Fed Holds Steady While Economy Slows


T
he latest economic reports indicate the U.S. economy is gradually slowing down.
Meanwhile, rising energy prices pushed up sharply the inflation measures, but there is no evidence
of broad-based increase in prices. With the jobless rate at the lowest level since 1970 — 3.9
percent compared with 4.1 percent in August, the Fed will continue a tightening bias. Nevertheless,
no rate hike is likely in the near future.

Total non-farm payrolls rose by 252,000 jobs in September after falling by 91,000 in August.
After factoring out the return of 75,000 striking workers, and the release of 27,000 temporary
Census workers, the September gain was 204,000 — much better than the adjusted 17,000 gain in
August. A strong dollar, higher energy costs and weakness in export markets led to a loss of 66,000
factory jobs in September on top of a 117,000 drop in August.

The lower September jobless rate rekindled fears of inflationary pressures, which unsettled
the financial markets.

The Producer Price Index for finished goods shot up 0.9 percent in September, due mostly to
increases in oil, car and truck prices and the largest gain since February. Excluding food and
energy, the price index was up 0.3 percent.

Consumer prices rose 0.5 percent in August largely driven by a 1.6-percent increase in
apparel prices and higher tobacco prices, as well as increased energy costs, which rose 3.8 percent
after falling 2.9 percent in August. Core inflation was up 0.3 percent after rising by 0.2 percent
for five consecutive months.

Textile_Production_180

Index Of Textile Production (1992 = 100)


Factory Output On The Rise


Industrial production rose 0.2 percent in September, following a 0.4-percent gain in August
and a 0.2-percent decline in July. Factory output was up 0.3 percent despite a 2.2-percent drop for
transportation equipment. Third-quarter industrial output grew 2.8 percent at an annual rate, the
slowest gain since the first quarter of 1999 and a sign of slowing economy. The operating rate of
industrial capacity held steady at 82.2 percent in September, marginally up from the 1967-1999
average of 82.0 percent.

Housing starts rose 0.3 percent in September to an annual rate of 1.53 million units.
Single-family units were down 1.3 percent to 1.25 million. New construction was up 8.1 percent in
the Northeast and 8.6 percent in the West, but fell 2.6 percent in Midwest and 4.4 percent in the
South.

The U.S. trade deficit of goods and services narrowed in August to $29.44 billion from a
record $31.69 billion in July. Exports — led by capital goods, industrial supplies and automotive
products — shot up 3.6 percent to $93.02 billion. Imports rose 0.8 percent to $122.46 billion.

Business sales rebounded 0.5 percent in August from 0.6 percent in July, as durable goods
shipments rose 0.7 percent and non-durable sales grew 0.4 percent. Meanwhile, business inventories
grew 0.7 percent, causing the August inventory-to-sales ratio to edge up to 1.34 from 1.33 in July.


Textile Output, Utilization Rate Improve; Jobless Rate Eases


Results for textiles and apparel were mixed. Payrolls fell 0.2 percent in September after
edging up 0.1 percent in August. The volatile jobless rate for textile mill workers eased to 3.1
percent from 3.2 percent in August.

Textile output bounced up 1.4 percent in September after falling 2.9 percent in August. At
an annual rate, textile output tumbled 14.3 percent in the third quarter. The utilization rate for
textiles improved to 79.9 percent of capacity from 78.9 percent in August.

Textile shipments declined 1.0 percent in August, after falling 0.7 percent in July, while
inventories increased 0.4 percent, causing the August inventory-to-sales ratio to move up to 1.63
from 1.60.

Retail sales rose 0.9 percent in September, the largest gain since February. Motor vehicle
sales rose 1.4 percent after falling 0.4 percent in August. Sales of furniture and home furnishings
rose 0.8 percent and were up 0.2 percent for general merchandise. Sales fell 0.7 percent for
building materials and hardware. Apparel and accessory sales were up 0.4 percent.

Producer prices of textiles and apparel edged down 0.1 percent in September. Prices rose 0.2
percent for synthetic fibers and were unchanged for finished fabrics. Prices dropped 1.0 percent
for carpets, 0.7 percent for home furnishings, and 0.4 percent for greige fabrics and for processed
yarns and threads.

Textile_Barometers_179



November 2000

Cargill Dow Awarded Grant For Biobased Chemicals R And D

The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) has awarded more than $2 million to Cargill Dow, Minnetonka,
Minn., for continued research and development of the companys fermentation process for utilizing
annually renewable resources.The DOE administers two financial assistance programs in support of
President Bill Clintons executive order to triple U.S. use of biobased products and bioenergy by
2010. Cargill Dow will share equally with the DOE the $4.6 million budget for the projects.The
projects center on developing process technology for the fermentation of corn fiber and corn stover
to lactic acid and a number of other products. The results will help support the continued
advancement of Cargill Dows NatureWorks PLA, which is derived entirely from annually renewable
resources, as well as help develop other biobased products. Ultimately, Cargill Dows
fermentation-based manufacturing technology will be able to be used anywhere in the world, using
native agricultural by-products.NatureWorks PLA has applications in both fibers and packaging
markets. In packaging, potential end-uses include high-value films, rigid thermoformed food and
beverage containers, and coated papers and boards. New, emerging applications such as injection-,
stretch- and blow-molded bottles are also being explored.

Reshaping The Apparel Industry

Reshaping The Apparel Industry
Digital imaging, electronic color matching are in the spotlight at high-tech show.Bobbin
Americas 2000, held September 13-15 at the Georgia World Congress Center, Atlanta, focused on mass
customization and digital tech-nologies that offer the sewn products industry the opportunity to
reshape its business horizon. In addition, the show presented a host of network solutions, new
product premieres and educational events.A new feature of the exposition, according to Margaret
Crow, Bobbin Americas 2000 director of marketing, was The Digital Zone, with exhibits and
interactive digital production displays. The show also featured a Production Sourcing Expo, a
Fabric Sourcing Expo and a complete seminar program.

The shows Digital Zone, which was created and co-produced by the Cary, N.C.-based
TextileandClothing Technology Corp. ([TC]2), Bobbin Americas sponsor Miller Freeman, and 15
high-technology exhibitors, offered a look into the future of the sewn products industry.[TC]2, a
not-for-profit organi-zation supporting the apparel industry, announced the formation of ImageTwin
Inc., a joint venture with Truefinds.com Inc., a preferred stock subsidiary of Konover Property
Trust, Cary, N.C. The venture is the first Web-enabled 3-D digital body-scanning and measurement
system. The technology is designed to provide a definitive solution for accurate apparel sizing for
online, catalog and bricks-and-mortar shopping.ImageTwin is the culmination of a nine-year
development effort that resulted in a safe, white-light scanning process that generates extremely
accurate measurements in less than 12 seconds. ImageTwins in-store scanning station instantly
captures more than 200,000 data points of an individuals image, compiling a full 3-D representation
of his or her body. Proprietary software, in turn, automatically extracts dozens of sizing
measurements that can be used to create a perfect custom-fit garment or predict the appropriate
size of existing ready-to-wear clothing.The ImageTwin is part of [TC]2s overall strategy in
developing a more efficient apparel supply chain by increasing forecasting accuracy and reducing
merchandise returns, said Peter N. Butenhoff, president, [TC]2. [TC]2 also presented interactive
exhibits, demonstrating the power of integrated digital technologies in the sewn products supply
chain. There was also an opportunity to take a look at mass customization and virtual try-ons, as
well as digital fabric printing, all of which could become more and more a part of everyday
life.Customized Garments

At Gerber Technology, Tolland, Conn., also in The Digital Zone, Deborah Marconi, manager,
public relations, pointed to several products that will help manufacturers create customized
garments quickly.The individuals preferences as to style, color, size and fit are translated into a
unique garment. With such tools, manufacturers receive an order, generate patterns and markers, and
can digitally present the final product in minutes. Also, these tools eliminate the use of paper,
reduce the potential for inaccuracies, decrease turnaround times, and allow manufacturers to
realize greater profitability and repeat business.With Gerbers Made-to-Measure (M-T-M) software, a
garment is custom-made to the buyers preference. Manufacturers receive orders automatically through
mainframe, modem or internet connection, and M-T-M then creates the patterns and automatically
makes a marker. This facilitates the all-important quick turnaround.In addition, Marconi said
Gerbers new, automated plaid/stripe matching system, InVision, delivers thread-to-thread accuracy
and is now available from Gerber Technologies on its GTxL GERBERcutter. The units multitasking
operating system carries out matching and cutting operations simultaneously for optimum
productivity in the cutting room.InVision improves productivity by completely automating the
matching process, thus removing errors. It makes matching and cutting plaid and stripe fabrics as
easy as cutting solid fabrics, eliminating errors when using manual or semi-automated matching
processes.InVision contains an advanced camera and optics system to enable the operator to zoom in
on critical areas for added precision. In addition, its state-of-the-art lighting system and
imaging techniques achieve precise matching even through a plastic overlay. The system also cuts as
it matches.E-Business Solutions

Paris-based Lectra Systs offered its new e-business product that combines CAD/CAM, virtual
reality and the Internet to enable customers to create, manufacture and sell their products in a
fully electronic way, capitalizing on both their existing organization and new technologies.The
LectraOnline portal, launched in October, provides customers with online professional services and
facilitates secure data exchange between principals, subcontractors, textile companies and
retailers.Also on exhibit was the Lectra FitNet, which creates a virtual 3-D double of a person in
20 seconds thanks to its partnership with Tecmath, a German company specializing in computer
simulation of the human body. One can dress the 3-D double with a garment that is the right size
and personalized to suit the persons tastes, cut the garment in less than four minutes, and
manufacture it in under four hours.This procedure, with Lectras new 3-D virtual design
technologies, enables mastery of the way fabric behaves and faithful reproduction of its
draping.The LectraOnline portal will allow Lectra group customers to create garments automatically
in 3-D on the Web using existing models. During 2001, websurfers will be able to try clothes on
their own virtual mannequin, choose the right size or have the clothes altered to suit measurements
and styles.Lectra Systs is also involved in CAD/CAM systems for the upholstery industry, which is
being revolutionized by the new all digital model of design, as well as manufacturing solutions
that guarantee improved cut quality to the millimeter.The company incorporates all the links in the
chain with global, integrated CAD/CAM solutions that cover the whole textile process, from basic
materials to finished product in the upholstery industry.These solutions take in the full cycle,
starting from the virtual design of yarn and fabric and continuing through 3-D, CAD systems and
collection management; digital fabric printing for prototypes; automated fabric and leather
cutting; computerized technical data exchange; right up to virtual merchandising.Maureen Kelly,
marketing manager, Datacolor International, Lawrenceville, N.J., said that though everyone is
talking about communicating color, Datacolor is delivering it. With the companys Colorite program,
one can communicate exact colors electronically. Everything is calibrated, including print, for
true-color output. Kelly said Datacolors software instruments and services are designed to save
time throughout the entire color development process.The Colorite Studios offer an optimal viewing
area for the Colorite program, which is said to be an integral part of a revolutionary new Color
Information Management System (CIMS). CIMS is Datacolors complete computerized environment for
color measuring, matching, quality control and communication.Thus, designers, colorant suppliers,
and production staff can see and communicate color digitally, eliminating the need to mail color
samples between locations and cutting the cost of samples and development time in half. These
advantages allow companies to move rapidly with production, delivering products with savings in
administrative costs. 
Editor’s Note: Diane and Bob Wanger are freelance writers based in Nashua, N.H.


November 2000

Burlington Announces Improvement Plan

The Board of Directors of Burlington Industries Inc., Greensboro, N.C., has approved a five-point
plan to improve the companys future profitability and financial flexibility.We have outstanding
capabilities within Burlington, but our performance this year is disappointing, said George W.
Henderson III, chairman and CEO. Our results are due both to our own performance shortfalls as well
as difficult market dynamics in some of the markets we serve. We are capable of doing better and we
are committed to improving results.Among the current challenges Henderson noted are the trend
toward casual dressing, lower exports to Europe due to the weakness of the Euro, competitive
pricing in denim and reductions in interior furnishings product inventories at the retail level.The
steps outlined in the companys five-point plan include: realigning operating capacity, including
closing a plant in Johnson City, Tenn., reducing operations at the Clarksville, Va.,
PerformanceWear facility and reducing the size of the companys trucking fleet; eliminating
unprofitable businesses, particularly in the companys PerformanceWear segment; reducing overhead
through consolidation, cost reduction and job reductions; paying down debt; and eliminating excess
historic enterprise goodwill.The planned closings and overhead reductions will eliminate
approximately 950 jobs in the United States and 650 jobs in Mexico.We believe we have made a
realistic assessment of our business, and we are taking a series of actions that will capitalize on
our strengths and correct our weaknesses, said Douglas J. McGregor, president and COO. For example,
we are continuing to grow our top-performing Lees carpet business, which is enjoying its best year
in history. The effective execution of our five-point plan is critical to achieving better cash
flow and debt reduction, which will allow us needed flexibility to grow.We deeply regret the job
losses that are a necessary part of this plan, McGregor continued. We will do everything we can to
help the affected employees make the transition to other employment.

November 2000

Springs Hartwell Finishing Achieves Top Safety Honor

Springs Industries Hartwell Finishing facility, Hartwell, Ga., has received a Voluntary Protection
Program (VPP) flag for excellence in safety performance. This is the first VPP flag to fly at a
Springs Industries facility. Hartwell Finishing completed a rigorous process to qualify for the
VPP, which is administered by the U.S. Department of Labors Occupational Safety and Health
Administration (OSHA). The VPP process relies on cooperative efforts of facility management, labor
and government to monitor, measure and improve workplace safety.On average, VPP sites experience
about half as many injuries as their industry counterparts. About 650 workplace locations in the
United States are currently recognized as VPP sites.

November 2000

New Air Jets Provide Cost Savings In Air Consumption

Fibreguide Ltd., England, has extended and improved its range of single- and multi-position
interlacing air jets. The range now consists of 11 different air-jet types, including Detorque,
Detorque with interlace and oil dispersion jets. In addition, the company offers a wide range of
Interlace jets for the production of all types of continuous filament yarns, ranging from
micro-denier yarns up to BCF and industrial applications. Low-noise jet enclosures have also been
introduced to enhance the interlacing performances of the multi-position FG2M and FG10M air-jet
units, as well as the individual FG4 Jet.
2000

Rimoldi Presents Cup Seamer

The 255-00-01 cup seamer from Pittsburgh-based Rimoldi of America Inc. is a one-needle, double
chain-stitch machine with cup seamer feeding for assembly seaming fully fashioned knitwear with
10-5 mm gauge.Features include feeding with counter-rotating cups synchronized individually with
two separate motors; button-adjustable stitch length; chain-stitch pulling device, with rollers,
built into the sewing head; and a pumped lubrication system.
2000

Ahlstrom Completes Acquisition Of Dexter

Ahlstrom Paper Group, The Netherlands, a subsidiary of Ahlstrom Corp., has completed the
acquisition of Dexter Nonwoven Materials, Windsor Locks, Conn. Ahlstrom received Dexter shareholder
approval and regulatory approval from the European Union, the United States and other national
agreements, allowing for completion of the transaction.Ahlstrom and Dexter are examining how best
to integrate their businesses, and the process should be complete in early 2001. There will be no
immediate changes in conducting business. Because of the complementary nature of their operations
and increasing demand from the market, nonwovens units and employment in both organizations will
remain unchanged.

November 2000

Textile Testing For Quick Response

Textile Testing For Quick Response
New equipment from Habotex, Raitech accelerates testing time and improves accuracy.Quick
response and just-in-time delivery, hackneyed watchwords for the past decade, become increasingly
important as textile suppliers and purchasers alike seek to shorten the supply-side pipeline.
Quality considerations, mandated by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO), have
forced suppliers to update testing methods, explore opportunities for more rapid testing and
develop entirely new test methods. Organizations such as the American Association of Textile
Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), the German Standards Institute (DIN) and the Society of Dyers and
Colourists (SDC), have joined with the ISO to develop and implement test methods to measure, for
example, percent extractables after preparation, colorfastness after dyeing, and residual chemicals
following finishing.This report covers updates in two important areas: extraction of residual
unreacted chemicals and unremoved chemicals, and prediction of shrinkage and colorfastness to
repeated home laundering.The cost of purified water, steam and utilities in general forced European
textile mills to seek methods for improved preparation, while using a minimum of utilities. The
water used during washing was cut drastically to reduce the load to wastewater treatment, as well
as total energy requirements. Washers were redesigned to use more enhanced mechanical energy in
place of expensive thermal energy to remove contaminants from fabric. Attempts to continuously
ex-tract residual chemicals in real time were met with repeated frustration as streaks and face
deformation made unsaleable goods. The need for rapid testing still existed, and laboratories were
not always close by on the machine floor. Several ideas were evaluated before the first portable,
rapid-extraction units began to appear about five years ago.The Morapex A System And S System

The Morapex A95 and S95 systems, developed by Hans Bors of Switzerland-based Habotex,
gradually have made their way across Europe into textile mills, chemical supplier laboratories and
research institutes. The A unit was developed to offer easy, efficient and complete rapid aqueous
extraction without damage to the material being tested. The S unit was developed with DuPont
Teflon® coatings to handle all solvents. A pre-cut sample of fabric is not required.The A test
unit, which weighs only 8 kilograms (17 pounds), was de-signed to be carried or rolled onto the
factory floor. Once at the processing machine, an end from the latest piece of fabric processed is
placed between the two extraction heads. Approximately five milliliters of the eluting solvent is
then pumped from a small storage bottle to the center of the fabric and then radially through the
sample for a time ranging from 30 seconds to five minutes. The extraction solvent is then collected
in a channel around the edge of the lower head by suction and returned to a small test tube. The
extract captured in a test tube can be either visually examined for color or tested for pH, starch,
etc., by the usual tests. If a dyed and washed sample still has residual unfixed dye, the washing
conditions can be changed immediately without wasting time or continuing to process goods that
would have to be rehandled. More than 200 units of the A95 and A99 have been sold around the world
to textile firms, chemical suppliers and research and university laboratories. Only a few have been
sold in the United States.The improved A99 appeared recently and is being offered in the United
States. The new model contains three separate solvent bottles and provides computer-programmed
extraction temperature (20-98°C), processing time (0.5-5 minutes), and repeat extraction up to 250
processing steps all while maintaining the lightweight, portable features of the A95. Water- and
perspiration-fastness tests can be completed in one to two minutes compared to four hours in the
laboratory. Residual alkali, acid, salts, size, peroxide, and formaldehyde can all be removed and
evaluated. Because of the flexibility of the new model, a rapid simulation of all wet-processing
(for example, desizing, scouring, and bleaching) can be evaluated on a new fabric sample before
running a trial on full-scale equipment.A new test for residual formaldehyde can be completed in
approximately 20 minutes. The formaldehyde-containing extract is combined with an acetyl acetone
reagent and held for 10 minutes at 60°C in an electrically heated thermal block or in a water bath.
Residual formaldehyde forms a yellow complex that can be visually compared with a standard or
quantified at 412 nanometers using a transmission spectrophotometer. The test results compare to
the results obtained with the standard Japanese Law Method (En ISO 14184-1).The S99 model with
Teflon coating is designed for use in a laboratory for more robust extraction with all kinds of
acids, alkalis and solvents at 20-150°C, with cycle times of 0.5-41 minutes. Polyester/cotton
burn-outs can be achieved in minutes. Three two-minute extractions (six minutes total) with
70-percent sulfuric acid or phosphoric acid at 80°C gives results comparable to a 60- to 90-minute
laboratory process in a beaker. The shade of the remaining polyester is unaffected by the
extraction because of the short duration of the extraction.New applications for this portable
extraction technology are constantly being developed in other industries. For example, food
processors can quickly extract fat from sausages to ensure top quality; superabsorbent polymer
manufacturers can quickly determine saturation values; and residual formaldehyde can be determined
by major clothing stores without destruction of incoming merchandise. The applications are
endless.Quickwash Plus Fabric Testing System

Rapid response has mandated that processing times be reduced in the textile mill and in the
laboratory. Dimensional change testing was studied in the middle 1990s at the Swedish Institute for
Fiber and Polymer Research. A prototype machine was brought to the United States in 1997 and
commercialized by Raitech Inc., Charlotte, N.C., under the Quickwash Plus name. At the time, the
AATCC Test Method 61-1996 Wash Test and the AATCC TM 135-1995 Home Laundering Test required hours
to run samples through five cycles. Could an accelerated test be developed in each of these areas
that would be acceptable to the industry After several years of evaluations by Cotton Incorporated,
Cary, N.C., using various cotton fabrics, five different cotton dye class systems, and several
problem shades, the answer is yes. The Quickwash system could generate levels of fabric color
change that were similar to those generated in five home laundry tumble dry (HLtd) cycles. The
Quickwash program for shrinkage runs in 15 minutes; the wash test is complete in one hour, plus
five minutes to measure dimensional change, or 15 minutes to condition prior to color change
evaluation. This compares to nine hours required for AATCC TM 135-1995.In response to the testing
at Cotton Incorporated, AATCC Committee RA42 developed a new test method TM 187-2000, Dimensional
Changes of Fabric: Accelerated which has been accepted by JCPenney, MarksandSpencer plc and other
retailers. The accelerated dimensional change results are achieved by testing a relatively small
190-by-190-millimeter (8-by-8-inch) fabric sample at high rates of wetting, agitation, extraction
and air drying without the use of detergent. A microprocessor-based controller allows
preprogramming of each component of the test cycle to create custom test programs for a wide
variety of fabrics of different constructions and densities. By the summer of 2000, more than 250
companies involved in knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing, cut and sew, and retail had
purchased Quickwash Plus units.Raitech has developed a line of Quick products for in-lab testing
and fabric sample evaluation. These include: Quickdry, which dries the resulting wet samples in
minutes; Quickcut, which precisely cuts test samples in an automatic press; Quickpunch, which
punches precise, die-cut samples; Quicktemp, which precisely blends and controls wash-water
temperatures for washing machines; and Quickview, which allows quick and accurate measurement to
evaluate shrinkage.The demands of the industry have once again been met with new technological
advances that help improve response time, while improving accuracy and repeatability. 
Editor’s Note: Gary N. Mock, Ph. D., is a professor of textile engineering, chemistry and
science at the College of Textiles, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, N.C.

November 2000

China Opportunity Or Threat

China: Opportunity Or Threat
Serious questions linger over the benefits to the U.S. textile industry of normal trade
relations with China.
The decision by the United States to grant permanent normal trade
relations (Ntr) to China and that countrys expected entry into the World Trade Organization (WTO)
later this year has, perhaps, engendered more heated debate than any other trade issue in recent
memory. The issue transcends politics, geography and industry. It has staunch allies pointing their
fingers at each other and embittered rivals speaking in a unified voice. It is the salvation of
American agriculture and high-technology industry, or the death of smokestack America, depending
upon which side is talking. It is an issue that has economic, political and moral ramifications. It
at once sets up a clash of two radically different cultures and offers the opportunity for mutual
growth and understanding.And it is a definitive example of the fair trade versus free trade
argument.For those few readers who, perhaps, tucked their heads under the sheets several years ago
in hopes that they would wake up to find the issue had just gone away, following is some background
on how the whole situation evolved.What Is Ntr

First of all, a definition: Ntr refers to the general tariff treatment the United States
extends to foreign nations in return for reciprocal tariff treatments for U.S. exports. Ntr, also
known as most-favored-nation trade status, is accorded by the United States to more than 130
countries throughout the world. In fact, only six nations Afghanistan, Cuba, Laos, North Korea,
Serbia-Montenegro and Vietnam dont enjoy the designation.The United States has even more favorable
agreements in place with a number of nations, most notably its North American Free Trade Agreement
(NAFTA) trading partners.The United States suspended Ntr for China, the Soviet Union and all
countries in the then Sino-Soviet bloc in 1951. Ntr tariff status was restored conditionally to
China in 1980 under Title IV of the Trade Act of 1974, despite Chinas noncompliance with a key
amendment to the act. The Jackson-Vanik Amendment, targeted primarily to the former Soviet bloc,
specified that Ntr may not be granted to any non-market economy that restricts free emigration,
unless the President of the United States waives the restrictions for certain specified reasons.
From 1980 until now, the granting of Ntr status to China had to be renewed on an annual basis,
based on having a bilateral trade agreement in place and a Presidential waiver of the Jackson-Vanik
Amendment. President Clinton last renewed the waiver for China in June of this year. The current
bilateral trade agreement with China is in force until next year.A hotly debated bill granting
permanent Ntr status to China passed the U.S. House of Representatives in May. The Senate passed
the measure in September.The granting of normal trade status was among the last of Chinas obstacles
in its quest for membership in the WTO. Founded in 1995, the WTO is the successor to the General
Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT), estab-lished after World War II. The mission of the
organization is to monitor global trade rules and ensure orderly and fair implementation of trade
agreements.Chinas accession to the WTO is heralded by China/WTO supporters as a boon for the
economies of the worlds developed nations. With its huge population and heretofore-untapped market,
there is opportunity for considerable export and prosperity. Opponents argue that, while China does
indeed represent opportunity, reality is a different matter. China, they say, has made a mockery of
its trade agreements in the past, refusing to remove barriers to exports while engaging in illegal
product dumping to its trading partners.This, of course, is a somewhat oversimplified picture of a
very complex trade issue. And it doesnt take into account at all the delicate subjects of human
rights and the morality of purported free trade with a nation that, from the American viewpoint,
oppresses and sometimes massacres its own people.ATMI Opposition

Within the U.S. textile-apparel complex, there are several issues with which industry leaders
take exception.In 1995, all WTO members had to face a 10-year period during which the United States
would phase out its quotas on textile and apparel imports, said Roger W. Chastain, CEO of Mount
Vernon Mills, Greenville, S.C., and president of the American Textile Manufacturers Institute
(ATMI). China, on the other hand, would only have to face a five-year phase. As well, Chastain said
China continues to refuse to open its market to U.S. textile and apparel products, continues to
violate U.S. intellectual property rights and continues to illegally smuggle textiles and apparel
into the United States.The WTO has been ineffective in enforcing the bilateral and multilateral
agreements under which its members trade, he said. Citing a report entitled Promises Unkept: A
Report on Market Access for U.S. Textile and Apparel Products Five Years into the World Trade
Organization, a study commis-sioned by ATMI and completed earlier this year, Chastain said the WTO
has not provided market openings it promised, and the U.S. government has not taken action to open
those markets.The report takes an in-depth look at 27 textile- and apparel-exporting countries and,
according to Chastain, found that only four are open to U.S. textile and apparel products. Each of
those four were already open before the WTOs creation.This report shows what weve already known for
a long time the U.S. textile industry is doing business in an unethical, inequitable world,
Chastain said.The report cites numerous examples of how U.S. trading partners have circumvented the
intent of WTO and specific bilateral trade agreements. The United States, for example, granted
India increased access to its market, an action worth hundreds of millions of dollars, in exchange
for limited access to the Indian market. The report states India made the agreed tariff cuts but
then imposed special countervailing duties, citing balance-of-payment protocols against all of the
agreed-upon products. The result, according to the ATMI report, was a five-year escalation in
Indian imports, totaling $832 million, a 56-percent increase. Meanwhile, U.S. textile and apparel
imports to India remained under $20 million. The ATMI report cites similar circumventions of
agreements by other countries.Five years into the WTO, at least 16 major exporting countries,
including India, Pakistan, Egypt and Thailand, have failed to meet their WTO obligations and open
their markets to U.S. textile and apparel imports, the report states. In fact, this report could
not find a single country that is currently a major exporter of textiles and apparel to the United
States that has provided significant market access because of the WTO.

Dollar values of U.S. imports from and exports to China from 1988 to 1999The report
continued: It is vital that the WTO be reformed in order to ensure that competition is open and
fair. As a first step, the U.S. government must continue to reject efforts by developing nations to
increase U.S. access at a time when these very countries refuse to open their markets to U.S.
exports.ATMI opposed the granting of permanent Ntr to China and is against the acceptance of China
into the WTO. Ultimately, the two actions could cost the United States up to 150,000 textile and
textile-related jobs, $7.6 billion in lost apparel sales and $4 billion in lost textile sales,
Chastain said.This preferential treatment [Ntr status] will do nothing to change Chinas outlaw
behavior, nor will its membership in the WTO, he said. In fact, WTO membership will severely limit
the United States ability to act unilaterally to attack Chinas smuggling of more than $4 billion of
textiles and apparel into the United States each year. China has signed six bilateral textile trade
agreements with the United States and has broken every one of them. In addition, because the United
States has agreed to consider China a non-market economy, China will be able to continue to exploit
a loophole in the U.S. trade regulations and escape the U.S. countervailing duty law against export
subsidies. Let me stress that all U.S. manufacturers and their workers, not just those in textiles,
will be sitting ducks for Chinas subsidized exports.Why Support Chinas WTO MembershipIf the ATMI
stance is, indeed, a harbinger of things to come, why would anyone support Ntr status and WTO
membership for ChinaPresident Bill Clinton, in a statement after the Senate vote, said Ntr for
China will extend economic prosperity at home and promote economic freedom in China, increasing the
prospects for openness in China and a more peaceful future for all of us.The President, though,
stopped well short of echoing the position of those who aggressively support China and claim that
Ntr and WTO membership is a virtual guarantee of enhanced access by the United States to Chinese
markets. Ntr status will give the United States a chance not a certainty, but a chance to
strengthen our prosperity and our security and to see China become a more open society. Now our
test as a nation is whether we can achieve that. I hope and I strongly believe we will.When we open
markets abroad to U.S. goods, we open opportunities at home, the President said. [Ntr] will do
that. In return for normal trade relations China will open its markets to American products from
wheat, to cars, to consulting services. And we will be far more able to sell goods in China without
moving our factories there. But there is much more at stake here than our economic self-interests.
Its about building a world in which more human beings have more freedom, more control over their
lives, more contact with others than ever before a world in which countries are tied more closely
together, and the prospects for peace are strengthened.Trade alone wont accomplish this, Clinton
said, but bringing China under global rules of trade is a step in the right direction. The more
China opens its markets to our products, the wider it opens its doors to economic freedom, and the
more fully it will liberate the potential of its people.

He continued, When China finishes its negotiations and joins the WTO, our high-tech companies
will help to speed the information revolution there. Outside competition will speed the demise of
Chinas huge state industries and spur the enterprise of private-sector involvement.Vice President
Al Gore, the Democratic nominee for President, and Texas Governor George W. Bush, the Republican
nominee, both agreed with Clintons stance on China.[Ntr for China] will mean more good jobs for
American workers and more opportunities for American farmers and businesses, Gore said. Passage of
[Ntr] is important for our economy and our security, but it is only part of what we must do to
assure that Americas workers and interests will fully benefit from the global economy. We must
combat unfair trade practices abroad when they harm our working families. We must also be vigilant
in monitoring Chinas record on human and worker rights, non-proliferation and protection of the
environment.Said Bush: The stakes are high on all sides. For businesses, workers and farmers from
across our country, it will mean much lower trade barriers and enormous opportunities for U.S.
exports. For the people of China, it holds out the hope of more open contact with the world of
freedom. Trade with China serves the economic interests of America.No Division Along Party
LinesThis is one issue, though, that has no division along party lines. Those Senators and
Representatives who opposed the measure, while in the minority, did so vehemently.Sen. Jesse Helms,
R-N.C., called permanent Ntr for China the most ill-advised piece of legislation to come to the
Senate floor in my 28 years as a Senator. Will granting permanent most favored nation status to
Communist China advance the foreign-policy interests of the United States My genuine conclusion is
that by doing so, the United States Senate [made] a mockery of common sense. Communist Chinas
foreign policy has become increas-ingly antithetical to U.S. national interests during the past 20
years of so-called nor-mal trade relations. It is difficult to see how making the status quo
permanent will cause any improvement.Senator Ernest F. Hollings, D-S.C., a past Presidential
can-didate, opposed the legislation, saying Ntr, despite assur-ances otherwise, will likely
increase imports without providing increased exports and is likely to further the migration of some
U.S. industry offshore.U.S. Rep. Nancy Pelosi, D-Calif., in testimony before a House Ways and Means
subcommittee, said the Ntr designation begs the question of what normal trade relations are or
should be.Is trade with China normal when the U.S. trade deficit with China is surging every year
Is it normal that China continues to maintain barriers to U.S. goods and services entering the
Chinese market, including high tariffs, pervasive non-tariff barriers, non-transparent barriers,
non-transparent trade rules and regulations; restrictions on trading and distribution rights,
restrictive government pro-curement practices and restrictions on investment Is it normal that
China continues to pirate U.S. intellectual property, costing U.S firms an estimated $2.6 billion
in lost sales in 1998 and that China continues to utilize forced labor for production of exports to
the United States, in violation of U.S. lawShe continued, For 10 years, advocates of permanent
[Ntr] status have argued that economic reform would lead to political reform in China and that U.S.
exports to China would increase. Political reform has not happened in China. And, the increase in
U.S. exports to China as a proportion of total U.S. exports has been so small as to be practically
insignificant. In 1989, she said, U.S. exports to China totaled 1.65 percent of U.S. exports
worldwide. By 1998, that figure had grown to only 2.1 percent. Chinas trade surplus estimated to be
$85 billion this year enables the country to buy products, to buy political support and to buy
silence from countries throughout the world.Opportunities For U.S. TextilesWhat some see as a
potential economic disaster, others see as a potential windfall. Consider the case of Harold Hoke,
the new CEO of American Savio and Somet of America, both headquartered in Spartanburg, S.C. Hoke
shared his views about China in an interview with ATI (See Vision, Innovation Are Keys To
Viability, ATI, August 2000).Is this a potential problem for the U.S. industry he asks. Sure it is.
But more than that, it represents a real opportunity. China is, of course, a huge market, and not
all of it is captured by low-end products. There is demand in China an increasing demand for
high-fashion products of world-class quality. So in many ways, this could be a very good thing for
those American companies that will take advantage of it. I certainly would not be afraid of it
unless I didnt really understand it and didnt have a plan to capitalize on it.And there are,
indeed, provisions within the U.S.-China WTO agree-ment, negotiated in November 1999, that give the
United States certain enforcement rights, according to a policy brief published by The Brookings
Institution. Especially, the agreement contains a mechanism that allows the United States to
prevent textile import surges until the end of 2008. As well, it allows the United States to
continue to treat China as a non-market economy in anti-dumping cases for 15 years after Chinas
acceptance into the WTO. This generally results in the application of larger anti-dumping margins
against Chinese imports. The agreement per-mits the United States to implement for 12 years
product-specific safeguards to prevent large non-textile import surges from China and allows the
United States to impose harsher import restrictions on China than on other WTO members.Free Trade
Versus Fair TradeFree trade is, of course, the unfettered movement of products from one market to
another. Many proponents of Chinas WTO accession cite this as the most likely result of opening a
market that has 1.3 billion potential consumers. It promises, they say, to be a boon for industry
and agriculture and, perhaps, provides a means to instigate sweeping social changes within Chinese
society.Fair trade is the equal application of tariffs and other trading considerations among
partners in commerce, enabling products from one country to compete profitably with those from
another. It is the application of this principle that prompts most non-moralistic objections over
Chinas entry into the WTO. Of course, the 1989 massacre in Tiananmen Square, and other human rights
violations, provide ample reason for many to oppose trade with China. But textile leaders and
organizations such as ATMI see the likelihood of Chinese circumvention of trade agreements and an
American government unwilling to aggressively enforce its treaties. They see only lost jobs, closed
plants and the further erosion of one of Americas key industries.In the end, it is a matter of
perspective and philosophy. There is no doubt that Chinas entry into the WTO will create a wealth
of opportunity for some.But for others
November 2000

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