ITMF: International Forum For The Global Textile Industry

Dr. Christian Schindler

The International Textile Machinery Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) Director General Dr. Christian Schindler shares his thoughts about the organization and the textile industry ahead of the 2024 ITMF annual conference.

TW Special Report

The International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) is a Switzerland-based organization dedicated to the global textile industry. Its mission statement includes a commitment to connect, inform and represent its member companies all with a mind to strengthen relations both within and outside of the textile industry.

Member companies are able to cooperate on an international level with other members as well as organizations representing sectors allied to their industries. ITMF provides members with surveys, studies and publications, and also hosts an annual conference for learning and networking opportunities.

Dr. Christian Schindler is director general of ITMF. He recently chatted with Textile World about the organization, benefits of membership and ITMF’s upcoming annual conference to be held later this year in Uzbekistan, among other topics.

Textile World: ITMF has attracted a diverse group of members. Why do members join? What are the benefits of membership?

Schindler: ITMF is a platform for the entire textile value chain spanning all segments from fiber producers to producers of home textiles and garments including textile machinery producers and even retailers. Associations and companies join ITMF because they benefit from a unique set of statistics, reports and surveys, as well as from a unique network that looks at the entire textile value chain. Being part of a global network helps international-oriented companies to better under-stand the dynamics of the global textile value chain. Building an international network of colleagues and friends is an important aspect of joining ITMF.

TW: Please tell readers who are unfamiliar with ITMF about the data that ITMF collects and the publications and reports that are available to members.

Schindler: There are several statistics that ITMF publishes on a regular basis. First, for around 50 years, ITMF has published the annual so called “International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics” (ITMSS), which is a compilation of shipments of new textile machinery to any country in the world. This publication illustrates how many new ring-spindles, rotors, texturing spindles, shuttleless looms, large circular knitting machines or tenters were shipped to any country in any given year. People can see the investment intensities as well as the major investment destinations.

Second, the so called “International Production Cost Comparison” (IPCC) has been published every other year since the 1980s. In this publication, the production costs in U.S. dollars of yarns down to the finished fabrics are compared in 14 different countries/regions around the world. This publication helps to understand the cost competitiveness of a country/region.

Third, ITMF’s “Global Textile Industry Survey” (GTIS), which is conducted every other month, provides the entire textile value chain with information about the state and outlook of the industry covering all segments from fiber producers to producers of home textiles, garments and technical textiles and regions from South America to East Asia. There are also other publications like the “International Textile Industry Statistics” (ITIS) that provides data about machinery capacities and fiber consumption in countries around the world.

TW: What were the main results of the 26th GTIS, the most recent survey as of TW’s press time?

Schindler: ITMF’s 26th GTIS clearly highlighted that the entire textile value chain is faced with a very difficult business situation. As the graph shows (see Figure 1), the balance between companies claiming to have a “good” business situation — 13 percent — and a “poor” one — 42 percent — is -29 percentage points (pp). Business expectations remained positive at +25pp, which is what we saw in the March survey.

The reason for this lack-luster business situation is the lack of demand and higher costs for energy, raw materials, logistics, labor, or capital which is weighing heavily on companies’ profit margins (See Figure 2). Of course, geopolitics with wars in Ukraine and Gaza were, and are, not helping to improve business and consumer confidence.

Nevertheless, the survey also revealed that there are more companies seeing a more favorable business environment in six months— 36 percent — than a less favorable one — 11 percent. But it seems also clear that there will only be a gradual improvement given the fact that 53 percent of respondents expect that the business situation will be unchanged in six months. It can be said that there is the hope that the downward cycle that started at the end of 2022 is coming to an end in 2024, which can be regarded as a transition year.

TW: As someone with an inherent international perspective, how do you perceive each of the active economic areas — North America, Mexico, Central and South America, Europe, China, India and Southeast Asia — in terms of opportunities, challenges, growth and specialization? Any specific areas that could be high-lighted for strong growth or a lack of growth?”

Schindler: I think that the U.S. economy is the one that has outperformed all developed economies in 2023 and continues going strong in 2024. While demand remains relatively strong, the U.S. retail industry was, and still is, sitting on inventory that was built up in 2021 and 2022. Once inventories move back to normal levels — and they are slowing coming down since the end of 2022 — brands and retailers will start placing more orders again. Another country that is seeing strong growth is India, which was the fastest growing developing country in 2023.The country has a strong domestic market whose retail market is becoming more and more mature and continues growing driven by demographics and by attracting more and more investments. Therefore, it provides a lot of opportunities to the textile and apparel industry. China has seen a decent growth in 2023, albeit from low 2022 levels. The country is still by far the largest producer of textiles and apparel and has an enormous domestic market to serve. Nevertheless, the country is faced with challenges like a shrinking population, a troubled real estate market, a deflationary tendency and persistent youth unemployment. Europe is still struggling the most as it was more strongly impacted by rising energy prices. Just like in 2023, the world economy is growing at around 3 percent in 2024. This is lower than the historic level of almost 4 percent between 2010-2019.

TW: The United States is in an election year and inflation is in the news even in the textile industry. Is inflation a global issue at the moment? Is inflation affecting European machinery manufacturers and/or affecting investment in various regions?

Schindler: In general, inflation is a global phenomenon that was fueled by several factors. Fiscal and monetary policies around the world were expansionary at the start of the pandemic which provided companies and consumers with a lot of needed support. While demand surged in 2021 and 2022, supply chains were disrupted and sometimes broken. Products or semi-products were in high demand that supply could not meet, and shipping containers were not where they were needed, for example.

All this led to supply and demand imbalances that resulted in rising prices. Furthermore, rising energy prices in the aftermath of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in February 2022 added to higher costs and dampened demand. As of the end of 2022, the textile and textile machinery industries found themselves in a perfect storm of rising costs and dwindling demand. Consumers saw their disposable income fall in 2023. But with inflation falling back significantly since the peak in early 2023 and higher nominal wages across many industries, real wages are growing again which should eventually strengthen demand. As for investments, textile machinery companies are struggling just like textile companies. In 2023, some machinery producers benefited from a long order backlog, while order income remained low. Given the low order intake in the textile industry, only companies with a solid balance sheet will be able to invest now and prepare for the upswing that will eventually come.

TW: In September, ITMF will host its annual conference, which for the first time will be held jointly with the International Apparel Federation (IAF). What are the benefits of hosting a joint event with the IAF?

Schindler: The main benefit is that we will have one event for the global textile value chain and that all those persons that are affiliated with both organizations will only need to travel once. Furthermore, the strength of two organizations coming together for one event will provide additional insights for each other’s members.

TW: Why Uzbekistan and what unique opportunities does the location offer? How does hosting the event benefit the textile industry in Uzbekistan?

Schindler: Uzbekistan has seen enormous change in the last 10 years, especially since the new president, Mr. Shavkat Mirziyoyev, started to transform and open the country. The number of private investments in the cotton, textile and apparel industry is significant. ITMF’s International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics reveals that especially in cotton spinning machinery Uzbekistan — with a population of around 35 million — was among the five biggest investors during the past 10 years. But also in the other downstream segments, a lot of investments took place. Worth noting is the important fact that Uzbekistan was also able to get rid of the so-called cotton ban in 2022, introduced in 2010 by the cotton campaign, a coalition of human rights NGOs, independent trade unions, brand associations, responsible investors and academics. Uzbekistan is the “new kid on the block” that offers interesting sourcing alternatives being located between China, India and Europe.

TW: For someone who has never attended an ITMF annual conference before, what can they expect from the event?What are your hopes for the attendees?

Schindler: First, all attendees will learn of course a lot about the Uzbek textile and apparel industry, but also about the country that is one of the safest countries in the world and that it offers a lot of history and culture as well as very divers and attractive landscape. Second, the conference will cover very important topics like how regulations in different regions will impact the global textile industry, and how innovation and collaboration will shape the way companies will produce and serve markets. The general theme “Innovation, Collaboration & Regulation — Drivers of the Textile & Apparel Industry” will serve as a guideline for the discussions among industry experts. One important aspect of the ITMF & IAF Conference 2024 is certainly the unique opportunity to meet colleagues and friends from around the world from the entire textile value chain.

2024 Quarterly Volume III

2024 State Of The U.S. Textile Industry

Norman Chapman

NCTO Chairman Norman Chapman outlined key industry facts and explained policy issues during NCTO’s 20th annual meeting.

By Norman Chapman

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) represents the full spectrum of the U.S. textile sector — a production chain that employees 502,000 workers nationwide and produces almost $64.8 billion in output annually. We are an essential industry that equips U.S. warfighters and one that pivoted overnight to produce personal protective equipment (PPE) during the COVID pandemic.

The U.S. textile industry has made significant investments in the United States. Its innovations are unparalleled and its contributions to local communities and the U.S. economy are critical.

While the domestic textile industry is a key contributor to the U.S. economy and critical part of the military and public health industrial base, our sector is facing a crisis of historic pro-portions as the result of rapidly deteriorating market conditions coupled with unchecked foreign predatory trade practices and diminished customs enforcement activities.

On the economic front last year, our industry saw historic inflationary pressures, a severe global slowdown, weak consumer demand, a glut of retail inventory that translated into poor demand for future orders of textiles, and a contraction in manufacturing.

The fallout also extends beyond our borders to hemispheric partners— parties to U.S. free trade agreements including CAFTA-DR and USMCA — who, along with U.S. textile producers, form an integrated, vertical textile and apparel coproduction chain and represent the counter-weight to production in Asia.

To address these troubling trends, NCTO has been highly engaged with industry allies in Congress and the Biden administration to confront the severe crisis and challenging issues facing the industry.

NCTO hosted or participated in numerous congressional and administration visits throughout 2023 and into early 2024.

In July, NCTO executives and staff united to participate in a critical Washington fly-in and met with some of the most powerful members of Congress as well as the nation’s top trade chief.

We outlined policies critical to NCTO membership including: closing the de minimis loophole; strengthening customs enforcement; holding China accountable; strengthening our domestic procurement laws; maintaining the yarn-forward textile rule in CAFTA-DR and other trade agreements; and passing the Farm Bill and Miscellaneous Tariff Bill (MTB), which are so critical to our domestic industrial base.

We are literally making national news every night on de minimis. This is no longer an issue that is on page three of national news; it’s on the front pages of the Wall Street Journal, New York Times and Time magazine.

This is a massive, coordinated effort involving NCTO and textile industry leaders who have had significant accomplishments that have turned the tide and changed the trends of conversations in Washington.

We cannot thank those members enough who do so very much to support our activities and go way above and beyond.

Especially given the velocity of things coming at us this year — several members repeatedly came to town like Andy Warlick, Eddie Ingle, David Smith, and so many other leaders.

We met with the highest levels of the cabinet and the highest levels of the Congress. Our industry’s effectiveness, breadth and prowess was noticed by all, and the urgency of what we were asking for as an industry became a huge priority for everyone in Washington — no matter the party affiliation. Recently, Secretary Alejandro Mayorkas and the Department of Homeland Security (DHS) team responded to our urgent calls for a significantly stepped up textile and apparel enforcement plan to help address trade fraud — and that wouldn’t have happened without the concerted effort by the NCTO staff and the members who engaged here in Washington.

NCTO’s work is noted at the highest levels of our government. In July, President Joe Biden made a historic visit to NCTO member Auburn Manufacturing Inc. in Mechanic Falls, Maine, elevating the U.S. textile industry’s profile and reinforcing its competitiveness and economic contribution. This is the first visit to the industry by a sit-ting president in decades.

I would like to sincerely thank our staff, led by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas and the entire hard working NCTO team, as well as our industry leadership for successfully navigating through challenging economic times and polarization in Congress, while partnering with the administration and key congressional offices to secure a number of critical achievements last year.

NCTO’s effective advocacy efforts resulted in a long list of accomplishments in 2023, including intensifying pressure on Congress and the administration to close the de minimis waiver system and step up enforcement of the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFPLA) and import fraud; safeguarding the integrity of our free trade agreements; enhancing government procurement of U.S. textile-based products; and maintaining a strong position on China trade enforcement including tariffs on finished textiles and apparel.

Before laying out NCTO’s policy wins in 2023, I want to quickly recap how the industry fared “by the numbers” last year.

By The Numbers

Given the economic and trade headwinds the industry faced in 2023, the fact that the industry only registered slight declines in some of the key metrics is a testament to its resilience and strength. In 2023, the value of U.S. man-made fiber, textile and apparel shipments totaled an estimated $64.8 billion compared with $67.4 billion in shipments in 2022.1

Here are additional key industry facts:

  • U.S. exports of fibers, textiles and apparel were $29.7 billion in 2023 compared with $33.9 billion in 2022.2
  • The United States is the second largest individual country exporter of textile-related products in the world.
  • The U.S. textile and apparel industry invested $20.9 billion in new plants and equipment from 2012 to 2021, the last year data is currently available for this figure. Recently, U.S. manufacturers have opened new facilities throughout the textile production chain, including recycling facilities to convert textile and other waste to new textile uses and resins.3

Onshoring and nearshoring trends continued to strengthen Made in USA production and our vital coproduction chain with the Western Hemisphere, while NCTO continued to press for effective enactment of policies in Washington aimed at expanding Berry and buy American rules to fuel growth in American-made products for the military, PPE and federal agencies.
At the end of the day, some key fundamentals for the U.S. textile industry remained sound, while others weakened due to the issues outlined above. We remain committed to growing our businesses and working with the administration and Congress to help shape effective policies that will ensure future expansion of this vital and strategic industry.

While we expect to see ongoing challenges this year, which will test our resolve, we know collectively as an industry this will not weaken our resilience or our innovative spirit.

Policy Issues

Now, I would like to highlight a few accomplishments NCTO staff achieved during the year.
Customs Enforcement — NCTO actively engaged with the administration and Congress to press for stepped up enforcement against unfair trade practices by China and other foreign competitors, sounding the alarm on the damaging impact this fraudulent activity is having on U.S. textile producers and our Western Hemisphere trade partners. We called on U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) to immediately step-up enforcement against slave labor in supply chains under the UFLPA, fraudulent origin claims under free trade agreements, “de minimis” shipments that facilitate illegal trade, largely bypass duties and inspection, and put the industry at a competitive disadvantage.

Another significant accomplishment was coordination on a bipartisan letter led by Senate Finance Committee Chairman Ron Wyden (D-Ore.) calling on CBP to ensure Chinese companies aren’t evading U.S. laws against forced labor and costing American jobs, by stepping up oversight and enforcement provisions in trade agreements with Central American and North American trading partners. As a result of these efforts, DHS Secretary Mayorkas announced a comprehensive textile enforcement plan to address enforcement concerns raised by the industry recently — this made the top of the Wall Street Journal.
De Minimis — The Section 321 De Minimis provision continued to be at the forefront of congressional scrutiny and hearings, with both Democrats and Republicans weighing in with concerns on this legal provision in U.S. trade law.

The impact of this loophole is devastating, facilitating nearly 4 mil-lion imported shipments a day that may contain goods made with forced labor, counterfeits, toxic products, and illicit narcotics such as fentanyl.

NCTO leaders held several meetings with lawmakers and the administration and testified at a key congressional hearing and a roundtable, amplifying the critical need to close this loophole that is hurting our members and giving China a duty-free backdoor to our market. We worked with allies like Rep. Dan Bishop who held two hearings drawing attention to de minimis and how it makes policing the UFLPA impossible. NCTO and our industry is leading the way to close this loophole.

In addition, several members of Congress weighed in with letters to President Biden to close this loophole, including a joint letter from Senators Sherrod Brown (D-Ohio) and Rick Scott (R-Fla.), a separate letter led by Senator Sheldon Whitehouse (D-R.I.), and a letter led by Representative Rosa DeLauro (D-Conn.)

Three bills were introduced in 2023 — including bills from Senator Brown and Representative Earl Blu-menauer (D-Ore.) — to combat de minimis abuse.

In February of this year, NCTO worked to build a coalition of diverse stakeholders to launch the Coalition to Close the De Minimis Loophole, representing thousands of voices from the families of victims of fentanyl fatalities and nonprofit and nonpartisan organizations to labor unions, domestic law enforcement associations, domestic manufacturers and business associations.

Several coalition members participated in a press conference with Representative Blumenauer and other congressional members to elevate the issue, which was covered by several news outlets and have sent numerous communications to the Hill.

There are numerous other issues requiring NCTO’s focus and resources, such as advocating for full enforcement of the Make PPE in America Act, amplifying support for the Section 301 case against China’s intellectual property abuses, promoting tariffs on finished products, and the need to pass a new Miscellaneous Tariff Bill with immediate and full retroactivity.
Due to time constraints, I cannot delve into all these important issues. But please know that without exception, NCTO is highly engaged on every policy matter that affects the U.S. textile industry with the intent of shaping policy determinations in a manner that directly benefits U.S. textile investment, production and workforce.

Industry leadership and involvement is of paramount importance. From contributions to NCTO’s TextilePAC to arranging congressional visits, the industry can make a difference and help raise the level of awareness about its importance to the overall U.S. economy and workforce, and to the local and state economies it supports.

Conclusion

The business environment for the year ahead will continue to be rife with challenges for our industry and likely will lead to additional plant closures and layoffs, which we have already seen in the first quarter of 2024. But I remain cautiously optimistic for the following reason: NCTO’s strong advocacy on behalf of the industry in helping institute policies that support our industry, reform ill-conceived policies, and fend off challenges to our strong free trade agreement rules.

In 2024, we will continue to engage with Congress and the administration on critical policy issues impacting our industry and I am confident we will achieve positive policy wins for this industry as a unified voice in Washington.

We will continue to work in conjunction with our Western Hemisphere trading partners and capitalize on the onshoring and nearshoring trends that we are seeing and strengthen our co-production chain, investment and employment.

That concludes my formal remarks.

On a personal note, I have been honored to serve as chairman of a highly effective organization and dedicated staff and I know I hand it over to our new chairman who is well positioned to navigate the headwinds and trade battles.

I truly am optimistic about the innovative strength of the industry and its resilience to economic and trade challenges. With the support of this effective trade and lobbying organization in Washington, we can over-come unforeseen challenges and continue to cement our position as an integral sector to the U.S. economy and the Western Hemisphere.

References:
1 U.S. Census Bureau Manufacturers’ Shipments, Inventories and Orders (M3) Survey, and Annual Survey of Manufacturers (ASM) value of shipments for NAICS 313, 314, 315 & 32522, 2021 data used to estimate NAICS 32522 figure.

2 U.S. Department of Commerce data for Export Group
0: Textiles and Apparel

3 U.S. Census Bureau, Annual Capital Expenditures Survey (ACES), NAICS 313, 314 & 315

Editor’s Notes: Norman Chapman is president and CEO of Inman, S.C.-based Inman Mills. He served as the 2023 NCTO chairman. At the annual meeting in Washington, Charles Heilig, president of Gastonia, N.C.-based Parkdale Mills, succeeded Chapman as NCTO chairman; and Chuck Hall, president and CEO of Spartanburg, S.C.-based Barnet, was elected vice chairman.

The North American Industry Classifica-tion System (NAICS) is the standard used by Federal statistical agencies in classifying business establishments for the purpose of collecting, analyzing, and publishing statistical data related to the U.S. business economy. NAICS Subsector 313 covers Textile Mills, sub-sector 314 covers Textile Product Mills and subsector 315 covers Apparel.

2024 Quarterly Volume III

Raleigh Homecoming

Techtextil North America settles into its new schedule with the next edition taking place in Raleigh, N.C., in August.

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After back-to-back years in Atlanta, Messe Frankfurt’s Techtextil North America (TTNA) trade show has settled into its new schedule with the non-Atlanta show now happening in even years.

The 2024 edition of the event — a show dedicated to the technical textiles and nonwovens industries — will take place at the Raleigh Convention Center, August 20-22, 2024.

“We are thrilled to be getting back to Raleigh, after a three-and-a-half-year gap due to the show schedule shift,” stated Kristy Meade, vice president, Technical Shows, Atlanta-based Messe Frankfurt. “Techtextil North America Raleigh feels like a homecoming with NC State as our official academic partner and so much of the industry, both exhibitors and attendees, alums of the area.”

Show Floor Organization

As always, exhibits will be categorized using 12 application areas: Agrotech; Buildtech; Clothtech; Geotech; Hometech; Indutech; Medtech; Mobiltech; Oekotech; Packtech; Protech; and Sporttech. This arrangement helps visitors find the products and services they are interested in based on product application.

Exhibitors from Germany will share their latest innovations on the German Pavilion located in the center of the show floor.

New in 2024 is the History of Textiles Museum, which is presented by North Carolina State University. Exhibit areas located throughout the show floor will focus on the history of the industry from early pieces of machinery up to present day innovations including automation.

Learning Opportunities

Techtextil North America 2024 will host a symposium, as well as Tech Talks and Student Research Poster Program on the show floor.

The Techtextil North America Symposium is dedicated to showcasing advancements in research and technology for the textile industry, highlighting the latest trends and innovations, with a focus on sustain-able textile practices. Sessions will take place all three days of the show. Symposium topics this year include:

  • Smart Threads and Healing Fibers:
  • Navigating the Intersection of Wearable Technology, Medical Textiles and Legal Compliance;
  • Department of Defense Trend Forecast;
  • Real World Circularity: Stitching a Sustainable Future in the Textile Industry; and
  • Durable Water Repellency: Balancing Performance and Sustainability (See Schedule Highlights sidebar).

Tech Talks will take place on the show floor. These sessions are free for all show attendees and center on solution-oriented discussions about new technologies, hot button issues and more.

A complete list of symposium and Tech Talk titles and speakers will be available on the Techtextil North America show website prior to the event. All event information, including any last-minute changes or updates, also will be located on the Techtextil North America 2024 mobile app, which will be ready to download later this summer.

A mainstay feature, the Student Research Poster Program, also is a must-see show floor exhibit featuring both undergraduate and graduate level research and textile innovations. Students from around the globe have the opportunity to share their research findings with visitors by way of the poster program.

2024 Techtextil North America Innovation Awards

During the 2024 edition of the show, organizers will present the Techtextil Innovation Awards to deserving entries submitted in advance and chosen by a jury of industry experts. According to Messe Frankfurt, the award: “ … reflects the innovative content of the Techtextil North America trade fair as well as the future-oriented products of the exhibitors. It honors cutting-edge developments that foster new and unconventional ideas and visions and supports cross-industry dialogue among researchers, manufacturers and users.”

An award ceremony will take place on Wednesday, August 21, at noon on the Tech Talks Special Fea-ture Stage located in booth 1033.

Visitor Information

On the opening night of the show, all attendees can participate in the Opening Night Reception, which will be held at the Dorothy and Roy Park Alumni Center on the NC State campus from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. The reception requires a ticket for entry, which is included with the full experience pass or may be purchased separately as an add-on.

Visitors to Techtextil North America can register to attend and purchase exhibit hall badges, symposium passes and reception tickets in advance online. Tickets may also be purchased in person on show days, but advance registration is suggested in order to expedite the entrance process.

The show floor is open Tuesday, August 20, and Wednesday, August 21 from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. On Thurs-day, August 22, the show floor is open from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Visit To Network, Learn

The show floor will be smaller and cozier than the average Atlanta show, but the sense of community, opportunity to interact with colleagues, and chance to stumble upon new and interesting technologies remains the same as always.

“This year we have a focus on Integrating Technology and attendees will have opportunity to see the latest from technical suppliers from across the globe, highlighted by the Innovation Awards and Student Research Program, as well as learn from an engaging line-up of speakers in the Symposium and the on-floor Tech Talks,” Meade noted. “We are confident that the 2024 edition is sure to be THE meeting point for the industry.”

For more information about Techtextil North America 2024 and to register, visit techtextilna.com.

2024 Quarterly Volume III

AT Expo: Striking The West Coast

The next edition of the Advanced Textiles Association’s AT Expo takes place in Anaheim this September.

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After multiple iterations held in east coast cities, the Advanced Textiles Association (ATA) is taking its Advanced Textiles (AT) Expo to the west coast for the 2024 edition. The expo will take place at the Anaheim Convention Center in Anaheim, Calif. Education sessions begin on September 23 and the show floor is open September 24-26, 2024.

“ATA is excited to host the textile industry at Advanced Textiles Expo in Anaheim, California, September 24-26,” said Steve Schiffman, ATA president and CEO. “Being in California allows us to reach new people that may not travel to the east coast. Advanced Textiles Expo continues to bring thousands of textiles professionals who serve many markets together for education, networking, and an exhibit floor full of textiles/materials, new innovations, and equipment.

“This year’s show has several new features including the Next Gen(eration) Takeover Day, the Tex-tiles Challenge, programming on specialty textiles, shade and weather and emerging technologies.”

What To Expect

The show will again be collocated with Messe Stuttgart’s Sun Shading Expo North America, which will be held September 24-26, 2024. According to ATA, the collocation of the events for these two complementary industries offers value in terms of connecting with customers, suppliers, end-product manufacturers, and industry counterparts, as well as providing growth opportunities. Attendees have access to both events including the combined show floor, show floor education and networking receptions. The only exceptions are AT Expo’s conference, which is only open to AT Expo registrants; and Sun Shading Expo classroom education, which is only open to Sun Shading Expo registrants.

The show floor will feature the ATA Hub, which is a great place to learn more about ATA or join a member division open meeting. Also on the show floor, ATA announced the return of a pet rescue fundraising booth, as well as the Demo Booth —a hands-on educational space for makers and materials suppliers.

The optional add-on AT Expo Annual Fun Run/Walk will take place Wednesday morning, September 25, at 6 a.m. Participants will meet at the Hilton Anaheim and be led by experienced locals on a walk or run through Anaheim. Runners can choose a pace group and distance —1 mile or 5 kilometers. Proceeds benefit the Work Ethic Scholarship Fund.

New Features

ATA has planned several new features for attendees at the upcoming expo. The Next Gen(eration) Takeover Day is Wednesday, September 25. At 10 a.m., a hands-on LEGO™ net-working workshop will take place on the show floor. Designed to foster new connections and teach industry concepts, teams will collaborate to build Lego models that represent key elements of the industry. Later that afternoon, from 12:30-2:30 p.m., The NextGen Textiles Meet-up will take place. This fun activity begins with participants building a Lego avatar to represent their personal style. Afterwards, fast-paced networking rounds will give participants the chance to meet new people and mingle with industry influencers.

The Textiles Challenge, another new show feature, is a skill-testing, hands-on activity featuring — as the name suggests — textile challenges. Preview and practice rounds will take place on Tuesday, September 24, with qualifying rounds and the final round taking place on Wednesday.

On Thursday, ATA is giving women a chance to connect before the show floor opens. Interested attendees should gather at the Hilton Anaheim at 7 a.m. for the Women’s Networking Walk. Following the walk, women can participate in a leadership session titled “Balancing Priorities for Success” at 9:30 a.m. The session begins with a keynote followed by a panel discussion featuring industry leaders who will share their perspectives and advice. Wrapping up the event is a development session on strategies for establishing boundaries and setting priorities to obtain a work/life balance.

Nighttime Fun

To kick things off, the Professional Awning Manufacturers Association (PAMA) is hosting the Awning Pub Night at Bowlero Anaheim on Monday, September 23 at 5 p.m. RSVP’s are required by August 26.

On Tuesday, September 24, AT Expo will host the official opening reception at 4 p.m. The reception is included with all registration types to give all participants the chance to mix and mingle to wrap up the first full day.

Those who opt to purchase a separate ticket when registering can move from the opening reception to Industry Night, which this year will be held at the Anaheim House of Blues starting at 7 p.m. As always, live music will be provided by ATA member band Hangin’ by a Thread.

Education

The one-and-a-half day Emerging Technologies Conference begins with a full day of presentations on Monday, September 23, and an Emerging Technologies Networking Reception at the close of the sessions. On Tuesday, additional sessions will be held in the morning. Topics will cover a variety of subjects from healthcare and electronic textiles to green chemistry and testing. A full lineup of speakers and topics is available on the AT Expo website.

Education continues on the Emerging Technologies show floor stage beginning Tuesday afternoon. These more informal, 30-minute sessions are designed to be interactive and digestible.

For more information about Advanced Textiles Expo — including the full conference schedule with speakers — as well as to register, please visit advancedtextiles expo.com.

2024 Quarterly Volume III

SAMPE: Much More Than Just A Conference

The materials and process engineering conference recently convened in Long Beach, Calif., for its 2024 edition.

By Jim Kaufmann, Technical Editor

The Society for the Advancement of Material and Process Engineering (SAMPE) held its annual conference and exhibition, SAMPE 2024, in Long Beach, Calif., recently. However, unlike other trade shows and conventions, a SAMPE event really does have the feel of a large family reunion or maybe a college alumni event. Truth be told, as an organization focused mainly on materials and process engineering, SAMPE events tend to take on a different look and feel than a typical textile conference. Part of this difference comes from the fact that SAMPE is a global, member-driven organization with regional chapters throughout North America, as well as other global geographic locations. In North America alone, there are 23 regional member chapters and currently 49 different student chapters at colleges and universities. A list of global, regional and student chapters can be found on SAMPE’s website, sampe.org.

Many SAMPE event participants— either exhibitor, conference speakers or general attendees —have been a SAMPE member since their days as a college or university student — which for some of us translates into a lot of years. That level of familiarity creates a different type of energy or synergy, almost like a homecoming at these events, and this year was no exception.

In general, a SAMPE conference and exhibition focuses more on the technical and engineering aspects of materials, and as such, the material focus has evolved more towards composites and fiber reinforced plastics segments. The aerospace industry abounds as a starting point for many discussions as its testing, evaluation and acceptance of new materials and processes often sets the standards for other industries and applications to follow. The majority of discussions certainly have a business intent, but the bulk of those conversations center more around performance attributes. Conference programs tend to focus on technical concepts, new or advanced processes and problem solving, while CAMX, JEC and other events tend to focus more on product introductions and increasing sales. As such, SAMPE events are generally smaller than CAMX, and certainly the JEC trade fairs, but unquestionably still remain viable and worthy of participation.

This year’s SAMPE event drew more than 200 exhibitors and 2,700 visitors.

“In my opinion, SAMPE was a function of quality over quantity,” stated Eric Smith, vice president of sales and marketing for Re:Build Manufacturing based in Framingham, Mass. “This location [Long Beach] continues to prove itself to be one of the flagship locations for this event given its proximity to aerospace, defense and composites companies and contractors. The SAMPE staff’s engagement and coordination was instrumental in the success of the show.”

“SAMPE shows are always a good opportunity to see and interact with industry colleagues,” offered Judy Johnson, business development manager for carbon fiber manufacturer Hyosung Advanced Materials. “This year’s show had plenty of traffic in the exhibit hall where good discussions ensued.”

One inspiring observation made during this year’s SAMPE conference and exhibition was the number of younger people in attendance. It is nice to see SAMPE’s emphasis on getting young people involved in engineering pursuits, which starts with the student chapters at the colleges and universities. These student chapters not only provide the name recognition, but also prompt students to get involved in a number of different ways while learning at the same time. At SAMPE 2024, there were student poster sessions on a variety of topics that received awards, as well as awards for technical papers, which in many cases featured student input.

Keynote speaker Stephen Heinz, vice president of Research and Innovation at Belgium-based Syensqo Corp., stopped at one point during his presentation to ask the students in the audience to stand. Heinz then suggested that the students and professionals in the audience introduce themselves and encouraged each to not only make an impact on the industry, but perhaps each other’s professional career as well. Several networking events were held throughout the event for the young professionals that also promoted diversity, equality and inclusion in all facets of the event and their professional lives throughout the industry.

SAMPE has always featured student competitions and this year was no exception. This year’s events included additive manufacturing, building a fuselage, and the tried-and-true building a bridge contest that featured several different structural categories. Student groups organized, designed and built prototypes that were brought to SAMPE and physically tested on the show floor throughout the day. What other trade show allows attendees to watch tests of scaled fuselage or bridge segments while student engineers and others in the crowd cheer teams on or groan at a premature failure?

SAMPE student chapters in many cases are supported by the SAMPE regional chapters, which through sponsorships and fundraisers, can provide travel funds or assistance making it easier for the students to attend SAMPE events. Many regional chapters also establish student scholarships to help pay a portion of the student’s education and housing costs.

Regional SAMPE chapters hold their own events to generate income, promote networking and other social activities geared at building camaraderie, the chapter’s presence and professional community standing. A fine example of this occurred during this year’s Long Beach event as the Carolinas Chapter hosted a farewell party for Tom Haulik, the recently retired director of carbon fiber sales for Hexcel Corp., Stamford, Conn. Haulik didn’t invent carbon fiber, but he certainly has been instrumental in selling it over the years. His presence and standing in the composites industry were confirmed by the many attendees who came to thank him for all his friendship, support and guidance throughout a distinguished career. In a fitting tribute, Haulik was named the Honorary Lifetime Ambassador of SAMPE’s Carolinas Chapter.

Next year’s SAMPE 2025 Conference is slated for May 19-22, 2025, in Indianapolis, Ind. But also remember to check out and support your local SAMPE chapter’s upcoming events. Along with the national events, these local chapter happenings provide excellent opportunities to network, talk business and occasionally have a bit of fun. Hope to see you there!

2024 Quarterly Volume III

Technical Textiles And Processing Technologies On Display

Techtextil opened with a panel discussion on opportunities presented by artificial intelligence.
(Image courtesy of Messe Frankfurt/Thomas Fedra)

The recent Techtextil and Texprocess shows in Frankfurt, Germany, showcased the best of the industry in a one-stop-shop environment.

By Jim Kaufmann, Technical Editor

Techtextil, the biennial trade fair organized by Messe Frankfurt in Frankfurt, Germany, is considered to be the granddaddy of global trade events focused on the technical textiles industry. Collocated with Texprocess — a sister show focused on processing textiles and flexible materials — it is considered a significant and important industry event for the global exhibitors and visitors who participate. For readers who haven’t been, this big brother to Techtextil North America, also organized by Messe Frankfurt, is akin to one spending a couple of days at the largest shopping mall in North America, the Mall of America. There, one can find a store and shop for pretty much any consumer good imaginable. In a similar fashion, between Techtextil and Texprocess, virtually every aspect of the technical, industrial and performance textiles marketplace and supply chain is to be found in Frankfurt.

This year’s combined Techtextil and Texprocess hosted more than 1,700 exhibitors from 53 different countries. During the four-day event these exhibitors greeted more than 38,000 visitors from 102 different countries. “I felt it was very well attended and the quality of visitors was exceptional,” offered Torry Losch, chief commercial officer, Hailide America Inc., a polyester and tire cord manufacturer based in Alpharetta, Ga. “All visitors to our booth were high-quality customers, or potential customers, who fit well within our target markets. Well worth the trip, and I look forward to the next one in two years!”

“For us Techtextil was very good,” added Will Motchar, president and CEO of Navis TubeTex, a finishing machinery manufacturer based in Lexington, N.C. “A lot of potential projects were discussed with current and new customers around our finishing technologies that offer significant energy, water, and chemical savings.”

In general terms, Techtextil encompasses all aspects involved in developing, producing and/or enhancing an input material or textile, while Texprocess focuses on taking that input textile or material and assembling it into a product. Having Techtextil and Texprocess under one umbrella event allows visitors in many cases the opportunity to seek out every aspect of the industry’s supply chain from raw material development and manufacturing to that raw material evolving into a textile, potentially adding a performance enhancement of some sort, and then exploring the technologies necessary to assemble that textile into an end product like a piece of clothing, running shoe, automotive airbag, personal protective equipment, composite structure or any of thousands of other products.

Having Techtextil and Texprocess together in one space also allows for unique synergies via the intermingling of technologies and varied mindsets throughout the different segments in the exhibit halls. For example, a fashion designer can interact with all components of their existing supply chain, and also venture into other segments of either the textile or processing sides to gain inspiration from a completely different sector that they may not interact with during their usual daily tasks. It really can’t be stressed enough how important these unexpected synergies continue to lead to innovations throughout all aspects of the industry.

As with most recent trade fairs, two primary overriding themes were prevalent throughout both Techtextil and Texprocess exhibitors; the continuous incremental and occasionally step-change improvements being made throughout all aspects of product functionality and the continued global importance and commitment to product and corporate sustainability, recycling and circularity.

20 Years Of Techtextil

This year’s Techtextil marked an anniversary as it was the 20th edition of the show. The first event, held in 1986, was a much smaller affair than today’s large-scale extravaganza, but some of the exhibitors who were at that first fair still participate in Techtextil almost 40 years later. Organizers honored those founding companies with a plaque and bottle of champagne as a thank you during a special ceremony on the second day of the fair. According to Messe Frankfurt: “Their commitment and passion have made Techtextil what it is today: a beacon of innovation and a meeting place for industry experts.”

The “Regenerative? Moving Beyond Sustainability” showcase introduced Techtextil visitors to a variety of homegrown, natural fiber products and unique biomaterials.

With the industry’s overall focus on sustainability, there was a notable increase in the number of exhibitors showing performance materials incorporating natural fibers at Techtextil. President Clare King and Product Design and Development Lead Birgit Leitner with Propel LLC, a product innovation company based in Providence, R.I., spoke about the changing times and also found inspiration during Techtextil. “We were last at Techtextil in 2019, prior to COVID and there found a high level of focus around e-textiles which were highly represented back then,” Leitner said. “What stood out to us this year, was the shift from e-textiles to a very strong focus on sustainability. Both large and small companies have embraced this trend, showcasing innovations in sustainable materials, eco-friendly production processes and circular economy solutions.” The women noted that the “Sustainability@Techtextil” label allowed visitors to easily identify these companies. They also found the curated section titled “Regenerative? Moving Beyond Sustainability” incorporating key-words such as “Cultivating Localism,” “Enriching Communities,” “Replenishing the Land,” “Radical Transparency,” “Naturally Abundant,” “Biological Fabrication,” “Preserving Heritage,” and “Restoring Biodiversity” interesting and rather inspiring.

A few companies focused on natural products that Leitner and King mentioned were:

  • Kombinat Konopny, a Poland-based vertically integrated hemp company;
  • Lavalan®/Baur Vliesstoffe GmbH, a Germany-based company focused on increasing awareness of homegrown wool and it’s many performance-based uses;
  • Studio Sarmite, a research and design studio in Frankfurt focused on creating closed-loop concepts through transforming industry waste and its byproducts; and
  • Malai Eco, an India and Slovakia-based company that is developing flexible, biocomposite materials made from organic bacterial cellulose grown on agricultural waste sourced from the coconut industry in Southern India, which have a feel comparable to leather and paper.

In addition, one couldn’t help but notice the growing focus on “better living through chemistry.” New technologies observed centered around chemistries that can turn polymers into biodegradable forms, generate natural fibers, enhance processing and processability of combined materials, improve colors and color fastness, impart specific performance characteristics, among other attributes.

Texprocess

Not to be outdone, Texprocess showcased innovative processing technologies targeting the cut, sew and converting industries. Artificial intelligence (AI) was featured prominently in a number of areas. AI is now being employed in a number of ways to improve cutting room layouts and nesting efficiencies, aid in the use of raw materials and energy consumption, catalogue assorted samples and physical parameters that can then be used for quality refinements, just to name a few applications. Innovative machine designs, enhancements, tooling and technologies including robotics are being employed in order to improve efficiencies as well as allowing these facilities to be able to do more with less numbers of human labor requirements. This is not necessarily to reduce headcounts as some may fear, but more an answer to the lack of qualified and skilled workers in many of these areas.

Frank Henderson, president and CEO of Henderson Sewing Machine Co., a sewing industry equipment supplier based in Andalusia, Ala., felt that: “Texprocess was a good setting that provided industry leaders highlights into the state-of-the-art design, cutting, sewing and manufacturing possibilities in this vital, global textile supply chain. Techtextil once again demonstrated the technical textile industry’s innovations and advances in automation, digitization and creativity while once again illustrating its continuing importance to the global economy!”

Techtextil North America will also take place this year, in Raleigh, N.C. (See “Raleigh Homecoming,” TW, this issue). The next Techtextil/Texprocess trade fair will be held April 21-24, 2026, in Frankfurt. A trade fair well worth the effort to attend!

2024 Quarterly Volume III

SYFA Conference Covers A Wide Variety Of Topics

The SYFA recently held its spring conference in Charlotte, N.C., under the theme “Creativity, The Economy and Policy In 2024.”

TW Special Report

The Charlotte, N.C.-based Synthetic Yarn and Fabrics Association (SYFA) recently held its annual spring conference at the Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel in Charlotte.

The conference, entitled “Creativity, The Economy and Policy In 2024,” covered topics on the economy, technical fiber developments and trade.

Outgoing SYFA President Hardy Sullivan of Thies Corp. opened the event with a review of recent SYFA activities. The association also conducted a business meeting where it installed new President Meredith Boyd of Unifi Inc., as well as new board members (See sidebar).

On behalf of the membership, SYFA Secretary and Treasurer Alasdair Carmichael thanked Sullivan for his service to the organization, particularly during the celebration of its 50th anniversary, which occurred during his tenure.

A Variety Of Presentations

The event’s first speaker was Piedmont Crescent Capital’s Mark Vitner, whose “Economic Update” presentation reviewed the economic climate the industry is facing. Vitner, a well-known economist in U.S. textile circles, was realistic about the economic challenges facing textiles and the challenges of a global environment in a post-pandemic election year.

Andrew Talarico and Taylor Greene from Circ Inc. in Danville, Va., discussed the challenges of developing a circular product lifecycle that captures and recycles textile waste throughout the supply chain and at garments end-of-life in their presentation named “Addressing Textile Waste — a Blueprint for an Industry Wide Shift.”

Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi, The Nonwovens Institute (NWI), offered a presentation on designing polylactic acid (PLA) blends titled “Promising Materials Development Using PLA.” He noted that for this sustainable fiber to be an option in nonwovens, there needs to be an emphasis on elongation properties that enhance performance.

Fibers That Promote Health

With “The Future of Health and Wellness is…,” Jordan Schindler, C2 Clothing 2.0, discussed developments in using textiles for controlled delivery of therapeutics, as well as the bright horizon for new product development beyond what is currently available in the marketplace.

“Neolast™ Stretch Fiber from Celanese” was presented by Celanese’s Rick Tobar. This new polyester development offers elastane-like stretch characteristics and performance, while mitigating elastane’s sustainability issues (See “Quality Fabric: NEOLAST™: A New Way To Stretch,” TW, this issue).

Jasmine Cox offered a “Textile Technology Center Overview” of Gaston College, highlighting the Textile Technology Center’s focus on training and newly created in-depth programs that were developed to support manufacturing.

SYFA board member Bart Krulic, Palmetto Synthetics LLC, explored opportunities offered in synthetic fiber development in a presentation titled “For Staple Fibers…What if?” Krulic focused on product development and innovation by considering the “what if?” idea of creating performance fibers using an array of polymers.

Michael Hubbard of the Economic Development Partnership of North Carolina (EDPNC), presented “Opportunities in International Markets.” Hubbard, well-known for his long history with the industry, offered companies a look at unlocking new opportunities by exporting their products. He also introduced new EDPNC hire Jeri Barutis, highlighting her expertise in trade and textiles.

The final presentation of the conference was delivered by Pete Mento with DSV Air and Sea Inc. His discussion, titled “Shifting Economic & Geopolitical Issues Continue to Create Challenges for Supply Chains,” was dynamic and his background in standup comedy certainly helped him engage the crowd on less-than-exciting economic issues.

Conference sponsors included Diamond Sponsor Premier Fibers Inc.; Gold Sponsor Jomar Softcorp International Inc.; Silver Sponsors Goulston Technologies Inc., Pulcra Chemicals LLC and Unifi Inc.; Bronze Sponsors Burlington and DAK Americas LLC; and Patrons Milliken & Company and Polyspintex Inc. Gaston College Foundation also hosted an exhibit table at the conference.

1 of 12
Economist Mark Vitner
Alasdair Carmichael, NAPCOR
Andrew Talarico, Circ Inc.
Taylor Greene, Circ Inc.
Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi, The Nonwovens Institute
Jordan Schindler, C2 Clothing 2.0
Rick Tobar, Celanese
Jasmine Cox, Textile Technology Center
Bart Krulic, Palmetto Synthetics
Mike Hubbard, Economic Development Partnership of North Carolina (EDPNC)
Pete Mento, DSV Air and Sea Inc.
Meredith Boyd, Unifi

A Forward Focus

Closing remarks were given by newly instated SYFA President Boyd. She has been an active member of SYFA for many years, and a generosity and willingness to share her knowledge and experience of the fiber industry have always been a great asset to SYFA.

SYFA will hold its fall conference October 24-25, 2024, at the Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel.

2024 Quarterly Volume III

Big Win For Sustainability And Performance: Gold Long John Adopts PFAS-Free EMPEL® Finish

ALBUQUERQUE, N.M. — July 18, 2024 — In a big win for global sustainability and footwear performance initiatives, Gold Long John, the world’s leading innovative supplier of fabric to global footwear brands is applying EMPEL® Nø-Wick™ waterless and PFAS-free finishing platform in its Vietnam mill supply chain.

The EMPEL Nø-Wick product stands apart by preventing wicking more effectively than any competing chemistry while remaining 100-percent water-free and PFAS-free. The adoption by top footwear fabric supplier Gold Long John is instrumental in creating sustainable, high performing footwear for many leading footwear brands around the world.

“Our Oeko Tex-certified EMPEL platform is a solution for the future,” said Martin Flora, president of Global Business Development with GTT. “It creates the highest performing finishes available, all without the use of water or PFAS chemicals.  Gold Long John was our first major footwear mill adopter in Asia and has been instrumental in providing the commercial readiness needed for major footwear brands to easily adopt EMPEL Nø-Wick.  Because of their contribution and input, we’re now able to scale our clean chemistry throughout SE Asia and make a real difference in the fight against water, carbon and chemical pollution, all while providing the world’s best performance.”

Gold Long John is known as a market leader and innovator in the production of performance footwear fabrics and was the first major footwear mill that helped GTT commercialize EMPEL. In 2023, Gold Long John installed the EMPEL proprietary production machinery in its Vietnam factory and is now moving forward with plans to install machinery in its Taiwan facility. The proprietary machinery changes the way in which anti-wicking chemistries are molecularly bonded to footwear, protecting them from inclement weather.

“Green Theme and their EMPEL products will help us stay at the forefront of global sustainability solutions, allowing us to supply our footwear brands with highly innovative, cleaner, better performing materials for their products,” said Kevin Wen, president of Gold Long John. “We see this as a win for us, for our partner brands, and for global environmental sustainability efforts.”

EMPEL Nø-Wick challenges the market perception that cleaner manufacturing processes mean loss of performance. The opposite is true, as efficient manufacturing performs better, reduces waste, and lasts longer. The benefits are obvious.

Posted: July 18, 2024

Source: Green Theme Technologies, Inc. (GTT)

Preparing For The EU’s Digital Product Passport: A New Mandate For Sustainability

The EU’s Digital Product Passport (DPP) initiative will accelerate the transition to a global circular economy.

Impacted companies need to start thinking about technology strategies in order to comply with the coming EU Digital Product Passport mandate.

By Megan Brewster

Set to impact any company worldwide that sells products in the European Union, the fast-approaching Digital Product Passport (DPP) mandate is a first-of-its-kind regulatory framework designed to create transparency around product information and accelerate the transition to a circular economy.

Under the new DPP regulations, most end-use and intermediate products sold in the European Union will require a DPP by 2030. The DPP is a type of virtual label with information about a product’s origin, materials used, manufacturing processes, recyclability and more. By providing details about a product’s journey and environmental impact, the goal is for DPPs to empower consumers to make more informed purchasing decisions and pave the way for a greener, more ethical future. This foundational framework is expected to become the information backbone of the global circular economy.

Any company that sells products in the European Union will be impacted by the new DPP regulations, including U.S. companies, which exported more than $350 billion in goods to the European Union in 2022 alone. However, even with the best intentions, many of these companies lack access to the information across their supply chain that is required by this legislation. While mandates directly impacting manufacturers and retailers are still a few years out, it is important to start preparing now to stay ahead of the regulatory curve.

What Is A Digital Product Passport?

A DPP is a digital record containing key information related to a product’s composition, origin and lifecycle. Under the forthcoming legislation, companies selling products in Europe will need to collect and share detailed data on an item’s verified sustainability attributes via DPP, including information about the materials used, manufacturing processes and recyclability. Most products sold in the European Union, from tires and building supplies to clothing and laundry detergent, will require this attached identifier.

To understand the DPP legislation, it’s important to understand the broader regulatory framework that underpins it. The EU Green Deal, set forth by the European Commission in 2020, is aimed at reducing emissions by 55 percent and making the European Union climate neutral by 2050. As part of this deal, the commission brought forth the Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). Set to reshape the way products are manufactured, distributed, and reintegrated into a circular economy, the ESPR is a broader framework, delegating the responsibility for establishing granular rules to future regulation through delegated acts. While some delegated acts are set to focus on specific product categories, others will expand on technical and operational elements, such as rules around DPPs.

Verified product data accompanies the product throughout its lifecycle.

Who Will Be Impacted Under DPP Legislation?

In this new regulatory landscape, the responsibility for ensuring compliance with DPPs extends beyond the borders of the European Union. Not only will finished products sold in the European Union need to adhere to DPP regulations, but also any components, materials, or semi-finished goods involved in their production, regardless of their origin.

This will dramatically reshape global value chains, necessitating suppliers and manufacturers worldwide to gather and submit the DPP data for their products destined for the European market.

While specific data likely will vary by product category, product sellers will be required to report on the following under DPP legislation:

  • Potential for repair, maintenance, refurbishment and upgrades;
  • Presence of harmful substances;
  • Resource consumption or efficiency;
  • Recycled materials content;
  • Reusability, remanufacturing and recycling potential;
  • Environmental impacts, including carbon footprint; and
  • Anticipated waste generation.

As identified by the European Commission, several priority categories — for both finished end-use products and intermediate materials and components — are among the first required to create DPPs for goods produced. These priorities include sellers of batteries, textiles — garments and footwear — iron and steel, aluminum, furniture — including mattresses — tires, detergents, paints, lubricants, chemicals, and electronics. The commission also has stated that it maintains the power to extend the list of currently prioritized categories in the future to include products such as toys, cars and construction-related materials.

Among those set to be the most impacted by the mandate in its earliest stages of rollout are textile and apparel companies, retailers and manufacturers. A study by the Panel for the Future of Science and Technology (STOA) — a group of Members of the European Parliament — surveyed more than 80 stakeholders to examine the benefits and challenges of DPP deployment within the textile industry. The textile and fashion sectors already face a number of critical challenges including negative impacts on natural resources as a result of fast-fashion, shortages of raw material, rising labor, energy, and water costs, as well as controversies surrounding practices within the textile industry. Against the backdrop of these challenges, the STOA study examined where DPPs will drive the most value in the industry.

STOA found that the consensus among surveyed stakeholders is that DPPs are a positive step towards sustainable product lifecycle management and increasing the circularity of textiles in the European market, and beyond. However, the study also found significant challenges among respondents regarding deployment. Among the top challenges reported in making the DPP feasible within the textile industry are ensuring access for all stakeholders of circularity, including companies that do not have the complex technologies necessary to digitize their supply chains. In addition to costs, data security, and potential impacts on global supply chains and businesses, the need for harmonization of regulations, market surveillance and traceability also were reported concerns. These challenges highlight the need for a unified framework and technical standards to help companies navigating the new DPP mandate.

RAIN RFID allows companies to instantly access a product’s full digital record by linking to its digital twin in the cloud.

Meeting Compliance Requirements Using RAIN RFID

Alongside reporting requirements, the DPP framework sets out technical standards regarding how data should be presented and managed. To provide this DPP information, a physical “data carrier” must be attached to products. This data carrier — potentially taking the form of a QR code; a battery-free, wireless RAIN radio frequency identification (RFID) tag; or another identifier —will link the physical product to its digital twin in the cloud, giving brands and consumers full visibility into data regarding materials used, ownership history, and instructions on recycling or proper disposal.

RAIN RFID, a passive, battery-free wireless technology that relies on radio frequency identification to connect items directly to the internet, is a strong candidate to be part of a DPP compliance solution. The technology already is widely used by retailers and logistics companies for inventory management, product authentication, shipment verification and more. This “wireless barcode” connects to detailed information regarding the specific model, batch, and individual unit through a machine-readable format that can be both maintained and easily updated.

Combined with QR codes, RAIN RFID tags would provide a secure, consumer-friendly approach for companies to meet critical requirements under the DPP legislation today. RAIN RFID systems enable businesses to identify, locate, authenticate, and engage with every product tagged with a RAIN RFID tag providing real-time insights. Alongside compliance requirements, companies gain additional benefits from the adoption of RAIN RFID into their everyday operations. Offering item-level tracking throughout the full supply chain, RAIN RFID deployment is already helping businesses to solve their most forefront challenges including counterfeiting, inventory management and overstocks. The technology is also helping businesses modernize operations, supporting circular business models, and driving sustainability initiatives, which will ensure businesses meet the fast-approaching guidelines under the European Union’s DPP mandate. With RAIN RFID readers designed to be embedded in a variety of forms — including small, hand-held form factors — it’s not hard to envision a not-too-distant future where consumers also are able to read RAIN RFID tags using their smartphone, meaning anyone can read the information embedded on tagged products’ DPPs.

Next Steps Ahead Of The Rollout Of The DPP

With the first DPP deadline approaching in July 2024, it is crucial for impacted parties to begin preparing to stay ahead of the regulatory curve. The Ecodesign for Sustainable Products (ESPR) legislation — which creates a framework for DPPs — is planned to be ratified into EU law in July 2024. Following this, in December 2025, European standards organizations CEN/CLC/JTC24 will deliver harmonized standards for the DPP system. Two key dates in 2026 include the publication of the delegated act for textiles — in January — and iron and steel products — in April. These dates start the clock for respective compliance deadlines 18 months later, mandating a DPP for all products in these categories sold in the European Union — July 2027 for textiles and October 2027 for iron and steel products. In February 2027, the Battery Passport regulation is set to take effect, requiring a DPP for all transport, industrial, and electric vehicle batteries placed on the EU market.

Positioned to redefine industry standards, the rollout of the DPP over the next three years will improve transparency and accountability into the overall environmental sustainability of products worldwide. As the first big-mover legislation of its kind, the European Commission’s DPP is already setting a precedent that is inspiring similar initiatives globally.

In the United States, for example, the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) is pushing Congress to revise labeling regulations to incorporate the use of digital labels. This signals the EU’s model may become the global standard, requiring companies worldwide to make DPP compliance a strategic priority.

In efforts to mitigate trade barriers for greener products and lower costs for sustainable investments and compliance, the European Union has set out to develop the DPP mandate in an open dialogue alongside international partners, while working with partner countries to assess potential impacts globally. Impacted companies should start taking steps now to ensure they have the right technology strategies in place to prepare for the DPP. The deployment of RAIN RFID as part of a DPP compliance mix means that businesses can take full advantage of its benefits, ensuring they’re meeting DPP mandates while solving key business challenges and driving new innovations and business value more broadly.

Editor’s Note: Megan Brewster is the vice president of advanced technology at Seattle-based Impinj, a provider of RAIN radio frequency identification technologies. Prior to joining Impinj, Brewster served as fellow and senior policy advisor for advanced manufacturing for the White House Office of Science and Technology Policy, where she supported the stand-up of the administration’s signature advanced manufacturing initiative.

2024 Quarterly Volume III

 

Microfactory: VORN — The Berlin Fashion Hub, Cooperates With STOLL And KM.ON On Lighthouse Project

OBERTSHAUSEN, Germany — July 18, 2024 — The registered cooperative VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub, is using three ADF machines from STOLL and digital solutions from KM.ON — both brands of the KARL MAYER GROUP — to equip its microfactory currently under construction in Berlin’s Bikinihaus. The platform is intended to bring together academics, brands, research institutes, start-ups and SMEs to create new ways of achieving greater sustainability and ethos. The goal is a fashion industry with a positive balance sheet. The pixel-to-product microfactory offers innovative hardware and software solutions for the physical, digital or hybrid implementation and testing of promising concepts, products and processes.

One of STOLL’s machines for the VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub project

“We are delighted to be involved in the Fashion Microfactory project, because with our machines, which are predestined for efficient customization thanks to their enormous patterning flexibility, and with our digital solutions, which significantly shorten lead times, we have been focusing on the topic of made-to-order for a long time and hope to gain new impetus and contacts,” says Michael Händel, Vice President Sales & Service at STOLL.

Marte Hentschel (left) and Oliver Lange (right), the co-CEOs of VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub and Michael Händel, Vice President Sales & Service at STOLL, after signing the contracts for the delivery of the STOLL machines

The contracts for the delivery of the flat knitting machines were signed on July 9 at STOLL’s headquarters in Reutlingen. my TEXTILE NEWS editor Ulrike Schlenker took advantage of the visit by the two co-CEOs of VORN, Prof. Marte Hentschel and Oliver Lange, to talk to them about their project.

Schlenker: You have just returned from a tour of the company. What is your impression of STOLL?

Oliver Lange: I am still very enthusiastic. Great, creative, innovative people work here who drive their company forward.

STOLL “breathes” German engineering and demonstrates continuity with its long history. At the same time, you can sense a great pioneering spirit. I experience STOLL as a strong, innovative, future-oriented manufacturer with entrepreneurial spirit and creativity. Its product strategy is impressive. With its machines, STOLL is close to the consumer market in many sectors and therefore has its finger on the pulse of time.

Schlenker: Let’s take a look at your pixel-to-product microfactory. What do you want to achieve with it?

Michael Händel: We were commissioned by the Berlin Senate Department for Economics, Energy and Public Enterprises to bring together design and manufacturing with technological innovation and sustainability. The aim is to make economic action and a sense of responsibility tangible, i.e. not just to talk about the necessary sustainability transformation, but to take action. In our demonstration factory, we offer low-threshold access to everything that is necessary for this: machines, software and services so that progressive players can pilot their changes quickly and then scale them up for the market. We create all the prerequisites for fast, market-oriented and price-conscious implementation of small series. This saves storage, material and return costs, reduces environmental impact and ensures more resilient supply chains in response to the challenges of our time. In addition, direct-to-customer production offers exciting margins and marketing opportunities – all advantages that make our pixel-to-product microfactory particularly interesting for brands. To take full advantage of this, we work with innovative partners from the entire value chain, from yarn suppliers to retailers.

Schlenker: STOLL is one of the partners, why?

Händel: We have the same idea of cooperation and want to develop things further with courage, strength and curiosity.

Lange: STOLL plays an active role in shaping the future. As a consequence we emphasize  on sustainability and digitalization. We believe in the same things and drive them forward in the same way.

Händel: In addition to the shared set of values, we were impressed by the company’s flat knitting machines. They offer unique possibilities for the economical production of small batches, particularly with regard on demand production close to the market and garments that are  seamless, i.e. with virtually  little in the manufacturing process. This makes them a perfect fit for our concept. We also want to integrate STOLL’s customers into our network in order to scale up production to industrial levels.

Schlenker: The machines are due to be installed in August. What are the next steps?

Händel: The opening of the Microfactory is planned for October. Preparations are in full swing. We are currently fitting out the premises in the Bikinihaus. The aim is not a conventional production facility, but a concept hall, a glass laboratory whose interior design showcases the production technology of the future to clients and end customers. The new workflow of virtual design, sales, payment and just in time production is to be brought to life.

In addition to the interior design, we are scheduling training sessions for our staff, working on a number of programmes, including applied R&D activities, and driving forward pilot projects with manufacturers and studios. We presented two outfits from the label SE 1 OG at the last Fashion Week Berlin. At the next fashion week, we want to celebrate the opening of the Microfactory with the live production of giveaways that guests can configure individually.

We are also in talks about continuing our collaboration with the Senate at the end of 2025, after the co-financing has expired. Our VORN Fashion Hub is a long-term initiative that is backed by political commitment and great public interest.

Schlenker: Concepts of on-demand production of individualized items with a batch size of 1 are not new, but they are a challenge. Adidas discontinued its Speedfactory project in 2020. What are you doing differently to be successful?

Händel: A lot has changed in recent years. Today, we have the possibilities of a completely new generation of technology at our disposal. Hardware and software solutions are being developed and refined with enormous power. The software offerings of the CREATE family from KM.ON, for example, offer a wide range of potential for the production of knitwear collections on demand. A set of modification options makes simple, economical mass customization possible. The crisis in the retail sector is also forcing retailers to come up with new concepts and providers. Berlin is a good place for the necessary change. We also rely on experience. We work closely with the team that supported the Adidas project and benefit from what we have learned. Our focus is also not on batch size 1 production only.  Following the path of renowned innovation labs in Amsterdam and London, we will offer capacities so that brands, retailers and designers can bring small series to market in short project times and with high visibility. In this way, we close the gap between lengthy projects with academic institutions and mass production in large quantities.

Posted: July 18, 2024

Source: KARL MAYER GROUP

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