Alchemie Establishes Taiwan Showroom

England-based Alchemie Technology reports it has shipped one of its Endeavour™ digital dyeing machines to Taiwan. Endeavour produces no wastewater and reduces energy consumption by 85 percent compared to traditional dyeing processes. The machine will be installed at JSRTEX Group as part of an Alchemie demonstration hub and showroom to communicate the benefits of the technology to potential customers in Asia. Alchemie has plans to establish more showrooms around the globe.

“Alchemie plans to deliver a significant number of Endeavour low energy, waterless dyeing machines into Asia in the next two years, where most of the world’s dyeing and finishing takes place,” said Dr. Simon Kew, managing director of Alchemie Technology. “This will also require the support of governments through investment, grants and legislation, and the critical effort of brands and pioneering manufacturers in their supply chains. Having an Endeavour demonstration hub in Taiwan is another important milestone on our journey towards transforming the fashion industry and helping to reduce its climate impact. We are excited to be delivering the long-awaited transition to more sustainable textile dyeing.”

January/February 2022

Archroma Introduces EARTH SOFT System

Switzerland-based Archroma recently introduced EARTH SOFT, a new softening system based on its Siligen® EH1 vegan silicone softener, which is made using 35-percent plant-based, renewable raw materials. The softener also features ultralow amounts of cyclic siloxanes, which are classified by the European Chemicals Agency as “Substances of Very High Concern.” The range is built around Archroma’s principles of “The Archroma Way to a sustainable world: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature.”

Archroma reports Siligen EH1 offers a smooth, soft touch as well as good moisture transport making it suitable for shirts, underwear, sportswear, towels and bed sheet applications. The Earth Soft system includes its Hydroperm® wicking agent, which boosts hydrophilic properties on man-made and blended fibers.

January/February 2022

Eco-Conscious Cellulosic Fiber Yarn Realized With Rieter Expertise

Eco-conscious blend of Naia fibers with polyester

Eastman Chemical engaged Rieter when it wanted to extend its Naia™ cellulosic product into staple fiber yarns.

TW Special Report

Global specialty chemicals company Eastman Chemical Co., Kingsport, Tenn., turned to Switzerland-based Rieter regarding a process consultancy for its new staple fiber. The cellulosic fiber Naia™ already existed as a filament yarn and can now be utilized for a wider range of textile applications. Eastman and Rieter worked together to find the right blends and yarn counts for the Naia staple fiber to increase its market penetration, while giving fashion brands a truly sustainable choice.

Eastman turned to Rieter for help in developing a new staple fiber, made from cellulosic acetate. To increase market penetration, and bring the Naia fiber to more textile applications, Eastman decided to also offer it in the form of a staple fiber as well as a filament yarn.

This is where Rieter came into play. Rieter has broad experience across all spinning systems and in processing all types of staple fibers from bale to yarn. The company’s expertise also extends to processing and testing further applications of the yarns in the downstream process.

The eco-conscious blends created with the Eastman Naia staple fiber are supremely soft and dry quickly. Naia consistently reduces pilling, giving designers more freedom and choice. The fiber is produced using wood pulp and sourced from sustainably managed pine and eucalyptus forests. It is produced in a safe, closed-loop process where solvents are recycled back into the system for reuse and without the use of hazardous chemicals. The manufacturing process has a low tree-to-fiber carbon and water footprint. This, combined with biodegradable certification, results in a sustainable material that is perfect for T-shirts, comfort wear, jumpsuits, sweaters and dresses, and delivers a truly sustainable option to fashion brands globally.

First Trials With Naia — Understanding The Fiber

The cellulosic fiber used in Rieter’s first trials brought to light some challenges. By more deeply studying and understanding the characteristics of the cellulosic fiber, the technologists targeted their process approach and shared their intermediate learnings.

New Fiber, New Blends

The second set of trials showed more promise. Building on the initial trial results, Eastman went back to its laboratories and further developed the Naia staple fiber, improving the fiber’s processability. A noteworthy improvement in the carding process resulted in a high-quality sliver.

Rieter’s textile technologists continued to process the different blends with polyester, modal and lyocell fibers. This included winding cones, spun conventional ring yarn and compact-twin yarn made from each blend in Rieter’s spin center at the company’s headquarters in Winterthur, Switzerland. It spun single ring yarns in Ne 30 and Ne 40 counts, and compact-twin yarns in Ne 40 and Ne 60 counts. Running performance throughout fiber opening and carding was smooth. The Naia staple fiber performed well on the draw frames, and sliver was produced with acceptable uniformity. All blends could be processed with normal production speed.

Process Recommendations For Eastman 

After all the tests and trials, the Rieter textile technologists gained a good understanding of what is possible with the Naia fiber. Learnings from the trials were shared with Eastman for further evaluation and testing. In addition, Rieter trained the Eastman team, including technical sales, on the process recommendations, machine settings and blend ratios to spin the best version of the fiber. The Naia staple fiber was launched into the market in February 2020. Leading global fashion retailer H&M was first to market with its Conscious Exclusive Autumn/Winter 2020 collection made with Eastman Naia Renew cellulosic fiber.

January/February 2022

Significance Of Sustainability In Textiles

Brands and consumers can work together to make the textile industry more sustainable.

By Puneet Goyal

Recent globalization has led to a greater number of people migrating to cities in search of better opportunities. This has led to a continuous surge in demand for natural resources like fossil fuels, wood, metals and cotton. Continuous and unchecked usage of these resources has led to their rapid depletion. Another major problem is an increase in piles of waste generated as byproducts in manufacturing processes. Solid waste disposal has become a serious problem in urban cities across the world, thereby pushing mankind towards sustainable initiatives. Sustainability implies meeting our current needs judiciously, and also keeping in mind the needs and demands of future generations, to achieve a balance between the two.

Pillars Of Sustainability

Sustainability is made up of three pillars — environment, economy and society. These three pillars also are informally called profit, people, and the planet. Each pillar plays a major role in categorizing the type of initiative taken by the corporations and brands. In recent times, it has become one of the major areas of concern because of the rapid increase in consumer awareness and availability of mass information online.

Environmental Sustainability

Environmental sustainability implies that natural resources within the earth’s environment are consumed by humans at a rate where they are able to replenish themselves. The environmental pillar often gets the most attention. Manufacturing industries and brands are constantly focusing on reducing their carbon footprints, packaging waste, water usage, and their overall effect on the environment. Corporations have discovered that these sustainable initiates also have a positive financial impact. For example, reducing the amount of material used in packaging usually reduces the overall expenditure on those materials.

Economic Sustainability

This pillar ensures that economic systems are intact and activities such as secure sources of livelihood are available to everyone across the globe. Also, people are able to maintain their independence and have access to the resources that they require to meet their daily needs.

Social Sustainability

Social sustainability takes into account that healthy communities have just leaders who treat everyone with equality and ensure labor, cultural and personal rights are respected. People are protected from discrimination. Universal human rights and basic necessities are attainable by all.

Why Sustainability Is Imperative

It is unrealistic to create a list of reasons why so many individuals, groups, and communities are working towards sustainability, because the motivations behind sustainability are often complex, personal, and diverse. Yet, for most people, sustainability boils down to the kind of future we are leaving for the next generation. Sustainability as a value is shared by many individuals and organizations who demonstrate this value in their policies, everyday activities and behaviors. These policies and activities play a vital role in deciding consumer choice. Common individuals also play a major role in developing current environmental and social circumstances by choosing greener alternatives.

Sustainability In Textiles

Sustainability in textiles implies consuming green clothing. For this, one has to rely on specific brands using fabrics from recycled materials or innovative natural fibers. At times, we may have heard to avoid certain types of cotton or wool and instead choose fibers such as lyocell or linen.

Brands And Manufacturer’s Responsibilities For Promoting Sustainability

Being a responsible brand in the textile industry in terms of sustainability is itself challenging.

Responsibility may mean a lot of things but essentially while classifying brands one should keep in mind the following:

  • Global corporate standards for health and safety of environment and workers;
  • Actions to enhance environmental performance such as reduced water usage and recycling programs, for example;
  • Transparent and ethical sourcing policies for raw material as well as finished goods;
  • A commitment to fair living wages for workers; and
  • Clearly defined corporate sustainability strategies and practices.

Textile brands and manufacturers are taking initiatives towards sustainability. Some recent efforts include:

  • H&M — created transparency rules for suppliers and provided details of its sustainability strategy in its annual sustainability report.
  • Nike — set sustainability targets that include minimizing its environmental footprint through analyzing the supply chain to “use less, use better and use again.”
  • ASOS — initiated a “Green Room” on its website that displays only ethically conscious brands that fit within its “sustainability criteria.”
  • Fat Face — developed a company-wide code of conduct for its factories and a responsible sourcing commitment.
  • Patagonia — A market leader in responsible fashion, the company has launched an innovative clothing reuse and recycle program.

Consumer’s Recent Shift Towards Sustainable Initiatives

Many non-profit organizations have come with innovative programs to promote sustainability in textiles by targeting consumers. Cotton Incorporated offers its Blue Jeans Go Green™ program, a social initiative designed to encourage consumers to recycle old denim garments. Started in 2006, the Blue Jeans Go Green program collects old denim, made from high cotton content, so it can be recycled back to its original fiber state and transformed into useful new products such as building insulation, thermal packaging insulation, pet bed inserts, and more. The #DenimStackChallenge encourages consumers to collect their old and used denim, take pictures of their denim “stacks,” and share them on social media, and then recycle those pieces they can no longer wear.

Since the Blue Jeans Go Green program began, more than 1,950 tons of denim have been diverted from landfills, and more than 3,900,000 pieces of denim have been recycled. In 2021 alone, more than 60,000 pieces of denim were collected in the first three quarters by individuals and retailers.

Among the consumers who have participated in the program, 80 percent said they decided to contribute because they’re “trying to be more sustainable or environmentally conscious.” Consumers also said they liked the fact that their denim goes toward helping communities. Consumers said participating in the Blue Jeans Go Green program “makes me feel like I have done something good”, and they would prefer to keep their unwanted denim items out of landfills.

Solution: Circular Economy

A circular economy or circularity is a production and consumption model. It involves sharing, leasing, reusing, repairing, refurbishing, and recycling existing materials and products for as long as possible. This aims to tackling global challenges like climate change, biodiversity loss, and waste generation. A circular economy is unlike a linear economy in which there is no recycling or reusing.

On World Cotton Day last October, PacSun announced its involvement with Cotton Incorporated’s Blue Jeans Go Green program to launch the “PacDenim for Good” initiative.

“As a brand dedicated to inspiring positive development with fashion, we firmly believe that small changes today will result in a better tomorrow,” said Brie Olson, PacSun president. “We are excited to introduce PacDenim for Good as a continuation of our journey to a more sustainable future.”

More than 2 out of 5 consumers — 43 percent — say they donate their old jeans they no longer plan to wear, according to the 2020 Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ Survey. That’s followed by 18 percent of consumers who plan to give them away, 12 percent who intend to throw them away, and 9 percent who expect to reuse them in a different way, such as for cleaning rags or craft projects.

Bottom Line

Natural resources available in the earth’s environment are scarce and their judicious use is imperative. Sustainability plays a vital role in this judicious use. Brands and consumers must come together and work towards a better future. Shifting towards greener alternatives can essentially reduce carbon footprints. Initiatives like Blue Jeans Go Green have successfully illustrated this. Another major solution is the circular economy in which emphasizes reducing and recycling waste materials.


Editor’s Note: Puneet Goyal is chief representative – polyester, for RIL USA Inc., a division of India-based Reliance Industries Ltd.


January/February 2022

January/February 2022

Germany-based Freudenberg Performance Materials has increased prices in Europe, the
Middle East and Africa for its nonwoven performance materials used in flooring and filtration applications. The company cited increased raw material, packaging, freight, consumables and energy costs, as well as inbound supply chain disruptions for
the increases.

Bemberg™ cupro fiber — manufactured by Tokyo-based Asahi Kasei — is celebrating its 90th anniversary. The company has launched a rebranding campaign to coincide with the milestone.

The Zurich-based International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), recently announced it was postponing its 2022 annual conference from April until September.
In conjunction with that change, ITMF also has extended the application deadline until April 30 for the “Sustainability & Innovation” and “International Cooperation” awards to be handed out during the conference. More information about the awards and the application process can be found at itmf.org/awards/itmf-awards-2022. In other ITMF news, the textile
division of ARISE Integrated Industrial Platform, United Arab Emirates, has joined
the organization as a Corporate Member.

Sorona®, Wilmington, Del., recently launched the Preferred Mill Network. This catalog lists global mills that offer the full collection of sustainable Sorona sub-branded fabrics including Agile, Aura, Luxe, Profile and Revive.

Winston-Salem, N.C.-based Renaissance Fiber LLC recently won a $50,000 Venture Winston Grant from Agile City, a company focused on business ecosystem building and entrepreneur innovation. Renaissance agreed to move 51 percent of operations and a
co-founder to Winston-Salem where it will have access to a personal mentor and consulting team, among other benefits.

Italy-based Datatex and its U.S. subsidiary Datatex TIS Inc., Alpharetta, Ga., report Gehring Tricot Corp., Hauppauge, N.Y., selected Datatex ERP — including its Product Lifecycle Management (PDM), CAMS shop floor management system, CATS and QA systems for quality control, and PM and MQM solutions for maintenance and machine scheduling solutions — to manage its production processes.

LiveSmart® performance fabric from CULP Inc., High Point, N.C., was used to cover 10,000 lower-level and mezzanine seats at the Dean E. Smith Center at UNC Chapel Hill. The
fabric, matched exactly to the Pantone shade for Carolina Blue, was selected as a way to honor the late company co-founder Rob Culp who was a UNC Chapel Hill graduate.

ARTILECT has selected the Touchlink™ Near Field Communication enabled zipper from YKK® Group for 17 different styles in its Fall/Winter 2022 outdoor performance clothing collection.

Germany-based BASF announced plans to build a new hexamethylene diamine plant in France, and also to increase its nylon 6,6 production at a facility in Germany.

At the recent Outdoor Retailer Winter show, Acteev® and Coalatree launched a zinc-powered shirt designed to fight unwanted odors and the sun’s damaging rays.

Piana Technology, Cartersville, Ga., has received UL formaldehyde-free certification for its flame-retardant (FR)-treated fibers produced by its Tintoria Piana business. The company also has achieved a Zero Discharge certificate for its closed-loop FR treatment process employed at its E.C.O. Planet facility in Cartersville.

Gerber Childrenswear LLC, Greenville, S.C., has expanded its Modern Moments™ by Gerber® collection of baby and toddler essentials sold exclusively at Walmart and on Walmart.com. New items available include playwear, bedding, blankets, nursery décor and toys all available in on-trend colorways.

Pure White Celliant® from Los Angeles-based Hologenix LLC was recognized as a Top Ten product in the Fibers & Insulation category of the ISPO Textrends Fall/Winter 2023-24 trends.

Ireland-based Ulster Weavers recently launched its Home Comforts collection of
contemporary home furnishings, which features linen bean bags, pouffes and cushions, as well as merino wool throws.

England-based MagnaColours® has introduced two new special effect inks. The MagnaPrint® Foil Adhesive is a water-based foil binder that may be used to apply a variety of foils to fabric or garments. The MagnaPrint Ultra Clear Glitter Base allows a printer to add up to 20 percent glitter particles into the base ink.

January/February 2022

January/February 2022

Spartanburg, S.C.-based Milliken & Company recently presented The Roger Milliken Award to Jeff Price and Gary Newman. The award is given to associates who have “created lasting, changing and measurable differences within the company and [have] built a legacy of their own within the organization by creating lasting and measurable differences that have contributed to business success while being a role model of Milliken values as part of their performance.” Milliken also recently named Shri Parikh president of its Healthcare Business and executive vice president of the company.

Houser

Quinn Houser has joined Organic Dyes and Pigments LLC, Lincoln, R.I., as a business development representative for mid-Atlantic states.

Delta Apparel Inc., Greenville, S.C., has named Simone Walsh vice president, CFO and treasurer.

This E. Schneider announced his intent to retire from the board of directors at Rieter Holding AG, Switzerland, at the next Annual General Meeting in April. The board will propose Sarah Kreienbühl and Daniel Grieder for election to the board.

Dr. Rick Michelman

Michelman, Cincinnati, recently announced a number of executive leadership changes as follows: Dr. Richard I. “Rick” Michelman is the new president and CEO; Andrew Michelman, chief business development officer and executive vice president, Asia and Fibers & Composites, has expanded his role with leadership responsibilities for the company’s Americas region and Coatings business segment; Paul Griffith, chief marketing officer and executive vice president, EMEA and Agriculture, will also lead the Printing & Packaging business segment; CFO Jason Wise will assume the role of chief financial & risk officer responsible for the direction and operations of Michelman’s Finance, Accounting, Legal, Regulatory, and Environmental Health & Safety functions; and Kreg Keesee will continue as COO. Outgoing President and CEO Steve Shifman transitioned to executive chair.

The Cary, N.C-based Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA) hired Anthony “Tony” Fragnito as COO. He will take a leadership role in financial operations, updating INDA’s technology platform, and implementing the association’s Strategic Plan.

Craige Murray, executive vice president of Operations for Navis TubeTex, Lexington, N.C., recently retired after 32 years with the company. Mark West was promoted to executive vice president of Engineering and Operations, with additional responsibilities for global manufacturing and supply chain activities.

Toronto-based Canada Goose named Paul Cadman president for its Asia-Pacific (APAC) division. Cadman will oversee all business activities including commercial, financial and marketing in the APAC region.

Austein

Marc Austein has joined Glen Raven Inc., Glen Raven, N.C., as vice president of Corporate Development. He is responsible for identifying and implementing growth strategies for the company including new acquisitions and partnerships.

Texo Trade Services, the Netherlands, has hired Matt van Aalderen as international sales manager.

Germany-based Mahlo GmbH & Co. KG reports that Alan Lavore, CEO of Mahlo America Inc., and Michel Bruni, CEO of Mahlo Italia recently celebrated milestone anniversaries with the company. Lavore has been with the company for 25 years, and Bruni for 40.

England-based Global Inkjet Systems (GIS) named Steve Williamson engineering director.

Lisa Donohue was elected to serve on the board of directors at San Francisco-based Gap Inc.

The American Association of Textile Chemists Colorists (AATCC) awarded Elizabeth A. Eggert its Harold C. Chapin Award winner in recognition of her outstanding service to the organization in the area of test method research and development. In addition, Louann Spirito received the AATCC Technical Committee on Research (TCR) Service Award for 2021. She was recognized for her lead role and support on the M14 Face Covering Monograph.

Unifi Inc., Greensboro, N.C., recently elected Rhonda Ramlo to its board of directors.

Portland, Ore.-based Columbia Sportswear Co. named Andrew Burns vice president, Investor Relations and Strategic Planning.

January/February 2022

Muratec Donates Vortex 870 Spinning Machine To TTC

TTC’s Muratec Vortex 870

Gaston College’s Textile Technology Center (TTC), Belmont, N.C., recently received a Vortex 870 spinning machine from Muratec-Murata Machinery USA Inc. The machinery
supplier also will support the college with training for TTC staff and will service the machine at no cost. The vortex technology eliminates the need for the roving process and combines spinning and winding for efficient production of yarn using a variety of man-made and cotton fibers. Only 156 such spinning machines are in operation in North America, and TTC looks forward to the opportunities presented for new business and also the chance to provide exposure for Muratec’s latest vortex machine.

“Bringing the newest Vortex 870 advancements to Gaston College will keep the Textile
Technology Center in the technology forefront for both commodity and engineered staple yarns,” said TTC Director Don Rusch. “The Textile Technology Center is fortunate to have such substantial support from a technology leader like Muratec.”

“We know the volume of traffic that TTC has, and we want our machine to be at TTC and be part of that visibility,” said David Stalvey, director of the Textile Division, and Chuck Butts, sales manager, Muratec-Murata.

January/February 2022

Baldwin Inks Supplier Agreement With Mexico-Based Blutec

Baldwin Technology, St. Louis, has partnered with Mexico-based textile agency Blutec S.A. de C.V. The agency now represents Baldwin’s full range of spray systems and corona/ plasma treatment technologies for wovens, knits and nonwovens in Mexico.

“We are pleased to partner with Blutec in Mexico,” said Rick Stanford, Baldwin’s vice president of Global Business Development for textiles. “We find that this organization has an excellent reputation in the Mexican textile industry, with a portfolio of machinery principals that provides excellent synergy for Baldwin and our product lines. We’re extremely excited to be onboard.”

“The textile industry in Mexico is looking for solutions to help reduce manufacturing costs,” noted Daniele Uslenghi, Blutec’s general manager. “Baldwin’s precision spray technology provides savings in energy, water and chemistry.”

January/February 2022

Lanificio Cerruti Adds 30 Itema R95002 Weaving Machines

Beginning in March, Italy-based woolen mill Lanificio F.lli Cerruti will begin installing 30 new rapier weaving machines from Itema S.p.A., Italy, in its Biella plant. Lanificio Cerruti identified the Itema R95002 rapier weaving machine as the best option to enhance fabric quality and process sustainability. The company reports environmental, ergonomic and economic advantages that led to its choice.

“Lanificio F.lli Cerruti joins with great satisfaction a partner of excellence as Itema to undertake a path that will help us to further enhance the concept of creative luxury, so inherent in the DNA of our company,” said Filippo Vadda, president and CEO, Lanificio Cerruti.

“We are proud to work with Lanificio Cerruti. It is not just a technological partnership, but the beginning of a co-development journey that will allow us to design and implement solutions of great value,” added Ugo Ghilardi, CEO of the Itema Group. “We firmly believe that together we will give prestige to the Made in Italy creativity and innovation, which are admired all over the world.”

January/February 2022

ZSK Machines To Represent Coloreel In the United States

St. Louis-based ZSK Machines, a division of Notcina Corp., is a new distribution partner of Sweden-based Coloreel Group AB, the manufacturer of Instant Thread Coloring Units (ITCU)— a digital technology for dyeing thread on-demand. ZSK recent sold four Coloreel ITCUs and it is hoped the partnership will help increase sales.

“This is a natural next step in our partnership with ZSK and enable us additional possibility to grow our business in the U.S.,” said Sven Öquist, vice president, sales at
Coloreel. “ZSK Machines has great reach into the U.S. embroidery market and provides excellent customer solutions and support. I am looking forward to many more units sold through our new distribution partnership.”

“This is an exciting time for the textile market, and we are honored to serve the industry and support such incredible developments,” said Bob Mattina, ZSK Embroidery. We are looking forward to expanding the world of Coloreel and pushing the limits of embroidery.”

January/February 2022

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