3M Uncovers Fraud,Offers New Thinsulate ProductsThrough its Product Authenticity and Selection System (P.A.S.S.), designed to address the issue of brand counterfeiting, St. Paul, Minn.-based 3M recently uncovered fraudulent use of its Thinsulate brand name on hang tags describing insulation used in a line of fingerless gloves. 3M worked with the manufacturer to identify the fraud. All the gloves were removed from the market and destroyed.In other news, 3M has introduced two new Thinsulate products. Thinsulate supreme insulation contains a special fiber coating that adds a luxurious, silky softness and drapability to Thinsulates breathability, moisture resistance, durability, warmth and comfort, according to 3M. It also is machine-washable and -dryable. Thinsulate insulation type g provides the standard Thinsulate attributes and is priced to compete with other low-cost insulation products.June 2002
Amendments To Flammability Act Introduced
Amendments ToFlammability Act IntroducedA movement is underway in Congress to amend and expand coverage of childrens sleepwear regulations under the Flammable Fabrics Act. Senators John Breaux (D-La.), Hillary Rodham Clinton (D-N.Y.) and Joseph Biden ( D-Del.) have each introduced legislation that would reverse a Consumer Product Safety Commission regulation that exempted childrens sleepwear sizes 0 to 9 months and tight-fitting sleepwear from the flammability regulations. In issuing the revised regulation, the commission said infants are not mobile and therefore are not at risk, and that tight-fitting garments will not support flames.The three bills would reverse that decision, but the Breaux bill goes much further than the other two. It not only would restore coverage of infants and tight-fitting garments, but also would extend coverage to what Breaux calls a functional definition of sleepwear for children up to seven years of age. That definition would include any garments that are sometimes used as sleepwear, such as togs, bunny suits and garments with cartoon characters that are attractive to young children.June 2002
Commitment To Quality
Commitment To Quality From Avondales various beginnings more than a century ago to the
present, a commitment to quality has guided the company. Quality is achieved by using the finest
raw materials, machinery and equipment, and keeps customer satisfaction at a high level.Early on,
the company involved its associates in a proactive implementation of quality assurance. The Zero
Defects Program, introduced in 1966, encouraged the associates to suggest ways to improve quality,
safety, customer service, maintenance and efficiency.Quality control is vital as Avondale
modernizes operations in each of its mills. Keeping up with the latest developments in
quality-monitoring technology, the company is using state-of-the-art equipment in every phase of
its manufacturing processes. 24/7 On-Line MonitoringRecent upgrades at Alexander City, Coosa
and Pell City include the latest Uster quality-monitoring software and equipment to provide a
comprehensive real time picture of the entire operation. Twenty-four hour quality monitoring allows
us to know what goes on at all points of yarn manufacturing, said Josh Morton, quality assurance
manager, Alexander City Yarns. Whereas before we were checking random samples daily, now we are
able to check samples every second of the day. At Alexander City, Usters Sliver Expert
monitors the carding process. Ring Expert, installed on the spinning frames to monitor production
and efficiency, records the number of ends down and pounds produced. Cone Expert and Quantum
Clearer at each winding position ensure final yarn package quality, detecting and cutting out
foreign matter, unevenness or hairiness in the yarn prior to winding.Finally, physical testing in
the lab is accomplished using Usters Lab Expert. The system includes UT4 to test for evenness,
Tenso Jet to test for strength and elongation, and the AFIS fiber information system.
At Alexander City, 12 30-position and 13 38-position Savio Orion 1 winders accomodate various
yarn counts. The Cone Expert system examines every winding position with Quantum Clearer monitoring
devices to ensure the highest quality. Coosa Plant also is using the Ring Expert and Cone
Expert systems, and Pell City is using Cone Expert in its winding operation.Usters Rotor Expert
system is installed at Tifton. Walhalla and Burnsville have added newquality-monitoring technology
to existing equipment. Improved monitoring in Avondales spinning operations helps detect
misperforming spindles and rotors and correct all problems before shipping of the final product. As
the company quips, One bad rotor can make a lot of bad yarn.Avondale says improved yarn quality has
led to dramatic improvements in fabric quality. Investments in greige mill quality have brought
point counts to an all-time low, and improved yarn strength has helped bring weaving efficiencies
to the highest levels ever.Investments at Gregg Plant are yielding consistently higher volumes of
first-quality fabric. Bigger barrels on A frames have reduced creases. Dye ranges are equipped to
reduce the amount of lint, thereby reducing spots on finished fabric. In the cloth room, cameras
mounted on machinery film every inch of fabric for on-line viewing and assignment of point
values.As Avondale pursues its commitment to invest in the most advanced machinery and equipment to
ensure quality in the manufacturing process, it is honing its competitive edge to succeed into the
next century and beyond.
June 2002
The Light Is Shining Brighter
A
ll spinning systems are running full and across most counts. One spinner said, “Ring
spinning is really going great. Open-end is also running pretty good, but demand is not as strong
as for ring-spun yarns.
Air-jet spinning is also much improved.” However, he went on to say, “With all of this good
news about running and operating at capacity, prices are still depressed. Retailers continue to
keep the squeeze on, pressing for that last penny — and that has driven the entire margin out of
the system for us. We are barely covering variable cost, and you know that we can’t survive like
this in the long run. Running flat out doesn’t always get it. We have to have margins. At some
point, we have to find a way to make some profit.”
There have been statements about restocking the pipeline and inventory when the economy
turns upward.
A spinner said, “What we are producing right now is going directly into the pipeline — none
of it is for inventory. And from what I hear, others that are running pretty good are producing to
satisfy orders. Not many are producing anything for inventory. Some are buying to help them meet
their commitment.”
“Things are getting much better,” responded another spinner. “Most are running at capacity,
six or seven days a week. Some plants that were in deep trouble a few months back have found new
life, and they are running full. Maybe the economic turn will be enough for them to survive for the
time being and really make it in the long run.”
Raw Material Prices Remain Low
Demand for U.S. cotton continues to be weak. Quotation for the base grade in the seven
designated markets averaged 29.43 cents per pound. This weekly average was down from 30.98 cents
per pound for the previous week and 47.22 cents for the corresponding week a year ago.
Most indications are that cotton prices will remain relatively low. There are high global
inventories, and domestic carryover was high. The farm bill that is in the works will give cotton
producers some relief and should further increase supply. Domestic consumption probably will not be
much different from last year.
The U. S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) estimates domestic consumption of 7.8 million
bales, up slightly from last year.
An interesting note: At a recent meeting of several textile manufacturers, one said, “There
is not enough spinning capacity in place in the U.S. to consume what the USDA has projected. The
USDA has projected a 7.8 million-bale consumption for the 2002/2003-crop year. The reason is
simple. There was a significant loss in spinning capacity last year. With this loss in capacity,
there is no way to consume that much cotton — even with all of the current mills running flat out.”
Some are saying we might be lucky if domestic consumption reaches just under 7 million
bales. Let’s hope consumption reaches 8 million. This would mean several plants would have to be
brought back on-line and consume a lot of cotton.
Domestic Versus Importer Products
One spinner said, “Have you ever heard that cotton ain’t cotton or yarn ain’t yarn or fabric
ain’t fabric?” He went on to say, “If you take a product from the shelf of a Wal-Mart/Kmart-type
store today and compare it to a product from the same shelf ten years ago, you will find that it is
probably a different product. In all probability, it is not the same cotton, yarn, fabric — or
perhaps there are small differences in construction. These are differences, maybe very subtle, that
the final consumer doesn’t see or isn’t even aware of. And if they aren’t aware or don’t know, then
this is a valid reason for not caring.”
This not knowing might be more of the reason that consumers “just” focus on prices. Some
might argue that if consumers were really aware and had an understanding of these differences in
product quality and performance, they might be more willing to spend an extra buck for the
difference.
Maybe it is an educational process. Letting the consumer know and understand that products
made in the United States are different from those substitute products that are imported is very
important. If they are not different in the consumer’s mind, we know what will happen. If they
really are not different in some way, then we have to make them different or go out of business.
June 2002
Getting It Right The First Time
By Gary N. Mock, Ph.D., Technical Editor Getting It Right The First TimeImproved dyes, processes ensure cost-effective, high-quality dyeing. There is a battle of titanic proportions taking place in the fiber world. Will it be polyester or cotton that emerges as the most-used textile fiber around the world Polyester has steadily increased its share of the world market and is expected to replace cotton as the leading textile fiber sometime in 2002. Industry sources predict that some 18 million tons of each will be used in the textile market far more than nylon, the nearest competitor. It is not surprising that leading dye manufacturers have concentrated their research and marketing efforts on dyes for these two traditional fibers. New Fiber-Reactive Dyes For Cellulosic FibersSwitzerland-based Ciba Specialty Chemicals now has three complete dye ranges for fiber-reactive exhaust dyeing: the Cibacron® FN range for warm dyeing; the Cibacron LS range, which reduces the amount of salt needed in dyeing; and the Cibacron H range for hot dyeing. New products include dyes for black formulations that offer versatility and more economy: Cibacron Black LS-N-01hc and Black W-US. The first is 10 percent stronger than the previous LS-N high-concentration and also is suitable for one-bath polyester/cellulosic dyeing in the LS Superfast process.Black W-US has outstanding build-up, and very good washing-off and wet-fastness; is dischargeable; and is available as a high-concentration formulation, according to Ciba. Also new are two greens that offer improved shade consistency and quality: Cibacron Green FN-BL and Green H-BL. New products in the H range include: Yellow H-G, Orange H-R and Red H-F.
Clariant AG, Switzerland, has nine dyes with outstanding fastness within the Drimarene HF range:Scarlet HF-3G; Blue HF-RL;Red HF-2B;Navy HF-G; Brown HF-2RL;Orange HF-2GL;Red HF-G;Yellow HF-R; andNavy HF-B. Each has a special function within the line. Scarlet HF-3G is the only one recommended for nylon as well as cotton. It is a very bright scarlet to be used as a straight color or in combination with Yellow HF-R, Orange HF-2GL and Red HF-2B for orange. Blue HF-RL is a reddish blue with good build-up and high lightfastness (co-complex), the company claims. It is best used in a ternary combination with Yellow HF-R or Orange HF-2GL and Red HF-G or Red HF-2B or Brown HF-2RL. Red HF-2B is a bluish red for use in a ternary combination with Yellow HF-R or Orange HF-2GL and Blue HF-RL or Navy HF-B. Navy HF-G is a slightly greenish navy with moderate lightfastness. It can be used as a straight color or in a ternary combination for medium to dark shades with Yellow HF-R or Orange HF-2GL and Red HF-G or Red HF-2B. Brown HF2RL is a neutral, homogeneous brown for use in a lightfast ternary combination with Orange HF-2GL and Blue HF-RL. Orange HF-2GL is a non-phototropic dye for use in a ternary combination for high lightfastness with Brown HF-2RL and Blue HF-RL.Red HF-G is a brick red. It can be used in an economical ternary combination with Yellow HF-R or Orange HF-2GL and Blue HF-RL or Navy HF-B. Yellow HF-R is a slightly reddish yellow for use in a ternary combination with Red HF-G or Red HF-2B, Blue HF-RL or Navy HF-B. New Disperse Dyes For Polyester
Ciba Specialty Chemicals offers a broad spectrum of dyes for various applications.Photograph courtesy of Ciba.Ciba also has introduced a new range of liquid disperse dyes for the automotive business. This Terasil range gives the exceptional lightfastness demanded by this industry, according to Ciba. Suitable for exhaust dyeing and printing, they include: Blue HL-B, LIQ. 75%;Pink 2GLA, LIQ. 50%;Blue BGE, LIQ. 50%; and Yellow GWL, LIQ. 50%. Germany-based DyStar recently announced a restructuring of the disperse line of dyes under the Dianix umbrella. According to Alan Cunningham, head of marketing of polyester dyes for DyStar, The new Dianix range has been designed to meet the changing needs of our customers for the coloration of polyester, who more than ever look for the highest levels of performance, quality and value to compete in the global market. The Dianix name was chosen because of its excellent name recognition throughout the world. DyStar was formed through the merger of the textile dyes businesses of Bayer AG with Hoechst AG in 1995. DyStar obtained the Dianix name from a previous agreement between Hoechst and Mitsubishi. The subsequent acquisition of the textile dyes businesses of BASF, Zeneca and Mitsui brought DyStar a large market basket of excellent disperse dyes, which now have been unified for different applications.Dianix CC dyes are a range of economical medium-energy dyes for rapid, reliable exhaust and continuous dyeing of polyester and blends with other fibers. With the use of computer control programs, the dyer can expect excellent Right-First-Time performance because these dyes are compatible. They also offer excellent build-up, economical dye recipes and good all-around colorfastness, according to DyStar. A scarlet, blue and turquoise are totally new.The Dianix XF/SF dyes are a range of dyes with the highest levels of washfastness. The dyer can expect little problem for high-washfast apparel, workwear and sportswear. DyStar claims the dyer will achieve high production efficiency, especially on polyester/cellulose blends, through alkaline clearing of unfixed dye, thereby eliminating the need for reduction clearing.The Dianix UN-SE dyes are compatible, level-dyeing dyes for reliable dyeing of medium and heavy shades on polyester fabrics. Once again, compatibility and computer control result in level dyeing performance on difficult fabrics, such as microfiber, and weight-reduced polyester.The Dianix AC-E dyes are three compatible, level-dyeing dyes for rapid, reliable dyeing of pale shades on polyester. Dianix PLUS is a new range of five compatible, level-dyeing dyes for reliable dyeing of medium and heavy shades, especially on microfiber and weight-reduced polyester, whether applied under mild alkaline conditions to control trimer, or under conventional acid conditions.The Dianix S line is an economical range of high-energy powder and liquid dyes with high fastness to contact heat. These dyes are used successfully in exhaust, continuous and printing applications.The Dianix Luminous/Brilliant line of dyes has been specially selected from the fluorescent and brilliant dyes for fashion shades and high-visibility work clothing. These selected dyes conform to the EN-471 specifications for high-visibility work clothing and the EN 1150 specifications for high-visibility leisure and sports clothing. Even with these difficult requirements, the colorfastness is still good.Dianix AM dyes offer the highest level of lightfastness for automotive and other demanding textiles. These dyes offer on-tone fading and minimum metamerism. There also is an alkaline dyeing option to avoid the problems of cyclic trimer deposition, especially noticeable in package dyeing and winding. A new red and a brilliant blue have been added to this line.Finally, the Dianix P dyes offer the dyer a complete range of economical liquid disperse dyes for textile printing. These dyes are suitable for standard applications as well as for specialties such as burn-outs, flags, banners and camouflage. Controlling Your CostsThere is no doubt in anyones mind that process control is the first step in controlling costs. Dyeing and getting it right the first time has significant cost advantages. With profit margins as thin as they are today, one simply must rely on ones system and believe that it is right. Of course, the control system has to be good. Over the years, DyStar has developed an advanced control system called Optidye. The system allows the dyer to link the process controller with the lab, host and color kitchen (See Figure 1). When individual machine characteristics and load size are factored in, there are bound to be slight corrections as one moves from one dye machine to the next. There are simply too many factors involved to keep track of this annually. Optidye has been proven in the field for years now.
Technodye – New Dyeing ProcessArgelich, Termes y Cia S.A. (ATYC), Spain, is working on an electrochemical dyeing process in close cooperation with the Catalonian Polytechnic University through the Instituto de Investigaciextil y Cooperacindustrial de Terrassa (INTEXTER), and with the support of Clariant. Such cooperation is devoted to developing a fabric-dyeing process using electrolytic dyestuff reduction specifically for sulfur, vat dyes and generally all dyes that require reduction. The trials already have been initiated in a computerized lab pilot machine installed at INTEXTER.The advantage of electrolytic reduction of dyestuff is that it avoids reducing chemicals, which in turn reduces contamination in the water, thereby eliminating 90 percent of the biological oxygen demand and chemical oxygen demand levels in the dyehouse effluent. The effluent is pure enough to be reused in subsequent dyeing. Trials have been concluded using black sulfur dyes on cotton knit fabric, with very satisfactory results.Textile World has tried to hit the highlights of some of the new developments in cotton and polyester dyes, along with controls and machinery that will make life easier for the dyer. Better dyes with better properties allow dyers to better satisfy their customers. New process technology can enable them to save money because fewer chemicals are used and less waste water needs to be treated. Lets have a greener world.June 2002
Senate Supports Textile Industry Trade Agenda
Textile state senators have added key elements of the domestic industrys trade agenda to
legislation granting President Bush expanded trade negotiating authority. The amendments to the
Trade Promotion Authority Act (TPA) would require other nations to open their markets to textile
and apparel exports and also to protect United States anti-dumping laws, which the textile industry
frequently has used to combat unfair trade practices.An amendment sponsored by Sen. John Edwards
(D-N.C.) would write into law the negotiating objectives of the domestic industry in connection
with the current World Trade Organization (WTO) trade liberalization talks and any other bi-lateral
trade agreements. The Edwards amendment states the “Principal negotiating objectives of the United
States, with respect to trade in textile and apparel articles, is to obtain competitive opportunity
for United States exports of textiles and apparel in foreign markets.” To accomplish this, the
amendment would require other nations to reduce their tariff levels to the same or lower levels as
the U.S. by a certain date and eliminate non-tariff barriers to trade in textiles and apparel. The
amendment, co-sponsored by Senators Max Cleland (D-Ga.), Zell Miller (D-Ga.), George Allen (R-Va.),
Blanche Lincoln (D-Ark.) and Jesse Helms (R-N.C), was approved by a substantial margin of 66 to 33.
Van May, president, American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI), praised the senate action. ”
The senate recognizes that fairness must be a key objective in textile trade negotiations, and by
adopting the Edwards Amendment, the senate has served notice that the U.S. textile industry is not
to be given away in future trade talks,” he said. In a related development, the senate adopted
another amendment that would exempt U.S. anti-dumping, countervailing duty and other trade remedy
laws from the so called “fast track” procedure whereby trade agreements cannot be amended by
Congress. The amended version of the TPA bill provides that if any trade agreement negotiated under
fast track procedures includes changes to U.S. trade laws, the proposed changes would be subject to
regular congressional procedures, including full debate and amendment. That amendment was a major
setback for the Bush administration and importers who believe it undercuts their ability to
negotiate trade agreements.The senate is expected to pass the final version of the bill by its
Memorial Day recess starting May 24, and the bill would then have to be reconciled with an already
approved House version of Trade Promotion Authority.
Inventa-Fischer Awarded DuBay Polymer Contract
Germany-based DuBay Polymer GmbH, a joint venture of DuPont and Bayer AG, has awarded a contract to
Berlin-based Inventa-Fischer GmbHandCo. KG to build a turnkey plant for the production of
high-viscose polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) in Hamm Uentrop, Germany. The project is valued at
more than 50 million euros.Inventa-Fischer, a subsidiary of Switzerland-based EMS-Chemie Holding
AG, will supply the technology, engineering, equipment, plant control, building, infrastructure and
utility distribution for, as well as erect and commission the continuously operating
polycondensation plant. Using Inventa-Fischers modern two-reactor process technology, the plant
will produce 80,000 tons per year of PBT, which is used in molded composites for the automotive and
electronic industries.
May 2002
ATMI Focuses On Trade
ATMI Focuses On Trade
Will Washington keeps its promises Textile executives attending the American Textile
Manufacturers Institute (ATMI)s 53rd annual meeting heard repeated promises from government trade
officials and members of Congress that they are strongly committed to carrying out President George
W. Bushs nine-point program to help the ailing textile industry, but many members remained
skeptical. In the major address of the annual meeting, Secretary of Commerce Donald L.
Evans said: I want you to know that you have a friend in us and you can trust us to keep our word.
When George W. Bush makes a commitment, we know he will honor that commitment.After hearing the
repeated promises, outgoing President Charles A. (Chuck) Hayes said: The proof of the pudding is in
the eating.Last December, the Bush administration, in response to pressure from textile-state
congressmen, outlined a nine-point program that includes a commitment to seek greater overseas
markets for U.S. textiles and apparel, resistance to liberalizing U.S. import quotas, a crackdown
on illegal imports and tax relief.
Washington provided the venue for this year’s ATMI annual meeting. Evans Promises
SupportEvans said the administration already has taken some steps to fulfill that commitment, and
others will be forthcoming. Some, however, will require congressional action, and that could prove
to be the most difficult and contentious area. He said the tax carryback provision of the economic
stimulus package passed by Congress and signed by the president should help address what he called
the textile industrys severe liquidity problem. Although the textile industry had wanted to recover
taxes paid in profitable years going back 10 years, the final legislation provided for a five-year
carryback, which the industry views as a major improvement over the current two years. Evans also
said the administration is resisting an effort by some developing countries to have the 2005
textile quota phase-out accelerated. We have said no consistently, and we will continue to say no,
he said.We have promised we are going to work aggressively to open markets for you, Evans said. It
is time to get other countries to knock down their barriers. We no longer will settle for just
words; I want results. Evans said the administration is equally committed to enforcing laws and
regulations combatting illegal transshipments, smuggling and copyright violations. I want to send
everyone concerned a clear message, he said. This president is for free trade, but he also is for
fair trade and a level playing field. We are going to demand that countries live up to their trade
agreements, and we will enforce our trade laws. Will Promises Be KeptIn a closed meeting of
the ATMI Board of Directors, two of the administrations key trade officials David Spooner, special
textile negotiator, and James C. Leonard, deputy assistant secretary of commerce for textiles and
apparel and consumer goods were peppered with questions about their determination and ability to
carry out the administrations textile trade commitments. While many of those attending the meeting
were impressed with the textile trade team, some said they have nagging concerns because of the
failure of previous administrations to follow through on commitments made to the industry. ATMI
Executive Vice President Carlos Moore said that while ATMI has a thick file of broken promises,
many of the promises were made by presidential candidates, who, once they got into office, were
unable or unwilling to follow through. The difference in this case, Moore said, is that these
commitments have been made by an incumbent president.
As the administration was making its case, members of Congress from textile-producing states
assured those attending the meeting that they will use everything at their disposal to ensure that
commitments are fulfilled. Rep. Robin Hayes, R-N.C., who has been under heavy fire in his home
district for his crucial vote granting Trade Promotion Authority to the president, reminded the
textile executives that as a result of that vote, he was able to extract concessions from the
administration to address some of the textile industrys economic problems. I have signed agreements
from the secretary of commerce, with the concurrence of the president, and commitments from the
Republican leadership in the House that they will support positions we have been advocating and
help bring about fair trade, Hayes said. We have the word of the president and the speaker of the
House, and I believe both are men of high faith, and that is the single most important indication
they will keep their word. I want to assure you that I will fight with all of the power in my being
to see that these commitments are met. While textile industry leaders and members of Congress are
willing to give the administration the benefit of the doubt, at least for the time being, they are
wary of concessions that might be given to Asian nations in return for their support of the U.S.
war on terrorism. The United States already has given Pakistan a $480-million increase in its
apparel imports over the next three years, and Pakistani government leaders have indicated this
might be only a first step. Several other nations already have lined up for similar treatment. Rep.
Virgil Goode Jr., Ind.-Va., told ATMI members, to a resounding burst of applause, that the
government should reward its friends with a direct Department of Defense appropriation rather than
textile trade concessions. Looking Back
Outgoing ATMI President Hayes described his year as head of the industrys central trade
association as hell on wheels, as the industry faced its most adverse business conditions of his 50
years in textiles. In spite of difficulties, he cited a number of positive accomplishments that
could help the industry work its way out of its current economic slump. He said the Congressional
Textile Caucus has been retooled and reactivated; the industry has been successful in getting its
message across through the news media and with one-on-one meetings with government officials; and
it has letters from top government officials saying they understand the industrys problems and are
committed to doing something about them. Hayes noted that he had several meetings with the commerce
secretary and other government trade officials, and he is convinced Commerce Secretary Evans is a
true friend of the industry.Hayes warned that something must be done about the strong dollar, which
has made imports cheaper and exports more expensive, but no one at the meeting seemed to have a
simple or immediate solution to that problem. Looking ForwardStating that he is a consensus
builder, incoming ATMI Chairman Van May, CEO of the Plains Cotton Cooperative Association (PCCA) in
Lubbock, Texas, said he brings a new perspective to some of the textile issues, and he hopes to
link good farm policy and good trade policy. He strongly denounced the U.S. governments one-sided
trade policies that have opened the door to ever-increasing imports, while failing to open overseas
markets.
Left to right: Joe Gorga, Chuck Hayes, Van May, Billy Moore and Carlos Moore He said it
is absolutely unfair that countries such as India can ship millions of dollars worth of textiles
and apparel to the United States, while keeping its markets virtually closed. Our trade policies
have been so unfair, our biggest export is jobs, he said
(See Dont Mess With Texas, TW, March 2002).Looking at the agenda for the coming year, May
said one of his goals will be to work with government officials to develop a model for all future
trade pacts that will protect the interests of all segments of the textile industry.
May 2002
Partners In Textile Innovations
Partners In Textile Innovations
Textile finisher brushes, crashes and embosses added value to a variety of
fabrics. Here and there, in villages, towns and cities all across the country, small,
responsive textile companies are surviving even thriving. These companies are usually owned and run
by only one or two people, and are especially adept at shifting gears and responding to customer
needs. These are companies such as Partners In Textile Innovations LLC (PTI), a contract finisher
in Piedmont, S.C., that didnt even start up until trade imbalances had already dealt the mainstream
U.S. industry a roundhouse knockout punch. PTI looks at the holes in the market and rushes to
fill them. Its all about innovation and being responsive to the needs of the customer, said Steve
Durham, the companys managing director. Its about adding value and providing something faster,
better and more innovative than others are willing to do.PTI was created in 1994 with the mission
of better meeting customer needs in texture finishing through the use of advanced technologies and
processes, Durham said. As a multinational company, with partners in the United States, Germany and
the Netherlands, our international reach expands the resources available for consistently and
continually fulfilling our mission to better meet customer needs, he said.
PTI was the first company in the United States to develop a process for crashing
fabrics. When creating the company, our mission led us to construct a new 50,000-square-foot
building rather than retrofitting older textile facilities, the course taken by most of our
competitors. We were able to build our new facility around cutting-edge technology, rather than
adapting or compromising the technologies to accommodate the facility. A key advantage of the
facility and equipment is the capability to finish wide goods up to 140 inches. Unique
FinishesOf the various finishes PTI features, it is perhaps best known for crashing. The company
was the first in the United States to develop the process and continues to refine it to the point
that PTI continues to offer the widest array of designs in the industry, Durham said. Crashing
textures available include crinkle, pebble, antique, spider, combo and long crash.PTI is also adept
at brushing, he said. Weve given brushing a feel long thought impossible. Customers want a soft,
pure-cotton feel from less expensive poly/cotton blends. Existing techniques would have severely
weakened or discolored the blends, so we began a re-evaluation and experimentation program that led
to the development of a new process that uses a custom-designed brush loom. Our proprietary
technique brushes less expensive poly/cotton blends into the feel of expensive, high-quality
imported cottons, while preserving fabric strength and color.All brushing techniques by the company
are available for wide fabrics up to 135 inches.Our whole business is based on making something
appear and feel more expensive than it really is, said Geoff Hollings, a partner in the business,
now retired. The perceived value of the goods is greatly enhanced by our processes.Yet another area
in which the company excels is embossing. Customer needs again led us to break free and surpass
industry process constraints, Durham said. They wanted a finished design that combines embossed
material and fine, sheer fabric. We pioneered a new process that embosses using infrared
technology. It allows combination fabrics to be processed as one piece because there is no damaging
heat, and the infrared is directed and limited only to the desired sections. The technology also
allows the embossing of wide goods of up to 135 inches. Getting StartedThe company had its
beginnings in another company, one that made draperies for the hotel industry. Durham and Hollings
were coworkers, and both were looking for new ideas upon which to base a start-up enterprise. We
saw a lot of fabrics coming in from abroad with new textured finishes, Durham said. All of it was
very expensive and no one was doing it over here, so we started this plant to do it
ourselves.Rather than looking for machinery that could be adapted to provide the desired effects,
Durham and Hollings designed and built their own equipment and began working on achieving the
finishes they wanted. Once we got it to an acceptable price, we found out a lot of people were
interested in what we were doing.Of all the end applications serviced by PTI, window treatments
account for about 70 percent of the companys business; bedding, about 20 percent; apparel, 5
percent; and industrial, 5 percent.Some of the designs heat-set, rolled, or otherwise imparted to
fabric at PTI can be seen in womens apparel particularly dresses, gowns and formal attire. You now
see the effects in every store, Durham said. It is just a matter of time, if you have a successful
process, that it is copied. Our mission is to do it better, deliver it quicker and keep the
customer happy. Of course, a great deal of our effort goes into research and development, and being
able to provide customers with looks and feels they cant get anywhere else.The company currently
has two new processes in development for apparel, including a denim application that will create
custom looks on a continuous form.Innovation is the key, Hollings said. You have to stay ahead of
the game. Indeed, innovation is so important to PTI that Durham and Hollings included the word in
the companys name. The other big word Partners applies not to some silent owner, but to the
customers to whom PTI delivers its goods. Our customers are our partners. To maintain business, to
see it grow, we have to maintain partnership relations with both our customers and suppliers,
Hollings said.The key for long-term profitability for PTI, both Durham and Hollings say, is to
continue the companys focus on design and marketing. Those two things are really our biggest
strengths, Durham said. You have to be continually looking at the customer and finding out what the
demands are. So far, we have been able to stay ahead of the competition, and we plan to continue
doing so. Of the fabric finished by PTI, Durham estimates that about half is domestic and half
imported. While PTI may invest a considerable portion of its earnings in product development, it
doesnt have to shell out substantial sums for market development. Our business is market-driven,
Durham said. Our customers come to us and tell us what they want. Then we take the customers ideas
and bring them to a product standpoint very quickly.To facilitate customer loyalty, the total range
of services provided by PTI has changed drastically over the years. From pure contract finishing,
the company now engages in sourcing, service, design, research and development, and product
development.Basically, our philosophy is to do whatever it takes to make our customers happy, said
Durham. If our customers are happy, then we are going to be successful.
May 2002
SourceTech Introduces Software For Knitters
SourceTech Systems Inc., Huntersville, N.C., has developed the VI2600 software program to help
contract knitters manage their businesses. Based on the companys Visual Impact program used
worldwide by textile manufacturers, the system includes a package of modules to handle order entry,
production scheduling and tracking, yarn management, finished goods inventory, shipping and
invoicing. It can be linked with most accounting systems and includes a language converter that is
useful for offshore operations. The system may be modified to fit with a knitters specific needs.
SourceTech also plans to develop add-in modules for a knitters dyeing and finishing operations, as
well as EDI and B2B support.
May 2002
