Camber Offers New Electronic Jacquard

Camber International Ltd., England
has introduced the RJE with 3-way technique for more versatility and productivity for circular
knitting.

The RJE, based on the RJ 72 E 2-way machine, allows for electronic needle-selection, double
jersey jacquard with the ability to change to any 3-way technique on the cylinder electronically.
The need to change cams mechanically has been eliminated. According to the company, the RJE
increases the range of fabric posibilites while reducing the downtime.


January 2000

Premiere Vision Offers Peek At Fabric Futures

Premiere Vision Offers Peek At Fabric Futures
Tradition and technology reign supreme at European textile show. A majority of the
876 textile exhibitors who show at Premiere Vision are medium-sized companies, yet their combined
annual total turnover is 16.4 billion euros. Exports make up 54.5 percent (8.9 billion euros), with
nearly 76 percent of that coming from neighboring European countries. Close to 12 percent is
derived from the Americas and more than nine percent from Asia.A recent survey of exhibitors shows
a decline in sales for the first half of 1999 of about 4.5 percent. With the Millennium Round of
negotiations, which took place in Seattle a few weeks after Premiere Vision, a debate was staged at
the show where textile leaders and European members of parliament discussed issues of
globalization, fair trade, de-localization and investment in the European textile industry. A
Textile OpinionOn the textile side, Jean de Jaegher, president of Euratex and the Italian group
Marzotto, said: We have specific advantages in terms of creativity, quality, flexibility,
employment and a market for specialties. If only the politicians would give us the means to survive
and develop these advantages.Other textile panelists were Eduardo Miroglio, chairman of Miroglio;
Wilhelm Otten, chairman of Josef Otten; James Sugden, managing director of Johnstons of Elgin;
Eduardo Malone, chairman of the Chargeurs group; and Nico Leendertz, managing director of
Girmes.Concerns cited by this group include balanced reciprocity. How can we survive if Third World
countries have permission to dump cheap fabrics in our home markets asked Otten. Sweatshop labor,
poor quality and politicians lack of response to events such as the Banana War were other issues
cited.In defending their position, members of the European Parliament said that it is difficult to
take measures that will be upheld by the majority of member states when there are many different
special interests. Although nothing was resolved, the debate did focus attention on problems facing
European textiles in a global environment. Divisions and ConsolidationsAt a separate press
conference, Marzotto announced it has divided its textile fabrics division into three separate
lines: Fabric by Marzotto, a collection of wool for menswear; Ws Marzotto for womenswear; and
Fusion Line for contemporary/sportswear.The Fusion line will produce innovative wool/polyester
blends, primarily coming from Marzottos Nova Mosilana plant in Czechoslovakia. According to the
company, production of 3 million linear meters is anticipated.In a reverse move, Como silk weaver
Ratti announced consolidation of three divisions: Donna Ratti, Ratti 7 and DEste-Brochier into one
unit Ratti Fashion. According to Donatella Ratti, printed fabrics began an upturn with the Summer
2000 collection.For Fall 2000, Ratti Fashion is printing on a variety of fabrics including
cashmere, taffeta, satin, velour, felted wool, jersey, crepe and chiffon. There are ethnic motifs
coupled with traditional designs, sophisticated flowers, macro and micro geometrics combined,
animal skin designs and paisley.Novelties at Ratti are sandwich cloth sheers with three fabrics
combined for a shimmering effect. Laser cuts turn up on leather-look fabrics and polyurethane
coated cotton/viscose blends. There also are double-faced silks which are softly brushed on one
side and satin surfaced on the other. New Ways With WoolTraditionally at the Fall/Winter show,
the wool sector has the largest number of exhibitors. There was a lot of innovation here, along
with concern about price and high tariffs.At Woolmark, easy care is increasingly prominent. A
fabric produced by Lanificio Cabal is going into machine washable suits for Emporio Armani.
Sportwool and Wool plus Lycra® are two other areas gaining market share.Other new developments at
Woolmark are wool denim in an intimate blend of 60-percent wool/40-percent cotton, steel/wool in
fabrics that mold, crush and wrinkle, and air-wool. The air-wool fabrics are woven with a yarn of
wool/PVA (polyvinyl alcohol). The PVA washes out in finishing, resulting in a ultra light fabric of
100-percent wool. The fabric on display was woven by the Italian mill Tiberghien.Wool/Lycra with a
polyurethane coating and bonded fleece fabrics of wool/polyester are other new developments at
Woolmark. These are being produced by Limonta (Strachman Associates). American designer Ron
Chereskin sampled several for his new outerwear line, which he describes as sportswear driven with
a softer approach.Limonta has also added a wool line. Most of the fabrics are lightweight blends of
wool/nylon with a breathable coated surface. Some are brushed and ultra soft, others have a rubber
touch. British MP Visits Show FloorIn the British wool sector, The Harris Tweed Group got an
extra boost with a visit by Brian Wilson, MP, Minister of State at the Scotland Office. A major
concern American buyers expressed to Wilson is the exceptionally high duty on wool fabrics,
especially when fabrics such as Harris tweeds can not be produced in the United States.Wilson noted
that Harris Tweed has a tradition that exists no where else in the world. The cloth is still hand
woven but today great efforts have been made to ensure that fabrics produced in the Hebrides can
meet the needs of contemporary designers, while maintaining the essential characteristics of Harris
Tweed.On the last day of the show, Derick Murray of the KM Harris Tweed Group (St. Andrews)
reported interest among American buyers in plains and large checks with a lot of color. Now that
Harris Tweed is available in 150 cms widths, it has a softer hand and is lighter in weight.Hunters
of Brora (St. Andrews) also reported checks selling well. Heather shades with touches of flat
boucle yarns in vibrant pink and scarlet, and rustic chunky herringbone weaves were shown. Menswear
designers were sampling ultra-light New Zealand merino wools, while womenswear customers opted for
dark, richly colored checks in lambs wool. Lightweight fabrics of 320 gms and heavyweights up to
540 gms were sampling well.At Robert Noble, Gill Cable said: Were busier than usual. I think its
because we have color. The Italians dont.At the top of the line there was interest in red shades.
Subtle checks in wool/cashmere blends, small neat patterns in lambs wool and small nubby boucles
were pointed out. American menswear designers sampled checks in wool/silk/linen blends. Double
cloths reversing from pattern to plain sampled well for outerwear and unlined jackets.At Calzeat
(Chantal) there was a move to muted colors and checks in the McArthur worsted line. Soft misted
wool spun checks at Dickson and raised patterns with touches of mohair at Claridge were popular.
Pressed velvet finishes and ripple effect mohairs in the Calzeat jacquard line were of special
interest.Weathered shades of green, olive and slate with old gold and pink were of note at
Lochcarron (RuLytex). An indigo-dyed denim tartan of 100-percent cotton, mohair tartans, blazer
stripes and anything with surface interest were featured. Cashmere With A Rustic LookJohn
Gillespie of Johnstons of Elgin (Windsor Textiles) reported excellent reactions to the fall line,
especially from Italian customers, who now account for 50 percent of their business. One of their
best selling fabrics is a Donegal tweed with a deceivingly rustic look and ultra-soft hand. New
cords and cavalry twills were selling, and there was less interest in traditional fabrics and
patterns.French weaver de Cathalo, part of the Chargeurs group, reported precious fiber blends
selling well. A shaggy, hairy-surfaced coating of baby alpaca/mohair/wool was one fabric of note.
Another contained beaver fur.The animals are farm raised and shaved, said Thomas Brochier, North
American market manager. Color reversing, double-faced fabrics, subtle raised surfaces and boucles
were other fabrics Brochier showed.Wool coats are coming back, Brochier added. Most of what he
presented contained Lycra and are scotchguarded. Generally the coating fabrics are lightweight and
have texture. There are velours, hairy fabrics and loops in blends of wool/cashmere/angora or
wool/kid mohair/nylon.Axel Delacroix of de Vaudricourt (Chantal) also mentioned wool coating
fabric. He showed tonal boucles and jacquards woven in Cashwool, a merino yarn from Zegna Baruffa.
There is a lot of novelty and innovation here. There are double-faced window pane checks in
wool/copper blends, boiled wools, wool/Lycra puckers, shaggy loops in patterns and wool/nylon
checks which are burned out to form a pattern.Rough and rustic stripes, zig-zag patterns and
waffles woven with thick and thin yarns have the look of Peruvian ponchos at Alba la Source
(ColemanandMason).Donegals and boucles with a spongy hand are woven with Shetland or lambs wool
yarns, some have angora or silk to give a soft or dry hand to the fabric. Rich shades of khaki and
red were featured.At Isoule (Barn Hill), washable shirtings in wool/cotton are napped for extra
softness. Stretch wools come in a variety of weights and coordinating patterns. The Isotex division
has puckered and embossed surfaces, lightweight bulky double cloths, heathers and tweeds.The
Spanish firm Dimtex (Rashi) has a wide range of classics and novelties for menswear. Worsted wool
suitings of 290/310 grams are classic favorites. There is ultra-light flannel of wool/cashmere in
plain and mini pattern designs. A line described as going from the country to the city includes
wool/Lycra bi-stretch, corded crepes and metallic stripes. There are washable wool blend jacket and
trouser weight fabrics here as well.Casual, rustic and sporty wools and blends at Dobert (Chantal)
include spongy terry and boucle, velours, meltons and washed boiled wools. There are double cloths,
some with foam bonding or fiber fill. Pastels and light beiges were popular colors.At Milior
(Gordon Textiles), an Italian firm in the wool sector, there is a lot of new technological
development. Lycra turns up in a variety of weights and textures. There are double cloths which
reverse from a hard to soft or felted to wrinkled surface. One new treatment, called Newskin, is an
ultra-light polyurethane adhesive with a rubber touch. It is semi-transparent and applied to
fabrics. Another is a thermostatic yarn developed by DuPont which helps maintain body
temperature.Milior has used a lot of mohair in light, open airy weaves. It is frequently blended
with viscose and nylon for subtle shine. There are also breathable bonded fabrics that resemble
suede and anti-stress fabrics that contain copper. Function And StyleIn the sportswear sector,
Schoeller continues to be a leader in technological advances. For Fall/Winter 2000/01 they
demonstrated climate control ComforTemp® products, introduced a year ago and developed for
astronauts in outer space. These fabrics are making the transition from sport to leisure, blending
functionality with style. They are breathable, moisture regulating and can be washed or dry
cleaned.Stretch has been reinvented at Schoeller. There is four-way stretch denim,
nylon/acrylic/Lycra stretch double-weave fleece and transparent stretch fabrics in a variety of
looks. Metallics continue, with new fabrics and blends. Some have a lot of sheen, all can be
crumpled, smoothed and molded. Metal is blended with wool, linen or synthetic fibers.

Christine Jenny of Schoeller models a jacket made with the company’s new fabric that contains
metal. At Griffine (Gordon Textiles), fake leathers and suedes are lightweight, breathable and
going into skirts and trousers. Polyurethane-coated nubuck types are available in weights of 160
gms. They are soft, supple and easy care. There are coated organic non-woven fabrics with a paper
touch, lightweight textured effects, soft noisy taffetas and a double-faced fabric called R2D2. It
reverses color and sheen.

Griffine showed many different styles of fabrics including fake leather and suedes and coated
organic nonwovens with a paper touch. At AGB (Fitsimmons Fabrics) there are noisy,
Teflon®-coated paper-touch cottons, soft, slick shirt and dress weights in blends of
nylon/cotton/Modal®/wool, Tencel®/polyester/Lycra ribbed fabrics, and double-faced fabrics
reversing from slick to brushed surfaces.Portuguese weaver Riopel (Lyn Alessi) is showing a lot of
double cloths in polyester/viscose blends. Some also contain Lycra and stretch in all directions.
These reverse color and weave. The hand is soft and wool-like. There are Teflon finishes and almost
all are easy care. Textile AromatherapyNew developments at Welbeck are selling for activewear,
liesurewear and intimate apparel. The scent of lavender, rose, citrus or vanilla is encapsulated
into micropolyester/Lycra jersey. The aroma is released only by friction against the skin and lasts
through 40 washings. In development stages is a fabric that will contain moisturizer.Another
micropolyester/Lycra development at Welbeck is low temperature dyed fabrics that mold, pleat and
retain their shape for the life of the fabric. There are moisture-wicking Tactel/cotton/Lycra
fabrics for athleticwear and double-faced gossamer sheer nylon/polyester/Lycra fabrics that shimmer
with subtle luster.Marioboselli (HorneandWeiss) has developed three distinct lines. At the high end
are yarn-dyed wool knits and wool blended with precious fibers. There is a lot of cashmere, angora
and silk in this range. Second are piece-dyed wools and blends with polyester or nylon.The Active
line contains fabrics with a sporty look. There are sandwich cloths with a glittery metallic fiber
in the middle, heat reflecting stretch fabrics coated with polyurethane or aluminum and laser
cut-outs on a variety of weights. New In KnitsGruppo Dondi now offers four knit collections.
The newest is called TechnoandLogico. Fabrics combine natural with man-made fibers aluminum,
polypropylene and polyester that are blended with wool or cotton. Rubber-coated surfaces, puffed or
wadded looks and paper-touch fabrics offer resistance to moisture, wind and cold. There are
waterproof fleeces and heathered tweeds in this line.Other Dondi lines feature extra-fine wools
blended with angora, alpaca, cashmere, mohair or silk. There are bulky, soft boucles, alpaca
heathers, silk/cashmere reversibles, hairy jacquards, fabrics with metallic glitter and airy open
stitched fabrics.New at Mabu Jersey (Nuvotex) are ultra-lightweight sandwich cloths with
wool/angora stripes between layers of sheer nylon. There is a lot of Lycra and metallic glitter in
this line. Fabrics for evening are opulent. Nylon/Lycra in textured cobweb patterns, undulating
pleats on sheers and shiny cellophane hairs on open-stitch knits are some of the looks.French
knitter Billon Freres (Gera Gallico) showed engineered jacquards with open patterns, wool-blend
jacquards in crochet-like patterns with fringe and a spongy hand, and light, airy lacy looks in
blends of mohair/nylon/acrylic. There are pleated nylon sheers in this line. The same fabrics, with
the addition of spandex, are crinkled and textured. Printed Fabrics Pick UpInterest in printed
fabrics has picked up. Ed Harding of Barn Hill, agent for Liberty, said this line is selling
exceptionally well. Base fabrics here are cotton lawn and voile, wool challis and viscose crepe.
Clean, finely engraved mini flowers, Art Deco graphics and paisleys are among the most popular
designs.Paisleys are also popular at Miroglio. Here they turn up in large panel and boarder
placements. Animal prints on polyester satin are another acclaimed motif. Zebras are the animal of
choice.Long-stem roses and mixed florals turn up on a variety of fabrics at Miroglio including
brushed acrylic knits. Iridescent flocking printed on chiffon, double cloths with spots of glitter,
and diffused effects with a transparent fabric layered over a print are other new techniques.Print
base cloths at Josef Otten (Filtex) include lightweight stretch jersey, micro Modal interlock,
viscose jersey, plush velvet and nylon/spandex sheers. Art Tone prints are updated. The patterns
are graphic, minimal and modern.Other designs at Otten are nature abstracts, animal prints,
splatters and splotches. Many of the same motifs are duplicated in jacquards.There are a lot of new
fabrics at Otten. Metal is used in sheer fabrics which can be crushed and molded. Double-faced
fabrics change texture and surface. The knit line goes from thick, rustic heathers and fleeces to
soft sweater knits. Wool is blended with a small percentage of nylon, spandex or lurex. There are
boucles with mohair, and sandwich cloths in polyester/nylon with lurex in the middle.The Segalini
(Gordon) line has changed. Prints are now an adjunct to novelty wovens. There are quilted
jacquards, hairy boucles, crushed and wrinkled surfaces, double cloths and laser-cut taffetas.Wool
is blended with mohair, alpaca, acrylic or nylon. Prints are indistinct on luminous polyester
organza or diffused printed on wool jersey and sandwiched between layers of sheer nylon. Silks
Fit For A QueenIn the silk sector, first time exhibitor Paul Dulac (Fitzeimmons Fabrics) continues
to design hand-painted embroidered silks. Some of these have turned up in fashions worn by Queen
Elizabeth II. Quilted fabrics with printed polyester fiber fill under a layer of silk have a
clouded misty look. There are cobweb effects, double cloths and prints and embroideries on
mohair/nylon blends.The Rainbow division of Ratti showed silk mousseline and wool gauze which are
glue printed together. The same technique is used to combine iridescent silk with wool jersey or
felt. Prints are dimensional on mohair, splotchy or with the look of animal prints on felted wool,
or bright with a gypsy influence on silk.Muted book binder prints and soft paisleys at Dutel
(Fitsimmons) are done on polyester chiffon and wool flannel. New jacquards are crushed or cut to
show eyelash fringe.Jacquards at Sedera (Nuvotex) are metallic, lustered, slubbed or crushed. There
are large paisley panels, animal prints and small flowers. Double-sided cloths, moire effects and
chenilles with velvet ribs are other new developments in this line.European textile trend
consultant Angelo Uslenghi, in New York City for the ETS show two weeks after Premiere Vision,
surveyed exhibitors and reported best sellers. Double-faced fabrics, hairy and wooly surfaces,
mohair and cashmere, lightweight bulky rustic textures, blurred prints and tweeds are all on his
list.

December 1999

Defining The Future Of ITMA Shows


B
 irmingham, England, is not a location that trips regularly off the tongue of textile
people internationally. But now after 20 years of trying, the city has finally broken the monopoly
of Hanover, Germany; Milan, Italy; and Paris, to host the next ITMA show, October 21-30, 2003.

Skepticism exists, largely because of unfamiliarity. An enthusiastic and ambitious
partnership of the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA), Birmingham’s National Exhibition
Centre (NEC) and the city of Birmingham are making early efforts to persuade potential exhibitors
and the world’s textile media of the suitability of the NEC as a venue and of the adequacy of the
surrounding infrastructure, especially in terms of hotel accommodation and transport.


The Lay Of The Land

It is hardly surprising that the first thought of the majority of business and pleasure visitors
to the United Kingdom is London. As an ITMA venue, if the exhibition facilities were available —
which they are not — this would equate to ITMA Paris and virtually to the same extent, Milan.
Hanover, however, is a provincial German city with a superb exhibition complex, but hotel
accommodations catering to ITMA visitors are often an hour or more away.

In this way, Birmingham can fairly be compared with Hanover. The 160,000 square meters of
stand space are among the most modern in the world, with $100 million spent on new halls last year.
The NEC is used to hosting major international events although it may not be used to handling quite
the same amount of engineering, machinery and other heavy equipment as Hanover is.

Birmingham is the United Kingdom’s second-largest city, with a population of more than 3
million. It is modern, dynamic and an acknowledged European center of arts, music and culture. And
few now doubt that the dedicated team at the NEC will put on anything other than an excellent show
in 2003.

Exceptional direct access by air and rail links will be in place by 2003, and Birmingham is
at the hub of the central U.K. motorway network. Doubts may therefore center on hotel
accommodations. In response, Bob Gilbert, chairman of Birmingham Marketing Partnership, has been
quick to point out that there are already some 65,800 bedspaces within one hour’s drive of the NEC
and among the new hotels being built are three more on the NEC site itself.

Eric France, director of the BTMA, has pinpointed another advantage — English is the business
language of most large textile markets. Among other factors this has elicited “tremendous response”
from the United States, as well as a “positive reaction” from countries including China, India,
Pakistan and Taiwan.


CEMATEX Approval

Of equal interest is the fact that Birmingham provides a watershed in the future of the global
textile machinery exhibition scene.

On one hand, it demonstrates a new flexibility on behalf of CEMATEX, the 8-nation sponsor of
the ITMA shows. CEMATEX Secretary General Carlo Meandelwitsh has said that in the future there is
nothing to stop any European city from bidding for future ITMA’s, providing that they have suitable
exhibition facilities and infrastructure.

CEMATEX is also intent on pursuing its goal of reducing the proliferation of textile
machinery exhibitions around the world to manageable proportions, without depreciating the market
and promotional needs of machinery makers. In the past, breakaway textile machinery exhibitions
have sometimes proved a lucrative source of revenue for entrepreneurial individuals and
organizations.

Since it has effective control over the international exhibition intentions of such a large
proportion of machinery makers, CEMATEX feels it is in an ideal position to control any further
free-for-all proliferation of shows.

The future of ITMA exhibitions therefore looks to devolve around the European-based shows as
the only truly global showplace. Other exhibitions will, by implication, therefore revert to a
largely regional or domestic role. In this respect, ITMA Asia in 2001 is not expected to totally
extend its visitor appeal to Southeast Asia, including China, Hong Kong and Japan. What it will
cover is the new technology comparison needs of such growing markets as India, Pakistan and
Malaysia.

CEMATEX strongly denies that it is intent on usurping the OTEMAS exhibition in Osaka, Japan,
which follows right after ITMA Asia in Singapore. It is acknowledged that there is a highly
significant Japanese market which remains of great interest to many textile equipment suppliers and
that this will be supported by domestic machinery builders.


Other Factors

The two ATME-I exhibitions in Greenville, S.C., due to come together as one after 2001, will
remain key attractions for the Americas. The big question is whether the same will happen in China
with CITME in Beijing, and Shanghaitex in Shanghai.

Visitors to the most recent Shanghaitex, held this past September, report the growing textile
influence of the region and the increasing importance of the show. But there are powerful political
influences which favor a continuation of a textile machinery exhibition in the capital city of the
Peoples Republic.

December 1999

Grandoe And Gore Develop Performance Handwear

W.L. GoreandAssociates Inc., Elkton, Md., has announced that The Grandoe Corp., Gloversville, N.Y.,
has been licensed to use GORE-TEX® inserts in the its performance handwear.The new product
collections will be introduced in the 2000-2001 season under the Grandoe® and Stick It® brands. We
are excited about working with Grandoe, said Mary Jo Russell, business leader of Gore. Our customer
is the most demanding user in the business and expects the best material, Stated Bill Quilgley,
vice president, sales and marketing, The Grandoe Corp. Our new glove line incorporating GORE-TEX
will be introduced in fall 2000 will set a new standard in warmth, comfort and performance for
gloves.

December 1999

Paris Revisited

ATI continues its coverage of technical innovations and refinements at ITMA
’99. Bruckner Trockentechnik GmbHandCo. KG presented an entirely new stenter generation
with split-flow air circulation system. The split-flow system gives a separate and precisely
adjustable supply of circulating air to the upper and lower nozzles by having two speed-controlled
fans in each half of any one compartment. This concept gives the user increased performance,
reduced energy consumption, gentle air impingement and homogeneous circulating air flow, according
to the company.Bruckner also introduced the Witro relaxation dryer. It features one fabric passage
and upstream stenter zone. The machine has a low-tension fabric transportation system and is
designed to process delicate or critical fabric styles.The Scout open-width washing and bleaching
range was also shown for the first time. It has high washing efficiency with low water, energy and
chemical consumption. It is designed to process delicate fabrics made of viscose, cupro, Lycra® or
lyocell.Datatex AG showed TIM (Textile Integrated Manufacturing) release 6.0, an ERP solution
specialized for the textile and apparel industries. New functions introduced with this release
include: order acceptance scheduling, year 2000 compliance, parallel accounting in euros and local
currency, and electronic business on the internet.At Datatex we have been working hard on all
fronts in the development of the new TIM functions demonstrated at ITMA, said Roberto Crovetto,
marketing manager. We are very happy with the results obtained, and we are sure to increase them in
the following months.Elbit Vision Systems Ltd. (EVS) exhibited its I-Tex 2000 fabric inspection
system and Loomtex, an automatic on-loom fabric inspection. The I-Tex 2000 is an automatic
inspection system designed to automate the fabric inspection process. The system can run at speeds
of up to 300 meters per minute, according to the company.The Loomtex system, which is currently in
final development and field test stage, brings the inspection process much closer to the weaving
process.Erhardt + Leimer GmbH demonstrated all of its automation solutions for the first time as an
integral part of a running machine line. Several completely new systems were shown. These new
systems were: the ELSIS automated fabric inspection system combined with the ELMARK default marking
system; the FE 80 digital wide band sensor; the ScanTech TMS 50 basis weight and thickness
measurement system; the ELMETA digital metal detector and the ELSMART digital segmented roller
guide system.The ELSIS automated fabric inspection system uses OptoLine HS, a camera inspection
system, to recognize contamination and holes in the fabric. The ELMARK marking system pinpoints
fabric faults and allows for quick fabric quality evaluation.The ELFEED digital controlled tenter
in-feed system was also popular with visitors to the Erhardt + Leimer stand. ELFEED has the
following features: digital sensors, pneumatic motorized edge spreaders, and patented trimmer and
web tension control system.Fiber Controls Corp. exhibited its Snowbreaker bale-opening machine with
single or double opening head design. The machine can process up to 4,000 pounds of material per
hour. This is a versatile design suitable for small to medium production runs. It can be used to
feed intimate blending lines by addition of weigh pans or feed cards directly by adding shaker
chutes. Snowbreaker was introduced last year, and there are now 100 units installed worldwide.Fongs
National Engineering Co. Ltd. displayed several new machines at ITMA 99 including the GN6-Super
high-temperature dyeing machine, the MK88 high-speed dyeing machine and the MK8C double-rope soft
dyeing machine.The GN6-Super high-temperature dyeing machine is designed for 100-percent cotton
fabrics with fast dyeing cycles with reactive dye. It incorporates a number of innovative features,
which enable it to shorten the entire dye cycle, according to the company.The MK88 high-speed
machine is designed for dyeing light or delicate woven fabric such as taffeta and satin.The MK8C
double-rope soft dyeing machine is designed for processing knit fabrics with a soft uniform hand.
It also has large fabric loading capacity.Groz-Beckert KG showed its patented KN 10
maintenance-free, high-performance steel and plastic composite needle. These needles are as
insusceptible to contamination as conventional full-shank needles, according to the company. In
addition, these needles have all the productive advantages and capacity of low-profile
meander-shape needles.James HoldsworthandBrothers Ltd. exhibited its complete line of flexible and
metallic card clothing as well as the 200 series cotton grinder, 200 series metallic cleaner, 200
series lightweight, flexible tension head and 200 series mounting equipment.The patented Sliver
Knitting Ring was the big attraction at the Holdsworth stand and is expected to increase company
sales by about 20 percent in the next three to four years. The Sliver Ring has had a tremendous
impact on plain and jacquard fur fabric production worldwide and has opened up extensive new
markets for the 209-year-old family firm.Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG showed a new generation of automatic
weft control and quality monitoring systems, the 10a series including the FMC-10a, the QMS-10a and
the CIS-10a. All of these are based on the well-known Orthomat family.Common features include
improved signal generation and analysis. All component parts are networkable. Scanner assemblies,
straighteners and PC communicate via Ethernet, reducing time and money spent in wiring on site. By
selecting the appropriate IP-address, the visual display can be routed to any PC on the client
companys network. Settings can be altered and recipes can be created in the same way.The new user
interface comprises a 15-inch TFT-display with touch screen. The size and location of the touch
pads are tailored to meet on-site requirements. Menu prompts enable operators to react
instinctively and audio responses are available to provide additional user assistance, according to
the company.Karl Mayer Textil-maschinenfabrik GmbH exhibited 18 machines at two stands in Paris.
Several new machines were introduced. The HKS 4 tricot machine was shown with a maximum speed of
1,500 rpm. The machine is designed to produce a wide range of products including automotive
textiles, sportswear and technical fabrics.The RS 2 (3) MSU raschel machine was shown with a width
of 213 inches. It has servomotor control for gentle processing of weft yarns. The machine produces
technical fabrics and has a top speed of 1,400 rpm.The RJWB 4/2 F-NE-Cliptronic® machine is
designed to make bodywear and ladies outerwear with relief-like pattern effects.A. Monforts
Texilmaschinen GmbH launched its new Montex 5000 stenter at ITMA. It offers improved ease-of-use
and drying performance that is up to 18 percent better than the previous model.The Monforts
Interknit Line for nonstop finishing of knit fabrics was also introduced at the Paris show. The
main advantages of this continuously operated finishing line are single operator control and
nonstop finishing possibilities.The companys Ecobleach® process for desizing and bleaching in one
application was shown at ITMA as a market study. In-depth field tests for this system are
planned.Morrison Textile Machinery showed its all-new MICRO-SAT bleach saturation system. MICRO-SAT
was designed to address the industrys need for devices to add into current installations for
automation and chemical savings. The system uses an operator-friendly digital PLC or PC controls
for mixing and dosing. Liquor is fed on a mass throughput, semi-continuous demand basis,
eliminating periodic titration.Morrison also unveiled its new RBM-SF, engineered for both
tolerance-critical compressive shrinking and high-speed hand enhancement. Productivity improvements
include a new entry that is more adjustable for fabric style changes, redesigned blanket pressure
and tension controls, and the visibly new change is its steel frame, configured to ensure the
shortest rubber blanket change time.Morrison displayed two sizes of the all-new M-washer.
Performance features include a dual-purpose serpentine counter-flow baffling with counter-current
wash-water flow coupled with fabric wiping action. An optional internal nip is available to further
increase wash efficiency.Although the total show attendance was flat, traffic at the Morrison stand
exceeded the 1995 ITMA, said John M. White Jr., company president. The industry seems focused on
finishing for value-added enhancements, flexibility and cost savings. More companies visited with
higher-level people.NoyVallesina Engineering SpA shared details about its PET polycondensation
plant. This simple design made of only three reactors allows NoyVallesina to own the cheapest PET
plants in terms of investment and throughput ratio and maintenance cost worldwide, according to the
company.In addition, the compactness of the design allows savings also on civil works and steel
structures. The 3-reactor polyester technology is a proven technology that can produce up to 480
tons per day with direct spinning lines for staple and continuous filament for fiber grade
applications and up to 600 tons per day for bottle grade applications.Schaetti AG showed for the
first time a double-dot suction device to make a double dot with a paste base and scatter coated
nylon powder on fabrics. This is mainly for very light garment interlinings with weft insert and
nonwoven interlinings. The company also showed a scatter-coating head for an automatic
powder-feeding system and a powder distribution device for the scatter-coating head. The double-dot
suction device drew the most attention at the Schaetti stand.Schaetti has also announced a
partnership between itself and Bostik Ltd. Schaetti will now market Bostiks fusible powders
worldwide excluding America. Bostik Europe had been Schaettis sole supplier for polymers. Visitors
to the Schaetti stand at ITMA were very positive about this development. Schaetti also said that it
had some problems with the infrastructure of the Paris exhibition. The company found the
loudspeaker announcements and the strikes during the show particularly annoying.Sclavos
International exhibited its Venus dyeing machine with AquaChron in two new versions: Smart and XI.
Venus is equipped with the companys Twin Soft Flow dyeing system. It is a two nozzle high-flow
low-pressure (0.18 bars) that is said to overcome the fundamental drawback of conventional jet
dyeing systems.The Venus with AquaChron Smart can, without human interference, monitor, control and
interact with all process parameters such as liquor ratio, process times, water and steam supplies,
speed and revolution, according to the company.TEMCO Textilmaschinen-komponenten GmbHandCo. KG
showed several innovations for man-made fiber manufacturing including: the covering spindle PCS
(power controlled spindle), WIN-OLT Process monitoring system, and several new tangling jet
designs.The new covering spindle PCS (power controlled spindle) is single-motor driven and
position-related controlled. In the foreseeable future the company expects this new concept will
have a similarly successful breakthrough like the single-motor drive in the case of the MSE
covering spindle.The WIN-OLT process monitoring system was also shown for the first time. This
system enables machine operators to detect in a simple and easy way irregularities in the
production process, and to intervene accordingly, taking any necessary corrective steps. The
WIN-OLT system is based on the Windows user interface.In the field of tangling jets, TEMCO
presented several innovative products at ITMA 99 for the first time including: new ceramic inserts
with Y-orifice for LD 22 Y, anti-torque jet type LD 6 for anti-snarling effect on texturing
machines and new CI-jet in open/close system for continuous interlacing yarns.Otto Zollinger Inc.
showed its complete line of yarn tension control devices for 80 textile application areas. The
company had three new innovations to show visitors: the OZ Quickset, the OZ 2000 T and the 0Z
Transfer Tail Holder. The company has patents on all three.The OZ Quickset allows users to quickly
and easily dial in up to five tension settings without re-threading the yarn. The OZ 2000 T is
designed for carpet warping and tufting creels. The unit is said to increase tufting production
from 10 to 35 percent. Each percentage point can be worth up to $50,000 per year to the carpet
maker, according to Zollinger. The 0Z Transfer Tail Holder securely holds the yarn transfer tail
out of the way, preventing tangles and ensuring a clean transfer between packages.Our system works
on any yarn regardless of size, twist, fiber type or color, said Otto Zollinger, company president.
We improve quality and productivity by controlling yarn tension.

December 1999

Technology And New Trends Prevalent At Bobbin

Challenges face the sewn products industry, but they were met head on at the Bobbin Americas Expo
held from September 30 to October 2 at the Georgia World Congress Center in Atlanta. Many problems
were solved by using new technologies which are able to handle new trends in fibers, yarns, fabrics
and the fashions required in the market. The show allowed attendees to discuss those challenges and
take a look at the overall global textile and fashion markets. Attendees were also able to check
out technology that will produce the cost-cutting and production-enhancing resources needed to be
competitive in todays global economy.Bobbin Americas included 800 exhibiting companies in 2,500
booths and pavilions from South and Central America, as well as Asia. In addition, the
fabric-market-place showcased manufacturers of textiles from around the world for the entire sewn
products industry.

December 1999

The Saurer Group Acquires Barmag

The Saurer Group, Switzerland has announced that it is acquiring AGIV AGs 75-percent shareholding
of Barmag AG, Germany. Based on 100 percent of the shares, the purchase price agreed amounts to DEM
425 million (CHF 348 million).This acquisition is subject to approval of the supervisory board, the
authorization of the extraordinary general meeting of shareholders of AGIV AG, as well as the
approval of the Cartel authorities.According to the company, through the acquisition of Barmag,
Saurer intends to complete its worldwide leading market position in spinning machinery and to
achieve a major milestone in becoming an integral supplier of such equipment.Barmag has 2,650
employees and had sales in 1999 of approximately DEM 650 million (CHF 532 million).In other news,
The Saurer Group announced that the board of directors and the group management have decided to
consolidate all the textile activities under one common management, in order to, achieve an
increased degree of synergy in worldwide sales and sourcing.The company also announced that Heinz
Bachmann will be responsible for the Saurer Textile Division.

December 1999

Russell Forms Joint Marketing Venture In Brazil

Russell Corp., Atlanta, and Companhia de Tecidos Norte de Minas (COTEMINAS), Brazil, have announced
the formation of a joint venture marketing company. The new company, known as American Sportswear
S.A., will hold the licenses for the Russell Athletic and Jerzees brands for the Mercosur and Chile
markets.According to the companies, the ownership of American Sportswear will be divided equally
between Russell and COMTEMINAS with management executed through a board of directors.We are excited
to be entering into a tremendous market with over 200 million consumers whose usage of active wear
and casual wear products is extremely high, said Harrey de Boer, CEO, Russell.With one of the most
advanced manufacturing and customer service distribution systems, COTEMINAS is a natural partner
for Russell Corporation. They will be an integral part of out international expansion.

December 1999

Quality Fabric Of The Month: To Protect While Serving


DuPont, Wilmington, Del., has announced a new Kevlar® technology that is designed to protect law enforcement officers, corrections officers and military personnel against multiple weapon threats. Kevlar is a DuPont brand which is used in most bullet- and stab-resistant vests.

According to the company, this new Kevlar technology defends against threats from fire arms, commercially manufactured knives and puncture-producing weapons such as ice picks in a concealable,
soft body armor.


The Ice Pick Test

Unlike heavier garments worn on the outside of clothing, vests using this patent-pending technology are designed to be comfortable and flexible for everyday wear, and provides the same level of protection across the entire vest.

According to DuPont, multi-threat body armor made with the new Kevlar provides the wearer with ballistic protection for NIJ levels II, IIA and IIIA, and have surpassed the “California Ice Pick Test” using a standard ice pick and a Russell boning knife.

In the ice pick test, an ice pick or boning knife is attached to a 16.2-pound weight and dropped from a height of five feet. The energy level — measured at 81 ft.-lbs. or 110 joules — is equal to that of a tossed javelin or a golfer driving a ball 250 yards. The knife and pick failed
to puncture the Kevlar fabric.

The fact that this fabric can stop commercially manufactured knives and puncture-type weapons is important because these weapons are harder and sharper than hand-crafted knives, and are therefore more dangerous to law enforcement officers on the street.

Law enforcement officers never know what kind of weapon will be used against them,” said John Dottore, business segment leader at DuPont. “Knives and other sharp instruments are often the weapons of first opportunity in a given situation, such as a domestic dispute or crimes of passion.

“Under certain circumstances, such as courtroom security or prisoner transfer in a corrections or jail facility, a perpetrator may favor a knife of puncture-type instrument because it can be easily concealed and used surreptitiously. And there is always the ballistic threat. That
is why a multi-threat vest is the best protection for specific assignments in law enforcement and corrections.”

p78_1627

The force of 110 joules bends the blade of a Russell boning knife during the California Ice
Pick Test, but fails to pierce the multi-threat body.


Taking It To The Streets

The International Association of Chiefs of Police (IACP) and DuPont recently formed the Kevlar Survivors’ Club® to recognize and honor law enforcement and corrections officers who have survived potentially fatal/disabling injuries by wearing personal protective body armor. The partnership reported more than 2,300 documented cases where law enforcement officers were saved by their body armor.

The partnership is dedicated to reducing death and disability by having all law enforcement professionals wear body armor 100 percent of the time while on duty. Membership is open to any law enforcement or corrections officer who has survived a potentially life- or disability-threatening incident by wearing body armor. Officers are nominated by their chief, sheriff, warden or supervisor.

For more information on multi-threat level vests made with Kevlar, call (800) 4-KEVLAR
(453-8527).

December 1999

BASF Bayer And Hoechst Combine Textile Activities

BASF, Bayer and Hoechst, all headquartered in Germany, have announced the consolidation of the
companies textile activities into one newly created operation. According to the agreement, BASF
will combine its textile chemical business with DyStar, the joint venture of Bayer and Hoechst.
Each company will hold an equal share in this yet unnamed company. The newly formed company will
have annual sales of 2 billion marks ($1 billion) and have a work force of approximately 4,700
employees worldwide.This venture will create the world’s largest maker of textile dyes. The company
is scheduled to begin operation April 1, 2000.

December 1999

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