The Results Are In – We’re Glad It’s Over


D
uring 1998, the economy continued to show resilience — the Dow Jones Industrial Average
gained 16.1 percent, and the S&P 500 advanced 26.7 percent. However, the Russell 2000 declined
3.5 percent and on average, each stock in the Bank of America Stock Watch lost 25.5 percent of its
value.

Among the factors contributing to this poor performance were the lingering Asian crisis,
leading to a surge in cheap imports; cautious buying from retailers with requests for shipping
delays; lower mill operating rates as longer holiday downtime is scheduled to prevent excessive
year-end inventory; flat to declining industry pricing reflecting import pressure; and unseasonably
warm weather that dampened the demand for fleece, outerwear and blankets.


In Textile News

On December 30, Worldtex completed its previously announced acquisition of the Lexington, S.C.,
narrow-elastic fabric manufacturing facility of Fruit of the Loom. Worldtex signed a long-term
supply agreement in connection with the purchase. According to a Fruit of the Loom spokesman, the
sale price was between $10 and 15 million.

Elsewhere, a unit of JPS Textile Group agreed to sell its home furnishings business to Belding
Hausman for $11.4 million.

Consolidation in the carpet industry continues with two recent transactions. On December 23,
Mohawk Industries announced an agreement to acquire Durkan Patterned Carpets, a leading supplier of
commercial carpet to the hospitality market. Durkan has annual sales of roughly $110 million.

On January 11, The Dixie Group completed its acquisition of the assets of Multitex
Corporation of America, a carpet and carpet yarn producer with annual sales of $85 million. The
purchase price was $30 million in cash plus certain future payments linked to revenue growth. Dixie
expects $600 million in floorcovering sales in 1999.



Information contained herein is based upon sources believed reliable, but is not guaranteed as
to accuracy or completeness. This report is not to be construed as an offer to buy or sell
security. Certain prices listed herein are indicaton quotes only and may not necessarily reflect
prices at which transactions were executed.


February 1999

Kretzer Steps Down As President And CEO Of Unifi

William T. Kretzer, president and CEO of Unifi Inc., Greensboro, N.C., resigned and left the
company at the first of this month.Kretzer, who had been with Unifi since its founding in 1971 and
is well-respected in the industry, surprised many with his announcement. He was named president and
CEO in 1986.In an interview with ATI, G. Allen Mebane, chairman and founder of Unifi, made it clear
that Kretzer left of his own accord and said people have been trying to find hidden meaning in the
suddenness of the departure. Mebane has assumed Kretzers role as chief executive officer.Bill
stepped down, Mebane said. He just decided he wanted a change in career path. We will reorganize
the people we have here, and we will continue to do business just like we always have.Mebane had
nothing but praise for Kretzer, calling him a good friend, as well as one of the strengths and
drivers of the companys growth.Brian R. Parke will become Unifis new president and chief operating
officer. Parke was managing director of Unifis manufacturing operation in Letterkenny,
Ireland.Kretzer isnt the only head of a leading textile company to step down recently. Three months
ago, Pat Danahy, CEO of Cone Mills, also headquartered in Greensboro, retired suddenly. Mebane
insists there is no parallel between the two.Unifi has suffered some losses as of late at the hands
of cheaper imports from Asia. The companys stock price has fallen nearly 50 percent since the
beginning of 1998 and now hovers around the $20 mark. According to Mebane, Unifi will still post an
after-tax profit for 1998.Recently, however, the company reported a second-quarter loss compared to
the same period last year. Net sales and gross margin were $319 million and 15.8 percent
respectively, compared $343 million and 17.2 percent in 1998. Net income declined 31.9 percent to
$22.5 million.Unifi Inc. manufactures textured polyester and nylon yarns, covered yarn and
partially oriented yarn (P.O.Y.). The company has 19 manufacturing sites, including its texturing
and P.O.Y. plant in Ireland.
For more on Unifis operation, see Tops In Textured Yarn in this issue.

February 1999

Vision Textile Creates Designs With Computers

Designers, merchandisers, fabric and apparel companies no longer have to wait for a sample to be
created on the loom to see the right pattern and color. By working with Vision Textile Express
(VTE), a textile service studio based in New York City, a companys designers can apply practical
textile know-how working with computers in every area of design development and coloration, from
creating a concept all the way through manufacturing.VTE hopes to solve the problem textile
companies run into with color matching when a fabric design is trusted to a faraway mill for
weaving, dyeing, printing or finishing. Even sending the most detailed directions for the color of
each thread might not guarantee a perfect match.VTE uses Epson Stylus Color 3000 ink-jet printers
to help deliver jobs for textile design, home furnishing, apparel design or surface design, for
even the smallest mini-body recoloring or pattern manipulations.VTE also relies on its sister
company Info Designs Vision System CAD/CAM software, which includes the modular Windows 95/98/NT
Fashion Studio Suite, to develop a highly reliable color management and design system for
customers, including top fashion designers like Calvin Klein and Isaac Mizrahi, merchandisers like
Macys and Victorias Secret, and fabric companies like Dundee Mills.The Epson printer is used as a
comping device at several phases of the VTE creative process, said Jacques Foussard, vice president
of VTE.As our designers mix colors to create a personal palette or literally weave fabric on the
computer screen, we continually study color comps produced from the printer to help us develop the
actual concept and design, he added.Vision System creates and produces a variety of weave types,
while designing stripes, dobbies, plaids and colorways or simulating two- or three-ply yarns, mixed
yarns, slubs, nubs and virtually any fabric texture.The combination of our Vision System CAD/CAM
software from Info Design with Epsons printer to present design layouts dramatically helps us
translate our color ideas and simulation techniques to show customers the true quality of designs,
Foussard said.

February 1999

Cone Shows Lower Earnings Announces Restructuring

Cone Mills Corp., Greensboro, N.C., announced that fourth quarter 1998 results will be lower than
analysts expectations as a result of reduced shipments of denim and yarn-dyed sportswear fabrics
and costs associated with a restructuring program.Slower than planned shipments were the result of
weaker retail sales associated with unseasonably warm weather and shifts from basic to
fashion-styled jeans, the company said.John L. Bakane, president and CEO, also announced a
comprehensive restructuring program to accelerate the earnings recovery of the company. Elements of
the program include: streamlining the product offering of the companys sportswear division,
including the closing of the Salisbury plant, which produces yarn-dyed shirting fabrics;
reorganizing and downsizing the corporate administrative staff with a mid-first-quarter 1999 target
implementation date; and reorganizing the apparel products group sales and administrative
organizations in order to reduce costs and more effectively service the changing global
marketplace.

February 1999

GTMA Announces Change In Meeting Location

The Georgia Textile Manufacturers Association (GTMA) recently announced a change in the location of
its next annual meeting.The 1999 meeting that was previously planned for Rancho Mirage, Calif.,
will now be held at The Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead in Atlanta. The dates for the meeting remain the
same, May 5-9.GTMA President G.L. Roy Bowen III said that the decision was made to move the meeting
because of the organizations sensitivity to less favorable business conditions within broad sectors
of the industry and GTMAs desire to increase attendance at the annual meetings. Meeting details,
including registration information, were mailed out earlier this month.GTMAs 100th Anniversary
meeting will be held at The Cloister, Sea Island, Ga., from May 6-10, 2000; the annual meeting in
2001 will be held in coastal Georgia or South Carolina; in 2002 will be held at The Ritz-Carlton,
Rancho Mirage; and in 2003 will be held at The Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead.

February 1999

DyStar Continues Commitment In Asia

DyStar, Germany, is continuing to invest at its site in Cilegon, Indonesia. The companys management
has announced that DyStar will be embarking on plans to expand its reactive dyes facility.According
to the company, the aim is to double production capacity at the Cilegon site from 3,000 tons p.a.
to 6,000 tons p.a. Start-up is scheduled for the year 2000.DyStar has two production sites in
Indonesia Cilegon and DyStar Polkrik. According to Dr. Elmar Stachels, DyStars general manager,
they are the cornerstone for the companys business activities in Asia.In the present situation, it
is apparent how important it is to have an international manufacturing base. Our facilities in Asia
enable us to use local competitive advantages and meet demand for dyes for cotton and polyester,
the two most important types of fiber in Asia and beyond.

February 1999

Virkler Reaches Distribution Agreement With Mardupol

The Virkler Co., Charlotte, N.C., has reached an historic agreement with Productos Quimicos
Mardupol S.A. de C.V., Mexico City.Under the terms of the agreement, Mar-dupol will distribute
Virklers entire wet processing line, with emphasis on specialized laundry chemicals for garment
processing, and dyeing and finishing chemistry for the denim, hosiery and piece dyeing industries.
Mardupol, which has represented DuPont for more than 50 years, is one of Mexicos oldest and largest
chemical distributors with facilities in 14 cities serving all the major textile markets in
Mexico.Virkler products are now in stock at Mardupols Torreon, Leon, Mexico City and Puebla
facilities and are available for immediate delivery, according to the company.According to Howard
Virkler, president of The Virkler Co., these central locations will enable Mardupol to deliver
Virkler products to all major markets within 48 hours and most deliveries will be made in less than
24 hours.The Virkler Co., under Drayton Virklers leadership, will be responsible for the sales and
technical support backed up by Virklers extensive laboratories and worldwide technical service
staff.According to Ing. Carlos Obert, director of Technical Sales for Mardupol, his company will
support Virkler in sales and service and provide the fastest possible delivery to customers.
Mardupol will also be responsible for billing and collection.

February 1999

World39 S Largest Carpet Shear Demonstrated

The largest new carpet shearing machine ever manufactured was demonstrated to customers in the
United Kingdom last month at the Huddersfield Factory of Sellers Engineers Ltd.

The five-head, 5-meter-wide machine is the latest of in Sellers Horizon range of machines.
According to the company, the new machine is able to run up to a maximum of 200 feet per minute.

The machine is fully automatic, with a computer system operated through a simple,
touch-sensitive display, the company says.

January 1999

Lion Apparel Kicks Off Second Century Of Progress

Lion Apparel, Dayton, Ohio, recently celebrated its 100th anniversary, serving as one of the
world’s largest maker of firefighter protective gear and a significant manufacturer of commercial
and government uniforms.

Lion was founded in 1898 by William Lapedes, who used a wagon pulled by two retired fire
horses to make deliveries and call on customers in Dayton and communities to the north.

Today, the company sells fire gear to both domestic and international fire department
customers. Its commercial uniform customers include large businesses and government agencies,
pilots and cargo handlers at major airlines and customer-contact employees from a host of
retail-oriented service companies.

“Reaching the centennial milestone testifies to Lion’s culture and our ability to continually
adapt and innovate in response to business needs,” said Richard Lapedes, president of Lion and
grandson of William Lapedes.

January 1999

ITMA Preview Innovative Wet Processing Solutions

ITMA ’99 PreviewBy Peter J. Hauser, Ph.D. 

Innovative Wet Processing SolutionsThe dyeing and finishing sector turns to the latest technology to reduce costs and increase productivity. ITMA 99 promises to be another significant event for companies involved with textile wet processing. ATI spoke with several machinery manufacturers to get an overview of what to expect in Paris this summer. In general, all manufacturers are concerned with lowering costs by improving productivity. These productivity improvements are coming from increased use of automated controls and monitoring of process parameters. Of secondary concern, but still important, is reducing water consumption and energy use.Babcock, Charlotte, N.C., plans to introduce improved tenter frames with newly designed airflows, modular electronics and automated controls. New technology will be seen in high-speed washers for knits and woven fabrics. An updated control system with graphical displays will allow monitoring of chemical usage. A closed-loop control system will be available to control process temperatures and dye and chemical dosing rates.Benninger, Spartanburg, S.C., will offer enhancements to its line of slashing equipment. Pre-wetting warp yarns prior to slashing is being emphasized. This wet-on-wet application allows not only for lower chemicals costs, but also provides sized yarns with better weaving performance. Touch-screen controls are being added to give a more operator-friendly process.Gaston County Dyeing Machine Company, Stanley, N.C., will emphasize a total systems approach to wet processing. Coordinating processes allows for increased productivity while reducing water use. Control automation, rather than just being offered as an option, is becoming standard on new dyeing machines. A new material handling aspect of package dyeing will also be shown.Jemco, Icard, N.C., bleach ranges have been refined to provide even further reductions in creases and rope marks. This allows fabrics with finer yarns and high torque to be processed successfully. In addition, Jemco and Clariant will present a combination of equipment and chemistry that provides a truly environmentally friendly bleaching system.The effluent from this non-silicate system will be lower in BOD (biological oxygen demand) and COD (chemical oxygen demand) and will not contain any sulfur, phosphorous, nitrogen or alkylphenol exthoxylates. Energy conservation is stressed (70 percent of the energy input is recovered and reused). Low water use is also emphasized, water consumption as low as 1 liter per kilogram of fabric is routinely achieved. The man-machine-interface (MMI) is addressed with personal computers in combination with PLCs (programmable logic controllers) that automatically monitor the important parameters of the bleaching process, such as alkalinity and peroxide concentration. Jemco will also show, for the first time, a completely closed-loop control system for Kier bleaching.Kusters, Spartanburg, S.C., will introduce two new processes for the carpet industry. FiberKleen is a yarn treatment for spun yarns that produces carpet yarns with greatly enhanced performance properties. The QuickChange Fluidyer is an improved carpet dye pad with greater side-center-side shade control and rapid-color-change capability. The QuickChange Fluidyer makes it possible to have complete color changes in inches rather than in feet, greatly reducing waste and improving productivity.Both FiberKleen and the QuickChange Fluidyer are now being offered to selected customers, but will be made available to the worldwide textile industry at ITMA.Roaches International, England, in keeping with the general industry trend, will offer laboratory dyeing equipment with lower liquor-to-fabric ratios and with more automated controls.Thies sees a strong demand for shorter cycle times in piece dyeing. One aspect of this desire is the need for charge tanks for dyeing machines. These are tanks where the next dyebath is being prepared and brought to temperature while the current dye lot is being finished, saving a significant amount of time on each dye cycle. Another requirement of shorter dye cycles is automated drug rooms. Dispensing of dyes and chemicals can be controlled by the computerized dyehouse process control system, eliminating some sources of error as well as reducing process time. Thies will also show its AirStream dyeing machine, especially deigned for dyeing Tencel® fabrics.Then GmbH, Germany, will present a new control philosophy called a local operating network (LON). With LON, the individual components of the dyeing machine are provided with some intelligence of their own.For example, a valve will keep track of the number of times it opens and closes and will notify the operator when maintenance or replacement is necessary. This type of control system allows for more efficient processes and higher overall level of productivity. Then also will show further refinements in its AirFlow dyeing machine, as well as automated dye and chemical dispensing systems.Tubetex will show five new machines for processing tubular and open-width knit goods. These machines will focus on providing tighter specifications for shrinkage and yield, in addition to lowering operating costs. Chemical application and mechanical shrinkage controls are included. Editors Note: This months wet-processing ITMA Preview is a brief overview of some of the new technology visitors can expect to see. A complete list and description of dying, printing and finishing vendors will be included in the April issue of ATI.Peter Hauser is an associate professor of textile chemistry at North Carolina State University. He joined the faculty in 1997 after 23 years in the industry with Milliken Research Corp., Burlington Industries and The Virkler Company. Hauser received his bachelors degree and doctorate in Chemistry from N.C. State, and his research focuses on high-performance chemical finishes for enhanced value textiles, indigo dyeing and denim garment wet processing, new textile processes to reduce costs, and energy use and pollution associated with wet processing. Professor Hauser holds several patents. He can be reached at (919) 513-1899 or by e-mail at peter_hauser@ncsu.edu.January 1999

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