BRUSSELS — September 23, 2022 — The textile, clothing, leather and footwear (TCLF) industries employ 80,000 workers in Bulgaria. However, employment has gone down by 20 percent in the past four years which is a concern. Social partners discussed the challenges and opportunities of the new EU Sustainable Textiles Strategy and focused on both environmental and social sustainability. They agreed that for the Strategy to be successful, all stakeholders must come together, and that a level playing field must be maintained between EU (Bulgarian) and non-European companies.

In the face of tough global competition, huge investment will be needed in both technology and people to ensure that the Bulgarian TCLF sectors can become greener and more digital. The modernization of these sectors would also help the sector to become more attractive to Bulgarian workers, thus reducing the need to hire workers from abroad.

Employers and unions called on the Bulgarian government to come up with an industrial strategy to make use of the growth opportunities for a country close to major European markets. In the EU Strategy, TCLF industries are one of 14 industrial priority sectors.

Concerns were raised by national social partners, similar to other central and south European countries, that some young workers have opted to leave for Western Europe. Proposals to tackle this issue included ensuring better purchasing practices from major fashion brands whose suppliers account for more than 90 percent of TCLF production. The social partners voiced their hope that with improvement in the purchasing practices of brands, changes in the behaviour of consumers and measures to ensure competitiveness that benefits could be felt by both industry and the workforce.

FOSIL-CITUB and FLI-PODREPA unions called for stronger social dialogue and sectoral collective bargaining. There has been no branch agreement since 2008, and existing company accords only cover 3 to 4 percent of the sector. This is far from the 80-percent coverage mentioned as reference in the upcoming European Minimum Wage Directive. As such, the unions have agreed to start developing a work plan to increase their leverage.

Employers wanted to have regulations to combat the grey economy and unfair competition. BAATPE and BATOK associations acknowledged that social partners must increase their representativeness to have a louder voice.

Luc Triangle, industriAll Europe’s general secretary said: “The message from trade unions in Sofia is clear: we need quality social dialogue and strong collective agreements to ensure a positive future for the TCLF industries in Bulgaria. The EU’s Sustainable Textiles Strategy offers a real opportunity if managed correctly, but investments – both in technology and the workforce – will be essential. This includes ensuring fair wages and good conditions to retain current workers and attract new ones.’’

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX director general, said: “In a context where Europe puts more focus on quality, transparency and sustainability, Bulgarian textile companies have a future. But they need support from the authorities to make that green and digital transition, and a constructive social dialogue, which ensures long term competitiveness of the industry.”

Carmen Arias, secretary general of CEC, said: “Moreover, a particular focus and attention should be given to investments on skills and lifelong learning of workers. People are the main asset for the growth and competitiveness of the footwear and leather goods industries, and the education system in Bulgaria should be able to respond to companies’ skills needs. For that purpose, adequate curricula and related training programmes should be developed and education infrastructures made available by public authorities, in particular when it comes to vocational education and training (VET).’’

Gustavo Gonzalez-Quijano, secretary general of COTANCE, said: “Leather producers in Bulgaria and all over Europe constitute a fundamental link in the world’s most demanding fashion value chains. They also play an important societal role, as they collect and transform a residue of the food & feed ecosystem into one of the most appealing textile ecosystem materials there is. For keeping generating wealth and jobs they need support from their public authorities for solving the problems of rocketing energy costs, unfair extra-EU competition, and a difficult labour market.”

The workshop was part of an EU-funded Social Dialogue project ’Ensuring a sustainable future for the Southeast European textile, clothing, leather and footwear industries’, carried out in cooperation between European industry associations EURATEX, COTANCE, CEC and industriAll Europe. The two-year project covers Bulgaria, Croatia, North Macedonia, Romania and Serbia, where the TCLF industries employ over 400,000 workers.

Posted: September 23, 2022

Source: EURATEX

BIELLA, Italy — September 23, 2022 — The 58th edition of Filo, the International Yarns and Fibres’ Exhibition, closed today registering great results. Among the stands, the work has been intense during the two days, resulting from a constant flow of visitors and buyers. Foreign buyers came back to the fair, and this represented a very important element, exceeding numbers registered in 2019.

The 58th edition focused on the two main issues, sustainability and creativity. These are two essential and interconnected concepts — the two sides of the same coin — as it was highlighted during the opening ceremony, which was indeed dedicated to “Sustainability and creativity: from new textile to new fashion”. The two stylists, Massimo Crivelli and Martino Midali, who were the guests of the ceremony, talked to Filo’s audience about their vision of fashion, the importance of the constant relation with fabrics and materials’ producers in a creative dialogue along the supply chain — which is now fundamental more than ever for conveying new ideas. It indeed brings innovation and considers sustainability as the result of a continuous research.

Paolo Monfermoso, responsible for Filo, stated: “The 58th edition of Filo closes with positive results. I would like to thank for this great result the exhibitors who, as always, brought to the fair very high quality collections. But I also want to thank buyers, that once again proved to be competent and concrete interlocutors for our exhibitors”.

Monfermoso added: “Filo is increasingly becoming a platform for business, for exchanging ideas and projects, collaborations arising and growing in our booths and in our spaces. Behind all this, there is the Area dedicated to “Dialoghi Creativi” — also including “Un Filo per la Maglia” — on one hand, and the Sustainability Area with FiloFlow on the other: they have been both designed for being a guidance and a forward-looking inspiration, but concrete enough to meet companies’ needs.

On the other hand, through “Dialoghi di Confronto”, we want to develop discussion on key issues within textile industry, such as sustainability, innovation, and the fundamental role of fibres in carrying out new products. Particularly in this edition, great interest resulted from the research on the opportunities and the challenges of textile market in the U.K., carried out by Piedmont Region and Ceipiemonte in the scope of Progetto Integrato di Filiera (PIF) ‘Tessile’ promoted by Piedmont Region and funded thanks to POR-FESR Piemonte 2014-2020 funds, that has been presented during one of the most popular “Dialoghi di Confronto”.

Confirming Filo’s international vocation, the collaboration between the Exhibition, the Piedmont Region and the Regional Agency for internationalization Ceipiemonte also made it possible to organize, again within the Project, the incoming of a delegation of 14 incoming buyers from the United Kingdom and Spain, who during the visit were able to appreciate the high quality of the collections exhibited at Filo. 36 foreign buyers arrived to the fair thanks to the great and long cooperation with Agenzia ICE, coming from 13 different countries: France, Portugal, Ireland, the U.K., Hungary, Turkey, Uzbekistan, Ethiopia, Jordan, Palestine, South Africa, Vietnam, India. Of course, we must add also many Italian and foreign buyers who reached Filo independently”.

Monfermoso concluded: “Designing textile’s future also means protecting its cultural heritage. Therefore, Filo decided to host the exhibition, curated by Elisabetta Invernici, “Estetica ’70: il genio di Brunetta dialoga con Franco”: the reach foundations laid down in the past can be a great source of inspiration for the future. The two days of the 58th edition of Filo were intense, full of meetings, professional exchanges and stylistic hints and stimuli for debate. Next Filo edition is scheduled to be held in February, with the 59th edition of Filo”.

The 59th edition of Filo will take place in February 2023, on the 22nd and the 23rd at Allianz MiCo

Posted: September 23, 2022

Source: Filo

PHILADELPHIA — September 21, 2022 — Anthropologie, the apparel and home goods retailer, and House of Hackney, the maximalist English design house, announced today the launch of their exclusive collaboration.

Available only at Anthropologie, the unique collection explores both brands’ love of “bringing the outdoors in” through adventurous prints, colors, and fabrications. The collaboration gives traditional styles a bespoke modern twist, and is comprised of textiles for every room, kitchenware, tabletop, small décor items, and more.

“At Anthropologie, we are continually looking to create new, inspirational, and original product for our loyal interiors customers, as well as those new to the brand,” said Mary Beth Sheridan, chief merchandising officer of Home and Beauty at Anthropologie. “Renowned for their opulent style and exquisite prints, we knew that collaborating with House of Hackney to rework traditional styles was exactly what our customer needed for Fall. Each piece in the collection was carefully designed with a distinctive touch that both of our brands have become so well known for, and we are delighted to introduce both our new and dedicated Anthropologie customers to their adventurous point of view.”

“At House of Hackney we believe that there are no rules when designing your home” said Frieda Gormley, co-founder of House of Hackney. “We are excited to be partnering with Anthropologie on a collection of pieces that will inspire, excite, and encourage their customers to build spaces in their home that reflect who they truly are. We have always encouraged our customers to build homes where they can be themselves, and surround themselves with objects that bring them joy, and most importantly, grow with them, hopefully being passed down through generations to come. We can’t wait to see how Anthropologie’s U.S. customer receives the collection, and how they weave House of Hackney throughout their homes.”

This Anthropologie-exclusive collection will be available both in-store and online beginning today.

Posted: September 21, 2022

Source: Anthropologie

ZEELAND, Mich. — September 21, 2022 — Herman Miller, in collaboration with Danish design brand HAY, today unveiled the Herman Miller x HAY Collection — a 21st-century reinterpretation of eight beloved Eames mid-century classics. Featuring new, inspired color palettes and updated materials, the collection is a powerful combination of original, timeless design with a contemporary point of view. It also serves as a full-circle moment for HAY founders Rolf and Mette Hay — lifelong admirers of modern design, Herman Miller, and the Eameses.

“Herman Miller is built on a legacy of risk taking and creative collaboration,” said Ben Watson, president, Herman Miller. “With this collection, HAY thoughtfully reimagines Eames classics in a forward-thinking, first-of-its-kind collaboration. A unique vision of color, the evolution of thoughtful materials, and a beautifully interconnected story of design partnership harnesses the enduring spirit of Herman Miller.”

In anticipation of HAY’s 20th anniversary in 2022, Herman Miller approached Rolf and Mette with a flexible provocation: What could the two design brands do together that they could not create alone? The answer: a fresh take on the original color palette and material ingenuity of the Eames furniture collection made by Herman Miller to deliver a group of pieces that are both obviously Eamesian — and uniquely HAY.

Driven by curiosity and play, Rolf and Mette’s philosophy, as well as their intimate design partnership, this new collection also aligns with their biggest influences, Charles and Ray Eames, whose unique synergy led to iconic status in modern design. Mette cites the Eameses’ playful, yet rigorous approach to design as the model for her and her husband Rolf’s own process. “They were very experimental in taking advantage of new technologies, “says Rolf Hay. “And they were having fun.” Like their predecessors, the Hays have always been motivated by the certainty that good design is for everyone — a founding principle behind HAY the brand.”

“Since the inception of HAY, our goal has been to provide our customers with access to works by the best designers in the world — designers who understand that if you want to create high-quality industrial design for the many, then you need to find smart ways of producing,” adds Rolf Hay. For that element, he points to Herman Miller’s track record of innovative manufacturing and precision engineering: “If you look at a product like the Aeron Chair, there’s only one company that could develop a chair with such complexity — and that’s Herman Miller. It takes a strong passion for design and a pioneering legacy in production.”

HAY consulted the Herman Miller archives for references that could help modernize the company’s approach to color without recreating it directly. “Being very familiar with the existing color range, my intention was to focus on looking ahead, instead of looking too far back,” says Mette Hay. Her research was further informed by delving into Eames ephemera cataloged by MillerKnoll archivist Amy Auscherman; one-off furniture prototypes listed on auction sites and in museum catalogs; and out-of-production textiles by Alexander Girard, archived at textile brand Maharam’s New York studio.

The Eameses had worked closely with Alexander Girard, who was the founding director of the textiles division at Herman Miller and became their close personal friend and frequent collaborator. Girard’s innovation within the textile realm — in which he employed bold and unusual color combinations as well as subtle, understated, and textural palettes — offered the Eameses a wide array of options when considering how to further enhance their genre-defying mid-century furniture.

Rolf points to history’s many designers, “who are great in terms of giving form to industrial design, but are lacking in [development of] color and texture. That was not the case with Charles and Ray Eames — they had a fantastic sensibility, and working with Alexander Girard was inspiring for both of them, as working with his textiles has been for us.”

Mette’s vision of color in this collection pays homage to Ray Eames’s artistic eye and Girard’s world of boundary-pushing colors. The collection includes seven spirited colorways meant for endless interplay and combination, including colors like Toffee, Iron Red, and Powder Yellow. Complementing the main color palette is a special edition of the Eames Sofa Compact upholstered in a circa-1955 colorway of Girard’s Jacob’s Coat textile, which Maharam has faithfully reissued for the collaboration at Mette’s request.

The collection’s innovative material palette was expanded elsewhere in the collection, including with the Eames Hang-It-All, which sports cast-glass balls in place of the original painted wood, representing a new play on color, tactility, and utility. The Eames Wire Base Low Table and Universal Base Round Table, now with cast-glass tops, bring artistic craft and dimension to any space. As part of MillerKnoll’s commitment to reducing its environmental impact, the Molded Plastic Shell Chairs, both with and without arms, contain 100% post-industrial recycled plastic available in the HAY-designed six-color palette; and the Eames Wire Chairs are powder-coated for outdoor use with optional cushions upholstered in tone-on-tone outdoor fabric. Hay’s reimagining of the iconic Eames Molded Plywood Chair, now in an emerald green colorway ubiquitous to HAY’s additional best-selling collections, is a personal favorite product of Mette and Rolf’s; in fact, one of the original Eames prototypes currently resides in the Hays’ own living room in Denmark.

The collection is available in North America, South America, Asia, Australia, and Africa starting September 21, 2022. Exclusive Collection retail partners include MoMA Design Store in the U.S. and Inform Interiors in Canada starting September 21, 2022; the Collection will also be available via additional select retailers starting October 21, 2022.

Posted: September 21, 2022

Source: Herman Miller, Inc.