, circular economy and binding rules for all market participants. Besides, the position paper summarizes the status of textile-to-textile recycling processes as well as the framework conditions for reprocessing of recyclates. The companies of VDMA Textile Machinery develop processes and technologies for recycling and provide the technical prerequisites for the efficient reuse and recycling of textile raw materials, whether natural or man-made fibers.

The executive board of VDMA Textile Machinery stresses additionally that the new EU regulations for circular economy and their national implementation must be designed with realistic targets, measurable effects and as little bureaucracy as possible. Furthermore, market surveillance is needed to ensure a level playing field for all market participants.

On behalf of the industry, the VDMA Textile Machinery Association calls for creating better location conditions in Germany and EU as a favorable environment for innovation and competitiveness for textile machinery manufacturing to significantly advance the sustainability of the textile industry: The Textile Machinery Association strongly emphasizes the need for a wide range of low-cost green energy, which is essential for the implementation and sustainable use of recycling solutions in the manufacturing industry. The association also sees the positive shaping of location conditions (the potential for skilled labor, a reduction in bureaucracy, shorter approval periods, investment security and predictability as well as a reduction in the tax burden) as a decisive factor for supporting sustainable business in the highly competitive textile and clothing industry.

The complete position paper can be read and downloaded via these links: www.vdma.org/textile-machinery and www.industryarena.com/m4t.

The production program and services of the members of VDMA Textile Machinery include equipment and technologies for recycling textile production waste, textiles, textile auxiliaries or waste heat, and for processing recycled materials into textiles. An overview is available here: Machinery for recycling and processing recycled materials – vdma.org – VDMA – https://vdma.org/viewer/-/v2article/render/78279497

Posted: July 26, 2024

Source: VDMA Textile Machinery Association

INDOCHINO And Nordstrom Strengthen Partnership With Expansion Of Made To Measure Suiting In Five New Locations

VANCOUVER  — July 25, 2024 — INDOCHINO, the global provider of custom apparel, and Nordstrom, the renowned fashion retailer, are pleased to announce the expansion of their successful partnership with the addition of five new INDOCHINO shop-in-shop locations across the United States.

Building upon the phenomenal success of this collaboration since 2020, INDOCHINO will now offer its made to measure suiting experience in the following Nordstrom locations:

  • Nordstrom Los Cerritos Center – Cerritos, Calif.
  • Nordstrom Alderwood Mall – Lynnwood, Wash.
  • Nordstrom Thousand Oaks – Thousand Oaks, Calif.
  • Nordstrom Irvine Spectrum Center – Irvine, Calif.
  • Nordstrom Fashion Centre at Pentagon City – Pentagon City, Va.

This expansion brings the total number of INDOCHINO shops within Nordstrom to 32, further solidifying their commitment to providing personalized, high-quality menswear to a wider audience. With this latest addition, INDOCHINO’s reach now extends to within 50 miles of more than 90% of the U.S. population, ensuring that customers across the country can enjoy the unparalleled experience of creating custom-tailored suits and apparel.

“We are thrilled to deepen our partnership with Nordstrom and bring our unique made to measure experience to even more customers,” said Drew Green, CEO of INDOCHINO. “This expansion is a testament to the success of our collaboration and the growing demand for personalized fashion.”

“Nordstrom has always been committed to helping customers look good and feel their best along with an exceptional level of service,” said Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion director at Nordstrom. “Our partnership with Indochino certainly reflects those shared values and gives customers the experience of making really great custom suits that speak to the evolving tailored market.”

Customers visiting the new INDOCHINO shops at their local Nordstrom can expect a personalized shopping experience guided by the brand’s expert Style Guides who will help them create custom-tailored suits, shirts, chinos, and outerwear. During each appointment, customers take on the role of designer, picking out every detail of their garments to make them truly one-of-a-kind. Each unique piece of apparel is made to the customer’s precise measurements and shipped directly to their door; hassle free within three weeks.

INDOCHINO and Nordstrom invite customers to discover the ultimate in personalized style and experience the future of made to measure fashion at their new shop-in-shop locations.

Posted: July 25, 2024

Source: Indochino Apparel Inc.

Diana Wyman Steps Down as The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) Executive Vice President

RESEARCH TRIANGLE PARK, N.C.  — July 25, 2024 — After five years as executive vice president of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), Diana Wyman informed the Board of Directors of her resignation, effective August 9, 2024. Wyman leaves AATCC to join Recreational Equipment Inc. (REI), a Silver corporate member of the Association. She promised, “I will continue to be an active AATCC member and volunteer, wherever I go.”

Diana Wyman

In addition to serving as executive vice president, Wyman has been director of the Publications, Membership, and Technical departments. A member of AATCC since 2001, she has also participated in numerous administrative and technical committees.

In the interim, John “Jack” Daniels will fill the vacated post until a permanent replacement is named. Daniels previously held the executive vice president role for more than 20 years and the board of directors has agreed for him to be named executive vice president, Emeritus. Wyman and Daniels will work together during the coming weeks to ensure a smooth transition. Daniels said of Wyman: “Your leadership at AATCC over so many years has been greatly appreciated by our members, and by me personally, knowing first-hand what you’ve accomplished over these many years for all of the departments of AATCC!”

Other board members shared similar sentiments. Kanti Jasani said, “Diana, besides being EVP is one of the strongest technical experts on the AATCC team.” Wyman led the formation of AATCC’s e-textile committee and was instrumental in publishing a test method for measuring fiber fragment “microfiber” release in laundering. She has spoken on these and other testing-related topics at conferences and industry events around the world.

On the administrative front, Wyman successfully navigated AATCC through COVID shutdowns and restrictions. She oversaw building enhancements, displays, and celebrations for the Association’s 100th anniversary in 2021. Wyman negotiated and signed memoranda of understanding with Colombia and Sri Lanka to enable national adoption of AATCC standards.

AATCC President John Crocker said, “Diana and I have been professional peers for over 20 years, working within AATCC, ASTM, and ISO.  She will be sorely missed as the Executive Vice President, but I look forward to continue working with her in the standards communities and I wish her well and success in her future endeavors!”

The AATCC Board of Directors will begin the search for a new executive immediately. A search committee and job description are being developed and will be announced soon.

Posted: July 25, 2024

Source: American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)

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