U.S. textile industry investments illustrate a broad range of commitments from traditional textiles through cutting edge technologies.

TW Special Report

Textile World’s annual review of textile investments highlights a broad-ranging investment horizon including what may be described as traditional textile investments — spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing — as well as apparel and on to leather alternatives for sustainable automotive interiors.

A review of TW’s 2022 “New Plant & Equipment, M&A” news section yields interesting insight into where investors see the future opportunities in the U.S. textile industry and what areas may possibly be reinvigorated in a post-pandemic world.

Leading Firms On The Move

Well established textile companies continued to invest in 2022. Mauldin, S.C.- based Mount Vernon Mills announced that it has agreed to acquire Wade Manufacturing Co.’s yarn spinning and weaving facility located in Rockingham, N.C. The company stated that with the acquisition, Mount Vernon Mills will be vertically integrated from yarn production to finished fabric in certain products and will be in greater control of the company’s supply chain.

“The Rockingham facility is a modern, cost-efficient operation with an experienced and stable workforce, making it a great fit as we increase the amount of control that we have over our yarn supply, weaving operations and overall costs,” said Bill Duncan, CEO, Mount Vernon Mills. “We are also proud to expand our footprint in the U.S. and build upon our made in America commitment and heritage.”

The company stated that initially, the Rockingham facility will produce open-end spun yarn for Mount Vernon Mills and woven greige goods for the company’s flame resistant (FR) products.

Spartanburg, S.C.-based Milliken & Company made two significant announcements this year leading off with the acquisition of one of the Frontier yarn plants located in Mayodan, N.C. The company said that this acquisition from Gildan will expand Milliken’s open-end yarn production for its protective fabrics, workwear, government and defense, industrial, and napery textile business units.

Frontier Spinning Plant #3, which will be renamed the Two Rivers Plant as a nod to its dedicated team and the community it serves, will become a spinning hub for Milliken. Multiple Milliken textile plants throughout the Southeast will source their yarn needs from the Two Rivers Plant.

Milliken also announced a plan to expand operations at its Magnolia Finishing plant in Cherokee County, S.C. The company plans a $27.4 million investment that will create 75 new jobs. The expansion will include newly added production lines to increase manufacturing capacity. The facility specializes in workwear, military and FR apparel.

Additionally, Milliken launched a new polypropylene clarifier plant in Blacksburg, S.C., that will enhance access to the Millad® NX® 8000 additive for customers worldwide. This facility will enable Milliken to meet increasing demand for plastic additives and colorants well into the future.

Creating A New Business

Albemarle, N.C.- based Beverly Knits Inc. purchased the assets of Gentry Mills. The new business — Creative Dyeing & Finishing LLC — will continue to provide dyeing & finishing services to the textile industry. The operation complements the Beverly Knits group of companies — Creative Fabrics, Creative Ticking, Altus Finishing and Hemingway Sewing Solutions.

At the time of the announcement, Ron Sytz, CEO of Beverly Knits Inc. said: “A combination of factors led to the decision to invest and expand. We have been producing quality circular knit textile products for over 42 years in Gastonia, North Carolina. We feel that this is the right time to further expand our capabilities into dyeing and finishing of fabrics. This continues to support the re-shoring of textile production and to strengthen our capability to produce goods ‘Made in the USA.’ With this addition, Beverly Knits companies have the ability to provide solutions from knitting all the way to a completed garment.”

The Creative Dyeing and Finishing operation will provide fabric dyeing, finishing, napping and printing services to the apparel, industrial and bedding markets.

Hemingway Sewing Solutions — a subsidiary of Beverly Knits, announced plans to establish operations in Williamsburg County, S.C. The company’s $3.3 million investment was slated to create 242 new jobs. Hemingway Sewing Solutions plans to manufacture a variety of textile products for brands including Purple Mattress, Indigo and Vapor Apparel, as well as the U.S. Department of Defense.

Wool And Cotton

In other acquisition news, Faribault, Minn.-based brand Faribault Woolen Mill Co. — maker of handcrafted blankets, decorative throws, apparel and accessories — added cotton to its product line up with the acquisition of Brahms Mount, a Monmouth, Maine-based manufacturer of high-quality cotton blankets, throws and other textiles. Terms of the deal were not disclosed.

“This acquisition is a great extension of our strategic focus on building Made in USA jobs,” said Faribault Mill President and CEO Ross Widmoyer. Brahms Mount will continue its cotton product manufacturing in Maine and retain the current employee base.

As part of the acquisition, Faribault Woolen Mill Co. will rebrand as Faribault Mill to reflect the product offering expansion. A new line called The Brahms Mount Collection by Faribault Mill will launch later in the spring.

Going Solar

Piana Technology, the 439-year-old Italy-based textile company known for innovations within the fiber and nonwovens textiles markets, has gone live with a solar panel system at its nonwovens facility in Cartersville, Ga.

The facility specializes in vertically- and crosslapped nonwovens. Since 2016, the facility has manufactured a variety of intermediate products that are behind many of the common household products used today.

Piana partnered with Southern View Energy, a local solar electrical design and solar installation company, to carefully review the facility’s energy profile and pilot an installment project. The new 471 kiloWatt system is poised to supply more than 622,000 kiloWatt hours each year and avoid an estimated 460 tons of carbon dioxide per year, which is equivalent to 125 acres of trees. Although most of this energy will go towards the facility, on days where there is overproduction, energy will go back to the city of Cartersville for redistribution.

Finishing Equipment Capacity

Fab-Con Machinery Development Corp., is a manufacturer of textile finishing equipment that has relocated to Salisbury, N.C. The company announced a $5.3 million investment to relocate its headquarters and manufacturing operation to Rowan County. Serving the knitwear industry for more than five decades, Fab-Con designs, builds, and exports finishing machines for men’s, women’s, and children’s clothing, outerwear and underwear. Fab-Con has a global footprint that supports a major market share of more than 200 customers in Asia, and North, South, and Central Americas. This relocation will be the new home of the company’s global headquarters in a 90,000 square-foot facility as well as its machine manufacturing, administration, and sales operations.

“By relocating to North Carolina, Fab-Con will be more competitively positioned to operate at a lower cost,” said Chris Snyder, vice president, Fab-Con Machinery. “Several recently obtained U.S. and E.U. patents have given us a strong competitive advantage over our competitors both domestically and internationally.” The new positions, including machinists and fabricators, have a combined average annual salary of $73,081, which exceeds Rowan County’s overall annual wage of $48,360. Once filled, these new jobs have the potential to create an annual payroll impact of more than $1.9 million for the community.

Apparel Gets A Boost

New York City-based Ferrara Manufacturing, a family-owned apparel manufacturer announced the launch of Ferrara Uniform. Ferrara Manufacturing produces garments worn on the runways of New York and Paris-as well as by American Olympians and the U.S. military. Located in Manhattan’s Garment District, Ferrara Uniform is a new division of the company focusing specifically on uniforms made in the USA.

With the addition of Ferrara Uniform, the company now is made up of three specialized divisions serving diverse markets — tailoring, uniforms, and protective garments. Ferrara Supply Co. was one of the first federal partners to provide domestically made personal protective equipment (PPE) as part of the 2021 American Rescue Plan, and made millions of gowns and masks in the U.S. during the pandemic for the U.S. government.

Cutting In Alabama

Los Angeles-based BELLA+ CANVAS announced a $11.9 million investment to establish an advanced fabric-cutting facility in Wetumpka, Ala. The operation was to open in a portion of an 890,000-square-foot building vacant since 2013, when Russell Brands departed from the Elmore County city.

BELLA+CANVAS produces clothing for the retail and wholesale markets, while also offering clothing design and manufacturing services. The company is known for its domestic manufacturing mission, the development of innovative new fabrics and its sustainability practices.

At the time of the announcement, Chris Blakeslee, president of BELLA+CANVAS, said, “We are thrilled to be part of the community and look forward to creating jobs and opportunities for many in Alabama.

“After a comprehensive search, we ultimately concluded that our new location in Wetumpka, Alabama was not only optimal to enhance our manufacturing footprint and technologically advanced operations levels, but also ideal in terms of support from the local government and access to great new team members.”

BELLA+CANVAS employs more than 1,000 people at a Los Angeles cutting facility it reports is North America’s most advanced, thanks to proprietary software and specialized cutting tables. The Wetumpka facility is expected to be modeled after this operation.

League And Legacy

New York City-based Sentinel Capital Partners, a private equity announced the acquisition of L2 Brands, a designer, manufacturer, and marketer of custom apparel and headwear for the collegiate, destination and leisure, and corporate markets.

With a heritage dating back more than 30 years, L2 Brands has grown into a diversified business with a successful history of long-term profitable growth. L2’s two brands — League and Legacy — offer widely recognized lines of premium apparel and headwear.

“L2 has a three-decade reputation for offering leading brands, excellent customer service, and high-quality products,” said Sentinel Partner John Van Sickle. “Sentinel is excited to partner with L2 and its talented management team for its next chapter of growth.”

League was founded in 1991 and Legacy was launched one year later and has become the brand of choice in customized headwear and winter knits. These brands include more than 150 styles for men and women that are sold into the collegiate, destination and leisure, and corporate markets.

Freezerwear Acquisition

Dahlonega, Ga.-based RefrigiWear, a supplier of insulated work apparel for the cold chain, announced its acquisition of Samco Freezerwear Co. (Samco). Founded in 1968, Samco is a provider of freezerwear, insulated industrial workwear, and other insulated industrial apparel and accessories for workers in the food-related cold chain.

“We are excited to welcome Samco to the RefrigiWear family. This acquisition will help us serve our customers with a broader range of choices,” explained Ryan Silberman, RefrigiWear CEO. “For us, it’s all about the customer and gaining capabilities to serve the ever-changing and demanding environments they face in the cold chain.”

Both companies offer a selection of products that keep workers warm and safe in temperature-controlled distribution and production facilities, which can sometimes operate in temperatures well-below freezing. RefrigiWear and Samco continue to operate under separate brand names with diverse product offerings for customers both small and large.

Glacier Glove

Michael Southard, managing director of Beachwood, Ohio-based Elvisridge Capital LLC, announced the acquisition of Glacier Outdoor Inc. (Glacier Glove). Based in Reno, Nev., Glacier Glove manufactures gloves and other apparel for the fishing and hunting industries. Glacier now joins Elvisridge Capital’s other fishing-related brands, Blackfin Rods and fishing line manufacturer BBS (FINS Fishing).

“Glacier fits well with our existing portfolio companies in this space,” Southard stated. “Our strategy will be to continue to add distribution points, as well as increase the speed and quantity of product development.”

Memphis Campus Expansion

Memphis, Tenn.-based Radians® — a manufacturer of personal protective equipment including Radwear® high visibility apparel, rainwear, hand protection, head gear, cooling products, heated jackets, workwear, N95 respirators and face masks/gaiters among other products —announced the expansion of its Memphis campus.

“We’re very happy that the new space is conveniently located next door to our Discover buildings and very close to our Distriplex headquarter buildings,” said CEO Mike Tutor. “The increase in space is significant because the expansion represents a 20 percent increase in Radians’ overall square footage, bringing our Memphis campus footprint to approximately eight acres under roof.”

According to Tutor, the expansion allows Radians to have more inventory in-house strengthening its supply chain capabilities and provides the needed space required for its growing warehousing operations and workforce.

“Our employees are ecstatic about having a larger and more efficient workspace at Mineral Wells,” said President Bill England. “Thanks to our employees, sales team, large distributor networks, and product innovations, we have experienced explosive growth in multiple product lines. It was time for more space and resources to support this growth.”

Furniture Focus

Headquartered in Conover, N.C., furniture manufacturer Vanguard Furniture Company Inc. announced an investment of more than $5.9 million for an expansion of its upholstery manufacturing operations to Morganton, N.C.

“North Carolina continues to be the global leader for furniture manufacturing,” said North Carolina Governor Roy Cooper in a press release.

Vanguard Furniture is a manufacturer and marketer of high-end case goods and upholstery. It is a family-held company, employing 680 associates operating out of seven manufacturing facilities in Conover, N.C., and Hillsville, Va., with flagship showrooms showroom in High Point, N.C., and Las Vegas.

East Coast Operation

Sausalito, Calif.-based high-end furniture company Serena & Lily announced it will locate its first East Coast operation with a new $55 million, 1.2-million-square-foot distribution facility located at the Georgia International Trade Center in Effingham County, Ga.

“Our unmatched logistics infrastructure through air, land, and sea is an asset to any company that chooses to locate here,” said Governor Brian Kemp. “We are home to the nation’s fastest-growing port, and Georgia has established itself as the logistics hub of the Southeast. We are excited Serena & Lily chose Georgia to grow their business, and we look forward to helping them reach markets all over the world.”

Sean Connelly, COO of Serena & Lily said, “With its proximity to the Port of Savannah and our East Coast customers, this facility will play an integral role in supporting our infrastructure network to shorten lead times and ultimately enhance our customer experience.”

Leather Alternative

Biotechnology company MycoWorks, a firm that specializes in mycelium-based materials as sustainable, luxury-quality leather alternatives, has announced plans to establish operations in Union County, S.C. The company’s $107 million investment will create 400 new jobs.

Established in 2013, MycoWorks’ patented Fine Mycelium™ process produces materials including Reishi™ — a globally recognized breakthrough in materials science — that mimics the performance of animal leathers and lowers environmental impacts. The material offers creative solutions and new design possibilities for fashion and luxury brands while offering relief to supply chain constraints.

MycoWorks also announced its newest investor GM Ventures — the investment arm of General Motors Co. — and their long-term agreement to co-develop Fine Mycelium materials for potential use in a range of applications within automotive design. MycoWorks’ collaboration with GM marks the exploration of its entry into one of the largest end-use markets for leather and demonstrates the significant opportunity to create more sustainable materials for the automotive space.

Technical Textiles

Hillside, N.J.-based technical textile manufacturer Ronald Mark Associates Inc. (RMA), a producer of custom resin and vinyl fabric formulations and technical services, announced a $13.5 million investment to establish a manufacturing operation in Tazewell County, Va.

“Ronald Mark Associates has selected the State of Virginia to expand their operations in advanced fabric coating. The progressive talent of Tazewell County is a perfect place to start, create, and produce infrastructure fabrics and technical textiles for our Ronald Mark customers,” said RMA President Michael Satz.

RMA has been marketing, distributing, and packaging PVC resin since 1971 and manufacturing vinyl films and technical textiles since 1979. RMA has positioned itself as an innovator and streamlined manufacturer in the flat roof membrane market as well as critical proprietary fabrics for infrastructure.

TexCoat G4 At Graniteville

St. Louis-based Baldwin Technology Co. Inc. has announced the installation of its state-of-the-art TexCoat G4 finishing system at Graniteville Specialty Fabrics. Using Baldwin’s cost-efficient and highly sustainable spray finishing technology, Graniteville Specialty Fabrics will be able to increase production efficiency, and minimize chemical and water waste.

Based in Graniteville, S.C., Graniteville Specialty Fabrics produces coatings and coated fabrics that are resistant to water, fire, ultraviolet rays and weather for the military, marine and tent markets, among other markets. The company excels in developing and sourcing custom coatings, and creating specialized technical solutions to meet specific, and often unique, end-user requirements. The installation of Baldwin’s TexCoat G4 is part of a major facility upgrade to maximize production efficiency and capacity in the durable water-repellent finishing and coating line to meet growing customer demand for advanced engineered products.

“We are pleased to be a key partner in Graniteville Specialty Fabrics’ modernization project,” said Rick Stanford, Baldwin’s vice president of Global Business Development, Textiles. “The team reached out to us, and it was clear that the TexCoat G4 was the right tool to help them minimize waste and increase productivity.”

Fiber In The News

New York City-based Victor Capital Partners announced that an affiliate has entered into a definitive agreement to sell PrimaLoft Inc. to Compass Diversified. PrimaLoft is a developer of advanced insulations and fabrics that global brands use to deliver high performance and comfort while also reducing impact on the environment. Based in Latham, N.Y., PrimaLoft technologies are integral components that balance innovation, performance, and sustainability, and have been widely adopted in the finished products of over 950 brands.

Victor Capital acquired a majority interest in PrimaLoft in 2017 in partnership with the management team, which maintained a significant investment in the business.

The more than 950 global brand partners of PrimaLoft include outdoor brands Patagonia, Helly Hanson, LL Bean, and Arc’teryx; athletic brands Nike, Adidas, lululemon and Athleta; fashion/lifestyle brands Polo Ralph Lauren, Stone Island, J.Crew and Prada; and home goods brands The Company Store and Boll & Branch. PrimaLoft also offers a licensing program, providing its technologies and branding to an expanded set of nonwoven and other textile markets.

Dyneema® Sold

Cleveland-based Avient Corp. completed its purchase of the protective materials business of DSM (including the Dyneema® brand), which will now be called Avient Protective Materials and reported within the company’s Specialty Engineered Materials segment.

“With the addition of the Protective Materials business, we have significantly increased the size of our fastest growing platform and firmly established Avient as a leader in the advanced composites space,” said Chris Pederson, president, Specialty Engineered Materials, Avient.

The foundation of Avient Protective Materials is the renowned technology and globally admired brand of Dyneema, the World’s Strongest Fiber™. The ultra-lightweight specialty fiber is 15 times stronger than steel and is used in demanding applications, such as ballistic personal protection, marine and sustainable infrastructure, renewable energy, industrial protection and outdoor sports. The business includes six production facilities, four research and development centers and approximately 1,000 employees located around the world.

BFT Purchased Lumberton Cellulose

Bast Fibre Technologies Inc. (BFT), a manufacturer of premium natural fibers, completed its purchase of Georgia-Pacific’s Lumberton Cellulose LLC. The Lumberton, N.C., site is a highly automated state-of-the-art manufacturing facility with approximately 25 employees that will now operate under the new name of BFT Lumberton.

BFT plans to significantly expand capacity to over 30,000 metric tons per year, establishing BFT Lumberton as one of the largest fully integrated natural fiber processing parks in North America.

“As changes in consumer preferences and single-use plastics legislation drive demand for alternatives to synthetic fibers, consumer brand companies are seeking to manufacture products using fiber with minimal ecological impacts,” said BFT President Jim Posa. “The BFT Lumberton plant will produce all-natural, clean, soft, compostable fibers that are capable of displacing synthetics fibers in many nonwoven and textile applications and will bring valuable cleantech sector jobs to the local community.”

In addition to the planned capacity increase, the acquisition of the Lumberton facility diversifies BFT’s natural fiber offerings allowing entry into complementary product categories for cosmetic cotton, filtration, hygiene, and other nonwoven applications.

Hemp Investment Continues

FyberX Holdings, a developer of technology to process raw agricultural biomass into refined natural fibers, will invest $17.5 million to establish its U.S. headquarters and production operation in the former Kinderton Distribution Center building in Mecklenburg County, Va. The new facility will process hemp and other agricultural products, producing fibers to supply the textile industry, and will create 45 new jobs.

“Industrial hemp fiber has great potential in Virginia, and FyberX can unlock that potential and create a sustainable market for the Commonwealth’s hemp producers, with its investments into the processing infrastructure for this crop,” said Secretary of Agriculture and Forestry Matthew Lohr. “I commend FyberX for their bold vision and commitment to bringing this needed infrastructure to Southern Virginia.”

“Southern Virginia is strategically positioned to play a vital role in unlocking the economic potential of industrial hemp fiber in a variety of markets including textiles, construction, packaging, automotive, and bioplastics,” said Ben Young, FyberX CEO.

FyberX was founded in 2019 to build the foundational infrastructure required to process raw agricultural biomass into refined natural fibers, creating more environmentally friendly manufacturing solutions. The company focuses on industrial hemp sources in the United States. and will use its technology to process hemp for use in sustainable replacements for the textile, packaging, and construction industries.

Too Many To Cover

The year 2022 was a healthy year for textile investment and the preceding announcements are just a snapshot to illustrate the breadth of interest in U.S. textile investment. There were many additional investments in fiber though finishing — like the investment in retrofitting at TSG Finishing’s plant in Hickory, N.C.

Still many other investments go unreported because of privacy requests and the competitive nature of the business.

TW editors try to report what they can, and if textile investment is of particular interest, keep an eye on TW’s “New Plant & Equipment, M&A” section under the news menu on TextileWorld.com.

Let’s see if 2023 — an ITMA year — shows continued growth and strength.

January/February 2023

Kontoor Brands is examining its manufacturing processes to look for ways to reduce energy and its carbon footprint.

TW Special Report

It is unequivocal that anthropogenic carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions are causing climate change. The rate of these emissions is unmatched in the last 2,000 years of human history¹. Consequently, the world has been experiencing unprecedented climate extremities. From devastating flooding in Pakistan and the United States, to a record-breaking heat wave in the United Kingdom, 2022 saw many climate anomalies².

The consensus among scientific communities is that the global temperature rise needs to be kept below a 1.5°C rise from preindustrial levels during the period 1850-1900. Beyond this point, the world may experience far more catastrophic climate change effects on its people and ecosystems1. Keeping the temperature rise at less than 1.5°C requires halving global carbon emissions by 2030 from 2010 levels and achieving net zero by 2050. In plain terms, this decade — from 2020 to 2030 — is the last window of opportunity for humanity to redefine the climate future.

Kontoor Brands — owner of iconic Wrangler® and Lee® brands, among other brands — recognizes this urgency and sustainability is an end-to-end commitment included in the company’s strategic priorities. It is aware that the global fashion industry contributes roughly 2 percent of carbon emissions — approximately 1.05 gigatons of CO2 equivalents — every year³. Hence, Kontoor constantly is looking for ways to improve any part of the processes used to manufacture its products to reduce the impact on the planet and the people living on it. At the end of 2022, Kontoor submitted its Science-Based Targets (SBTs) to align its emissions reduction strategy with the 1.5°C climate target. SBTs are enterprise-wide binding commitments to reduce CO2 emissions, overseen by the Science-Based Targets initiative (SBTi)⁴.

Through a corporate carbon footprint assessment, Kontoor has found that product related emissions account for approximately 78 percent of its carbon footprint, excluding consumer use of product (See Figure 1). This refers specifically to the emissions associated with the extraction, development, and processing of products’ raw materials as well as the assembly of final products including packaging. Breaking it down further, spinning accounts for about 20 percent or one-fifth of the total product related emissions (See Figure 2). Therefore, it is beneficial to explore alternative options to reduce emissions from spinning, and Kontoor is currently examining the feasibility to expand open-end spinning in all denim and related products.

What is Open-End Yarn?

Open-end (OE) yarn is a type of yarn that can be produced without using a spindle. In OE spinning, the roving process is omitted, and the sliver is fed directly into a rotor after the drawing process. The fineness of the yarn can be altered by adjusting the rate at which the fibers are drawn out of the rotor relative to the rate at which fibers are fed into the rotor. The process is based on principles of centrifugal force. Imagine the fibers are pressed into a groove on the inside of the rotor until the desired count is achieved.

The primary difference between OE yarns and ring-spun (RS) yarns is the process used to form the yarn. RS yarn is formed by inserting twist into a continuous strand of fibers. A piece of OE yarn is formed by collecting individual fibers from the inside surface of a rotor and combining them using centrifugal forces. RS yarn may be described as formed from the outside in, while OE yarn is formed from the inside out.

Where Are These Yarns Used?

OE yarns often are found across multiple product categories in basic apparel. However, use of OE yarn remains in the minority, with RS yarn accounting for around 70 percent of the yarn used for clothing purposes today⁵. OE yarns are often found in towels, where the yarn works well for both feel and water absorption. As technologies and processes continue to evolve, the applications for OE yarns also are evolving. With the sustainability gains of OE yarns, more opportunities for application are on the horizon.

What Makes OE Spinning Different From Ring Spinning?

Less Time and Energy — The primary difference that makes OE spinning a better process than ring spinning is its high efficiency. OE spinning has fundamentally fewer steps in its process than ring spinning. Since OE spinning only requires one pass of drawing — versus two passes for ring spinning — and no roving frame procedure, it is a faster process than ring spinning.

Cem Yalcin, head of Sales and Marketing for Switzerland-based Saurer AG, described OE spinning as “unbeatable in productivity and energy savings.” Considering only the spinning process of OE compared to ring spun, it is simply faster in this area as ring spinning machines are relatively slower. The OE process is faster because of the remarkably high rotor speed in OE machines. Figure 3 shows a direct comparison of the output of a ring spinning machine versus an OE spinning machine using a typical denim yarn in the time frame of one minute. The graph illustrates the glaring difference in speed. The elimination of roving and winding steps leads to yarn production speeds that are six to eight times faster than ring spun yarns^6,7,8. Also, with fewer steps, the floorspace required is less for the OE spinning process.

Along with improving efficiency, having less steps in the process also results in reduced workforce requirements. Brad Johnson, vice president of Manufacturing at Cone Denim, estimated that for the full ring spinning process, approximately three to four times as many operators are needed than are required for OE spinning. Despite the need for fewer operators for OE spinning, the output is still considerably higher. Great advances actively are being made in the automation stages of OE spinning, requiring even fewer operators. For example, optical and capacitance systems are able to continually assess fiber characteristics, such as linear density, making it possible to quickly identify and remove faults or mistakes, often automatically. A study from Das and Alagirusamy⁹ predicts that there are possibilities of full automation of the yarn spinning process within the world of OE spinning. This concept also typically results in tighter statistical controlled processes from a quality perspective. While full automation of mills has not yet been realized, full automation is much closer with OE spinning than it is with ring spinning, according to experts at Saurer.

The shortened process and improved efficiency greatly affects the energy consumed during OE spinning, which creates a meaningful sustainability advantage when compared to ring spinning. There are multiple publications and reports that compare the energy usage of the two spinning methods (See Table 1). OE spinning consistently uses less energy than ring spinning, with reductions as high as 57 percent.

Based on the most recent numbers from the United States Energy Information Administration¹⁰, the OE spinning energy savings are equivalent to a minimum of thirteen cents per kilogram of yarn produced. When that number factors towards the hundreds of thousands of kilograms mills produce weekly, it becomes significant.

Less Waste Generated — Besides energy savings, OE spinning generates less fiber waste when compared to ring spinning. Cheryl Smyre, director of Advanced Materials at Parkdale Mills, shared the variance in waste between OE spun yarn and RS yarn (See Figure 4).

Recycled Fiber Usage and Circularity — The OE spinning process also offers advantages when it comes to compatible fiber types. OE spinning can utilize shorter fibers, while ring spinning can only use fibers of a minimum length and high uniformity. The use of shorter or lower grade cotton fiber in OE spinning processed does not compromise yarn integrity and allows yarns of the same quality to be produced using less expensive cotton than the ring-spinning process. In addition, it is easier to process recycled fibers in the OE spinning process. Although ring frames can process almost all fiber types, more short fiber content tends to result in a higher number of yarn breaks and higher wastage. Therefore, the quantity of recycled fibers used in RS yarns is considerably lower compared to OE yarns. Switzerland-based Rieter¹¹ evaluated the unevenness of RS and OE yarns as a function of torn recycled fibers (See Figure 5). Figure 6 shows the range of acceptable fiber sizes for different spinning methods.

For acceptable yarn quality and operational reliability, a blend containing up to 75-percent recycled content is possible in OE spinning. With ring spinning, recycled content is typically kept below 25 percent⁶. OE spinning offers the opportunity to better utilize recycled materials versus ring spinning where recycled fiber use is more limited.

The need to recycle fabrics already is on the rise in some regions. France recently passed a law to combat waste that makes the destruction of unused textiles illegal. Such waste must be recycled or donated¹². Other regulations have been proposed in the European Union that call for a mandatory minimum use of recycled fibers for fashion companies by the year 2030. Circular material flows — such as reuse and recycling — also is recommended in IPCC’s¹³ climate change mitigation strategy. The ability to utilize recycled fiber for apparel products is something that will become increasingly important in the coming years and OE spinning will be a helpful strategy.

What Are the Limitations?

One of the main obstacles of OE yarn relates to its strength and durability. A study from Cary, N.C.-based Cotton Incorporated¹⁴ found that OE spun yarn was 10- to 30-percent weaker than RS yarn on average. In addition, light man-made fibers such as polyester cannot be effectively spun alone using the OE spinning process. For instance, a durable, but exceptionally lightweight garment likely could not be produced using OE spun yarn.

Another common concern when comparing OE to RS yarn is the fact that RS yarn is easily placed on a core while OE yarn is not. Core spinning is the process of spinning fibers around a pre-existing yarn core. The core can be comprised of different yarns. For example, a polyester core would add strength to the garment, while an elastic core would allow the garment to stretch. This stretch property is especially important when making modern slim fit and skinny jeans because certain level of stretch often is incorporated for comfort as well as the ability to expand and adjust. The required stretch can be conferred by a spandex core yarn in the center of the cotton. Though this is one of the drawbacks of OE, technology is being developed that enables stretch yarns to be produced on OE spinning machines.

One example of this technology is the Rotona process developed by Rieter. The process involves wrapping OE-spun yarn around a core that can be elastic or non-elastic¹⁵. Another solution to this problem is to use a combination of OE and RS yarn in products that require a degree of stretch. While it is no argument that a garment made entirely out of ring-spun yarn with an elastic core would certainly stretch more, the combination of OE yarn and elastic RS yarn may be sufficient for some consumers and products.

One non-technical drawback to this combined option would be to address consumer perception, as most consumers are used to the feel of the standard RS fibers. OE spinning produces a slightly coarser yarn count, and the structure of the yarn itself is slightly different than RS, with OE-spun yarn having fewer parallel fibers. An OE-spun yarn cannot currently be produced in the same caliber of fineness that a RS yarn can. It is difficult to produce finer yarns above 40 Ne with this system; this does not pose a major challenge in denim manufacturing, as denim yarns range from 10 to 30 Ne. These variances result in a slightly different hand — one that the consumer may notice when purchasing products. For a heavier fabric, such as denim, these attributes of OE-spun yarn are not as much of a concern.

Kontoor’s Plans For OE Yarn

Kontoor has submitted a science-based target in line with a 1.5°C temperature reduction scenario. As shown in Figure 2, yarn spinning accounts for roughly 20 percent of Kontoor’s product related emissions. Hence, innovation in cotton spinning processes would produce a notable reduction to the company’s overall carbon footprint. For example, an internal analysis from Quantis revealed that replacing 50 percent of Kontoor’s current ring spun volume with an OE process can potentially save 6 percent emissions from scope 3, which are defined as value chain emissions. Therefore, the potential impact of OE spinning cannot be ignored.

OE spinning offers advantages in a wide array of distinct aspects of the garment-making process. The process requires fewer workers, less energy and factory floor space, and produces less waste, while increasing efficiency, opportunities for automation, and opportunities to recycle fibers. When viewing all these advantages, OE spinning is a more sustainable choice when producing garments. In addition, overall cost savings, including the cost of lower grade cotton, makes it a financially viable strategy.

Kontoor encourages spinning machine manufacturers to continue innovating. The future of the spinning process relies on finding ways to increase efficiency to decrease waste and emissions. Kontoor also encourages other brands to consider the possibilities related to using OE spinning for some or all of their product lines. The potential positive environmental impact is substantial. At Kontoor, sustainability is defined as the dynamic process of continual improvement for its people, product, and planet. In support of this, the company is always searching for innovation and activities that can improve performance relative to these objectives. Kontoor views OE spinning as an area that can impact the sustainability of apparel products. As a good steward in the sustainability space, Kontoor hopes to see other brands pursue these same types of initiatives.

Every Action Counts

Limiting global warming to less than a 1.5°C rise would require accelerated and far-reaching transitions in energy and industrial systems. It is a global issue, and everyone needs to pull together in every possible way. Each action towards emission reduction counts, no matter how big or small. From reduction in fossil fuel use to deployment of low-emission energy sources to energy efficiency and conservation, every opportunity needs to be seized in order to fight climate change. OE yarn spinning is just one of the many solutions available. Kontoor is hopeful that this will catalyze others and that the fashion industry will be able to do its fair share to deliver on climate targets.

References

¹ IPCC (2021). Summary for Policymakers. In: Climate Change 2021: The Physical Science Basis. Contribution of Working Group I to the Sixth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. https://www.ipcc.ch/report/ar6/wg1/downloads/report/IPCC_AR6_WGI_TS.pdf

² NCEI (2022, Sep 14). Assessing the Global Climate in August 2022. NOAA. https://www.ncei.noaa.gov/news/global-climate-202208

³ Ley, K., Perkins, L., van Mazijk, R., Gaines, R. & Hugil, R. (2021). Unlocking the trillion-dollar fashion decarbonization opportunity: existing and innovative solutions. Apparel Impact Institute & Fashion for Good. https://apparelimpact.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Aii_UnlockingTheTrillion-DollarFashionDecarbonisationOpportunity_Report_v11.pdf

⁴ https://sciencebasedtargets.org/

⁵ Singh, M. K., & Nigam, A. (2013). Effect of various ring yarns on fabric comfort. Journal of Industrial Engineering, 2013.

⁶ Goyal, A., & Nayak, R. (2020). Sustainability in yarn manufacturing. In Sustainable Technologies for Fashion and Textiles (pp. 33-55). Woodhead Publishing.

⁷ Kiron, M. I. (2021, January 28). An overview of open-end rotor spinning. Textile Learner. https://textilelearner.net/an-overview-of-open-end-rotor-spinning/#:~:text=The%20production%20rate%20of%20rotor,used%20in%20
cotton%20carded%20spinning.

⁸ Dr. Tai Mac, Saurer, personal communication, 2022

⁹ Das, A., & Alagirusamy, R. (2010). Fundamental principles of open end yarn spinning. In Advances in yarn spinning technology (pp. 79-101). Woodhead Publishing.

¹⁰ United States Energy Information Administration. (2022, July 26). Electric Power Monthly. U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA). https://www.eia.gov/electricity/monthly/epm_table_grapher.php?t=epmt_5_6_a

¹¹ Rieter (2021). The Increasing Importance of Recycling in the Staple-Fiber Spinning Process. Switzerland: Rieter Spinning

¹² Casert, R. (2022, March 30). EU to propose new rules to discourage consumers against Fast Fashion. PBS. https://www.pbs.org/newshour/world/eu-to-propose-new-rules-to-discourage-consumers-against-fast-fashion# :~:text=New%20rules%20proposed%20by%20the,conditions%20in%20the%20garment%20industry.

¹³ IPCC (2022). Summary for Policymakers. In: Climate Change 2022: Mitigation of Climate Change. Contribution of Working Group III to the Sixth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. https://www.ipcc.ch/report/ar6/wg3/downloads/report/IPCC_AR6_WGIII_SPM.pdf

¹⁴ Cotton Incorporated. (2003). Introduction to open end Spinning – Cotton Incorporated. Retrieved August 5, 2022, from https://www.cottoninc.com/wp- content/uploads/2017/12/TRI-1004-Introduction-to-Open-End-Spinning.pdf

¹⁵ Hehl, R. (2004). Rotona: An open-end core yarn, especially suitable for denim. 59-61.

¹⁶ Rieter (2015). Processing Indian Raw Cotton. Switzerland: Rieter Spinning

¹⁷ ITMF (2008). International Comparison of Manufacturing Costs, Spinning/Weaving/Knitting, Sweden: International Textile Manufacturers Federation.

¹⁸ ITMF (2010). International Comparison of Manufacturing Costs, Spinning/Weaving/Knitting, Sweden: International Textile Manufacturers Federation

¹⁹ ITMF (2018). International Comparison of Manufacturing Costs, Spinning/Weaving/Knitting, Sweden: International Textile Manufacturers Federation.

²⁰ Kaplan, E., & Koç, E. (2010). Investigation of Energy Consumption in Yarn Production with Special Reference to Open-End Rotor Spinning. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe.

²¹ Kaplan, E. & Koç, E. (2007). An Investigation on Energy Consumption in Yarn Production with Special Reference to Ring Spinning. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, (4 (63)), 18-24.

Editor’s Note: The following people contributed to this article Brad Johnson, vice president of Manufacturing at Cone Denim; Carole McFee, senior director of Quality Assurance and Product Stewardship of Jeanswear at Kontoor Brands; Cem Yalcin, vice president, head of  Sales and Marketing at Saurer; Cheryl Smyre, director of Advanced Materials at Parkdale Mills; Dhruv Agarwal, vice president – Sustainability, Innovation, Development at Kontoor Brands; Jacob Knego, developer, Textile Research at Kontoor Brands; Jeff Frye, head – Sustainability, Innovation, Product Development, Procurement at Kontoor Brands; Jordan Brewster, manager of Global Sustainability Engagement at Kontoor Brands; Lauren Fields, senior manager of Global Sustainability Data and Reporting at Kontoor Brands; Logan Fortenberry, Sustainability intern at Kontoor Brands; Matthew Hawthorne, Sustainability consultant at Quantis; Randy Fortenberry, Former Supply Chain executive; Dr. Sarif Patwary, senior Sustainability Analyst at Kontoor Brands; Dr. Tai Mac, vice president, director of Business Line Open-End Spinning at Saurer.

In addition, the paper was reviewed by Dr. Rong Yin, assistant professor, Textile Engineering, Chemistry and Science, Wilson College of Textiles, North Carolina State University; and Larry Hubbard, associate director, Fiber Processing and Spinning, Cotton Incorporated.

Figures 1 and 2 as originally published in the print version of “Sustainable Denim Production Using Open-End Versus Ring Spun Yarn,” TW, January/February 2023, have been updated online. The numbers disclosed in the new figures shown here are the most accurate and up-to-date. The changes were warranted based on an update in footprint accounting methodology. 

January/February 2023