2022 Polartec Apex Award Winners Announced

SPARTANBURG, S.C. — November 28, 2022 — Polartec®, a Milliken™ & Company brand, and premium creator of sustainable textile solutions, is excited to announce the winners of the 2022 Polartec Apex Award. The annual design award celebrates the brands and designers that push the boundaries to turn Polartec fabric technologies into inspiring products. The winning garments — selected from hundreds of entries based on skilled and creative uses of Polartec fabrics — exemplify the pinnacle of form and functionality across sport, lifestyle, and performance categories.

The winners of this year’s Polartec Apex Award highlight design solutions that emphasize versatility, sustainability, and convert classic traditions into modern concepts. The 2022 Polartec Apex Design Award winners are:

Berghaus MTN Guide MW Hoody — The MTN Guide MW Hoody is a performance mid-layer that manages the delicate balance of warmth, breathability, and moisture. By using different weights of Polartec Power Grid™, the garment removes the bulk for a better fit and increased breathability in high heat areas. The addition of an innovative Polartec Power Wool™ internal neck gaiter provides custom-tuned warmth that can be easily used with the hood up, down, or tuck it out of the way when not needed. Due to Polartec Power Wool’s unique bi-component construction, combining the properties of both natural and synthetic fibers, you get the ultimate in next-to-skin fabric performance.

Judges’ Verdict:  Berghaus was thoughtful in its use of multiple Polartec® fabrics, both in terms of genre and weight.

Element x Millet – MXE – P EDGE FLEECE LTD PO and MXE – P FLEECE LTD PANT — An incredible convergence of design, inspiration, and upcycling innovation blends seamlessly between vintage Millet styling curated with deadstock Polartec 200 Series Recycled Fleece and Element’s artistic touch blends in this cozy collection.  Millet and Element’s teams breathed new life into leftover fabrics, creating a unique color-blocked look while providing unparalleled comfort and warmth. With greater resiliency, lightweight warmth and fast dry times, Polartec fleece remains the industry standard for outerwear performance since its inception in 1981.

Judges Verdict: We loved the sustainability story through Element and Millet’s use of discarded fabrics.

Haglöfs L.I.M Z|T Sync 1 Mid Hood & L.I.M Z|T Sync 2 Mid Jacket — Built for super rugged conditions, the L.I.M Series Z|T is a truly synchronized layering system challenging the common perception of expedition gear. The versatile new approach to layering elevates the “less is more” wisdom, utilizing a combination of Polartec Alpha®, Power Air™, and Power Dry® technologies. Through meticulous design and a selection of innovative Polartec fabrics, the pieces supply outstanding functionality when worn individually, but true ingenuity shines when they are combined, producing an average of 30-percent lower humidity within the layering system compared to that of conventional systems, according to Haglöfs. The result: reducing the feeling of being too hot or too cold and keeping body temperature stable through a wide range of activities and intensities.

Judges’ Verdict: Haglöfs delivered an innovative concept made possible through the multiple use of Polartec fabrics.

Houdini Pace Flow Houdi — Constructed of Polartec Power Dry — a superiorly advanced next-to-skin moisture management fabric — the super versatile Pace Flow Houdi offers high insulation, low weight and exceptional breathability. The open mesh fabric allows air to flow through and vent out any excess heat or moisture and when used in a layering system, will encapsulate a powerful layer of warm air — akin to the new generation of Polartec Power Air fabrics — that provides an exceptional level of insulation and thermal efficiency to create the perfect microclimate for high pace activities.

Judges’ Verdict: Houdini is known for its strong sustainability credentials and has delivered outstanding results with this new, recycled Polartec technology.

Indyeva Toga — An ideal blend of style and performance, this modern designed fleece tunic featuring Polartec Thermal Pro® for core body warmth is highly durable and pill resistant. With technical fiber compositions that maintain a soft texture and air pockets for thermoregulation and breathability, Thermal Pro advances fleece fashion with premium yarns for a cozy, resilient, and stylish finish. The thin and soft Toga tunic can be worn as an outer layer or an insulating intermediate layer under a shell without added bulk.

Judges’ Verdict:  Indyeva’s unique application of Polartec fabric also features attention to detail and undeniable style.

KUIU Wind Pro Fleece Full Zip — Dead quiet, low-sheen, and highly wind resistant, the first-of-its-kind printed Polartec Wind Pro® fleece hunting jacket is versatile as an early-season outer layer or as a late-season mid-layer that achieves high-level protection without a noisy windproof membrane, ensuring unrestricted breathability for maximum comfort. Engineered with a compact knit surface structure for up to 4x greater wind resistance than regular synthetic fleece, Wind Pro adds brawn to deflect the elements while still maintaining soft comfort and lightweight warmth.

Judges’ Verdict:  Kuiu presented us with a challenge that led to innovative results for both brands.

Moncler Grenoble Peyrus Hooded Jacket & Shorts — Designed for an active lifestyle in a retro inspired mountaineering silhouette, this ripstop hooded jacket & shorts are made with a wind-proof lining and hydrophobic Polartec Alpha that regulates warmth and provides exceptional breathability. Alpha continuously releases excess body heat before it builds – an adaptive quality that is made possible through Alpha’s lofted fibers connected to a solid mesh core. This active insulation resists all moisture, is incredibly fast drying, and highly compressible, making it the ideal piece for on and off the mountain.
Judges’ Verdict: Moncler Grenoble’s Peyrus Hooded Jacket and Shorts offer technical excellence for outdoor adventures with their exceptional breathability.

Nonnative Dweller Cardigan Poly Fleece — Reimagining the esteemed cardigan silhouette as a high performing technical garment, utilizing Polartec Alpha Direct fabric providing warmth while continuously releasing excess body temperature to maintain comfort and coziness. Alpha Direct active insulation technology allows for direct contact with skin and other fabric layers due to the refining of the shape and size of its lofted fibers — this new design ability not only increases breathability performance but expands versatile style options. Japanese label, Nonnative, has gained a following for its fresh takes on traditional American workwear, upgrading them with contemporary fabrications to blend practicality and style — an approach that gained attention through this inventive utilization of Alpha Direct.

Judges’ Verdict:  Nonnative’s cardigan is on-trend and features high performance fabric – the perfect combination.

Pearl Izumi Pro Alpha Layer — Designed for cyclists, this innovative midlayer featuring Polartec Alpha Direct fabric transfers moisture with breakaway speed, keeping riders dry and comfortable throughout a wide temperature range in an extremely lightweight, packable, insulative, and thermoregulating garment with unparalleled breathability and drying times. By refining the shape and size of its lofted fibers, Alpha Direct active insulation continuously releases excess body heat before it builds to cause saturation and discomfort, and being hydrophobic, it resists moisture and dries incredibly fast for unparalleled performance and versatility.

Judges’ Verdict: We were impressed by Pearl Izumi’s focus on versatility through clever use of fabric for year-round appeal.

Santini Alpha Pack Vest — A revolutionary new garment designed for gravel cyclists seeking protection from cold and wind, the pack vest combines a unique version of Polartec Alpha with Wool for superb moisture management properties and natural thermoregulation. Alpha active insulation is engineered for consistent warmth while allowing for greater breathability and fast drying during activity, and maintains a highly packable, low-weight structure — all critical benefits for year-round, all-weather cyclists.

Judges’ Verdict: Santini has successfully adopted this new Polartec® technology to create an on-trend garment for gravel cyclists around the world.

SCARPA Ribelle Run Kalibra G — Applied for the first time to a trail running shoe, Polartec Windbloc® provides water resistant, breathable, and comfortable protection for seriously gnarly conditions in the Ribelle Run Kalibra G trail shoe. Designed for mixed terrain and extreme conditions, the shoe’s gaiter is constructed of a unique Polartec polyurethane membrane that defends against the harshest elements of wind, water, and cold temperatures, while still allowing moisture vapor to permeate outside for maximum comfort and breathability.

Judges’ Verdict: Scarpa’s developed an impressive trail running shoe.  A world-first and genius pairing of Polartec technology for high performance.

Thrudark Centurion Alpine Jacket — A versatile technical softshell jacket incorporating a unique combination of two Polartec powered fabrics and one enhancing technology.  Designed as a midlayer for advanced technical pursuits, the Centurion Alpine Jacket is forged with Polartec Hardface® technology, fused at the fiber level to increase abrasion resistance and water repellency without compromising breathability. In addition to the bomb-proof exterior, it also includes Polartec Power Stretch for ease of movement and Polartec Power Air, capturing air to retain body heat in cool environments. Designed as the ultimate all-mountain piece, the Jacket is perfectly suited for a diverse range of outdoor disciplines.

Judges’ Verdict: ThruDark’s tried and tested Centurion Alpine Jacket uses multiple, sustainable Polartec fabrics to create a jacket that will withstand extreme use.

Every Apex Awards winner is an embodiment of Polartec fabric innovation and design inspiration, celebrating the science of fabric and the art of product design. Each winner will receive a coveted Malden Wizard trophy in celebration of their winning designs, in addition to joint marketing support. The Apex Awards also feature a “People’s Choice” contender — voted on by the public via Polartec social media platforms — and will be announced in the coming weeks.

Posted: November 29, 2022

Source: Polartec®, A Milliken & Company Brand

Sperotto Rimar Offers Smart And Eco-Friendly Solutions For Textile Finishing

TRISSINO, Italy — November 29, 2022 — The finishing sector is a significant stage in the value chain contributing to a wide range of properties in the textile end-use. Bringing an ideal look, touch and functionality to many different applications is a real challenge for machine manufacturers. Smart innovations are needed. And customers also demand solutions that respect both valuable resources and the environment. The Sperotto Rimar portfolio combines both ingenuity and sustainability, to meet these goals — and customer needs which can be discussed with the real experts at upcoming India ITME.

Sperotto Rimar follows two energy-saving strategies in machine development for fabric finishing. The first aims at technology which skips one or more production steps, to shorten the finishing process. Equally important is the use of innovative components such as motors, electrical and electronic controls, which can significantly reduce energy consumption.

Optimizing finishing processes is another way to save energy. The highest potential for energy saving today would come from reducing the use of steam, water or electricity in processing, and adopting technical solutions to limit, or partially recover, the energy consumed.

Short process, big impact

The Decofast decatizing machine offers significant energy savings with the substitution of a discontinuous process. On certain fabric types, it allows users to skip one pass of direct steaming with pressure. This shortened process results in lower energy consumption and requires less labor. The technology enabling more sustainable decatising was actually introduced at the beginning of 2000 – long before finishing customers demanded machinery with reduced environmental footprints or urgent solutions for energy-saving needs

Less steam, less energy

The Universa fabric relaxing machine can be used wherever relaxing, shrinking and bulking effects are required. It has wide application in different finishing fields — from wool to synthetic fabrics. Universa was designed to drastically reduce steam consumption. Tests prove that 30% less steam is needed compared to traditional technology. Conclusively, the machine needs 30% less energy – while achieving the expected quality results.

Recycling and closed loops

Nova has been a success for the past 50 years and is still the most eco-friendly solvent scouring machine – and the ideal alternative to traditional water scouring for the washing of synthetic fabrics. The technology has been continuously improved and therefore it facilitates excellent cleaning performance on various materials. Most of all, Nova convinces ecologically-sensitive finishers by its mastery of recycling. The machine recycles more than 99% of the chemicals used in the process.

Traditional scouring machines need a critical amount of water and detergents, which then must be treated as effluent. They also effect a relatively low level of oil elimination from the fabric. Nova solvent-based scouring is eco-friendly, as it works with a closed loop system in which air and solvent are properly treated and recycled. The fact that it takes 10 times less energy to dry solvent than to dry the same amount of water is an additional environmental plus for Nova. Furthermore, it almost totally removes the oil contained in the fabric, so that no polluted fumes are released in the subsequent thermic processes (heat-setting).

Compas – sustainable prime example

Sperotto Rimar’s Compas open-width compacting and finishing machine for knitted and woven fabrics uses an indirect water-cooling system to reduce the compacting belt temperature. With this system, the water is recovered by passing it through a chiller to keep its temperature at the right level. This technology can save about three cubic meters per hour. This water, totally unpolluted, can be continuously recovered and re-used in the machine. Traditional technology uses nozzles to spray water on the belt surface. The disadvantage of this is that the water is then discharged into the drain, contaminated with fluff and other products contained in the treated fabric.

Another feature enables a minimal environmental footprint through technology-based process optimization. Chemicals used before the dry finishing process are typically softeners or resins to enhance the final appearance and touch of the fabric. These are then transferred to the final garment. It is possible to reduce significantly the level of such chemicals, since the machine partially compensates for the effect of these chemicals. Thanks to its unique compacting method, Compas imparts a silky touch, only partly attributable to the softeners used, while mainly deriving from the special materials in the machine design.

Natural stretch is usually obtained by inserting elastane (a synthetic elastic yarn) during the weaving phase. The elastane itself, however, is difficult to deteriorate. Compas ensures the same degree of elasticity but with a final product that is 100% `natural´. Thanks to technology, saving the environment no longer means end-users have to compromise on the touch and feel of fabrics.

Sperotto Rimar inside

Know-how and experience – with a creative and successful development team – can make a big difference to finishing machinery design. Underpinning this, Sperotto Rimar always chooses machine components from latest-generation technology, aiming to save as much energy as possible. For example, the motors installed are of the IE 3 type.

The focus of Sperotto Rimar is to develop a range of effective solutions, which make the most of textiles, in a sustainable way. Continuous technological innovations result in a smaller environmental footprint without compromising final fabric quality.

Sperotto Rimar on-site! Experts offer first-hand information about sustainable solutions for finishers at upcoming India ITME. Sperotto Rimar (member of Santex Rimar Group) welcomes visitors at the Group’s Booth H5F5 in Hall 5 at IEML in Greater Noida, Uttar Pradesh.

Posted: November 29, 2022

Source: Sperotto Rimar

AATCC Announces 2023 Board Of Directors

RESEARCH TRIANGLE PARK, NC — November 29, 2022 — This fall, AATCC members elected their 2023-2024 representatives to the board of directors. All officers will begin their term on January 1.

Andrew Fraser

President-Elect

Andrew Fraser, Textile Color and Sourcing Solutions, will serve two years as president-elect before continuing to president for two years, and finally immediate past president for two years. Fraser will be a member of the board for all six years, providing continuity and guidance to the association. When Fraser become president-elect, John Crocker, SDL Atlas, becomes president and Harrie Schoots becomes immediate past president.

Interest Groups

AATCC members participate in one or more interest groups to network, learn, and share ideas with like-minded colleagues. Each member may select one “voting” interest group from which they elect representatives to the AATCC Board.

The Chemical Applications interest group elected Sabyasachi Gaan, Empa as chair; Brian Alloway, Azelis, as secretary; and Dennis Scheer, SST Technology Solutions, as at-large member.

Tom Stutts, Color Solutions International, and Tammie Rollins, UL, were each selected to serve a second term representing the Concept 2 Consumer interest group. Stutts will continue as chair and Rollins will continue as at-large member.

The Materials interest group also re-elected an experienced slate of officers. Christina Rappa, WL Gore, will serve a seconds term as chair and Apurba Banerjee, Glowforge, will reprise her role as at-large member.

AATCC’s newest interest group is Rising Professionals. The group is focused on supporting individuals as they embark on a career in textiles. Members include recent graduates as well as seasoned professionals transitioning from other industries and those who just want to learn more about navigating opportunities for growth. The Rising Professionals interest group elected Jessica Brooks, WL Gore, as chair and Bryan Ormond, NC State, as at-large member.

Regions

AATCC members belonging to a local section had the opportunity to elect a Regional representative to the Board.

Beginning in 2023, Patrick Ayers, Noble Biomaterials, will represent the Central Atlantic Region, which is comprised of the Delaware Valley, Hudson Mohawk, and NY-Metro sections.

Nelson Houser will continue to represent the Midsouth Region made up of the Piedmont Section. Houser has served on the board in many capacities, including as president.

The New England Region, covering the New England Section, elected Bethany Pollack, Draper Knitting.

Ashis Kumar Samanta, Calcutta University, was re-elected to represent the Southeast Asia Region. This region is currently composed of the India Section.

The Southern Region, including the Ozarks and Texas Sections will be represented by Ashley Handley, UL.

Western Region is comprised of the Northwest and California Sections. The region re-elected Karen Muhlin, The North Face, as its representative with an impressive 100 percent of the valid ballots.

Constitutional Amendments

Members also voted on approval of several amendments to the AATCC Constitution. This ballot is extended to December 23. If approved, the changes will take effect immediately.

Opportunities

While AATCC Board elections only occur every two years, there are many ways to get involved. Taking a leadership role on a committees or task group is an excellent way to make connections and gain valuable experience. To learn more about available opportunities, contact Diana Wyman, AATCC Executive Vice President (diana@aatcc.org) or any board or staff member.

Posted: November 29, 2022

Source: AATCC

Sustainable Plant Solutions For The Manmade Fiber Industry In India And Bangladesh

REMSCHEID/NEW DELHI — November 24, 2022 — The Swiss Oerlikon Group’s Polymer Processing Solutions division will be presenting itself at the ITME 2022 under the banner of ‘From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens’. The international trade fair is taking place in the India Exposition Mart Ltd, Noida, close to New Delhi, India. Between December 8 and 13 this year, more than 1800 exhibitors and over 150.000 visitors are expected. Oerlikon will be presenting a broad range of products and services focused on manufacturing and processing manmade fibers. Oerlikon’s team of experts is very much looking forward to seeing you at booth C15 in Hall 11.

In addition to various new component exhibits from the fields of continuous polycondensation including gear metering pumps, filament (POY, FDY, IDY, BCF) and staple fiber spinning, texturing as well as nonwovens production, the dialog with all customers will now more than ever after almost 6 years without an ITME in India be again at the center of the trade show activities.

For Oerlikon, this will be the third major appearance in the region in the fourth quarter of this year, after having had in November two exciting and interesting customer events in Daman, India, and Dhaka, Bangladesh. This is also because the important markets of India and Bangladesh are currently still standing out in terms of their investment behaviour and currently offer good opportunities for further polymer processing projects. More than 250 participants discussed the technology and market analysis presentations held by Oerlikon experts, at the Oerlikon Technology Symposium in Daman, India. Afterwards, all guests celebrated the 100th anniversary of Oerlikon Barmag and the 75th independence of India with a big gala event.

India right now continues to have above-average economic growth with a 6.8% Gross Domestic Product (GDP) for 2022. Experts speak of “a bright spot in a global gloom”. Some facts and figures:

  • The textile industry in India is one of the largest in the world with a large raw material base and manufacturing strength across the value chain.
  • India is the 2nd largest producer of MMF Fiber. India is the 6th largest exporter of textiles and apparel in the world.
  • India became the second-largest manufacturer of Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) kits in the world.
  • India is the 6th largest producer of technical textiles with a 6% Global Share (12% CAGR), the largest producer of cotton and jute in the world.
  • The industry contributes to 7% of industrial output in value terms, 2% of India’s GDP and 12% of the country’s export earnings.
  • The share of textile, apparel and handicrafts in India’s total exports was 10.62% in 2021-22.
  • The textile industry in India is one of the largest economic sectors that contributes the most to job creation in the country. It engages 16.73 lakhs of people consisting of 10.28 % of the total employment share.
  • The domestic apparel and textile industry in India contributes 2.3% to the country’s GDP, 7% of industry output in value terms.
  • The domestic textiles and apparel industry stood at USD 152 bn in 2021.

“Major growth of textiles will come from Manmade Fiber industry”, said Shri Piyush Goyal, Union Minister of Textiles, Consumer Affairs, Food & Public Distribution and Commerce & Industry at the end of October in India. He suggested that the industry should understand each other and work in synergy to amicably resolve the issues among the producers and users of polyester in the entire value chain. Industry representatives responded that they are hopeful of achieving the export of 100 billion USD in the next 5 to 6 years.

Success in the markets

In India, however, things continue to go very well for Oerlikon in other respects. In the middle of the year, the joint venture Oerlikon Barmag Huitong (Yangzhou) Engineering Co. Ltd. also recorded a major success. Oerlikon was able to commission a 300 tons per day film-grade continuous polycondensation plant at the Indian customer Sumilon.

Sumilon Industries Limited started in 1970, with trading activity and first manufacturing in 1977. Currently the largest manufacturer and exporter of metallic yarn and one of the leading manufacturers of BOPET film, metalized film, and lacquered film. Sumilon has always been committed to the goal that quality is everything, creating new technologies and enabling safer materials for all.

In fact, the COVID-19 pandemic has also had a serious impact on the project, such as project site installation, commissioning, start-up and so on. But the teams of Oerlikon and Sumilon worked closely together, constantly exploring new train of thought, entirely guiding on-site installation and commissioning, remotely controlling DCS system to run, and using modern means of hardware and software, the one-off start-up of 300T/D CP plant has been smoothly achieved, and the device is now stable in operation.

Growing with the second largest exporter of textiles

Bangladesh still has huge potential, especially for the manmade fiber industry. In the so-called downstream (weaving, knitting, finishing, etc.), the country is already very advanced, but what is missing is its own raw material production (MEG, PTA) and its processing in a continuous polycondensation plant, as supplied by Oerlikon. With Modern Syntex, however, the first “From Melt to Yarn and Fibers” plant is currently being built in Chittagong, Bangladesh, under our leadership. Some facts and figures:

With more than 164 million inhabitants, Bangladesh is the eighth largest country in the world in terms of population. This makes it one of the most densely populated countries in the world.

The economy of the up-and-coming country continues to grow rapidly, even during the Covid-19 pandemic, and the poverty rate has been halved since 2000. By 2026, Bangladesh will have officially left the status of a Least Developed Country (LDC), and by 2041, the country aims to become a high-income industrialized country (HIC).

Bangladesh’s economic success is primarily based on its textile industry, which accounts for 10% of the gross national product and 80% of the export earnings.

Bangladesh is the world’s second largest exporter of textiles.

With a colourful and informative event, held in the capital Dhaka, more than 200 invited guests celebrated the 100th anniversary of Oerlikon Barmag and the 50th anniversary of independence and liberty of Bangladesh. The Mayor of Dhaka, Md Atiqul Islam, emphasised the importance of the textile industry for his country and held out the prospect of further investments, especially in the field of manmade fiber production.

Posted: November 28, 2022

Source: Oerlikon

Mogul To Start A New Bicomponent PET Line

BASPINAR-GAZIANTEP, Turkey — November 28, 2022 — Mogul is scheduled to start a new PET bicomponent line in Q3 of 2023.

The new line will have same core/sheath tiptrilobal filament cross section type bicomponent PET spunbond line configuration as first line but will provide some improvements and additional features compared to first line. Mogul PET bico fabrics are sold under Buffalo brand.

The new bicomponent pet line will provide area thermal bonded flatbonded fabrics in round and tiptrilobal filament shapes in low denier, with an estimated weight range of 17-180  grams and line width of 365 cm (144’’) and name plate capacity around 6,000 metric tons per year. As a key player in the PET spunbond segment Mogul also runs two mono PET spunbond lines with point and flatbond as well as round and trilobal section filaments sold under Mopet brand.

The new line will mainly target hi-tech applications like filtration, automotive, composites, home care, etc.

Posted: November 28, 2022

Source: Mogul Tekstil Sanayi ve Ticaret A.Ş.

PICANOL At India ITME 2022

IEPER, Belgium — November 28, 2022 — INDIA ITME 2022, which will take place from December 8-13, 2022, at the India Exposition Mart Ltd (IEML) Greater Noida (Delhi), is the largest textile exhibition of its kind in India. As India is the most prominent textile hub in the region, Picanol will be presenting all its latest high-tech weaving machines and services at the event. Picanol will be exhibiting in Booth A6B5, Hall 14, where three high-tech weaving machines from the OmniPlus-i Connect airjet generation will be on display. Furthermore, one OptiMax-i Connect machine will be shown at the Bonas booth. Meanwhile, all of the state-of-the-art functionalities of Picanol’s new digital platform, PicConnect, will also be demonstrated at the Picanol booth.

Picanol has been successfully serving the Indian market since 1956. In light of the potential and expected growth of the Indian market, Picanol decided to set up its own organization in India in early 2008. The aim behind this move was to ensure an optimal proximity to the customer, in terms of both service and sales. In the meantime, Picanol India has grown into a team of 42 people, who serve our Indian customers in all of the main textile areas. Picanol has three offices situated in India: Coimbatore, Mumbai, and the main office in New Delhi, which also has a print repair station that is equipped with the latest technology.

“This set-up, which is combined with the high-performance Picanol weaving machines, has enabled us to acquire a leading position in the Indian market. Clear proof of Picanol’s dedication to the Indian market is its continuous investment in facilities and people. In this regard, we proudly opened our new head office in Delhi in April 2012 followed by further extension of office space to provide enhanced services to more customers in March 2022. We also continue to reinforce our Sales and Service team so that we can support our customers in the best possible way with all of the challenges they are facing,” explains Mr. Kasiviswanathan Palanisamy, Director of Picanol India.

Details of the Picanol weaving machines that will be on display:

  1. OmniPlus-iConnect-4-P-190 Poplin

A proof how a lighter fabric segment can benefit from the OmniPlus-i Connect platform. Digitization, maximum flexibility and running the highest speed.

  1. OmniPlus-iConnect-2-P-280 Ladieswear

Weaving light filament fabrics without having to choose between speed and flexibility. Reaching the required high fabric quality standards becomes even more easy with the increased inbuilt stability of the insertion system

  1. OmniPlus-iConnect-4-D-220 Denim

The digital loom! A machine that is driven by data, relying on smart performance, with sustainability always in mind.

  1. PicConnect Corner

PicConnect is Picanol’s digital platform for customers, offering a wide range of features, from industrial IoT to service-related applications. Visit the PicConnect corner of the Picanol booth to discover everything you need to know about this platform. All of the weaving machines at our booth will be connected to PicConnect. Be sure to attend one of the live demonstrations that will frequently take place throughout each day of the exhibition.

  1. OptiMax-iConnect-8-J-380(Bonas-Hall14A-Booth2B1)

Posted: November 28, 2022

Source: Picanol

James Heal Celebrates 80 Years Of The Martindale Textile Tester

HALIFAX, England — November 28, 2022 — England-based textile testing solutions provider James Heal this year marked a number of significant milestones, most recently the iconic Martindale abrasion testing instrument manufactured by the company reached the 80th anniversary of its invention.

Probably the most widely used abrasion testing machine in existence, the Martindale was designed by Dr James Graham Martindale. Whilst working at the Wool Industries Research Association, Dr Martindale was tasked with devising a machine to test the wearing properties of carbon-impregnated fabric during World War 2, a textile intended to protect against gas attack. The first machine was then constructed by Stanley Dilworth, the workshop head at WIRA in 1942, as the original Martindale abrasion tester.

Subsequently during the 1950s James H Heal as the company was known then, developed its own Martindale, it is believed with the collaboration of Dr Martindale. The new James Heal Martindale offered the benefit of a pre-determined electric counter, which stopped the machine automatically when a pre-set number of rubs was reached.

The Martindale is still today a core laboratory instrument for testing the effect of wear on materials, such as abrasion and pilling of textiles, also carpets, leather, even wood. Over the years further capabilities have been added with a wet testing model, the AquAbrasion being added to the James Heal range to give a real-world dimension to testing, for example with chlorinated water, sunscreen or hand sanitizer.

Former apprentice Laurence Turner who started working at James Heal in 1973, recently visited the company and recounted many fond memories of working in Lake View Mill in Halifax, having been taught to build the Martindale instrument. During his visit, Laurence distinctly recalled working on the production of the Martindale, his colleagues in the factory and the original clocking in machine that has recently been restored back to its former glory as part of James Heal’s 150th anniversary year celebrations.

The Martindale range continues to go from strength to strength and is still one of James Heal’s best selling products. Managing Director, Neil Pryke comments, “Since the early days of the Martindale, we have continued to respond to consumer trends and market demand to develop and improve our flagship instrument. We have sold thousands of Martindale instruments over the decades, underpinning our position as a leading supplier and innovator in precision testing instruments. Our Martindale series continues to evolve keeping our product Innovation team very busy. Look out for exciting news on further developments to this classic instrument!”

Established in Halifax, West Yorkshire in 1872, James Heal design and manufacture textile testing instruments, which are sold worldwide. The brand became part of the wider PPT Group in 2014, with a number of sister brands each focusing on testing many aspects of materials and products.

Posted: November 28, 2022

Source: James Heal

GRDXKN In Cooperation With PUMA — Goalkeeper Gloves With Ultra Grip

MUNICH, Germany — November 28, 2022 — The 4D-GRDXKN printing technology has found a new possible field of implementation in cooperation with PUMA: Goalkeeper Gloves. PUMA’s ULTRA line is designed to meet and exceed all the demands of the modern goalkeeper.

Puma now calls the Ultra Grip 1 Hybrid models one of the lightest, fastest and most flexible gloves on the market. GRDXKN founder and developer Bastian Müller said: “The development of the ULTRA gloves is also a milestone for me. As we were able to expand the functions, increase the performance and thus prove once again what we can achieve with GRDXKN.”

Thanks to the GRDXKN toolkit, the global sportswear company PUMA and the German start-up GRDXKN developed a unique aesthetic that comes with special features. The performance is transferred to the gloves through specially developed printing pastes and a special printing technique.

The glove gains grip while remaining lightweight and flexible.

On the one hand, the use of the exclusive GRDXKN printing application on the backhand gives the glove stability and ensures perfect ball control when hitting. On the other hand, the GRDXKN-print creates grip when fisting the ball. Another advantage is the very high wearing comfort, as the material is extremely light and is applied directly and seamlessly to the backhand. Added to this is the low abrasion and thus the very high resistance of the glove.

Puma says, “The gloves are packed with technologies that ensure the highest performance on the market.” At the European Women’s Football Championship, German national goalkeeper Merle Frohms wore PUMA goalkeeper gloves with GRDXKN technology. Currently, therefore, the national goalkeepers of England (Jordan Pickford) and the Swiss team (Gregor Kobel), among others, are equipped with the Ultra line.

GRDXKN® is a 4D printing technology. It enables the printing of functions. At the same time, the weight of the textiles remains low and flexibility high. The integrated, volume-forming material is abrasion- resistant and shock-absorbent (tested). The printing technology transforms substrates into smart textiles. This cohesive material combination creates new application fields for textiles. The EU-Patent is registered.

Posted: November 28, 2022

Source: GRDXKN

LENZING™ ECOVERO™ Eco Viscose As Sustainable Botanical Alternative

Jayaraman Sethuraman

By Jayaraman Sethuraman

Sustainability has not only become a key consideration for consumers and brands alike, it has also become one of the biggest and most consistent trends the fashion industry has ever observed. For consumers, this has evolved over time to include other considerations, such as comfort and longevity. Materials that can tick most boxes are preferable for consumers but can be hard to come by due to several reasons. For example, the sourcing of natural fibers has become more unstable as global supply chains have faced challenges in recent times. Extreme weathers caused by climate change has also hampered the crop yields of raw materials, causing supply instability.

The price of cotton, one of the key cellulose fibers used in the market, has been fluctuating in recent times due to a lack of acreage, yield, climate change, low opening stock as well as increased production cost caused by a rise in energy price and shipping costs. As prices continue to fluctuate, retailers and manufactures are increasingly looking for quality alternatives with more price stability.

While supply chain players have the option of synthetic alternatives, they do not address the need of consumers who are becoming increasingly aware of the shortcomings of synthetic fibers. Known to be more breathable than synthetic fibers and bring more comfort to users, there is a rising demand for cellulose fibers to cater for both comfort and sustainability in textile products, opening the door for wood-based fibers to be viewed as an alternative to cotton.

As a wood-based cellulosic fiber, viscose is often preferred by price-sensitive spinners and fabric markers in the market. Out of the 7 percent wood-based cellulosic fibers consumed globally, 76 percent of the fibers are viscose. Despite the popularity, viscose has historically been perceived to have a negative impact on the environment due to the methods adopted by many manufacturers, where toxic chemicals and non-renewable energy sources are often used to process the fibers.

Hence, to reduce environmental footprint of finished products, it is important to look into the sourcing and production process of the viscose fiber. For instance, the wood and pulp used in the production of LENZING™ ECOVERO™ viscose fibers come from certified and controlled sources following the stringent guidelines of the Lenzing Wood and Pulp Policy. In addition, the production process of Lenzing Ecovero branded specialty viscose fibers has up to 50-percent lower water impact and up to 50-percent lower carbon emissions when compared with conventional viscose fibers, as confirmed by the Higg Material Sustainability Index. Certified by EU Ecolabel for textile products and ranked among the top global viscose producers in the world, Lenzing Ecovero offers a sustainable eco-viscose choice that answers consumers’ need for comfort and sustainability.

Editor’s Note: Jayaraman Sethuraman is senior commercial director for AMEA & NEA textile business, Lenzing AG, Austria.

November 22, 2022

Does The Pareto Principle Work In Spinning?

Assessing its role with Uster contamination control in yarn production

TW Special Report

Profitability is obviously a basic requirement for spinners, so how might they benefit from applying wider economic ideas alongside established ways of improving mill productivity? This article examines contamination-controlled spinning from the viewpoint of one such well-known concept — the Pareto Principle — and assesses its validity in a yarn production environment.

In the late 19th Century, Italian economist Vilfredo Pareto made the initial observations on which the Pareto Principle is based. Also known as the 80-20 rule, it suggests that in many cases only 20 percent of the effort put in will account for 80 percent of the result. This imbalance between input and output has been used in business to choose priorities and focus on the most effective areas to bring the greatest reward. Although not a hard and fast rule, the Pareto Principle can help to increase productivity and efficiency in industrial settings.

Specifically, it can be applied to determine best practice in some elements of spinning when focused on contamination control.

Small Effort, Big Effect

Experienced spinners know that contamination control in the blowroom exactly follows this principle. Correct positioning of the fiber cleaning system — at the point where the fibers are most open — is crucial. Contaminants might otherwise be hidden inside bigger tufts, but not with Uster Jossi Vision Shield at the fiber opening stage.

Uster Jossi Vision Shield is backed by 20 years experience. Conventional camera-based systems cannot match its performance. Operating across a much greater wavelength, Uster’s spectroscopes can find contamination even within the ‘invisible’ range of IR and UV light. Fragments of contamination in light pastel colors and white also pose no problem.

The Final Check

Any remaining contamination or defects will then be identified and removed by the final-stage check at the Quantum 4.0 yarn clearers, which will ensure the yarn meets customer requirements. The good news for spinners wondering about capacitive or optical clearing for a new production line, or for retrofit, is that Uster Quantum 4.0 has both capacitive and optical sensors, applicable to different yarns and changing conditions.

The Non-Pareto Effect

The second part of the Pareto concept — that the ‘other’ 20 percent of the results require 80 percet of the effort, does not actually apply for contamination-controlled yarn production. The principle here is “managing remaining contaminants in yarns at minimum possible cost,”  and the solution is Total Contamination Control, which achieves far more than any 20/80 correlation! Total Contamination Control means precisely controlled contamination levels in yarns, with minimum waste as an integrated solution.

Total Contamination Control (TCC) balances ejections in the blowroom along with cuts in winding in the most advanced way. Uster Jossi Vision Shield and Uster Quantum 4.0 are two perfectly-linked systems in the production process, minimizing the risk of foreign matter quality issues and focusing on defined quality and profitability.

TCC is an Uster Value module with Quality Expert, which also reveals optimization potential to save costs. Data from Uster Jossi Vision Shield and Uster Quantum 4.0 combined with Uster’s long experience in contamination control, answer the following key questions in practice. What is the right level of contamination removal? How does fiber cleaning and yarn clearing achieve consistent levels of contamination that will satisfy the customer requirements? And how does it prevent waste of good material?

Beyond Pareto

Vilfredo Pareto of course couldn’t know, more than 100 years ago, about Uster’s preventive yarn clearing. This solution follows its own rules: preventive means that there’s no 20 percent or anything remaining needing extra effort, but there is security. The new combined clearing and enhanced detection modes protect yarn quality, while reducing cuts at the same time.

Furthermore, disturbing defects cannot pass, so that issues in downstream processes are prevented. Upstream, connectivity to Uster’s quality management platform contributes to preventive yarn clearing. Perhaps preventive yarn clearing could be called a 100/0 rule?

November 22, 2022

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